Fashion and textile design Books

Book Synopsisi-D began as a fanzine dedicated to the street style of punk-era London in 1980 and quickly earned its position at the vanguard of fashion and style, abiding by the premise of “originate—don’t imitate.” This anniversary volume is the ultimate tribute to the irreverent and forward-thinking magazine that revolutionized not only the world of fashion publishing but fashion itself. Over the 40 years since its launch, i-D has grown from a hand-stapled zine to one of the world’s leading international style titles with two million Instagram followers. Founded by Terry Jones in 1980, i-D began as a chronicle of style and attitude as much as a fashion bible, and over the years it has kept to that ethos, in the process becoming a nurturing ground for gener-ations of fashion talents, from David Sims to Juergen Teller, Edward Enninful to Wolfgang Tillmans, Tyler Mitchell to Harley Weir.This cTrade Review"A 40th anniversary rates a celebration, and that is exactly we have been invited to attend. i-D Wink and Smile!: The First Forty Years is a visual smorgasbord of a once cutting-edge leaflet that has sustained, evolved, and maintained one of the trendiest and most erudite readerships of a generation...This masterful tome brilliantly chronicles the publication, decade by decade, and should remind all readers that London is still a laboratory/pressure cooker for fashion and its tangential aspects. McKimm has proven himself a clairvoyant on so many levels. Throughout this major oeuvre we are reminded of just what made i-D a driving juggernaut in print media, with 11 international editions. It continues to raise the bar year after year...Whether the reader is focused on fashion, photography, trends, or just the latest and greatest, this is a book that must be added to their fashion library." —NEW YORK JOURNAL OF BOOKS"To create i-D: Wink and Smile!: The First Forty Years, McKimm spent two years combing through the magazine’s 40-year archive. The book, published this month by Rizzoli, is broken down by decade and definitely proves i-D has always had its finger on the pulse of culture. It features profiles of an 18-year-old Gisele Bündchen, a young Björk in 1996, and Chloë Sevigny in 1995, before she was in Kids, as well as fashion editorials from British Vogue’s current editor-in-chief, Edward Enninful, back when he was a fashion director for the magazine in the early aughts." —NEW YORK MAGAZINE"The book, edited by [Alastair] McKimm, offers a 360-degree summary of the magazine's history and cultural impact over the years....Divided by decade, the book features a mix of original spreads and covers of the magazine, with images of Rihanna, Madonna, Amy Winehouse, Björk, Vivienne Westwood, Naomi Campbell and Justin Bieber. It includes the work of Enninful, Teller, David Sims, Wolfgang Tillmans, Tyler Mitchell and Harley Weir. Priced at $75, the new book also includes reprinted stories and archival imagery. There are also reflections by Moss, Helmut Lang, Sade, Raf Simons, Victoria Beckham, Jeremy Scott, and Phoebe Philo about being in front of the camera during their careers. There is also a celebratory poster." —WOMEN'S WEAR DAILY

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Book SynopsisProviding detailed analysis of the thermal comfort assessment of clothing as the basis for developing standards, this book discusses the thermal protective role of clothing as a way of modelling heat transfer from the body, general thermal regulation of humans, and the importance of globally accepted test methods and standards to improve quality. New materials and discoveries in the study of thermal comfort necessitate the need for standard improvements and update. The development of international standards and the unification of testing methods is of crucial significance to ensure cost reduction and health protection. The book promotes instruments, methods, implementation of unified specifications, and the definition of standards so that a clear quality management system can be established, for both production systems and testing methods. It discusses standards in ergonomics of the thermal environment, clothing thermal characteristics, and subjective assessment of thermal coTrade Review"This book shows the importance of modeling heat losses from the human body as an important factor in optimizing the comfort of clothing, as well as the need for assessment of thermal comfort and standardization of the related testing methods…Except for chapters 2 and 3, where some quantitative analysis is presented, the treatment here is straightforward and descriptive. The book is just right for interested general readers with some knowledge of physics."--S. D. El Wakil, emeritus, University of Massachusetts Dartmouth, CHOICE Table of Contents1. Introduction. 2. Behind the Scenes: Thermal Regulation in Humans. 3. Modelling the Heat Losses from the Human Body. 4. The Importance of Globally Accepted Test Methods and Standards. 5. The Standardization on Thermal Comfort. 6. Who Creates Standards? 7. The Standardisation on Thermal Comfort. 8. The Distribution of Standards on Thermal Comfort. 9. The Overview of the Most Significant Standards on Thermal Comfort. 10. Conclusion. 11. References. 12. Dictionary: Basic Terms and Units.

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Book SynopsisWinner of the Association of Dress Historians Book of the Year Award, 2021In 1939, fashion became an economic and symbolic sphere of great importance in France. Invasive textile legislation, rationing and threats from German and American couturiers were pushing the design and trade of Parisian style to its limits. It is widely accepted that French fashion was severely curtailed as a result, isolated from former foreign clients and deposed of its crown as global queen of fashion. This pioneering book offers a different story. Arguing that Paris retained its hold on the international haute couture industry right throughout WWII, eminent dress historians and curators come together to show that, amid political, economic and cultural traumas, Paris fashion remained very much alive under the Nazi occupation and on an international level.Bringing exciting perspectives to challenge a familiar story and introducing new overseas trade links out of occupied FrancTrade ReviewEssential reading for all students of fashion history in this period. It will undoubtedly endure as a definitive work on the subject of Parisian haute couture during German occupation and serve as a critical guide for the reassessment of fashion history during the wartime era. * The Journal of Dress History *If readers are looking for high-quality, colorful, and plentiful reproductions of wartime fashion items (gowns, hats, lingerie, shoes etc.) as well as historic photographs and art reproductions, they will find them in ... Paris Fashion and World War Two. ... Anyone attracted to the rise of fashion as an indelible part of twentieth-century modernity and interested in an informed, analytical approach to the social and aesthetic implications of fashion development will find that [this volume] offer[s] much to readers. * H-Soz-Kult *The book provides an excellent source on global fashion networks in wartime, and the ways fashion is disseminated and adapted within particular cultures, while acting as inspiration for further investigations of these fascinating and important international histories. * Cultural and Social History: The Journal of the Social History Society ISSN: *Stimulating, analytical, at times very moving, and enhanced by a judicious choice of illustrations. It will become a standard work, one that I cannot recommend highly enough. * Colin McDowell, author of 'The Literary Companion to Fashion' and contributor to The Business of Fashion website *An extraordinary achievement … it transforms our picture of Paris fashion under the Nazi Occupation. * Valerie Steele, Director and Chief Curator at the Museum at FIT, New York, USA *Bringing together an international cast of scholars and gorgeously illustrated, Paris Fashion and World War Two will become the standard reference on the subject. * Steve Zdatny, University of Vermont, USA *A ‘must read’. It is a kaleidoscopic history of the contradictions faced by those who made, sold and wore luxury fashions during the darkest years of the war. * Alexandra Palmer, Royal Ontario Museum, Canada *This book is a rarity in fashion scholarship in that it tells a story that engages the heart as much as the head, a story of human courage in the face of a great evil. * Brenda Polan, author of 'The Great Fashion Designers' *Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Acknowledgements Notes on Contributors Introduction: Lou Taylor and Marie McLoughlin 1. From Berlin to Paris Lou Taylor 2. The Lyon haute nouveauté fashion textile industry during World War Two: design, making, exhibition and diffusion Lou Taylor 3. The Impact of Shortages on Couture Fashion Accessories in Paris, 1940-44 Dominique Veillon 4. 'Much News from the Fashion Front’ – Swedish Neutrality and the Diffusion of Paris Fashion during World War Two Ulrika Kyaga 5. From Paris to New York: the methods used by Paris haute couture to maintain its domination on the fashion world on both sides of the Atlantic, 1939-46, through women’s magazines Sophie Kurkdjian 6. The Fashion worlds of Paris and the USA during World War Two: competition, contact and business, 1939-45 Sandra Stansbery Buckland 7. Lisbon as a centre of couture fashion in World War Two and its Paris and international connections Alexandra Gameiro and Lou Taylor 8. Fashion in Denmark in the ‘Five Dark Years' Kirsten Toftegaard 9. The diffusion, reception and use of Paris style information by the press and haute couture salons in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, 1939-45 Claudia de Oliviera 10. Annexed, Neutral and Occupied – The Paris Influence on Couture Fashion in Austria, Switzerland and Belgium Lou Taylor 11. 1944: London plans to become the ‘Meridian’ of world fashion Marie McLoughlin 12. Paris Fashion: An international product for an international clientele Marie McLoughlin with post-script by Nancy Yeide 13. The business of Paris couture from Liberation to Rejuvenation. Late August 1944 to February 1947 Lou Taylor with Marie McLoughlin 14. The End of the War in Europe: Rejuvenating the International Business of Paris haute couture Lou Taylor with Marie McLoughlin Conclusion: Marie McLoughlin and Lou Taylor with post script: A Letter from Nuremberg, 1946, Lou Taylor Index

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Book SynopsisSara B. Marcketti is Director of the Center of Excellence in Learning and Teaching and Professor of Apparel, Events, and Hospitality Management at Iowa State University, USAElena E. Karpova is Putnam and Hayes Distinguished Professor of Consumer, Apparel, and Retail Studies at the University of North Carolina at Greensboro, USATrade ReviewAs leaders in their field, Karpova, Marcketti, and their impressive roster of authors were uniquely qualified to take on the task of creating this compilation of contemporarily significant studies on the most pressing, interconnected challenges in the modern fashion system. Readers of The Journal of Dress History will find this book to be a valuable resource to turn to when examining garments, the conditions under which they were made, and the questions that arise from their production and consumption. * The Journal of Dress History *The Dangers of Fashion convincingly dissects the complexities of the challenges and solutions for achieving an ethical and sustainable fashion industry that spans cultures with differing values, world views, and profit motives. The authors’ narratives point out that no single segment of the industry, whether fiber and apparel production, retailing, or consumption, can stand alone in effecting change. This book, with its critical integrative focus, should be required in all fashion programs. * Mary Littrell, Colorado State University, USA *This book brilliantly weaves together the fashion system’s harmful and ethical uncertainties. The reader is given threads of knowledge as well as reasons for hope and urgency in what should be required reading for all. * Connie B Ulasewicz, San Francisco State University, USA *The Dangers of Fashion strays into territories all too often ignored by other texts, that of the ethics and morals of producing fashion, with chapters on counterfeiting and cultural appropriation. Texts cover topics from earth to dirt and all the processes in between through a range of contributors that span content and continents to give a complete picture of the impacts of fashion. * Sass Brown, Manchester Metropolitan University, UK *Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Notes on Contributors Part 1 – Moral and Ethical Dangers in Fashion 1. Introduction Sara B. Marcketti and Elena E. Karpova 2. Moral Dilemmas in the Fashion Business Jung Ha-Brookshire 3. Sustainability [Must] Drive Design Elizabeth Bye 4. Stealing Fashion Designs Sara B. Marcketti, Jean Parsons, and Hallie Erdahl Part 2 – The Dangers of Making Fashion 5. Fibres and Materials: What is Fashion Made of? Huantian Cao 6. Fashion: An Unrecognized Contributor to the Climate Change Kim Y. Hiller Connell and Melody L. A. LeHew 7. The Dangers in the Fashion Supply Chain: Offshore vs. Domestic Sourcing Ting Chi and Sheng Lu 8. A Look at Labour Issues in Manufacture of Apparel through the Perspective of Human Trafficking and Modern-Day Slavery Marsha Dickson and Hayley Warren 9. Exodus to Elsewhere: Exploring the Effects of Fashion Industry Globalization on Local Communities Nancy Hodges Part 3 – The Dangers of Consuming Fashion 10. Taking offense: A discussion of fashion, appropriation, and cultural insensitivity Denise Nicole Green and Susan B. Kaiser 11. Striving to Fit In Kelly L. Reddy-Best 12. Pain in [From] Fashion Ellen McKinney and Eulanda A. Sanders Part 4 – The Dangers of Caring for and Disposing Fashion 13. A Consumer Perspective on Clothing Care: Economic, Environmental and Social Costs Pam Norum and Rachel LoMonaco-Benzing 14. Disposing Fashion: From the Ugly… Jana M. Hawley and Elena E. Karpova 15. Disposing Fashion 2: …To the Good Elena E. Karpova and Jana M. Hawley 16. Conclusion Elena E. Karpova and Sara B. Marcketti Index

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Book SynopsisIn The Fashion Reader, Linda Welters and Abby Lillethun have selected 76 influential articles to offer insight into the critical theories and conversations that surround this huge international industry. Many of the essays are drawn from books, journals, magazines, and exhibition catalogues, bringing together new and established concepts to offer a solid grounding in the history, business and culture of fashion. Fourteen of the chapters were written expressly for this edition. For added context, each of the fifteen parts has an introduction from the editors, guiding you through the interdisciplinary world of fashion studies, and each part concludes with suggestions for further reading. This third edition has been substantially revised to highlight issues of sustainability, identity, the body, as well as global perspectives from The Commodification of Ethnicity to The Cultural Heritage of Tattooing.Trade ReviewAn engaging text that unpacks the interdisciplinary nature of the global fashion system with considerations of time, place, and context. Readers will gain new and critical insights into the ways various fields such as economics, psychology, geography, politics, art, culture, and business influence fashioned identities and communities. -- Kelly Reddy-Best, Iowa State University, USAHistorically informed and critically integrated, The Fashion Reader sheds fresh light on key concepts in fashion studies: time, space/place, identity, and globalization. * Susan Kaiser, University of California at Davis (from 1st edition) *A panoramic collection of current and classic texts and an excellent introduction to fashion . . . from history, cultural identity, gender, through to the business, economics, manufacturing and marketing of fashion. * Pammi Sinha, University of Manchester (from 1st edition) *Presenting rich, diverse, and significant essays, The Fashion Reader will contribute to and expand the study of fashion. * Theresa M. Winge, Indiana University (from 1st edition) *An invaluable resource that covers Fashion Studies' range of disciplines and approaches, The Fashion Reader will invigorate the growing field of fashion. * Patrik Aspers, Stockholm University (from 1st edition) *This is a useful starting point that demonstrates the richness of the subject, indicates the diverse themes to be explored, and the variety of approaches it is possible to take in examining both contemporary and historical fashion. * Costume, Vol 42, 2008 (from 1st edition) *Table of ContentsIntroduction — Linda Welters and Abby Lillethun Part I: A Brief History of Fashion Introduction — Linda Welters 1. From Prehistory through Byzantium — Abby Lillethun 2. Europe to 1700 — Linda Welters 3. From Baroque Elegance to the French Revolution: 1700–1790 — Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell 4. From Neoclassicism to the Industrial Revolution: 1790–1860 — Susan North 5. The Victorian and Edwardian Eras: 1860–1910 — Cynthia Cooper 6. The Modern Era: 1910–1960 — Tiffany Webber 7. The Postmodern Age: 1960–2020 — José Blanco F. 8. Fashion Outside the West — Linda Welters and Abby Lillethun Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part I Part II: Fashion Theory Introduction — Abby Lillethun 9. Dress as an Expression of the Pecuniary Culture — Thorstein Veblen 10. The Habitus and the Space of Life-Styles — Pierre Bourdieu 11. The Fashion System — Grant McCracken 12. The Dressed Body — Joanne Entwistle 13. Re-Orienting Fashion Theory — Sandra Niessen Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part II Part III: Psychology of Fashion Introduction — Abby Lillethun 14. The Fundamental Motives — J. C. Flugel 15. Blue or Pink? That is the Question: Homophobia and Its Influence on the Gendering of Colour Symbolism — Eun Jung Kang 16. Shopping for Fashion — Carolyn Mair 17. Lacan and Fashion — Alison Bancroft 18. Spirited Individuality: Halloween — Pravina Shukla Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part III Part IV: Fashion and Identity Introduction — Abby Lillethun 19. Dress and Identity — Mary Ellen Roach-Higgins and Joanne Eicher 20. All Out in the Wash: Convict Stain Removal in the Narryana Heritage Museum’s Dress Collection — Jennifer Clynk and Sharon Peoples 21. Subculture: The Unnatural Break — Dick Hebdige 22. 1980s and Beyond: Queering Fashion — Susan B. Kaiser 23. Islamic Fashion and the Global Islamic Revival Movement — Annalies Moors and Emma Tarlo 24. The Commodification of Ethnicity: Vlisco Fabrics and Wax Cloth Fashion in Ghana — Christine Delhaye and Rhoda Woets Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part IV Part V: Fashion: Space and Place Introduction — Linda Welters 25. Fashion in Peripheral Places: The New Zealand Story — Sally Weller 26. Travelling the Street Style Blogosphere: Amateur Photography — Brent Luvaas 27. Flagship Stores: Scaling Fashion’s Luxury Spaces — Louise Crewe 28. Globalization Reconsidered: The Historical Geography of Modern Western Male Attire — Wilbur Zelinsky 29. Nailed It: Producing and Consuming in Tokyo’s Nail Industry — Rebecca Scofield Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part V Part VI: Politics of Fashion Introduction — Abby Lillethun 30. Fashioning the Colonial Subject — Barbara L. Voss 31. Khartoum at Night — Marie Grace Brown 32. The Soul Wide World: The “Afro Look” in South Africa from the 1970s to the New Millennium — Tanisha C. Ford 33. How White Became the Color of Suffrage — Einav Rabinovitch-Fox 34. Worker Rights, Factory Inspection, and Fashion — Richard McIntyre 35. Trade Policies and the Textiles and Apparel Industries — Arthur C. Mead Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part VI Part VII: Fashion and the Body Introduction — Abby Lillethun 36. The Cultural Heritage of Tattooing: A Brief History — Lars Krutak 37. Consumptive Corsetry and Romantic Fashion — Carolyn A. Day 38. Outcomes of Plastic Surgery — Charlotte N. Markey and Patrick M. Markey 39. Hair and Human Identity — Sarah Cheang and Geraldine Biddle-Perry 40. Disciplining Corpulence: The Case of Plus-Size Fashion Models — Amanda M. Czerniawaski Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part VII Part VIII: Fashion and Art Introduction — Linda Welters 41. Fashion — Valerie Steele 42. Putting Artwear in Context — Melissa Leventon 43. Curating Chanel — Nick Rees-Roberts 44. One Work: Elsa Schiaparelli & Salvador Dalí: The Tears Dress (1938) — Ella Plevin 45. Dynamic Static — Nicole Archer Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part VIII Part IX: Fashion, Media and Communication Introduction — Linda Welters 46. Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis — Kathleen Craughwell-Varda 47. Film Stars as Fashion Icons — Pamela Church Gibson 48. Style Narratives: Sixties in the Twenty-First Century — Heike Jenss 49. The Celebrity as Designer of His/Her Own Fashion Brand — Marta Martina and Silvia Vacirca 50. A Global Discourse: The New Millennium — Kate Nelson Best Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part IX Part X: From Haute Couture to the Street Introduction — Linda Welters 51. The Dressmaking World — Thérèse Bonney and Louise Bonney 52. A New House, a New Femininity — Alexandra Palmer 53. Trickle Down, Bubble Up — Ted Polhemus 54. Punks and Pirates: The Costiff Collection of Vivienne Westwood — Sonnet Stanfill 55. Connoisseurs of Trash in a World Full of It — Jennifer Le Zotte Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part X Part XI: Design and Manufacture Introduction — Linda Welters 56. The Future of Fashion Forecasting — Regina Lee Blasczyk and Ben Wubs 57. Hedi Slimane and the Reinvention of Menswear — Jay McCauley Bowstead 58. At Work in the Vintage Archive — Jennifer Ayres 59. Luxury Indian Fashion — Tereza Kuldova 60. The Sweatshop, Child Labor, and Exploitation Issues in the Garment Industry — Liat Smestad Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XI Part XII: Marketing and Merchandising Introduction — Linda Welters 61. Spectacle — Ginger Gregg Duggan 62. Surprise Ambush: The Unexpected and Unscheduled — Nilgin Yusuf 63. The A&F Brand/Story — Anne-Peirson-Smith and Joseph H. Hancock II 64. Disruptive Business Model Innovations in the Fashion Retail Industry — Byoungho Ellie Jin and Daeun Chloe Shin 65. What Is the Future of the Fashion Show? — Steff Yotka Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XII Part XIII: The Fashion Business and Global Economics Introduction — Abby Lillethun 66. Made in ____ — Arthur C. Mead 67. Zara: The Business Model for Fast Fashion — Teresa M. McCarthy Byrne 68. Contemporary South Asian Youth Cultures and the Fashion Landscape — Lipi Begum and Rohit K. Dasgupta 69. Moroccan Fashion and Economics — M. Angela Jansen 70. Used Clothing Markets in the Global South — Andrew Brooks Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XIII Part XIV: Sustainability and Fashion Introduction — Linda Welters 71. Textile Production — Leslie Davis Burns 72. The Filippa K Story — Kerli Kant Hvass 73. Sustainability in Textiles and Fashion: How Far Have We Come Since 2000? — Martin Bide Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XIV Part XV: Future of Fashion Introduction — Linda Welters and Abby Lillethun 74. Amazon Has Developed an AI Fashion Designer — Will Knight 75. Sewing Up a Storm: How Robots and Other New Technologies are Shaping a New Era of Manufacturing — Kilara Le 76. Forecasting Fashion’s Future — Abby Lillethun and Linda Welters Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XV Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisA visual goldmine for designers of original print, weave and embellishment, Sourcing Ideas for Textile Design will help you generate new ideas, develop them methodically and finally create beautifully designed textiles. The carefully selected range of images illustrate how to use visual information in this process from a variety of sources, breaking down the process into key themes colour, surface, structure, texture and pattern. This second edition includes: case studies and interviews with insight into visual research and development from revered practising designers, including Dries Van Noten and Reiko Sudo; Spotlight sections offer historical or cultural perspectives on each point in the process; and, new coverage of material investigation, colour analysis, presentation and curation, as well as advice on IP and copyright. You'll also be guided through the three stages of textile design where you will: generate your idea; work to Trade ReviewEmbraces craft and technology and real-world insights from innovative and world-leading practitioners. This is an essential reference and a compelling read. * Anne Smith, Professor Emerita, Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London, UK *Provides a unique insight into a broad range of successful textile practitioners, while systematically walking the reader through the design process. It serves as both an inspirational and instructional tool for exploring possibilities. * J.R. Campbell, Executive Director, Design Innovation Initiative, Kent State University, USA *Table of ContentsIntroduction 1. What is Textile Design? 2. The Textile Design Process 3. Develop through Material Investigation 4. Colour 5. Creating Textile Outcomes Conclusion Glossary Bibliography

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Book SynopsisHow do fashion designers design? How does design function within the industry? How can design practices open up sustainable pathways for fashion's future? Designing Fashion''s Future responds to these questions to offer a fresh understanding of design practices within the sprawling, shifting fashion system.Fashion design is typically viewed as the rarefied practice of elite professionals, or else as a single stage within the apparel value chain. Alice Payne shows how design needn''t be reduced to a set of decisions by a designer or design team, but can instead be examined as a process, object, or agent that shapes fashion's material and symbolic worlds. Designing Fashion''s Future draws on more than 50 interviews with industry professionals based in Australia, Asia, North America, Europe, and the United Kingdom. These diverse perspectives from multinational retailers, independent and experimental contexts ground the discussion in contemporary industry practices.Trade ReviewClear-sighted, rich and enlightening: this is a book for our times of change. * Professor Kate Fletcher, Centre for Sustainable Fashion, University of the Arts London, UK *Starting with the question, “can fashion ever be truly sustainable?”, Payne offers a thought-provoking, engaging, and comprehensive examination of today’s fashion systems, sub-systems, and networks and the tactics and practices necessary for system changes. A must-read for all who aspire to fashion themselves and others for a sustainable future. * Leslie Davis Burns, Oregon State University, USA *Dr Alice Payne expands the discourse in fashion and sustainability by articulating exciting concepts such as taming and rewilding fashion. The book takes on the critical task of redefining fashion and fashion design to better empower us to face the challenges in the global fashion system today. * Dr Timo Rissanen, Associate Professor, University of Technology Sydney, Australia *Designing Fashion’s Future is a must to read for all interested in the future of fashion. A comprehensive fashion system is laid out to help us think about the challenges ahead. Fashion must be navigated, disrupted, and modified within the larger world system to evolve into a more sustainable model. * Marilyn DeLong, University of Minnesota, USA *Table of Contents1. Fashion Design Beyond the Designer 2. Fashion Systems Thinking 3. Designers, Named and Nameless 4. Fashion’s Designerly Narratives 5. Designing in Fast Fashion 6. Design for Sustainability as Strategies and Tactics 7. Weightless Fashion 8. Taming Fashion by Design 9. Rewilding Fashion by Design 10. Conclusion

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Book SynopsisThe Business of Beauty is a unique exploration of the history of beauty, consumption, and business in Victorian and Edwardian London. Illuminating national and cultural contingencies specific to London as a global metropolis, it makes an important intervention by challenging the view of those wholike their historical contemporariesperceive the 19th and early 20th centuries as devoid of beauty praxis, let alone a commercial beauty culture.Contrary to this perception, The Business of Beauty reveals that Victorian and Edwardian women and men developed a number of tacit strategies to transform their looks including the purchase of new goods and services from a heterogeneous group of urban entrepreneurs: hairdressers, barbers, perfumers, wigmakers, complexion specialists, hair-restorers, manicurists, and beauty culturists. Mining trade journals, census data, periodical print, and advice literature, Jessica P. Clark takes us on a journey through Victorian and Edwardian London'sTrade ReviewClark’s study is an elegant one, rich in detail with a sophisticated argument that compellingly encapsulates an important element of the beauty scene in a major global city ... Debates over beauty—currently a multibillion-dollar global industry incorporate and reveal issues of business, law, the body, morality, and labour in Britain and beyond, making The Business of Beauty a timely and important contribution. * Histoire sociale/Social History *[T]his text complements existing work around fashion and modernity in London, with a timely focus on the impact that colonialism, nationalism, and gender based conventions in the nineteenth century have had on so many aspects of life. * Journal of Dress History *Clark’s fascinating study of beauty entrepreneurship in 19th-century London provides wonderful insights not only into Victorian and Edwardian business and marketing practices but also into the history of gender, self-fashioning, national identities, and urban cosmopolitanism. Through careful research, the author has unearthed a wide array of intriguing source material that will surprise and delight. * Paul R. Deslandes, University of Vermont, USA *In this lively and imaginative new study, Jessica Clark demonstrates how the Victorians invented a major beauty industry in the center of their capital city. By focusing on hairdressers and other beauty experts, Clark’s fascinating and entertaining new book establishes how London became the center of a new type of consumer culture, in which consumers who could afford it could transform their bodies and identities. This is a must-read for anyone interested in the history of London, gender and capitalism. * Erika Rappaport, University of California, Santa Barbara, USA *Table of ContentsList of Plates List of Figures List of Maps Acknowledgments 1. Introduction 2. ’Backmewsy’ Beauty: Agnes Headman and Aimée Lloyd 3. Upstarts and Outliers: Sarah “Madame Rachel” Leverson 4. Mobilizing Men: Robert Douglas and H.P. Truefitt 5. Professionalizing Perfumery: Eugène Rimmel 6. Female Enterprise at the Fin-de-Siècle: Jeannette Pomeroy 7. From Beauty Culturist to Beauty Magnate: Helena Rubinstein Epilogue Appendix I Appendix II Notes Select Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisWinner of the John G. Cawelti Award for Best Textbook / PrimerHow did you decide what to wear today? Did you base your selection on comfort or style? Did you want to blend in or stand out or was it just the cleanest outfit available? We each make these decisions every day, reflecting how we view ourselves and impacting how others see us. Our choices matter not just to us personally, but also to the magazine editors, brand ambassadors and trend forecasters who make a living by selling to us. Communicating Fashion introduces key concepts from the intersecting worlds of fashion and communication studies to connect how we all use clothing to express ourselves and how media systems support that process. In doing so, Myles Ethan Lascity explores social, cultural and ethical issues through the work of fashion journalism, brand promotions and the growing role of online influencers as well as the impact of film, television and art on self-image and expression.Key topicTrade ReviewExamines significant moments and movements in clothing and fashion and contextualizes them into a coherent narrative grounded in communication theory. Clothing is an essential part of our culture and this text illustrates how fashion isn’t frivolous but rather an important facet of identity. -- Jeanne M. Persuit, Ph.D., Associate Professor, The University of North Carolina Wilmington, USAMyles Ethan Lascity marries fashion studies and communication in Communicating Fashion. He uses relatable examples, builds on scholarship, and explains in an accessible manner that will be appreciated by students just beginning to study fashion. -- Dr Andrew Reilly, University of Hawai`i, ManoaWith its eminently readable style, Communicating Fashion makes fashion theory accessible by clearly expressing how we constantly send, receive and contextualize messages through our shared experience of dress. Full of excellent examples, visual aids and humorous anecdotes, the text takes a distinctly modern approach and engages the reader while respecting the intellectual underpinnings of the discipline. -- Lorynn Divita, Baylor University, USAThis new landmark text opens readers to the future of how we view fashion, clothing, and the appropriate milieus that communicate with consumers regarding contemporary style. Lascity’s work not only takes on a journey of recent trends but builds on the contextual elements of tomorrow’s fashion and methods of scholarly inquiry. -- Joseph H. Hancock, II, Drexel University, USATable of ContentsPreface 1. Communicating Fashion 2. Clothing as Intra- and Interpersonal Communication 3. Clothing Dynamics in Groups and Cultures 4. Fashion: Systems, Meaning and Time 5. Clothing, News and Tastemaking 6. Clothing on Film and Television 7. Ads, Brands and Retail Considerations 8. Digital Communication, Social Media and Mediatization 9. Fashion, Clothing and/as Art Endnotes References

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Book SynopsisEighteenth-century women told their life stories through making. With its compelling stories of women's material experiences and practices, Material Lives offers a new perspective on eighteenth-century production and consumption. Genteel women's making has traditionally been seen as decorative, trivial and superficial. Yet their material archives, forged through fabric samples, watercolours, dressed prints and dolls' garments, reveal how women used the material culture of making to record and navigate their lives.Material Lives positions women as makers' in a consumer society. Through fragments of fabric and paper, Dyer explores an innovative way of accessing the lives of otherwise obscured women. For researchers and students of material culture, dress history, consumption, gender and women's history, it offers a rich resource to illuminate the power of needles, paintbrushes and scissors.Trade ReviewThere is something deeply moving about encountering eighteenth-century women via the things they stitched, wore, cut, drew and painted. Richly detailed, evocative and precise – as well as beautifully illustrated – Material Lives has much in common with the intricate, creative women's work that Dyer studies in this book. * Hannah Greig, University of York, UK *Serena Dyer’s lavishly illustrated and brilliantly researched book calls for us to rethink the immense cultural power of the “needles, brushes, glue and scissors” that four Georgian women used to fashion new versions of history. It is a compelling read. * Alison Matthews David, Ryerson University, Canada *A meticulous, insightful and intimate reconstruction of how four genteel women recorded and memorialized their lives through ‘material life writing’ ... [and] a compelling vision of women’s engagement in the eighteenth-century world of goods as knowledgeable, skilful and creative makers. * Karen Harvey, University of Birmingham, UK *This splendid book portrays the unforgettable world of female imagination, skill and artistic talent that shaped consumer identity in the eighteenth century. * Giorgio Riello, University of Warwick, UK *Material Lives offers a brilliant re-evaluation of eighteenth-century women’s lives through their craft practices. Organised around four rich case studies, Dyer’s book eloquently questions the presumed primacy of the textual archive and models an innovative interdisciplinary methodology that has far-reaching repercussions for the study of women’s history. * Jennie Batchelor, University of Kent, UK *Table of ContentsList of Illustrations List of Charts and Tables Acknowledgements List of Abbreviations 1. Introduction: Making Material Lives Material Life Writing The Consumer Culture of Making Four Material Lives 2. Material Accounting: A Sartorial Account Book Barbara Johnson (1738–1825) Educating Barbara Johnson Accounting for Herself Material Literacy A Chronicle of Fashion 3. Dress of the Year: Watercolours Ann Frankland Lewis (1757–1842) Sartorial Timekeeping and the Fashion Plate Accomplishment and Creative Practice Society and Fashionable Display Selfhood, Emotion and the Mourning Watercolours 4. Adorned in Silk: Dressed Prints Sabine Winn (1734–1798) Paper Textiles, Dress and the Dressed Print Sabine Winn’s Dressed Prints Print and Making at Nostell 5. Fashions in Miniature: Dolls Laetitia Powell (1741–1801) The Powell Dolls Mimetic Dolls and Miniature Selves Dolls as Sartorial Social Narrators 6. Conclusion: Material Afterlives Glossary Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisFrom cinema's silent beginnings, fashion and interior design have been vital to character development and narrative structure. Despite spectacular technological advancements on screen, stunning silhouettes and striking spaces still have the ability to dazzle to dramatic effect. This book is the first to consider the significant interplay between fashion and interiors and their combined contribution to cinematic style from early film to the digital age.With examples from Frank Lloyd Wright inspired architecture in Hitchcock's North by Northwest, to Coco Chanel's costumes for Gloria Swanson and a Great Gatsby film-set turned Ralph Lauren flagship, Cinematic Style describes the reciprocal relationship between these cultural forms. Exposing the bleeding lines between fashion and interiors in cinematic and real-life contexts, Berry presents case studies of cinematic styles adopted as brand identities and design movements promoted through filmic fantasy.Shedding light onTrade ReviewCinematic Style approaches the long-term disciplinary distinction between fashion, architectural decor and interior design through the lens of cinema, arguing for the interconnectivity of these fields. Abundantly illustrated, with an approachable writing style and innovative story line, it is an essential read for scholars of the domestic, commercial, or fictive interior, fashion historians, architects and historic preservationists alike. * Anca Lasc, Pratt Institute, USA *Berry brings themes from feminist theory, and to a lesser degree, Queer theory, to bear on this slice through film history to consider intersections between fashion, design and groupings of films (many canonical) from the 1920s and 1930s, the mid- and late 20th-century, and more recent examples. Anyone with an interest in masquerade, transformation, performativity, staging, interiority, gender, and sexuality, as well as camp, Queer nostalgia, and Queer heterotopias, fashion and luxury, will find much to intrigue them in here. * Pat Kirkham, Kingston School of Art, UK *Table of ContentsList of Figures Acknowledgements Introduction: Cinematic Style—Fashion, Architecture and the Interior on Film 1. Bedrooms, Boudoirs and Bathrooms: Modern Women, Seductive Spaces and Spectacular Silhouettes 2. Evil Lairs and Bachelor Dandies: Modernist Architecture, Spies and the Suit 3. Luxurious Longings: Queer Heterotopias in Décor and Dress 4. Grand Entrances: Staircases, Stages and Fashion Parades 5. Windows and Screens: Cinema, Department Stores and Boutique Displays 6. Dream Spaces: Film Sets as Fashion Flagships and Experiential Retail Environments Conclusion Notes Filmography Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisBonnie English was Associate Professor in Art History & Theory at the Queensland College of Art, Griffith University, Brisbane, Australia.Nazanin Hedayat Munroe is Director of Textiles and Assistant Professor of Business & Technology of Fashion at the NYC College of Technology - CUNY, where she lectures on textiles, historic dress, and contemporary issues in the fashion industry. A former Educator at the Metropolitan Museum, Nazanin is also a nationally acclaimed textile artist.Trade ReviewThis edition has been updated to include key developments in fashion consumption and production, such as the impact of digital technology, climate change, economic downturns and geo-political shifts. It provides a comprehensive overview of the cultural history and future of fashion for students and researchers alike. -- Caroline Alexander, Senior Lecturer, BA Fashion, Kingston School of Art, UKPraise for the previous edition: This book has been adopted as a textbook in fashion schools and it is easy to see why. It's a solid introduction to fashion history and to the significant social importance of fashion. The language is accessible and its coverage of relevant issues ...comprehensive. [It] is a good balance of interesting anecdotes and modern fashion theory, which means the book will appeal to both the general reader and to fashion scholars. -- TRCEnglish has created a very respectable academic treatment of the last century of fashion... What is most notable about the content of this volume is the way English handles her broad topic; there are some powerful fashion images in this book, but this is no pretty coffee table accessory. English selects unique subjects within fashion for each chapter and zeroes in to prevent a deluge of meaningless and broad historical summaries. -- WORN Fashion JournalThis new edition of Bonnie English's invaluable introduction to the cultural perspectives on fashion in the twentieth century expands upon her original text, covering and updating her investigation of both the commercial and cultural aspects of fashion. Situating fashion as both intercontextual and interdisciplinary, English provides a solid grounding of issues, concerns and debates that are essential to understand for any scholar of fashion. -- Shaun Cole, London College of Fashion, UKThis edition has encompassed all the intricacies of the fashion world and refreshingly included insight into the ‘business’ of the industry. A valuable tool for opening up the fashion world to students, and a one-stop read that will be entertaining for ‘fashionistas’ who are keen to learn more about the mysteries of fashion. -- Kay McMahon, Queensland University of Technology, Australia[T]his book has a fine, thoughtful, well-researched approach to the subject of 20th- and 21st-century fashion history. I can imagine that a new student would be very inspired by this volume, having gotten a taste of the philosophy of Quentin Bell, an introduction to Yamamoto and Yves Saint Laurent, and a broad but nuanced sense of the chronology of cultural historical events and ideas. Laying a dynamic and intriguing groundwork for lifelong study, A Cultural History of Fashion in the 20th and 21st Centuries would be an excellent starting point. -- Worn Through, Arianna FunkGives a comprehensive history of fashion in the 20th and 21st centuries, including fashion trends, influential designers and much much more... A fascinating fashion history text which is also surprisingly readable. -- We Heart Vintage, Mary MicourisIt's a great book to understand both the main actors and the more informal links of fashion labels in the field. -- Alexander Bretz, Mediadesign Fachhochschule, University of Applied Sciences, GermanyTable of ContentsIntroduction 1.The Commercialization of Fashion Dress and Society in Europe Before the Twentieth Century Social Implications of Dress The Rise of Haute Couture Charles Frederick Worth The Rise of Consumerism The Social Equalizer of the Department Store 2.The Artistry of Fashion Artist-Led Workshops Haute Couture at the Turn of the Twentieth Century Paul Poiret: King of Fashion The Goddess Silhouettes of Vionnet and Fortuny Sonia Delaunay: Simultaneous Contrast of Colours Elsa Schiaparelli: Surrealism in Fashion 3.The Democratization of Fashion Changes in Commerce and Social Structure The Art of Fashion Advertising Flooding the American Market: Reproductions and Fakes Coco Chanel: Pauvreté De Luxe Jean Patou: Style meets Scandal Fashion and Functionalist Theory Stepanova and Popova: Russian Constructivism Dressing Thousands: The Birth of Prêt-À-Porter 4.The Americanization of Fashion Slop Shops, Sweatshops, and Factory Work Fit and Function Piracy in Fashion American Couture The ‘American Look’ in Ready-to-Wear Changes in Menswear: Shirts, Jeans, and Suits Fashion in Film: Costume Designer as Couturier Fashion as Sociopolitical Statement: Zoot Suits 5.The Popularization of Fashion Haute Couture Following the Second World War Christobal Balenciaga Christian Dior Yves Saint Laurent André Courrèges Pierre Cardin Clothing and Popular Culture The Swinging ‘60s in London Mary Quant Alternative Fashion Zandra Rhodes Laura Ashley 6.The Postmodernization of Fashion Postmodernism in Fashion and Art The Rejection of Fashion Vivienne Westwood: Anarchy as Inspiration Fashion and Music Anti-Fashion as Feminism Japanese Conceptual Fashion: Miyake, Yamamoto and Kawakubo Redefining Popular Culture Through Heritage Contextualization 7.The Deviance of Fashion Franco Moschino Viktor & Rolf Martin Margiela Alexander McQueen Harajuku Street Fashion Fashion Imagery and Notions of Gender Construction The Reinvention of Menswear 8.The Lifestyle of Fashion American Sportswear Designers Ralph Lauren Calvin Klein Donna Karan Redefining Womenswear: Power Dressing Fashion as Ideological Billboard Street Style on the Catwalk 9.The Corporatization of Fashion Global Conglomerates LVMH: The Super Syndicate Luxury Heritage Branding The Designer as Product Fashion as Philanthropy and Installation Perfume: A License to Make Money The Death of Haute Couture? Counterfeit Chic Ecommerce and Online Shopping 10.The Sustainability of Fashion The Origins of Disposable Fashion Industry Issues: Waste, Pollution, and Labour Sustainable Alternatives Green is the New Black Vintage Clothing as Recycling Other Sustainable Approaches Ethical Concerns 11.The Digitization of Fashion Virtual Couture Technology in Fashion: A brief history Fashion and Technology in the 21st Century Hussein Chalayan Iris van Herpen Fashion as Future and Fantasy Representation and Inclusivity in Fashion Conclusion Notes Glossary Bibliography

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Book SynopsisFashion travels. Every new shape of sleeve, each novel method of cutting and any innovation in fabric has spread through complex networks of makers, retailers and consumers. Disseminating Dress represents the first historical study of how these networks of fashion communication functioned and evolved in an increasingly global material world. Focussing on Britain separated from mainland Europe, yet increasingly globally-linked this volume will trace how dress was disseminated in and out of one island nation. The paths made by print, image and commodities around the globe have enabled historians to reimagine a connected material world. The influence of innovations in dissemination shape this volume, which asks urgent questions about the extent of global influence on fashion, and the intertwining nature of written, printed, visual and material fashion news. This collection brings together innovative scholarship from an interdisciplinary group of historians, art historians and fasTrade ReviewInnovative, wide-ranging, and thought-provoking, Disseminating Dress explores how individuals in pre-digital Britain engaged with makers, magazines, advertising and the views of friends and family in order to successfully negotiate how, when and where to acquire their fashionable wardrobe. * Maria Hayward, University of Southampton, UK *Table of ContentsList of Plates List of Figures List of Tables Notes on Contributors Acknowledgements 1. Introduction: Fashion Travels Serena Dyer, De Montfort University, UK, Jade Halbert, University of Huddersfield, UK, and Sophie Littlewood, Welbeck Abbey, UK Part I: Modes of Dissemination 2. Dolled Up: The Material Dissemination of Dress in Early Modern Europe Sophie Pitman, Aalto University, Finland 3. A Shared World of Words? The Circulation and Dissemination of Clothing Descriptions in Eighteenth-Century England Elizabeth Spencer, University of York, UK 4. Fashions of the Day: Materiality, Temporality and the Fashion Plate, 1750–1879 Serena Dyer, De Montfort University, UK 5. The Talking Page: Dress Transmission in Jane Austen's Writings Hilary Davidson, University of Sydney, Australia 6. Global Networks of Fashion: The Design and Circulation of British Printed Textiles for Export to West Africa, c.1870–1914 Josephine Tierney, University of Warwick, UK 7. Propaganda, Patriotism and Rivalry: How the Interests of the Trade Press Shaped British Fashion Following the Second World War Bethan Bide, University of Leeds, UK 8. Location, London: Promoting British Ready-to-Wear 1959–1966 Liz Tregenza, Independent Scholar Part II: Dissemination in Practice 9. Making doublets and disseminating fashions in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries Rebecca Unsworth, Birmingham Museums Trust, UK 10. Lady Charlotte Campbell and Fashionable Neoclassicism Amelia Rauser, Franklin and Marshall College, USA 11. Sent to the Other Side of the World: The Fashion for Shetland Fine Lace Knitting in Australia Roslyn Chapman, University of Glasgow, UK 12. Reporting Royal Dress: Queen Alexandra and Royal Image Making Kate Strasdin, Falmouth University, UK 13. Twentieth-Century Clothing Wholesale and the Dissemination of Mass Fashion in Birmingham and the Black Country Jenny Gilbert, University of Wolverhampton, UK 14. Conclusion Serena Dyer, Jade Halbert, and Sophie Littlewood Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisSerena Dyer is Early Career Academic Fellow at De Montfort University, UK. She was previously Curator of the Museum of Domestic Design and Architecture, and is the author of Material Lives: Women Makers and Consumer Culture in the 18th Century (Bloomsbury, 2021).Jade Halbert is Lecturer in Design Studies at the University of Leeds, UK. She is a historian of the British fashion industry and fashion business in the post-war period.Sophie Littlewood is the Curator of the Portland Collection at Welbeck Abbey, UK. She specializes in early modern portraiture, dress and armour.Trade ReviewInnovative, wide-ranging, and thought-provoking, Disseminating Dress explores how individuals in pre-digital Britain engaged with makers, magazines, advertising and the views of friends and family in order to successfully negotiate how, when and where to acquire their fashionable wardrobe. * Maria Hayward, University of Southampton, UK *Table of ContentsList of Plates List of Figures List of Tables Notes on Contributors Acknowledgements 1. Introduction: Fashion Travels Serena Dyer, De Montfort University, UK, Jade Halbert, University of Huddersfield, UK, and Sophie Littlewood, Welbeck Abbey, UK Part I: Modes of Dissemination 2. Dolled Up: The Material Dissemination of Dress in Early Modern Europe Sophie Pitman, Aalto University, Finland 3. A Shared World of Words? The Circulation and Dissemination of Clothing Descriptions in Eighteenth-Century England Elizabeth Spencer, University of York, UK 4. Fashions of the Day: Materiality, Temporality and the Fashion Plate, 1750–1879 Serena Dyer, De Montfort University, UK 5. The Talking Page: Dress Transmission in Jane Austen's Writings Hilary Davidson, University of Sydney, Australia 6. Global Networks of Fashion: The Design and Circulation of British Printed Textiles for Export to West Africa, c.1870–1914 Josephine Tierney, University of Warwick, UK 7. Propaganda, Patriotism and Rivalry: How the Interests of the Trade Press Shaped British Fashion Following the Second World War Bethan Bide, University of Leeds, UK 8. Location, London: Promoting British Ready-to-Wear 1959–1966 Liz Tregenza, Independent Scholar Part II: Dissemination in Practice 9. Making doublets and disseminating fashions in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries Rebecca Unsworth, Birmingham Museums Trust, UK 10. Lady Charlotte Campbell and Fashionable Neoclassicism Amelia Rauser, Franklin and Marshall College, USA 11. Sent to the Other Side of the World: The Fashion for Shetland Fine Lace Knitting in Australia Roslyn Chapman, University of Glasgow, UK 12. Reporting Royal Dress: Queen Alexandra and Royal Image Making Kate Strasdin, Falmouth University, UK 13. Twentieth-Century Clothing Wholesale and the Dissemination of Mass Fashion in Birmingham and the Black Country Jenny Gilbert, University of Wolverhampton, UK 14. Conclusion Serena Dyer, Jade Halbert, and Sophie Littlewood Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisHow has the fashion industry responded to turn-of-the-millennium non-binary identities? Do they have a supportive or exploitative relationship with queer, trans and ageing subjects? Fashion, Identity, Image unpacks these questions and many more in relation to clothing and representation, identity and body politics in British, European and American culture between 1990 and 2020. Jobling, Nesbitt and Wong explore issues of intersectionality and inclusivity through groundbreaking shows, including Maria Grazia Chiuri's We Should All Be Feminists' catwalk show for Dior (Spring-Summer 2017), Alexander McQueen's The Widows of Culloden' collection (Fall-Winter 2006), and the role of transgender models such as Oslo Grace since 2015. Looking to the future of our relationship with fashion, there''s also an investigation of the android as a redemptive figure in Alessandro Michele's cross-cultural cyborg collection for Gucci (Autumn-Winter 2018/2019) and the impact of the ageing pTrade ReviewGives currency to the importance of fashion as an arbiter of change at a time when the multiplicity and fragmentation of gender is affecting the ways we perceive and experience our bodies and our identities. Its contents will incite ideas and heated debates and I am sure it will be a book whose pages will be well-thumbed and whose subject matter will make for long and passionate arguments and conversations. -- Vicki Karaminas, Massey University, New ZealandUtilizing recent and historic examples, the authors offer a robust account of the role of the fashion industry in creating age, race, gender, and posthuman identities, both actual and fantastic. I finished this book with inspiration for my teaching and research. -- Andrew Reilly, University of Hawai`i, Manoa,Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Acknowledgements Introduction 1. Authoring Fashion, Intersecting Sex and Gender Introduction Maria Grazia Chiuri’s ‘We Should All Be Feminists’ T-Shirt for Christian Dior: Branding, identity and authorship Between the womb and the gay parade: Alexander McQueen’s ‘The Widows of Culloden’ as poetic text Subverting the symbolic order: McQueen’s abject woman Conclusion: Squaring up to the phallic mother Notes 2. Written on the body: Fashion, clothing and age Introduction ‘Active ageing’, youthfulness and fashion ‘Fashion For All Ages’ and the new old model army Race and reversing convention Conclusion: From idiotic methods to the realities of time and place Notes 3. (Un)Gendering the runway Introduction Forerunners of transgender and non-binary identities in fashion The advent of transgendered models The abject trans-model Between abjection and acceptance ‘Come into the (trans)garden’: The heterotopia of fashion The authentic self Other models: Intersectionality and wider diversity in the fashion industry Tokenism versus activism Conclusion: Between tokenism and authenticity Notes 4. Loving the alien: Fashion and cyborg identities Introduction Andrea Giacobbe and ‘Simplex Concordia’ Alessandro Michele and the Gucci Cyborg Compromising race and diversity A ‘genuine cyborg manifesto’? Conclusion: Towards emancipatory possibilities Notes Epilogue

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Book SynopsisThe Covid-19 pandemic heightened people's awareness of long-standing inequalities within the fashion industry. Amid calls for greater accountability and ethical awareness, efforts are being made within and beyond the industry, chiefly in the cultural and education sectors, to decentralize fashion: to make the conception, creation and consumption of fashionable dress and appearance less western'-centric.Supporting this premise, Hang-Ups argues that purposeful and permanent change within the fashion industry and fashion education is more likely if it is understood how the contemporary industry became western'-centric. To institute effective change, it is necessary to revert to first principles and understand how the fashion industry developed into what it is today. During a period when the concepts of fashion, history and culture are being intensely scrutinized, and with suggestions they are reaching their nadir, the imperative to understand the extent to which Trade ReviewA thoughtfully researched, carefully crafted and wildly engaging inquiry that is essential reading for all of us in fashion committed to bringing about social justice. * Ben Barry, Parsons School of Design, USA *An important and timely work that belongs on the bookshelves of serious fashion students as well as those involved in the design and promotion of fashion products. * Linda Welters, University of Rhode Island, USA *Sometimes a book come along that stops you dead in your tracks and makes you seriously think that change is long overdue. Hang-ups is one of those brave books. * Vicki Karaminas, Massey University, New Zealand *A timely book that dialogues with the complicated multidimensional dynamics of fashion and dress … Utilizes historic and culture guideposts to challenge assumptions, colonialism, paradigms, and ‘western’ trappings and tropes. * Therèsa M. Winge, Michigan State University, USA *Table of ContentsAcknowledgements Introduction 1. Undress 2. Gender 3. Race 4. Sexuality 5. Age 6. Religion 7. Wealth 8. Violence 9. Shape Conclusion Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisAll publicity is good publicity? Perhaps not. In recent years, multiple local and global fashion brands have been called out for cultural appropriation, racism, misogyny, and even flirting with fascism.Understanding Fashion Scandals is the first book to explore this changing landscape of contemporary fashion through case studies showing how shock value' lost its currency. The book focuses on the changes since the late-1970s and early 1980s, when brands like Calvin Klein and Benetton first used controversy as a promotional tool to build their brand identity, to the contemporary industry where avoiding social media backlash is critical to survival.Analyzing the tactics brands including Burberry, Dior, Dolce & Gabbana and Prada adopt to avoid or mitigate scandals, Vänskä and Gurova map the fashion industry's journey towards cultural sustainability.Trade ReviewThis is a fresh, updated and comprehensive book on the phenomenon of fashion scandals, which has gained media and consumer attention in recent years. The reader will find both rich case studies and an analysis of how fashion scandals deal with broader processes such as mediatization and cultural appropriation. -- Dr Marco Pedroni, University of Ferrara, ItalyA thought-provoking read looking at an important dynamic within the contemporary fashion and advertising worlds. The authors not only interrogate a variety of scandals, but offer an important framework for understanding contemporary fashion communication. -- Dr. Myles Ethan Lascity, Southern Methodist University, USAThis is a smart, rich and engaging analysis of fashion scandals as engines of media attention and as sites of everyday politics. Recommended reading for everyone interested in how fashion matters in the making of identities, cross-cultural connections and sustainable futures. -- Susanna Paasonen, Professor of Media Studies, University of Turku, FinlandA timely and original introduction to the complex politics of the "fashion scandal," investigated as a brand strategy in the age of global communication and social media. -- Hazel Clark, Professor of Design Studies and Fashion Studies, Parsons School of Design, The New School, New York, USATable of ContentsIntroduction The Two Types of Fashion Scandals Scandal as Politicization of Fashion Decolonizing Fashion Positioning Ourselves Epistemic Positionings Structure of the Book PART ONE THE FASHION SCANDAL—PAST AND PRESENT 1. Framing the Fashion Scandal: The Platformization of Fashion Visualization of Fashion Mediatization of Fashion Social Media and the Platformization of Fashion The Instagramification of Fashion 2. Fashion Brands Negotiating Identity Politics Cultural Approach to Brands and Branding Negotiating Identity Politics 3. Changing Strategies of Fashion Brands: From Shock to Scandal A Short History of the Fashion Scandal: Deliberate Shock Contemporary Shock: The Unintentional Scandal Social Media and New Identity Politics Dismantling White Privilege and Introducing Intersectionality to Fashion 4. Emotional Effects of Social Media on Fashion: Calling-out and Canceling Emotional Branding Emotional Reactions and Canceling New Cultural Intermediaries and the Creation of the Unintentional Scandal Consumers Empowered to Speak Up What if a Brand is Canceled? PART TWO CASE STUDIES 5. Russia Love is (Not Just) Love Feminist Resistance in a Conservative World Race Across Time and Space 6. Finland Maternity Clothes for 12-Year-Old African Girls Flirting with Fascists 7. Global Scandals Whose Identity? The Problem with “Cultural Appropriation” Casual Racism: “Eating with Chopsticks” Blackface and Structural Racism in the Fashion Industry “Mental Health is not Fashion” PART THREE THE RESPONSE TO FASHION SCANDALS 8. Just Don’t Do It! Corporate World Response, Part One: Corporate Social Responsibility Corporate World Response, Part Two: Brands as Political Actors Corporate World Response, Part Three: Diversity Officers Academic Response, Part One: The Danger of “Diversity Washing” Academic Response, Part Two: the “Glossification of Diversity” Academic Response, Part Three: Reimagining the Fashion Curriculum Political Response, Part One: Supply Chains and Human Rights Political Response, Part Two: Advocacy Groups Benchmarking Business Conclusion: A Call for Cultural and Social Sustainability PART FOUR EPILOG 9. The Counter Narrative Heidi Karjalainen, Finland Ervin Latimer, Finland Jahnkoy, USA Claudia Lepik, Estonia Muslin Brothers, Belgium Kristian David, Sweden Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisFashioning James Bond is the first book to study the costumes and fashions of the James Bond movie franchise, from Sean Connery in 1962''s Dr No to Daniel Craig in Spectre (2015). Llewella Chapman draws on original archival research, close analysis of the costumes and fashion brands featured in the Bond films, interviews with families of tailors and shirt-makers who assisted in creating the look' of James Bond, and considers marketing strategies for the films and tie-in merchandise that promoted the idea of an aspirational James Bond lifestyle'.Addressing each Bond film in turn, Chapman questions why costumes are an important tool for analysing and evaluating film, both in terms of the development of gender and identity in the James Bond film franchise in relation to character, and how it evokes the desire in audiences to become part of a specific lifestyle construct through the wearing of fashions as seen on screen. She researches the agency of the costume departmTrade ReviewIntensely refreshing … This indispensable book opens up the closet on six decades of Bond clothing. Like Bond with his fashion choices, Dr Chapman bends the rules, refusing to confine herself to a single gender. For once, it’s not merely the men’s garments garnering all of the attention … a useful reference work for years to come - for men, women and those who are both, or neither. * Licence to Queer *A brilliantly researched survey that charts changing styles and examines how the Bond "look" influenced movie-goers' lifestyle aspirations and attracted brand placement, and how each 007 actor made those emblematic tuxedos their "own". * The Australian *This book uncovers the ingenuity involved in creating the costumes in James Bond films. From design to performance, it provides a thorough and insightful study of the many ways in which key characters were dressed both to impress and to kill. -- Sarah Street, University of Bristol, UKThis thoroughly researched and original book offers a comprehensive look at the role of fashion as an essential part of the James Bond films from the early 1960s to today. It is engagingly written and shows how sartorial design and elements of mise-en-scène have contributed to the fictional world of the 007 and film production more generally. By contextualizing the use of fashion in the James Bond films, it raises important questions on how the specific choices during the production processes had a seismic effect on costume, gender and identity. -- Tobias Hochscherf, Kiel University of Applied Sciences & Flensburg University, GermanyFashioning James Bond provides a fascinating and comprehensive history of fashion in, and inspired by the James Bond Franchise. The book draws on thorough archival research and as such provides a unique insight into the process of costuming Bond – bringing together production studies, textual analysis and fashion history. -- Claire Jenkins, University of Leicester, UKLlewella Chapman’s Fashioning James Bond is an exciting contribution to Bond studies and beyond in its focus on the vital role played by costume and fashion in film with the accompanying questions of agency, labour and issues of gender that lie behind the image of the smartly tailored suits iconic to the franchise. Fashioning James Bond is meticulously assembled using its sources to give attention to the evolutions in 007's wardrobe and style. In this book Chapman gives us a wonderful historical account of how James Bond and also other characters in the films have been fashioned over the years, to provide detail on the costumes and those involved in bringing them to the screen. With this account Chapman reveals that if we look beneath the surface style and past the Savile Row mythology there is opportunity to closely examine an important part of the world of James Bond. -- Claire Hines, University of East Anglia, UKLike the fine detail on a GoldenEye Brioni suit, Oscar de le Renta gown from Licence to Kill or Angelo Vitucci piece from The Spy Who Loved Me, the glory of Chapman’s project here is in the research stitching and the academic fabric of her execution … From anecdotes about the cutters of London’s W1 to the tailoring wars, the boutique rivalries and the unwieldy eccentrics through to how a Bond actor walks into that world and the ideas bounce about again, this is a cracking study of what is more than brand identity and onscreen heroism. -- Mark O’ConnellIntensely refreshing … This indispensable book opens up the closet on six decades of Bond clothing. Like Bond with his fashion choices, Dr Chapman bends the rules, refusing to confine herself to a single gender. For once, it’s not merely the men’s garments garnering all of the attention … a useful reference work for years to come - for men, women and those who are both, or neither. * Licence to Queer *Table of ContentsIntroduction 1: ‘My tailor… Savile Row’: Sean Connery (1962) 2: ‘Fitting Fleming’s hero’: Sean Connery (1963-1967) 3: The Man with the Midas touch: Lifestyle, fashion and marketing in the 1960s 4: ‘Coming out of Burton’s short of credit’: George Lazenby (1969) 5: ‘Provided the collars and the cuffs match’: Sean Connery (1971) 6: ‘Licence to frill’: Roger Moore (1971-1975) 7: Breaking his tailor’s heart: Roger Moore (1976-1980) 8: ‘You can always spot a Hayward’: Roger Moore (1980-1985) 9: Licence to tailor revoked: Timothy Dalton (1987-1989) 10: Cool Brioni: Pierce Brosnan (1995-2002) 11: Slick trigger suits: Daniel Craig (2005-2008) 12.You travel with a tuxedo? Daniel Craig (2010 – 2015) Conclusion Appendix Glossary Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisFor centuries, the peoples of Sub-Saharan Africa have been producing domestic and professional embroidery to decorate themselves, their families, clients, homes and public spaces. Embroidery is an expression of artistic, personal, family, regional and even political creativity which has played an important role in the social and cultural lives of people throughout the region. It has also reflected economic and political changes over time as well as social, religious and artistic contexts. This is the first reference work to describe the history of embroidery throughout Africa south of the Sahara from the early modern period through to the present. From quilted armour to embroidered caps and leather sandals, it offers an authoritative guide to all the major embroidery traditions of the region and a detailed examination of the material, technical, artistic and design dimensions of the subject.Generously illustrated with 395 images (362 in colour) of clothes, accessoTable of ContentsPreface Acknowledgements Table of Contents Section 1: Background Information 1. Introduction 2. Fibres, threads and ground materials 3. Embroidery tools, techniques and makers 4. Uses, designs and designers Section 2: Historical Embroideries 5. Archaeological and historical evidence for textiles and embroidery 6. Snapshot: Embroidered West African Gowns in the Museum Ulm, Germany 7. Snapshot: An early ‘velvet’ embroidery Section 3: Embroideries from the Sahel 8. Introduction 9. Embroidered men’s trousers from the Sahel 10. Snapshot: Mandinka embroidered garments 11. Embroidery from Mali 12. Snapshot: Kanem-Bornu embroidered garments 13. Snapshot: The Tuaregs and embroidery 14. Snapshot: Wodaabe embroidery 15. Quilted armour from the Sahel Section 4: Embroideries from West Africa 16. Introduction 17. Embroidered garments and caps from Senegal and The Gambia 18. Snapshot: Stitch resist-dyeing from Senegal 19. Snapshot: Two 19th century embroideries from Sierra Leone 20. Liberian embroidery and quilting 21. Embroidery from Burkina Faso 22. Embroidery from Ghana 23. Fante and Fon appliqué flags 24. Embroidery from Togo 25. Hausa embroidery techniques from northern and northwestern Nigeria 26. Embroideries from southern and central Nigeria 27. Nigerian embroidered headwear for men 28. The West African boubou and the north Nigerian babban riga 29. Snapshot: The Queen Amina embroiderers 30. Appliquéd and embroidered garments from Cameroon Section 5: Embroideries from Central Africa 31. Introduction 32. Embroidery, appliqué and patchwork from Congo Kinshasa 33. Kuba cut-pile ‘velvet’ embroidery Section 6: Embroideries from East and Northeast Africa 34. Introduction 35. Snapshot: Embroidered milaya from South Sudan 36. Embroidery from Eritrea 37. Embroidery from Ethiopia 38. Snapshot: Capt. Speedy’s ‘Ethiopian’ caps 39. Snapshot: Appliqué and embroidered bark cloth from Uganda 40. Snapshot: The Savane Kabuye embroidery workshop from Rwanda 41. Snapshot: East African-Omani embroidered caps 42. Snapshot: East and northeast African embroidered leather sandals 43. Snapshot: Some recent embroidery groups in East Africa Section 7: Embroideries from Southern Africa 44. Introduction 45. Embroidery from Madagascar 46. Embroidered bark cloth from Zambia 47. Snapshot: The Rhodesian Tapestry: A history in needlework 48. Embroidery and South Africa 49. Snapshot: Embroidered Tsonga minceka Appendix 1a: List of stitches with drawings Appendix 1b: Alphabetical list of stitches Bibliography Index

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a huge range and FREE tracked UK delivery on ALL orders.

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Book Synopsis

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Book SynopsisBuild the knowledge and understanding of garment technology essential to any designer In today''s competitive fashion industry, it is essential that designers have a working understanding of garment technology. This 2nd edition has been comprehensively updated, with in-depth information on stitches, guides and attachments and sewing techniques, all of which are fully illustrated. There are enhanced chapters on machine and equipment technology explaining the uses, features and limitations of garment manufacturing equipment, enabling designers to create products that can be manufactured efficiently and with a high degree of quality. Approached from the fashion designer''s mindset, this book features illustrations to help users build their knowledge and understanding Blends theoretical and practical material Updated with the latest and most modern advances in clothing technology Illustrated throughout to help shape the reader''s knowledgeTable of ContentsPreface – About This Revised Edition vi Acknowledgements vii Part I The Commercial Designer 1 Chapter 1 The Designer’s Role within Product Development and Manufacture 3 Chapter 2 The Designer and Garment costs — The commercial Designer 7 Chapter 3 Pattern cutting and Materials Utilisation 15 Chapter 4 Garment Trimmings 36 Chapter 5 Designing for Manufacture 47 Part II Garment Technology 53 Chapter 6 Understanding Textile Materials 55 Chapter 7 Sample cutting 76 Chapter 8 The Principles of Fusing Technology 99 Chapter 9 The Principles of Sewing Technology 112 Chapter 10 The Principles of Pressing Technology 138 Chapter 11 Garment Finishing and Inspection 150 Chapter 12 Selecting Appropriate Technology 160 Part III The Operation of the Product Development Department 165 Chapter 13 The Sample Room 167 Chapter 14 communication 173 Chapter 15 Management/Leadership and Organisation 184 References 193 Index 195

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Book SynopsisThe long-running popular TV series Doctor Who is, Piers Britton argues, a ''uniquely design intensive text'': its time-and-space-travel premise requires that designers be tirelessly imaginative in devising new worlds and entities and recreating past civilizations. While Doctor Who's attempts at worldbuilding are notorious for being hit-and-miss old jokes about wobbly walls and sink plungers die hard the distinctiveness of the series' design imagery is beyond question. And over the course of six decades Doctor Who has produced designs which are not only iconic but, in being repeatedly revisited and updated, have proven to be an ever-more important element in the series' identity and mythos.In the first in-depth study of Doctor Who's costumes, sets and graphics, Piers Britton offers an historical overview of both the original and the revived series, explores theoretical frameworks for evaluating Doctor Who design, and provides detailed analysis of keyTrade ReviewBritton's book highlights the important role played by design throughout the various incarnations of Doctor Who, providing both a fresh perspective on the long-running series and a robust model for future research into this neglected area of media studies. -- Richard Hewett, University of Salford, UKWhether you’re a Doctor Who fan or a design student – perhaps even an attentive student of Doctor Who or a passionate design fan – Design for Doctor Who is for you. Expertly and innovatively bringing together design studies and ‘Doctor Who studies’, Piers Britton restores the importance of the visual to understanding this long-running TV show. -- Professor Matt Hills, University of Huddersfield, UKTable of ContentsTable of Contents Preface PART 1: A CRITICAL DESIGN HISTORY OF DOCTOR WHO Introduction: Why a history of Doctor Who design? 1. The London Period – Lime Grove 1963 to Television Centre 1989 2. The TVM, and the Cardiff Period – Upper Boat Studios 2004 to Roath Lock 2020 Postlude PART 2: THIRTEEN KEY DESIGNS - A PERSONAL VIEW Introduction 3. Formative and Enduring Images 4. Design of the Times PART 3: WHAT’S AT STAKE IN DESIGN FOR DOCTOR WHO Introduction 5. The Work of Design in the Doctor Who Narrative 6. Responding to Design for Doctor Who – Evaluation and Transformations LAST THOUGHTS Notes

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Book SynopsisUlrich Lehmann brings together methods and ideas from social sciences and material production to give us a new political reading of fashion in today's post-democracy. Accessing rare source material across a wide range of European languages and cultures, he gives us insight into new working structures in the manufacture of garments and textiles.

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Book SynopsisExamining the special relationship between footwear and film, Shoe Reels explores images of shoes in cinema. It questions what shoes mean in the context of narrative, aesthetics and symbolism, why they are so memorable, and what their wider cultural resonances might be.

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Book SynopsisNo other book comparesThis is the book students reference during their four years at university. Tara Konya, Southern New Hampshire University, USALearn how fashion lines are designed, manufactured, marketed, and distributed. The book covers the full supply chain from textiles to fashion brand production as well as supply chain management, and competitive strategies, so that you can be successful in your future career. Topics covered include sustainable design for a circular economy, 3-D printing, fashion entrepreneurship, disruptions in fashion calendars, supply chain transparency, impact of social media, growth and evolution of online retailing, expanded omnichannel strategies, and changes in international trade, among others. Case studies, a Career Glossary, and key terms help you connect concepts to practice. New to this Edition Content addresses knowledge and skill guidelines in the Association to Advance Collegiate Sc

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Book SynopsisSocial Psychology of Dress, 2nd Edition presents and explains the major theories and concepts of human behavior relating to dress, drawing from the social science fields of psychology, sociology, and anthropology. The text positions dress as a process in which individual preferences, membership in social groups, and cultural awareness all impact choices about attire and appearance. Using empirical data and examples from current events and popular culture, the authors define dress, present its origins and functions, and discuss research methods for dress. They also explore the relationships between dress and topics including social perception, impression formation, identity, cultural patterns and rituals, and body image. Box features highlighting applications to the fashion industry, end-of-chapter summaries, and discussion questions to further engage students in their study of dress. New to this Edition: -New Dress Research in the News, Application t

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Book Synopsis‘From inspiration to sketch, pattern to fabric, the making of a dress has been the structure that has held me, and my passion to dress others is the momentum of my life.’ Jenny Packham is one of Britain’s leading designers and most in-demand couturiers, known for her exquisite dresses made for brides, celebrities and even royalty. In How to Make a Dress, she explores her creative journey in a brilliant meditation on life and style.Beginning with the search for creative inspiration and taking us into her studio then onto the red carpet and beyond, she asks the questions that have preoccupied us for centuries: What makes the perfect dress? What do our clothes mean to us? And why do we dress the way we do? Whether she is on the trail of Marilyn Monroe in LA, designing a bespoke piece for the red carpet or sketching for a new collection, Jenny documents her pursuit of the eternal truths of style. Decades in the making, How to Make a Dress is an unforgettable book for anyone who has ever loved a piece of clothing.Trade ReviewCaptivating—Sunday ExpressFascinating—GraziaHow to Make a Dress is inspirational. It shows the relevance of fashion in everyday life - undertaking a cool analysis of your closet the Packham way reveals more than garments but the tale of an interesting past. The mad, mad mistakes, the ridiculous dreams, that unworn touch of regret. Unlike most designers Packham acknowledges the word sexy when it comes to dressing and chooses Marilyn Monroe as a Muse. Taut as the seams that hold the top A-listers on the red carpet, it's so much more than frock and roll.—Eve Pollard OBEI love this book. It's a very beautiful and intimate insight into the creative mind. Jenny takes us on the journey from her childhood to the glamourous world of dressing the red carpet stars with such refreshing honesty. I couldn't put it down!—Deborah Brett, fashion editorI really enjoyed this book, the photographs are fabulous, and the stories even better. I just could not put this down, can't wait for the next one!—Richard Young, photographerPackham details her inspirations, struggles and successes in a style that is as lyrical and dreamy as one of her own satin and gauze confections.—Town and CountryWhat a beautiful story. Not only does it take you through the journey of her inspiration and the making of her gorgeous pieces but I love the details of Jenny's personal life. I read it in one sitting and I loved it.—Jessica Paster, celebrity stylistJenny writes with an eye for colour, a feel for romance and an unerring instinct for the pertinent detail. Passionate about fashion and unpersuaded by its excesses, How To Make A Dress is a total treat.—David Downton

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Book SynopsisThe Practical Guide to Patternmaking for Fashion Designers: Menswear offers patternmaking techniques for a variety of garment styles and includes information on sizing, lining and a variety of fabrics. Covering everything from casual to tailored designs, it can serve both as an introduction to the pattern-drafting skills necessary for menswear and as a more in-depth treatment of patternmaking techniques. The guide covers the patternmaking process for an array of menswear garments, as well as the accompanying theories and concepts.Table of Contents* Introduction to Patternmaking * Taking Measurements, Body Forms, Live Models * Drafting the Basic Sloper Set * Shirts * Vests * Pants * Jackets and Coats * Linings TEXT FEATURES * Pattern charts for a range of sizes * Size conversion charts * Specification sheets * Learning Activities

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Book SynopsisPrior to the 1970s-1980s, fashion marketing focused heavily (and perhaps solely) on women's fashions. Today, fashion marketing influences all products and the manner of style consumers use products. How products are marketed, when products are marketed, the evolution of products into different sizes, shapes, color, and uses are all influenced by fashion marketers. Fashion marketing is taken to different levels from branding a person (e.g., Ralph Lauren, the person), line of products (e.g., Lexus luxury cars) to a single product (e.g., Coach handbag). This much needed text will provide information regarding the introduction, making and machine the industry calls Fashion Marketing. Features: -- Addresses how branding and imaging of fashion, once used for a product or product line, is now used for the company spokesperson, owner, or representative -- Looks at the industry through a global perspective -- Case Studies including company logo and discussion of the company's impact on fashion marketing -- Online links throughout the chapter for students and instructors to investigate fashion marketing around the U.S. and world -- End of chapter elements include: summary, list of key terms, 3-4 assignments, discussion questions, study questions, and references -- Appendix includes glossary, bibliography and references (both for citations within text and for further study), index for subject and company -- Instructor's Guide includes exams with answers -- PowerPoint(r) Presentation provides outlines and ideas for lectures; compatible with PC and Mac platformsTrade ReviewAs far as I can see this book is the most practical introduction to fashion marketing. Besides the fact that it covers a broad variety of topics, all informations are up-to-date and the Terms/Questions sections at the end of each chapter are able to generate a deeper interest and understanding by students. -- Alexander Bretz, Mediadesign Fachhochschule - University of Applied Sciences, GermanyTable of ContentsThe Impact of Fashion Branding and Image Fashion Marketing The Buying Season: Marketing Fashions to Retailers Targeting the fashion consumer Cross Channel Shopping Crossing Product Boundaries Fashion and Entertainment Counterfeit merchandise, Ethics and Enforcement of the Law Marketing Fashions Globally

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Book SynopsisShows how cinematic treatments of fashion during times of crisis offer subtle reflections on the everyday lives, desires, careers, and self-perceptions of postwar German women. This book steers attention toward two key aspects of German culture - film and fashion - that shared similar trajectories and multiple connections, looking at them not only in the immediate postwar years but as far back as 1939. They formed spectacular sites of the postwar recovery processes in both East and West Germany. Viewed against the background of the abundant fashion discourses in the Berlin-based press, the films discussed include classics such as The Murderers Are among Us, Street Acquaintance, and Destinies of Women as well as neglected works such as And the Heavens above Us, Martina, Modell Bianka, and Ingrid. These films' treatments of fashion during times of crisis offer subtle reflections on the everyday lives, desires, careers, and self-perceptions of the women who made up a large majority of the postwar public. Costume - in films produced both by DEFA and by West German studios - is a productive site to explore the intersections between realism and escapism. With its focus on costumes within the context of the films' production, distribution, and reception, this book opens up wider discussions about the role of the costume designer, the ways film costumes can be read as intertexts, and the impact on audiences' behaviors and looks. The book reveals multiple connections between film and fashion, both across the temporal dividing line of 1945 and the Cold War split between East and West. Mila Ganeva is Department Chair and Professor of German at Miami University, Oxford, Ohio.Trade Review[A] captivating interpretation of fashion and film in 'the long 1940s' in Germany . . . . a valuable resource for scholars and students, as well as a lively and fascinating read for a broader audience. -- Victoria Vygodskaia-Rust * GERMAN STUDIES REVIEW *Meticulously researched...Ganeva's trenchant analysis shows how fashion maintained pretences of normality during wartime, bolstered the processes of postwar normalization, and eventually helped to define attitudes towards consumer culture and material abundance in a 1950s Germany divided between East and West. -- Marketa Uhlirova * SCREEN *With [this book] Mila Ganeva puts forth an insight-rich study of the cultural meaning of fashion in film and the press from the Nazi period to the beginnings of the Cold War in Berlin. . . . [C]learly written and precisely researched . . . . An important contribution to research on the female horizon of experience in the 1940s and 1950s. -- Jan Uelzmann * FILMBLATT *This interesting book sheds light on the [postwar] period [in Germany] by documenting that both [the film and fashion] industries cultivated a vision of the autonomous, professionally accomplished woman and that numerous women were able to achieve an independent existence within these industries. -- R. Bledsoe * CHOICE *The book . . . is outstandingly researched and fills a thematic gap in the literature of German film history. -- Hans Helmut Prinzler * WWW.HHPRINZLER.DE *Table of ContentsIntroduction Vicarious Consumption: Wartime Fashion in Film and the Press, 1939-44 "Fashions for Fräuleins": The Rebirth of the Fashion Industry and Media in Berlin after 1945 Vignette 1 - Charlotte Glückstein: Historical Ruptures and Continuities in Postwar Fashion Fashion amidst the Ruins: Revisiting Two Early Rubble Films, . . . und über uns der Himmel (1947) and Die Mörder sind unter uns (1946) Vignette 2 - Hildegard Knef: Star Appeal from Fashion to Film Farewell to the Rubble and Welcome to the New Look: Straßenbekanntschaft (1948) and Martina (1949) Consuming Fashion on the Screens of the Early 1950s: Modell Bianka (1951), Frauenschicksale (1952), and Ingrid: Die Geschichte eines Fotomodells (1955) Epilogue Appendix 1:Principal Costume and Fashion Designers: Biographical Notes Appendix 2: Films and Newsreels Discussed Notes Bibliography Index

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Book Synopsis

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Book Synopsis

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Book Synopsis

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Book SynopsisAn unmissable celebration of the most iconic and influential handbags in history, offering a visual journey through the aesthetic of each bag.

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Book SynopsisA style icon, a trendsetter, a princess: Lady Diana epitomised 80s and 90s style.With a well-earned place in the fashion hall of fame, Diana's style choices have influenced decades of style. From her ultimate 80s wedding dress to her off-duty sporty looks, and from classic Sloane Ranger preppiness to killer glamour, as celebrity fan Rihanna has said, "Every look was right".Featuring over 100 stunning photographs of Diana's key looks, Icons of Style – Diana explores how and why she chose the designers and styles she returned to time and time again, and what we can learn from her iconic wardrobe to cultivate our own style.A fun and complete guide to a modern-day icon's signature style.

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Book SynopsisIt''s an intersection of pop culture, politics, celebrity, entertainment and fashion, all colliding together for one stellar night out on the iconic steps of the Met. - Jeremy ScottGlitz, gossip and glamour! Step onto the red carpet of the most talked-about night in fashion.The Met Gala is the legendary event that fuses art, fashion and pop culture, sparking excitement and intrigue the world over. Through stunning images and captivating text, Fashion''s Big Night Out charts the history of the Met Gala from its inception in 1948, while celebrating all the risk-taking looks, breathtaking exhibitions and jaw-dropping celebrity moments that have shaped the Met Gala into what it is today. The book features a foreword by iconic designer, Jeremy Scott, creator of some of the most memorable Met Gala looks of all time, including a chandelier-clad Katy Perry.

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Book SynopsisA leading authority on the Bayeux Tapestry examines the work "frame by frame" in this profusely illustrated and annotated volume. The Bayeux Tapestry is one of the most extraordinary artefacts to survive from the eleventh century: a fragile web of woollen thread on linen, its brilliant colours undimmed after nearly a thousand years. The events of the years 1064 to 1066 surrounding the contested accession to the English throne of William, Duke of Normandy are so vividly portrayed that you can almost watch the artists' minds at work as they created it. This beautiful full-colour reproduction of the entire Tapestry includes a detailed commentary alongside each episode, so you can follow the story blow by blow.Trade Review[A] strikingly illustrated book, which reproduces in colour every centimetre of the surviving embroidery. [...] Admirably balanced and informed. * SUNDAY TIMES *[An] extremely valuable volume. [...] To be valued as both a survey of work on the tapestry and an extremely well presented and coherent analysis of a medieval masterpiece. * TOEBI Newsletter *A magnificently illustrated book, and as such is extremely practical for study, teaching and happy browsing. * FINDS RESEARCH GROUP *[Presents] a new slant, particularly the in-depth analysis of the tapestry's indebtedness to Scandinavia's weaponry, ships, and buildings. Recommended. * CHOICE *Possibly the most authoritative of the many books spawned by the Tapestry. * HISTORICAL NOVELS REVIEW *Handsome and very reasonably priced. Clearly aimed at the student and the general reader rather than at the specialist, it would be an attractive purchase for all three. * ENGLISH HISTORICAL REVIEW *A very interesting and informative book. * HOBILAR *

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Book SynopsisA captivating visual exploration of fashion and modern style as seen through the eyes of artists across the globe.Since the emergence of the seasonal fashion industry in the nineteenth century, Western artists have been engaging with fashion's impact, meaning and forms in their artwork. In portraits, the clothes that sitters wear are often revelatory about their wider context or identity. But as time has passed, sartorial details artists used to provide visual praise or condemnation of their subjects have lost their legibility. Exploring the variety of ways in which artists have engaged with such possibilities over the last two hundred years, this book examines the intricate relationship between the history of modern art and fashion, revealing the many ways modern fashion has featured within art and the ways art has, in fact, become fashion.Discover the relationship between the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood and the creation of the London department store

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