Apparel, garment and textile industries Books

Book SynopsisIn 1751, John Holker (1719-1786), an English textile manufacturer exiled in France, undertook an industrial espionage mission to England to collect samples of English textiles on behalf of the French king, Louis XV. On his return, the samples were assembled in a manuscript volume, which is now preserved at the Museum of Decorative Arts in Paris. Each sample in this album is accompanied by a handwritten technical description specifying the quality of the fabric, its price, its dimensions and the manufacturing processes. This album is famous for preserving the oldest identifiable samples of jean fabric. Completely bilingual, the book includes a facsimile reproduction of the album, accompanied by a transcription of its handwritten text and a dozen essays. The essays, written by academics, curators and specialists from France, Britain, and North America, explore the album from various angles: the globalisation of commerce, the slave trade, industrial espionage, economic rivalry between France and England, the taste for cotton and its role in the history of fashion, etc. The book demonstrates the importance of centuries-old links between France and the United Kingdom and is an indispensable work of reference for the history of textiles. Text in English and French. Table of ContentsESSAYS John Holker and the making of the Livre d’échantillons. By Ariane Fennetaux & John Styles The Holker album and Lancashire cotton textiles. By John Styles John Holker, an entrepreneur at Rouen. By Serge Chassagne John Holker as inspector of manufactures. By Philippe Minard The chemistry of colours circa 1750. By Liliane Hilaire-Pérez John Holker, technical innovation and the hot cylinder press. By Philip A. Sykas The Holker album in a global context. By Giorgio Riello Chintz, cambric, and a counterfeit silk handkerchief: printed textiles in the Holker album. By John Styles Deep blue, fiery red, and apricot yellow: colour, imperial markets and the global textile trade. By Beverly Lemire And cotton became fashionable. By Denis Bruna The English origin of jeans. By Pascale Gorguet Ballesteros FACSIMILE OF THE HOLKER ALBUM APPENDICES Translation of the transcription Technical analysis Glossary Bibliography Index List of illustrations

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Book SynopsisA new "farm-to-closet" vision for the clothes we wear--by a leader in the movement for local textile economies There is a major disconnect between what we wear and our knowledge of its impact on land, air, water, labor, and human health. Even those who value access to safe, local, nutritious food have largely overlooked the production of fiber, dyes, and the chemistry that forms the backbone of modern textile production. While humans are 100 percent reliant on their second skin, it’s common to think little about the biological and human cultural context from which our clothing derives. Almost a decade ago, weaver and natural dyer Rebecca Burgess developed a project focused on wearing clothing made from fiber grown, woven, and sewn within her bioregion of North Central California. As she began to network with ranchers, farmers, and artisans, she discovered that even in her home community there was ample raw material being grown to support a new regional textile economy with deep roots in climate change prevention and soil restoration. A vision for the future came into focus, combining right livelihoods and a textile system based on economic justice and soil carbon enhancing practices. Burgess saw that we could create viable supply chains of clothing that could become the new standard in a world looking to solve the climate crisis. In Fibershed readers will learn how natural plant dyes and fibers such as wool, cotton, hemp, and flax can be grown and processed as part of a scalable, restorative agricultural system. They will also learn about milling and other technical systems needed to make regional textile production possible. Fibershed is a resource for fiber farmers, ranchers, contract grazers, weavers, knitters, slow-fashion entrepreneurs, soil activists, and conscious consumers who want to join or create their own fibershed and topple outdated and toxic systems of exploitation..Trade Review“Collectively, we’ve been slowly waking up to the urgent need to farm our food in ways that restore and regenerate soils and whole landscapes; create connections between people, land, animals, and seasons; and rebuild local economies. Fibershed turns our attention to a parallel, equally urgent frontier: our clothes. We need this book, and we need it now.”—Nicolette Hahn Niman, author of Defending Beef“Fibershed is a must-read for all clothing brands, whether years into their sustainability journey or just at the beginning. Burgess encourages us to think deeply and holistically about the impacts of fashion, reconsider our industry’s model of overconsumption, and to approach flashy biotech solutions with a critical eye. Fibershed proves that fashion can be a force for good, empowering farmers and makers while supporting local communities with Climate Beneficial textile supply chains.”—Megan Meiklejohn, Sustainable Materials and Transparency Manager, Eileen Fisher“Fibershed is a deeply informed exploration of the political ecology of clothing and an urgent invitation to a new way of being in the world; one that respects the soil, the cycles of the year, and life itself. In this visionary manifesto of hope, Rebecca Burgess chronicles a personal journey with profound global implications: Human economies need not result in the degradation of either human culture nor the environment, but might, if done well, lead to the enrichment of both.”—Jeffrey Creque, PhD, Director of Rangeland and Agroecosystem Management, Carbon Cycle Institute“This is an important book. It is bold, practical, optimistic––a vision of how things must be.”—Kate Fletcher, professor, Centre for Sustainable Fashion, University of the Arts, London, UK“Rebecca has made an incredible contribution to the slow fashion movement through her organizing and advocacy work with the Fibershed organization. I’m thrilled to know that this work is now available to a broader audience through this thoughtful book. May we all learn from her wisdom, research, and knowledge as we create even deeper connections between farms, fiber art, and fashion.”—Katrina Rodabaugh, author of Mending Matters“We clothe ourselves using fibers from cotton, trees, animals, and oil. The sins of oil-based fibers are well known, but lesser known are those of plant- and animal-based fiber production—themselves major contributors to global desertification and climate change. If we want to offer hope to future generations, we will have to root not only the food we eat, but the clothing we wear in a new, regenerative agriculture that manages livestock using the holistic planned grazing process. Fortunately, movement in this direction is underway. Rebecca Burgess’s well-researched book stokes a fire that has already been lit by many organizations collaborating and networking around the globe, and connects the dots between our clothing and our life-supporting environment. I would encourage everyone who wears clothes and has any concern for future generations to read this highly educational book.”—Allan Savory, president and cofounder, Savory Institute“Rebecca Burgess is the Alice Waters of the slow fiber movement. Within the pages of Fibershed, she proves that carefully clothing oneself is a revolutionary act. While many wait for distant corporations and governments to curb toxic, unethical, and extractive industrial practices, Burgess demonstrates that the revolution is at hand in our own backyards. Fibershed is required reading for any clothing company that claims environmental and ethical responsibility.”—Dan Malloy, surfing ambassador, Patagonia; cofounder, Poco Farm, Ojai, CA“Fibershed is a story of vision, persistence, and kindness. With patience and grace, Rebecca has restored a sense of gratitude for the overlooked grasses and herbaceous plants that were once our second skin. From the living world around her, she has stitched together the broken strands of textile arts, creating an economy of place where makers are artists and clothing is revered.”—Paul Hawken, author of Blessed Unrest; editor of Drawdown

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Book SynopsisRaising wild silk meets social and environmental challenges facing the textile industryΓÇöthe second-largest global polluterΓÇöhead-on by providing a sustainable occupation that maintains social bonds and a connection with the land.

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Book Synopsis''This riveting behind-the-scenes story of the clothes on our backs is a must-read for clotheshorses everywhere'' Harper''s Bazaar ''Extraordinary . . . fascinating . . . a wonderful way into history, quite often through the voices of people who don''t have a say in history'' Cerys MatthewsLinen, Cotton, Silk, Synthetics, Wool: through the stories of these five fabrics, Sofi Thanhauser illuminates the world we inhabit in a startling new way, travelling from China to Cumbria to reveal the craft, labour and industry that create the clothes we wear. From the women who transformed stalks of flax into linen to clothe their families in nineteenth century New England to those who earn their dowries in the cotton-spinning factories of South India today, this book traces the origins of garment-making through time and around the world. Exploring the social, economic and environmental impact of our most personal possessions, Worn looks beyond care labels to show how clothes reveal the truth about what we really care about.''A must-read . . . combines remarkable research with heartfelt care'' Clare HunterTrade ReviewFascinating . . . a good yarn . . . the joy of this history of clothing, which is eminently readable and meticulously researched, is its focus on people -- Paula Byrne * The Times *This riveting behind-the-scenes story of the clothes on our backs is a must-read for clotheshorses everywhere * Harper's Bazaar *A terrific book especially for those who want to be informed about sustainable clothing. Knowing the history is fascinating. -- Alexandra SchulmanRichly evocative . . . One of the great pleasures of this panoramic history of getting dressed is Sofi Thanhauser's ability to spot moments like these where human desire and material culture collide -- Kathryn Hughes * Guardian *Knowledgeable, fascinating . . . explores the complex systems woven between the producers of cloth and its consumers . . . bulges at the seams with finely spun descriptions of the places and people she encounters -- Kassia St Clair * Economist *The story of what we wear is the story of who we are, and Worn offers a riveting, provocative, and eye-opening account. One cannot make sense of our modern world without this book -- Brian Christian * Author of The Most Human Human *Expansive . . . elegantly chronicling how textile production came to be defined by worker exploitation, misogyny, environmental devastation, and colonialism . . . Yet she also finds space to appreciate sartorial marvels and to celebrate the loom aficionados, "denimheads," and "wool enthusiasts" who aim for a more ethical, analog future * New Yorker *Extraordinary . . . fascinating . . . a wonderful way into history, quite often through the voices of people who don't have a say in history -- Cerys MatthewsA masterpiece of investigative reporting and a riveting adventure story, Worn is both panoramic and richly particular. Thanhauser is the best of guides: humane, engaging, generous with historical anecdote and always able to reveal the telling detail. She shows how the cost of fashion far exceeds any retail price tag, and how the revival of venerable traditions might yet lead us to a sustainable future -- Geraldine Brooks * author of The Secret Chord *An incredibly well-reported account of how fashion, far from being trivial, has shaped human history -- Pippa Bailey * New Statesman *This is a must-read book for anyone interested in textiles. In it Sofi Thanhauser tracks the ingenuity, creativity and human cost of textile production across centuries and cultures in a book which combines remarkable research with heartfelt care -- Clare Hunter * author of Threads of Life *Captivating and deeply researched . . . Thanhauser unearths the secret life of fabrics with skill and precision. Readers won't look at their wardrobes the same way again * Publishers Weekly *A fascinating read, laying out how our increasingly careless use and discarding of clothing has come to damage our planet. Thanhauser has carried out a remarkable mass of research on clothes and the fibers they are made from. She has stitched it all together in a clear and engaging style that invites one to keep reading and to start mending our ways -- Elizabeth Wayland Barber * author of Women’s Work: The First 20,000 Years *Original, insightful and thought provoking . . . a delight to read such rich insights into the weaving and knitting together of industries, societies, political initiatives and economies of cloth that truly demonstrates humans activities -- Dilys Williams * Director of the Centre for Sustainable Fashion *Sofi Thanhauser's history of cloth is not just about clothing: it is about ethics, workers' rights, women's progress, climate justice. It is the about the fabric of who we are. And as told in Worn, it also makes an absolutely gripping read! -- Peggy Orenstein * author of Girls & Sex and Boys & Sex *Admirable concision and formidable scholarship . . . Now and then in the life of a book reviewer, a book comes along that makes you glad to be one . . . Worn falls plumb into this category -- Nicola Schulman * Oldie *Thanhauser's geographical reach is impressive . . . as is the rigour of her examinations of the cultural, economic, political and environmental impacts -- Lucy Scholes * Telegraph *

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Book SynopsisTurn your passion and inspiration into a must-have bag collection and launch your own successful brand.Handbag design is more than just a creative pursuitit's also a business. This book is a practical guide to developing your design skills alongside the vital business know-how you''ll need to avoid costly mistakes. Ann Saunders leads you through the whole process from initial concepts through to sampling, manufacturing, marketing, and retail. You'll learn how to navigate the challenges of sourcing materials, finding a manufacturer, creating a bespoke brand, developing a sales strategy, and growing your business.Throughout the book Ann''s former students, who have established their own successful brands, share their real-world insights into the challenges of becoming a designer/entrepreneur in today's highly competitive accessories market. With more than 150 images, charts and illustrations, Design, Manufacture and Sell Your Bag Collection includes detailed advice on:The Trade ReviewAnn Saunders has written an all-inclusive guide for anyone wanting to enter the handbag industry. From first idea to finished product, readers are directed with an expert hand, making this the ideal manual for aspiring designers * Julia Poteat, Professor of Fashion, Parsons School of Fashion, USA *Design, Manufacture and Sell your Bag, is the ultimate accessories book! A comprehensive guide that will transform you into a bag designer, taking you from conception through to realisation, marketing and sales * Jennifer Prendergast, Programme Leader, School of Design and Creative Arts, Loughborough University, UK *Table of ContentsIntroduction 1. The Creative Process 2. Researching Your Brief 3. Knowing Your Customer 4. Designing Your Bag 5. The Critical Path 6. Materials 7. Hardware 8. Understanding Bag Construction 9. Completing Your Design 10. Planning Your Range 11. Sampling 12. The Manufacturing Process 13. Branding 14. Marketing 15. Business Planning 16. Sustaining Your Business Afterword History timeline

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Book SynopsisInviting you to rethink who you are, what you value, and what you want from life, this title shows how to reinvent yourself and create your own brand, and investigates what it means to live in this world as a tuned in, caring individual with a passion for making a difference.Trade Review"Kelly fans will love it." -- OK! magazine "Normal Gets You Nowhere is bursting with her trademark punk-rock spiritual fierce philosophy and indispensable advice for anyone starting out in the world, new grads, dreamers and those who might just need a dose of Kelly to push them forward." -- ashadedviewonfashion.com

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Book SynopsisFirst volume in new series dedicated to medieval clothing and textiles, drawing from a range of disciplines and with a special focus on reconstruction and re-enactment. The study of medieval clothing and textiles has aroused great attention in recent years, as part of the growing concern in material culture as a whole; apart from its own intrinsic interest, it has much to reveal about life at thetime. This exciting new series aims to offer all those interested in the subject the fruits of the best research in the area. Interdisciplinary in approach, it will feature work from the fields of social and economic history, history of techniques and technology, art history, archaeology, literary and non-literary texts, and language, while experimental reconstruction of medieval techniques or artifacts will also form a particular focus. The contents of each volume are selected to cover a broad geographical scope, as well as a range of periods from early medieval to the late Middle Ages. The journal also publishes short reviews of new books. Topics in this first volume include Anglo-Saxon embroidery; textiles and textile imagery in the Exeter Book; the tippet; the regulation of clerical dress; and evidence for dress and textiles in late medieval English wills. ROBIN NETHERTON is a costumehistorian. Her research focuses on Western European clothing between the twelfth and fifteenth centuries. GALE R. OWEN-CROCKER is Professor of Anglo-Saxon Culture, University of Manchester. She has a special interest in dress throughout the medieval period - she advises on dress entries to the Toronto Old English Dictionary and has consulted for many museums and television companies.Table of ContentsStitches in Time: Establishing a History of Anglo-Saxon Embroidery - Elizabeth Coatsworth Textiles and Textile Imagery in the Exeter Book - Maren Clegg Hyer Pomp, Piety, and Keeping the Woman in her Place: The Dress of Cnut and Ælfgifu-Emma - Gale R. Owen-Crocker Wrapped in a Blue Mantle: Fashions for Icelandic Slayers? - Sandra Ballif Straubhaar The Orientation of Strikers in Medieval Fulling Mills: The Role of the `French' Gualchiera - John Muendel Bad Habits: Clothing and Textile References in the Register of Eudes Rigaud, Archbishop of Rouen - Susan Carroll-Clark Forbidden Colors in the Regulation of Clerical Dress from the Fourth Lateran Council (1215) to the time of Nicholas of Cusa (d. 1464)(d. 1464) - Thomas M. Izbicki The Tippet: Accessory after the Fact? - Robin Netherton Threads Bared: Dress and Textiles in Late Medieval English Wills - Kristen M. Burkholder Giovanna Cenami's Veil: A Neglected Detail - Carla Tilghman

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Book SynopsisAll over the world, people get dressed, mostly for the same reasons. Why, then, do we look so different from each other? The answers lie in the constellations of factors that contribute to the human condition, from climate to conformity, gender expression to race and ethnicity.Beginning with the body as the organizing principle around which to study dress, this 50th anniversary edition of The Visible Self makes sense of humans as biological, social, and aesthetic creatures based on cross-disciplinary concepts and examples. It explores the daily act of dress in cultures around the world, using the word dress to describe the wide variety of behaviors connected to the act of adorning our bodiesor notthrough the use of clothing, modifications, and/or supplements. Political economies are addressed holistically to understand the global world through contemporary topics such as racism and how dress can be used to sustain or rebel against dominant structures. With current examples and rTable of ContentsPreface Acknowledgments Part I: Body, Dress, and Culture Chapter 1 The Body Chapter 2 The Classification System for Dress Chapter 3 Dress, Culture, and Society Part II: Political Economies and Dress Chapter 4 Political Economies and Dress Chapter 5 Fashion, The Body, and Culture Part III: Art, Aesthetics, and Dress Chapter 6 The Art of Creating Dress Chapter 7 Standards, Ideals, and the Art of Dress Chapter 8 Conformity and Individuality in Dress Chapter 9 Dress and the Arts Chapter 10 One World of Dress Appendix Bibliography Credits for Figures Index

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Book SynopsisNordic Baby Crochet includes easy to follow crochet patterns to create beautiful baby clothes and accessories without the need for arduous assembly. Nordic Baby Crochet features 35 patterns for adorable clothing and accessories for babies. With accessible step-by-step guides, the patterns are suitable for experienced crocheters as well as for those just starting with crochet. Here are patterns for cardigans, dresses, bibs, blankets, hats and more. All projects are assembly-free and achieve a modern Scandinavian look with simple patterns and elegant colours of your choosing. Crochet has a somewhat unfair reputation for being uncomfortable and tight. However, Charlotte Kofoed Westh, with her individual crochet technique, smart choice of patterns and the right yarn ensures that the pieces in this book are snug, elastic and comfortable. This is crochet in a whole new way, a far cry from the rigid designs that many associate with crochet.Trade Review‘The surest way to create the best and most adorable projects for the little ones in your life … This book will give you all the inspiration you could possibly want.’ Crochet Now ‘Baby crochet patterns can sometimes veer towards the twee or old fashioned, but for those who love to dress their little ones in simple and stylish clothes and accessories, this is the book for you. Nordic Baby Crochet is packed with timeless, practical and contemporary designs perfect to make for your own little ones or to give as gifts.’ Inside Crochet

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Book SynopsisThe book analyses the determinants of domestic demand of the textiles and challenges the general perception that the growth of the industry was primarily driven by an expansion in exports of textile products. It argues that structural changes such as inter-fibre and inter-sectoral shifts and capacity expansion involving modernization have contributed to decline in quantity as well as quality of employment generated by the industry.

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Book SynopsisTrade Review"Shoddy is that rare book that takes you from the direct experiences you share with the author (what to do with your used clothes? the feeling of 'doing good' when you donate them to clothe someone 'less fortunate') to the larger social, economic, historical, and yes, moral universe in which those experiences live. Shell brings gives us this kind of journey by searching for shoddy. Through her we learn about the human costs of the industrial revolution, learn about British Chartism, the economic realities of the American Civil War, learn about the ideas that animated dissent--Carlyle, Disraeli, and Marx, just for a start, and so much more, all through the eyes of shoddy. It is an exemplary book in its use of the visual record to weave a narrative that implicates current practice, not just in how we do scholarship across a range of fields in media and science and technology studies, but how we think about ourselves. Shoddy is a book that will change your mind." --Sherry Turkle, author of Reclaiming Conversation: The Power of Talk in a Digital AgeTable of ContentsPrologue: Finding Shoddy Old Clothes Odyssey The Heap Act I: Devil’s Dust Emergence of an Industry Narratives of Transmutation, Myths of Invention Devil’s Dust Politics Material Philosophy and the Shredded Self Shoddy as Paradox and Marx’s “Excrements of Consumption” Act II: Textile Skin The Wear of War Textile Skin and “the Sinews of War” Shoddy and the Body Politic Photography and the “Harvest of Death” On Shrouds and Shoddy Act III: Lively Things Miasma and Contagion Consolidation of Clothes and Corpses Disinfection and Its Discontents The Intimate Materiality of the Unknowable Liveliness and Formlessness Epilogue: Shoddy Renaissance Acknowledgments Notes Works Cited Index

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Book SynopsisA study of the ladies' garment industry in northeastern Pennsylvania between 1945 and 1995, featuring sixteen selected oral histories conducted with workers, shop owners, and others with knowledge of the industry.Trade Review“A detailed yet readable study of the lives of the garment industry. This is a fine social history of ordinary people that brings the past to life.”—Richard A. Greenwald,author of The Triangle Fire, the Protocols of Peace, and Industrial Democracy in Progressive Era New York“An important contribution to US labor history and twentieth-century US history. The interviews offer nuanced views and multiple perspectives on labor struggles in the region, offering particularly new and valuable views of the influence of geography on industrial development and the growth of the trade union movement and showing why we need a broad view to understand even local industrial history.”—Thomas Dublin,author of The Face of Decline: The Pennsylvania Anthracite Region in the Twentieth Century“Taking the measure, Wolensky has produced a valuable and informative work. It will serve as an important primary source, giving insights into not only the Wyoming Valley but also eastern Pennsylvania, its economy, its people, and the mores of the era it covers.”—Richard P. Mulcahy Pennsylvania HistoryTable of ContentsList of IllustrationsPrefaceAcknowledgmentsList of AbbreviationsIntroduction: Northeastern Pennsylvania and the Garment Industry1. Dorothy “Dot” Ney: Garment Worker, Union Organizer, and Business Agent2. William “Bill” Cherkes: Garment Shop Owner and Garment Association President3. Minnie “Min” Matheson: Labor Leader, Social Activist, and ILGWU District Director4. Angelo “Rusty” “Bill” DePasquale: Mineworker and ILGWU Organizer and “Enforcer”5. Anthony “Tony” D’Angelo: Garment Presser and Barber6. Alice Reca: Garment Worker, Union Organizer, and Business Agent7. John “Johnny” Justin: Garment Worker, Labor Organizer, and ILGWU District Director8. Clementine “Clem” Lyons: Garment Worker, Business Agent, and Chorus Performer and DirectorImage Gallery9. Helen Weiss: Garment Worker, Business Agent, and Chorus Performer10. George and Lucy Zorgo: Union Printers and Labor Advocates11. Philomena “Minnie” Caputo: Garment Worker, Union Activist, Chairlady, and Floorlady12. Dr. Albert Schiowitz: Physician and Director of the Wyoming Valley ILGWU Health Center13. Leo Gutstein: Family Garment Shop Owner and Garment Association President14. Pearl Novak: Garment Worker, Union Organizer, and Social Activist 15. Betty Greenberg: Mother, Spouse, Activist, and the Mathesons’Daughter16. Labor, Working-Class, Gender, and Oral HistoryAppendix 1: The Wyoming Valley Oral HistoriesAppendix 2: Glossary of Selected TermsAppendix 3: Biographical SketchesNotesBibliographyIndex

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Book SynopsisA study of the ladies’ garment industry in northeastern Pennsylvania between 1945 and 1995, featuring sixteen selected oral histories conducted with workers, shop owners, and others with knowledge of the industry.Trade Review“A detailed yet readable study of the lives of the garment industry. This is a fine social history of ordinary people that brings the past to life.”—Richard A. Greenwald,author of The Triangle Fire, the Protocols of Peace, and Industrial Democracy in Progressive Era New York“An important contribution to US labor history and twentieth-century US history. The interviews offer nuanced views and multiple perspectives on labor struggles in the region, offering particularly new and valuable views of the influence of geography on industrial development and the growth of the trade union movement and showing why we need a broad view to understand even local industrial history.”—Thomas Dublin,author of The Face of Decline: The Pennsylvania Anthracite Region in the Twentieth Century“Taking the measure, Wolensky has produced a valuable and informative work. It will serve as an important primary source, giving insights into not only the Wyoming Valley but also eastern Pennsylvania, its economy, its people, and the mores of the era it covers.”—Richard P. Mulcahy Pennsylvania HistoryTable of ContentsList of IllustrationsPrefaceAcknowledgmentsList of AbbreviationsIntroduction: Northeastern Pennsylvania and the Garment Industry1. Dorothy “Dot” Ney: Garment Worker, Union Organizer, and Business Agent2. William “Bill” Cherkes: Garment Shop Owner and Garment Association President3. Minnie “Min” Matheson: Labor Leader, Social Activist, and ILGWU District Director4. Angelo “Rusty” “Bill” DePasquale: Mineworker and ILGWU Organizer and “Enforcer”5. Anthony “Tony” D’Angelo: Garment Presser and Barber6. Alice Reca: Garment Worker, Union Organizer, and Business Agent7. John “Johnny” Justin: Garment Worker, Labor Organizer, and ILGWU District Director8. Clementine “Clem” Lyons: Garment Worker, Business Agent, and Chorus Performer and DirectorImage Gallery9. Helen Weiss: Garment Worker, Business Agent, and Chorus Performer10. George and Lucy Zorgo: Union Printers and Labor Advocates11. Philomena “Minnie” Caputo: Garment Worker, Union Activist, Chairlady, and Floorlady12. Dr. Albert Schiowitz: Physician and Director of the Wyoming Valley ILGWU Health Center13. Leo Gutstein: Family Garment Shop Owner and Garment Association President14. Pearl Novak: Garment Worker, Union Organizer, and Social Activist 15. Betty Greenberg: Mother, Spouse, Activist, and the Mathesons’Daughter16. Labor, Working-Class, Gender, and Oral HistoryAppendix 1: The Wyoming Valley Oral HistoriesAppendix 2: Glossary of Selected TermsAppendix 3: Biographical SketchesNotesBibliographyIndex

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Book SynopsisThis book presents a systematic study on methods used for the creation of weave patterns for simple structures. Firstly, it explains known techniques for designing new weave patterns classified as patterns merge, motifs, patterns insertion and change of the displacement number. These are discussed as possibilities to create different textures and weaving effects supported by figures of patterns, colour view, and fabric appearance simulation. Secondly, it explains original methods for design of new weave patterns based on Boolean operations, musical scores, written texts and braille alphabet, including transformations performed, advantages/disadvantages, possible applications and designs.Table of ContentsPart 1 Classical Methods for Design of New Weave Patterns. 1. Brief history of weave patterns. 2. Elementary weaves. 3. Derivatives of the elementary weaves. 4. New weave patterns based on patterns merge. 5. New weave patterns based on motifs. 6. New weave patterns based on patterns insertion. 7. New weave patterns based on change of the displacement number. Part 2 New Methods for Design of New Weave Patterns. 8. New weave patterns based on Boolean operations. 9. New weave patterns based on musical scores. 10. New weave patterns based on text interpretations. 11. New weave patterns based on the Braille alphabet.

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Book Synopsis

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Book Synopsis

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Book Synopsis

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Book SynopsisConsiders the textiles made, traded, and exchanged across Eurasia from late antiquity to the late Middle Ages with special attention to the socio-political and cultural aspects of this universal medium. It presents a wide range of textiles used in both domestic and religious settings, as dress and furnishings, and for elite and ordinary owners.Table of Contents1. Introduction; 2. Materials and Techniques; 3. Industry; 4. Trade; 5. Dress; 6. Furnishing Textiles; 7. Imported Textiles in European Church Treasuries; 8. Aesthetics; Appendix: Selection of Online Databases of Textile Holdings and Research.

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Book SynopsisThis Element analyses a fundamentally new regional configuration of the garment sector, covering much of South America. Based on ethnographic fieldwork and in-depth interviews with a wide range of actors, it examines two major circuits of informal production and distribution of affordable garments, both of which have emerged around the urban marketplaces of La Salada (Buenos Aires) and Feira da Madrugada (São Paulo). This Element examines a configuration characterized by (1) manufacturers who interact with customer preferences to produce low-cost fashion, (2) marketplaces that function as large garment distribution hubs, and (3) extensive distribution routes with regional reach. This Element discusses the role of creativity in informal production processes, reflects on the implications of both cases for our understanding of global value chains and informality, and provides empirical evidence on forbearance as an explanatory element for the emergence of this phenomenon.

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Book SynopsisFast fashion is an industrial trend that refers to the concept of shortening lead time (production, distribution) and offering new products to the market as fast as possible. Despite an abundance of research results, there is no comprehensive reference source that covers the state-of-the-art findings on both theoretical modeling and empirical research on fast fashion systems. This edited volume consists of three sections - review and exploratory studies, analytical models, and empirical research made up of many interesting contributions in the respective domain. The result is a well-balanced handbook which includes both theoretical results (from various perspectives) and empirical findings.This volume will be of interest not only to those involved in the fashion industry, but also to academics and practitioners in the wider fields of business, manufacturing engineering, systems engineering and supply chain management.Table of ContentsPART I: Introduction, review and exploratory discussions 1. Fast fashion systems – An introduction; 2. The slow fashion process: Rethinking strategy for fast fashion retailers; 3. Examining global retailing’s innovators: An overview of fast fashion supply chain research; 4. Fast fashion retailing: RFID deployment for enhancing customer value proposition; PART II: Analytical modelling research on fast fashion systems 5. Flexible procurement models for fast fashion retailers; 6. Coordination of a fast fashion supply chain with profit-loss sharing contract; PART III: Empirical research on fast fashion systems 7. Investigating on-shelf availability in the UK retail clothing sector; 8. A cross regional analysis on fashion quick response programs; 9. Service quality strategy for fast fashion: An empirical study in Hong Kong

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Book SynopsisA visual goldmine for designers of original print, weave and embellishment, Sourcing Ideas for Textile Design will help you generate new ideas, develop them methodically and finally create beautifully designed textiles. The carefully selected range of images illustrate how to use visual information in this process from a variety of sources, breaking down the process into key themes colour, surface, structure, texture and pattern. This second edition includes: case studies and interviews with insight into visual research and development from revered practising designers, including Dries Van Noten and Reiko Sudo; Spotlight sections offer historical or cultural perspectives on each point in the process; and, new coverage of material investigation, colour analysis, presentation and curation, as well as advice on IP and copyright. You'll also be guided through the three stages of textile design where you will: generate your idea; work to Trade ReviewEmbraces craft and technology and real-world insights from innovative and world-leading practitioners. This is an essential reference and a compelling read. * Anne Smith, Professor Emerita, Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London, UK *Provides a unique insight into a broad range of successful textile practitioners, while systematically walking the reader through the design process. It serves as both an inspirational and instructional tool for exploring possibilities. * J.R. Campbell, Executive Director, Design Innovation Initiative, Kent State University, USA *Table of ContentsIntroduction 1. What is Textile Design? 2. The Textile Design Process 3. Develop through Material Investigation 4. Colour 5. Creating Textile Outcomes Conclusion Glossary Bibliography

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Book SynopsisIn this essential introduction to contemporary printed textile design, designer and educator Alex Russell explores creative and commercial studio practice, including:- developing sophisticated skills with image and colour- how to make effective use of context in your work- strategies for a career in designYou'll learn how history and technology shape print design, plus how to balance innovation with industry requirements, including fashion, home interiors, giftware and stationery. There's practical advice on developing a professional portfolio, and how good communication skills can get your work noticed. This updated edition includes expanded sections on digital design and social media, and their impact on portfolio development, manufacturing, and promotion, as well as advice on establishing an ethical, sustainable practice for the future.Table of Contents1. An Overview of Printed Textile Design History The Digital Revolution Environmental and Ethical Issues Professional Contexts 2. The Creative Design Process The Brief Research, Development and Final Designs Colour Design Composition 3. Technology, Tools and Professional Practice Printing Technologies and Design Design Tools, Space and Process Professional Practice 4. Designing for the World Design and Industry Design and Global Issues Design and Communication 5. Design Style and Content Design Categories Colourways and Co-Ordinates Balancing Tradition and Innovation 6. Working as a Designer Building Collections Building Portfolios Building a Career Bibliography Glossary Acknowledgements

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Book SynopsisZero Waste Fashion Design combines practical examples, flat patterns and more than 20 exercises to help you incorporate this sustainable technique into your portfolio. There are also beautifully illustrated interviews with innovative designers, including Richard Lindgvist, Mary Beth Bentaha and Daniel Desanto to show how sustainable practice continues to evolve within industry.Industry pioneers, Timo Rissanen and Holly McQuillan, offer flexible strategies and easy-to-master zero waste techniques to help you develop your own cutting-edge fashion designs. This updated edition includes new content on integrating 3D design into a zero waste process, additional coverage of the historical context of zero waste around the world, and expands on the related technique of subtraction cutting to make this the ultimate practical guide to sustainable fashion design.Table of ContentsPreface 1. Zero Waste Fashion Design from History to Now Zero Waste over Time Modern Zero Waste Fashion Design Interview with Lela Jacobs Zero Waste Fashion Design in Research Interview with Maja Stabel Short Cuts 2. Pattern Cutting as a Fashion Design Tool Fashion Design and Pattern Cutting Creative Pattern Cutting Interview with Winifred Aldrich Interview with Rickard Lindqvist Creative Pattern Cutters From Around the World Patterns in Design Ideation Short Cuts 3. Zero Waste Fashion Design: The Basics Criteria for Zero Waste Fashion Design The Design Ideation Toolbox Zero Waste Design Methods Square Cut Garments Tailored Garments Draped Garments Hybrid Practices Zero Waste Design Systems Adapting an Existing Design for Zero Waste Risky Design Practice Designing with the Fabric Width Short Cuts 4. Zero Waste Fashion Design and CAD Marker Making As Design Activity Interview with Julia Banks (Formerly Lumsden) Transforming Zero Waste Design Practice Digital Design Process before 3D Tools The Usefulness of 3D Software for Zero Waste Fashion Design Practice Digital 3D Design Workflow for Zero Waste Design Practice. The Future of Zero Waste Design in a Time of Automation Digital 2D/3D Design Note about the Differences between Tools Digital Tools in Fashion Design Education Case Study: Zero Waste Workshops Digital Tools in the Fashion Industry Case Study: High Price Outdoor Brand: Developing a Digital Prototype of Low Waste Design Using an Existing 2D Pattern Grading and CAD Combining Digital Technologies Digital Tools in Fashion Research Case Study: Zero + One: Developing a Digitized Analogue Drape Design Case Study: Using 3D Software to Develop Zero Waste Whole Garment Weaving Design Workflows Zero Waste Tutorial for 3D Digital Tools Making a Make/Use Coat in 3D Software Things to Consider Interview With Mylène L'Orguilloux – Milan AV-JC Short Cuts 5. Manufacturing Zero-Waste Garments Fashion Design and Fashion Manufacturing Interview with Mary Beth McDermott Sizing Zero Waste Garments Pathway 1: One-Size-Fits-Most Pathway 2: Conventional Grading Pathway 3: Designing Each Size Pathway 4: Mixing Multiple Sizes in a Marker Pathway 5: Using a Different Fabric Width for Each Size Pathway 6: A Hybrid Method Fabric in Manufacturing Zero Waste Garments Cutting Fabric Fabric Selvages Fabric Flaws Short Cuts 6. Zero Waste Fashion Design: Getting Started On Inspiration Interview with Kia Koski Documenting and Reflecting On Design On Sharing Conversation with Yeohlee Teng Zero Waste Fashion Design in Transitions Glossary References Index Acknowledgements Credits

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Book SynopsisThe history of the fashion industry has been well written as it relates to people who conform to certain physical norms and cultural stereotypes, whereas the inequality in access to the world of fashion has been largely ignored. Despite this lack of coverage, much work has taken place over the centuries to enable people who live with disability to participate in fashionable culture. This book tells that story via perspectives of notable historical figures, events and movements, and continues the discourse with a look at some of the contemporary developments in clothing and fashion.The Intersection of Fashion and Disability takes the long view, from early attempts to conceal unsightly' bodies of royalty and nobility via creative innovation through growing contemporary awareness of inclusive fashion and how future work can be driven by technology and cultural acceptance.Trade ReviewInfused in a historical context of adapted clothing designs, lies a recurrent reminder to each of us with disabilities that we deserve continued designs to assure our unadulterated inclusion in society. Kate’s decades of dedicated work will enable me, and other Occupational Therapy educators, to proliferate the future of dedicated and skilled therapists to join Kate’s efforts to promote a cultural change in the inclusion of all bodies, despite each person’s uniqueness. May the memory of my friend Birdie Minor continue to shine through many more women with disabilities as they advocate for disability rights adorned in clothing that allows them to feel whole. -- Paige Moore, Licensed Occupational Therapist and Adjunct Faculty at James Madison University and Mary Baldwin University, USAMarginalized fashion consumers are finally given voice in Kate Annett-Hitchcock’s hugely important book. This is fashion history as well as fashion present, the most timely analysis of fashion and disability that we all need to read. -- Dr Kate Strasdin, Senior Lecturer, Cultural Studies, Fashion and Textiles Institute, Falmouth University, UKThe Intersection of Fashion and Disability provides great historical background, which I feel many of my students need before starting to design. -- Grace Jun, Assistant Professor of Graphic Design, University of Georgia, USAFinally! This is the book that I've been waiting for … Annett-Hitchcock's prose is itself a pleasure, and the book does a superb job of making accessible a fashion history for those new to the field, alongside original (and I must say fabulous) research and insights. By moving between case studies, historical narrative, and a dedicated analytic timeline, it moderates between history, aesthetics, economics, and sociology. -- Jessica Burstein, Associate Professor of English, University of Washington, USAAn essential text that illuminates an untold history, while crafting a blueprint for Disabled people to be creators, consumers and a collective within the fashion system. * Sinéad Burke, CEO & Founder, Tilting the Lens *Table of ContentsList of Figures Contributors Preface Foreword Acknowledgements Abbreviations Glossary 1. Establishing Significance Introduction 1.1 Purpose of the book: It’s a fashion story! 1.2 Medical and social models of disability 1.3 Framing of disability fashion history Summary 2. Underpinnings: Events Prior to 1800 Introduction 2.1 Setting the stage for the historical discussion 2.2 Pre-eighteenth century 2.3 Impact of the Age of Enlightenment: 1740-1800 Summary Boxed Profiles: Mrs. Morrell and Miss Hawtin 3. Improvisation and Innovation: 1800-1920 Introduction 3.1 The early to mid-nineteenth century Charitable Organizations 3.2 The late nineteenth century: Effects of war 3.3 The early twentieth century: War, therapy & industry Summary Boxed Profile: Lavinia Warren 4. Rehabilitation, independence & finally fashion: 1930s to early 1970s Introduction 4.1 Impact of work, World War Two and rehabilitation: 1925-1950 4.2 Academic and government funded research: 1950-1973 4.3 Independent designers-Research and practice: 1950-1960 4.4 Connecting research, outreach and small business through independence & civil rights movements: 1960-1973 4.5 Other activist efforts and government initiatives Summary Boxed Profile: Frida Kahlo 5. Individual appearance management between two Acts: 1973-1990 Introduction 5.1 Impact of the 1973 Rehabilitation Act 5.2 Centers and workshops Design Without Limits Center for Universal Design 5.3 Other relevant publications 5.4 The beginning role of retail Summary Boxed Profile: Sunae Park Evans, Senior Costume Conservator, Smithsonian Institution 6. Contemporary Design and Technology Introduction 6.1 The Americans with Disabilities Act 6.2 Fashion design developments in context 6.3 Design interviews Alexandra Palmer on Izzy Camelleri of IZAdaptive Lucy Jones of FFORA Grace Jun of OpenStyleLab Justin LeBlanc on Justin LeBlanc Design 6.4 Do we have a disability design process? 6.5 Harnessing technological developments Summary 7. A Story of disabled makers Introduction 7.1 Disabled makers in history 7.2 The legacy of disabled makers Summary 8. Tying it all together Introduction 8.1 Patterns of success 8.2 Tying it all together 8.3 Where we could be heading 8.4 Disability fashion history timeline

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Book SynopsisSince the democratisation of the clothing industry in the early 19th century, buyers have become increasingly disconnected from the creative and human aspects of the production of clothing. Arguably clothing is now valued less for its aesthetic qualities or because of the hours spent in its making, but more for the extent to which it serves current fashion'. In a climate of increasing anxiety about the environmental and social impact of the contemporary global fashion industry, Rachel Worth suggests that, rather than seeking solutions only in the present, looking to history can assist in understanding better the challenges consumers face today in making decisions about the contents of their wardrobes, which, in turn, will impact on the nature of the future global fashion industry. She does not seek to offer simplistic historical solutions to contemporary problems, but explores ways in which it might be possible to bridge divides between knowledge of the past, current individual choiceTrade ReviewThe social, cultural and physical entanglement of attire with status, aspiration and livelihood is vividly articulated in this rich discourse. Drawing on the work of great poets and writers including Clare and Hardy, the reader is drawn into a reflection on the relational aspects of being human in a more than human world. * Dilys Williams, Centre for Sustainable Fashion, UK *Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Introduction 1. The Hidden Language of Clothing Nursery Rhymes, Fabric and Clothing Rhymes about Clothing and Class Rhymes with an Advisory or Cautionary (Clothing) Theme Rhymes about Clothing Poverty 2. From Democratisation to Fast Fashion Technological Change and the Cotton Industry Developments in the Making and Retailing of Ready-made Clothing Adoption of the Sewing Machine Retailing Revolution (I) The Democratisation of Shoe Production Retailing Revolution (II) Democratising Colour 3. Sustainability and Clothing in Context The Emergence of Fashion The Road to Fast Fashion The Backlash Against Fast Fashion The Fabric of Fashion Conundrum Transparency on the Label The Use of Fur and Feathers 4. The Human Factor: Clothing, Growth and Alternative Economic Paradigms ‘Sweating’ and the Fight for a Minimum Wage The Move to Outsourcing The ’Economics’ of Fast Fashion 5. Clothing, Nature and the Environment Clothing in Pastoral Narratives Nature Fights Back Nature and the Arts and Crafts Movement 6. Philosophies of Dress Oscar Wilde: The Philosophy of Dress Mary Eliza Haweis; The Art of Dress Eric Gill: Clothes Conclusion Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisTrade ReviewThe social, cultural and physical entanglement of attire with status, aspiration and livelihood is vividly articulated in this rich discourse. Drawing on the work of great poets and writers including Clare and Hardy, the reader is drawn into a reflection on the relational aspects of being human in a more than human world. * Dilys Williams, Centre for Sustainable Fashion, UK *Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Introduction 1. The Hidden Language of Clothing Nursery Rhymes, Fabric and Clothing Rhymes about Clothing and Class Rhymes with an Advisory or Cautionary (Clothing) Theme Rhymes about Clothing Poverty 2. From Democratisation to Fast Fashion Technological Change and the Cotton Industry Developments in the Making and Retailing of Ready-made Clothing Adoption of the Sewing Machine Retailing Revolution (I) The Democratisation of Shoe Production Retailing Revolution (II) Democratising Colour 3. Sustainability and Clothing in Context The Emergence of Fashion The Road to Fast Fashion The Backlash Against Fast Fashion The Fabric of Fashion Conundrum Transparency on the Label The Use of Fur and Feathers 4. The Human Factor: Clothing, Growth and Alternative Economic Paradigms ‘Sweating’ and the Fight for a Minimum Wage The Move to Outsourcing The ’Economics’ of Fast Fashion 5. Clothing, Nature and the Environment Clothing in Pastoral Narratives Nature Fights Back Nature and the Arts and Crafts Movement 6. Philosophies of Dress Oscar Wilde: The Philosophy of Dress Mary Eliza Haweis; The Art of Dress Eric Gill: Clothes Conclusion Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisA fascinating history of yarn in Cumbria, how yarn and wool production and sheep rearing have been part of Cumbriaâs history for centuries and their importance today with the revival of interest in knitting and other related crafts.

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Book Synopsis A fast-paced account of the year Clara Parkes spent transforming a 676-pound bale of fleece into saleable yarn, and the people and vanishing industry she discovered along the way  Join Clara Parkes on a cross-country adventure and meet a cast of characters that includes the shepherds, dyers, and countless workers without whom our knitting needles would be empty, our mills idle, and our feet woefully cold. Travel the country with her as she meets a flock of Saxon Merino sheep in upstate New York, tours a scouring plant in Texas, visits a steamy Maine dyehouse, helps sort freshly shorn wool on a working farm, and learns how wool fleece is measured, baled, shipped, and turned into skeins.  In pursuit of the perfect yarn, Parkes describes a brush with the dangers of opening a bale (they can explode), and her adventures from Maine to Wisconsin (“the most knitterly state”) and back again; along the way, she presents a behind-the-sceneTrade ReviewGiven my hatred of puns, I absolutely do not want to say Clara Parkes spins an incredible yarn, but how else to describe this incredible book? Parkes is the Marc Kurlansky of wool! -- John Hodgman * actor, humorist, and author of Vacationland *“While I laughed and loved Clara's prose, I was left with so much more. It's actually a lovely and melancholy look at an American industry that's quickly changing, and a beautiful story of the people who are sacrificing to maintain it." -- Judy Greer * actor, director, and author of I Don't Know What You Know Me From: Confessions of a Co-Star *“Long before social media cluttered every corner of our existence, Parkes’s conversational 411 about new yarns and interesting pattern designs forged connections among far-flung knitters, who discovered they were a global community rather than lone practitioners of a cozy hobby they’d learned from Mom.” -- Kathy Blumenstock * The Washington Post *“Quite possibly the only writer you will ever read who can make a discussion of micron counts absolutely riveting.” -- Mary Mooney * The Oregonian *

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Book SynopsisUlrich Lehmann brings together methods and ideas from social sciences and material production to give us a new political reading of fashion in today's post-democracy. Accessing rare source material across a wide range of European languages and cultures, he gives us insight into new working structures in the manufacture of garments and textiles.

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Book SynopsisOne of the world’s largest sellers of footwear, the Bata Company of Zlín, Moravia has a remarkable history that touches on crucial aspects of what made the world modern. In the twilight of the Habsburg Empire, the company Americanized its production model while also trying to Americanize its workforce. It promised a technocratic form of governance in the chaos of postwar Czechoslovakia, and during the Roaring Twenties, it became synonymous with rationalization across Europe and thus a flashpoint for a continent-wide debate. While other companies contracted in response to the Great Depression, Bata did the opposite, becoming the first shoe company to unlock the potential of globalization. As Bata expanded worldwide, it became an example of corporate national indifference, where company personnel were trained to be able to slip into and out of national identifications with ease. Such indifference, however, was seriously challenged by the geopolitical crisis of the 1930s,Table of ContentsIntroduction 1. “A New Fixed Existence”: The Modernization of Zlín 2. “Time is Money”: The Americanization of the Dřevnice Valley, 1914–1923 3. “An End to Politics”: The Political Takeover of the Dřevnice Valley, 1923–1926 4. “Speak Briefly”: Rationalization and Everyday Life, 1926–1932 5. “Half the World is Barefoot”: The Globalization of the Bata System, 1931–1937 6. “The Path of Perfection”: Engineering the Batovci for an Uncertain World, 1933–1938 7. “Everyone Gives Their Soul to Their Country,” 1937–March, 1939 8. “Not a Nazi, but More or Less a Fool,” 1939–1941 Conclusion

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Book SynopsisThe manufacturing and distribution of textiles and apparel products is a truly global industry, making it crucial to understand current political, social, and economic developments within the international marketplace. Going Global offers a comprehensive framework and approach to understanding the global textile and apparel industries, trade, and markets. This framework is used to holistically examine the global sourcing of textiles and apparel in the context of supply chain sustainability, while exploring the roles and specializations of world regions and selected countries that are major players in the textile and apparel marketplace.New to this Edition: -Comprehensive updates to country profiles and their specializations -Brand new Industry Profile feature with interviews from sourcing industry professionals -New and updated case studies help readers apply concepts to real-world scenarios Instructor Resources -The Instructor''s Guide provide suggestions for plan

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Book SynopsisFashion Business Cases: A Student Guide to Learning with Case Studies allows students to apply what they are learning in the classroom to real-life situations in the global fashion industry. Adapted from the Bloomsbury Fashion Business Cases (BFBC) online resource, this text will aid instructors in providing high-quality examples from scholars around the world. A mix of introductory, intermediate, and advanced cases ensure that students of all levels can develop the business, communication, and problem-solving skills required of fashion industry professionals. Topics range from corporate social responsibility and sustainable fashion to transparent brand communication and cultural sensitivity. This book is designed to foster critical and ethical thinking as students enter the fashion industry. Key Features:- 40 cases studies, of introductory, intermediate, and advanced level - Learning Objectives and Business Questions included with each case - Two introductory chapters tTable of ContentsPreface and Acknowledgments Bloomsbury Fashion Business Cases Editorial Board List of Contributors Part 1. Learning Through the Case Study Method Chapter 1: The Case Study Method of Learning Chapter 2: Presenting Fashion Business Cases Part 2. Fashion Business Case Studies on Textiles, Design, Product Development, and Sustainability Introduction to Fashion Business Case Studies on Textiles, Design, Product Development, and Sustainability Introductory Cases Chapter 3: FABSCRAP: Building Stakeholder Awareness for Reducing Fashion Industry Waste by Margaret Bishop (Field case) Chapter 4: Lenzing Group and Eileen Fisher by Leslie Davis Burns (Public case) Chapter 5: Natural or Synthetic Dyes? The Preservation of Indigenous Textile Dyeing Techniques by Luis Quijano and Matalie Howard (Public case) Intermediate Cases Chapter 6: Sewing for the Soil: A Social Enterprise by Yoon-Jung Lee and Yoori Chae (Field case) Chapter 7: Re;Code: Upcycling Deadstock Fabrics into a Fashion Brand by Su Yeon Kim and Ae-Ran Koh (Field case) Chapter 8: Turning Ocean Plastics into Sustainable Product Innovations: The Strategic Collaboration of Adidas and Parley for the Oceans by Nina Bürklin (Public case) Chapter 9: Applying Circular Economy Principles in Luxury Fashion: Petit h by Patsy Perry and Hakan Karaosman (Public case) Part 3. Fashion Business Cases on Marketing and Branding Introduction to Fashion Business Cases on Marketing and Branding Introductory Cases Chapter 10: Only Bright Lights for Uniqlo? Devising Strategies for Suburban Growth by Myles Ethan Lascity (Public case) Chapter 11: The Future for Under Armour: Maintaining Brand Equity by Lisa Hodgkins (Public case) Chapter 12: Brand Repositioning within the Fashion Industry by Jongeun Rhee and Kim K.P. Johnson (Scenario case) Intermediate Cases Chapter 13: H&M Under Attack: How Greenpeace Threatened a Brand’s Reputation in Sustainability by Rosanne P. Hart and Camille Kraeplin (Public case) Chapter 14: ‘D&G Go Home Now!’ A Case Analysis in Cultural Sensitivities, Local Awareness and Customer Relations for Luxury Brands Operating in Overseas Markets by Anne Peirson-Smith (Public case) Chapter 15: Building a Lifestyle Brand Through Extensions: Bhumi Organic Cotton by Anjum Khan and Michael B. Beverland (Public case) Chapter 16: Digital Heritage Storytelling at Mulberry by Amanda Grace Sikarskie (Public case) Chapter 17: Epigram: Lifestyle Merchandising and Brand Management by GiHyung Kim and YoungJee Suh (Field case) Chapter 18: Adoption of the “See Now Buy Now” Business Model in the Fashion Industry: A Fashion Calendar Revolution by Jennifer Kyungeun Lee (Scenario case) Part 4. Fashion Business Cases on Manufacturing, Supply Chain, and Technology Introduction to Fashion Business Cases on Manufacturing, Supply Chain, and Technology Introductory Cases Chapter 19: Faux, Faux Fur: Responding to Supply Chain Crises by Myles Ethan Lascity (Scenario case) Chapter 20: H&M Post-Rana Plaza: Can Fast Fashion Ever Be Truly Ethical? by David S. Waller and Helen J. Waller (Public case) Intermediate Cases Chapter 21: The Hiut Denim Company: Is One Product Enough? by Clare McTurk (Public case) Chapter 22: Youngone Corporation: Global Sourcing and Corporate Social Responsibility by Yoon-Jung Lee and Yoori Chae (Public case) Chapter 23: Making Fashion Transparent: What Consumers Know About the Brands They Admire by Iva Jestratijevic and Nancy A. Rudd (Public case) Advanced Cases Chapter 24: Gap Inc.’s Sourcing Dilemma: Stay or Leave China? by Sheng Lu (Public case) Chapter 25: Growth of Green Apparel Manufacturing Strategies in Bangladesh: The Sustainable Road Ahead by Maher Anjum and Lynne Hammond (Scenario case) Chapter 26: New Technology Acceptance in Global Fashion Industry: Fashion ERP (Enterprise Resource Planning), SCM (Supply Chain Management), and CAD (Computer-Aided Design) Systems by Jennifer Kyungeun Lee (Scenario case) Part 5. Fashion Business Cases on Retailing and Merchandising Management Introduction to Fashion Business Cases on Retailing and Merchandising Management Introductory Cases Chapter 27: ALAND Retail Store: Assortment Planning: Product Categories and Lines by Chanjean Jung (Public case) Chapter 28: Department Stores and the "Retail Apocalypse": How Might American Retailer Macy's Survive? by Priscilla Martinez and Lorynn Divita (Public case) Chapter 29: The Botanical Store: Urban Outfitters' Expansion Into Plants as a Lifestyle Statement by Jo Hurley (Public case) Intermediate Cases Chapter 30: John Smedley: Transforming a British Luxury Family Business by Bethan Alexander (Field case) Chapter 31: Indochino, the Customer Experience from Online to Bricks-and-Mortar: Shopping of the Future: Customization and Personalization in Menswear by Flora Brunetti (Public case) Chapter 32: The Lime-Green Colored Glove: Product Design and Development, and Buyer Liaison by Valerie Wilson Trower (Scenario case) Advanced Cases Chapter 33. Depop the Social Shopping Platform: Developing the Business Model for International and Physical Expansion by Helen Beney (Public case) Chapter 34. Ellistons Department Store: Merchandising Strategies for a Multichannel Retailer by Anthony Kent, Justine Davidson, and Ruby Fowler (Scenario case) Part 6. Fashion Business Cases on Entrepreneurship and Fashion Law Introduction to Fashion Business Cases on Entrepreneurship and Fashion Law Introductory Cases Chapter 35: Kickstarting a Brand: Using Crowdfunding to Launch a Brand by Marie Segares and Eda Sanchez-Persampieri (Scenario case) Chapter 36: Shoes of Prey: Design Custom Made Shoes: Identifying Opportunity Within the Global Fashion Industry by Caroline Swee Lin Tan (Field case) Chapter 37: Louis Vuitton Versus My Other Bag: Luxury Brand Protection by Agnieszka Witonska-Pakulska (Public case) Chapter 38: Cultural Appreciation or Cultural Appropriation: Native American-Inspired Jewelry Design by Celia Stall-Meadows (Scenario case) Intermediate Cases Chapter 39: Approaching CSR with a New Kind of Transparency: How eCommerce Retailer Everlane Set New Industry Standards in Brand Communication by Nina Bürklin (Public case) Chapter 40: Patagonia: Creative Sustainability Strategy for a Reluctant Fashion Brand by Rosemary Varley, Natascha Radclyffe-Thomas and William Webb (Public case) Chapter 41: The Industry Versus The Indie: The Case of Zara Versus Tuesday Bassen: Fast Fashion, Unlawful Copying and Enamel Pins by Roxanne Peters (Public case) Chapter 42: Who Owns Genuine UGG/UGG® boots in the Global Footwear Marketplace? by Rachel Matthews (Public case) Index

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Book SynopsisEven as the fashion industry changes rapidly with new technologies, styles and trendsetters, one thing remains constant: the customer is key. But with more competition than ever before, how do fashion brands reach elusive customers and even more crucially, establish loyalty? This thoroughly updated third edition introduces core concepts of consumer behavior through a unique fashion perspective. Ideal for fashion merchandising and marketing courses, this text explains the motivation behind consumer choice and purchase written in a clear manner with industry examples. This text will cover updates in technology and social media, which have changed the landscape of the fashion market. Discussion of the pandemic, diversity, sustainability, and ethical practices are also included. Student activities, mini-projects, and brand new Just-in-Case case studies promote application of the text concepts for a complete understanding of The Why of the Buy.STUDIO Features Include:

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Book SynopsisPerry's Department Store: A Buying Simulation, 4th Edition, launches students into the exciting role of being a retail buyer in the fashion industry using a unique simulation approach that takes readers step-by-step through a real-life buying experience. The text is organized into 10 chapters that walk students through the various steps a new buyer would take to complete a six-month buying plan and a merchandise assortment plan for the women's contemporary apparel, junior apparel, women's accessories, men's apparel and accessories, men's contemporary apparel, children's, or home furnishings markets.The fourth edition has been revised with statistical information to reflect a more contemporary structure and business model for a successful department store. The new Perry's Department Store is organized to reflect a larger-scale department store in today's market. Students interact by researching current market and industry trends to build their business. The charts and worksheets

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Book SynopsisDispelling stereotypes about garment workers in the global apparel industryCastoffs of Capital examines how female garment workers experience their work and personal lives within the stranglehold of global capital. Drawing on fieldwork in Bangladesh, anthropologist Lamia Karim focuses attention onto the lives of older women aged out of factory work, heretofore largely ignored, thereby introducing a new dimension to the understanding of a female-headed workforce that today numbers around four million in Bangladesh.Bringing a feminist labor studies lens, Castoffs of Capital foregrounds these women not only as workers but as mothers, wives, sisters, lovers, friends, and political agents. Focusing on relations among work, gender, and global capital’s targeting of poor women to advance its market penetration, Karim shows how women navigate these spaces by adopting new subject formations. She locates these women’s aspirations for the “good life” not only in material comforts but also in their longings for love and sexual fulfillment that help them momentarily forget the precarity of their existence under the shadow of capital.Through richly detailed ethnographic studies, this innovative and beautifully written book examines the making and unmaking of these women’s wants and desires, loves and tribulations, hopes and despairs, and triumphs and struggles.Trade Review "Lamia Karim provides a rich account of global capitalism from the perspective of women who produce the clothes that we wear everyday, offering a nuanced understanding of the complex choices and lives of the women who work in garment factories. Accessible and insightful, Castoffs of Capital informs interdisciplinary understandings of contemporary inequality, and it will transform our understanding of workers and the socioeconomic structures that shape the world."—Leela Fernandes, author of Governing Water in India: Inequality, Reform, and the State "In Castoffs of Capital, Lamia Karim presents new dimensions of garment workers’ lives, from the dynamics of capitalism to the nature of social norms that render these workers nameless and faceless."—American Anthropologist

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Book SynopsisDispelling stereotypes about garment workers in the global apparel industryCastoffs of Capital examines how female garment workers experience their work and personal lives within the stranglehold of global capital. Drawing on fieldwork in Bangladesh, anthropologist Lamia Karim focuses attention onto the lives of older women aged out of factory work, heretofore largely ignored, thereby introducing a new dimension to the understanding of a female-headed workforce that today numbers around four million in Bangladesh.Bringing a feminist labor studies lens, Castoffs of Capital foregrounds these women not only as workers but as mothers, wives, sisters, lovers, friends, and political agents. Focusing on relations among work, gender, and global capital’s targeting of poor women to advance its market penetration, Karim shows how women navigate these spaces by adopting new subject formations. She locates these women’s aspirations for the “good life” not only in material comforts but also in their longings for love and sexual fulfillment that help them momentarily forget the precarity of their existence under the shadow of capital.Through richly detailed ethnographic studies, this innovative and beautifully written book examines the making and unmaking of these women’s wants and desires, loves and tribulations, hopes and despairs, and triumphs and struggles.Trade Review "Lamia Karim provides a rich account of global capitalism from the perspective of women who produce the clothes that we wear everyday, offering a nuanced understanding of the complex choices and lives of the women who work in garment factories. Accessible and insightful, Castoffs of Capital informs interdisciplinary understandings of contemporary inequality, and it will transform our understanding of workers and the socioeconomic structures that shape the world."—Leela Fernandes, author of Governing Water in India: Inequality, Reform, and the State "In Castoffs of Capital, Lamia Karim presents new dimensions of garment workers’ lives, from the dynamics of capitalism to the nature of social norms that render these workers nameless and faceless."—American Anthropologist

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Book SynopsisThreads of globalization is an interdisciplinary volume that brings fashion-specific garments, motifs, materials, and methods of production into dialogue with gender and identity in various cultures throughout Asia during the long twentieth century. It examines how the shift from artisanal production to 'fast fashion' over the past 150 years has devalued women’s textile labour and how skilled textile/ garment makers and the organizations that support them are preserving and reviving heritage traditions. It also offers examples of how socially engaged artists in Asia and the diaspora use their work to criticize labour and environmental abuses in the global fashion industry.Table of ContentsIntroduction: stitching together gender, textile and garment labor, and heritage in Asia – Melia Belli BosePart I: Fashioning identity: textiles, garments, and belonging1 Wearing a gendered tree: a new style of garments from early modern to twentieth-century China – Yuhang Li2 Women for cotton and men for wool: consuming gendered textiles in colonized Korea – Kyunghee Pyun3 Gendered blue: women’s jeans in postwar Taiwan – Ying-chen Peng4 Bhutanese women and the performance of globalization – Emma Dick5 Weaving and dyeing the ideal of reproduction among Shidong Miao in Guizhou province – Ho Zhao-huaPart II: Gendering creative agency: women fashion designers, textile makers, and entrepreneurs6 Soft power: Guo Pei and the fashioning of matriarchy – Kristen Loring Brennan7 Investigating female entrepreneurship in silk weaving in contemporary Cambodia – Magali An Berthon8 (Re)crafting distribution networks for contemporary Philippine textiles: women’s advocacy and social enterprise – B. Lynne Milgram 9 Women weaving silken identities and revitalizing various Japanese textile traditions – Millie CreightonPart III: Creative voices for change: textiles, gender, and artivism10 Entangled histories of craft and conflict: the story of phulkari textiles in The Singh Twins’s Slaves of Fashion – Cristin McKnight Sethi11 The politics of wastefulness and ‘the poetics of waste’: Ruby Chishti’s sartorial interventions – Saleema Waraich12 Made in Rana Plaza: Dilara Begum Jolly’s garment factory-themed art – Melia Belli BoseIndex

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Book SynopsisThis book covers the following themes and cross-cutting research and development activities: Agronomy, economics and market trends for the production of natural fibres; Synthetic and natural fibres, their properties, processing and applications; Properties, performance and primary processing of natural fibres; Textile and clothing production processes and properties; Nanotechnology applications in fibres, textiles and clothing; Comfort and health related applications of textiles; World trade and marketing of fibres, textiles and clothing; Modern and innovative textile processing techniques and technologies.

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Book SynopsisThe eighth edition of this industry standard for textile terminology is fully revised and expanded featuring approximately 100 new entries and over 14,000 definitions of fibers, fabrics, laws and regulations affecting textile materials and processing, inventors of textile technology, and business and trade terms relevant to textiles. Trademark information has been thoroughly updated to reflect the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office's Trademark Electronic Search System (TESS), and current definitions from the industry associations American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists and American Society for Testing and Materials are included. Fully illustrated with over 400 photographs and line drawings, entries include pronunciation, derivation, definition, and uses. An extensive appendix provides a list of national and internationalindustry associations and organizations. From Abaca to Zyex, The Fairchild Books Dictionary of Textiles contains essential reference information for professionals and scholars involved in the textile industry.Trade ReviewThis is a must for any library, group or individual, who is seriously working with textiles at all stages of production and use. * Textile Research Centre *Table of ContentsHow to Use the Dictionary A - Z Appendix References

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Book SynopsisA fascinating look at the world of small-scale textile farms along the Salish Sea and their pivotal role in sustainable, artisanal textile production and the slow fashion movement.Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands are a part of a unique geographical region that can grow and process its own raw textile materials with transparency. This book explores the region's vibrant fleece and fibre community and introduces the public to this growing land-based textile economy. Richly illustrated with captivating photography, Fleece and Fibre presents the many fibre types produced along the Salish Seaincluding sheep wool, llama, alpaca, mohair, cashmere, linen, flax, and hempand explains where and how they are currently being grown, processed, and used. At a time when the global textile industry is one of the most unsustainable and exploitative industries on the planet, the public is looking for local alternatives to fast fashion. Part sourcebook, part stunning coffee table book, and part call to action, Fleece and Fibre creates new connections between farmers, raw materials, makers, designers, dyers, and wearers.

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