Business, Finance & Law Books

Book SynopsisSixten Korkman gives an overview of the economic policies and the economic policy regime of the EU, including EMU and the internal market. He provides analysis of policy issues in the light of economic theory and examines critically the rationale for policy intervention at the EU level. The book also describes and explains the legal and institutional set up of the EU and illustrates issues of principle by referring to practical cases of EU deliberations.Table of ContentsBoxes Figures Tables Abbreviations Preface Introduction Rationale Methods Modalities Macroeconomic Policy in the SOE Macroeconomic policy in the EMU Structural Policies Tax Policy The Community Budget Problems and Prospects Notes References Index

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Book SynopsisThis book examines government/regulatory responses to the Asian Financial Crisis which brought unprecedented financial turmoil for most East Asian countries. It provides thought-provoking insights on fundamental differences in the institutional and regulatory framework of 10 East Asian countries, including an assessment of the various corporate governance reforms after the crisis.Table of ContentsIntroduction and Overview; F.A.Gul & J.S.L.Tsui Shareholding Structures, Related Party Transactions and Corporate Governance in China; W-G.Zhang Governance in Family-Owned Hong Kong Corporations; J.S.L.Tsui & V.Scott Political Patronage, Cross-Holdings and Corporate Governance in Indonesia; E.R.Wulandari & A.R.Rahman Corporate Governance in Japan: Role of Banks, Keiretsus and Japanese Traditions; H.N.Higgins Paradoxes of Governance: Ownership and Control of Corporate Malaysia; E.T.Gomez Corporate Governance in the Philippines: Legal and Institutional Aspects and Impact on the 1997 Financial Crisis and its Aftermath; S.G.Lynn Corporate Governance in Singapore: Past, Present and Future; Y-T.Mak Chaebols and Corporate Governance in South Korea; F.C.Kim Relationship-Based Systems and Corporate Governance Reform in Taiwan; C-E.Ko & Y-H.Yeh Problems of Corporate Governance Reform in Thailand; D.Nikomborirak

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Book SynopsisOutsourcing of business processes has been a major and growing trend. Many major corporations have outsourced overseas and the next wave will include many SMEs moving outsourcing operations. The changes and implications for business are substantial. Based on the latest research and data, with extensive case studies, diagrams, and interviews with major corporations, this book provides a comprehensive analysis and highlights the best practice and pitfalls to avoid.Table of ContentsIntroduction What BPO means? The BPO Competitive Landscape Sourcing Strategy: An Imperative in the Connected Economy How to Develop a Sourcing Strategy Guidelines for Outsourcing Partners The CFO Perspective Sourcing Investment Banking Research & Independent Stock Research The Politics of Outsourcing: Trends, Risks and Strategies The Future: Outsourcing, Innovation and Your Company's and Country's Future Growth Summary of Ministerial Response to Debate: Extract from Hansard

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Book SynopsisDeveloping broad, holistic notions of 'impact' to measure the effects of international development assistance, this book makes a significant contribution to understanding the international political economy. Leading experts focus on enhancing aid's ability to reduce poverty in poor countries.Trade Review"Aid Impact and Poverty Reduction is an edited volume that conceptualizes a broad notion of impact as the appropriate metric for the analysis of development aid. In so doing, it is poised to make a significant impact on our understanding of international development assistance as a prominent feature of the international political economy, and of the societies in which (and on which) it operates." - David Simon, Yale UniversityTable of ContentsIntroduction: Aid Relations, Aid Impact and Poverty Reduction; S.Folke & H.Nielsen PART I: AID RELATIONS: APPROACHES AND DILEMMAS Challenging the Injustice of Poverty: Rethinking Aid Strategies; R.Sobhan Flexible Standards for Controlled Empowerment? Microfinance as a Case Study of Aid Management; J.Copestake Aid Modalities and the Arts of Government; J.Gould From Humanitarianism to Good Governance? Reflections on a Danish-Ethiopian Aid Model; F.Wilson PART II: AID IMPACT: CASES AND CONTEXTS Assessing Impact with Limited Outcome Data: Experience from a Theory-Based Approach to the Evaluation of Social Funds; S.Carvalho & H.White Reaching the Poor in an Integrated Rural Development Project in Bangladesh; S.Folke The Impact of a Joint NGO Programme in North Wollo, Ethiopia: Enhanced Food Security for the Poor?; P.Sørensen Domestic Water, Bikas and Modernity: Exploring the Impacts of a Finnish-aided Water Supply Project in Nepal; S.Sharma Coping Strategies Within a Development Project: An Impact Study from Mozambique; H.Nielsen & Y.Adam

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Book SynopsisLeading experts analyze the impact of the rapid growth of offshore outsourcing in manufacturing and IT. For some it promises more rapid economic growth and for some developing countries it is an opportunity to leapfrog, while others are sidelined but it also means labour and governments may lose bargaining power vis-à-vis globally mobile capital.Trade Review'In a world where goods and services move more freely than the workers who produce them, globalization means offshore outsourcing. This book is essential for anyone who wants to understand this phenomenon and the debates over what to do about it.' - James K. Boyce, University of Massachusetts, Amherst, USA 'The global labour market has doubled over the past two decades.' An innocent-sounding observation, but it captures the dynamic of one of the great transformations of our time. This book illuminates how it has happened, and how its effects amount to a veritable political-economic 'climate change'. The doubling has brought more opportunities, higher average incomes, and political enfranchisement for billions of people; on the other hand, it has also brought heightened economic insecurity, distress migration, quests for status spilling across continents, the ascendancy of capital, and governments of all kinds 'reforming' the welfare state into an instrument of labour control. The book goes beyond analysis to suggest how in practical terms those who 'think for the world' should respond, including how to redistribute capital income without undermining investment, and how to increase the spillovers from foreign investment.' - Robert H. Wade, Professor of International Political Economy, London School of Economics and Political Science, UKTable of ContentsWinners and Losers from Offshore Outsourcing: What Is to Be Done?; E.Paus The Challenge of the Growing Globalization of Labor Markets to Economic and Social Policy; R.Freeman Offshoring and Labor Recommodification in the Global Transformation; G. Standing Globalization of Services: Friend or Foe?; C.Mann Dynamic Gains from U.S. Services Offshoring: A Critical View; W.Milberg, R.Arnim, M.Mahoney & M.Schneider Bargaining Power, Distributional Equity, and the Challenge of Offshoring; J.Burke & G.Epstein Social Contracts under Siege: National Responses to Globalized and Europeanized Production in Europe; V.Schmidt European in the Trap: Jobs on the Run and Democracy at Stake; H-P.Martin Offshore Outsourcing of Services: Trends and Challenges for Developing Countries; L.Abugattas Offshore Outsourcing as a Catalyst of Economic Development: the Case of India; N. Suri Offshore Outsourcing and Industrial Restructuring: New Europe's Success; B.Kaminski The Impact of Foreign Investment on China's Industrial Innovation; G.Jefferson Capturing the Benefits of Offshore Outsourcing for Developing Countries: The Case for Active Policies; E.Paus & H.Shapiro

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Book SynopsisThere is a growing realization that business development is the most effective weapon in fighting world poverty. How the for-profit model can be harnessed to provide the poor with a share in the world's prosperity is discussed through actual cases, and nested in innovative theories of business, social sciences, and philosophy.Table of ContentsPART I: THE CONTEXT Introduction: The Context of Alleviating Business Strategy; C. Wankel The End of Foreign Aid as We Know It: The Profitable Alleviation of Poverty in a Globalized Economy; S. Kelley, Patricia H. Werhane and L. P. Hartman Innovative Business Approaches and Poverty: Toward a First Evaluation; E. Raufflet, A. Berranger and A. Aguilar-Platas Information and Communication Technology for Alleviating Poverty in Developing Nations; N. Yajnik PART II: NGOs AND UNIVERSITIES A Collaborative-Systemic Strategy Addressing the Dynamics of Poverty in Guatemala; J. L. Ritchie-Dunham In Search of Sustainable Social Mission Ventures to Eliminate Poverty; S. McIntyre PART III: COMMUNITIES AND ENTREPRENEURSHIP Scrutinizing the Link between Poverty and Business Strategy: What Can We Learn from the Case of Shuttle Traders in Laleli; M. Eder and Ö. Öz Dynamics of Value Creation and Value Appropriation in Network-based Enterprises; O. Branzei Alleviating Poverty Using Microfranchising Models: Case Studies and a Critique; L. Jones Christensen PART IV: BUSINESS INITIATIVES Developing Export Capacity among Craft Manufacturers; J. Hack Katz Doing Well by Doing Good: Unilever's Contribution to India's Poorest; W. Amann and S. Khan Marketing Strategies for Subsistence Marketplaces; M. Viswanathan, S. Sridharan and R. Ritchie

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Book SynopsisImages and accounts of the Mexican - US migration process and the border region abound.Table of ContentsIntroduction - Edward Ashbee, Helene Balslev Clausen& Carl Pedersen * PART I: AMERICAN IDENTITIES * Somos Americanos : Mexican Immigration and US National Identity in the Twenty-first Century - Carl Pedersen * Mexican Mestiz Identity in the Twenty-first Century - Helene Balslev Clausen * PART II: CAPITAL AND LABOR * The Other Side of the Migration Story: Mexican Women in the US - Silvia E. Giorguli Saucedo, María Adela Angoa Pérez& Selene Gaspar Olvera * From Precarious, Low-Paying Jobs in Mexico to Precarious, Low-Paying Jobs in the United States - Elaine Levine * Sending Money Home: The Dynamics of Mexico-US Remittances - Mario Villarreal & Megan Davy * The Impact of NAFTA on the Mexican-US Border Region - Elena Labastida-Tovar * Transnational Social Networks and International Trade - Magdalena Barros Nock * PART III: THE BORDER REGION * Beyond Border Crossing and Soulless Places: The Role of Mexico's Northern Border Cities in the Construction of Transnational Social Spaces - Cristóbal Mendoza * Changing Representations of the Border - Mario Alberto Velázquez * Boundaries in Border Films: The Other as "Our" Redemption - Jan Gustafsson * Baldwin Park, Historical Narratives, and American Identities - Anne Magnussen * Textual Representations of the Border and Border-Crossers: Constructing Latino Enemies in The New York Times - Ken Henriksen * Mexican Immigration and the Question of Identity in the United States - Raphael Gomez * PART IV: POLITICS AND PUBLIC POLICY * Immigration and the 2006 US Mid-Term Elections - Edward Ashbee * Immigration, Social Policy, and Politics in the US - Alex Waddan * From the Margin to the Middle?: The Origin, Transformation, and Direction of the Minutemen - Pia Møller * Migrants, Votes, and the 2006 Mexican Presidential Elections - Helene Balslev Clausen & Mario Alberto Velázquez * Sovereignty along el Río Bravo / the Rio Grande: Changes in US Immigration Law and Mexican Foreign Relations Law - Ernesto Hernández-López

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Book SynopsisThe State of Loyalism in Northern Ireland examines the changes and developments within parliamentary loyalism throughout the Northern Ireland peace process. Drawing from interviews with key players, it charts the drama of tensions, debates and negotiations and provides a compelling inside account.Trade Review'The State of Loyalism in Northern Ireland is the most important treatment of its subject undertaken in recent years. Graham Spencer has produced a book which must be read by all serious scholars of Northern Ireland's politics and society. a definitive book on loyalist politics and an essential addition to any reading list.' Professor Jon Tonge, Chair of the Political Studies Association of the UK, University of Liverpool, UK 'The State of Loyalism in Northern Ireland is a fascinating analysis that tells the little known story of the loyalist role in the Northern Ireland peace process. Graham Spencer's interviews with loyalist paramilitaries and key political actors make this an indispensable contribution to our understanding of Northern Ireland's remarkable shift from war to peace.' - Dr Paul Dixon, Kingston University, UK 'A timely and important analysis of the role played by loyalism in the Northern Ireland peace process. Drawing on interviews with key actors, Graham Spencer has produced an intelligent, engaging and necessary study on loyalism and political change in Northern Ireland.' - Professor John Grieve, Independent Monitoring Commission, Belfast '...a cleverly woven analysis unveiling a compelling contemporary political history...a "must-have" to understanding the role of Loyalism.' - John Coulter, Tribune 'This well-researched work will be of interest to a wide audience...' - James Condren, University of Ulster, Political Studies ReviewTable of ContentsIntroduction The Unionist Imagination The Identity of Loyalism Violence and Politics The Peace Process Part 1: Early Stages and Key Players The Peace Process Part 2: Talks Towards the Good Friday Agreement After the Good Friday Agreement The Media Recent Developments and the Way Ahead Conclusion

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Book SynopsisThis book offers insights, knowledge and perspectives on Asian brands and branding as a strategic tool and provides a comprehensive framework for understanding Asian branding strategies and Asian brands, including success stories and challenges for future growth and strengths. The book includes theoretical frameworks and models and up-to-date case studies on Asian brandsTrade Review'Martin Roll's Asian Brand Strategy provides superb motivation and substance into Asian brands and branding. It offers invaluable inspiration and guidance into one of the hottest areas of marketing.' - Kevin Lane Keller, Professor of Marketing, Tuck School of Business 'Martin Roll's book Asian Brand Strategy has the serious theoretical framework which underpins any real understanding of the role of branding in business. And it has the practical pointers which make it useful for anyone wanting to implement a brand strategy. I would strongly recommend this book as compulsory reading for anyone who wants to understand the power of branding and how to implement a practical, no-gimmicks brand strategy.' - Ho Kwon Ping, Executive Chariman, Banyan Tree Resorts 'Martin Roll makes a compelling argument for branding to be one of the top issues for Asian CEOs to enhance shareholder value. He provides a thoughtful set of approaches, and illustrates these nicely with interesting cases from the region.' - Minsok Pak, Principal, McKinsey & Co. 'Highly readable...sprinkled with interesting case studies that will appeal to the layman as much as the expert.' - The TelegraphTable of ContentsIntroduction Branding - The driver of a successful business strategy Transforming the way we understand Asian cultures and consumers Asian country branding Celebrity branding in Asia Asian brand strategy Successful Asian brand cases Aspiring Asian brand cases 10 steps to build an Asian brand Asian brands towards 2020 - A new confidence in the boardroom Conclusion Appendix - Brand Valuation

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Book SynopsisLance Wright shows why business in the 21st century requires a new understanding of the intersection of risk, security, and human resource management. He argues that these areas should no longer be considered separate processes, handled by technical specialists with limited spheres of expertise. People, risk and security management should be treated as a critically important integrated business management system. People may be your greatest asset but they can also be your biggest liability.They expose you to all sorts of risks risks from things they can do (or fail to do) and from things that can be done to them. No matter how tight a risk and security management policy may be in theory, it can fail on its first contact with reality if it doesn't understand the people involved.Wright understands people, risk and security like few others. For years he was in charge people management for leading oil companies getting people into and out of some of the mostTable of ContentsIntroduction.- Chapter 1 Rethinking People, Risk, And Security.- Chapter 2 The Causes of New Threats.- Chapter 3 Managing the People Risks to Organizations.- Chapter 4 A Primer on Political Risk and Terrorism.- Chapter 5 Managing Cyber Security.- Chapter 6 Economic Espionage and Business Intelligence.- Chapter 7 Business Continuity Planning.- Chapter 8 Managing Crisis and Disaster.- Chapter 9 Planning for Pandemics.- Chapter 10 Effective Substance Abuse Programs.- Chapter 11 Reducing Workplace Violence.- Chapter 12 The New World of Corporate Security.- Conclusion.

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Book SynopsisIn this book Manfred Kets de Vries, one of the world's leading authorities on the psychology of leadership, and a pioneering practitioner in the field of psychodynamic executive coaching, draws on the format of traditional fairy tales and tells us five stories that dramatize five key themes of dysfunctional leadership.Trade Review'This book is the distillation of the life experiences of an internationally renowned guru of management and leadership studies. Combining insight with his signature wit, Kets de Vries cuts to the bone as he reflects on and gently guides executives, and others, through some of the core issues that bedevil our lives. A book that will linger in memory, creating ever-widening ripples, long after the ephemeral offerings of the usual management literature have disappeared.' - Dr. Sudhir Kakar, Psychoanalyst, Anthropologist, Novelist and one of the major thinkers of the world 'The art of understanding oneself is crucial to understanding others. Professor Manfred Kets de Vries' insight into our motivations and levels of emotional intelligence exposes the hidden fact that lies at the heart of business behaviour; namely that we are all human.' - The Viscount Rothermere, Chairman DMGT 'This book made me laugh, it made me feel uncomfortable sometimes, but I learned a lot. It makes the reader think about how much s/he can do - good and bad - to her/himself and to others in family, business and social life. With his free and easy style Kets de Vries lines up the latest findings of human science and gives examples of the highs and lows of real human life reminding us that we are in the driving seat. Seize the opportunity.' - Janos Csak, Economist, Sociologist, Chairman, Constellation Energy Institute

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Book SynopsisThis book considers Karl Marx''s ideas in relation to the social and political context in which he lived and wrote. It emphasizes both the continuity of his commitment to the cause of full human emancipation, and the role of his critique of political economy in conceiving history to be the history of class struggles. The book follows his developing ideas from before he encountered political economy, through the politics of 1848 and the Bonapartist farce,, the maturation of the critique of political economy in the Grundrisse and Capital, and his engagement with the politics of the First International and the legacy of the Paris Commune. Notwithstanding errors in historical judgment largely reflecting the influence of dominant liberal historiography, Marx laid the foundations for a new social theory premised upon the historical consequences of alienation and the potential for human freedom.Trade Review“Comninel’s Interpretation … focusses on how the original conceptual framework of Marx evolved with his critique of capitalism from his initial framework of alienation of labour. … George Comninel’s exciting contribution can be regarded as a fresh start to recast Marx with his own social and political context, with a strong critique of the Marxist accounts that undermined the essential features of the historical materialist method.” (Berkay Koçak, Progress in Political Economy (PPE), ppesydney.net, June 10, 2021)“With such balanced prose and precise argumentation there are few words fit for purpose other than to declare that with Alienation and Emancipation in the Work of Karl Marx, George Comninel has produced a simply exquisite book. Without hyperbole, it ranks among some of the finest scholarship I have encountered in the past decade.” (Scott Timcke, Marx and Philosophy, June 12, 2020)“This is a skilled and dedicated work of scholarship that will serve anyone interested in deeper engagement with Marx’s works in their own terms very well. … the lively style and illuminating historical analysis will provide fresh insights for readers of all levels of familiarity with the First International’s best known thinker.” (Jules Joanne Gleeson, Tribune, July 8, 2019)Table of Contents1. Introduction.- 2. Approaching Marx’s Theory.- 3. Emancipation in Marx's Early Work.- 4. The Developing Conception of Historical Materialism.- 5. Problems of The German Ideology.- 6. The German Ideology vs. Historical Materialism.- 7. The Puzzle of the Manifesto of the Communist Party.- 8. Debating Marx’s Conception of Class in History.- 9. Historical Materialism and the Specificity of Capitalism.- 10. Capital as a Social Relation.- 11. Capital and Historical Materialism.- 12. Marx and the Politics of the First International.- 13. Marx and Social Theory.

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Book SynopsisAround the globe, contemporary protest movements are contesting the oligarchic appropriation of natural resources, public services, and shared networks of knowledge and communication. These struggles raise the same fundamental demand and rest on the same irreducible principle: the common.In this exhaustive account, Pierre Dardot and Christian Laval show how the common has become the defining principle of alternative political movements in the 21st century. In societies deeply shaped by neoliberal rationality, the common is increasingly invoked as the operative concept of practical struggles creating new forms of democratic governance. In a feat of analytic clarity, Dardot and Laval dissect and synthesize a vast repository on the concept of the commons, from the fields of philosophy, political theory, economics, legal theory, history, theology, and sociology.Instead of conceptualizing the common as an essence of man or as inherent in nature, the thread developeTrade ReviewIf we accept the authors’ repeated contention that our present and future are profoundly bleak, we must equally recognize that a new way of engaging our present and future in common is required. This new way of engaging is precisely what Dardot and Laval offer under the name the common—the political principle that informs the collaborative, deliberative activity whereby new customs and institutions may be formed to transcend the social and political conditions threatening humanity and our world itself. * Confluence: The Journal of the AGLSP *The common has emerged as a key concept in 21st century struggles for justice. Dardot and Laval not only explain why, they also inspire us to build and strengthen commoning movements. An important intervention. -- Jodi Dean, Professor of Political Science, Hobart and William Smith Colleges, USA and author of 'The Communist Horizon'In the past few years, movements across the planet have fought bravely for the re-appropriation of plundered and privatized goods, while revitalizing the critique of property, understood as the legal form structuring our political economy and everyday life. Common is a sweeping, erudite and combative attempt to draw the theoretical balance-sheet of these movements and critiques, to anatomize their spontaneous philosophies, and to transform ‘common’ into a political principle for a new model of revolutionary politics that could break through the impasses of contemporary radical thought and practice. An indispensable contribution to one of the central debates of our time. -- Alberto Toscano, Co-director of Centre for Philosophy and Critical Thought, Goldsmiths, University of London, UK and author of 'Fanaticism'What do you do after you have written one of the most devastating criticisms of neoliberal reason? Dardot and Laval’s answer is to turn to the exact opposite to neoliberalism’s reduction of nature to private property and society to competition, to the common. The common is framed here not as something lost in precapitalist mists, or something that only appears sporadically in moments of revolt, but as that which must be instituted and created by practices. There are no shortages of criticisms of the existing order, but Common is the rare book that takes the next step, not just imagining a new world, but showing us the conditions for its creation. -- Jason Read, Associate Professor of Philosophy, University of Southern Maine, USA, author of 'The Politics of Transindividuality'After their massive tome on Karl Marx, Pierre Dardot and Christian Laval strike again, this time with an even more wide-ranging militant investigation into the common. Combining long-term legal and conceptual history with classical and present-day political theory, they invite us to leave behind the habitual focus on either the tragic story of the enclosure of the commons or the heroic example of the Paris Commune and instead argue for an all-encompassing understanding of the common as the pivotal ground for a future politics. This is a must-read for each and everyone interested in the shared practice of instituting new forms of life in common. -- Bruno Bosteels, author of 'The Actuality of Communism'This new and exciting translation of Dardot’s and Laval’s Common: On Revolution in the 21st Century is the best account of the communal idea available in contemporary theory and criticism. Philosophically rich and archeologically exhaustive, it stands as a founding text in the growing field of commons studies that will appeal to a wide variety of teachers, scholars, and activists who share a commitment to exploring a new reason of the common in everyday activities and practices. -- Davide Panagia, Professor of Political Science, University of California Los Angeles, USATable of ContentsIntroduction: The Common: A Political Principle Chapter 1: Archaeology of the Common PART 1: The Emergence of the Common Chapter 2: The Communist Burden; or Communism Against the Common Chapter 3: The Great Appropriation and the Return of the “Commons” Chapter 4: Critiquing the Political Economy of the Commons Chapter 5: Common, Rents, and Capital PART 2: Law and Institution of the Common Chapter 6: The Law of Property and the Unappropriable Chapter 7: Law of the Common and “Common Law” Chapter 8: The “Customary Law of Poverty” Chapter 9: The Workers’ Common: Between Custom and Institution Chapter 10: Instituent Praxis PART 3: Nine Political Propositions Postscript on the Revolution of the 21st Century Index

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Book SynopsisThis revised second edition of the best-selling handbook provides practical, actionable insights on how to establish a successful photography business in the current climate.Written from the perspective of a photographer''s agent, this book offers the perfect viewpoint to honestly assess what works, what doesn''t, and why some photographers succeed where others fail. Packed with useful templates and advice from leading photographers and commissioners working in all areas of the profession today, industry expert Lisa Pritchard covers all of the essentials: preparing the best portfolio and website; marketing yourself; getting clients; costing and producing shoots; finding representation; financing and running your business; navigating contracts and legal obligations; and more. Updated to take account of shifts in the industry and the increasing importance of digital marketing and social media, this book provides fresh insight and inspiration for the budding and establishTrade ReviewPraise for the first editionBy the end of reading Setting Up A Successful Photography Business I found it to be very informative, helpful and inspiring, with things that I have missed or did not fully understand before. It is presented clearly and written in easy to understand terminologies for anyone that are looking into a career of commercial or editorial photography, but the business discipline is universal to all. I think this book has enough information to get you off the starting line, and pointing you in the right directions, saving you a lot of time what and where you should go and do next. - Sunny Lau, Director and Photographer, www.forty-forty.comI was unsure of where to begin in setting up my own business before but after reading through Setting Up A Successful Photography Business I'm much more confident in knowing the steps I need to take. It's an extremely informative, easy to read book with varied topics covering all areas of starting up a business from the legal side of your career, financing and approaching companies/agencies to building your portfolio and marketing your business. The well-arranged chapters also make it effortless to jump to a particular section if need be. The inclusion of tips and quotes from working photographers adds depth to the book by giving genuine and up to date advice which I found to be very useful. I'd definitely recommend it to anyone wanting to make a career out of photography. - Siobhan Stewart, Photographer, www.siobhanstewart.comTable of ContentsIntroduction 1. What’s it like being a professional photographer? 2. Who buys photography? Where to find your clients 3. What sort of photographer are you? The options 4. The learning curve. Gaining knowledge and experience 5. Making the leap. The transition to becoming a professional photographer 6. Business basics 7. A start up business plan 8. Marketing and promotion. Getting clients 9. Pricing photography 10. The Small Print 11. Organising a photoshoot 12. Industry codes of practice and legal obligations 13. Agents, agencies, libraries and galleries 14. Building your business 15. Tips from the top: Professionals’ advice for success 16. Address Book 17. Business Templates

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Book SynopsisPacked with examples from groundbreaking designers such as Vivienne Westwood, Stella McCartney, Edun and People Tree, A Practical Guide to Sustainable Fashion is a much-needed overview of current models of fashion design and production. Alison Gwilt introduces the key issues associated with the production, use and disposal of fashion clothing and gives step-by-step guidance on how to identify and evaluate the potential impacts of a garment during the design process.With innovative examples of best practice from international designers and brands, the chapters follow each key stage in the life cycle of a fashion garment and explores approaches such as low-impact textiles techniques, mono-materiality, zero waste techniques, upcycling, repair and maintenance techniques and closed-loop design systems.New to this edition: More in-depth coverage of design thinking, materials manufacture, practical techniques for creating faster' recyclable fashion and new ways forward foTable of Contents1. Rethinking fashion design The supply chain The key issues Developments in sustainable fashion The future of fashion Spotlight on: Katharine Hamnett Exercise 1: Reflecting on sustainable fashion 2. The life cycle of a garment Life cycle thinking Activities and impacts Assessment tools and models Sustainable design strategies Spotlight on: Stella McCartney Interview: Amina Razvi Exercise 2: Comparing two garments 3. Design Garment design Spotlight on: Designing for empathy Exercise 3: Designing for empathy Selecting fabrics, materials and techniques Spotlight on: Using mono-materials Interview: Christopher Raeburn 4. Production Pattern-making and toiling Spotlight on: Zero-waste techniques Exercise 4: Working with geometric Construction Spotlight on: Design for longevity Interview: Zoltan Csaki 5. Distribution Suppliers and producers Spotlight on: Engaging with local communities Interview: Lizzie Harrison Retail Spotlight on: Designing for need Exercise 5: Designing for inclusive fashion 6. Use Patterns of use Spotlight on: Reducing laundering Repair and maintenance Spotlight on: Design for repair Exercise 6: Designing modular garments Interview: Joakim Levin 7. End-of-life... Reuse and remanufacture Spotlight on: Upcycling Exercise 7: Personalizing fashion through upcycling Interview: Cynthia Power Material recycling Spotlight on: Closed-loop production Glossary Online resources Student resources Bibliography Index Acknowledgements

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Book SynopsisA visual goldmine for designers of original print, weave and embellishment, Sourcing Ideas for Textile Design will help you generate new ideas, develop them methodically and finally create beautifully designed textiles. The carefully selected range of images illustrate how to use visual information in this process from a variety of sources, breaking down the process into key themes colour, surface, structure, texture and pattern. This second edition includes: case studies and interviews with insight into visual research and development from revered practising designers, including Dries Van Noten and Reiko Sudo; Spotlight sections offer historical or cultural perspectives on each point in the process; and, new coverage of material investigation, colour analysis, presentation and curation, as well as advice on IP and copyright. You'll also be guided through the three stages of textile design where you will: generate your idea; work to Trade ReviewEmbraces craft and technology and real-world insights from innovative and world-leading practitioners. This is an essential reference and a compelling read. * Anne Smith, Professor Emerita, Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London, UK *Provides a unique insight into a broad range of successful textile practitioners, while systematically walking the reader through the design process. It serves as both an inspirational and instructional tool for exploring possibilities. * J.R. Campbell, Executive Director, Design Innovation Initiative, Kent State University, USA *Table of ContentsIntroduction 1. What is Textile Design? 2. The Textile Design Process 3. Develop through Material Investigation 4. Colour 5. Creating Textile Outcomes Conclusion Glossary Bibliography

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Book SynopsisFashion Promotion is an inspiring and practical guide to promoting a brand. It addresses the new ways in which brands engage with customers, through the latest digital channels as well as traditional methods. Topics covered include developing a brand from an original idea, the impact of influencers and street style sites, digital fashion, online and offline marketing techniques, creating the vision behind a brand, and public relations.From marketing, PR and collaboration to creating brand visuals, Fashion Promotion guides readers through the ways in which any brand - large or small - can embrace the opportunities brought about by developments in digital communication, in order to engage with consumers in new and exciting ways.The new edition covers the impact of mobile on fashion retail transactions and marketing, the role for virtual and augmented reality and the increasing importance of sustainable production and distribution.Trade ReviewThis a refreshing update, a wealth of diverse information that is applicable to any Fashion student, on any career level, to take in and move forward in the Fashion Industry. These concepts are well recognized with relevant industry insiders. * Carmen Carter, El Centro College, USA *This book is a comprehensive, though easy-to-read, and up-to-date source on fashion promotion. Covering both creative and managerial aspects and containing case studies, interviews, and exercises; this visually rich book is an excellent read for students and recent graduates of undergraduate fashion programmes. * Nazli Alimen, Birmingham City University, UK *Table of Contents1. Industry and Context Globalization and Market Changes Digital Disruption Retail - Pureplay to Omnichannel Customer-Centric Communications 2. Marketing Understanding the Customer Brand Identity Omnichannel Marketing Data and Analytics 3. Media and PR Media Landscape Product Launches, Experiential and Fashion Shows Building Influencer Relations Creating Content for Multi-Channel Distribution 4. Creating the Vision Photography and Film Styling and Visual Merchandising Curation and Visual Platforms Illustration and Graphics 5. Fashion Future A Changing Industry Mobile Fashion VR/AR – The New Fashion Experience The Future 6. Collaboration and Connection Working with Other Industries Peer Influence Sharing Economy

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Book SynopsisHow do fashion designers design? How does design function within the industry? How can design practices open up sustainable pathways for fashion's future? Designing Fashion''s Future responds to these questions to offer a fresh understanding of design practices within the sprawling, shifting fashion system.Fashion design is typically viewed as the rarefied practice of elite professionals, or else as a single stage within the apparel value chain. Alice Payne shows how design needn''t be reduced to a set of decisions by a designer or design team, but can instead be examined as a process, object, or agent that shapes fashion's material and symbolic worlds. Designing Fashion''s Future draws on more than 50 interviews with industry professionals based in Australia, Asia, North America, Europe, and the United Kingdom. These diverse perspectives from multinational retailers, independent and experimental contexts ground the discussion in contemporary industry practices.Trade ReviewClear-sighted, rich and enlightening: this is a book for our times of change. * Professor Kate Fletcher, Centre for Sustainable Fashion, University of the Arts London, UK *Starting with the question, “can fashion ever be truly sustainable?”, Payne offers a thought-provoking, engaging, and comprehensive examination of today’s fashion systems, sub-systems, and networks and the tactics and practices necessary for system changes. A must-read for all who aspire to fashion themselves and others for a sustainable future. * Leslie Davis Burns, Oregon State University, USA *Dr Alice Payne expands the discourse in fashion and sustainability by articulating exciting concepts such as taming and rewilding fashion. The book takes on the critical task of redefining fashion and fashion design to better empower us to face the challenges in the global fashion system today. * Dr Timo Rissanen, Associate Professor, University of Technology Sydney, Australia *Designing Fashion’s Future is a must to read for all interested in the future of fashion. A comprehensive fashion system is laid out to help us think about the challenges ahead. Fashion must be navigated, disrupted, and modified within the larger world system to evolve into a more sustainable model. * Marilyn DeLong, University of Minnesota, USA *Table of Contents1. Fashion Design Beyond the Designer 2. Fashion Systems Thinking 3. Designers, Named and Nameless 4. Fashion’s Designerly Narratives 5. Designing in Fast Fashion 6. Design for Sustainability as Strategies and Tactics 7. Weightless Fashion 8. Taming Fashion by Design 9. Rewilding Fashion by Design 10. Conclusion

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Book SynopsisSuccessful fashion merchandising, branding and communication start with satisfyingly sensory and interactive shopping experiences. With Kate Schaefer's beautifully illustrated and practical book, learn how retailers create these experiences to connect with shoppers, enhance the retail experience, and achieve brand loyalty.With company highlights from brands such as Amazon Go, FIT:MATCH and Sephora, Swipe, Scan, Shop shows how fashion retailers are embracing the omnichannel retail experience, by using virtual and augmented reality, beacon technologies and facial recognition, among others. As shoppers become more dependent on digital devices as part of their shopping experience, visual merchandisers are adapting by incorporating mobile tech to tell a story, alert shoppers of product locations and inventory levels, and allow for the customization of products and sharing with friends.With a companion website that includes resources and links to further information and videos discussTrade ReviewA very useful read, especially about the technological and experiential advances in visual merchandising. -- Juanjuan Wu, Ph.D., Associate Professor, Retail Merchandising, University of Minnesota, USATable of Contents1. What is Visual Merchandising? Overview of VM What it includes Why it is used (Commerciality) How visual merchandising has progressed 2. The History and Evolution of Visual Merchandising History of visual merchandising Evolution of visual merchandising and display Incorporating digital technologies Successes and Challenges: Translating the “See Now, Buy Now” to the sales floor Company Spotlight: Sephora 3. Visual Merchandising and Omnichannel Retail Enhancing the online shopping experience Social Media and visual merchandising Using mobile devices (Introduce beacon technologies, interactive displays) Mass Customization Company Spotlight: Ted Baker and Google 4. Store Planning and Design What is store planning? Square Footage vs. Selling Space Materials Furniture Software programs/CAD programs Tradeshows (ie. GlobalShop) Company Spotlight: Visual Retailing (MockShop) or Retail Smart 5. Store Interiors Experiential retail Sensory merchandising Sustainability in visual merchandising Heat Mapping (Data Analytics) Dwell Time (Data Analytics) Company Spotlight: Amazon (AmazonGo) 6. Mannequins and Forms Communicating through mannequins and forms The future of mannequins and forms Company Spotlight: Iconome 7. Exterior and Window Displays Interactive Displays: Who, What, Why Infrared Sensors Facial Recognition Virtual Reality Augmented Reality Mobile Commerce Social Media/Mass Customization Conclusion What Might We Expect as the Future of VM?

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Book SynopsisIf you're taking your first steps into the fast-paced world of retail, then merchandiser, store designer, retailer and educator Dimitri Koumbis is the ideal guide. In An Introduction to Fashion Retailing, he'll walk you through everything from the history of retail design, to the intricacies of consumer behavior, fast fashion and corporate social responsibility. You'll also learn professional techniques through detailed case studies of international retailers, including LVMH, Estée Lauder and ASOS.This revised edition includes expanded coverage of omnichannel retail approaches, retail KPIs as well as an outline of future retail trends in brick and mortar, e-commerce and technology. There's also a whole new chapter introducing visual merchandising, expanding on the importance of the store's overall design and visual representation of products.Trade ReviewThe definitive road-map to understand the ever-evolving retail landscape, whether for the interested fashion student or savvy industry stalwart. Koumbis breaks down the often intimidating sea of acronyms and jargon associated with the business of selling, charting retail's course from the first "brick and mortar," the trading post, through to the twentieth century shopping metropolis and the emergence of e-tail empires, all the while analyzing the intricacies of consumer and corporate behavior, and provoking discussion through compelling exercises and case studies. An invaluable conversation-shaping text rich with knowledge and expertise. -- Jackie Mallon, writer FashionUnited.com, educator, author 'Silk for the Feed Dogs'An Introduction to Fashion Retailing provides a fresh look at today’s diverse and continually evolving retail landscape. As an educator I find the case studies, questions, and exercises in each chapter to be a very useful tool for learners to apply new knowledge to real-world scenarios, deepening their understanding. In particular, the content covering retail corporate offices provides a holistic viewpoint on how the various roles and teams within an organization interact to support company strategies, which is a refreshing and unique approach to a topic that is often only discussed in terms of siloed job responsibilities. The trends in retailing discussed are spot on as well, ensuring that instructors and students are aware of changes in the global marketplace such as shifts in consumer demands, the latest developments in physical retail space, as well as the continuing integration of technology into all aspects of the retail sector. This current and relevant information will provide learners with the 21st century knowledge needed to enter the global workforce. -- Ann Mariko Walter, Director - New York City, School of Fashion at Kent State University, USAPraise for the first edition A must-read for anyone interested in a career in retailing. The visuals, case studies, and industry professional interviews aid learning and provide a realistic view into the retailing industry. This book will serve as a resource for years to come. -- Joi Pratt, Adjunct Professor at Berkeley College, New York, USA/ Retail Market Analyst at The NPD Group, Inc.Blend[s] information a student should feel surprised and inspired to learn, along with that sound and instructional information that only an industry professional could know. -- Lyn Caponera, Fashion Instructor, Parsons The New School for Design, New York, USAReads like today’s students think. Add to this writing style a visual layout that is chock-full of lush images and the book becomes, dare I say it… a page turner! -- R. Scott French, Editor in Chief of TheFashionList.com, CFDA DesignerAn easy-to-read and easy-to-understand introductory book on the science of retailing. -- Miguel Martins, University for the Creative Arts - School of Fashion, UKTable of Contents1. What is Retailing? The History of Retail Understanding the Difference between Retailing and the Retailer Classification of Retailers On-Site Vs. Off-Site Retailing Omnipresent Retail Approaches Case study: LVMH 2. Retail Consumer Markets Consumer Behavior Consumer Profiling Site Selection and Store Location Emerging Domestic and International Markets Case study: Estee Lauder Companies 3. Retail Corporate Offices Retail Corporate Offices Corporate Offices and their Role Strategic Planning Supporting Store Teams Ethics and Corporate Social Responsibility Case Study: Hennes & Mauritz 4. Store Management Store Management and the Back of House HR and Employee Management Store Logistics Merchandise Controls and Loss Prevention Case Study: Kering Group 5. Visual Merchandising and Store Design Visual Merchandising vs. Merchandising Store Design and Environment Visual Merchandising Strategies Case Study: Inditex 6. Trends in Retailing Fast Fashion vs. Slow Fashion Ecommerce and the Online Shopper Mobile Retail, Pop-Up and Concept Stores Retailer and Designer Collaborations Technology in the Retail Sector Case Study: ASOS.com

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Book SynopsisIn this essential introduction to contemporary printed textile design, designer and educator Alex Russell explores creative and commercial studio practice, including:- developing sophisticated skills with image and colour- how to make effective use of context in your work- strategies for a career in designYou'll learn how history and technology shape print design, plus how to balance innovation with industry requirements, including fashion, home interiors, giftware and stationery. There's practical advice on developing a professional portfolio, and how good communication skills can get your work noticed. This updated edition includes expanded sections on digital design and social media, and their impact on portfolio development, manufacturing, and promotion, as well as advice on establishing an ethical, sustainable practice for the future.Table of Contents1. An Overview of Printed Textile Design History The Digital Revolution Environmental and Ethical Issues Professional Contexts 2. The Creative Design Process The Brief Research, Development and Final Designs Colour Design Composition 3. Technology, Tools and Professional Practice Printing Technologies and Design Design Tools, Space and Process Professional Practice 4. Designing for the World Design and Industry Design and Global Issues Design and Communication 5. Design Style and Content Design Categories Colourways and Co-Ordinates Balancing Tradition and Innovation 6. Working as a Designer Building Collections Building Portfolios Building a Career Bibliography Glossary Acknowledgements

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Book SynopsisFrom the first sketch to handling a prototype, Fashion Design: The Complete Guide is an all-inclusive overview of the entire design process. This second edition begins with an exploration of fashion in the context of different histories and cultural moments, before fashion designer, and educator John Hopkins walks you through fashion drawing, colour, fibres, research methods, and studio must-knows such as pattern making, draping and fitting. You'll also learn how to develop your portfolio and practice as a professional designer. Each of the six chapters ends with activities to help you hone your skills.Interviewees include Stefan Siegel (founder and CEO of Not Just A Label), Maggie Norris (Founder of Maggie Norris Couture and former designer at Ralph Lauren), Samson Soboye (Creative Director and Founder of Soboye Boutique) and Jessica Bird (a fashion illustrator, whose clients include Vivienne Westwood and matchesfashion.com). With discussion of the evolving role of social mediaTable of ContentsIntroduction 1. Fashion in context Understanding fashion Fashion as change Gender and the body Fashion Histories Orientalism Fashion and modernity Post-modern fashion Supply chain and sustainability Fashion capitals Fashion Identities Fashion as communication Q&A Samson Soboye Discussion questions, Activities, Further reading 2. Visual language of fashion Understanding the fashion Figure Drawing media for fashion Technical Drawings CAD for fashion Fashion Illustration Q&A Jessica Bird Discussion questions, activities, further reading 3. Colour and Fabrics Colour in context Colour theory Colour palettes Fashion and material culture Fibres Fashion fabrics Designing for fabrics Sustainable futures Q&A Andrew Bell Discussion questions, Activities, Further reading 4. Research and design Research for fashion design Creativity and fashion design Object and image analysis in fashion design Research process Sources of research and inspiration Working with sketchbooks Q&A Aurelie Fontan Discussion questions, Activities, Further reading 5. Concept to Prototype The fashion studio Sizing and measurements Pattern making Draping Sewing The toile Fittings and finishes The prototype sample Q&A Maggie Norris Discussion questions, activities, further reading 6. Portfolio and professional practice Professional contexts Fashion design and technology Fashion design portfolio Personal promotion Job roles and career paths Fashion design futures Q&A Stefan Siegel, Not Just A Label Discussion questions, Activities, Further reading Conclusion Appendix Index Acknowledgements Credits

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Book SynopsisType Specimens introduces readers to the history of typography and printing through a chronological visual tour of the books, posters, and ephemera designed to sell fonts to printers, publishers, and eventually graphic designers. This richly illustrated book guides design educators, advanced design students, design practitioners, and type aficionados through four centuries of visual and trade history, equipping them to contextualize the aesthetics and production of type in a way that is practical, engaging, and relevant to their practice. Fully illustrated throughout with 200 color images of type specimens and related ephemera, the book illuminates the broader history of typography and printing, showing how letterforms and their technologies have evolved over time, inspiring and guiding designers of today.Table of ContentsIntroduction 1: Early Broadsides Early broadsides: form and function Pragmatic beginnings - the Ratdolt specimen of 1486 Patterns of circulation Multi-tasking - specimens serving multiple purposes Broadsides: a lasting form 2: Printers’ Manuals Printers' manuals: form and funtion Shaping print culture Establishing shared knowledge and expectations Expanding typographic options Standardizing printing vocabularies Expressing visual styles Evolving tastes Conclusion 3: Foundry Specimen Books Formats and functions Comprehensive documentation Elaborate display Commercial utility Stylistic instruction International circulation Missionary zeal Centers and peripheries Conclusion 4: Industrial Methods and Materials Tools for economizing Saving time, materials and money Standardization of form Organizational redesign - ATF's example Tools for mechanization Reproduction - electrotyping and the pantograph Experiments with machine casting and composition Wood types as "new" tools An American (?) invention Advantages of wood type Advertising at large scale Conclusion 5: Hot Metal Hot metal: how and why Benefits Drawbacks New formats for the specimen Mega-books Loose-leaf binders and supplements 1-line specimens Roles of the specimen Commercial catalogs instruction manuals Display devices for "good" mechanical type Differentiation and cooperation Programmatic world views Conclusion 6: Ephemera New formats Supplements to binder systems Leaflets and brochures Emerging aesthetic trends Revisiting history Defining modernity Networks of circulation Imports, exports and adaptations Cultural specificity and stereotyping Local, specific, and vernacular forms - Cyrillic and Hebrew Conclusion 7: Photographic and Binary Processes Phototype: "inherently superior" "Swift & Exact": how phototypesetting works Typography, dematerialized Attitudes toward technology Inferiority - "the hand is the guide" Innovation - "interesting possibilities" Multiplicity - "for case, matrix, and film" Conclusion - toward a digital future Postlude: Digital Type, Diverse Futures Bibliography Image Credits Index

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Book SynopsisZero Waste Fashion Design combines practical examples, flat patterns and more than 20 exercises to help you incorporate this sustainable technique into your portfolio. There are also beautifully illustrated interviews with innovative designers, including Richard Lindgvist, Mary Beth Bentaha and Daniel Desanto to show how sustainable practice continues to evolve within industry.Industry pioneers, Timo Rissanen and Holly McQuillan, offer flexible strategies and easy-to-master zero waste techniques to help you develop your own cutting-edge fashion designs. This updated edition includes new content on integrating 3D design into a zero waste process, additional coverage of the historical context of zero waste around the world, and expands on the related technique of subtraction cutting to make this the ultimate practical guide to sustainable fashion design.Table of ContentsPreface 1. Zero Waste Fashion Design from History to Now Zero Waste over Time Modern Zero Waste Fashion Design Interview with Lela Jacobs Zero Waste Fashion Design in Research Interview with Maja Stabel Short Cuts 2. Pattern Cutting as a Fashion Design Tool Fashion Design and Pattern Cutting Creative Pattern Cutting Interview with Winifred Aldrich Interview with Rickard Lindqvist Creative Pattern Cutters From Around the World Patterns in Design Ideation Short Cuts 3. Zero Waste Fashion Design: The Basics Criteria for Zero Waste Fashion Design The Design Ideation Toolbox Zero Waste Design Methods Square Cut Garments Tailored Garments Draped Garments Hybrid Practices Zero Waste Design Systems Adapting an Existing Design for Zero Waste Risky Design Practice Designing with the Fabric Width Short Cuts 4. Zero Waste Fashion Design and CAD Marker Making As Design Activity Interview with Julia Banks (Formerly Lumsden) Transforming Zero Waste Design Practice Digital Design Process before 3D Tools The Usefulness of 3D Software for Zero Waste Fashion Design Practice Digital 3D Design Workflow for Zero Waste Design Practice. The Future of Zero Waste Design in a Time of Automation Digital 2D/3D Design Note about the Differences between Tools Digital Tools in Fashion Design Education Case Study: Zero Waste Workshops Digital Tools in the Fashion Industry Case Study: High Price Outdoor Brand: Developing a Digital Prototype of Low Waste Design Using an Existing 2D Pattern Grading and CAD Combining Digital Technologies Digital Tools in Fashion Research Case Study: Zero + One: Developing a Digitized Analogue Drape Design Case Study: Using 3D Software to Develop Zero Waste Whole Garment Weaving Design Workflows Zero Waste Tutorial for 3D Digital Tools Making a Make/Use Coat in 3D Software Things to Consider Interview With Mylène L'Orguilloux – Milan AV-JC Short Cuts 5. Manufacturing Zero-Waste Garments Fashion Design and Fashion Manufacturing Interview with Mary Beth McDermott Sizing Zero Waste Garments Pathway 1: One-Size-Fits-Most Pathway 2: Conventional Grading Pathway 3: Designing Each Size Pathway 4: Mixing Multiple Sizes in a Marker Pathway 5: Using a Different Fabric Width for Each Size Pathway 6: A Hybrid Method Fabric in Manufacturing Zero Waste Garments Cutting Fabric Fabric Selvages Fabric Flaws Short Cuts 6. Zero Waste Fashion Design: Getting Started On Inspiration Interview with Kia Koski Documenting and Reflecting On Design On Sharing Conversation with Yeohlee Teng Zero Waste Fashion Design in Transitions Glossary References Index Acknowledgements Credits

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Book SynopsisDelve into the art of menswear illustration and learn what it takes to create professional, praiseworthy fashion sketches.With over 300 color examples, illustrator and educator Lamont O''Neal uses a mixture of watercolor, marker, pencil and digital tools to help you master fundamentals such as anatomy and proportion. Later chapters focus on garment drawing, the principles of balance and movement as well classic poses and how they can highlight a design.There''s also a guide to the history of menswear illustration, with introductions to some of the most influential practitioners and discussion of how to develop your own individual style by using hand drawing as an expression of individual style and creativity. There are also reference photographs showing how sketches and illustrations relate to the finished garment, making this the ultimate guide to drawing and rendering the male fashion figure.Profiles: Cody Cannon, Carlos Aponte, Mengjie Di, Brian Lane, Ryan McMenamy, Emee MathTrade ReviewAn extensive and enlightening examination of the history of men’s fashion illustration, documented by art and tutorials that inspire. -- Bil Donovan, Fashion Illustrator and Dior Beauty Artist-in-ResidenceA thorough and much-needed book for both the student and professional, Lamont’s illustrations throughout the book make the learning experience an appealing delight. -- Professor Steven Stipelman, Fashion Institute of Technology, USATable of ContentsAcknowledgments Preface Introduction The Fashionable Male: A Brief History in Four Figures 1. Men’s Fashion Illustration: An Overview The Golden Age of Men’s Fashion Illustration The Post-War Years: 1945–1960 The Silver Age of Men’s Fashion Men’s Fashion Illustration Today: 1990– 2. Drawing the Male Fashion Figure What makes a good fashion drawing? What is the difference between a design sketch and a fashion illustration? Proportion Basic anatomy and the simplified construction of the figure The Principal Bones of the Body The Muscles of the Body A Simplified Construction of the Figure The Upper Torso Arms, Legs, Hands and Feet Drawing the Male Head Art Supplies 3. Movement The Balance or Center Front Action Lines Contrapposto Walking Poses Foreshortening Gestures 4. Drawing the Clothed Figure: Creating Dimension Line and Contour Shape Within Shape Mass Directions 5. Drawing the Garment: Details The Basics: Suit and Blazer Outerwear Knits and Sweaters Sportswear Accessories: Hats, Shoes, and Bags 6. Rendering Techniques Color Rendering: Marker, Watercolor, Gouache, Color Pencil Collage and Mixed Media Pattern and Texture: Herringbone, Checks, Plaids, and Stripes, Fur, Tweeds, Knits, Leather, Sheer and Shiny Fabrics Technical Drawings: Flats and Floats 7. Digital Art Converting Hand Drawn Figures into Digital Design Sketches Creating Digital Freehand Drawings Developing Analog and Digital Garment Flats 8. Profiles Cody Cannon Carlos Aponte Mengjie Di Brian Lane Ryan McMenamy Emee Mathew Francisco Cortés Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisPaolo Volonté is Associate Professor of Cultural Sociology, at Politecnico di Milano, Italy, where he teaches the Sociology of Fashion and is Vice-Dean of the PhD Programme in Design. He is co-editor of the International Journal of Fashion Studies.Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Preface Size Conversion Table 1. The Paradox of Nonexistent Fat Fashion 2. Dress and the Body 3. Fashion Discourse: The Tyranny of Slenderness 4. Fashion Practice: The Persistence of the Thin Ideal 5. Fashion Technology: The Sizing System 6. Fashion Politics: The Segregation of Non-Thin Bodies 7. Outlook References Index

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Book SynopsisFashion demands a steady flow of creative ideas. Research and Design for Fashion will guide you through the research techniques that could spark your next original collection.With practical advice on designing effective moodboards, recycling existing garments and getting to know your customer, this new edition will help you master the research process and apply it to your own designs. There''s also a wealth of advice through interviews with exceptional designers, including Christopher Raeburn, ThreeASFOUR and Magdaléna Mikulicáková, as well as updated imagery of the research and design work behind both single garments and entire collections.This fourth edition also explores how cultural events, historical anniversaries and sport influences can be the starting point for a collection. There''s also more on creative ways of recording your findings and designing for menswear, childrenswear and gender-neutral clothing.Trade ReviewA solid foundation for design students to begin their creative journey in an informative and imaginative way, and which delves deep into contemporary issues of experimental cutting, sustainability and new technologies. This is an essential read for any student taking the first step into fashion education and the industry. -- John Lau, London College of Fashion, UKTable of ContentsIntroduction 1. Research—What and Why? What is research? What is the purpose of research? What should research contain? Who are you designing for? Exercise 1: Brainstorming Interview: Veronika Hadjistefanou Interview: Ashish 2. Choosing What to Research Choosing a theme Sources of inspiration Sustainability and ethics Exercise 2: Using primary and secondary research sources Exercise 3: Trends Exercise 4: Recycled garment manipulation Interview: Christopher Raeburn Interview: Dr. Noki 3. Compiling your Research Assembling your research Drawing Collage Analysis of research Sketchbook layout Moodboards Exercise 5: Focus research pages Interview: Magdaléna Mikulicáková Interview: Zowie Broach 4. Designing from your Research Market levels in fashion Genre of clothing Bridging the gap between research and design Model and drape Key elements for design development Design Development Selecting ideas to form a collection Exercise 6: Collaging your research onto figures Exercise 7: Working with the color wheel Exercise 8: Color analysis Exercise 9: Design development Exercise 10: Design development, part 2 Interview: WGSN Interview: Ashley Fletcher 5. Communicating your Ideas Drawing for design Art materials Illustration Technical drawings Layout and composition Beyond the drawing board Exercise 11: Creating a design development six-figure template Exercise 12: Technical drawing by hand Interview: ThreeASFOUR Interview: Shelley Fox Glossary Online resources Bibliography Student resources

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Book SynopsisHow do fashion designers conceive of, develop and ultimately launch commercially and creatively successful collections? Developing a Fashion Collection walks you through the process, exploring research techniques, sources of inspiration, forecasting trends and designing for different markets. From couture to high street, knitwear to accessories and covering the implications of online shopping there''s advice on every aspect of creating your collection through 27 insightful interviews with international practitioners. Interviewees include John Mooney, Brand Creative Director at ASOS and Jane Palmer Williams, Head of Executive Development at LVMH.This 3rd edition also covers silhouette, fittings and final samples, sustainable practice, developing high street collections, fabric selection and finding inspiration through vintage designs.Trade ReviewA feast of visual stimuli, this inspirational guide offers insider information and intelligent references from industry-recognized professionals. -- Hywel Davies, Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London, UKA clear road map with inspiring examples and industry insights, this new edition provides an up-to-date, holistic view of what ought to be considered when building a successful fashion collection. An essential read for our fashion design students. -- Aki Choklat, College for Creative Studies, Detroit, USAThis book demystifies the fundamental process of developing a collection and will be a core text for any fashion design course, and a ‘go to’ for young aspiring fashion designers with its combination of essential terms and best practices. -- Leslie Holden, Co-Founder of the Digital Fashion GroupThis book supports the reader, from how to select research ideas and use them, to developing these ideas into something relevant to the final product. I would recommend to all students. -- Adrien Roberts, Accademia Costume and Moda, Italy and trustee of Graduate Fashion FoundationTable of ContentsIntroduction 1. What is a Collection? How to Start a Collection Market Research Inspiration Fabric Sourcing Silhouette Development Forecasting Trends Archiving Editing Collections The Team Fittings and Samples Showing the collection Interviews: Martin Raymond, The Future Laboratory Steven Philip The Mr. Steven Philip Catherine Teatum & Rob Jones, Teatum Jones Rebekah Roy Joshua Kane 2. Collections and Their Influences Background Historical Cultural Conceptual Functional Political Futuristic Artistic Sustainable Interviews: Fiona Stuart, Rellik Dr. Noki Tracy Mulligan, People Tree Duran Lantink Bianca Saunders 3. Designing for Different Markets Haute Couture Ready-to-wear Designer Labels Luxury Brands Designer Collaborations High Street Online Shopping Interviews: Giles Deacon Sadie Clayton Charles Jeffrey Maria Olofsgard, COS John Mooney, ASOS Jane Palmer Williams, LVMH 4. Specialist Collections Childrenswear Knitwear Print Denim Active Sportswear Corporate wear Interviews: Eva Karayiannis, Caramel Baby & Child Matty Bovan Nicolas Garcia, Roberto Cavalli Charli Cohen Jonathan Cheung, Levi’s Design Will Broome 5. The Student Collection The Brief Your Portfolio Research and Development Presentation Interviews: Saskia Lenaerts Victoria Lyons Megan Greenfield Edie Ashley Lynn Sungurtekin Margret Sam Conclusion

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Book SynopsisThrough ten detailed case studies on groundbreaking brands like Vivienne Westwood, Vera Wang, Levi's, and The Gap Inc., Fashion Brand Stories shows how fashion retailers and designers use storytelling to establish and maintain relationships with their customers.These entertaining case studies explore the evolution of each brand as a cultural entity with its own carefully crafted personality. Aided by interviews with industry professionals, you'll learn how brands start out, grow and encounter success or failure and how to apply those hard-won lessons to your own thoughts on branding. This beautifully illustrated third edition covers the changing role of social media, celebrity endorsements, quality over quantity, and more ethical sourcing, manufacturing, and consumption.Instructor's resources to accompany this edition are available at bloomsbury.pub/fashion-brand-stories-3eTrade ReviewYou don't have to follow fashion to enjoy Fashion Brand Stories ... Reading feels like strolling along a sparkling shopping corridor as Hancock explains how retailers gain prominence, revealing the strategy and mythology behind what we see in the windows. * Broad Street Review *A unique overview of how brands develop, and whether their stories authentically evolve or are cleverly designed. * Dr. Karen Cross, Academic Strategic Lead in the School of Creative and Cultural Business, Robert Gordon University, UK *Fashion Brand Stories is an insightful text for anyone who wishes to understand the importance of design, critical cultural theory, and storytelling as methods of creating fashion brands and a must for creatives and business professionals, who will benefit from its engaging views on consumer brand culture. * Dr. Vicki Karaminas, Professor of Fashion, Massey University, New Zealand *Dr. Hancock gives the reader a book suffused with contemporary (and well-known) brand stories as an engaging introduction to key concepts in fashion and apparel studies. * Dr. Jessica Strübel, Associate Professor, Textiles, Fashion Merchandising and Design, The University of Rhode Island, USA *Table of ContentsPreface 1. Once Upon a Time: Brand/Story Fashion and Popular Culture: Interview with Jessica Strübel What Is Fashion Versus Style? What Is Fashion Branding? Public Relations Branding: Interview with Anne Peirson-Smith Fashion Branding and Storytelling The Goals of this Book Moving Beyond Fashion Brand Stories Discussion Questions Expand Your Knowledge Further Exploration 2. The Past, Present, and Future: A Conceptual Overview Postmodernism, Philosophy, and Theory Putting It All Together: Rhetorical Fashion, Encoding/Decoding, and Hyperreality Postmodern Branding Semantics Hypermodernism and Fashion Forms Meaning and Individual Style Branding and Consumer Theories Context, Consumers, and Meaning Future Consumption of Brands: Interview with Lorynn Divita Cultural Branding Theories Storytelling and Success Brands Lifestyle Merchandising and Emotional Meanings Scouting Future Fashion and Patterns: Interview with Krista Lowther Shifting Views and Consumers Speaking Out Discussion Questions Expand Your Knowledge Further Exploration 3. Democratization of Merchandising: Ralph Lauren History of a Merchandiser The Polo Line Films and Fragrance Redefining the Lifestyle and Going Global Luxury Branding: Interview with David Loranger The Empire Grows Ralph Lauren Home, Out of Africa, and the New York Flagship Store From Exotic Fragrances to the Rugby Store Innovation and Scrutiny Philanthropy and Stardom Discussion Questions Expand Your Knowledge Further Exploration 4. Rebel Brand Style: Vivienne Westwood A Marriage of Music and Fashion Queer and Punk Influence on Brands: Interview with Marvin Taylor Life Changes and Growth God Save the Planet: A Focus on Philanthropy Street Style Success and Subcultural Leadership What Will the Future Hold? Discussion Questions Expand Your Knowledge Further Exploration 5. A Designer of Branded Occasions: Vera Wang Vera Wang: Wedding Expert and Role Model Who Is Vera Wang? Vera Wang’s Branding Story Fashioning Personal Brand Success: Interview with Amanda Buchanan Wang Builds Her Brand Name Vera Wang’s Mass Merchandising The Career Continues Discussion Questions Expand Your Knowledge Further Exploration 6. The Branding of Masstige: The Gap, Inc. Gap History and the Sweat Wall New Fashion Gatekeeping: Individuals of Style and Everyone in Khaki Branding Mass Fashion and Off-Price Retail: Interview with Nancy Mair Into the Twenty-First-Century Groove Labor Controversy and Change Moving Forward Discussion Questions Expand Your Knowledge Further Exploration 7. Celebrity Collaborations and Philanthropy: MAC History of Estée Lauder Estée Lauder Today Branding Sneakers: Interview with Sean Williams Makeup Art Cosmetics: MAC Philanthropic Branding with a Twist: VIVA GLAM Celebrity Endorsement, Collaborations, and Genderless Boundaries Discussion Questions Expand Your Knowledge Further Exploration 8. Retro-Branding: Levi Strauss & Co. History of Levi Strauss & Co. Denim Overalls Become Blue Jeans Street Style Influence: Interview with Brent Luvaas Making Statements: 501 Jeans and Brand/Story Sales, Strategy, and a Return to Heritage Discussion Questions Expand Your Knowledge Further Exploration 9. Branding Affordable Eyecare: Warby Parker The Eyeglasses Market Luxottica Silhouette International and Viva International Marchon and Safilo Charmant, Marcolin, and De Rigo A Branding King of Retail Operations: Interview with Michael J. Edwards Doing Things Differently: Warby Parker Warby Parker Moving Forward with Vision Falling from B Corp Status COVID-19: Being There for Consumers Discussion Questions Expand Your Knowledge Further Exploration 10. Rebranding American Manufacturing: Shinola History of Shinola The Product Line and Education Watches Paper Journals: Edwards Brothers Malloy, Michigan Bicycles: Waterford Precision Cycles, Wisconsin Shinola Jewelry, Leather Goods, and Pet Accessories Sustainable Design and Branding: Interview with Chris Baeza Shinola Controversy “Bougie Crap” and Diversification Discussion Questions Expand Your Knowledge Further Exploration

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Book SynopsisStories of Fashion, Textiles, and Place follows the journeys of five companies with evolving sustainable supply chains in the fashion and textile industry. Each of the profiled companies are committed to advancing cultural traditions of a particular place. They value, honor, and are all deeply rooted in the geography, culture, and people of a specific location and their success is attributable to their connection to that place. With this shared value, their unique stories highlight the conditions, risks, strategies, and successes in creating and maintaining sustainable supply chains for ready-to-wear and home fashions. The companies include:-Imperial Stock Ranch and Shaniko Wool Company Oregon, USA-Angela Damman Yucatán Yucatán, Mexico-Tonlé Phnom Penh, Cambodia-Indigenous Designs Highlands, Peru-Harris Tweed Outer Hebrides, Scotland, UKWith a focus on economic, social, environmental, and cultural sustainability, and the connection between textiles and place, Burns and CarvTrade ReviewAn eye-opening journey into how sustainable fashion companies can build an economy to increase a global workforce, improve lives, preserve cultures, and reduce their environmental impact. -- Elizabeth Shorrock, West Virginia University, USATable of ContentsPreface 1. Sustainable Supply Chains in the Global Fashion Industry Creating Value and Reflecting Values The Value of Place Sustainable Supply Chains Environmental Sustainability Social and Cultural Sustainability Capacity Building and Employee Empowerment Sustainable Communities Cultural Traditions Economic Sustainability Supply Chain Traceability, Assurance, and Transparency Certifications, Industry Associations, and Partnerships Industry Initiatives, Associations, and Partnerships Learning through Narratives References and Resources 2. Imperial Stock Ranch and Shaniko Wool Company: Natural Adaptations Lambing Season Changing a Mindset: Imperial Stock Ranch, Oregon, USA Starting a Yarn Business: Converting Sunlight Energy From Yarn to Finished Items Ready-to-Wear: Imperial Collection by Anna Cohen Sustainable Bridges: East and West, Rural and Urban The Business Naturally Adapts “The Call” The Power of Purpose beyond Profit Expanding Markets Traceability and Certification A Sense of Place References and Resources 3. Angela Damman Yucatán: Advancing Cultural Traditions A Henequén Bag The Yucatán Peninsula Growing Up in Minnesota, USA Moving to Yucatán Sustainable Agriculture: Cultivating and Processing the Fiber Processing the Fiber: Revitalizing an Industry Shredding, Drying, Combing Dyeing Fibers Revitalizing the Fiber Processing Industry Weaving and Product Development: Advancing Cultural Traditions Facilitating Artisan Groups A New Generation of Weavers Markets and Retailing Cultural Sustainability: Identity, Community, and Purpose References and Resources 4. Tonlé The Mekong and Tonlé Sap Rivers Growing Up The Dichotomy of Cambodian Textiles A Reluctant Businesswoman Transition and Rebranding Zero-waste Model The Artisan Workshop Model The Impact and the Message of Tonlé Today and Tomorrow References and Resources 5. Indigenous Designs: Climbing a Mountain Where Have You Been, My Friend? A Brand Is Born Climbing a Mountain Beyond Ecuador The Artisan Co-op Model Economic Sustainability: Financial Strategies Networks, Organizations, and Certifications Documenting and Communicating Impact Next Steps: Scaling an Artisan Ownership Model References and Resources 6. Harris Tweed®: Às an ghearann tha an t-aodach a’ tighinn / From the Land Comes the Cloth Clò Mòr History of the Harris Tweed Industry Harris Tweed Act 1993 and the Harris Tweed Authority Structure and Supply Chain of Harris Tweed Crofting and Wool Production Processing Wool: The Foundation of Harris Tweed Harris Tweed Mills Washing and Dyeing Wool Blending, Carding, and Spinning Wool Preparing the Warp Textile Design Weaving Harris Tweed Harris Tweed Weavers The Weaving Process Finishing and Inspecting Harris Tweed Marketing Harris Tweed: Power of the Orb Marketing Harris Tweed Markets for Harris Tweed: Tradition and Evolution Using the Harris Tweed Label on Finished Products Protecting the Orb From the People Comes the Cloth References and Resources 7. Creating and Reflecting Values through Sustainable Supply Chains The Value of Place in Sustainable Supply Chains The Value of People in Sustainable Supply Chains The Value of Product in Sustainable Supply Chains Characteristics of the Founders, CEO, Partners, and Artisans References and Resources Epilogue and Recommended Reading

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Book SynopsisThe history of the fashion industry has been well written as it relates to people who conform to certain physical norms and cultural stereotypes, whereas the inequality in access to the world of fashion has been largely ignored. Despite this lack of coverage, much work has taken place over the centuries to enable people who live with disability to participate in fashionable culture. This book tells that story via perspectives of notable historical figures, events and movements, and continues the discourse with a look at some of the contemporary developments in clothing and fashion.The Intersection of Fashion and Disability takes the long view, from early attempts to conceal unsightly' bodies of royalty and nobility via creative innovation through growing contemporary awareness of inclusive fashion and how future work can be driven by technology and cultural acceptance.Trade ReviewInfused in a historical context of adapted clothing designs, lies a recurrent reminder to each of us with disabilities that we deserve continued designs to assure our unadulterated inclusion in society. Kate’s decades of dedicated work will enable me, and other Occupational Therapy educators, to proliferate the future of dedicated and skilled therapists to join Kate’s efforts to promote a cultural change in the inclusion of all bodies, despite each person’s uniqueness. May the memory of my friend Birdie Minor continue to shine through many more women with disabilities as they advocate for disability rights adorned in clothing that allows them to feel whole. -- Paige Moore, Licensed Occupational Therapist and Adjunct Faculty at James Madison University and Mary Baldwin University, USAMarginalized fashion consumers are finally given voice in Kate Annett-Hitchcock’s hugely important book. This is fashion history as well as fashion present, the most timely analysis of fashion and disability that we all need to read. -- Dr Kate Strasdin, Senior Lecturer, Cultural Studies, Fashion and Textiles Institute, Falmouth University, UKThe Intersection of Fashion and Disability provides great historical background, which I feel many of my students need before starting to design. -- Grace Jun, Assistant Professor of Graphic Design, University of Georgia, USAFinally! This is the book that I've been waiting for … Annett-Hitchcock's prose is itself a pleasure, and the book does a superb job of making accessible a fashion history for those new to the field, alongside original (and I must say fabulous) research and insights. By moving between case studies, historical narrative, and a dedicated analytic timeline, it moderates between history, aesthetics, economics, and sociology. -- Jessica Burstein, Associate Professor of English, University of Washington, USAAn essential text that illuminates an untold history, while crafting a blueprint for Disabled people to be creators, consumers and a collective within the fashion system. * Sinéad Burke, CEO & Founder, Tilting the Lens *Table of ContentsList of Figures Contributors Preface Foreword Acknowledgements Abbreviations Glossary 1. Establishing Significance Introduction 1.1 Purpose of the book: It’s a fashion story! 1.2 Medical and social models of disability 1.3 Framing of disability fashion history Summary 2. Underpinnings: Events Prior to 1800 Introduction 2.1 Setting the stage for the historical discussion 2.2 Pre-eighteenth century 2.3 Impact of the Age of Enlightenment: 1740-1800 Summary Boxed Profiles: Mrs. Morrell and Miss Hawtin 3. Improvisation and Innovation: 1800-1920 Introduction 3.1 The early to mid-nineteenth century Charitable Organizations 3.2 The late nineteenth century: Effects of war 3.3 The early twentieth century: War, therapy & industry Summary Boxed Profile: Lavinia Warren 4. Rehabilitation, independence & finally fashion: 1930s to early 1970s Introduction 4.1 Impact of work, World War Two and rehabilitation: 1925-1950 4.2 Academic and government funded research: 1950-1973 4.3 Independent designers-Research and practice: 1950-1960 4.4 Connecting research, outreach and small business through independence & civil rights movements: 1960-1973 4.5 Other activist efforts and government initiatives Summary Boxed Profile: Frida Kahlo 5. Individual appearance management between two Acts: 1973-1990 Introduction 5.1 Impact of the 1973 Rehabilitation Act 5.2 Centers and workshops Design Without Limits Center for Universal Design 5.3 Other relevant publications 5.4 The beginning role of retail Summary Boxed Profile: Sunae Park Evans, Senior Costume Conservator, Smithsonian Institution 6. Contemporary Design and Technology Introduction 6.1 The Americans with Disabilities Act 6.2 Fashion design developments in context 6.3 Design interviews Alexandra Palmer on Izzy Camelleri of IZAdaptive Lucy Jones of FFORA Grace Jun of OpenStyleLab Justin LeBlanc on Justin LeBlanc Design 6.4 Do we have a disability design process? 6.5 Harnessing technological developments Summary 7. A Story of disabled makers Introduction 7.1 Disabled makers in history 7.2 The legacy of disabled makers Summary 8. Tying it all together Introduction 8.1 Patterns of success 8.2 Tying it all together 8.3 Where we could be heading 8.4 Disability fashion history timeline

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Book SynopsisFor centuries, the fashion industry has struggled to reconcile style with sustainability. In Historical Perspectives on Sustainable Fashion, you will be transported back in time to discover the historical dimensions of today's sustainable fashion movement. An array of success stories and cautionary tales provide both inspiration and warnings for the eco-conscious designer, encouraging an innovative approach that builds on predecessors' discoveries to move the practice of fashion forward. The 1st edition, Sustainable Fashion: Past, Present and Future, emerged from the Museum at FIT's groundbreaking exhibition Eco-Fashion: Going Green'. This revised edition broadens perspectives even further, incorporating eye-opening examples of designers, brands and activists working for change across the world today. Likewise, a new chapter examines the globalized mainstream fashion system and historical alternatives that provide compelling inspiration for reimagining the status quo.FascTrade ReviewSucceeds in bringing together many of the themes and ideas around ethical fashion. (1st edition) -- CostumeI have really valued this book since it was first published. It is well-written and accessible, but most importantly, through giving the historical perspectives, it shows the antecedents of the issues plaguing fashion now. -- Alice Payne, Queensland University of Technology, AustraliaThe book is aimed at fashion students – its layout, photographs and pitch make it a successful academic text. It is a springboard from which they are invited to delve deeper into the subject. (1st edition) -- Hayley Mildren * Resource *The ecological issues of the present day are pressing and we do not have all the answers. By looking to the lessons of history, fashion designers, manufacturers, consumers and resistors can each gain a deeper understanding of how we got to where we are today, and how we might use past practices as a departure point for radical change and as a sourcebook of inspirational methods to refresh present-day thinking. Through a clear structure, covering Materials and Process, Design and Manufacture, Reuse and Recycling, Labour Practices, and Treatment of Animals, the authors construct a usable past of origin stories and contemporary parallels in the production and consumption of clothing. The historical research sits alongside museum examples of surviving garments, while the contemporary debates engage with the latest arguments and the freshest responses to the urgent need to do fashion differently. By the close of the final chapter, which looks at fashion systems in the round, and encourages imaginative and speculative thinking, readers will be inspired to take up history's gauntlet and find new solutions to fashion's enduring problems. - Annebella Pollen, Professor of Visual and Material Culture, University of Brighton, UKTable of ContentsIntroduction 1. Materials and processes Materials and processes: how did we get here? The development of cotton Wool and its competitors Silk and rayon Synthetic fibers Unconventional materials The invention of synthetic dyes Human impacts of dyeing Environmental impacts of dyeing Materials and processes: inspiration for change Organic cotton The resurgence of wool Hemp and flax Lyocell and bamboo Lower impact dyes Natural dyes Materials and processes: thinking critically Materials and processes: further reading 2. Design and Manufacture Design and manufacture: how did we get here? Clothing production before mechanization Advancements in spinning and weaving The sewing machine and ready-made clothing Choice and disposability Design and manufacture: inspiration for change Wartime restrictions and quality Post-war couture Artisanal techniques and slow fashion5 Design features Design and manufacture: thinking critically Design and manufacture: further reading 3. Reuse and Recycling Reuse and recycling: how did we get here? Repurposing practices Shawls and scraps The Great Depression and the Second World War Shoddy recycling Reuse and recycling: inspiration for change Post-war repurposing The rise of vintage Repurposing and upcycling in the 1990s and 2000 A new era of fiber recycling Reuse and recycling: thinking critically Reuse and recycling: further reading 4. Labor Practices Labor practices: how did we get here? Textile mills Child labor Garment factories Globalization and sweatshops Subcontracting and safety Labor practices: inspiration for change Unionization Labeling Designer-led action Labor rights in a globalized industry Cooperatives and fair trade Labor practices: thinking critically Labor practices: further reading 5. Treatment of Animals Treatment of animals: how did we get here? Feather adornments The use of fur Trapping and farming Treatment of animals: inspiration for change Anti-feather campaigns Anti-fur campaigns Fake and “ethical” fur Treatment of animals: thinking critically Treatment of animals: further reading 6. Fashion systems Fashion systems: how did we get here? Enclosure, capitalism and modernity The European fashion system and the Industrial Revolution Consumerism and change Fashion systems: inspiration for change How clothes are used New approaches to dressing the body Challenging social norms Domestic and custom making Local production and local distinctiveness Restricting and managing production Fashion systems: thinking critically Fashion systems: further reading Conclusion Notes Select bibliography Glossary Index

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Book SynopsisFood Information, Communication and Education analyses the role of different media in producing and transforming knowledge about food. Eating knowledge', or knowledge about food and food practice, is a central theme of cooking classes, the daily press, school textbooks, social media, popular magazines and other media. In addition, a wide variety of actors have taken on the responsibility of informing and educating the public about food, including food producers, advertising agencies, celebrity chefs, teachers, food bloggers and government institutions. Featuring a range of European case studies, this interdisciplinary collection advances our understanding of the processes of mediatization, circulation and reception of knowledge relating to food within specific social environments. Topics covered include: popularized knowledge about food carried over from past to present; the construction of trustworthy knowledge in today's food risk society; critical assessment of nutrition eduTrade ReviewThis book investigates how knowledge about food is developed, disseminated and digested in diverse Western European contexts. Chapters critically examine beliefs about child and elderly nutrition, diabetes, gluten-sensitivity, vitamins and other dietary issues where medical experts, media brokers, scientists and educators promote concepts not only of good eating, but also of health and compliant citizenship. The book provides provocative insights into how food knowledge undergirds political policies, educational practices and nutrition advice. * Carole Counihan, Professor Emerita of Anthropology, Millersville University, USA and Editor-in-Chief of Food and Foodways *Scholars and activists have long emphasized the importance of “knowing where food comes from” while paying too little attention to the question of where knowledge about food comes from. Stepping into the gap is this ambitious collection of internationally diverse, interdisciplinary essays exploring what people know about eating, what they do with that knowledge and the broader politics of knowledge, authority and legitimacy that shape both. * Charlotte Biltekoff, Associate Professor of American Studies & Food Science and Technology, University of California, Davis, USA *Susan Kovacs and Simona De lulio have composed a flavorful book, pleasant to read, with a rich diversity of contexts, objects and approaches. It may therefore be of interest to researchers from any area who are sympathetic to human and social sciences. -- Cristina Romanelli, Universidad de Lille * Revista CENTRA de Ciencias Sociales *This collection is for anthropologists, historians, sociologists, and education specialists interested in the ways our knowledge of food is shaped by others, and how we in turn shape that knowledge ... This collection begins to tease out these complexities, making it a valuable addition to food studies. -- Lexi Earl, University of Oxford * Gastronomica *Table of ContentsList of Figures Contributors Acknowledgments Introduction, Simona De Iulio (University of Lille, France) and Susan Kovacs, (Enssib Library and Information Science School, Villeurbanne, France) Part I: Construction and Circulation of 'Eating Knowledge': Mediators and mediations 1. Athena, Jesus Christ and the Traffic light. History and Anthropology of Olive Oil, Elisabetta Moro, (University of Naples, Italy) 2. Strategies for disseminating dietetics: The health regimen as medical book genre in seventeenth-century France, Justine Le Floc'h, (Sorbonne University, France) 3. Projecting savoir-faire in the French classroom: Nutrition filmstrips, 1930–70, Didier Nourrisson, (University of Lyon, France) 4. Changing Public Health Recommendations for Older People: from Curbing Excess to Battling Undernutrition, Laura Guérin, (Max Weber Centre, France) 5. Food in the Workplace, where Productivity Meets Well-Being: a Contemporary Question?, Thomas Heller and Elodie Sevin, (University of Lille, France) 6. Knowledge, Information and Mediations in Tension: a Decade of Food Scandals and Controversies, François Allard-Huver, (University of Lorraine, France) Part II: Uses and Appropriations of ‘Eating Knowledge’ in Everyday Practices 7. From Disciplining Bodies to Patient Education: Changing Diabetics' Eating Habits in the Nineteenth and Twentieth Centuries, Vincent Schlegel, (The School for Advanced Studies in the Social Sciences (EHESS), Paris, France) 8. The Dietary Consultation Session as a Place for Mediating Food Knowledge, Viviane Clavier, (University of Grenoble-Alpes, France) 9. Information Practices and Knowledge Appropriation Among Gluten-Sensitive Individuals, Virginie Wolff, (University of Strasbourg, France) 10. Vitamins in Food Advertising and School Resources, 1950 to the Present: Between Prevention and Health-Capital Approaches, Simona De Iulio (University of Lille, France), Laurence Depezay (University of Lille, France), Susan Kovacs, (Enssib Library and Information Science School, Villeurbanne, France), Denise Orange Ravachol, (University of Lille, France), and Christian Orange, (Free University of Brussels (ULB) Belgium) 11. The Circulation of Knowledge about Food in Schools, Marie Berthoud, (University of Lille, France) 12. Developing a Reasoned Approach to Food Education Through Science Teaching, Denise Orange Ravachol, (University of Lille, France) and Christian Orange, (Free University of Brussels (ULB) Belgium) 13. When 'Healthy' Eating becomes a Political Issue: Parents’ Association School Canteens in Andalusia, Spain, Philippe Cardon, (University of Lille, France) and María Dolores Martín-Lagos López, (University of Granada, Grenada) Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisRethinking Fashion Globalization is a timely call to rewrite the fashion system and push back against Eurocentric dominance within fashion histories by presenting new models, approaches and understandings of fashion from critical thinkers at the forefront of decolonial fashion discourse.This edited collection draws together original, diverse, and richly reflective critiques of the fashion system from both established and emerging fashion scholars, researchers and creative practitioners. Chapters straddle current calls for decolonization and inclusion, as well as reflections on de-westernization, post-colonialism, sustainability, transnationalism, national identities, social activism, global fashion narratives, diversity, and more. The volume is divided into three key themes, ''Disruptions in Time and Space'', ''Nationalism and Transnationalism'' and ''Global Design Practices''. These themes re-map fashion's origins, practices and futures, to present alternatives for reclaiming aTrade ReviewThis timely, vital book showcases the plurality of fashion systems, cultures and industries, across time and space. -- Alice Payne, Associate Professor of Fashion at Queensland University of Technology, Brisbane, AustraliaLeads the way in responding to the current surge of transdisciplinary interest across universities all over the world in key issues of decolonization, post-colonialism, national identity, social activism, global fashion narratives and diverse voices. Chapters are brimming with fresh, in-depth and meticulous research examining these issues through the vehicle of clothing, dress, fashion, textiles, and their media presence. The book’s many images enable the reader to make full sense of the texts. -- Prof Emerita Lou Taylor, University of Brighton, UKTable of ContentsForeword - Angela Jansen (Chair of the Research Collective for Decolonizing Fashion) 1. Introduction: Decolonial Critiques of Fashion Globalization and De-Globalization (co-authored by the editors) Section I: Disruptions in Time and Space Introduction – Sarah Cheang (Royal College of Art, UK) 2. Kimono Migrating Across Borders: A Preliminary Study into the Discovery of Waso Culture Outside of Japan - Yoko Takagi (Bunka Gakuen University, Japan) & Saskia Thoelen (Bunka Gakuen University, Japan) 3. East Asian Global Connections and Fashion Histories - Sarah Cheang (Royal College of Art, UK) and Elizabeth Kramer (University of Northumbria, UK) 4. Surinamese Kotomisi: Multiple Identities of Fashion - Daan van Dartel (National Museum of World Cultures, the Netherlands) 5. Coats and Trousers: Redrawing the Map to Rescript the Narrative - Abby Lillethun (Montclair State University, USA) and Linda Welters (University of Rhode Island, USA) Section II: Nationalism and Transnationalism Introduction – Erica de Greef (independent fashion curator, Cape Town, South Africa) 6. #OWNYOURCULTURE – Decolonising Fashion Through Traditional Jewelry - Chepkemboi J Mang’ira (OwnYourCulture, Nairobi) 7. Kawaii Fashion Discourse in the 21st Century: Transnationalising Actors - Kyoko Koma (Meiji University, Japan) 8. Melancholia at the Margins: Place and History in the Fashion of Aotearoa New Zealand - Harriette Richards (Western Sydney University, Australia) 9. Negotiating Identities: The Fashion of Nyonyas in Early Twentieth Century Singapore – Courtney R. Fu (National University of Singapore) Section III: Global Design Practices Introduction – Yoko Takagi (Bunka Gakuen University, Japan) 10. Creative Collaborations between Consumers and Fashion Designers: The Role of Fashion Posters in Urban and Rural Ghana. Malika Kraamer (University of Leicester, UK) & Osuanyi Quaicoo Essel (University of Education Winneba, Ghana 11. State of Fashion: Searching for the New Luxury. Imagination, Sustainability, Embodied Practice, Craft Revival, New Narratives - Jose Teunissen (University of the Arts London, UK) 12. Making the Ordinary Fashionable: New Sartorial Languages from Russia and China - Hazel Clark (Parsons School of Design, USA) and Alla Eizenberg (Parsons School of Design, USA) 13. Body Mapping: Cross Cultural Influences in the Studio - Jenny Hughes (University of the Creative Arts Rochester, UK)

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Book SynopsisSince the democratisation of the clothing industry in the early 19th century, buyers have become increasingly disconnected from the creative and human aspects of the production of clothing. Arguably clothing is now valued less for its aesthetic qualities or because of the hours spent in its making, but more for the extent to which it serves current fashion'. In a climate of increasing anxiety about the environmental and social impact of the contemporary global fashion industry, Rachel Worth suggests that, rather than seeking solutions only in the present, looking to history can assist in understanding better the challenges consumers face today in making decisions about the contents of their wardrobes, which, in turn, will impact on the nature of the future global fashion industry. She does not seek to offer simplistic historical solutions to contemporary problems, but explores ways in which it might be possible to bridge divides between knowledge of the past, current individual choiceTrade ReviewThe social, cultural and physical entanglement of attire with status, aspiration and livelihood is vividly articulated in this rich discourse. Drawing on the work of great poets and writers including Clare and Hardy, the reader is drawn into a reflection on the relational aspects of being human in a more than human world. * Dilys Williams, Centre for Sustainable Fashion, UK *Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Introduction 1. The Hidden Language of Clothing Nursery Rhymes, Fabric and Clothing Rhymes about Clothing and Class Rhymes with an Advisory or Cautionary (Clothing) Theme Rhymes about Clothing Poverty 2. From Democratisation to Fast Fashion Technological Change and the Cotton Industry Developments in the Making and Retailing of Ready-made Clothing Adoption of the Sewing Machine Retailing Revolution (I) The Democratisation of Shoe Production Retailing Revolution (II) Democratising Colour 3. Sustainability and Clothing in Context The Emergence of Fashion The Road to Fast Fashion The Backlash Against Fast Fashion The Fabric of Fashion Conundrum Transparency on the Label The Use of Fur and Feathers 4. The Human Factor: Clothing, Growth and Alternative Economic Paradigms ‘Sweating’ and the Fight for a Minimum Wage The Move to Outsourcing The ’Economics’ of Fast Fashion 5. Clothing, Nature and the Environment Clothing in Pastoral Narratives Nature Fights Back Nature and the Arts and Crafts Movement 6. Philosophies of Dress Oscar Wilde: The Philosophy of Dress Mary Eliza Haweis; The Art of Dress Eric Gill: Clothes Conclusion Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisHow has the fashion industry responded to turn-of-the-millennium non-binary identities? Do they have a supportive or exploitative relationship with queer, trans and ageing subjects? Fashion, Identity, Image unpacks these questions and many more in relation to clothing and representation, identity and body politics in British, European and American culture between 1990 and 2020. Jobling, Nesbitt and Wong explore issues of intersectionality and inclusivity through groundbreaking shows, including Maria Grazia Chiuri's We Should All Be Feminists' catwalk show for Dior (Spring-Summer 2017), Alexander McQueen's The Widows of Culloden' collection (Fall-Winter 2006), and the role of transgender models such as Oslo Grace since 2015. Looking to the future of our relationship with fashion, there''s also an investigation of the android as a redemptive figure in Alessandro Michele's cross-cultural cyborg collection for Gucci (Autumn-Winter 2018/2019) and the impact of the ageing pTrade ReviewGives currency to the importance of fashion as an arbiter of change at a time when the multiplicity and fragmentation of gender is affecting the ways we perceive and experience our bodies and our identities. Its contents will incite ideas and heated debates and I am sure it will be a book whose pages will be well-thumbed and whose subject matter will make for long and passionate arguments and conversations. -- Vicki Karaminas, Massey University, New ZealandUtilizing recent and historic examples, the authors offer a robust account of the role of the fashion industry in creating age, race, gender, and posthuman identities, both actual and fantastic. I finished this book with inspiration for my teaching and research. -- Andrew Reilly, University of Hawai`i, Manoa,Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Acknowledgements Introduction 1. Authoring Fashion, Intersecting Sex and Gender Introduction Maria Grazia Chiuri’s ‘We Should All Be Feminists’ T-Shirt for Christian Dior: Branding, identity and authorship Between the womb and the gay parade: Alexander McQueen’s ‘The Widows of Culloden’ as poetic text Subverting the symbolic order: McQueen’s abject woman Conclusion: Squaring up to the phallic mother Notes 2. Written on the body: Fashion, clothing and age Introduction ‘Active ageing’, youthfulness and fashion ‘Fashion For All Ages’ and the new old model army Race and reversing convention Conclusion: From idiotic methods to the realities of time and place Notes 3. (Un)Gendering the runway Introduction Forerunners of transgender and non-binary identities in fashion The advent of transgendered models The abject trans-model Between abjection and acceptance ‘Come into the (trans)garden’: The heterotopia of fashion The authentic self Other models: Intersectionality and wider diversity in the fashion industry Tokenism versus activism Conclusion: Between tokenism and authenticity Notes 4. Loving the alien: Fashion and cyborg identities Introduction Andrea Giacobbe and ‘Simplex Concordia’ Alessandro Michele and the Gucci Cyborg Compromising race and diversity A ‘genuine cyborg manifesto’? Conclusion: Towards emancipatory possibilities Notes Epilogue

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Book SynopsisHow has the fashion industry responded to turn-of-the-millennium non-binary identities? Do they have a supportive or exploitative relationship with queer, trans and ageing subjects? Fashion, Identity, Image unpacks these questions and many more in relation to clothing and representation, identity and body politics in British, European and American culture between 1990 and 2020. Jobling, Nesbitt and Wong explore issues of intersectionality and inclusivity through groundbreaking shows, including Maria Grazia Chiuri's We Should All Be Feminists' catwalk show for Dior (Spring-Summer 2017), Alexander McQueen's The Widows of Culloden' collection (Fall-Winter 2006), and the role of transgender models such as Oslo Grace since 2015. Looking to the future of our relationship with fashion, there''s also an investigation of the android as a redemptive figure in Alessandro Michele's cross-cultural cyborg collection for Gucci (Autumn-Winter 2018/2019) and the impact of the ageing pTrade ReviewGives currency to the importance of fashion as an arbiter of change at a time when the multiplicity and fragmentation of gender is affecting the ways we perceive and experience our bodies and our identities. Its contents will incite ideas and heated debates and I am sure it will be a book whose pages will be well-thumbed and whose subject matter will make for long and passionate arguments and conversations. -- Vicki Karaminas, Massey University, New ZealandUtilizing recent and historic examples, the authors offer a robust account of the role of the fashion industry in creating age, race, gender, and posthuman identities, both actual and fantastic. I finished this book with inspiration for my teaching and research. -- Andrew Reilly, University of Hawai`i, Manoa,Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Acknowledgements Introduction 1. Authoring Fashion, Intersecting Sex and Gender Introduction Maria Grazia Chiuri’s ‘We Should All Be Feminists’ T-Shirt for Christian Dior: Branding, identity and authorship Between the womb and the gay parade: Alexander McQueen’s ‘The Widows of Culloden’ as poetic text Subverting the symbolic order: McQueen’s abject woman Conclusion: Squaring up to the phallic mother Notes 2. Written on the body: Fashion, clothing and age Introduction ‘Active ageing’, youthfulness and fashion ‘Fashion For All Ages’ and the new old model army Race and reversing convention Conclusion: From idiotic methods to the realities of time and place Notes 3. (Un)Gendering the runway Introduction Forerunners of transgender and non-binary identities in fashion The advent of transgendered models The abject trans-model Between abjection and acceptance ‘Come into the (trans)garden’: The heterotopia of fashion The authentic self Other models: Intersectionality and wider diversity in the fashion industry Tokenism versus activism Conclusion: Between tokenism and authenticity Notes 4. Loving the alien: Fashion and cyborg identities Introduction Andrea Giacobbe and ‘Simplex Concordia’ Alessandro Michele and the Gucci Cyborg Compromising race and diversity A ‘genuine cyborg manifesto’? Conclusion: Towards emancipatory possibilities Notes Epilogue

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Book SynopsisLand rights and land reform were central elements of colonial history. This book looks at their significance for British colonial policy in Nyasaland (modern Malawi), and how the British government tried to prevent discontent among Africans living or working on European-owned private estates. The first section outlines the political and geographical context, the original acquisition of land by foreigners the restriction of the indigenous population to Trust Lands, against a background of rising labour demand, population pressure and discontent. In 1948 Geoffrey Colby was appointed Governor. He was aware of the potentially explosive nature of these issues, and the book describes his policy of land purchase and the abolition of the hated thangata system, by which African tenants paid their foreign landlords annual rent in money or labour. The conclusion emphasises the racial conflict inherent in the employment of indigenous labour on foreign-owned land and summarizes the steps taken to p

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Book SynopsisSingapore gained independence in 1965, a city-state in a world of nation-states. Yet its long and complex history reaches much farther back. Blending modernity and tradition, ideologies and ethnicities, a peculiar set of factors make Singapore what it is today. In this thematic study of the island nation, Michael D. Barr proposes a new approach to understand this development. From the pre-colonial period through to the modern day, he traces the idea, the politics and the geography of Singapore over five centuries of rich history. In doing so he rejects the official narrative of the so-called ''Singapore Story''. Drawing on in-depth archival work and oral histories, Singapore: A Modern History is a work both for students of the country''s history and politics, but also for any reader seeking to engage with this enigmatic and vastly successful nation.Trade ReviewThe meritocratic ideology of Singapore has begun to show signs of wear, and its elite seems incapable of regenerating itself as that of the PRC does. Lee [Kuan Yew]’s pioneer generation – the ‘Men in White’ – has given way to an ever more circumscribed stratum, a process which Michael Barr, the leading historian of modern Singapore, examines in rich detail. * London Review of Books *In this well-researched and clearly argued book, the highly respected Australian scholar Barr (Flinders Univ., Australia) challenges the entire “Singapore Story” through a thematically organized revisionist history of Singapore from its earliest times into the 21st century … Barr builds his argument on extensive archival research and mastery of secondary scholarly and popular publications, including government-issued textbooks that promulgate the official “Singapore Story.” Summing Up: Highly recommended. Upper-division undergraduates through faculty. * CHOICE *Dr. Barr is a very talented writer. His intellect and more nuanced perspectives come through in this book, in which the content dives deep into Singapore’s history from a political, geographic, and economic view … If you want a very real and well-researched academic historical book, don’t miss out on this one! * Singapore Politics: Blog *‘Michael Barr does the study of Singapore a great service with this path-breaking book. He debunks the ascendant account of Singapore’s modern history to explain so much more about how and why this city-state developed as it did. Barr breaks decisively from the prevailing orthodoxy serving elite political interests to highlight struggles, forces and dynamics fundamental in shaping modern Singapore.’ * Garry Rodan, Professor of Politics and International Studies, Murdoch University *‘Michael Barr’s “Modern History” of Singapore offers a refreshingly candid counter-narrative to “The Singapore Story”. Broad, bold and brazen, Barr’s self-consciously revisionist history of Singapore breaks away from the dominant meta-narrative of the Singapore state and its elites. It offers readers a succinct, thematic (and dramatic) history of Singapore that emphasises the continuities that transcend the “Founding moment” of 1819 and situate Singapore’s growth and development within a larger regional and global framework. This is not a history for data-miners or squirrels of historical minutiae but for those who seek to better understand the land, idea and country that is Singapore.’ * Kevin YL Tan, Executive Editor, Asian Journal of Comparative Law and Professor (Adjunct), Faculty of Law, National University of Singapore *Barr offers insights into Singapore history that no other historian can give scholars and students. Singapore: A Modern History deserves a prominent place alongside the works of other historians who have also embarked on this most challenging task of writing a general history of Singapore. * Australian Journal of Politics and History *Table of ContentsList of Maps List of Figures Foreword by Carl A. Trocki Prologue Acknowledgements List of Abbreviations Glossary of Asian-Language Terms Timeline 1. Let's Talk About 1819: Reorienting the National Narrative 2. The Idea of Singapore 3. Singapore Central: The Role of Location in Singapore's History 4. Governance in Premodern Singapore 5. Governance in Modern Singapore, 1867–1965 6. Governance in Independent Singapore 7. The Economy: Singapore, Still at the Centre 8. Making Modern Singaporeans: People, Society and Place Afterword Notes Bibliography Index

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