Description
Book SynopsisFrom the zoot suit and Black dandy through to Rastafarianism and beyond, Black style has had a profound influence on the history of dress in the twentieth century. Yet despite this high profile, the dress styles worn by men and women of the African diaspora have received scant attention, even though the culture itself has been widely documented from historical, sociological and political perspectives. Focusing on counter - and sub-cultural contexts, this book investigates the role of dress in the creation and assertion of Black identity. From the home-dressmaking of Jamaican women, through to the Harlem Renaissance and contemporary streetstyles such as Hip-Hop and Raggamuffin, Black Britons, African Americans and Jamaicans have been at the forefront of establishing a variety of Black identities. In their search for a self-image that expresses their diaspora experience, members of these groups have embraced the cultural shapers of modernity and postmodernity in their dress. Drawing on materials from the United States, Britain and Jamaica, this book fills a gap in both the history of Black culture and the history of dress, which has until recently focused on high fashion in Europe. Because dress can both initiate and confirm change, it provides an especially useful tool for analyzing identity and resistance.
Trade ReviewAn amazing new celebration of black style, from Billie Holiday to Malcolm X … the product of a lifetime’s research. * The Observer *
Readers/researchers interested in understanding the style practices of the African diaspora, or looking for ways to understand the field from a position that allows for a richer and more complicated ways of observing dress history [will] certainly get something from this book. * The Journal of Dress History *
In this engaging book, Tulloch (Univ. of the Arts, London) expands on her work on the ‘styled black body’…She uses an image or object—of the 2006 Stoned Cherrie Steve Biko T-shirt, say—and discusses its cultural weight and significance, presents readings and ‘wonderings’ (from her colleague Mona Choo), and then offers her own ‘alternative reading.’ The end result is a winsome mix of approaches to her subjects, backed up by serious scholarship. Summing up: Recommended. * CHOICE *
The Birth of Cool makes a unique contribution to studies of dress and culture, as well as to black studies and diaspora studies. Tulloch deconstructs and reconstructs black aesthetics to open new pathways for understanding the lives and social histories of figures like Billie Holiday and Malcolm X. It is one of the most impressive works I have read in years. * D. Soyini Madison, Northwestern University, USA *
The Birth of Cool offers a passionate reflexive analysis of transnational black glamour as an expression of undeniable presence, knowledge, and agency. As a foundational text, this book offers readers a deeper and more historical understanding of contemporary 'cool response' activism perhaps most famously practiced by Barack Obama, but visibly evident across the entire African diaspora. * Annette Lynch, University of Northern Iowa, USA *
Table of ContentsPROVISIONAL Introduction Angel in the Market Place: The African-Jamaican Higgler 'All of Me': Billie Holiday Lasting Impressions: Harlem, Portraiture and Newness Strawberries and Cream: Dress, Migration and the Quintessence of Englishness My Man Let Me Pull Your Coat to Something: Malcolm X Beyond the Frame: Hair, Headwraps and Identity
