Description
Book SynopsisBonnie English was Associate Professor in Art History & Theory at the Queensland College of Art, Griffith University, Brisbane, Australia.Nazanin Hedayat Munroe is Director of Textiles and Assistant Professor of Business & Technology of Fashion at the NYC College of Technology - CUNY, where she lectures on textiles, historic dress, and contemporary issues in the fashion industry. A former Educator at the Metropolitan Museum, Nazanin is also a nationally acclaimed textile artist.
Trade ReviewThis edition has been updated to include key developments in fashion consumption and production, such as the impact of digital technology, climate change, economic downturns and geo-political shifts. It provides a comprehensive overview of the cultural history and future of fashion for students and researchers alike. -- Caroline Alexander, Senior Lecturer, BA Fashion, Kingston School of Art, UK
Praise for the previous edition: This book has been adopted as a textbook in fashion schools and it is easy to see why. It's a solid introduction to fashion history and to the significant social importance of fashion. The language is accessible and its coverage of relevant issues ...comprehensive. [It] is a good balance of interesting anecdotes and modern fashion theory, which means the book will appeal to both the general reader and to fashion scholars. -- TRC
English has created a very respectable academic treatment of the last century of fashion... What is most notable about the content of this volume is the way English handles her broad topic; there are some powerful fashion images in this book, but this is no pretty coffee table accessory. English selects unique subjects within fashion for each chapter and zeroes in to prevent a deluge of meaningless and broad historical summaries. -- WORN Fashion Journal
This new edition of Bonnie English's invaluable introduction to the cultural perspectives on fashion in the twentieth century expands upon her original text, covering and updating her investigation of both the commercial and cultural aspects of fashion. Situating fashion as both intercontextual and interdisciplinary, English provides a solid grounding of issues, concerns and debates that are essential to understand for any scholar of fashion. -- Shaun Cole, London College of Fashion, UK
This edition has encompassed all the intricacies of the fashion world and refreshingly included insight into the ‘business’ of the industry. A valuable tool for opening up the fashion world to students, and a one-stop read that will be entertaining for ‘fashionistas’ who are keen to learn more about the mysteries of fashion. -- Kay McMahon, Queensland University of Technology, Australia
[T]his book has a fine, thoughtful, well-researched approach to the subject of 20th- and 21st-century fashion history. I can imagine that a new student would be very inspired by this volume, having gotten a taste of the philosophy of Quentin Bell, an introduction to Yamamoto and Yves Saint Laurent, and a broad but nuanced sense of the chronology of cultural historical events and ideas. Laying a dynamic and intriguing groundwork for lifelong study,
A Cultural History of Fashion in the 20th and 21st Centuries would be an excellent starting point. -- Worn Through, Arianna Funk
Gives a comprehensive history of fashion in the 20th and 21st centuries, including fashion trends, influential designers and much much more... A fascinating fashion history text which is also surprisingly readable. -- We Heart Vintage, Mary Micouris
It's a great book to understand both the main actors and the more informal links of fashion labels in the field. -- Alexander Bretz, Mediadesign Fachhochschule, University of Applied Sciences, Germany
Table of ContentsIntroduction 1.The Commercialization of Fashion Dress and Society in Europe Before the Twentieth Century Social Implications of Dress The Rise of Haute Couture Charles Frederick Worth The Rise of Consumerism The Social Equalizer of the Department Store 2.The Artistry of Fashion Artist-Led Workshops Haute Couture at the Turn of the Twentieth Century Paul Poiret: King of Fashion The Goddess Silhouettes of Vionnet and Fortuny Sonia Delaunay: Simultaneous Contrast of Colours Elsa Schiaparelli: Surrealism in Fashion 3.The Democratization of Fashion Changes in Commerce and Social Structure The Art of Fashion Advertising Flooding the American Market: Reproductions and Fakes Coco Chanel: Pauvreté De Luxe Jean Patou: Style meets Scandal Fashion and Functionalist Theory Stepanova and Popova: Russian Constructivism Dressing Thousands: The Birth of Prêt-À-Porter 4.The Americanization of Fashion Slop Shops, Sweatshops, and Factory Work Fit and Function Piracy in Fashion American Couture The ‘American Look’ in Ready-to-Wear Changes in Menswear: Shirts, Jeans, and Suits Fashion in Film: Costume Designer as Couturier Fashion as Sociopolitical Statement: Zoot Suits 5.The Popularization of Fashion Haute Couture Following the Second World War Christobal Balenciaga Christian Dior Yves Saint Laurent André Courrèges Pierre Cardin Clothing and Popular Culture The Swinging ‘60s in London Mary Quant Alternative Fashion Zandra Rhodes Laura Ashley 6.The Postmodernization of Fashion Postmodernism in Fashion and Art The Rejection of Fashion Vivienne Westwood: Anarchy as Inspiration Fashion and Music Anti-Fashion as Feminism Japanese Conceptual Fashion: Miyake, Yamamoto and Kawakubo Redefining Popular Culture Through Heritage Contextualization 7.The Deviance of Fashion Franco Moschino Viktor & Rolf Martin Margiela Alexander McQueen Harajuku Street Fashion Fashion Imagery and Notions of Gender Construction The Reinvention of Menswear 8.The Lifestyle of Fashion American Sportswear Designers Ralph Lauren Calvin Klein Donna Karan Redefining Womenswear: Power Dressing Fashion as Ideological Billboard Street Style on the Catwalk 9.The Corporatization of Fashion Global Conglomerates LVMH: The Super Syndicate Luxury Heritage Branding The Designer as Product Fashion as Philanthropy and Installation Perfume: A License to Make Money The Death of Haute Couture? Counterfeit Chic Ecommerce and Online Shopping 10.The Sustainability of Fashion The Origins of Disposable Fashion Industry Issues: Waste, Pollution, and Labour Sustainable Alternatives Green is the New Black Vintage Clothing as Recycling Other Sustainable Approaches Ethical Concerns 11.The Digitization of Fashion Virtual Couture Technology in Fashion: A brief history Fashion and Technology in the 21st Century Hussein Chalayan Iris van Herpen Fashion as Future and Fantasy Representation and Inclusivity in Fashion Conclusion Notes Glossary Bibliography
