Cultural studies: dress and society Books

Book SynopsisSurvey of Historic Costume Coloring Book highlights Western dress from the ancient world to today through fashion silhouettes. By coloring line drawings that parallel chapters from the Survey of Historic Costume, Seventh Edition textbook, students will learn to identify and retain specific details that make each historical period's fashion unique. Each chapter also includes activities and prompts to promote further thinking and creativity, including features like Draw-It Boxes and Modern Connections Boxes. Through these dynamic, hands-on exercises, students will develop an understanding of historic costume, increase awareness of world culture, and have fun through this interactive learning medium.Features:-92 pieces of line art to color, adapted from images in Survey of Historic Costume -Modern Connections Boxes, Draw-It Boxes, Activity Boxes, and Global Connections Boxes provide additional exercises to apply knowledge of costume history and design -Image CTable of ContentsPreface and Acknowledgments 1. Mesopotamian Civilization, c. 3500-600 BCE 2. Greece and Rome, c. 650 BCE–400 CE 3. The Byzantine Period and the Early Middle Ages, c. 330–1500 CE 4. The Late Middle Ages, c. 1300–1500 5. The Italian Renaissance, c. 1400–1600 6. The Northern Renaissance, c. 1500–1600 7. The 17th Century, 1600–1700 8. The 18th Century, 1700–1790 9. The Directoire Period and the Empire Period, 1790–1820 10. The Romantic Period, 1820–1850 11. The Crinoline Period, 1850–1870 12. The Bustle Period and the 1890s, 1870–1900 13. The Edwardian Period and World War I, 1900–1920 14. The 1920s: The Jazz Age 15. The 1930s: The Great Depression 16. The 1940s: World War II to the New Look 17. The 1950s: Fashion Conformity 18. The 1960s: Style Tribes Emerge 19. The 1970s: Activism and Fashion 20. The 1980s: Changing Roles 21. The 1990s: Fashion Fragmentation 22. The 2000s: The New Millennium 23. The 2010s: The Modern Age Image Captions and Cross References

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Book SynopsisObject Lessons is a series of short, beautifully designed books about the hidden lives of ordinary things.Few clothing items are as ubiquitous or casual as blue jeans. Yet, their simplicity is deceptive. Blue jeans are nothing if not an exercise in opposites. Americans have accepted jeans as a symbol of their culture, but today jeans are a global consumer product category. Levi Strauss made blue jeans in the 1870s to withstand the hard work of mining, but denim has since become the epitome of leisure. In the 1950s, celebrities like Marlon Brando transformed the utilitarian clothing of industrial labor into a glamorous statement of youthful rebellion, and now, you can find jeans on chic fashion runways. For some, indigo blue might be the color of freedom, but for workers who have produced the dye, it has often been a color of oppression and tyranny. Blue Jeans considers the versatility of this iconic garment and investigates what makes denim a universal signifier, ready to fit Trade ReviewLike a best friend in a changing room, Purnell provides funny, fascinating, and sometimes horrifying commentary on your taste in jeans. Never again will you slip on a pair without thinking about the global historical and economic forces shaping your rear end. * Erin Thompson, Associate Professor of Art Crime, CUNY, USA *Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Introduction: The Most Versatile Garment 1. Distress Blue Blood Blue Dye Blue Is Not Green Blue Collar 2. Cut The Wild One Hemmed In It’s All in the Jeans The Denim Defense 3. Comfort Everywhere Everywhen Everyday Everyone Conclusion: The Paradox of Jeans Index

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Book SynopsisWhite T-shirt, Miniskirt, Hoodie, Jeans, Ballet flat, Breton top, Biker jacket, Little black dress, Stiletto, Trench. What are you wearing? In all likelihood, your outfit will feature at least one of these 10 items. Familiar, commonplace, ubiquitous – each piece has become an emblem of a certain style, carrying its own connotations and historical significance. They aren't just clothes – our social history is contained within these perfect 10 pieces. They're vessels that hold the history of style, politics and identity: while trends may come and go, these are here to stay.The Ten includes deep dive explorations into each item's history, how it gained its reputation, and what it means today, accompanied by stylish photography and illustrations. Stories of iconic adopters and landmarks in the story of each piece reveal how they have achieved their status as so ubiquitous and yet so extraordinary. From the evolution of the white T-shirt from army staple to symbol of achingly cool simplicity, the hoodie's birth in the monasteries of Rome to its domination of streetwear, and the transition of the stiletto from the feet of fifteenth-century Iranian equestrians to those of New York businesswomen, The Ten puts fashion in context. Showing how certain pieces are just as ubiquitous on the catwalk as on the street, Lauren Cochrane's crucial volume defines the fashion items that make up your wardrobe, and how they got there, providing the perfect excuse – a pedigree, a narrative, a realness – for the reader to wear them time and time again.Trade Review'Amazing. What perfect timing for fashion's new wave' -- Barbara Hulanicki, Founder, BIBA'A deeper-than-deep dive into fashion's enduring classics' -- Navaz Batliwalla, DisneyRollerGirl'Lauren Cochrane's The Ten is the definitive one-stop guide to fashion's most essential and iconic styles, with an unrivalled collection of the fashion industry's authoritative voices – from mainstream icons to underground figures – shedding light on the cultural and personal impact of classics that will never date. The perfect gift and resource for anyone with an interest in style' -- Sara McAlpine, Fashion Features Editor, ELLETable of ContentsWhite T-shirt • Miniskirt • Hoodie • Jeans • Ballet flat • Breton top • Biker jacket • Little black dress • Stiletto • Trench.

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Book SynopsisLess than three decades ago, when the Chinese bought cloth or clothes, they would have had to use a government-issued coupon. Today the Chinese fashion industry is one of the most dynamic in the world - it not only supplies fashions to the increasingly discerning domestic market, but also provides one-third of the clothing sold in the global market. How did this phenomenal transition come about? What can the growth of the Chinese fashion industry tell us about the post-Mao China? What roles do the local and the global play in the dramatic changes? This book offers a historically informed, ethnographically grounded and interpretive analysis of contemporary Chinese fashion and the fashion industry. It examines the interplay of state politics, market forces, local social and cultural factors, and the global political economy, both in the rise of the Chinese fashion industry and in the life and work of Chinese fashion professionals. As the first ethnographic account of the Chinese fashion industry in the post-Mao era, The Chinese Fashion Industry combines first-hand accounts with sophisticated cultural analysis to offer new insights, and will be of interest to students and scholars of fashion, anthropology and China.Trade ReviewThe analyses are timely and important, and Zhao shows conclusively that many of our assumptions about fashion, the market, and modernization do not apply simplistically in the case of China. The book is short and readable and would be of interest to anthropologists working on material culture, globalization, and fashion and would be accessible to students and the general public. -- Jack David Eller * Anthropology Review Database *The book is a “must-read” for anyone who wants to know about China’s fashion scene. Zhao has contributed many unique and interesting insights that are informed by his scholarly background in anthropology. His ability to challenge established theories and traditional views deserves admiration from both scholars and general readers. Another noteworthy point is Zhao’s accessible yet informed writing style. This is not just a book for scholars in the field, but also an interesting text for anyone who wants to understand more about Chinese political, social and economic culture, as it has applied to the fashion industry. -- Christine Tsui, Parsons The New School for Design * The China Journal, No. 72 *Table of ContentsI. Introduction II. Rise of the Chinese Fashion Industry Chapter 1: The Growth of Chinese Textile and Apparel Industries Chapter 2: What Do Changing Chinese Fashions Really Tell Us? III. Creating Fashion in China Chapter 3: Designing a National Style: The Tangzhuang Phenomenon Chapter 4: For the Sake of Art or for the Market? The Cultural Economy of Fashion Design Chapter 5: Creating Fashion on the Runway, Chinese Style Chapter 6: Making Clothes for International Markets IV. Conclusion: Clothing, Modernization, and Globalization Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisIs there a peculiarly English 'look' and if so how does one define it? From the 'traditional' dress of the Victorian rural working class through to the contemporary collections of Vivienne Westwood and a younger generation of London-based designers, notions of Englishness, either real or imagined, have always been at play in considerations of English fashion and clothing. This provocative book explores how far these fraught ideals can be applied to the dress of the past and present. English expressions of taste and creativity have had a profound influence on style over the last three centuries, and the pursuit and subversion of an English 'look' have shaped conceptions of fashionability from the pastoralism of the eighteenth-century through to the eras of Twiggy, Punk and beyond. But are these simply stereotypical characterizations that relate to an imagined 'Englishness', or is there some concrete basis for them? If the former, what has led to their development? If the latter, what definitions can be employed to unravel such complicated conceptions of national identity? What role has social decorum played in developing an 'English' style, and is this preoccupation with etiquette in fact unique to England ? With chapters authored by leading scholars in the fields of costume history, social history and cultural studies, this is the first book to examine the ways in which fashion and dress might be considered in the context of national identities as they apply in England. Presenting an overview of how particular designers and consumer groups have striven to present or contest versions of Englishness through clothing from the 18th through to the 21st centuries, it will fascinate anyone interested in dress history, national and ethnic identity or English cultural history.Trade ReviewThis highly illustrated text will fascinate anyone interested in dress history, national and ethnic identity or English cultural history. International Textiles A well-researched scholarly piece that is definitely worth reading ... highly recommended for those who are interested in dress, fashion, and cultural and national identity. ITAA Newsletter The Englishness of English Dress is an intelligent, thoughtful and engaging collection of essays addressing the construction of national identity through dress and tradition ... Every essay in this book is worth reading - not always the case with collections of this sort. It should be on the bookshelf of anyone with an academic interest in the language of dress. Embroidery Magazine Whether the subject is tennis garb, home dressmaking, rural working-class clothing, royal couturiers, or fashion photographers, the volume's contributors turn the idea of universal Englishness upside down and inside out. Business History Review

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Book SynopsisAlthough the Victorian white wedding dominates western bridal dress and large portions of former colonial empires, marriage rituals vary significantly throughout the world. The Japanese, for instance, combine both traditional ceremonies with receptions utilizing western approaches to dress. In the Andes the bride will personally create a multi-layered dress to showcase her weaving skills. Berber brides in Morocco wear binding clothing that covers their faces, a notable contrast to Canadian prairie-province brides whose stylized gowns individualize and enhance body shape. This engaging book examines the evolution and ritual functions of wedding attire within the context of particular cultures. It raises questions as to the relationship between contemporary wedding attire and traditional values. It discusses the changes international migrations have had upon the wedding dress of several ethnic groups. It provides insights into numerous societal relationships to weddings, such as the ban on bridal-produced embroidery in dowries in India, the challenges individual values have to larger societal ones in themed weddings, and the relationship between the return to pre-western attire and identity politics. Exploring these issues, the authors provide unusual insights into the centrality of dress in shaping individual identity as well as its importance in reflecting cultural values and ideals.Trade ReviewThe essays in Wedding Dress Across Cultures eloquently support the premise that costume for weddings is the most profound and exquisite way that a society distinguishes itself in the language of dress. The Journal of American Culture A tremendous amount of research has gone into this book, and every page is crammed with interesting and significant facts. It has absolutely everything a student or researcher needs to know about weddings. Elizabeth EmanuelTable of Contents1. Something plain and simple? Unpacking custom-made wedding dresses from western Canada, 1950-1955. Kathryn Church (Independent Scholar, Toronto, Canada) 2. Satin dresses and caribou kamiks: negotiation of tradition in northern Alaska Inupiaq weddings. Cyd Martin (University of Alaska, Fairbanks) 3. Packaged in Japan: elite weddings in Osaka. Masami Suga (Independent scholar, St. Paul, Minnesota) 4. Korean wedding dress from the Chosun Dynasty (1392-1910) to the present. Na Young Hong (Ewha Women's University, Seoul, Korea) 5. Marriage and dowry customs of the Rabadi of Kachchh: evolving traditions. Eiluned Moir Edwards (De Montford University) 6. Pragmatism and enigmas: the Panetar and Gharcholu saris in Gujarati weddings. Donald Clay Johnson (University of Minnesota, Minneapolis) 7. Swazi bridal attire: culture, traditions, customs. Laura Kidd (Southern Illinois University, Carbondale, Lombuso S. Khoza, Southern Illinois University) 8. Gender, identity, and Moroccan weddings: the adornment of the Ait Khabhash Berber bride and groom. Cynthia Becker(University of St. Thomas, St. Paul, Minnesota) 9. An Athenian wedding, year 2000. Helen Bradley Foster (College of Visual Arts, St. Paul, Minnesota) 10. An historic perspective of English and Soviet bridalwear between 1900 and 1960. Janice Mee (De Montford University, Leicester, England, Irina Safronova, St. Petersburg State University of Technology and Design) 11. He gave her sandals and she gave him a tunic: cloth and weddings in the Andes. Lynn A. Meisch (St. Mary's College of California, Moraga) 12. Slavic wedding customs on two continents. Patricia Williams (University of Wisconsin-Stevens Point) 13. Always remembering the motherland: Tai Dam wedding textiles and dress. Elyse Demaray (Iowa State University, Ames, Melody Keim-Shenk, Iowa State University) 14. The groom wore a kilt: carnivalesque and theme weddings. Theresa Winge (and Joanne Eicher, both University of Minnesota)

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Book SynopsisA visual introduction to some of the most exciting innovators in their field today.

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Book SynopsisTwists, dreads, comb styles, weaves, afro'd and treated: every style has its own stories, occasions and meanings. Each one says a different thing about how people present themselves to the world, and each are included in this enthralling book.

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Book SynopsisThis book focuses on the dress of one royal individual, Henry and his physique, portraiture, personal wardrobe, jewellery, regalia and ceremonial robes. It is the only other substantial record of the king's clothes in English archives on wardrobe and inventory.Trade Review...Hayward's study would be an excellent library addition for museum professionals, costume designers, teachers - really any reader with a scholarly interest in dress of the Tudor period. The bibliography is exhaustive, up-to-date, and an excellent research tool on its own.' -- Costume Society of America Costume Society of America Hayward...has written the first, and what will surely remain the fullest, history of early Tudor court dress.(...)Haywards painstaking research yields raw data that will be of interest to anyone studying Renaissance kingship.(...)...a meticulous, informative study of one aspect of court culture that all students of Renaissance monarchy will want to consult. -- Renaissance Quarterly Renaissance Quarterly ...a compelling collection of information and a useful reference.' -- Medieval Clothing and Textiles , vol 14 Medieval Clothing and Textiles , vol 14Table of Contents1. Henry VIII: The Man and his Image 2. Henry VIII: European Prince and King of England 3. Creating Magnificence: The Role of the Great Wardrobe 4. The Cycle of Royal Life: Coronations to Funerals 5. Henry VII: Establishing the House of Tudor 6. Henry VIII's Wardrobe Unlock'd 7. Henry VIII's Ceremonial Wardrobe: Observing the Ritual Year 8. Caring for the King's Clothes: The Wardrobe of the Robes and the Laundry 9. Female Fashions at Henry VIII's Court 10. An Expression of Individuality: An Analysis of the Wardrobes of Henry VIII's Wives and Sisters 11. The King's Children: Dressed to Impress 12. The Henrician Court 13. The Royal Household: Form, Function and Livery 14. Livery for the Households of Henry VII and his Family 15. Henry VIII's Household: The Domus Magnificencie and the Domus Providencie 16. Outside the Household: The Stable, the Hunts and Beyond 17. Tudor Military Splendour 18. The Households of Henry VIII's Wives, Sisters and Children 19. The Royal Artificers: The Royal Artificers 20. Making the Tudor Wardrobe 21. Transcription Notes

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Book SynopsisThe Iconic Jersey: Baseball x Fashion explores the design and aesthetics of the iconic baseball jersey both on and off the sandlot. Featuring over 35 historic and contemporary jerseys and baseball-inspired fashion, this ground-breaking volume also examines wider sociological issues: why do we care so much about sports attire, and what do such clothes mean to us and the wider world? The Iconic Jersey is packed with images: often controversial baseball-inspired fashion— flannel wool fabrics, vibrant technicolour, button-up bib fronts, even ties and collars— drawn from the Baseball Hall of Fame, Cooperstown; the Smithsonian’s National Museum of American History, Washington, D.C.; and the Boston Red Sox; baseball magazines; fashion magazines; and archival photographs, including Terry O’Neill’s famous photos of Elton John at Los Angeles’ Dodger Stadium in 1975 in a Bob Mackie-designed Dodger’s uniform, and Nike’s 2020 designs for the Major Leagues. An essay by Erin R. Corrales-Diaz explores the jersey as an entry point into 170 years of baseball uniforms and examines the relationship between aesthetics and athletics, fashion and function, the collective and the individual, regional and national impulses, and nostalgia and modernity.Table of ContentsDirectors’ Foreword; Acknowledgments; Rooting for Laundry; Behind the Seams; Plates: The Modern Jersey; Experimental Design; Off the Field; Notes; Selected Bibliography; Photography Credits; Index

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Book SynopsisBeards-they're all the rage these days. Take a look around: from hip urbanites to rustic outdoorsmen, well-groomed metrosexuals to post-season hockey players, facial hair is everywhere. The New York Times traces this hairy trend to Big Apple hipsters circa 2005 and reports that today some New Yorkers pay thousands of dollars for facial hair transplants to disguise patchy, juvenile beards. And in 2014, blogger Nicki Daniels excoriated bearded hipsters for turning a symbol of manliness and power into a flimsy fashion statement. The beard, she said, has turned into the padded bra of masculinity. Of Beards and Men makes the case that today's bearded renaissance is part of a centuries-long cycle in which facial hairstyles have varied in response to changing ideals of masculinity. Christopher Oldstone-Moore explains that the clean-shaven face has been the default style throughout Western history-see Alexander the Great's beardless face, for example, as the Greek heroic ideal. But the primacy of razors has been challenged over the years by four great bearded movements, beginning with Hadrian in the second century and stretching to today's bristled resurgence. The clean-shaven face today, Oldstone-Moore says, has come to signify a virtuous and sociable man, whereas the beard marks someone as self-reliant and unconventional. History, then, has established specific meanings for facial hair, which both inspire and constrain a man's choices in how he presents himself to the world. This fascinating and erudite history of facial hair cracks the masculine hair code, shedding light on the choices men make as they shape the hair on their faces. Oldstone-Moore adeptly lays to rest common misperceptions about beards and vividly illustrates the connection between grooming, identity, culture, and masculinity. To a surprising degree, we find, the history of men is written on their faces.

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Book SynopsisExplores the history of men's dress in America to consider how capitalism and democracy emerged at the center of social life during the century between the Revolution and the Civil War. This book illuminates the critical links among culture, ideology, political economy, and fashion in antebellum America.Trade Review"A marvelous work of history, imaginatively conceived, scrupulously researched, and gracefully composed." - Jean-Christophe Agnew, Yale University"

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Book SynopsisTrade ReviewThis collection of essays is enlightening and fruitful in demonstrating the richness of the scholarship regarding fashion and film, evident in the range of voices and range of conceptual approaches. This would be an invaluable read for scholars and fans of fashion and film costume, as well as for film historians, particularly with an interest in 1960s European film. * Historical Journal of Film, Radio and Television *With a focus on the most turbulent decade of the twentieth century, the collection of essays in Film, Fashion, and the 1960s captures a period profoundly marked by cultural innovation, political activism, and a rising consumer demographic that questioned conventional boundaries and reshaped the urban environment. . . . Film, Fashion, and the 1960s is an important resource that offers an additional perspective on the collaboration between directors and costume designers and may provide inspiration for further discussions. Most importantly, the range of topics illuminated by the analysis of the intermediality of cinema and fashion would appeal to readers interested in the cultural implications of the decade and its emerging trickle up mechanisms that allowed consumers to transform themselves into active participants in the construction of the modern fashion system. -- Alicia Mihalić * The Journal of Dress History *Table of ContentsAcknowledgementsIntroduction / Eugenia Paulicelli and Louise WallenbergPart 1: 1960s: Youth Culture and Sexual Liberation1. Sanitizing the Beatles for Revolution: Music, Film, and Fashion in 1960s A Hard Day's Night / Ronald Gregg2. The Art of Undressing: Automation and Exposure at the Margins of Cinema / Amy Herzog3. Pasolini's Teorema: the Eroticism of the Visitor's Discarded Clothes / Stella Bruzzi4. Rite of Passage: the Hat that Wouldn't Disappear in the 1960s / Drake StutesmanPart 2: Cities, Nations and Fashion5. Fashion Apart: Godard and Fageol in the 1960s Paris / Astrid Söderbergh Widding6. Fashion, Film, Rome / Eugenia Paulicelli7. Contexts, Contradictions, Couture, and Clothing: Fashion in An American in Paris, Breakfast at Tiffany's and A Touch of Mink / Pat Kirkham and Marilyn CohenPart 3: Gender: Modernity/Tradition8. The Fashioning of Julie Christie and the Mythologizing of "Swinging London": Changing Images in Sixties Britain / Pamela Church Gibson9. Women in White: Femininity and Female Desire in 1960s Bombay Cinema / Anupama Kapse10. Mago's Magic: Fashioning Sexual Indifference in Ingmar Bergman's 1960s Cinema / Louise Wallenberg11. Single Men: Sixties Aesthetics and Vintage Style in Contemporary Cinema / Nick Rees-RobertsPart 4: Epilogue12. Adriana Berselli: Costume for Cinema and Theater / Eugenia Paulicelli13. Souvenir of a Costume Designer / Adriana BerselliIndex

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Book SynopsisVeils, Turbans, and Islamic Reform in Northern Nigeria tells the story of Islamic reform from the perspective of dress, textile production, trade, and pilgrimage over the past 200 years.Trade ReviewRenne has written an exciting albeit challenging book. Readers unfamiliar with Nigeria and its complex history may feel overwhelmed at times by the sheer multitude of references to historic events and personalities. This notwithstanding, the book has a great many insights to offer to scholars of religious reform, Islamic dress and northern Nigeria. Everyone with an interest in these topics should read it. -- Hannah Hoechner * Islamic Africa *Table of ContentsAcknowledgments1. Introduction: Material Religion and Islamic Reform in Northern Nigeria 2. Islamic Dress, Textile Production, and Trade in the Time of the Sokoto Caliphate 3. Muslim Identity, Islamic Scholarship, and Cloth Connections in Ilorin 4. The Sardauna's Turbans 5. Veiling, Gender, and Fashion 6. Performing Pilgrimage: Worship and Travel, Textiles and Trade 7. Marks of Progress: Islamic Reform and Industrial Textile Production in Kaduna 8. Failures of Modernity and Islamic Reform: Dress and Deception in Northern Nigeria in the 21st Century9. Epilogue. Moral Imagination, Material Things, and Islamic Reform Glossary Bibliography Index

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Book Synopsis“A fascinating chronicle of the $55-billion-a-year global denim industry.” —David Futrelle, Los Angeles TimesTrade Review"Contains a number of surprises about the most ubiquitous of clothes. . . . Ultimately Snyder gets readers to think about the real costs of clothing, and it’s likely they won’t look at $30 or $200 jeans the same way again." -- Kathryn Masterson - Chicago Tribune"A thoughtful, ultimately hopeful look at how our choices about something as mundane as jeans can alter the lives of people 10,000 miles away." -- Fast Company

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Book SynopsisTrade Review"Refreshingly well-written and thought-provoking." Art Newspaper "Comprehensively researched, insightful reconsideration of the function of masks and masking... Highly recommended." Choice "Perceptive, gracefully written, and well-illustrated... A vivid introduction to Venetian culture." -- Peter Burke Emmanuel College, Cambridge University Journal Of Modern History

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Book SynopsisLearn how the arid climate and religious traditions have impacted casual and festive clothing in this desert country.

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Book SynopsisAn eight-volume set examining the development of costume and fashion and the social history that gave rise to it. It depicts the changing styles, processes, and trends - from the first people to wear clothes in the last Ice Age to the courtly fashion of medieval Europe to the globalization of Western style - that led us to the clothing of today.

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Book SynopsisReina Lewis analyzes Muslim modest clothing as fashion and shows how young Muslim women (with a focus on Britain, North America, and Turkey) are part of an emergent transnational youth subculture who use fashion to negotiate religion, identity, ethnicity, and mainstream consumer culture.Trade Review"Muslim Fashion is a thorough and thoughtful study of what it means to be a hijabi in a time and place where religion, politics, ethnicity, class, gender, generation and nationality meet and potentially clash. ... In treating hijab as fashion, Lewis counters the use of images of veiled women as 'evidence' that Muslims and Islam are incompatible with Western modernity and offers another, richer view of women in veils." -- Bel Jacobs"Lewis's book cheerfully celebrates the confidence of these Muslim women, Peeking into the sanctuary of their subculture and carefully documenting their experience. It is an intelligent and serious study, abstemiously refraining from inferences, criticisms or generalizations, and yet unmistakably polemical too in the quiet case it makes against the idea of an archaic Islam conventionally positioned as antithetical to modernity." -- Shahidha Bari * TLS *"Intersecting issues of religion, youth culture and class, Lewis presents a fascinating picture of what Islamic fashion looks like in Muslim minority countries such as France, the United States and the United Kingdom.... Lewis’s book is grounded in her personal experience, archival work of many years and some very rich ethnography making this a key text on Muslim fashion for many years to come." -- Rohit K Dasgupta * Clothing Cultures * "Written by a pioneering scholar of gender and Orientalism, Muslim Fashion is one of the most important recent publications in the growing field of Islamic fashion studies. Analyzing the consumption practices of practicing Muslims in Turkey and diasporic communities in Europe, the book would also be of interest for scholars of Europe and the Middle East. With its interdisciplinary approach, rigorous methodology, and elaborate theoretical framework, Muslim Fashion asks new questions about the constitution of Muslim subjectivities and the everyday experience of Islam." -- Rüstem Ertug Altinay * Europe Now *"With Muslim Fashion, Reina Lewis makes a rich and welcome contribution to a growing body of interdisciplinary scholarship that explores religiously motivated modes of dressing as evolving, complex and dynamic acts intertwining individual choice, fashion trends and conceptions of piety. . . . Ambitious in both theoretical and topical scope, Muslim Fashion deftly illuminates the multiplicity of approaches to pious dress that constitute Muslim modernities." -- Ann Marie Leshkowich * International Journal of Fashion Studies *"The book is a significant contribution to ethnic, gender, cultural, Middle East and migration studies. It will greatly benefit graduate and undergraduate college students in these fields. It is also an attractive topic to general readers who want to learn about Muslim fashion away from the dominant polarized politics about Islam and Muslims in the West." -- Enaya H. Othman * Ethnic and Racial Studies *"Through a rich ethnography of Muslim consumers, fashion professionals and media operatives – across a range of entwined religious and secular fashionscapes – Lewis shows that the liminality of a new generation of Muslims is, rather, not a type of crisis, but instead a unique source of competence and cultural capital. . . . Through this invaluable and detailed study, Lewis furthermore contributes to the growing wealth of literature that sympathetically considers the everyday practise and expression of religion through material culture. Muslim Fashion synthesises many relevant cross-disciplinary concerns and will no doubt be widely recognised as a landmark publication." -- Carl Morris * Religion, State and Society *Table of ContentsAcknowledgments ix Introduction. Veils and Sales 1 1. From Multiculture to Multifaith: Consumer Culture and the Organization of Rights and Resources 35 2. The Commercialization of Islamic Dress: Selling and Marketing Tessettür in Turkey and Beyond 69 3. Muslim Lifestyle Magazines: A New Mediascape 109 4. Taste and Distinction: The Politics of Style 163 5. Hijabi Shop Workers in Britain: Muslim Style Knowledge as Fashion Capital? 199 6. Modesty Online: Commerce and Commentary on the Net 237 7. Commodification and Community 287 Conclusion 317 Notes 323 References 331 Index 365

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Book SynopsisMinh-ha T. Pham examines the phenomenal rise and influence of elite Asian personal style superbloggers such as Susie Bubble and Bryanboy. Situating blogging within the historical context of gendered racial fashion work and global consumer capitalism, Pham analyzes how race, class, gender, and sexuality affect bloggers' work, opportunities, and rewards.Trade Review"[A] deeply engaging and sophisticated discussion of the race and gender dynamics that affect Asian fashion labor." -- Christine Wu * Japan Times *"Pham’s book is sharp, punchy and eminently readable. It is full of shrewd visual and textual analysis of the content of blogs and puts forward a muchneeded critique of the kinds of critiques that bloggers themselves tend to have launched at them. . . . I thoroughly enjoyed reading Asians Wear Clothes on the Internet, and I would recommend it to any scholar interested in blogging, social media, personal style, creative labour or race and gender politics in fashion today." -- Brent Luvaas * International Journal of Fashion Studies *"With Asians Wear Clothes on the Internet, Pham makes a significant contribution to scholarship on fashion, race, gender, and online media by eloquently demonstrating the ambivalent outcomes when Asianness becomes productive of economic and cultural value. While Asian superbloggers serve as evidence that the previously marginalized can gain entry into fashion’s highest status venues, Pham deftly shows that behind the veneer of this apparent democratization lies an unpaid or underpaid, racialized labor force." -- Ann Marie Leshkowich * Media Industries *"Asians Wear Clothes on the Internet makes an important scholarly contribution not only to the field of media and cultural studies but to ethnic, gender, and queer studies as well. In this sense, it is an excellent example of intersectional, feminist digital culture research that continues to be needed in order to better understand how the visibilities and movement of embodied identities work across digital culture." -- Jessalynn Keller * Cinema Journal *"Pham’s is one of the first of its kind in offering a critical investigation of the personal-style blogosphere.... Though the work of creating selfies and writing blog entries about clothing is often considered more within the realm of leisure than labor, Pham convincingly argues that the work of being a superblogger is highly labor intensive." -- Anita Mannur * American Quarterly *"Asians Wear Clothes on the Internet is a compelling book to read, deserving critical acclaim for its originality and insightful contribution to digital fashion media studies concerning the dynamic relations of race, gender, class, and labor. It is good for researchers who are interested in, and classes where the focus is on, fashion studies; digital media; and critical cultural analysis of race, gender, and class." -- Sara Liao * Journal of Asian Studies *"This is an ambitious project, but Pham is up to the task. Pham’s attention to the blog as both a cultural form and a commercial project is supported with textual and visual evidence garnered from blogs themselves. In doing so, she not only makes her argument, she demonstrates a model of digital analysis that is both traditional and novel at the same time. After reading this book, it will be hard to argue against the merits of 'blog studies.'” -- Erin M. Arizzi * Feminist Media Studies *Table of ContentsAcknowledgments vii Introduction. Asian Personal Style Superbloggers and the Material Conditions and Contexts of Asian Fashion Work 1 1. The Taste and Aftertaste for Asian Superbloggers 41 2. Style Stories, Written Tastes, and the Work of Self-Composure 81 3. "So Many and All the Same" (but Not Quite): Outfit Photos and the Codes of Asian Eliteness 105 4. The Racial and Gendered Job Performances of Fashion Blogger Poses 129 5. Invisible Labor and Racial Visibilities in Outfit Posts 167 Coda. All in the Eyes 193 Notes 201 Bibliography 219 Index 247

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Book SynopsisThis richly illustrated catalogue, the fourth in a series sponsored by the Andrew W. Mellon Foundation, features essays on the subject of costume and a substantial bibliography on the topic of costumes in art and an exhibition checklist.

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Book SynopsisMaterial Strategies brings together scholars from different disciplines to explore what dress and textiles can tell us about gender history. * Broad in scope -- covers women, men, social groupings and nations from the sixteenth to the twentieth century.Trade Review"This stands out as a vaulable summation of the many approaches which, in shorthand, can be described as 'the new dress history'." Valerie Cummings "This book is a significant, interdisciplinary consideration of the gendered characteristics of clothing that provides new conceptual frameworks and methodologies for the interpretation of attire across tiem and culture. Material Strategies should further move clothing and fashion scholarship out of its ghetto and into the mainstream. Textile HistoryTable of ContentsIntroduction: Material Strategies Engendered: Barbara Burman (University of Southampton) and Carole Turbin (SUNY/Empire State College). Part I: Dress, Textiles and Social Transitions in Pre-industrial Europe:. 1. Fashion, Time and the Consumption of a Renaissance Man in Germany: The Costume Book of Matthaus Schwarz of Augsburg, 1496-1564: Gabriele Mentges (University of Dortmund). 2. Reflections on Gender and Status Distinction: An Analysis of the Liturgical Textiles Recorded in Mid-Sixteenth-Century London: Maria Hayward (University of Southampton). Part II: Identity and Eroticism, Consumption and Production, from the Early Seventeenth to the Mid-Twentieth Century:. 1. Following Suit: Men, Masculinity and Gendered Practices in the Clothing Trade in Leeds, England, 1890-1940: Katrina Honeyman (University of Leeds). 2. Pocketing the Difference: Gender and Pockets in Nineteenth-Century Britain: Barbara Burman (University of Southampton). 3. Fashioning the American Man: The Arrow Collar Man, 1907-1931: Carole Turbin. 4. Erotic Modesty: (ad)dressing Female Sexuality and Propriety in Open and Closed Drawers, USA, 1800-1930: Jill Fields (California State University, Fresno). Part III: Fashion Strategies for Reconfiguring Nations and Social Groups in the Early Twentieth Century:. 1. ‘De-Humanised Females and Amzonians’: British Wartime Fashion and its Representation in Home Chat, 1914-1918: Cheryl Buckley (University of Northumbria). 2. Fashion, the Politics of Style and National Identity in Pre-Fascist and Fascist Italy: Eugenia Paulicelli (City University of New York). 3. Style and Subversion: Postwar Poses and the Neo-Edwardian Suit in Mid-Twentieth-Century Britain: Christopher Breward (London College of Fashion). 4. ‘Anti-Mini Militants Meet Modern Misses’: Urban Style, Gender and the Politics of ‘National Culture’ in 1960s Dar es Salaam, Tanzania: Andrew M. Ivaska (University of Michigan). 5. Dressing for Leadership in China: Wives and Husbands in an Age of Revolutions (1911-1976): Verity Wilson (Victoria and Albert Museum, London).

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Book SynopsisIf you just can''t decide what to wear, this enlightening guide will lead you through the diverse and sometimes contradictory aspects of fashion in a series of lively, entertaining and thoughtful essays from prominent philosophers and writers. A unique and enlightening insight into the underlying philosophy behind the power of fashion Contributions address issues in fashion from a variety of viewpoints, including aesthetics, the nature of fashion and fashionability, ethics, gender and identity politics, and design Includes a foreword by Jennifer Baumgardner, feminist author, activist and cultural critic, editor of Ms magazine (1993-7) and regular contributor to major women''s magazines including Glamour and Marie-Claire Trade Review“Summing Up: Recommended. Lower-division undergraduates through graduate students; general readers. (Choice, 1 August 2012) "All in all, this is a valuable text not just because of the marriage of the academic with the everyday, but because of the diverse issues that it touches on. It's a well-rounded effort and even the most jaded fashion person will find something new between its covers." (The Licentiate, 26 September 2011) Table of ContentsForeword ix Jennifer Baumgardner Acknowledgments xiii Introduction 1 Jessica Wolfendale and Jeanette Kennett Part 1 Being Fashionable and Being Cool 13 1 What Makes Something Fashionable? 15 Anya Farennikova and Jesse Prinz 2 Fashion, Illusion, and Alienation 31 Nick Zangwill 3 Tryhards, Fashion Victims, and Effortless Cool 37 Luke Russell Part 2 Fashion, Style, and Design 51 4 The Aesthetics of Design 53 Andy Hamilton 5 Share the Fantasy: Perfume Advertising, Fashion, and Desire 70 Cynthia A. Freeland 6 Computational Couture: From Cyborgs to Supermodels 88 Ada Brunstein Part 3 Fashion, Identity, and Freedom 103 7 Wearing Your Values on Your Sleeve 105 Daniel Yim 8 Fashion and Sexual Identity, or Why Recognition Matters 120 Samantha Brennan 9 Slaves to Fashion? 135 Lauren Ashwell and Rae Langton 10 Fashion Dolls and Feminism: How Do You Solve a Problem Like Barbie? 151 Louise Collins Part 4 Can We Be Ethical and Fashionable? 167 11 Sweatshops and Cynicism 169 Matthew F. Pierlott 12 Women Shopping and Women Sweatshopping: Individual Responsibility for Consumerism 18 Lisa Cassidy 13 A Taste for Fashion 199 Marguerite La Caze Notes on Contributors 215

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Book SynopsisFifteen scholars examine the social identities, class hierarchies, regionalisms, and other codes of communication that are exhibited or perceived in meXicana clothing styles.Trade ReviewOne of the greatest strengths of this work is its commitment to combatting a tendency toward essentialism in dress studies, particularly for what typically gets deemed 'ethnic,' 'minority,” or 'subcultural' dress, by underscoring the complex, inconsistent, and sometimes contradictory ways we may experience self and how we variously perform those intersectional identities...The chapters of meXicana Fashions demonstrate many thoughtful attempts to interrogate old and invent new terms, categories, and concepts for identification and analysis...For folklorists, dress scholars, and those interested in material culture, media, and gender studies, there is a lot to value here. * Journal of Folklore Research *[meXicana Fashions's] editors' intentions of initiating discussion, questioning, and exploration of the significance of fashion, self adornment, and the economics of self fashioning are well served by this diversity of current writings by meXicanas and women of Colour searching for social and self identity outside of the hegemonic fashion industry. This book would be an important point of reference within Mexican American studies and particularly in studies of dress and the creation of both personal and social identity. It is a useful source for complexities of dress, adornment, and the constructions and reconstructions of cultural identities. * Journal of Dress History *This book is a jewel of fashion knowledge and should be a part of every fashion library to learn how clothing can be used for personal identity and more so, a form of respect for society as a whole – a respect through ‘fashion for all’ and one always evolving within our likes and differences. Change is what makes up the ideal of fashion. * Fashion, Style & Popular Culture *[meXicana Fashions] presents the academy with an inspirational model for weaving authenticity and authority alongside the rigors of multimedium and multimethodological research. The result is an insightful and innovate book for those interested in fashion theory, cultural theory, identity politics, textile arts, Latinx/Xicana/Indigenous identity, history, art, and literature, as well as pedagogy. * New Mexico Historical Review *I have been waiting years for this book...The editors are courageous in their refusal of conformity, even at the level of citation styles, and they appear to model for us what academic diversity can look like in print…the book is a delightful and recommended read. * Chiricú Journal *Table of Contents Introduction (Aída Hurtado and Norma E. Cantú) Section I. Rendering of Self: Personal Narratives/Personal Adornment Chapter 1. Wearing Identity: Chicanas and Huipiles (Norma E. Cantú) Chapter 2. Con el huipil en la mente: The Metamorphosis of a Chicana (Josie Méndez-Negrete) Chapter 3. “Rebozos, huipiles, y ¿Qué?”: Chicana Self-Fashioning in the Academy (Micaela Díaz-Sánchez) Chapter 4. Por la facha y por el traje, se conoce al personaje: Tales about Attire as Resistance and Performativity in a Chicana’s Life Trajectory (Gabriella Gutiérrez y Muhs) Chapter 5. A Familial Legacy of meXicana Style (Domino Renee Perez) Section II. The Politics of Dress: Saying It Loud/Saying It Clear Chapter 6. Buying the Dream: Relating “Traditional” Dress to Consumer Practices within US Quinceañeras (Rachel Valentina González-Martin) Chapter 7. Visuality, Corporality, and Power (Aída Hurtado) Chapter 8. Black, Brown, and Fa(t)shionable: The Role of Fat Women of Color in the Rise of Body Positivity (Jade D. Petermon) Chapter 9. Fashioning Decolonial Optics: Days of the Dead Walking Altars and Calavera Fashion Shows in Latina/o Los Angeles (Laura Pérez) Chapter 10. “Fierce and Fearless”: Dress and Identity in Rigoberto González’s The Mariposa Club (Sonia Alejandra Rodríguez) Section III. The Politics of Entrepreneurship: Making (It)/Selling (It)) Chapter 11. Lydia Mendoza, “Reina de la Música Tejana”: Self-Stylizing Mexicanidad through China Poblana in the US-Mexico Borderlands (Marci R. McMahon) Chapter 12. (Ad)Dressing Chicana/Latina Femininities: Consumption, Labor, and the Cultural Politics of Style in Latina Fashion (Stacy I. Macías) Chapter 13. Urban Xican/x-Indigenous Fashion Show ARTivism: Experimental Ethnographies and Perform-Antics in Three Actos (Chela Sandoval, Amber Rose González, and Felicia Montes) Contributors Index

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Book SynopsisFifteen scholars examine the social identities, class hierarchies, regionalisms, and other codes of communication that are exhibited or perceived in meXicana clothing styles.Trade ReviewOne of the greatest strengths of this work is its commitment to combatting a tendency toward essentialism in dress studies, particularly for what typically gets deemed 'ethnic,' 'minority,” or 'subcultural' dress, by underscoring the complex, inconsistent, and sometimes contradictory ways we may experience self and how we variously perform those intersectional identities...The chapters of meXicana Fashions demonstrate many thoughtful attempts to interrogate old and invent new terms, categories, and concepts for identification and analysis...For folklorists, dress scholars, and those interested in material culture, media, and gender studies, there is a lot to value here. * Journal of Folklore Research *[meXicana Fashions's] editors' intentions of initiating discussion, questioning, and exploration of the significance of fashion, self adornment, and the economics of self fashioning are well served by this diversity of current writings by meXicanas and women of Colour searching for social and self identity outside of the hegemonic fashion industry. This book would be an important point of reference within Mexican American studies and particularly in studies of dress and the creation of both personal and social identity. It is a useful source for complexities of dress, adornment, and the constructions and reconstructions of cultural identities. * Journal of Dress History *This book is a jewel of fashion knowledge and should be a part of every fashion library to learn how clothing can be used for personal identity and more so, a form of respect for society as a whole – a respect through ‘fashion for all’ and one always evolving within our likes and differences. Change is what makes up the ideal of fashion. * Fashion, Style & Popular Culture *[meXicana Fashions] presents the academy with an inspirational model for weaving authenticity and authority alongside the rigors of multimedium and multimethodological research. The result is an insightful and innovate book for those interested in fashion theory, cultural theory, identity politics, textile arts, Latinx/Xicana/Indigenous identity, history, art, and literature, as well as pedagogy. * New Mexico Historical Review *I have been waiting years for this book...The editors are courageous in their refusal of conformity, even at the level of citation styles, and they appear to model for us what academic diversity can look like in print…the book is a delightful and recommended read. * Chiricú Journal *Table of Contents Introduction (Aída Hurtado and Norma E. Cantú) Section I. Rendering of Self: Personal Narratives/Personal Adornment Chapter 1. Wearing Identity: Chicanas and Huipiles (Norma E. Cantú) Chapter 2. Con el huipil en la mente: The Metamorphosis of a Chicana (Josie Méndez-Negrete) Chapter 3. “Rebozos, huipiles, y ¿Qué?”: Chicana Self-Fashioning in the Academy (Micaela Díaz-Sánchez) Chapter 4. Por la facha y por el traje, se conoce al personaje: Tales about Attire as Resistance and Performativity in a Chicana’s Life Trajectory (Gabriella Gutiérrez y Muhs) Chapter 5. A Familial Legacy of meXicana Style (Domino Renee Perez) Section II. The Politics of Dress: Saying It Loud/Saying It Clear Chapter 6. Buying the Dream: Relating “Traditional” Dress to Consumer Practices within US Quinceañeras (Rachel Valentina González-Martin) Chapter 7. Visuality, Corporality, and Power (Aída Hurtado) Chapter 8. Black, Brown, and Fa(t)shionable: The Role of Fat Women of Color in the Rise of Body Positivity (Jade D. Petermon) Chapter 9. Fashioning Decolonial Optics: Days of the Dead Walking Altars and Calavera Fashion Shows in Latina/o Los Angeles (Laura Pérez) Chapter 10. “Fierce and Fearless”: Dress and Identity in Rigoberto González’s The Mariposa Club (Sonia Alejandra Rodríguez) Section III. The Politics of Entrepreneurship: Making (It)/Selling (It)) Chapter 11. Lydia Mendoza, “Reina de la Música Tejana”: Self-Stylizing Mexicanidad through China Poblana in the US-Mexico Borderlands (Marci R. McMahon) Chapter 12. (Ad)Dressing Chicana/Latina Femininities: Consumption, Labor, and the Cultural Politics of Style in Latina Fashion (Stacy I. Macías) Chapter 13. Urban Xican/x-Indigenous Fashion Show ARTivism: Experimental Ethnographies and Perform-Antics in Three Actos (Chela Sandoval, Amber Rose González, and Felicia Montes) Contributors Index

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Book SynopsisThis collaborative ethnography of Italian-Chinese fashion ventures offers a new methodology for understanding transnational capitalism in a global era.Trade Review"Grounded in an innovative, collaborative multi-sited ethnography, this book makes a major contribution to existing literature by capturing the nature and power dynamics of transnational capitalism. . . . [Fabricating Transnational Capitalism] will be welcomed by a wide array of scholars interested in transnational capitalism, labor, kinship, fashion, China, Italy, and beyond." -- Tiantian Zheng * H-Diplo, H-Net Reviews *"This dense and fascinating book proves the relevance of the ethnographic method to analyses of the changing dynamics of transnational capitalism in recent decades." -- Véronique Pouillard * Business History Review *"This book breaths fresh air into the study of global and transnational capitalism. It represents a fine example of collaborative research and an innovative approach to multi-sited ethnography. It offers important insights into how transnational capitalism happens on the ground. This is a must-read for students and scholars of anthropological political economy." -- Jianhua Zhao * Asian Anthropology *"[This] book is much deeper and more nuanced than most comparative or multi-sited studies. The analysis is lucid, innovative, and book reviews thought provoking. The insights are vividly illustrated by interview materials that are carefully qualified and corroborated. This is book that should and will be widely read and discussed in years to come in the fields of globalization, migration, labor, economic sociology and anthropology." -- Biao Xiang * Journal of Chinese Overseas *"This book skilfully explains the dynamic nature of global capitalism and illustrates how the Chinese-Italian transnational market and resource exchanges have expanded industrial capacity. . . . I would recommend this book to a broad readership interested in these topics as well as in Chinese studies, area studies, and kinship." -- Shih-Ying Lin * China Information *"Fabricating Transnational Capitalism is remarkable not only for its convincing argument but also for its form: the book is a collaborative ethnography about capitalist transnational collaborations." -- Gerda Kuiper * Anthropology Book Forum *“Lisa Rofel and Sylvia Yanagisako have provided a creative ethnography of Italian-Chinese ventures in the global fashion industry, making a unique contribution, both conceptually and methodologically.” -- Xiaogang Wu * American Journal of Sociology *"[Rofel and Yanagisako] give detailed and nuanced insights into the processes of transnational capitalism, including privatization, the negotiation of the value of labor, and kinship." -- Hazel Clark * Journal of Asian Studies *“Drawing on the legacy of feminist critiques of public–private spheres, the authors expose how assumptions about such divisions in capitalism play out in globalized contexts. As such, they disrupt ‘an ideal type model’ and bring an understanding of capitalism as a diverse set of arrangements even in highly transnational contexts. Their comparison illuminates the role of states and private entities in structuring enterprises and reveals dynamics that shape value and accumulation as well as kinship and inequality…. The book holds particular value for scholars in globalization studies, political economy, economic sociology, and anthropology, as well as business and organization studies.” -- Elizabeth L. Krause * American Anthropologist *"Fabricating Transnational Capitalism's key contributions are substantive, theoretical and methodological.… The book is a refreshingly unique approach to anthropological studies of contemporary transnationalism.… It would be an excellent text to teach in courses in anthropology, geography, gender, women and sexuality studies, and political economy." -- Priti Ramamurthy * Asia Pacific Journal of Anthropology *Table of ContentsForeword / Robert J. Foster vii Acknowledgments xi Introduction 1 I. The Negotiation of Value 35 1. Negotiating Managerial Labor Power and Value / Lisa Rofel and Sylvia J. Yanagisako 43 II. Historical Legacies and Revisionist Histories 109 2. The (Re-)Emergence of Entrepreneurialism in Postsocialist China / Lisa Rofel 119 3. Italian Legacies of Capital and Labor / Sylvia Yanagisako 161 4. One Fashion, Two Nations: Italian-Chinese Collaborations / Simona Segre Reinach 190 III. Kinship and Transnational Capitalism 217 5. On Generation / Sylvia Yanagisako 227 6. The Reappearance and Elusiveness of Chinese Family Firms / Lisa Rofel 264 Conclusion 303 Appendix: Four Types of Collaboration between Chinese and Italian Firms 313 Notes 319 References 345 Index 363

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Book SynopsisIn this innovative collaborative ethnography of Italian-Chinese ventures in the fashion industry, Lisa Rofel and Sylvia J. Yanagisako offer a new methodology for studying transnational capitalism. Drawing on their respective linguistic and regional areas of expertise, Rofel and Yanagisako show how different historical legacies of capital, labor, nation, and kinship are crucial in the formation of global capitalism. Focusing on how Italian fashion is manufactured, distributed, and marketed by Italian-Chinese ventures and how their relationships have been complicated by China''s emergence as a market for luxury goods, the authors illuminate the often-overlooked processes that produce transnational capitalism—including privatization, negotiation of labor value, rearrangement of accumulation, reconfiguration of kinship, and outsourcing of inequality. In so doing, Fabricating Transnational Capitalism reveals the crucial role of the state and the shifting power relations beTrade Review"Grounded in an innovative, collaborative multi-sited ethnography, this book makes a major contribution to existing literature by capturing the nature and power dynamics of transnational capitalism. . . . [Fabricating Transnational Capitalism] will be welcomed by a wide array of scholars interested in transnational capitalism, labor, kinship, fashion, China, Italy, and beyond." -- Tiantian Zheng * H-Diplo, H-Net Reviews *"This dense and fascinating book proves the relevance of the ethnographic method to analyses of the changing dynamics of transnational capitalism in recent decades." -- Véronique Pouillard * Business History Review *"This book breaths fresh air into the study of global and transnational capitalism. It represents a fine example of collaborative research and an innovative approach to multi-sited ethnography. It offers important insights into how transnational capitalism happens on the ground. This is a must-read for students and scholars of anthropological political economy." -- Jianhua Zhao * Asian Anthropology *"[This] book is much deeper and more nuanced than most comparative or multi-sited studies. The analysis is lucid, innovative, and book reviews thought provoking. The insights are vividly illustrated by interview materials that are carefully qualified and corroborated. This is book that should and will be widely read and discussed in years to come in the fields of globalization, migration, labor, economic sociology and anthropology." -- Biao Xiang * Journal of Chinese Overseas *"This book skilfully explains the dynamic nature of global capitalism and illustrates how the Chinese-Italian transnational market and resource exchanges have expanded industrial capacity. . . . I would recommend this book to a broad readership interested in these topics as well as in Chinese studies, area studies, and kinship." -- Shih-Ying Lin * China Information *"Fabricating Transnational Capitalism is remarkable not only for its convincing argument but also for its form: the book is a collaborative ethnography about capitalist transnational collaborations." -- Gerda Kuiper * Anthropology Book Forum *“Lisa Rofel and Sylvia Yanagisako have provided a creative ethnography of Italian-Chinese ventures in the global fashion industry, making a unique contribution, both conceptually and methodologically.” -- Xiaogang Wu * American Journal of Sociology *"[Rofel and Yanagisako] give detailed and nuanced insights into the processes of transnational capitalism, including privatization, the negotiation of the value of labor, and kinship." -- Hazel Clark * Journal of Asian Studies *“Drawing on the legacy of feminist critiques of public–private spheres, the authors expose how assumptions about such divisions in capitalism play out in globalized contexts. As such, they disrupt ‘an ideal type model’ and bring an understanding of capitalism as a diverse set of arrangements even in highly transnational contexts. Their comparison illuminates the role of states and private entities in structuring enterprises and reveals dynamics that shape value and accumulation as well as kinship and inequality…. The book holds particular value for scholars in globalization studies, political economy, economic sociology, and anthropology, as well as business and organization studies.” -- Elizabeth L. Krause * American Anthropologist *"Fabricating Transnational Capitalism's key contributions are substantive, theoretical and methodological.… The book is a refreshingly unique approach to anthropological studies of contemporary transnationalism.… It would be an excellent text to teach in courses in anthropology, geography, gender, women and sexuality studies, and political economy." -- Priti Ramamurthy * Asia Pacific Journal of Anthropology *Table of ContentsForeword / Robert J. Foster vii Acknowledgments xi Introduction 1 I. The Negotiation of Value 35 1. Negotiating Managerial Labor Power and Value / Lisa Rofel and Sylvia J. Yanagisako 43 II. Historical Legacies and Revisionist Histories 109 2. The (Re-)Emergence of Entrepreneurialism in Postsocialist China / Lisa Rofel 119 3. Italian Legacies of Capital and Labor / Sylvia Yanagisako 161 4. One Fashion, Two Nations: Italian-Chinese Collaborations / Simona Segre Reinach 190 III. Kinship and Transnational Capitalism 217 5. On Generation / Sylvia Yanagisako 227 6. The Reappearance and Elusiveness of Chinese Family Firms / Lisa Rofel 264 Conclusion 303 Appendix: Four Types of Collaboration between Chinese and Italian Firms 313 Notes 319 References 345 Index 363

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Book SynopsisMarriage has been a contested term in African American studies. Contributors to this special issue address the subject of black marriage, broadly conceived and imaginatively considered from different vantage points. Historically, some scholars have maintained that the systematic enslavement of Africans completely undermined and effectively destroyed the institutions of heteropatriarchal marriage and family, while others have insisted that slaves found creative ways to be together, love each other, and build enduring conjugal relationships and family networks in spite of forced separations, legal prohibitions against marriage, and other hardships of the plantation system. Still others have pointed out that not all African Americans were slaves and that free black men and women formed stable marriages, fashioned strong nuclear and extended families, and established thriving black communities in antebellum cities in both the North and the South. Against the backdrop of such scholarship

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Book SynopsisMinh-Ha T. Pham examines the practice of social media users monitoring the fashion market for the appearance of fake knock-off fashion, design theft, and plagiarism, showing how it is critically important to the development of global fashion.Trade Review"Pham’s work offers a thorough look at how online behavior is shaping fashion industry actions and sheds light on the ways the current norms are failing some communities while granting protections to others." -- Sarah Bartlett Schroeder * Library Journal *Table of ContentsAcknowledgments vii Introduction. “Share This with Your Friends”: Crowdsourcing IP Regulation 1 1. Regulating Fashion IP, Regulating Difference 27 2. The Asian Fashion Copycat 53 3. How Thai Social Media Users Made Balenciaga Pay for Copying the Sampeng Bag 77 4. “Ppl Knocking Each Other off Lol”: Diet Prada’s Politics of Refusal 99 Epilogue. Why We Can't Have Nice Things 125 Notes 131 Bibliography 147 Index 165

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Book SynopsisMegan Sweeney tells an intimate story about family, selfhood, and love and loss, showing how her lifetime practice of sewing and mending clothes becomes a way of living.Table of ContentsA Note on Ornaments ix Piecing. A Prologue 1 1. Selvedge 10 2. Salvage 75 3. Redress 113 4. Threads 137 5. Mending 177 Hem. Acknowledgments 209 Notes 213 Bibliography 223 Index 231

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Book SynopsisIn 2016, social media users in Thailand called out the Paris-based luxury fashion house Balenciaga for copying the popular Thai “rainbow bag,” using Balenciaga’s hashtags to circulate memes revealing the source of the bags’ design. In Why We Can’t Have Nice Things Minh-Ha T. Pham examines the way social media users monitor the fashion market for the appearance of knockoff fashion, design theft, and plagiarism. Tracing the history of fashion antipiracy efforts back to the 1930s, she foregrounds the work of policing that has been tacitly outsourced to social media. Despite the social media concern for ethical fashion and consumption and the good intentions behind design policing, Pham shows that it has ironically deepened forms of social and market inequality, as it relies on and reinforces racist and colonial norms and ideas about what constitutes copying and what counts as creativity. These struggles over ethical fashion and intellectual property, PTrade Review"Pham’s work offers a thorough look at how online behavior is shaping fashion industry actions and sheds light on the ways the current norms are failing some communities while granting protections to others." -- Sarah Bartlett Schroeder * Library Journal *Table of ContentsAcknowledgments vii Introduction. “Share This with Your Friends”: Crowdsourcing IP Regulation 1 1. Regulating Fashion IP, Regulating Difference 27 2. The Asian Fashion Copycat 53 3. How Thai Social Media Users Made Balenciaga Pay for Copying the Sampeng Bag 77 4. “Ppl Knocking Each Other off Lol”: Diet Prada’s Politics of Refusal 99 Epilogue. Why We Can't Have Nice Things 125 Notes 131 Bibliography 147 Index 165

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Book SynopsisMegan Sweeney tells an intimate story about family, selfhood, and love and loss, showing how her lifetime practice of sewing and mending clothes becomes a way of living.Table of ContentsA Note on Ornaments ix Piecing. A Prologue 1 1. Selvedge 10 2. Salvage 75 3. Redress 113 4. Threads 137 5. Mending 177 Hem. Acknowledgments 209 Notes 213 Bibliography 223 Index 231

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Book SynopsisThe importance of fashion in the construction and representation of gender and the formation of modern society in nineteenth-century Spanish narrative is the focus of Dorota Heneghan’s Striking Their Modern Pose. The study moves beyond traditional interpretations that equate female passion for finery with symptoms of social ambition and the decline of the Spanish nation, and brings to light the manners in which nineteenth-century Spanish novelists drew attention to the connection between the complexities of fashionable female protagonists and the shifting limits of conventional womanhood to address the need to reformulate customary ideals of gender as a necessary condition for Spain to advance in the process of modernization. The project also sheds light on an area largely unexplored by previous studies: men’s pursuit of fashion. Through the analysis of the richness of sartorial subtleties in Benito Pérez Galdós’s and Emilia Pardo Bazán’s portraits of their male characters, this book brings forward these writers’ exposure of the much-denied bourgeois men’s love for self-adornment and the incoherencies and contradictions in the allegedly monolithic, stable concept of nineteenth-century Spanish masculinity. While highlighting the ways in which the art of dressing smartly provided nineteenth-century Spanish novelists with effective means to voice their critique of conventional gender order, the book also lends insight into these authors’ methods of manipulating sartorial signs to explore and to envision (as in the case of Pardo Bazán and Jacinto Octavio Picón) alternative models of masculinity and femininity. Threading through all chapters of the study is the idea propagated by all three of these writers that Spain’s full integration into modernity required not only the redefinition of the feminine role, but the reconfiguration of the masculine one as well.

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Book SynopsisA critical and nuanced look at societal perceptions of Black hair, past and present Black Hair in a White World is an in-depth study of the cultural history, perceptions, and increasing acceptance of Black hair in the broader American society. The essays in this anthology discuss representations and responses to Black hair, including analysis of research findings about marketing messages and depictions of Black hair in popular culture, discussions of workplace discrimination, and stories about the origins of the natural hair movement and how many Black people have learned to embrace and celebrate their natural hair.Beginning with a close analysis of historical and contemporary books, media, and ads, Black Hair in a White World illustrates both positive and negative responses to Black hair. In the second section, Ellington features contributions from diverse scholars and activists who argue that natural Black hair has often explicitly been––and still is––criticized by non-Blacks and Blacks who believe that the natural texture of Black hair is a problem that must be solved and believe that natural Black hair is unacceptable, unprofessional, and unattractive. Authors of the volume's final essays conclude by pushing against this narrative and describing the emergence of the natural hair movement, which has pushed for increased mainstream acceptance of Black hair.Black Hair in a White World is a groundbreaking, serious examination of perceptions of Black hair and makes an important contribution to ongoing discussions about gender, sociology, and self-expression.Trade Review"Tameka Ellington's Black Hair in a White World is a welcome addition to the canon of Black hair scholarship. Offering an accessible combination of academic research and pop culture analysis, the book provides a rigorous, yet loving examination of Black hair in multiple dimensions. From beauty culture to children's media, the essays in this collection paint a dynamic picture of a complicated topic, while challenging popular stereotypes and myths. Black Hair in a White World belongs on university bookshelves and the coffee tables of the culturally curious."—Lori L. Tharps, coauthor of Hair Story: Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America "One cannot claim to know Black women without knowing Black hair. Its history, the divisions it has created within Black communities, and how it is viewed and (un)welcomed in white spaces. Grounded in scientific research, Black Hair in a White World is an excellent tool for those who teach or conduct research on Black women."—Angela Neal-Barnett, PhD, author of Soothe Your Nerves: The Black Woman's Guide to Understanding and Overcoming Anxiety, Panic, and Fear "A collection of essays so naturally woven together, making for a raw and stunningly honest deep dive, untangling the history that is our Black hair culture. Black Hair in a White World is a call to action for society to reject white standards of beauty for all and accept Black people as they embrace their crowns in all its natural glory."—Sia Nyorkor, Emmy- and award-winning news anchor & reporter, WOIO-TV, CBS Cleveland, Ohio "Black Hair in a White World is an enlightening, extensive collection of Black female scholars that share their historical accounts, healing stories, insights, and research on the institutional hierarchy of 'texturism' in this country and around the world. Dr. Ellington has provided our community with a historical platform and the eternal standards for the Black community to continue to embrace and truly rejoice in the experience of their textured hair journey." —Diane C. Bailey, beauty entrepreneur, advocate, author, global ambassador, and master stylist.

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Book Synopsis"Luxury Fashion and Culture" focuses on the study of how humans use high quality, highly pleasurable, and frequently rare products, services, and experiences to distinguish to themselves and others who they are as well as whom they are not - both within and across cultures. Luxury fashion enables the individual to transform herself - to play a part in scenes exuding refinement, acceptance, high status, and good taste and risk ridicule by playing the part badly. The chapters provide new theory, recipes of methods, and findings on how culture helps humans manage and respond to luxury fashion enactments. Rather than focusing on traditional cultural transformations, it focuses on personal expressions of self and archetypal role-playing and fulfilment through the power of luxury fashion. This volume: applies the perspectives of Veblen, Goffman, McCracken, Thompson, and Belk to provide a theoretical foundation to explain why and how humans buy and enact luxury fashion products, services, and experiences; includes confirmatory personal introspections of explanations of luxury fashion enactments with self-photographs and self-interpretations of the enactments to explain how individuals enact luxury fashion and respond to alternative fashion-marketing designs; and is unique in conjoining sociology, psychology, marketing, and economics to advance fashion marketing theory and research.Table of ContentsList of Contributors. Preface. Luxury Fashion Theory, Culture, and Brand Marketing Strategy. Creating and Interpreting Visual Storytelling Art in Extending Thematic Apperception Tests and Jung's Method of Interpreting Dreams. Fashion's Roles in Presentation of Self in Everyday Life. Is Blending into Society a Primary Consumer Goal for Dressing Down?. Cinderella Storytelling in 21st Century: Interpreting Popular Culture in the Movies via Visual Narrative Arts. Who Says what-to-wear? Examining Tensions between Conformity and Individuality. Understanding Archetypes of Luxury Brands by Using VNA. Subject Index. Luxury Fashion and Culture. Advances in culture, tourism and hospitality research. Advances in culture, tourism and hospitality research. Copyright page.

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Book SynopsisThis book addresses the evidence for the widespread belief that enjoyment of fashion is necessarily inconsistent with feminist values, from a feminist (as opposed to a post-feminist) point of view. It begins by establishing that many feminists in fact hold this belief and argues that disagreeing does not mean claiming that feminism was unnecessary or that it is now rendered redundant by changing social mores. The author describes the historical background as applied to both men's and women's clothing in various cultures, including close reading of the function of clothes in the novels of the Bronte sisters, Thackeray and Dickens, through to the use of fashion as a call to arms for the early feminists, as well as later theorists like Susan Sontag and Naomi Wolf. Issues of personal freedom and political correctness, the claims that fashion makes women sex objects for men, and the charge that the subject is too trivial to merit serious discussion, are all challenged. Allegations of links between fashion and pornography are explored, and the disagreements between feminists on this topic set out. Finally, the issue of dressing for special occasions and whether this practice has a place in the modern world is addressed with candour. Is Fashion a Woman's Right? re-establishes the relationship between fashion and feminist values.

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Book SynopsisThis book explores the ways in which dress has been influential in the political agendas and self-representations of politicians in a variety of regimes from democratic to authoritarian. Arguing that dress is part of 'hard core' politics, it shows how dress has been crucial to the constructions of nationhood and national identities in both Asia and the Americas. Since dress has been a marker of identity and status, chapters engage with the gendering of the politics of dress, discussing how women have become bearers and wearers of 'national tradition' and how men and women's dress reflect their political positions in the nation-state. It examines the magical power of cloth, the meanings of batik and design, the holy status of uncut cloth versus cut cloth, and the quaint combination of non-Western with Western attire. This collection of pioneering essays fills a vacuum in the largely Eurocentric field of dress studies, demanding that attention be paid to Asia and the Americas as major sites of vestimentary creativity.Trade Review"A truly fascinating and original collection of essays. By discussing the reciprocal relationship between dress and political identity and action, the authors in this book provide a fresh and very insightful entry into analyses of the every-changing relation between power and gender. The instances which are described are taken from all around the Pacific rim, thus providing important elements for comparison, both within the wider region itself and through the rest of the world. Those of us who work on other parts of the world can only be jealous." -- Robert Ross, Professor of African History, Leiden UniversityTable of ContentsTransnational Flows & the Politics of Dress in Asia & the Americas; Gender, Nation & the Politics of Dress in Twentieth-Century Philippines; Dressing for Power: Scholars' Robes, School Uniforms & Military Attire in China; Refashioning Civilisation: Dress & Bodily Practice in Thai Nation-Building; Gender, Citizenship & Dress in Modernising Japan; Identity, Nation & Islam: A Dialogue about Men's & Women's Dress in Indonesia; "Dressed in a Little Brief Authority": Clothing the Body Politic in Burma; Power Dressing on the Prairies: The Grammar of Blackfoot Leadership Dress, 1750-1930; Nationalism & National Dress in Spanish America; Refashioning the Inca: Costume, Political Power & Identity in Late Bourbon Peru; Wigs, Weapons, Tattoos & Shoes: Getting Dressed in Colonial Amazonia & Brazil; Fabricating Specimen Citizens: Nation Building in Nineteenth-Century Mexico; Urban Expressions of Solidarity: Fashioning Citizenship in Argentina; Index.

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Book SynopsisThe clothing and ornament of Greek women signalled much about the status and the morality assigned to them. Yet this revealing aspect of women's history has been little studied. In this collection of new studies by an international team, ancient visual evidence from vase-painting and sculpture is used extensively alongside Greek literature to reconstruct how women of the Greek world were perceived, and also, in important ways, how they lived.Trade ReviewThe essays, though concise, are mostly of high quality, opening up the field of 'Greek dress in social and cultural context', a field with enormous potential, and no shortage of material. Indeed this is one of the more substantial and original recent volumes on Greek women and their (self-)representation tout court. The papers of Blundell and Ogden, in particular, deserve to become mainstays of student bibliographies. -- James Davidson * Journal of Hellenistic Studies *Table of ContentsIntroduction 1. Constraints and Contradictions: Whiteness and Femininity in Ancient Greece - Bridget M. Thomas 2. The Graces and Colour Weaving - Beate Wagner-Hasel 3. Transvestism or Travesty? Dance, Dress and Gender in Greek Vase-Painting - Tyler Jo Smith 4. The 'Language' of Female Hunting Outfit in Ancient Greece - Eva Parisinou 5. The Meaning of the Veil in Ancient Greek Culture - Douglas L. Cairns 6. Investing the Barbarian? The Dress of Amazons in Athenian Art - Ruth Veness 7. Levels of Concealment: The Dress of Hetairai and Pornai in Greek Texts - Andrew Dalby 8. Visions of Gleaming Textiles and a Clay Core: Textiles, Greek Women, and Pandora - Judith Lynn Sebesta 9. Clutching at Clothes - Sue Blundell 10. A Woman's View? Dress, Eroticism, and the Ideal Female Body in Athenian Art - Lloyd Llewellyn-Jones 11. Controlling Women's Dress: Gynaikonomoi - Daniel Ogden 12. Clothes as Sign: The Case of the Large and Small Herculaneum Women - Glenys Davies 13. 'Dedicated Followers of Fashion': John Chrysostom on Female Dress - Aideen M. Hartney Index

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