Cultural studies: dress and society Books
MOHAI Seattle Style
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£26.59
British Library Publishing The Whole Art of Dress
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£13.64
James Clarke & Co Ltd Maskwork The Background Making and Use of Masks
Book SynopsisA practical study of the art of masks and mask-making, combined with an exploration of their cultural and anthropological history.Table of ContentsPrologue Acknowledgements of Photographs Introduction What are Masks? Masks as resources Planning a Project Project 1: First steps Project 2: Shape-Masks Project 3: Changing Faces Project 4: Symmetry & Collage Project 5: Theatre, Mask & Myth Project 6: Character & Commedia Project 7: Gods, Dragons & Demons Project 8: Masquerade Epilogue Notes Bibliography Index
£41.00
Peterson's Guides,U.S. Fashion Design Drawing Course Principles Practice
Book Synopsis
£21.27
Schiffer Publishing Ltd High Fashion Hats 19501980
Book SynopsisPretty flowers, expert styling, and flattering designs characterize some of the features that define high fashion hats of the 1950s to 1980s. This comprehensive book combines over 700 color photographs with carefully researched facts about historical events, hairstyles, and hat designers in each decade. See the hats Christian Dior, Sally Victor, Mr. John, Halston, Oleg Cassini, Adolfo, Oscar de la Renta, and others designed for their exclusive and general clientele. An extensive millinery glossary is very useful and period photographs of women in the neighborhood proudly wearing their best hats are delightful today. Fashion collectors will drool at the images and current designers will love the inspiration. Hats are becoming again an important fashion accessory.
£23.79
MP - University Of Minnesota Press Accessorizing the Body
Book SynopsisWhat the smallest detail of dress reveals about gender, sexuality, race, politics, and aesthetics.Table of ContentsPreface and Acknowledgments Clothing, Dress, Fashion: An Arcade Introduction: Accessorizing the Modern(ist) Body, by Cristina Giorcelli 1. No Frills, No-Body, Nobody, by Manuela Fraire 2. The Cult of Femininity, Micol Fontana, conversing with Cristina Giorcelli 3. Fashion’s Model Bodies: A Genealogy, by Paola Colaiacomo 4. Wearing the Body over the Dress: Sonia Delaunay’s Fashionable Clothes, by Cristina Giorcelli 5. Futurist Accessories, by Franca Zoccoli 6. Coco, Zelda, Sara, Daisy, and Nicole: Accessories for New Ways of Being a Woman, by Martha Banta 7. Precious Objects: Laura Riding, Her Tiara, and the Petrarchan Muse, by Becky Peterson 8. Spanish Women’s Clothing during the Long Postwar Period (1937-1950), by Giuliana Di Febo 9. The Yellow Star Accessorized: Ironic Discourse in Fatelessness by Imre Kertész, by Zsófia Bán 10. Terra Divisa/Terra Divina (T/E/A/R), by Maria Damon 11. Black Hattitude, by Jeffrey C. Stewart 12. Barbara Stanwyck’s Anklet: The Other Shoe, by Paula Rabinowitz 13. Fetishizing the Goods in the Cinematic Jewel, by Vito Zagarrio 14. Enchanted Sandals: Italian Shoes and the Post-World War II International Scene, by Vittoria C. Caratozzolo Conclusion: In Closing/Close Clothing, by Paula Rabinowitz Contributors
£26.59
MP - University Of Minnesota Press Exchanging Clothes Habits of Being II
Book SynopsisHow garments—signaling and altering identity—circulate through culture and the economyTable of ContentsContentsPreface and AcknowledgmentsClothing, Dress, Fashion: An ArcadeIntroduction. Walking the Walk: Circulation and ExchangePaula Rabinowitz1. Accessory QuestionsLaura Montani2. Krizia and AccessoriesMariuccia Mandelli3. The Dress of Thought: Clothing and Nudity in Homer, Virgil, Dante, and AriostoAnne Hollander4. Orbits of Power: Rings in James Merrill’s PoetryAndrea Mariani5. Sheer Luxury: Kate Chopin’s “A Pair of Silk Stockings”Cristina Giorcelli6. Traveling Light: Nellie Bly’s All-Inclusive BagCristina Scatamacchia7. Like Their First Pair of High Heel Shoes: Continental Accessories and Audrey Hepburn’s Cinematic Coming of AgeAlisia Grace Chase8. Word-Processed for You by a Professional SeamstressKaren Reimer 9. Slips of the Tongue: Lesbian Pulp Fiction as How-to-Dress ManualsPaula Rabinowitz10. A Safety Pin for Elizabeth: Hard-Edge Accessorizing from Punk Subculture to High FashionVittoria C. Caratozzolo11. A Knot to Untie: Social Power, Fetishism, and Communication in the Social History of the TieNello Barile12. Ornaments and Feminine Clothing Tradition in Algeria; or the Identity QuestChafika Dib-Marouf13. It Is a Garage Sale at Savers Every Day: An Ethnography of the Savers Thrift Department Store in MinneapolisKatalin MedvedevCoda: Speaking Out and Speaking Up: The Circulating Power of FashionCristina GiorcelliContributors
£30.27
Bloomsbury Publishing PLC The Hidden Life of Clothing
Book SynopsisTrade ReviewThe social, cultural and physical entanglement of attire with status, aspiration and livelihood is vividly articulated in this rich discourse. Drawing on the work of great poets and writers including Clare and Hardy, the reader is drawn into a reflection on the relational aspects of being human in a more than human world. * Dilys Williams, Centre for Sustainable Fashion, UK *Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Introduction 1. The Hidden Language of Clothing Nursery Rhymes, Fabric and Clothing Rhymes about Clothing and Class Rhymes with an Advisory or Cautionary (Clothing) Theme Rhymes about Clothing Poverty 2. From Democratisation to Fast Fashion Technological Change and the Cotton Industry Developments in the Making and Retailing of Ready-made Clothing Adoption of the Sewing Machine Retailing Revolution (I) The Democratisation of Shoe Production Retailing Revolution (II) Democratising Colour 3. Sustainability and Clothing in Context The Emergence of Fashion The Road to Fast Fashion The Backlash Against Fast Fashion The Fabric of Fashion Conundrum Transparency on the Label The Use of Fur and Feathers 4. The Human Factor: Clothing, Growth and Alternative Economic Paradigms ‘Sweating’ and the Fight for a Minimum Wage The Move to Outsourcing The ’Economics’ of Fast Fashion 5. Clothing, Nature and the Environment Clothing in Pastoral Narratives Nature Fights Back Nature and the Arts and Crafts Movement 6. Philosophies of Dress Oscar Wilde: The Philosophy of Dress Mary Eliza Haweis; The Art of Dress Eric Gill: Clothes Conclusion Bibliography Index
£79.01
Bloomsbury Publishing PLC The Fashion Show Goes Live
Book SynopsisRebecca Halliday is Assistant Teaching Professor and Professional Communication Adviser in the Department of English at the University of Victoria, Canada. Previously, she taught at Toronto Metropolitan University in its School of Professional Communication and School of Fashion.Trade ReviewIn The Fashion Show Goes Live, Rebecca Halliday convincingly interrogates the nature of the fashion show in the age of social media. Drawing on the concept of mediatization, she traces the different forces at play in the making of shows, paying attention to the dynamics of bodies, artefacts and technologies. The book is a pleasure to read, and is a vibrant and engaging contribution to studies of the fashion media and fashion communication. * Agnès Rocamora, London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London, UK *Halliday’s brilliant analysis of the fashion show is a theoretically bracing, methods spanning, highly readable analysis that gorgeously fills a gap in fashion, media, and cultural studies’ scholarship. A must-read, incisive guide to negotiating fashion’s multifaceted rendering by today’s media worlds. * Elizabeth Wissinger, City University of New York, USA *This is a timely and significant contribution to the analysis of fashion shows. Halliday’s comprehensive analysis, and beautifully written account, covers the many aspects and functions of the fashion show, providing scholars and students with a definitive account of the continued importance of such events within the field of fashion. An essential read that belongs on all fashion reading lists. * Joanne Entwistle, King's College London, UK *Rebecca Halliday's contribution offers a comprehensive and insightful view on the origin, evolution and role of fashion shows within the cultural industry of fashion. Key issues such as mediatization and the impact of Covid-19 are also discussed. This is definitely a must-have book for fashion scholars. * Marco Pedroni, University of Ferrara, Italy *Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Acknowledgments Introduction The Function of Fashion Weeks Economies of Fashion, and Fashion as Cultural Field Economies of Mediatization and Performance economies of affect Fashion Shows in Tension with Fashion Films Organizational Structure 1. The Fashion Show and/as Theatre 100% Lost Cotton, Opening Ceremony Spring/Summer 2015 Historical Confluences Between Fashion and Theatre 100 Years Later: 100% Lost Cotton at New York Fashion Week Conclusion 2. The Fashion Show as Immersive Simulation Fashion as Immersive Simulation Chanel Supermarket Fashion Show, Fall/Winter 2014 Kanye West - Yeezy Season 3, Fall/Winter 2016 Conclusion 3. Fashion Show Footage: From Newsreel to Live Stream Internet Spectatorship and ‘Real Time’ Fashion Shows on Film Fashion on Television Fashion-Themed Television in Film Fashion Shows in Television Series (or Fashion Television) Fashion Shows and/as Sporting Events Fashion in the Live Stream The Handheld Live Stream The Handheld Front Row Perspective as Moving Image Conclusion 4. Social Media Fashion Shows: Interactive and Exclusive Fashion Shows as Pleasurable Interaction Burberry and Topshop—Digital Competitors Burberry – Digital Interaction in the Luxury Market Burberry Prorsum, Autumn/Winter 2015 – #TweetCam Topshop – Ready-to-Wear Takes to the High Street Topshop Unique, Autumn/Winter 2015 - #livetrends Conclusion 5. Manufactured Affect in the Fashion Show Preshow (Re)Mediation as Increased Brand Access Topshop Unique Autumn/Winter 2015 Live Stream Preshow Affective Labour/Mediation of Affect at the Topshop Preshow Textual Reactions to the Topshop Preshow Conclusion 6. ‘This is the runway’: the Camera as Scriptive Thing at New York Fashion Week The Camera as Scriptive Thing or Scriptive Prop Indoor Audience-Performer Relations Outdoor Observations at New York Fashion Week Camera Interactions on the ‘Street’ Models ‘Off Duty’ at Fashion Week Street Style Photography as Embodied Practice Street Style Photography as Cultural Practice The Photograph as Dance The Photograph as Action Sequence Conclusion 7. the Fashion Show as Mediatized Proliferation Fashion Shows as Photographic ‘Moments’ Versace Spring/Summer 2018 and Spring/Summer 2020 as Late-Postmodern Mediatization The Fashion Show as Spectacular Entertainment Givenchy Spring/Summer 2016 Ready-to-Wear in New York Tommy Hilfiger’s ‘See Now Buy Now’ Spectaculars Conclusion Conclusion: Fashion’s Pandemic-Era Pause References
£90.00
Bloomsbury Publishing PLC Male Idols and Branding in Chinese Luxury
Book SynopsisTrade ReviewA much-needed contribution to the field. This insightful text breaks down the complex relationship between fashion consumers and idols and is a valuable guide for anyone interested in understanding more about branding and marketing in China. * Babette Radclyffe-Thomas, London College of Fashion, UK *Table of ContentsList of Illustrations List of Tables List of Contributors Preface: “Are you that unicorn?” Amanda Sikarskie, University of Michigan, USA Acknowledgements Some Notes on Pronunciation 1. Introductions: Peacocks: A Primer on Idols and Marketing in China Amanda Sikarskie, University of Michigan, USA 2. Exploring the Relationship Between Fashion Brands, Culture Idols and Fans: The Power of Naming as Market Strategy Peng Liu, Macau University of Science and Technology, and Lan Lan, Beijing Fashion Institute of Technology, China 3. Idol Case Study: Wang Yibo, Aloof White Peony of Luoyang Amanda Sikarskie, University of Michigan, USA 4. Capitalizing Yaoi / Danmei Fans: Fashion Brands and Male Popular Culture Idols as Brand Ambassadors in the Chinese Fashion Market Peng Liu, Macau University of Science and Technology, and Lan Lan, Beijing Fashion Institute of Technology, China 5. A Comparative Perspective: Korean K-Pop Idols as Brand Ambassadors Amanda Sikarskie, University of Michigan, USA Epilogue: Xinjiang Cotton Amanda Sikarskie, University of Michigan, USA Post-script: China Bans Xiao Xian Rou Amanda Sikarskie, University of Michigan, USA Glossary Index
£99.51
Bloomsbury Publishing PLC The Modern Venus
Book SynopsisTrade ReviewMeticulously researched and methodologically innovative, The Modern Venus reveals how underwear and accessories shaped not just women's bodies, but their engagement with the world. This sumptuous book is a must read for anyone interested in 18th-century material, literary and visual culture. * Jennie Batchelor, University of York, UK *A seriously interesting fashion history book on late 18th-century underwear and accessories, based on first-rate research. Great images, highly readable and intelligently planned and written. * Lou Taylor, University of Brighton, UK *Table of ContentsList of Figures Acknowledgements List of Abbreviations Introduction: Fashioning the Modern Venus 1. Head First: Brimmed Hats and Calashes on the Tides of Fashion 2. ‘Let Us Examine Their Tails’: The Material and Satirical Lifecycles of Cork Rumps and Bums 3. By Hand: Silk and Fur Muffs 4. Tight Lacing: The Motifs and Materiality of Stays Conclusion: ‘The Fickle Goddess’ Bibliography Index
£100.51
Bloomsbury Publishing PLC Ethics in the Fashion Industry
Book SynopsisLearn how to make ethical decisions on a daily basis. This second edition of Ethics in the Fashion Industry continues to document the relationships between functions in the fashion industry and the people who make these functions happen. Covering topics such as corporate social responsibility, social media, social compliance audits, diversity, and human rights, this book empowers students who will soon become fashion professionals to make good decisions. Whether debating issues like factory conditions, fair wages, fast fashions, or designer knock-offs, shoplifting, and controversial advertising, Ethics in the Fashion Industry gives you the tools to do the right thing. New to this Edition: Box Features: In each chapter you will find three key boxes that call your attention to current ethical practices. Ethics in the Industry highlights relevant industry practices relating to ethics; Ethics in the News analyzes recen
£68.40
Penguin Putnam Inc Save the Date: The Occasional Mortifications of a
Book SynopsisAn “engaging and disarmingly honest” (People) examination of the search for love and the meaning of marriage in a time of anxiety, independence, and indecision.Weddings. They’re fun, festive, and joyful, and at a time when people marry later in life—and sometimes not at all—they offer endless opportunities to reexamine love and what we want for ourselves, regardless of whether or not our aim is a walk down the aisle. In Save the Date, Jen Doll charts the course of her own perennial wedding guesthood, from the ceremony of distant family members when she was eight to the recent nuptials of a new boyfriend’s friends.There’s the first trip home for a childhood pal’s big day, in which she learns that her first love has eloped to Hawaii. There’s the destination wedding attended with little baggage beyond a suitcase of strappy sandals and summery party dresses. Regrettably, there is a series of celebrations that mean the end to a valued friendship. There’s also the wedding that offers all the promise of new love.Wedding experiences come in as varied an assortment as the gowns at any bridal shop, and Doll turns a keen eye to each, delivering a heartfelt exploration of contemporary relationships. Funny, honest, and affecting, Save the Date is a fresh and spirited look at the many ways in which we connect to one another.
£14.40
Bloomsbury Publishing Plc Indigo: In Search of the Color That Seduced the
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£16.14
Laurence King Publishing Flats: Technical Drawing for Fashion, Second
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£33.25
Octopus Publishing Group Dress Like a Parisian
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£20.86
Intellect Books Fashion, Women and Power: The Politics of Dress
Book SynopsisThis book addresses the relationships between fashion, women and power. One of the constants within the book is to question the enduring relationship between women and dress and how these inform and articulate the ways in which women remain represented as either suitable or not for public office and their behaviour is informed through dress when they are in power. The book critiques the interplays between politics, power, class, race and expectation in relation to the everyday practice of getting dress and the more performative and symbolic function of dress as embodiment. As never before, women are in positions of political power, and find themselves facing the maelstroms of mass media regarding their fashion, their deportment, and their right to govern. The contributors offer a wide set of perspectives on women and their roles, and their fashions when taking up powerful positions in Australia, New Zealand, United Kingdom and the United States. From the United Kingdom, the historical issues surrounding the movement towards ‘rational dress’ for women seeking their rights to vote and exercise are interrogated. The volume also explores viewpoints from East Asia, such as the constricting role for ‘common’ women upon entering the Imperial family in Japan. From the United States come the troublesome media stories engulfing two significant American Democratic First Ladies, Hillary Rodham Clinton and Michelle Obama. From New Zealand, the media reports on Prime Minister Jacinda Ardern upon her motherhood while serving in the office and on her clothing during the 2019 Christchurch massacre comprise a much-needed contribution to the literature on women, politics and dress. Further, the role of dress in politics broadly as a form of resistance, will be examined in Australia from recent skirmishes over ‘appropriate dress’ with ex-prime minister Julia Gillard and other Australian female politicians. The role of women and what their fashion selections mean continues via considerable debate during worldwide events. Finally, the theme of resistance and social media continues with an examination of protest dressing in the recent street battles in Hong Kong to how young Asian women have been influenced by the social media campaigns to encourage wearing the veil in Indonesia, to Asian women negotiating femininity in political dress. Primary readership will be among researchers, scholars, educators and students in the fields of fashion, dress studies, women and gender studies and media and history. It will be of particular value as at graduate level and as a supplementary resource. There may be some general appeal to those with an interest in the women or cultures at the centre of the discussions.Trade Review'The anthology grew out of a 2018 seminar on the politics of dress held at the University of Adelaide, South Australia, and almost all of the contributors are Australian. The ‘down under’ perspective, which looks to Asia as well as to the West, is refreshing. [...] This anthology contains many compelling glimpses of the ways the media has treated female politicians and the way individual women have found to negotiate their fashion choices. [...] A valuable work. Theoretical perspectives are offered, the case studies are informative and several of the essays offer frameworks for looking at fashion in political context. While readers will have to do their own synthesis, the composite look at the impact of the media is both important and instructive. Similarly, the composite bibliography – found in the introduction and the separate essays – is extensive and will prove helpful to future scholars.' -- Beverly Gordon, Fashion, Style & Popular CultureTable of ContentsOverview Denise N. Rall Section I: Theoretical Approaches to Women in Leadership and Political Fashion Denise N. Rall with Jo Turney Case Studies I: Gender, Politics & Identity: Lessons from Past and Present Chapter 1. Rational Dress ‘As an Expression of the Fin-de-Siecle Aspiration Towards Equality of the Sexes’ Madeleine Seys Chapter 2. Jacinda Ardern, New Zealand Premier: Fashion and performing gender Sarah Baker Chapter 3. An Empress’s Wardrobe Unlock’d: Empress Masako and Japan’s Princess Fashions Emerald L. King and Megan Rose Case Studies II. Making Politics through Fashion Chapter 4. Women Politicians, Fashion, and the Media in Australia from Enid Lyons to Julia Gillard Amanda Laugesen Chapter 5. Dressing up two Democratic First Ladies: Hillary Clinton and Michelle Obama Denise N. Rall, Jo Coghlan, Lisa J. Hackett and Annita Boyd Chapter 6. Codes of Power: Transforming the Dress and Appearance of female Asian politicians Jennifer Craik and Anne Peirson-Smith Case Studies III. Women and Power: Social Media, Politics and Resistance Chapter 7. Leopard in Kitten Heels: The politics of Theresa May’s sartorial choices Rachel Evans Chapter 8. Felix Siauw: Storyteller, Preacher and Profiteer: Fashioning a New Brand of Islam in Indonesia Rheinhard Sirait Chapter 9. All Dressed in Black: decoding the gendered liminal appearance of protest in Hong Kong Anne Peirson-Smith and Jennifer Craik
£20.90
Intellect Books Fashion Knowledge: Theories, Methods, Practices
Book SynopsisThis new edited collection assembles academic essays and intellectual activism equally next to visual essays and artistic interventions and proposes a different concept for fashion research that eschews the traditional logic of academic fashion studies. It features acclaimed designers, artists, curators and theorists whose work investigates the multi-faceted debates on the rise of practice-based research in fashion. The book sets out to explore current issues in fashion research with a particular focus on both methodology and expansion of the field to encompass overlooked voices and narratives. It has a particular concern with the relationships between theory and practice and with how knowledge is created and disseminated in fashion studies. It is an excellent and really valuable contribution to the field at a point both when fashion studies is expanding and when the fashion industry is at a crucial point of change. Some of the contributions were originally presented at a symposium hosted by the Austrian Center for Fashion Research ‘TALKSHOW: The politics of practice-based fashion research’ at Vienna’s Museum of Applied Arts, curated by Wally Salner. The symposium brought together a group of fashion scholars, designers, educators and practitioners to explore critical contemporary fashion (research) practices, and to investigate critical fashion knowledge between theory and practice, beyond assumed disciplinary and epistemological boundaries. Many contributions in this volume were initially presented at that symposium, while others are testimonies of international debates that were part of the research activities of the Austrian Center for Fashion Research, a research project funded by the Austrian Federal Ministry of Science Research and Economy, led by Elke Gaugele. The book is structured into three sections: Fashion Knowledge, Practice-Based Fashion Research, and Sites of Fashion and Politics. Contributions look at new forms of fashion knowledge that are forming with and along shifting fashion practices, practice-based fashion research, and sheds light on different sites and entanglements of fashion and politics in distinctive contemporary and historical moments of de/colonization, anti/racism, and anti/globalization. Elke Gaugele is cultural anthropologist and professor of fashion, styles and contextual design at the Academy of Fine Arts in Vienna, Austria. Monica Titton is a sociologist, fashion theorist and senior scientist at the fashion design department of the University of Applied Arts Vienna, Austria. Other contributions are from Elke Bippus, Astrid Engl, Jojo Gronostay, Ruby Hoette, Bianca Koczan, Priska Morger, NCCFN, Wally Salner, Andreas Spiegl, José Teunissen, Lara Torres, Carol Tulloch and Maria Ziegelböck Readers will be academics, practitioners, designers, artists, curators, museums, theoretical scholars, lecturers, practice-based researchers, students and practitioners at all levels in the fields of fashion, textile, art and design. This new book with its original focus on practice-based research will be useful for a general and academic readership alike, and to all those working within the field of fashion studies, including those with a theoretical focus, fashion practitioners and those working within innovative pockets of the fashion industry. Trade Review'Fashion Knowledge offers a variety of thought-provoking methods and practices for critical interrogations. Two of the high points of the volume address decolonization: the first thinking through historical research and the second with a distinctly contemporary bend. [...] Gaugele, Titton and their contributors demonstrate that research methods are helpful to challenge existing ways of knowing and can be used to questioning historic structures and developing more equitable practices. [...] This is a thoughtful collection and critical intervention into research methods that is much needed. Gaugele and Titton should be lauded for pulling together these diverse voices, perspectives and efforts at decolonizing and democratizing fashion research. This volume is a welcomed step forward in the growing area of fashion studies and certainly has the potential to shift contemporary critical practices.' -- Myles Ethan Lascity, Fashion, Style & Popular CultureTable of ContentsIntroduction: The Politics of Fashion Knowledge between Practice and Theory 1 Elke Gaugele and Monica Titton PART I: FASHION KNOWLEDGE 13 1. The Transformative Power of Practice-Based Fashion Research 15 José Teunissen 2. Theory as Practice: Notes on the Sociology of a Practice-Based Fashion Theory 27 Monica Titton 3. Ornamental Politics and Assembled Textures of Artistic Research: The Project kotomisi: un-inform by knowbotiq 36 Elke Bippus 4. Fashion Ontology: Researching the Possibilities for Knowing through an Expanded Fashion Practice 53 Lara Torres 5. DISCOURSE, Cruise 2020 70 Maria Ziegelböck PART II: REFLECTIONS ON FASHION AS PRACTICE 79 6. Notes on Fashion Practice as Research: Episodes of Conversation Pieces 81 Ruby Hoette 7. Work with the Existing: Be Realistic 91 NCCFN 8. The Empress’s New Clothes, or How One Makes Fashion (or Doesn’t) 96 Wally Salner (translated by Travis Lehtonen) 9. Skin Host and Heavenly Visitor 106 Priska Morger (Prof. PriskAMORger) PART III: SITES OF FASHION AND POLITICS 111 10. T-shirt Matters 113 Carol Tulloch 11. DEAD WHITE MEN’S CLOTHES 136 Jojo Gronostay with an introduction by Elke Gaugele 12. Fashion Politics: Dressing Segregation and Distinction 143 Andreas Spiegl 13. Early- Modern Fashion Knowledge and the Western Politics of Science 150 Elke Gaugele Notes on Contributors 163
£97.59
Intellect Books Heavy Metal Armour: A Visual Study of Battle
Book SynopsisThe first of its kind – original, unique and beautifully illustrated by the author. Engagingly written, it will appeal to fans and academics alike. A lavishly illustrated study of the heavy metal battle jacket in a historical and cultural context, with a unique approach to analysis and interrogation of form and style through painting practice and theory. Since the 1970s, customized denim 'battle jackets' have been worn by heavy metal fans to signify their devotion to the music and subcultures of metal. Embellished by the wearers with patches, badges and studs, these jackets are works of art that communicate the values of metal to the world at large. This book features a series of detailed paintings that visually document examples of jackets alongside photographic portraits of the fans that wear them. The accompanying chapters describe the significance of battle jackets in metal scenes and trace a lineage of customized clothing starting in the Middle Ages. Connections are made with a wide range of historic and contemporary artworks, suggesting a broad context within which to more fully appreciate the significance of the jackets. The methodology spans a range of disciplines from art theory to ethnography and subcultural studies, and the discussion is informed by responses from a series of interviews conducted over the years with metal fans. The book has a highly original focus and the author’s approach to the subject is unique. It reaches across a range of fields: the history and cultural context of heavy metal music, style and dress; art history and practice, particularly painting; subcultural studies; fashion and dress; music graphics, branding and marketing. Tom Cardwell is an artist and researcher specialising in contemporary painting, customized clothing and heavy metal subcultures. He is senior lecturer in painting at Camberwell, University of the Arts London. It will appeal to readers with an interest in metal subcultures; fashion, style and dress; music branding and identity; contemporary art theory and practice. The writing style and content is relaxed, engaging and will be of interest to a wider casual readership with an interest in popular culture and the arts. A useful resource for academics and students interested in heavy metal, customized clothing/DIY subcultures, painting and visual arts. Could appeal to undergraduate as well as postgraduates and scholars in these fields, and a broader interest in visual culture.Table of ContentsList of Illustrations vii Acknowledgements xiii Foreword xv Mark Titchner Introduction 1 1. The Importance of Battle Jackets within Metal Subcultures 15 Watercolour Paintings and Jacket Works 2. Global Battle Jacket Cultures 49 3. ‘Somewhere Back in Time’, or a Speculative History of the Battle Jacket 59 4. Examining Patches: A Heritage of Images 89 Oil Paintings and Fan Portraits 5. Setting Trends or Selling Out? Battle Jacket Appropriation in Wider Culture 105 Conclusion: ‘See My Vest!’ 125 Appendix: Notes on the Paintings 133 Endnotes 151 References 153 Index 171
£41.05
Missouri Historical Society Press Little Black Dress: From Mourning to Night
Book Synopsis“Entertaining reading.”—Wall Street Journal What’s the most important garment in a woman’s closet? More often than not, the answer is “the little black dress.” For decades, fashion magazines have touted the LBD as the perfect solution to almost every fashion crisis. Dressed up or down, with flats or heels, statement jewelry or a subdued jacket, the little black dress can be worn anywhere, for any occasion. Where did the little black dress come from? And how did black become the color of choice for every occasion? In Little Black Dress, Shannon Meyer answers these questions by offering a visual history of the black dress, illustrating its transformation from a traditional mourning garment to the fashion staple it is today. Beginning with the Victorian era, Meyer describes how widows were required to wear plain black clothing with no decoration for one year and a day, as a symbol of full mourning. This gave way to concepts such as “ordinary” and “half” mourning that allowed for different fabrics and embellishments. Then, in the early twentieth century, women began to slowly adopt black into their everyday wardrobe, and, in the 1920s, Coco Chanel launched her revolutionary first line of black dresses, advertising them as versatile, affordable, and fashionable choices for women. As Meyer shows, other designers quickly followed suit, and black has since prevailed as a universal, ever appropriate, always fashionable choice. Richly illustrated with seventy-five full-color photos of dresses and accessories spanning 150 years, and including information about the designer, original owner, and historical context for each, readers will find Little Black Dress a stylish guide to this wardrobe essential. Designed to accompany an exhibit by the same name at the Missouri History Museum, the book will impress historians and fashionistas alike.
£25.17
University of Alaska Press Alaska Eskimo Footwear
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£45.00
Dietrich Reimer Die Verkorperung Der Welt: Asthetik, Raum Und
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£64.60
