Cultural studies: dress and society Books

Book SynopsisHair: Styling, Culture and Fashion explores the social importance of hair, wherever it grows, explaining the cultural significance of hair and hairiness, and presenting a new critical engagement with hair and its stories, histories, performances and rituals. From heads, legs and underarms, to wigs and beards, and everything in between, the presentation, manipulation and daily experience of human hair plays a central and dynamic role within fashion, self-expression and the creation of social identity. The book's diverse range of cross-cultural essays encompasses the study of hair in fashion, film, art, history, literature, performance and consumer culture. Offering an accessible mix of visual analysis, cultural commentary and critical theory, Hair: Styling, Culture and Fashion will appeal to all those interested in the presentation and analysis of cultural identity and the body.Trade ReviewThis work provides an intriguing, interdisciplinary, multifaceted kaleidoscope focused on the universality of hair and its relationship to culture. These studies cover a wide spectrum, such as Hundu ritual tonsuring, African combing, salon styling, Islamic shaving, and aristocratic wigging. Overall, they provide a new lens for understanding the human condition and identity, both the exotic and personal. B. B. Chico, CHOICE MagazineTable of ContentsAcknowledgments Foreword, Caroline Cox Author's Biographies 1. Introduction: Thinking About Hair, Geraldine Biddle-Perry And Sarah Cheang Part One: Histories of Hair On the Head, Face and Body 2. Fashionable Hair In The Eighteenth Century: Theatricality and Display, Louisa Cross, 3. Roots: Hair and Race, Sarah Cheang 4. Revealing and Concealing: Notes and Observations on Eroticism and Female Pubic Hair, Jack Sargeant 5. From Style to Place: The Emergence Of The Hair Salon in the Twentieth Century, Kim Smith 6. The Big Shave: Fashions In Modern Male Facial Hair, Dene October Part Two: Hair & Identity 7. Hair And Male (Homo) Sexuality: Up Top And Down Below, Shaun Cole 8. Hair, Gender And Looking, Geraldine Biddle-Perry 9. Men's Facial Hair in Islam: A Matter of Interpretation, Faegheh Shirazi 10. Resounding Power Of The Afro Comb, Carol Tulloch 11. Concerning Blondeness: Gender, Ethnicity, Spectacle And Footballers' Waves, Pamela Church-Gibson 12. Hair, devotion and trade in India, Eiluned Edwards Part Three: Hair in Representation: Film, Art, Fashion, Literature & Performance 13. Hairpieces: Hair, Identity and Memory in the Work of Mona Hatoum, Leila McKellar 14. Hair Without a Head: Disembodiment and The Uncanny, Janice Miller 15. Hair and Fashioned Femininity in Two Nineteenth-Century Novels, Royce Mahawatte. 16. Hair control: The Feminine 'Disciplined Head', Thom Hecht 17. Hair-'Dressing' In Desperate Housewives: Narration, Characterisation, And The Pleasures Of Reading Hair, Rachel Velody 18. Hair Styling In The Fashion Magazine: Nova In The 1970s, Alice Beard Conclusion 19. Conclusion: Hair and Human Identity, Sarah Cheang and Geraldine Biddle-Perry End Notes Index

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Book SynopsisCompetitive ballroom is much more than a style of dance. Rather, it is a continually evolving and increasingly global social and cultural arena: of fashion, performance, art, sport, gender, and more. Ballroom explores the intersection of dance cultures, dress, and the body. Presenting the author's experiences at an international range of dance events from Europe, the US and UK, as well as featuring the views of individual dancers, the book shows how dancing influences mind and body alike. For students of anthropology, dance, cultural, and performance studies, Ballroom provides an ethnographic picture of how dancers and others live their lives both on and off the dance floor.Trade ReviewBallroom is a deeply layered and compelling account of competitive ballroom dance, combining Jonathan Marion's insightful roles as ethnographer, photographer, and accomplished ballroom dancer. The book should be read by everyone curious about the fundamental nature of dance in human society, no matter what their particular dance passion may be. Anyone interested in the world of competitive ballroom dance will find Ballroom an invaluable resource. Anya Peterson Royce, Indiana University With the ethnographic authority of a ballroom dancer, Jonathan Marion takes us to the world of competitions in this exciting dancesport. Ballroom is an absorbing book. It reveals how this dance form indexes broader issues of performance and costume as well as gender, transnationality and the visual. Helena Wulff, Stockholm University A welcome addition to a growing body of literature about competitive and social dance forms ... not only contributes to our understanding of ballroom dance but also furthers and suggests the continuing promise of dance research carried out through interdisciplinary methodologies. American EthnologistTable of ContentsIntroduction Part 1: Setting the Stage Chapter 1: What is Competitive Ballroom Dance? Chapter 2: A Brief History of Ballroom Chapter 3: Judging Ballroom Dance Part 2: Performing Dancesport Chapter 4: Ballroom as Spectacle Chapter 5: Ballroom as Art Chapter 6: Ballroom as Sport Part 3: Ballroom Competitions as Events Chapter 7: Competitions as Festival and Celebration Chapter 8: Competitions as Ritual Part 4: Costs, Consequences, and Outcomes Chapter 9: Costumes and Conduct Chapter 10: Performing Gender Chapter 11: Living the Dancesport Life Conclusion

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Book SynopsisJapanese Fashion examines the entire sweep of Japanese clothing history, from the sophisticated fashion systems of late-Edo period kimonos to the present day, providing possible theories of how Japan made this fashion journey and linking current theories of fashion to the Japanese example. The book is unique in that it provides the first full history of the last 200 years of Japanese clothing. It is also the first book to include Asian fashion as part of global fashion as well as fashion theory. It adds a hitherto absent continuity to the understanding of historical and current fashion in Japan, and is pioneering in offering possible theories to account for that entire history. By providing an analysis of how that entire history changes our understanding of the way fashion works, this book will be an essential text for all students of fashion and design.Trade ReviewSlade sets himself very ambitious targets in Japanese Fashion: A Cultural History, an analytical survey of a whole clothing culture, which he successfully meets. Dr. Slade is an imaginative historian who has the ability to synthesize a wide range of sources, ranging from the offical record to the ephemeral and teh vernacular. Peter McNeil, Fashion Theory: Volume 14, Issue 4 This book is much more than just about fashion - it includes discussions of comparatives, political thought, mass-consumerism, the cloth industry and industrialization, roles of department stores, fashion magazines, wood-block prints, -art, education, schooling, sport,importance of The Rokumeikan (new large westernized building for the elite), and what Slade calls samuraization of all classes. Long, dense read, but really intriguing. Ann WrightTable of Contents1. Introduction: Modernity, Fashion and Japan Modernity and Modernity in Clothing Global Fashion and National Cultures Japan 2. Japanese Clothes 1800-2000 Clothing in the Edo Period Nakedness and Covering It Decency Foundation Choices: Yoga and Nihonga Materials and Materialism 'Westernisation' and Japanese Fashion Textile Industrialisation The Democratisation of Consumption World War II The Rise of Designers Today's Subcultures 3. Japanese Menswear: Masculinity and Sartorial Statecraft Uniforms and the State: The Emperor's New Clothes Suits: Modern and Classic Masculinity The Suit in Europe and America The Growing Civilised Centre The Japanese Suit The Rokumeikan Modern Boys Possible Masculinities post 2000 4. Japanese Womenswear: Femininity and Modernity Traditional Notions of Sartorial Womanhood Meiji Girl Students and School Uniforms Taisho Decadence and the Moga Sportswear, Swimwear & Movement Cosmetics and Substance Hairstyles: The First Experiments Kimono Reform and Traditional Identity Feminine Formality and Time 1960s Counter Culture in Japan Japanese Femininity Today 5. Conclusions: Theories of Japanese Fashion The Economics of Aesthetics A Set of Reoccurring Questions Functional Explanations Fashion as the Search for Meaning and/or Identity Fashion and the Struggle for Status The Economics of Fashion Fashion as Communication Dynamic Explanations of Fashion Fashion as Diffusion Cycles of Fashion Fashion as Erotic Fashion and the Zeitgeist Fashion as Aesthetics Acknowledgements Bibliography

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Book SynopsisThe interrelationship between fashion and celebrity is now a salient and pervasive feature of the media world. This accessible text presents the first in-depth study of the phenomenon, assessing the degree to which celebrity culture has reshaped the fashion system. Fashion and Celebrity Culture critically examines the history of this relationship from its growth in the 19th century to its mutation during the twentieth century to the dramatic changes that have befallen it in the last two decades. It addresses the fashion-celebrity nexus as it plays itself out across mainstream cinema, television and music and in the celebrity status of a range of designers, models and artists. It explores the strategies that have enabled visual culture to recast itself in the new climate of celebrity obsession, popular culture and the art world to respond adaptively to its insistent pressures. With its engaging analysis and case studies from Lillian Gish to Louis Vuitton to Lady Gaga, Fashion and Celebrity Culture is of major interest to students of fashion, media studies, film, television studies and popular culture, and anyone with an interest in this global phenomenon.Trade ReviewFashion and Celebrity Culture explores the relationship between fashion and style that underpins contemporary celebrity culture. By tracing particular contemporary stylistic shifts as they have intersected with media technologies - photography, cinema, magazines and music - Pamela Church Gibson engages with broad social and cultural transformations in the field of popular culture. Focusing on fashion and its representation, Church Gibson offers a useful point of entry for understanding the processes and meanings that characterize celebrity culture today. * Vicki Karaminas, Associate Professor and Associate Head of the School of Design, University of Technology, Sydney, Australia *Pamela Church Gibson shows that while cinema has, from the early twentieth century forward, influenced fashion trends and often determined who would become a star, the intersection of celebrity, fashion, and high art that has developed in the last twenty years requires us to look "sideways" across the film-media-art-fashion-culture landscape...This is a very smart book in all senses. * Cynthia Baron, Associate Professor in the Department of Theatre and Film, Affiliated Faculty in the American Studies Program, Bowling Green State University, U.S. *Table of Contents1 Introduction 2 Fashion and Celebrity Culture, Past and Present PART I: FASHION & FILM 3 Film Stars as Fashion Icons 4 Hollywood Celebrity Cover Girls 5 ‘Fashion Films': from Prêt-a-porter to A Single Man 6 Sex and The City: From Small Screen to Big Screen PART II: FASHION MEDIA & CULTURE 8 Fashion on Television: So Many Celebrities, So Little Fashion? 7 The Changing Face(s) of the Fashion Magazine and the New Media Landscape 9 Fashion, Music and Celebrity 11 Artists, Celebrity and Fashion: From Wilde and Warhol to Taylor-Wood PART III: FASHION GONE GLOBAL 10 Designers and Models become Brands 12 Other Continents, Other Celebrities, Other Fashions 13 Conclusion: The Future of Celebrity-Driven Fashion Notes References Index

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Book SynopsisThe relationship between popular music and fashion has been a culturally significant one since the 1950s, and this book explores how music and musicians play a key role in the shaping of identity, taste and consumption. Using a range of historical and contemporary examples, this book uncovers the way in which fashion and music have worked to shape contemporary attitudes to bodies and identities.Focusing on performers as much as fans, on the mainstream as much as the underground, Fashion and Music provides a lens through which to examine themes of gender, sexuality, ageing and youth, ethnicity, body image, consumer culture, fandom and postmodernity.Trade ReviewThis book is not only entertaining, but also informative. Miller presents a current perspective on various aspects of popular music in one easy to read book, which I plan to use in the classroom. * Jessica Strubel, School of Merchandising and Hospitality Management, University of North Texas *Table of ContentsIntroduction: Fashion, Identity and Music1. Dressing Fans: Music, Clothes and Consumption 2. Gwen Loves Vivienne: Branding, Fashion and Music 3. Witchy Women: Fashioning the Womanly Body of the Female Singer-Songwriter4. White Suited Men: Style and the Marketing of the Boyband 5. Dressing your Age: Fashioning the Ageing Body of Performers and Fans 6. Styling, Race and Nation 7. Spectacle and Sexuality: Clothes, Concerts and the CarnivalesqueConclusion: Image, MusicIndex

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Book SynopsisIn Victorian England, women's accessories were always much more than incidental finishing touches to their elaborate dress. Accessories helped women to fashion their identities.Victorian Fashion Accessories explores how women's use of gloves, parasols, fans and vanity sets revealed their class, gender and colonial aspirations. The colour and fit of a pair of gloves could help a middle-class woman indicate her class aspirations.The sun filtering through a rose-colored parasol would provide a woman of a certain age with the glow of youth. The use of a fan was a socially acceptable means of attracting interest and flirting.Even the choice of vanity set on a woman's bedroom dresser reflected her complicity with colonial expansion. By paying attention to the particular details of women's accessories we discover the beliefs embedded in these artefacts and enhance our understanding of the culture at large. Beaujot's engaging prose illuminates the complex identities of the women who used accessories in the Victorian culture that created and consumed them. Victorian Fashion Accessories is essential reading for students and scholars of, history, gender studies, cultural studies, material culture and fashion studies, as well as anyone interested in the history of dress.Trade ReviewIn addition to explaining the history of how these objects were manufactured and sold, Beaujot offers interesting insights into middle class Victorian social customs, prejudices, hopes and fears. This book will appeal both to academics, especially as an introductory text, and to anyone interested in the Victorian period. * TRC *Table of ContentsIntroduction 1. The Glove and the Making of Middle-Class Womanhood 2. The Language of the Fan: Pushing the Boundaries of Middle-Class Womanhood 3. Underneath the Parasol: Umbrellas as Symbols of Imperialism, Race, Youth and Flirtation 4. The Celluloid Vanity Set and the Search for Authenticity Conclusion Notes Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisIn Victorian England, women's accessories were always much more than incidental finishing touches to their elaborate dress. Accessories helped women to fashion their identities.Victorian Fashion Accessories explores how women's use of gloves, parasols, fans and vanity sets revealed their class, gender and colonial aspirations. The colour and fit of a pair of gloves could help a middle-class woman indicate her class aspirations.The sun filtering through a rose-colored parasol would provide a woman of a certain age with the glow of youth. The use of a fan was a socially acceptable means of attracting interest and flirting.Even the choice of vanity set on a woman's bedroom dresser reflected her complicity with colonial expansion. By paying attention to the particular details of women's accessories we discover the beliefs embedded in these artefacts and enhance our understanding of the culture at large. Beaujot's engaging prose illuminates the complex identities of the women who used accessories in the Victorian culture that created and consumed them. Victorian Fashion Accessories is essential reading for students and scholars of, history, gender studies, cultural studies, material culture and fashion studies, as well as anyone interested in the history of dress.Table of ContentsIntroduction 1. The Glove and the Making of Middle-Class Womanhood 2. The Language of the Fan: Pushing the Boundaries of Middle-Class Womanhood 3. Underneath the Parasol: Umbrellas as Symbols of Imperialism, Race, Youth and Flirtation 4. The Celluloid Vanity Set and the Search for Authenticity Conclusion Notes Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisFashion in India is distinctly unique, in its aesthetics, systems, designers and influences. Indian Fashion is the first study of its kind to examine the social, political, global and local elements that give shape to this multifaceted center. Spanning India’s long historical contribution to global fashion to the emergence of today’s vibrant local fashion scene, Sandhu provides a comprehensive overview of the Indian fashion world. From elite high-end to street style of the masses, the book explores the complex realities of Indian dress through key issues such as identity, class, youth and media. This ground-breaking book does not simply apply western fashion theory to an Indian context, but allows for a holistic understanding of how fashion is created, worn, displayed and viewed in India. Accessibly written, Indian Fashion will be a fantastic resource for students of fashion, cultural studies and anthropology.Trade Review[This] is an excellent entry-level book to the subject. * Costume *At its heart, Indian Fashion’s narrative emphasizes the role of dress in the promotion of national identity, culture and tradition, and also in the embodiment of personal identity, resistance and modernity. In doing so, it establishes India as a unique global powerhouse, where luxury, couture, craft and casual are conspicuously consumed, mixed and matched to articulate a distinctly modern – yet also distinctly Indian – style identity. * Fashion, Society & Popular Culture *Table of ContentsChapter 1: Introduction: Indian Fashion Chapter 2: A Brief History of Dress, Difference and Fashion Change in India Chapter 3: Contemporary Fashion Practice in Urban India Chapter 4: Reel to Real Life: Re-Fashioning India from Bollywood to Street Chapter 5: Desi-Chic: The Image and Ideals of Fashion in Indian Magazines Chapter 6: Darzi to "Designer": Crafting Couture and High-Fashion for India Chapter 7: Conclusion: "Wrapping it Up" Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisFor at least two centuries, fashion and art have maintained a competitive love-hate relationship. Both fashion and art construct imaginary worlds, and use a language of style to invigorate beliefs, perceptions and ideas. Until now the crossovers of fashion and art have received only scattered treatment and suffered from a dearth of theorization. As an attempt to theorize the area, this collection of new and updated essays is the most well-rounded and authoritative to date. Some of the world's foremost scholars in the field are assembled here to explore the art-fashion nexus in numerous ways: from aesthetics and performance to masquerade and media. Original and inspiring, this book will not only secure ‘art-fashion' as a discrete area of study, but also suggest new critical pathways for exploring their continuing cross-pollination. Fashion and Art is essential reading for students and scholars of fashion, art history and theory, cultural studies and related fields.Trade ReviewFinally a book on the complex relationship between art and fashion adopts a different approach. Instead of the usual attempts to decide where the boundary lines might be drawn , this anthology examines the areas where art and fashion meet. These essays are not only vital for scholars and students within both disciplines - for anyone and everyone, this is a highly enjoyable book. * Pamela Church Gibson, Reader in Cultural and Historical Studies, London College of Fashion, University of the Arts, London *A book that both traces, and participates in, the decay of the idea that Fashion is the superficial Other of Art. Between the covers of this book lies all the evidence one might need about the sustained collaboration between modernist artists and fashion designers. Through a wealth of historical detail and conceptual sophistication this book tells a fascinating story whose relevance will lie far beyond Fashion Studies. * Michael Carter *There have been previous books written on Fashion and Art, but none is of this standard. In its reach and sophistication, this book is a stand-alone in its field. For many years, fashion and art have been points of discussion and debate, and the subject of isolated disciplinary studies. Geczy and Karaminas and the key authors assembled here have done us a great service in elevating this topic to an area of serious interdisciplinary study, giving it coherence and circumscription. Fashion and Art is a landmark book for whose appearance couldn't be more timely. * Joseph H. Hancock II. Drexel University, Philadelphia. *A much awaited and exciting collection... bringing together some of the most prominent scholars and curators working within fashion (studies) and art (history), Fashion and Art boldly problematises the conflicting, yet symbiotic relations between art and fashion. * Louise Wallenberg, Director, Centre for Fashion Studies at Stockholm University, Sweden *Using thickly described and critically analyzed case materials, the authors in this edited volume break new ground in the ongoing debate regarding fashion and art. From euromodernities to contemporary, global "fashionscapes," this volume sheds refreshing light on the ambiguities, anxieties, and aesthetic pleasures associated with the fashion-art relationship. * Susan B. Kaiser, Chair of the Division of Textiles and Clothing at the University of California, Davis *Table of ContentsIntroduction: Adam Geczy and Vicki Karaminas 1. Fashion: Valerie Steele, The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, USA 2. Art: Nancy Troy, Stanford University, USA 3. Aesthetics: Llewellyn Negrin, University of Tasmania, Australia 4. Modernity: Adam Geczy, Sydney College of the Arts, Australia 5. Conceptual: Hazel Clark, Parsons the New School of Design, USA 6. Body: Joanne Eicher, University of Minnesota, USA 7. Beauty: Morag Martin, State University of New York, USA 8. Boundaries: Diana Crane, University of Pennsylvania, USA 9. Authenticity: Efrat Tseëlon, Leeds University, UK 10. Performance: Herbert Blau, University of Washington, USA 11. Dressing up: Mary Gluck, Brown University, USA 12. Clothing: Margaret Maynard, University of Queensland, Australia 13. Patronage: Nicky Ryan, University of the Arts, London, UK 14. Painting: Aileen Ribeiro, University of London, UK 15. Image: Vicki Karaminas, University of Technology, Sydney, Australia 16. Exhibition: Alistair O'Neil, Central St Martins, London, UK 17. Curatorial: Barbara Heinemann, Goldstein Museum of Design, University of Minnesota, USA Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisIn what ways do changing notions of social class correspond with key developments in the history of fashion? Focusing on examples ranging from 18th-century Britain to aspects of the global fashion industry in the early 21st century, Fashion and Class examines the meaning and evolution of the term ‘class’, from its Marxist origins to modern day interpretations. Did industrialisation, technological change and developments in fashion retailing bring about a degree of ‘class levelling’ or in fact intensify class antagonism? And to what extent does modern mass consumption and cheap labour revive some of the ethical issues faced in 19th-century British textile factories? Exploring a variety of case studies that examine the changing relationships between fashion and class in different historical contexts, from the French revolutionaries of the 1780-90s through to the changing relationships between couture, designer and high-street fashion in the mid-20th century and onwards, Fashion and Class is essential reading for those wishing to understand the ways in which the fashion system is closely connected with ideas of class.Trade ReviewWorth (Arts Univ. Bournemouth, UK) argues that fashion has been intertwined with the developing notion of class and class consciousness, resulting from changing political, social, technological, and cultural events in Britain over the past 250 years … She provides an important, thought-provoking study. Summing Up: Recommended. All levels. * CHOICE *Rachel Worth’s wonderfully packed study of fashion and its intersections with social history tells us as much about the democratization of society as about developments in the fashion industry … This thought-provoking and timely book is relevant to every single one of us. * Times Literary Supplement *Many fascinating case studies [help] make this account intensely readable ... A useful addition to the bookshelf of any student even remotely interested in society, literature, and clothing. * The Journal of Dress History *Fashion and Class is a timely addressing of the relationship between dress, fabric and social identity. In an era when the politics of wealth, labour and mobility are so contested it is ever more pressing for historians to seek context and precedence in the visual and material culture of the past. Rachel Worth is an authoritative guide to a complex terrain. * Christopher Breward, National Galleries of Scotland *An important book … Worth discusses the fundamental dress and social history issues of class, fashion and democracy across nearly 250 years in order to question long-held dress history assumptions … Terrific. * Lou Taylor, University of Brighton, UK *Drawing on a rich and diverse range of research, Worth constructs an intelligent and engaging discussion about the ways fashion intersects with class identities. Her book sheds light on the ways post-18th century dress and textiles have been entwined with expressions and experiences of class, and considers how these connections have altered over time. * Rebecca Arnold, Courtauld Institute of Art, UK *This provocative book clearly demonstrates how one's perception of their place in society is affected by fashion and the choices available. It should stimulate healthy discussions of equality, social justice and upward mobility within a fashion context. * Jean L. Druesedow, Kent State University Museum, USA *Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Acknowledgements Introduction 1 What’s in a Name? The Language of Class in Relation to Fashion and Fabrics 2 The Politics of Fashion 3 Fabric of Society: Technological Change and Fashion 4 From North to South: Class Identity and Dress in the English Novel, 1820-60 5 Fashion, Class and Democratization 6 Retailing Revolution: Marks & Spencer and the Democratization of Fashion 7 Design and Class Conclusion Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisTaking cultural theorist Michel de Certeau’s notion of ‘the everyday’ as a critical starting point, this book considers how fashion shapes and is shaped by everyday life. Looking historically for the imprint of fashion within everyday routines such as going to work or shopping, or in leisure activities like dancing, the book identifies the ‘fashion system of the ordinary’, in which clothing has a distinct role in the making of self and identity. Exploring the period from 1890 to 2010, the study is located in London and New York, cities that emerged as as socially, ethnically and culturally diverse, as well as increasingly fashionable. The book re-focuses fashion discourse away from well-trodden, power-laden dynamics, towards a re-evaluation of time, memory, and above all history, and their relationship to fashion and everyday life. The importance of place and space - and issues of gender, race and social class - provides the broader framework, revealing fashion as both routine and exceptional, and as an increasingly significant part of urban life. By focusing on key themes such as clothing the city, what is worn on the streets, the imagining and performing of multiple identities by dressing up and down, going out, and showing off, Fashion and Everyday Life makes a unique contribution to the literature of fashion studies, fashion history, cultural studies, and beyond.Trade ReviewBefore the rise of Zara and H&M, people of modest means engaged with fashion. But how did they do it and what did it mean? Beautifully written and illustrated, this book provides new and engaging ‘fashion cross-sections’ of two great cities, London and New York. How did Americans become ‘the best dressed’ women in the world? What underpinned the rise of ‘ready-to-wear’ in both London and New York? What role did fashion play in migration and assimilation? How does fashion relate to the everyday and how did it become the very essence of everyday life? Working, walking, shopping, church-going, dancing, wedding, clubbing and blogging – these and a great many other topics are examined in a work of thoughtfulness and imagination. The book sets a new benchmark in the study of dressing as an everyday but also exceptional practice, within and for lives. -- Peter McNeil, University of Technology, Sydney, AustraliaHistorically rigorous, well-written and accessible, Fashion and Everyday Life is an essential text for anyone researching, working, or studying in the field of fashion or dress design and history. Tracing the way in which ordinary people interpreted ‘high’ and ‘low’ trends and fashions to express marginalized identities, the book will inspire practitioners and academic students alike. Bringing together accounts of the complexity of ordinary women’s lives in the urban fashion capitals of London and New York during the twentieth century, this authoritative work explores the creative use of dress across the dividing lines of age, gender, race and social class. -- Juliet Ash, Royal College of Art, London, UKTable of ContentsIntroduction Chapter 1: London and New York: Clothing the City Chapter 2: Street Walking Chapter 3: Dreams to Reality Chapter 4: Dressing Up Chapter 5: Dressing Down Chapter 6: Going Out Chapter 7: Showing Off Notes Bibliography

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Book SynopsisWhat do you use every day that is small and large, worthless and beyond price? It's easily found in the gutter, yet you may never be able to replace it. You are always losing it but it faithfully protects you; sexy and uptight, it is knitted in to your affections or it may give you nightmares. It has led to conflict, fostered and repressed political and religious change and epitomizes the great aesthetic movements. It's Eurocentric, and is found all over the world. On the Button is an inventive and unusual exploration of the cultural history of the button, illustrated with a multiplicity of buttons in black and white and colour. It tells tales of a huge variety of the button's forms and functions, its sometimes uncompromising glamour, its stronghold in fashion and literature, its place in the visual arts, its association with crime and death, its tender call to nostalgia and the sentimental. There have been works addressed to the button collector and general cultural histories. On the Button links the two, revealing why we are so attracted to buttons, and how they punch way above their weight.Trade Review'Nina Edwards knows everything you might want to know about buttons, and much more that you have never imagined. Her book is a tour de force, and full of interesting stories.' - Alison Lurie, novelist and author of 'The Language of Clothes'Table of ContentsIntroduction 1. As a notion 2. Why we collect 3. The Enlightenment button 4. Gentlemen prefer buttons 5. Commerce and cuteness 6. War and grief 7. Culture and creed 8. Sex, love and buttons 9. Arts and crafts 10. Dash my buttons! Glossary Bibliography Websites End notes

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Book SynopsisThroughout its long history, home dressmaking has been a formative experience in the lives of millions of women. In an age of relative affluence and mass production, it is easy to forget that just over a generation ago, young girls from middle- and working-class backgrounds were routinely taught to sew as a practical necessity. However, not only have the skills involved in home dressmaking been overlooked and marginalized due to their association with women and the home, but the impact home dressmaking had on women's lives and broader socioeconomic structures also has been largely ignored. This book is the first serious account of the significance of home dressmaking as a form of European and American material culture. Exploring themes from the last two hundred years to the present, including gender, technology, consumption and visual representation, contributors show how home dressmakers negotiated and experienced developments to meet a wide variety of needs and aspirations. Not merely passive consumers, home dressmakers have been active producers within family economies. They have been individuals with complex agendas expressed through their roles as wives, mothers and workers in their own right and shaped by ideologies of femininity and class.This book represents a vital contribution to women's studies, the history of fashion and dress, design history, material culture, sociology and anthropology.Trade Review'Sewing,as a fixture of production, consumption, femininity, gentility, home, and work, deserves the serious attention of historians and theoreticians ... the most interesting essays reveal how ... women actually served to integrate the home into commercial life ... This series(dress,body culture) attempts to move specialists out of their professional ghetto while infusing such theoretically 'hot'subjects such as dress and bodies with some real material content.Both are welcome goals'.Business History Review'A collection of well researched essays ... An interesting book to dip into as each essay is complete in itself. A student of dress would find it useful as it has personal accounts that you wouldn't find anywhere else.'Costume 'This seminal publication contributes to Berg's recent prolific impact on the field of costume studies, and this book will not disappoint those searching for the latest serious academic inquiry into new areas in the field of dress ... The editor's incisiv

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Book SynopsisThe way a society deals with hair speaks volumes about its structures, its wealth, and its values. How is hair arranged? Is it left long or cut short? How often is it washed? Do men and women treat their hair differently and what does this tell us about gender? This stimulating book contains articles written by the Paris hairstylist Emile Long between December 1910 and December 1920 for an English trade journal. Long's purpose in writing was to keep English coiffeurs informed about the goings-on in the world of fashion and hairdressing in France, and especially in Paris. In doing so he has provided us with a personal cultural history of the world's most fashionable city in a period that stretches from the end of the Belle Epoque, through the First World War, and into the opening year of the Roaring Twenties. His investigation of hairstyles and fashion inevitably leads him to a fascinating discussion of important historical issues: the 'true' nature of Woman; the genesis and democratization of fashion; and popular attitudes towards hygiene. With his engaging literary style Long invites us to think about consumer habits and technology, notions of fashion and cleanliness, and changing ideals of femininity and the social order.Students and scholars of history, fashion and French society will enjoy these rich and revealing accounts of what hair means to identity and culture.Trade Review'The evolution of fashion is driven by 'some internal logic of mind and eye' rather than by sex or functional considerations [for Steven Zdatny]. It is a proposition which readers may test for themselves, both in Zdatny's sharp, stimulating introduction and in the main business of this engaging, handsomely illustrated book: the pensees of Emile Long, a Parisian coiffeur de dames ... Tut-tutting, sniffily pompous and snobbish, Emile Long ... lights up the social history of his times.'TLS 'Since January, when the Washington Post persuaded him to untangle the significance of Paula Jones's sleek hair makeover, Steven Zdatny has reigned as this country's most quoted expert on 'the aesthetics and politics of hair'.'Lingua Franca'At first sight a study of fashionable hairdressing might seem an unlikely topic for academic attention. However, as Steven Zdatny's collection illustrates, even a ha

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Book SynopsisFrom the zoot suit and Black dandy through to Rastafarianism and beyond, Black style has had a profound influence on the history of dress in the twentieth century. Yet despite this high profile, the dress styles worn by men and women of the African diaspora have received scant attention, even though the culture itself has been widely documented from historical, sociological and political perspectives. Focusing on counter - and sub-cultural contexts, this book investigates the role of dress in the creation and assertion of Black identity. From the home-dressmaking of Jamaican women, through to the Harlem Renaissance and contemporary streetstyles such as Hip-Hop and Raggamuffin, Black Britons, African Americans and Jamaicans have been at the forefront of establishing a variety of Black identities. In their search for a self-image that expresses their diaspora experience, members of these groups have embraced the cultural shapers of modernity and postmodernity in their dress. Drawing on materials from the United States, Britain and Jamaica, this book fills a gap in both the history of Black culture and the history of dress, which has until recently focused on high fashion in Europe. Because dress can both initiate and confirm change, it provides an especially useful tool for analyzing identity and resistance.Trade ReviewAn amazing new celebration of black style, from Billie Holiday to Malcolm X … the product of a lifetime’s research. * The Observer *Readers/researchers interested in understanding the style practices of the African diaspora, or looking for ways to understand the field from a position that allows for a richer and more complicated ways of observing dress history [will] certainly get something from this book. * The Journal of Dress History *In this engaging book, Tulloch (Univ. of the Arts, London) expands on her work on the ‘styled black body’…She uses an image or object—of the 2006 Stoned Cherrie Steve Biko T-shirt, say—and discusses its cultural weight and significance, presents readings and ‘wonderings’ (from her colleague Mona Choo), and then offers her own ‘alternative reading.’ The end result is a winsome mix of approaches to her subjects, backed up by serious scholarship. Summing up: Recommended. * CHOICE *The Birth of Cool makes a unique contribution to studies of dress and culture, as well as to black studies and diaspora studies. Tulloch deconstructs and reconstructs black aesthetics to open new pathways for understanding the lives and social histories of figures like Billie Holiday and Malcolm X. It is one of the most impressive works I have read in years. * D. Soyini Madison, Northwestern University, USA *The Birth of Cool offers a passionate reflexive analysis of transnational black glamour as an expression of undeniable presence, knowledge, and agency. As a foundational text, this book offers readers a deeper and more historical understanding of contemporary 'cool response' activism perhaps most famously practiced by Barack Obama, but visibly evident across the entire African diaspora. * Annette Lynch, University of Northern Iowa, USA *Table of ContentsPROVISIONAL Introduction Angel in the Market Place: The African-Jamaican Higgler 'All of Me': Billie Holiday Lasting Impressions: Harlem, Portraiture and Newness Strawberries and Cream: Dress, Migration and the Quintessence of Englishness My Man Let Me Pull Your Coat to Something: Malcolm X Beyond the Frame: Hair, Headwraps and Identity

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Book SynopsisWhen Hong Kong entrepreneur David Tang opened his Shanghai Tang boutique on New York's Madison Avenue, it was not an isolated example of the globalization of Asian fashion. Further evidence is written on the labels in our closets, and paraded in the form of salwaar-kameez and silk sarongs by the rich and famous of London. The phenomenon merits scrutiny. This vanguard attempt points to the colonial era as the origin of fashion globalization, and describes its development as paralleling the gradual take-over of Asian daily wear by Western dress. From indigenous Batak weavers to Hong Kong designers, and from Indonesian businesswomen's power suits to Korean feminists' national costume, this book explores the sartorial interface of East and West.The globalization of Asian dress needs to be understood as part of an ongoing Orientalism that construes Asia as a feminine Other to the masculine West. The conventional Orientalist definition of fashion as an exclusively Western phenomenon has proved self-fulfilling in both East and West so that the conceptual boundary between the two is continually reasserted by design. Paying close attention to Asians' decisions about what clothing to make, sell, buy, and wear, the case studies in this book challenge Orientalist stereotypes of Asian style as passive and traditional and highlight how these actions are often made invisible by global cultural, rhetorical, and material practices that feminize Asia and the fashion world. This timely book will be of interest to dress and fashion theorists, anthropologists, sociologists, historians, art historians and all those interested in globalization, Orientalism and their effects.Trade Review'This is a very good book that will be read with great appreciation by people who understand the importance of fashion in the web of human society.'Fashion Theory 'This book will be useful to readers (or fashion theorists) who are interested in understanding globalization of Asian dress from anthropological, sociological, political and historical perspectives.'Myoung Kim, University of Wisconsin, in International Textile and Apparel Association newsletter (Jan 06)Table of ContentsContents Notes on Contributorsvii Acknowledgmentsix Introduction: The Globalization of Asian Dress: Re-Orienting Fashion or Re-Orientalizing Asia?1 Carla Jones and Ann Marie Leshkowich 1Three Scenarios from Batak Clothing History: Designing Participation in the Global Fashion Trajectory49 Sandra Niessen 2The Ao Dai Goes Global: How International Influences and Female Entrepreneurs Have Shaped Vietnam's "National Costume"79 Ann Marie Leshkowich 3Korean Alterations: Nationalism, Social Consciousness, and "Traditional" Clothing 117 Rebecca Ruhlen 4Designing Diasporic Markets: Asian Fashion Entrepreneurs in London139 Parminder Bhachu 5National Colors: Ethnic Minorities in Vietnamese Public Imagery159 Hjorleifur R. Jonsson and Nora A. Taylor 6Dress for Sukses: Fashioning Femininity and Nationality in Urban Indonesia185 Carla Jones 7Fashion-Nation: A Japanese Globalization Experience and a Hong Kong Dilemma215 Lise Skov Afterword: Re-Orienting Fashion Theory243 Sandra Niessen Index267

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Book SynopsisWith an afterword by Roger Griffin.Fashion is often thought of as a matter of personal taste, completely unconnected with the public domain of political life and citizenship. Overturning this perspective, this absorbing book reveals that, from the French Revolution to post-revolutionary China, fashion has played a significant role in political participation and protest. Fashioning the Body Politic challenges the perception of helpless fashion victims, subject to manipulation by consumerism and the fashion industry, and shows how, in a range of historical and national contexts, certain styles of dress and display were significant for both men and women's political participation and the formation of their identities as citizens.How did 'dressing up' in a variety of ways allow suffragette women to perform unconventional forms of political protest? In what ways did the uniforms of scouts and guides function to erect gender, racial and religious boundaries? Following the ban on traditional clothing in Imperial Russia, how did Russians appropriate European fashions and ethnic costumes to fashion new identities for themselves? Using these and a wealth of other case studies, Fashioning the Body Politic offers a fresh perspective on the relationship between men, women and fashion and shows that the political domain has always been permeated with the cultural practices of dress, display and bodily performance.

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Book SynopsisClothing occupies a complex and important position in relation to human experience. Not just utilitarian, dress gives form to a society's ideas about the sacred and secular, about exclusion and inclusion, about age, beauty, sexuality and status. In Dressing the Elite, the author explores the multiple meanings that garments held in early modern England.Clothing was used to promote health and physical well-being, and to manage and structure, life transitions. It helped individuals create social identities and also to disguise them. Indeed, so culturally powerful was the manipulation of appearances that authorities sought its control. Laws regulated access to the dress styles of the elite, and through less formal strategies, techniques of disguise were kept as the perquisites of the powerful.Focusing on the elite, the author argues that clothing was not just a form of cultural expression but in turn contributed to societal formation. Clothes shaped the configurations of the body, affected spaces and interactions between people and altered the perceptions of the wearers and viewers. People put on and manipulated their garments, but in turn dress also exercised a reverse influence. Clothes made not just the man and the woman, but also the categories of gender itself. Topics covered include cross-dressing, sumptuary laws, mourning apparel and individual styles.Trade Review'This will be a very important publication. Susan Vincent uses techniques of historical and literary analysis to move beyond the conventional narratives of clothing history. It is a significant contribution and should be read by more than those with an existing interest in Early Modern England.'Evelyn Welch, University of SussexTable of ContentsContents Abbreviations Introduction 'When I am in Good Habitt' History and Dress The Meaning of Clothing and the Clothing of Meaning in Early Modern England . Chapter 1 Fashioning Appearances The Wardrobe - Men The Wardrobe - Women Reviewing the Wardrobe Chapter 2 Addressing the Body Outwardly for Defence - Inwardly for Cleanliness Bodily Transitions Clothing Grief Chapter 3 Clothes Make the Man His Garments Helpe Him to bee Counted Such a One Godly Apparel The Way of Wearing - Hat Honour To See and be Seen Increasing Visibility - Portraits and Livery Punishment and Shame A Very Good Fancy in Making Good Clothes Chapter 4 None Shall Wear Dress and the Law Economic Regulation Moral Regulation Social Regulation Deformity and Change - Discipline and Display Doomed to Failure? Chapter 5 Them and Us, He or She? ... p. 200 The Rogue ... p. 202 Being and Seeming ... p. 207 Actors and Courtiers ... p. 213 Wo to Men ... p. 219 Cross-Dressing ... p. 228 Conclusion From Riches to Rags ... p. 250 Bibliography ... p. 259

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Book SynopsisDress is everywhere imbued with symbols that reflect different meanings in different contexts. This compelling book convincingly demonstrates how clothing is analogous to a working language and is similarly underpinned by deeper meanings and philosophies.From tattoos and mini-skirts, to skin decoration, makeup and hair, Calefato unpicks the multiple functions of modern dress. Exploring intriguing commonalities - for example, between tattooed Egyptian mummies of 2000 BC and modern subcultural styles - Calefato considers the psychological, cultural, spiritual and symbolic significances at play in what she aptly labels 'body cartography'. What we wear is a vehicle for the (often contentious) expression of politics, gender and identity, placing clothing at the root of a complex set of messages, many of which are paradoxical. Clothing may, for example, liberate through the pleasures of masquerade and at the same time 'cage' or control the body. The Clothed Body shows how semiotics can provide a convincing template for understanding dress in a wide range of contexts and will be essential reading for anyone interested in the meaning of what we wear.Trade Review'If you like semitoics, you will love this...The author provides vivid examples to ponder from history, from popular culture, especially from film, and from her own personal experience and observation.'Textiles MagazineTable of ContentsINTRODUCTION CHAPTER 1 DRESS, LANGUAGE AND COMMUNICATION CHAPTER 2 DRESS AND SOCIAL IDENTITY CHAPTER 3 STYLE AND STYLES BETWEEN FASHION AND THE GROTESQUE CHAPTER 4 TASTE BETWEEN COMMON SENSE AND RECEIVED MEANING CHAPTER 5 WRITING THE BODY CHAPTER 6 MENS BODIES, WOMENS BODIES CHAPTER 7 EVERYDAY MODELS CHAPTER 8 THE FACE AND THE GAZE CHAPTER 9 DEGREE ZERO OF FASHION AND THE BODY: THE MODEL, THE NUDE, AND THE DOLL CHAPTER 10 FASHION AND THE WORLD CHAPTER 11 FASHION AND CINEMA CHAPTER 12 WEARING BLACK CHAPTER 13 FASHION AND MUSIC CHAPTER 14 TIME CHAPTER 15 FASHION INTERTEXTS CHAPTER 16 OBJECTS

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Book SynopsisRecent interest in 'vintage' and second hand clothes by both fashion consumers and designers is only the latest manifestation of a long and complex cultural history of wearing and trading second hand clothes. With its origins in necessity, the passing of clothes between social and economic groups is now a global business, but with roots that are centuries old. To move from one social and cultural situation to another used clothes must be 'transformed' to become of potential value to a new social group. How, when and why this has happened is the subject of this book. Old Clothes, New Looks presents a three-part focus on the history, the trading culture, and the contemporary refashioning of second hand clothing. Historical perspectives include studies located in Renaissance Florence, early industrial England, colonial Australia, and mid twentieth-century Ireland. The global nature of the second hand trade in clothing is presented through original research from Zambia, India, the Philippines, Hong Kong, and Japan. The reuse of garments as contemporary fashion statements is explored through studies that include neo-mod retro-sixties subculture in Germany, the impact of 'vintage' in the USA on consumers and designers, as well as consideration of its sartorial and cultural challenges, encapsulated by the work of designer XULY.Bet. This groundbreaking book will be essential reading for all those interested in fashion and dress, material culture, consumption and anthropology, as well as to dealers, collectors and wearers of second hand clothes.Table of ContentsIntroduction--Alexandra Palmer, Royal Ontario Museum, Canada and Hazel Clark, Parsons School of Design Historical Perspectives * Introduction--Alexandra Palmer, Royal Ontario Museum and Hazel Clark, Parsons School of Design * 'The Florentine Arigattieri: Second Hand Clothing Dealers and the Circulation of Goods in the Renaissance'--Carole Collier Frick, Southern Illinois University * 'Shifting Currency: the Culture and Economy of the Second Hand Trade in England, c. 1600-1850'--Beverly Lemire, University of New Brunswick, Canada * 'Cast Offs: Civilization, Charity or Commerce? Aspects of Second Hand Clothing Use in Australia'--Margot Riley, Independent Scholar * 'Second Hand Silk Kimono Migrating Across Borders'--Terry Satsuki Milhaupt, Independent Researcher * 'Parcels from America: American Clothes in Ireland, c. 1930 - 1980'--Hilary O'Kelly, National College of Art and Design, Dublin Trading Cultures * Introduction--Alexandra Palmer, Royal Ontarion Museum and Hazel Clark, Parsons School of Art and Design * Crafting Appearances: The Second Hand Clothing Trade and DressPractices in Zambia'--Karen Tranberg Hansen, Northwestern University * 'Creative Entrepreneurs: The Recycling of Second Hand Indian Clothing'--Lucy Norris, University College London * 'Ukay-Ukay@ Chic: Tales of Second Hand Clothing in the Philippine Cordillera'--Lynne Milgram, Ontario College of Art and Design, Canada * 'Second Hand Fashion, Culture and Identity in Hong Kong'--Hazel Clark, Parsons Scool of Art and Design Contemporary Re-Fashioning * Introduction--Alexandra Palmer, Royal Ontario Museum and Hazel Clark, Parsons School of Art and Design * 'Sixties Dress Only! The Consumption of the Past in a Retro Scene'--Heike Jen, Dortmund University, Germany * 'Vintage Whores and Vintage Virgins: Second Hand Fashion in the 21st Century'--Alexandra Palmer, Royal Ontario Museum * 'Working the Edge: XULY.Bt=s Recycled Clothing'--Victoria Rovine

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Book SynopsisThis book represents the voices of scholars, fashion designers, bloggers and artists, who speak to the pervasive nature of fashion in matters of politics, history, economics, sociology, religion, culture, art and identity. Dialogically open, the volume offers a broad apprehension of visual matter in the global contemporary context with fashion at its core, exploring its metamorphosing, media-oriented and ‘disordered’ modes of being in the early twenty-first century. The book’s contributors consider topics of universal import stemming from the realm of fashion, its dissemination and impact, from institutional, corporate, collective and individual perspectives, reflecting on the morphing, interchanging and revolutionary quality of the visual realm as the basis for continued research in fashion studies. Contributors are Shari Tamar Akal, Jess Berry, Naomi Braithwaite, Claire Eldred, Sarah Heaton, Hilde Heim, Demetra Kolakis, Sarah Mole, Lynn S. Neal, Laura Petican, Cecilia Winterhalter, Manrutt Wongkaew.

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Book SynopsisThis book is a modern exploration of how we engage with fashion today. Through a series of articles this book shows the ‘ways’ through which we can approach fashion. The articles are organized around the following six sections: marketing, consuming, educating, communicating, embodying and positioning - each with a mix of research approaches and strategies. From sustainability and consumerism to street-style and street-food. From how fashion is taught across the globe to how fashion is communicated through photography and the media. We invite the readers to be curators themselves, and to create their own ‘augmented knowledge’ of fashion, by reading the varied themes in this book. Contributors are Claire Allen, Deidra Arrington, Naomi Braithwaite, Jill Carey, Federica Carlotto, Karen Dennis, Doris Domoszlai, Linsday E. Feeny, Nádia Fernandes, Jacque Lynn Foltyn, Alessia Grassi, Chris Jones, Lan Lan, Peng Liu, Mario Matos Ribeiro, Natalie C. McCreesh, Alex McIntosh, Alice Morin, Nolly Moyssi, Maria Patsalosavvi, Laura Petican, Jennifer Richards, Susanne Schulz, Ines Simoes, Helen Storey, Steve Swindells, Stephen Wigley, Gaye Wilson and Cecilia Winterhalter.

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Book SynopsisFor the contributors to In Fashion: Culture, Commerce, Craft, and Identity being “in fashion” is about self-presentation; defining how fashion is presented in the visual, written, and performing arts; and about design, craft, manufacturing, packaging, marketing and archives. The book’s international cast of authors engage “in” fashion from various disciplinary, professional, and creative perspectives; i.e., anthropology, archaeology, art history, cultural studies, design, environmental studies, fashion studies, history, international relations, literature, marketing, philosophy, sociology, technology, and theatre. In Fashion has five sections: • Fashioning Representations: Texts, Images, and Performances; • Fashionable: Shopping, Luxury, and Vintage; • Fashion’s Materials: Craft, Industry, and Innovation; • Museum Worthy: Fashion and the Archive; • Fashioning Cultural Identities: Case Studies.

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Book SynopsisFashion is an integral part of popular culture, closely intertwined with tales, magazines, photography, cinema, television, music and sports...up to the emergence of dedicated exhibitions and museums. Fashion is undergoing a major digital transformation: garments and apparels are presented and sold online, and fashion trends and styles are launched, discussed and negotiated mainly in the digital arena. While going well beyond national and linguistic borders, digital fashion communication requires further cultural sensitivity: otherwise, it might ignite inter-cultural misunderstandings and communication crises. This book presents the recent transformation of fashion from being a Cinderella to becoming a major cultural attractor and academic research subject, as well as the implications of its digital transformation. Through several cases, it documents intercultural communication crises and provides strategies to interpret and prevent them.Table of ContentsAbstract Keywords  Introduction  1 Fashion and (Popular) Culture  2 Fashion and Communication (Technologies)  Concluding Remarks References

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Book SynopsisOver the last forty years or so academic interest in fashion has burgeoned, and, since the 1970s at least, attempts to define, analyse, and critically explain fashion phenomena have become vital areas of research and study in almost all disciplines within the humanities and social sciences.As serious academic work on and around the theory and practice of fashion continues to flourish as never before, this new title in the Routledge Major Works series, Critical Concepts in Media and Cultural Studies, meets the need for an authoritative reference work to make sense of a rapidly growing and ever more complex corpus of literature, and to provide a map of the area as it has emerged and developed. It is a landmark collection of foundational and the best cutting-edge scholarship in the field and is organized in four volumes.What is meant by fashion? Volume I provides a conspectus of some of the most important definitions and philosophies of fashion. The philosophical sources of the various senses of the word âfashionâ in the work of Kant and Adam Smith, for example, are represented here.Volume II examines the many ways in which analysts have tried to make sense of the incredible variety of things that people wear. One of the simplest ways of doing this is to describe and classify those things. A slightly more sophisticated approach has been to attempt an analysis of them. Volume II presents the best of both the descriptive and analytical approaches to the understanding of fashion.In addition to describing and analysing fashion, many scholars and other thinkers have tried to account for the very possibility of fashion. The critical task of explaining what makes fashion possible may be described as answering the question âWhy does this item of clothing look the way it does?â and it demands social, cultural, economic, and political answers. Volume III, therefore, collects the pre-eminent and most influential work to explore and explain what people wear.From whence does our individual and personal identity spring? Is it even appropriate, in an age of mass fashion, to think of ourselves as having individual identities? Volume IV gathers the essential scholarship which addresses these and other hotly contested questions about identity, image, and performance that are raised by postmodern critical analyses of fashion.Fashion is fully indexed and has a comprehensive introduction, newly written by the editor, which places the collected material in its historical and intellectual context. It is an essential work of reference and is destined to be valued by scholars and students as a vital one-stop research and pedagogic resource.

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Book SynopsisOffering full-colour history of costume, this illustrated work is intended for children. With over 320 hand-drawn illustrations, and descriptions on every page, it offers a survey of Western costume. It seeks to serve as an educational resource.Trade Review'Beautifully illustrated … sure to delight and inspire any child aged eight and above who has an interest in fashion or history' - Education TodayTable of ContentsIntroduction • Ancient Egypt 200–1200BC • Ancient Crete 2000–1200BC and Ancient Greece 600–150BC • Ancient Babylon and Assyria 1200–500BC and Persia 600–500BC Ancient Rome 100BC–AD500 and Byzantium 500BC–AD1200 • Late Antiquity and the Dark Ages 100–1000 • Early Middle Ages 1000–1100 • High Middle Ages 1100–1200 • The Age of the Crusades 1200–1250 • The Age of Invention 1250–1300 • Time of the Great Famine and Black Death 1300–1350 • The Age of Medieval Romance 1350–1400 • Late Middle Ages 1400–1430 • Early Renaissance 1430–1465 • The Age of Exploration 1465–1500 High Renaissance 1500–1525 • Time of the Conquistadors 1525–1550 • Time of the Wars of Religion 1550–1575 • The Golden Age 1575–1600 • Late Renaissance 1600–1625 • The Colonial Era 1625–1650 • The Age of Puritanism 1650–1675 • The Age of the Buccaneers 1675–1700 • The Age of Enlightenment 1700–1725 • Late Baroque Period 1725–1750 Rococo Period 1750–1775 • Era of the American and French Revolutions 1775–1800 • The Age of the Industrial Revolution 1800–1820 • The Age of the Pioneer Settlers 1820–1840 The Golden Age of the Railways 1840–1860 • Era of the American Civil War 1860–1880 The Second Industrial Revolution 1880–1900 • The Turn of the Twentieth Century 1900–1920 • Twenties & Thirties 1920–1935 • Thirties & Forties 1935–1950 • Fifties & Sixties 1950–1970 • Seventies & Eighties 1970–1985 • Modern Times 1985–present day

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Book SynopsisThe much-anticipated first book by photographer Kevin Amato, a leading influencer in fashion todayTrade ReviewAs featured in The Globe & Mail, The New York Times, T: The New York Times Style Magazine, W Magazine, and on American Photo, Cool Hunting, Crave, The Cut, DazedDigital, Highsnobiety, Refinery29, Slate, and TIME Lightbox"The design of Amato's book flows seamlessly with the energy of his photographs. A constantly moving layout, images dance across the pages, overlap, and bleed into one another; never creating a consistent pattern for the reader." —TIME"Amato is a pioneer...The gold hardcover [is] a celebration of diversity and fluidity." —Cool Hunting"Bringing street to art (and inversely, art to street) is his forté, and in a sparkling, gilded journal containing his most prized and expressive photos, his spirit and talent are both showcased and immortalized in print for the first time." —Milk Studios"New beautiful gold book." —American Photo"[A] delightfully gaudy, bright gold volume that is part retrospective of his work, part mood board, and part bible of youth culture." —Highsnobiety"Amato follows the generation of photographers before him, including Nan Goldin, Larry Clark and Ryan McGinley, who were interested in capturing new faces. For Amato, "the importants" are young New Yorkers that exemplify diversity and inclusivity." —JocksAndNerds.com"This set unfolds a like a multi-layered onion of surprises." —American Photo

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Book SynopsisA stunning volume showcasing the magnificent court dress of the Russian Empire, culled from the authoritative collection at the State Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg, photographed with the Winter Palace as a backdrop. Prerevolutionary Russia was renowned for the glamorous and luxurious lifestyles of the nobility, with their opulent palaces and glittering social life. Now, this lavish volume reveals the incredible clothing they wore, from everyday dress and ceremonial attire (traditional holidays outfits and military uniforms) to dress for special occasions, including elaborate evening wear for theater and musical events and fancy masquerade balls. Celebrated for luxurious materials and impeccable craftsmanship, the dress of the Russian nobility was haute couture at its finest. With beautiful photography and details highlighting the hand-spun silks and lace and jeweled embroideries, Russian Splendor highlights the glamour of this gilded age and offers a fascinating window inTrade Review"For a trip to colder climes, Russian Splendor mines the portraits, objets and costumes in the State Hermitage Museum of St. Petersburg for a touch of fur-trimmed luxury of the 19th-century Imperial Court."—The New York Times"This book features a plentiful selection of photographs and a history written, brilliantly, by four curators of the museum’s historical costumes department, who locate the costumes in the life of the court and its ceremonials . . . The narrative is wonderfully enriched by quotations from the memoirs and letters of courtiers and visitors who recorded moments from the lives of royal and aristocratic personages." —Art News"A stunning volume showcasing the magnificent court dress of the Russian Empire, culled from the authoritative collection at the State Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg, photographed with the Winter Palace as a backdrop."—City Book Review"With beautiful photography and details highlighting the handspun silks and lace and jeweled embroideries, this book highlights the glamour of this gilded age and offers a fascinating window into a vanished world. Essays by Hermitage Museum curators, alongside historic Russian paintings and photo-graphs, place the clothing in a historical context, revealing the rich cultural layers and artistic influences of czarist Russia."—Antiques And The Arts Weekly

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Book SynopsisClair Hughes is an independent scholar. She previously held the position of Professor of English and American Literature at the International Christian University, Tokyo, Japan.Trade ReviewA sprightly social and cultural history of headwear. * The Glasgow Herald *If you want to get ahead, get a hat. * Times Literary Supplement *A delightful examination of the hat as a social and cultural object ... A compelling, enjoyable read [and] an excellent choice for any reader interested in the social aspects of dress history. * The Journal of Dress History *Revel in Clair Hughes' wonderful world of millinery where adventure lies in a folded felt brim, excitement in every trembling feather and allure in each shimmering veil. -- Stephen Jones, London 2016Clair Hughes utilizes her extensive knowledge of literature, along with other rich sources, to go beyond a mere chronology of headwear. Her discussion of the social context and significance of hats in all their amazing variety – from Marie Antoinette’s pouf to Chaplin’s bowler and Venus William’s visor – shows the power of this most prominent accessory. -- Kristina Haugland, Associate Curator of Costume and Textiles, Philadelphia Museum of Art, USAHats is a thoroughly researched volume, written with such grace and subtle humor that it is a delight to read. Hughes singles out and explores many of the professions and circumstances which hats have "covered" and crowned throughout history, proving how indispensable this accessory has been, and continues to be. -- Cristina Giorcelli, Roma Tre University, Rome, ItalyAs Clair Hughes alerts us, instead of “Bravo,” the French shout, “Chapeau!” So tip hats to her energetic, informative survey of (mostly) English hat history. With detours to the United States, Australia and the continent, she uncovers hats in art, literature, conduct books, newspapers and advertisements to reveal how hats rule – even now when their most ubiquitous form are baseball caps worn backwards. Beginning in the dark, poisonous shops and factories of 18th- and 19th- century England and France, she explores how hats – labor-intensive products requiring skilled manipulation of exotic materials – encode class and nation, gender and sexuality, work and play. With their dual roles as signifiers of authority and power or rebellion and dash, and utilitarian protection from the hazards of work or weather, hats encapsulate the complexity of how fashion operates: its stylish ascents and descents provide a narrative and imagery of modernity. Wonderfully illustrated, deeply researched and full of personal anecdotes and astute critique, this book will send you directly to your closet to dust off that turquoise felt bowler hidden behind your bicycle helmet—and put it on. -- Paula Rabinowitz, University of Minnesota, USAClair Hughes’s unparalleled expertise on the subject of dress in literature opens a new door onto the world of hats. Her in-depth study of issues such as manufacture, identity, power, etiquette and meaning is enlivened and animated with voices and characters from fictional, historical and contemporary sources. Through these insightful contextual and anecdotal views the hat is transformed from an inert object to a vibrant living thing. For an understanding of the culture and significance of the hat in western society, this exhilarating and extensive study is an indispensable book. -- Oriole Cullen, Curator of Contemporary Fashion, Victoria and Albert Museum, UKTable of ContentsIntroduction 1 Hat-Making, Makers and Places 2 Hats and Power 3 Affiliations and Occupations 4 Etiquette and Class 5 Bowlers and 'Bergères' 6 Entertaining Hats 7 Sporting Hats 8 Fashion Hats Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisAlexandra Palmer is the Nora E. Vaughan Fashion Costume Senior Curator at the Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto, Canada. She also teaches at the University of Toronto.Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Introduction Alexandra Palmer Chapter 1 – Textiles Susan Ward Chapter 2 – Production and Distribution Veronique Poulliard Chapter 3 – The Body Adam Geczy and Vicki Karaminas Chapter 4 – Belief Susan J. Palmer and Paul Gareau Chapter 5 – Gender and Sexuality Annamari Vanska Chapter 6 – Status Jane Tynan Chapter 7 – Ethnicity Simona Segre Reinach Chapter 8 – Visual Representations Rachael Barron-Duncan Chapter 9 – Literary Representations Irene Gammel and Katherine Mulhallen Notes Bibliography Notes on Contributors Index

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Book SynopsisAisling McKeefry is Head of Design at online retail giant ASOS.com, where she oversees the design of all ASOS branded footwear, bags, accessories, and jewellery. With more than a decade of fashion design experience, she has collaborated with such notable designers as Matthew Williamson, Julian McDonald, Jasper Conran, Henry Holland, and Ben de Lisi.Table of ContentsIntroduction Core Skills 1. Design 2. Illustration 3. Understanding Fabric 4. Garment Construction 5. Selling Yourself, Your Brand, Your Product 6. Careers and Professional Skills Glossary Index

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Book SynopsisShortlisted for the Association of Dress Historians Book of the Year Award, 2021Libertine practices have long been associated with transgression and social deviance. This innovative book is the first to focus fully on the relationship between libertinism as a social phenomenon and as a form of fashion. Taking the reader from early modernity to the present day, Adam Geczy and Vicki Karaminas reveal how the connection between clothing and the taboo, the erotic, and the forbidden is at the heart of libertine fashion. Moving from the decadent courts of Charles II and Louis XV to the catwalks of the 21st century, Libertine Fashion examines literary and sartorial figures ranging from the Marquis de Sade and Lord Byron to Oscar Wilde, Josephine Baker, Colette, and Madonna. Focusing on libertinism as a sartorial practice and identity, this book traces the genealogy of the concept through the proto feminists of the English Reformation, the hedonistic decadents of the fin de sTrade ReviewAt once historically rich, learned, and playful, Libertine Fashion is a scholarly, sexy parade through fashion history with frisky side embellishments that reframe accepted thinking of the Libertine in new and thought provoking ways. * The Journal of Dress History *Wide in scope and pacily written, the book successfully pulls together a diverse body of scholarship and poses challenging arguments for the broad readership at which it is aimed. * Cultural and Social History: The Journal of the Social History Society *An illuminating reading of the phenomenon of libertinism engaging with the power of fashion and style ... An essential and comprehensive reading and a valuable resource for researchers, students and scholars of fashion, cultural studies, gender, and sexuality. * Zone Moda Journal *What does it mean to give oneself over to pleasure in dress without compromise? In Libertine Fashion Geczy and Karaminas provide provocative answers. With intelligence and wit their case studies and wide-ranging references bring sartorial libertinism alive, offering an original and much needed history of this fascinating terrain for a new generation. * Chris Breward, National Museums Scotland, UK *Making a significant contribution to critical literature, and highly entertaining to read with a pleasing lightness of touch, Libertine Fashion illuminates social and sexual rebellion, complex encounters, bizarre dalliances and innovative experiments in behaviour, manners and dress; it brings a fresh perspective to the study of fashion, gender and sexuality. * Pamela Church Gibson, London College of Fashion, UK *Both lively and scholarly, Libertine Fashion sheds new light on one of the most sensational and underestimated aspects of European cultural history. Geczy and Karaminas offer a compelling overview of transgressive fashion practices and ideologies, combining extensive research with imaginative interpretation. This provocative and witty study of Libertine tradition demonstrates the centrality of fashion for subverting gender stereotypes. * Olga Vainshtein, Russian State University for the Humanities, Russia *Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Ackowledgements Introduction: Nuancing the Libertine 1. The Merry and Scandalous Court of Charles II 2. The Divine Marquis and the Golden Age of Libertinism 3. The Byronic Hero 4. Decadent Androgynes and Masculine Impersonators: George Sand, Rachilde and Collette 5. Bizarre Dandyism and Decadence: Oscar Wilde 6. From Harlem and Pigalle: Josephine Baker 7. Postmodern Libertinism and Glam Rock: David Bowie 8. Disciplinary Regimes: The Perversity of Jean-Paul Gaultier Conclusion: We are All Libertines Now Notes Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisModern Fashion Traditions questions the dynamics of fashion systems and spaces of consumption outside the West. Too often, these fashion systems are studied as a mere and recent result of globalization and Western fashion influences, but this book draws on a wide range of non-Western case studies and analyses their similarities and differences as legitimate fashion systems, contesting Eurocentric notions of tradition and modernity, continuity versus change, and the West versus the Rest'. Preconceptions about non-Western fashion are challenged through diverse case studies from international scholars, including street-style identity in Bhutan, the influence of Ottoman cultural heritage on contemporary Turkish fashion design, and an investigation into the origins of the word fashion' in Chinese. Negotiating tradition, foreign influences and the contemporary global dominance of Western fashion cities, Modern Fashion Traditions will give readers a clearer understanding of non-Trade ReviewFrom Indian dresses adorned with holy writing to youth fashion blogs in Bhutan, from the modern re-evaluation of Ottoman costumes to the role of plastic bags in South African art and design, Modern Fashion Traditions examines fashion cultures in non-Western regions, many of which are newcomers to studies of fashion and dress. This is a lively, important, and illuminative collection for any student interested in non-Western cultures, particularly South, South East, and Far East Asian and African regions. -- Masafumi Monden, University of Technology Sydney, AustraliaTable of Contents1. Introduction M. Angela Jansen, London College of Fashion, UK, and Jennifer Craik, Queensland University of Technology, Australia PART I: FASHION HISTORY REVISED 2. Neither East nor West: Japanese Fashion in Modernity Toby Slade, University of Tokyo, Japan 3. ‘Fashion’ in the Chinese Context Christine Tsui, University of Hong Kong, China PART II: THE COMMODIFICATION OF CULTURAL HERITAGE 4. Being Fashionable in India in the Globalisation Era: Holy Writing on Garments Janaki Turaga, Independent Researcher, India 5. Exotic Narratives in Fashion: The Impact of Motifs of Exotica on Fashion Design and Fashionable Identities Jennifer Craik, Queensland University of Technology, Australia PART III: SELF-ORIENTALISM OR NATION BRANDING? 6. Ottoman Costume in the Context of Modern Turkish Fashion Design S¸akir Özüdog?ru, Anadolu University, Turkey 7. Beldi Sells: The Commodification of Moroccan Fashion M. Angela Jansen, London College of Fashion, UK PART IV: LOCAL CONSTRUCTS OF THE GLOBAL 8. History, Art, and Plastic Bags: Viewing South Africa Through Fashion Victoria L. Rovine, University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, USA 9. Constructing Fashionable Dress and Identity in Bhutan Emma Dick, Middlesex University, UK PART V: CONCLUSION 10. Afterword: Fashion’s Fallacy Sandra Niessen, Independent Anthropologist, The Netherlands Index

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Book SynopsisParis, Capital of Fashion accompanies a major exhibition at The Museum at FIT, New York's only museum dedicated solely to the art of fashion. This lavishly-illustrated book is edited by MFIT's director and chief curator, Valerie Steele, also the author of the acclaimed Paris Fashion: A Cultural History. This new book opens with an important essay on how and why Paris became famous as the international capital of fashion.Steele traces how the mythic aura of Paris fashion was constructed over generations, as the splendour of the court at Versailles came to be echoed by the spectacle of the haute couture. Yet Paris has faced repeated challenges from other fashion capitals, especially London, Milan, and New York. Essays by Christopher Breward, David Gilbert, Grazia d'Annunzio, and Antonia Finnane place Paris within a broader global narrative, while Sophie Kurkdjian investigates the cultural value of the Parisian couture, and Agnès Rocomora explores the online imagery of the Trade ReviewInsightful ... One of the fundamental strengths of this publication is its multifaceted approach to Paris ... A valuable resource for students and academics of fashion and social history. * The Journal of Dress History *This striking book unpacks the mysteries of French fashion as material product and patrimony of a creative nation. Fashion worlds from Shanghai to Milan are studied here for the first time with a French accent, in this lavishly illustrated and imaginatively argued book. * Peter McNeil FAHA, University of Technology Sydney, Australia *Fashion may be a global enterprise, but Paris, its legendary capital, is too often considered a place apart. This brilliant book situates Paris in a larger context and is indispensable reading for anyone who cares about the wide world of high style. * Caroline Weber, author of Proust’s Duchess and Queen of Fashion *In this outstanding collection Steele convenes a distinguished group of diverse historians. The result is an illuminating analysis of the mythic power both Paris and fashion hold in our consciousness. * Susan Hiner, Vassar University, USA *This excellent book, brought together by the pioneering historian of Paris fashion at her best, exploresan often ignored aspect of the story: how fashion “capitals” get to be fashion capitals and how different contenders for the title vie with each other for acceptance and supremacy. * Steve Zdatny, University of Vermont, USA *Offering both historical context and contemporary analysis, Paris, Capital of Fashion is an engaging collection of essays from an international roster of noted scholars. It provides insight into the symbiotic relationship of Paris with other fashion capitals, explores the unique cultural heritage of the Parisian fashion industry, and questions the cultural touchstone of the fashionable Parisienne. * Clare Sauro, Drexel University, USA *Table of ContentsIntroduction: Valerie Steele Chapter 1: Paris, "Capital of Fashion" Valerie Steele Chapter 2: Paris, London, Shanghai: Touring the Fashion Imaginary Christopher Breward Chapter 3: Paris, New York, London, Milan ... Paris and a world order of fashion capitals David Gilbert Chapter 4: Paris and A Tale of Italian Cities Grazia D’Annunzio Chapter 5: Between Beijing and Shanghai: fashion in the Party state Antonia Finnane Chapter 6: The Cultural Value of Parisian Couture Sophie Kurkdjian Chapter 7: #parisienne: Social Media Stratification in Visions of Parisian Women Agnès Rocamora Notes Image List Bibliography Notes on Contributors Acknowledgments Index

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Book SynopsisIn the first book to address the critical role of the (un)dressed body in the formation of the modern Middle East, these essays unveil contemporary struggles over nation, gender, modernity and post-modernity. Contributions from leading interdisciplinary scholars, exploring gender representation, photography, dress and visual culture, recount the role of the visible elite body in campaigns for gender and social emancipation, dress histories concerning early nationalist women and men, and legal frameworks used by those who seek to control the movement of gendered bodies. The result is a rich picture of a historical period and cultural landscape which brings dress and visual culture back into historical narratives of the modern Middle East.Recognising multiple modernities, multiple imperialisms and diverse regional experiences of post-colonialism, Fashioning the Modern Middle East contains a range of theoretical frameworks invaluable to students of fashion studies, Middle Eastern sTrade ReviewThese thoughtful essays on the historical meanings of dress, and what it might tell us about choices, compulsions, and self-representations, engage readers in the compelling work of interpretation. Narratives about power, these are also stories about visual archives: not only what they tell us, but how elusive they are. These scholars’ passion for the archives they’ve allowed us to view is evident. It’s a rich read. * Marilyn Booth, University of Oxford, UK *Examining the ‘corporeal’ Middle East, this innovative and multi-disciplinary volume explores different forms of representation of image on film and canvas, how both individuals and the state sought to fashion themselves, and the ways in which sartorial choice could be used to challenge established norms. * Kate Fleet, University of Cambridge, UK *This volume sheds new light on the Middle East. The underlying theme throughout the essays is in order to claim modernity people had to be prepared to absorb into their daily lives all that they perceived as that which constituted the western modernity. The book makes fascinating reading uncovering a life which few westerners could envisage. * The Journal of Dress History *Table of ContentsList of Figures Notes on Contributors Acknowledgements 1. Mapping Modern Bodies in the Middle East: Introduction Reina Lewis and Yasmine Nachabe Taan 2. Fashion and the camera: Istanbul in the late Ottoman Empire Nancy Micklewright 3. Training Slaves for the Camera: Race and Memory in Representations of Slaves, Cairo and Khartoum, 1882-1892 Eve M. Troutt Powell 4. Patronage, Taste, and Power: Slave, Manumitted, and Free Subjects in the Fashioning of Middle Eastern Modernity Reina Lewis 5. Constantin Guys and the Painters of Global Modernity Mary Roberts 6. Looking at/as Nudes: A Study of a Space of Imagination Kirsten Scheid 7. Another Look: “The Body that Is,” Gender, Sexuality, and Power in Post-Ottoman Egypt Wilson Chacko Jacob 8. The Arab Garçonne: Being Simultaneously Modern and Arab in 1920s and 1930s Palestine, Lebanon, and Egypt Yasmine Nachabe Taan 9. The Photograph, the Dress, and the Conjugalization of the Family Afsaneh Najmabadi Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisAlison Slater is Senior Lecturer in Design History at Manchester School of Art, Dept. of Art & Performance, Manchester Metropolitan University, UK. She has contributed to the journal Critical Studies in Fashion and Beauty and her PhD research features in the BBC Radio 4 documentary Rags to Riches.Susan Atkin is Deputy Division Head for Fashion Design at Manchester Fashion Institute, Manchester Metropolitan University, UK. She was previously the designer-owner of womenswear label Electricity.Elizabeth Kealy-Morris is Senior Lecturer in Dress and Belonging at Manchester Fashion Institute, Manchester Metropolitan University, UK. Her research into body dressing work has featured in The Guardian.Trade ReviewThis exciting and interdisciplinary collection of new essays pursues and develops a neglected theme: the presence, role, and importance of individual and cultural memory in the tings we wear ... The essays are individual, substantial, and represent a serious and valuable contribution to the critical theorization and practice of remembrance in and through fashion, clothing, and textiles. * Malcom Barnard, Loughborough University, UK *A diverse and insightful set of perspectives, this anthology reinforces the relevance of auto/biographical memories as a method to explore the motivations and meanings of everyday garments. Profound and poignant insights unfold as the past reverberates in the present through material engagement with clothes. * Hazel Clark, Parsons School of Design, New York, USA *Table of ContentsList of Illustrations List of Contributors Acknowledgements Introduction by Alison Slater, Susan Atkin, and Elizabeth Kealy-Morris Concepts 1. Personal Objects and Dress as Instruments for Anchoring the Self, Remembering the Past, and Enhancing Well-Being by Soljana Çili Histories 2. Remembering Respectability: Collective Memories of Working-Class Dress in Wartime Lancashire by Alison Slater 3. Memories of Making: Home Sewing in Socialist Hungary by Zsofia Juhasz 4. Nostalgia, Myth and Memories of Dress: The Cultural Memory of Madchester by Susan Atkin Objects 5. Wardrobes and Soundtracks: Resources for Memories of Youth by Jo Jenkinson 6. Ken Tynan’s Tommy Nutter Jacket as ‘Materialized Memory’ by Ben Whyman 7. Soft Murmurings: Sensing Memories in Collections of Dress by Jane Webb Practices 8. ‘The American Look’: Memories of Not Fitting In by Elizabeth Kealy-Morris 9. Black/White/Yellow by Elizabeth Chin 10. Cloth(ing) Memories: Rituals of Grieving by Lesley Beale References Index

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Book SynopsisThe Covid-19 pandemic heightened people's awareness of long-standing inequalities within the fashion industry. Amid calls for greater accountability and ethical awareness, efforts are being made within and beyond the industry, chiefly in the cultural and education sectors, to decentralize fashion: to make the conception, creation and consumption of fashionable dress and appearance less western'-centric.Supporting this premise, Hang-Ups argues that purposeful and permanent change within the fashion industry and fashion education is more likely if it is understood how the contemporary industry became western'-centric. To institute effective change, it is necessary to revert to first principles and understand how the fashion industry developed into what it is today. During a period when the concepts of fashion, history and culture are being intensely scrutinized, and with suggestions they are reaching their nadir, the imperative to understand the extent to which Trade ReviewA thoughtfully researched, carefully crafted and wildly engaging inquiry that is essential reading for all of us in fashion committed to bringing about social justice. * Ben Barry, Parsons School of Design, USA *An important and timely work that belongs on the bookshelves of serious fashion students as well as those involved in the design and promotion of fashion products. * Linda Welters, University of Rhode Island, USA *Sometimes a book come along that stops you dead in your tracks and makes you seriously think that change is long overdue. Hang-ups is one of those brave books. * Vicki Karaminas, Massey University, New Zealand *A timely book that dialogues with the complicated multidimensional dynamics of fashion and dress … Utilizes historic and culture guideposts to challenge assumptions, colonialism, paradigms, and ‘western’ trappings and tropes. * Therèsa M. Winge, Michigan State University, USA *Table of ContentsAcknowledgements Introduction 1. Undress 2. Gender 3. Race 4. Sexuality 5. Age 6. Religion 7. Wealth 8. Violence 9. Shape Conclusion Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisShirts, Shifts and Sheets of Fine Linen explores how the jobs of the seamstress' evolved in scope, and status, between 1600-1900.In the 17th and early 18th centuries, seamstressing was a trade for women who worked in linen and cotton, making men's shirts, women's chemises, underwear and baby linen; some of these seamstresses were consummate craftswomen, able to sew with stitches almost invisible to the naked eye. Few examples of their work survive, but those that do attest to their skill. However, as the ready-to-wear trade expanded in the 18th century, women who assembled these garments were also known as seamstresses, and by the 1840s, most seamstresses were outworkers for companies or entrepreneurs, paid unbelievably low rates per dozen for the garments they produced, notorious examples of downtrodden, exploited womenfolk. Drawing on a range of original and hitherto unpublished sources, including business diaries, letters and bills, Shirts, ShiftsTrade ReviewPam Inder has accomplished a monumental feat of scholarship with this comprehensive history of the seamstress. It is an invaluable resource for understanding the lives and economies devoted to what was long considered to be “women's work”. * Jean Druesedow, Kent State University, USA *Pam Inder’s forensic research shines a spotlight into the corners of the seamstress’s world and gives voice to their lives. * Kate Strasdin, Falmouth University, UK *An important contribution to the study of female achievement in the provision of simple but essential clothing and household linens. Across three centuries, using original documents and artistic and literary sources, this book offers a fresh perspective on the role of seamstresses in relation to dress history. * Valerie Cumming, Costume: The Journal of the Costume Society, UK *Table of ContentsList of Plates List of Illustrations List of Tables Acknowledgements Introduction 1. ‘The Art and Mystery of Simistry’ in the Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries 2. ‘Well-handed Needlewomen’ 3. The Development of Ready-to-Wear 4. ‘Linnen Drapery at Reasonable Rates’ 1720-1820 5. Slops and Slop-sellers 6. ‘Seam and Gusset and Band’ 7. ‘Society came and shuddered’ 8. Bespoke Needlework 9. Real Lives 10. The Seamstress in Art and Literature Conclusion Notes Bibliography Image sources Index

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Book SynopsisWith contributions from leading experts, this edited collection presents original research on the skills brought by immigrant communities to the textile and fashion industries, from the early modern to postmodern periods in Asia and the Islamic World, Europe, Africa, and the Americas.Manufacturing of textiles and apparel is arduous work, which historically depended on skilled artisans, inexpensive labor, and the introduction of labor-saving technology. Immigrant communities supplied much of the work force, bringing their own skill sets to new locations, leading to the development of new manufacturing centers and an increase in both production and technical expertise. Throughout the volume, the role of migration and immigrant involvement in manufacturing is also examined in relation to trade, politics, and socio-religious circumstances prompting relocation.Deconstructing the question of provenance by examining the cultural identity of migrant populations, the rTrade ReviewExtends valuable critical enquiry into the role historically played by workers in textile and garment production. It is an important collection of studies for design history researchers, especially those with an interest in sericulture and silk consumption. -- Katie Irani, Doctorate researcher, Royal College of Art & Associate Lecturer, London College of Fashion, UKSpanning centuries and continents, the essays in this volume integrate mythology, Abrahamic narratives, plantation ledgers and personal accounts to complement the scholarly analysis of the histories, skill, knowledge and craft that construct individual identity and accompany human migration. -- Wendy Weiss, Emeritus Professor, University of Nebraska-Lincoln, USATable of ContentsPreface Part One: Introduction 1. A Brief History of Textile Production and Trade – Nazanin Hedayat Munroe, NYC College of Technology, City University of New York, USA Part Two: Imported Myths, Imported Moths: Silk Production Across Asia 2. Histories of Silken Skills: Immigrant Sericulturalists in Early Modern South Asia – Sylvia Houghteling, Bryn Mawr College in Bryn Mawr, Pennsylvania, USA 3. Prophets and Caterpillars: The Story of Job and the Social Mobility of Silk Workers and Weavers in the Early Modern Islamic World – Nader Sayadi, University of Rochester, New York, USA Part Three: Imported Skills: Weaving Specialists Go Global 4 Master Craftsmen in Migration: Safavid Silk Weavers in Mughal India – Nazanin Hedayat Munroe, NYC College of Technology, City University of New York, USA 5. Weaving Andean Textiles on Islamic Looms: The Importation of Skilled Weavers in the Colonial Andes – Maria Madison Smith, Syracuse University, New York, USA Part Four: Imported Labor: Enslaved and Immigrant Workers in America 6. Clothing the Black Body in Slavery: Stolen Lives and Imported Labor – Wanett Clyde, NYC College of Technology, City University of New York, USA 7. How the Other Half Works: Perceptions and Realities of Immigrant Labor in the New York Apparel Industry – Nazanin Hedayat Munroe, NYC College of Technology, City University of New York, USA Part Five: Imported Culture: Textile as Tradition in the Diaspora 8. Silk Weaving in the Cambodian Refugee Crisis and Diaspora: Displaced Practice and Identities in the Post-Khmer Rouge Era – Magali An Berthon, Center for Textile Research, University of Copenhagen, Denmark 9. The Evolution of an Identity: Tracing the Trajectory of Sindhi Ajrak across the India–Pakistan Border – Pragya Sharma, Indian Institute of Art and Design, New Delhi, India Conclusion Glossary of Textile Terms References Index

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Trade ReviewWhile describing how writers have used items of clothing in neo-Victorian narratives, this book also does much more. It helps us to appreciate gloves, gowns, veils, and jewels in fiction as active agents; it illuminates beautifully their lives as individual characters with their own memorable stories and emotional baggage. * Margaret D. Stetz, Mae and Robert Carter Professor of Women’s Studies, University of Delaware, USA *Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Acknowledgements 1. Introduction: Re-Fashioning the Victorians Re-Fashioning the Past Reading and Writing Dress: Texts and Textiles (Neo-)Victorian Sartorial and Material Culture Neo-Victorian Fashions: Chapter Outlines 2. Gowns Neo-Victorianism and New Materialism Dynamic Dresses in The Master Sartorial Entanglements in Alias Grace 3. Gloves Fashioning Identity, Agency, and Desire in Waters’s Neo-Victorian Trilogy ‘The impress of her hand’: Victorian Gloves Neo-Victorian Gloves: Touch, Materiality, and Queer Desire Material Traces of the Past 4. Veils Victorian Veils Neo-Victorian Veils Veils and Canvases in The Ghost Writer: Revealing the Past Veils, Bindings, Skin: Concealing Bodies and Books in The Journal of Dora Damage 5. Jewellery Ornamenting the Victorian Woman Heirlooms and Afterlives: Jewellery in Great Expectations and Havisham ‘Talisman’ Turquoises and ‘Poisoned’ Diamonds in Daniel Deronda and Gwendolen 6. Conclusion Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisIn recent years, menswear has moved decisively center stage. Menswear Revolution investigates the transformation of men's fashion through the lens of shifting masculinities, examining how its increasing diversity has created new ways for men to explore and express their identities. Harnessing sustained market growth and creative dynamism on the runway, ground-breaking designers from Raf Simons and Hedi Slimane to Craig Green have revolutionized the discipline with their bold re-imaginings of the male wardrobe.Analysing the role of the media in shaping attitudes to men's fashion, Menswear Revolution studies how competing narratives of masculinity are reflected in popular discourse. Taking us from the mod and peacock revolutions of the 1960s to the new wave aesthetics of the 1980s, the book explores historical precedents for today's menswear scene and looks at the evolution of the ideal' male body, from the muscular to the lean and boyish. Combining interviews with fashionTrade ReviewMcCauley Bowstead’s talent lies not only his is deft handling of an enormous quantity of material, but also in his ability to write coherently with sophistication. His work is like a bespoke suit compared to ready-to-wear. You know—and appreciate—the difference once you slip it on. Menswear Revolution is quality craftsmanship. -- Andy Reilly, University of Hawai`i, USA, Editor of Critical Studies in Men's FashionBowstead’s book is an excellent contribution to the growing menswear bookshelf. Articulating his own experiences of searching for and wearing fashions that were at the edge of acceptability, and the blurring of gender conventions in his dress, is an important facet in the success of this book, along with his ability to succinctly summarise historical precedents and theoretical perspectives. The work is sophisticated yet accessible and I, for one, would heartily recommend that this takes its place in key reading texts for students of fashion, design, history and cultural studies and academics’ Christmas wishlists. * Journal of Dress History *Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Introduction 1. Disciplinary Discourses · New Markets · New Men? · Hipster Hate · Performance Anxiety · Fearing Femininity · Reverse Discourse · Contested Masculinities 2. Historical Resonances · Fashion and Modernity · The Birth of Consumer Culture · The 1980s · Authenticity and Irony 3. Body Language: towards a phenomenology of masculinity · Embodied and Disembodied Masculinities: the male body in the twentieth century · The Liberated body · Holding out for a hero · The 1990s and its legacy · The Fourth Sex: Androgyny and Objectification 4. Millennial Men · Subculture, Music & Fashion · Queering Men’s Fashion · Millennial Men 5. The Shock of the New · The State of the Art: menswear since 2010 · Androgyny in Contemporary Menswear · Workers of the world unite · Athleisure · Deconstructing tailoring · The New Monasticism · The Shock of the New Conclusion Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisIn the decade since Writing for the Fashion Business was first published, the Internet and social media have upended the field of journalism and the fashion world, revolutionizing both industries and changing the very nature of storytelling. This second edition devotes significant space to digital content, with dedicated chapters covering online content, social media, and streaming video content. In addition to journalism, it also includes instruction on how to write for new promotional approaches emerging in the fashion world like influencer and experiential marketing, and introduces inclusion vocabulary to ensure non-discriminatory narratives. Whether in the form of an article, book, press release, email, or DM, students will gain an understanding of how written communication methods sync up with today's most common methods of commerce and communication. New to this Edition:-Trending Topic box features in each chapter discuss recent, real-life controversial situations w

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