Fashion and textile design Books

Book Synopsis

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Book Synopsis

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Book Synopsis

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Book SynopsisThis book investigates the interconnections between textile and architecture via a variety of case studies from the Middle Ages through the twentieth century and from diverse geographic contexts. Among the oldest human technologies, building and weaving have intertwined histories. Textile structures go back to Palaeolithic times and are still in use today and textile furnishings have long been used in interiors. Beyond its use as a material, textile has offered a captivating model and metaphor for architecture through its ability to enclose, tie together, weave, communicate, and adorn. Recently, architects have shown a renewed interest in the textile medium due to the use of computer-aided design, digital fabrication, and innovative materials and engineering. The essays edited and compiled here, work across disciplines to provide new insights into the enduring relationship between textiles and architecture. The contributors critically explore the spatial and material qualities of textiles as well as cultural and political significance of textile artifacts, patterns, and metaphors in architecture. Textile in Architecture is organized into three sections: âœRitual Spaces,â which examines the role of textiles in the formation and performance of socio-political, religious, and civic rituals; âœPublic and Private Interiorsâ explores how textiles transformed interiors corresponding to changing aesthetics, cultural values, and material practices; and âœMateriality and Material Translations,â which considers textile as metaphor and model in the materiality of built environment. Including cases from Morocco, Samoa, France, India, the UK, Spain, the Ancient Andes and the Ottoman Empire, this is essential reading for any student or researcher interested in textiles in architecture through the ages.Table of ContentsPart 1: Ritual Spaces 1. The Red Tent in the Red City: The Caliphal Qubba in Almohad Marrakesh 2. "He will Lift off the Covering Which is Over All the Peoples": Seeing Through Medieval Lenten Veils 3. Architectural Space and Textiles: Tying Samoan Society Together Part 2: Public and Private Interiors 4. Le Rideau Tire: Interior Drapery, Architectural Space, and Desire in Eighteenth-Century France 5. The Fabric of the New: Mediating Architectural Change in Late Colonial India 6. Contrast and Cohesion: Textiles and Architecture in 1930’s London Part 3: Materiality and Material Translations 7. Textiles by Other Means: Seeing and Conceptualizing Textile Representations in Early Islamic Architecture 8. The Textility of the Alhambra 9. The Textile Foundations of Ancient Andean Architecture 10. The Ruler’s Clothes and the Manifold Dimensions of Textile Patterns on Muslim Funeral Architecture in the Mausoleum of the First Crimean Khans 11. A Tented Baroque: Ottoman Fabric (and) Architecture in the Long Nineteenth Century

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Book SynopsisThe sari has remained an essential part of culture, tradition and fashion in South Asia and India through many centuries. This book examines the variety of meanings which it carries as a symbol of Indian femininity and tradition as well as a means of creative fashion expression for modern India.It discusses the semiotic interpretations of the sari today by understanding its significance for traditional weavers, designers and people who wear saris at home, work or for religious or cultural occasions. Through surveys, interactions and interviews, the author explores the shared experience of wearing saris in different social and cultural settings across economic groups in farms and boardrooms as well as a means of creative expression for young Indians. It also looks at the processes involved in making traditional saris today, draping and weaving styles, buying behaviour, saris in pop-culture, pride parades and Bollywood and interpretations of what the sari signifies in differentTable of ContentsList of FiguresAcknowldegments The Sari Sakhis’ Lore | Sari friend’s experiences The Semiology of the Indian sari | Nayika : The Female protagonist The Sari Maker's Story Devi aur Aastha | Goddess and Belief The Maharani's Sari | The Queen’s sari – Past, Present and Future The Shaadi Vyaah Wali sari | wedding sari Indian Sari and the New World Inclusive Sari Glocal Sari Sari Shastra: Compendium for Indian Fashion system BibliographyIndex

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Book SynopsisThis book uses a quantitative science-based approach to explain where the greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions emitted by the fashion industry are generated and it explores what strategies can be deployed to achieve Net Zero by 2050.With GHG emissions currently predicted to triple by the middle of the century, the fashion industry is far off course to reach Net Zero, as set out in the Paris Agreement. With misinformation and greenwashing representing an ever-growing barrier to potential solutions, the book aims to demystify the source of GHG emissions from the industry, breaking down in detail their origin, while identifying the steps that can be taken when designing and sourcing new products. Detailing the market drivers and trends in fashion consumption, it argues that change should be guided by science-based quantitative principles. Accessibly written with key insights at the end of each chapter, this book will enable the reader to understand the tactics to tackle decarbonisatioTable of Contents1. The path to Net Zero for the fashion industry 2. Fashion in the 21st century 3. Introducing energy: time to understand "Scope 3" manufacturing emissions 4. Tier 4: low GHG materials selection 5. Tier 2: lowering energy consumption in dyeing, printing and finishing 6. Tier 1: going after the waste in garment manufacturing 7. Sustainable pathways for end-of-life products 8. Decarbonising the energy supply 9. A Net Zero fashion industry: the detox diet

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Book SynopsisGetting the right cut for the right fabric is the key to good design. One of the most challenging aspects of a fashion designer s training is learning how to crate patterns that utilize the characteristics of fabrics.Table of ContentsAcknowledgements 4 Introduction 5 Garment design and the selection of fabrics 6 Part One: Fabric Characteristics and Body Shape Chapter 1 Fabric characteristics and garment shapes 7 Chapter 2 Fabric testing 15 Chapter 3 Selecting fabrics 25 Part Two: Fabrics and Simple Pattern Cutting Chapter 4 Simple ‘flat’ cutting 61 Chapter 5 Simple ‘form’ cutting 79 Part Three: Fabrics and the Body Form Chapter 6 Cutting to fit the body form (woven fabrics) 95 Chapter 7 Crossway cutting 107 Chapter 8 Stretch fabrics and the body form 121 Part Four: Fabrics and Complex Cutting Chapter 9 Complex ‘flat’ cutting 135 Chapter 10 Supporting fabrics 149 Chapter 11 Combining fabrics 159 Part Five: Basic Textile Technology Chapter 12 Basic textile technology 171 Part Six: Model Figures and Garment Blocks Chapter 13 Model stands and figures to reproduce 183 Chapter 14 Creating the one-fifth and full-scale blocks (methods – manual, CAD or Internet access) 193 Appendices 217 Chapter index 221

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Book SynopsisTable of ContentsIntroduction 1 About This Book 1 Foolish Assumptions 2 Icons Used in This Book 2 Beyond the Book 3 Where to Go from Here 3 Part 1: Opening the Door To Sustainable Fashion 5 Chapter 1: Closet, Meet Sustainable Fashion 7 Understanding Sustainability 8 Preserving our planet and preventing climate change 8 Treating people with dignity and respect 8 Calling Out the Problem with Today’s Fashion Industry 9 The rise of fast fashion 9 A three-legged monster 10 Being Part of the Solution and Avoiding Eco-Anxiety 11 Taking Action: What You Can Do to Increase Sustainability 12 Chapter 2: Starting with the Clothes You Already Own 15 Taking Stock of Your Closet 16 Auditing your closet 16 Organizing your closet 19 Unlocking the Wow Factor in Clothes You Already Own 21 Knowing the color wheel 21 Mixing prints and patterns 22 Accessorizing for a different look 23 Using styling apps 24 Working with Outfit Formulas 25 Defining outfit formulas 26 Plugging in outfit formulas 26 Chapter 3: Adios, Fast Fashion 31 Identifying the Real Cost of Fast Fashion 32 Looking at the fast-fashion business model 32 Costing more than you may think 33 Taking a toll on garment workers 36 Adversely affecting the environment 39 Spotting Fast Fashion 42 Identifying popular fast-fashion brands 43 Spotting telltale signs that a brand is fast fashion 44 Moving Away from Fast Fashion and Toward Sustainability 46 Confronting Greenwashing 47 Taking a peek at sustainability 47 Spotting greenwashing 48 Chapter 4: Shifting to a Sustainable Fashion Mindset 51 Shopping as a Sustainable Fashion Consumer 52 Avoiding Impulse Buys 53 Use shopping lists 54 Take your time 56 Being Trendy and Sustainable 56 Avoiding Temptation 57 Detoxing your social media and inbox 58 Fasting from shopping 58 Being wary of sales 59 Finding a sustainable fashion community 60 Taking Pride in Repeating Outfits 60 Part 2: Purchasing Sustainable Fashion Items 63 Chapter 5: What Makes a Brand Sustainable? 65 Refuting Some Misconceptions about Sustainable Fashion 66 Looking at Sustainable Business Practices 67 Sustainable environmental practices 68 Transparent supply chain 73 Ethical labor practices 76 Reaching for Sustainable Fabrics 76 Natural sustainable fabrics 77 Innovative sustainable fabrics 81 Understanding What’s in It for You 83 Quality items that are designed to last 83 Small batches and made-to-order items 85 Timeless designs that won’t go out of style 86 Assessing a Brand’s Feel-Good Factor 86 Chapter 6: Buying Less but Choosing Well 89 Thinking Long Term 90 Calculating cost per wear 90 Deciding which items deserve the investment 94 Taking on the 30-wears challenge 95 Sizing Up Quality 96 Feeling fabric quality 96 Critiquing construction quality 98 Searching for perks 99 Assessing quality online 100 Choosing between natural fibers and synthetic fibers 101 Exploring Capsule Wardrobes 102 Creating your capsules 104 Gathering the capsule wardrobe essentials 106 Part 3: Going From Thrifting Beginner to Scouting Pro 109 Chapter 7: Easing into Secondhand Fashion 111 Starting Online 112 Getting started on the right foot 113 Going down the rabbit hole of online thrift stores 117 Measuring yourself for the perfect online thrifted fit 118 Finding Your New Favorite Used-Clothing Shop 122 Doing good by shopping at charity stores 123 Considering chain resale shops and consignment stores 124 Preparing for Your First Thrift Store Visit 125 Deciding when to go 126 Navigating the store 126 Dressing for thrifting success 127 Examining an item before you commit to it 128 Chapter 8: Upscaling Your Thrifting Efforts 129 Finding Hidden Gems 130 Buying Used Shoes 131 Examining used shoes 132 Knowing where to go 132 Disinfecting and cleaning shoes 133 Sorting Through Accessories 133 Jewelry 134 Scarves 135 Handbags 135 Belts 136 Shopping for Vintage Clothes 137 How to tell whether something is truly vintage 138 Where to find vintage clothing 141 Chapter 9: Donating, Selling, and Disposing of Clothes 145 Giving Your Clothes a Second Life 146 Donating Clothes to Support Charitable Organizations 147 The difference between for-profit and nonprofit shops 147 The scoop on tax deductions 148 Where to put all those clothes 149 The Dos and Don’ts of Donating Clothing 150 Making Some Cash by Selling Your Clothes 152 Consigning your clothes 152 Selling clothes to secondhand stores for cash or credit 154 Selling your preloved clothes by yourself 155 Saying Goodbye to Clothes That Have Lived Out Their Usefulness 157 Dealing with Undergarments and Socks Sustainably 158 Donating bras 158 Getting rid of old underwear 159 Recycling and repurposing old socks 159 Part 4: Keeping Your Clothes And Shoes in Tip-top Condition 161 Chapter 10: Caring for Your Clothes 163 Doing Laundry with Clothing Longevity in Mind 164 Making sense of labels 164 Understanding washer settings 166 Hand-washing delicates, sweaters, and more 168 Drying clothes differently 169 Keeping clothes fresh without over-washing 171 Deciding on dry-cleaning 172 Caring for Different Fabrics 174 Cleaning your cotton clothes 174 Avoiding shrinking your wools 174 Removing and preventing pilling 175 Saving your silks 176 Chasing the moths away 176 Making synthetics last 177 Loving your linens 178 Removing Stains 179 Deciding How to Store Your Clothes 180 Clothes you should hang 180 Clothes you should fold 181 Chapter 11: Repairing and Upcycling Your Clothes 183 Making Your Fashion Circular 184 Getting Your Thread Wet 185 Prepping your sewing kit 185 Stitching up for sewing success 186 Repairing Your Clothes with Basic Hand-Stitching 187 Using a running stitch 187 Doing the backstitch 188 Sewing on a button 189 Repairing a seam 191 Patching a torn or threadbare spot 192 Fixing snagged clothing 193 Joining the Upcycling Movement 195 Tie-dyeing your old shirts with avocado skins and pits 195 Making old jeans new again 196 Investing in Alterations or Other Significant Repairs 198 Knowing what alterations specialists can help you with 199 Finding someone who does quality work 199 Chapter 12: Walking Miles in Your Favorite Shoes 201 Considering Why Caring for Your Shoes Is a Shoo-In 202 Prolonging the Life of Your Leather Shoes 203 Everyday maintenance of leather shoes 203 Occasional maintenance of your leather shoes 205 Keeping Your Sneakers Clean 208 Machine-washing your sneakers 209 Hand-washing sneakers 209 Using Shoe Protectants 210 Storing Your Shoes Properly 211 Part 5: the Part of Tens 213 Chapter 13: Ten Sustainable Brands for Every Budget and Style 215 Loud Bodies 216 Wayre 216 Passion Lilie 217 Whimsy + Row 217 Amour Vert 218 Mara Hoffman 218 Kotn 218 Outerknown 219 Parade 219 Organic Basics 220 Chapter 14: Ten Ways to Shop Sustainably on a Budget 221 Shop Your Closet 222 Shop Secondhand 223 Shop Intentionally 223 Look for Affordable Sustainable Brands 224 Check the Sale and Preloved Page 224 Attend Clothing Swaps 224 Check Resale Sites 225 Consider Clothing Rentals 225 Calculate the Cost per Wear 226 Upcycle Your Clothes for a New Look 227 Chapter 15: Ten Perfect Clothing Items for Your Thrift List 229 Quality Coats 229 Special Occasion Clothes 230 Trendy Fashion 231 Nice-to-Have Luxury Items 231 Boss Blazers 232 Cool Leather Jackets 232 Fabulous Scarves 233 Cozy Knitwear 233 Clutch Bags 234 Versatile and Statement Belts 234 Your Favorite Pair of Jeans 235 Chapter 16: Ten Family-Friendly Sustainable Clothing Brands 237 Pact 238 For Days 238 Jackalo 239 Conscious Step 239 Patagonia 240 Tentree 240 Loop Swim 241 Many Moons 241 Firebird Kids 242 Mightly 242 Chapter 17: Ten Sustainable Shoe Brands 243 Veja 244 Veerah 244 Etiko 245 Nisolo 245 Wildling 246 Cariuma 246 Ethletic 247 Thesus 247 Good Guys 247 Pozu 248 Index 249

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Book SynopsisHistorical Wig Styling: Victorian to the Present, 2nd edition, is a guide to creating beautiful, historically accurate hairstyles for theatrical productions and events. This volume covers hairstyles from the Victorian era through the contemporary styles of today. Chapters begin with an overview of historic figures and styles that influenced the look of each period, followed by step-by-step instructions and photographs showing the finished look from every angle. The book also explores the necessary supplies and styling products needed to create the perfect coif, tips for proper wig handling, a brief history of the makeup for each historical period, and basic styling techniques useful when working with wigs or real hair. New hairstyles featured in this edition include:- Civil War era women- Late Victorian African-American men- 1910s'' Full width style women- 1920s'' glossy waves- 1940s'' Victory rolls- 1950s'' PooTable of ContentsAcknowledgementsChapter 1. Introduction to Wig Styling Techniques Chapter 2. Early Victorian Era (1835-1860) Chapter 3. Mid-/Late Victorian (1860-1885) Chapter 4. The Gay Nineties (1885-1901) Chapter 5. Edwardian Era/Gibson Girl (1901-1910) Chapter 6. The Teens (1911-1920) Chapter 7. The Roaring Twenties (1920-1929) Chapter 8. The 1930s (1930-1939) Chapter 9. The 1940s (1940-1949) Chapter 10. The 1950s (1950-1959) Chapter 11. The 1960s (1960-1969) Chapter 12. The 1970s (1970-1979) Chapter 13. The 1980s to the Present Chapter 14. Non-Western Hairstyling Appendix 1—Glossary of Hairstyling and Makeup Terms Appendix 2—List of Historical Films and Television Shows Set in Each Era Appendix 3—List of Wig and Hair SuppliersIndex

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Book SynopsisTable of ContentsTable of Contents SECTION ONE: INTRODUCTION TO TEXTILES 1. Introduction 2. Product Development from a Textile Perspective SECTION TWO: FIBERS 3. Textile Fibers and Their Properties 4. Natural Cellulosic Fibers 5. Natural Protein Fibers 6. The Fiber Manufacturing Process 7. Manufactured Regenerated Fibers 8. Synthetic Fibers 9. Special-Use Fibers SECTION THREE: YARNS 10. Yarn Processing 11. Yarn Classification SECTION FOUR: FABRICATION 12. Weaving, Basic Weaves and Fabrics 13. Fancy Weaves and Fabrics 14. Knitting and Knit Fabrics 15. Other Fabrication Methods SECTION FIVE: FINISHING 16. Finishing: An Overview 17. Aesthetic Finishes 18. Special-Purpose Finishes 19. Dyeing and Printing SECTION SIX: OTHER ISSUES RELATED TO TEXTILES 20. Care of Textile Products 21. Legal, Sustainability, and Environmental Issues 22. Career Exploration GLOSSARY INDEX

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Book SynopsisThe fashion business has been collecting and analyzing information about colors, fabrics, silhouettes, and styles since the 18th century - activities that have long been shrouded in mystery. The Fashion Forecasters is the first book to reveal the hidden history of color and trend forecasting and to explore its relevance to the fashion business of the past two centuries. It sheds light on trend forecasting in the industrial era, the profession's maturation during the modernist moment of the 20th century, and its continued importance in today''s digital fast-fashion culture. Based on in-depth archival research and oral history interviews, The Fashion Forecasters examines the entrepreneurs, service companies, and consultants that have worked behind the scenes to connect designers and retailers to emerging fashion trends in Europe, North America, and Asia. Here you will read about the trend studios, color experts, and international trade fairs that formalized the prediction pTrade ReviewA welcome contribution to the under-researched area of fashion prediction through ‘a series of cultural biographies of influential forecasters and forecasting entities’ ... Includes excellent full-colour photographs and particularly fascinating reproductions of archival materials ... These books are exceptional collections of essays, timely in their arrival and inspirational in terms of the continued broadening scope of work to be done on US and global fashion. * Journal of Design History (joint-reviewed with The Hidden History of American Fashion) *Through carefully chosen case studies, the book provides a detailed blueprint of the development of fashion forecasting from its humble beginning in nineteenth century Paris, into a mature and complex service business in the age of big data and digital innovation. The Fashion Forecasters effectively weaves together personal narratives with archival sources, and will be of interest to academics, students, and those interested in the past, present and future of colour and trend prediction in the fashion industry. * The Design Journal *The intuition, “sixth-sense”, and impeccable taste of fashion forecasters is well worth this book’s insightful analysis. How they predict who will wear what - and when - is the intriguing story of this comprehensive anthology. -- Mary Westerman Bulgarella, Co-editor of Colors in Fashion, and Costume Colloquium Advisory Committee Coordinator, Italy/USAFor a field that is obsessed with the future, there is much to be learned from the past, as editors Blaszczyk and Wubs provide an engaging overview of the history of forecasting, giving overdue credit to the industry’s originators. Meticulously researched with excellent first-person accounts, The Fashion Forecasters untangles the web of current forecasting influences and creates a clear vision for its future. -- Lorynn R. Divita, Baylor University, USATable of ContentsList of Illustrations List of Tables Acknowledgments 1. Beyond the Crystal Ball: The Rationale Behind Color and Trend Forecasting Regina Lee Blaszczyk and Ben Wubs Part I: When Paris Led and America Followed 2. The Rise of Color Forecasting in the United States and Great Britain Regina Lee Blaszczyk 3. Tobé Coller Davis: A Career in Fashion Forecasting in America Véronique Pouillard and Karen J. Trivette Part II: Going International 4. From Window Dresser to Fashion Forecaster: David Wolfe of the Doneger Group Tells How He Got Started in Trends 5. What Do Baby Boomers Want? How the Swinging Sixties Became the Trending Seventies Regina Lee Blaszczyk 6. The View from Paris: Nelly Rodi and the Early Days of French Trend Forecasting 7. Fibers, Feathers, and the Future: Ornella Bignami on the Importance of Materials 8. Fashion Prediction and the Transformation of the Japanese Textile Industry: The Role of Kentaro Kawasaki, 1950–1980 Pierre-Yves Donzé 9. Interstoff’s Fashion Table: The Internalization of Fashion Forecasting at the World’s Most Important Fashion Fabric Fair Ben Wubs 10. The Role of the Pitti Uomo Trade Fair in the Menswear Fashion Industry Mariangela Lavanga Part III: The Digital Imperative 11. Looking Behind the Scenes of Swedish Fashion Forecasting Ingrid Giertz-Mårtenson 12. Trending Online: Valerie Wilson Trower Discusses Stylesight in the Asia Pacific Region 13. Fast Fashion, Fast Futures: Catronia McNab on WGSN and the Global Digital World Part IV: Conclusion 14. Fashion Futures Regina Lee Blaszczyk and Ben Wubs Select Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisThrough object-based case studies of garments from the ancient past through to the 21st century, Margaret Maynard reveals the countless ways the temporal is woven into our attire. From the physical effects of age on garments to their changing cultural significance, time and fashion are inextricably linked. Every garment has its own pace and narrative, and every dress practice is rich with temporal associations: wearing' time in the form wristwatches, marking key moments in time from marriage to death, defying' time with beauty products, preserving and re-imagining time through vintage, and concepts of timeless' and classic' styles. This ground-breaking book presents a complete rethinking of the study of global fashion history, revealing the complex nature of changing fashion when viewed through the lens of time and challenging Eurocentric approaches such as the periodization of style and the arbitrary division of western' and non-western' fashion. Fashion in Time is essential rTrade ReviewDrawing on a lifetime of scholarship, Margaret Maynard uses time to explore the complexity of dress in a whirlwind account across global history, revealing diverse clothing practices from the adorned bodies of ancient times to 3D-printed dress styles of today. * Karen Tranberg Hansen, Northwestern University, USA *Margaret Maynard is a pioneer in global fashion studies and her new book, Dressed in Time, creatively approaches the field with rigor and purpose. Unpacking different notions of temporality in the light of varying cultural relationships, exchanges and memories, this book is an invaluable intervention. Snapshots contained in each chapter of this book provide readers with the perfect companion to interrogate and understand digital resources and archival material. If you've ever pondered how to meet the challenges ahead for fashion studies, this book is for you. * Regina A. Root, College of William & Mary, USA *Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Preface Acknowledgements 1. About Time Focus 1 a Wearing Time on the Body Focus 1 b Dress, Value and Time 2. Deep Time: The Origins of Dress Focus 2 a Ancient Footwear. What is its Significance? Focus 2 b Mystery! An Egyptian Garment 3. Context: What Does it Mean? Focus 3 a The Puzzle of Dates Focus 3 b What are “1920s” Fashions? 4. Cultural Exchange: Past and Present Focus 4 a Who Should Own the Past? Focus 4 b The Kimono Controversy 5. Rituals: The Significance of Time Focus 5 a Relics: Remains of a Past or Not? Focus 5 b First Nation Cloaks: Identity Reclaimed 6. The Wardrobe Story Focus 6 a A Wife: What is She Worth? Focus 6 b Time to Change 7. Dress: Time and Cultural Memory Focus 7 a Time: Displaying Sartorial Memories Focus 7 b Fashion: No Present Without a Past 8. Unfixed: Time and Dress Focus 8 a Can Fashion be Timeless? Focus 8 b Replicas: Engaging with Time Select Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisPacked with examples from groundbreaking designers such as Vivienne Westwood, Stella McCartney, Edun and People Tree, A Practical Guide to Sustainable Fashion is a much-needed overview of current models of fashion design and production. Alison Gwilt introduces the key issues associated with the production, use and disposal of fashion clothing and gives step-by-step guidance on how to identify and evaluate the potential impacts of a garment during the design process.With innovative examples of best practice from international designers and brands, the chapters follow each key stage in the life cycle of a fashion garment and explores approaches such as low-impact textiles techniques, mono-materiality, zero waste techniques, upcycling, repair and maintenance techniques and closed-loop design systems.New to this edition: More in-depth coverage of design thinking, materials manufacture, practical techniques for creating faster' recyclable fashion and new ways forward foTable of Contents1. Rethinking fashion design The supply chain The key issues Developments in sustainable fashion The future of fashion Spotlight on: Katharine Hamnett Exercise 1: Reflecting on sustainable fashion 2. The life cycle of a garment Life cycle thinking Activities and impacts Assessment tools and models Sustainable design strategies Spotlight on: Stella McCartney Interview: Amina Razvi Exercise 2: Comparing two garments 3. Design Garment design Spotlight on: Designing for empathy Exercise 3: Designing for empathy Selecting fabrics, materials and techniques Spotlight on: Using mono-materials Interview: Christopher Raeburn 4. Production Pattern-making and toiling Spotlight on: Zero-waste techniques Exercise 4: Working with geometric Construction Spotlight on: Design for longevity Interview: Zoltan Csaki 5. Distribution Suppliers and producers Spotlight on: Engaging with local communities Interview: Lizzie Harrison Retail Spotlight on: Designing for need Exercise 5: Designing for inclusive fashion 6. Use Patterns of use Spotlight on: Reducing laundering Repair and maintenance Spotlight on: Design for repair Exercise 6: Designing modular garments Interview: Joakim Levin 7. End-of-life... Reuse and remanufacture Spotlight on: Upcycling Exercise 7: Personalizing fashion through upcycling Interview: Cynthia Power Material recycling Spotlight on: Closed-loop production Glossary Online resources Student resources Bibliography Index Acknowledgements

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Book SynopsisWhere do shoppers meet before heading out to browse the stores? Why might they go to a particular shop and not another? What first attracts them to a brand or garment? Visual merchandising is concerned with all these questions, spanning the relationship between consumer, environment, brand and product. As part of the Basics Fashion Management series, Bailey and Baker introduce the principles underpinning successful visual merchandising using examples from budget, mid-range and luxury brands. These real-world examples take the form of detailed case studies and interviews, providing hands-on advice from all levels of industry. This revised edition includes additional coverage of online visual merchandising, lighting techniques, mannequin dressing and integrating technology into displays.Table of ContentsIntroduction Chapter 1: Research and Design - Visual design development; Model making and experimentation; Concept development; Presentation and communication of design concepts; 25 visual themes; Interview; Interview; Activities Chapter 2: Display Design Basics – Line; Composition; Texture; Colour; Lighting; Interview: focus on lighting; Activities Chapter 3: Space Planning Principles - Store architecture and retail formats; Space hierarchy; Space planning layouts; Customer navigation; Journey to sale; Case study; Activities Chapter 4: Displaying Merchandise - Retail windows; Mannequins: best practice guide; Selection of fashion merchandise; Landscaping; Fixtures; Case study; Case study; Activities Chapter 5: The Customer Experience - Designing the customer experience; Where do visual merchandisers work?; Working in the visual merchandising industry; Portable and pop-up stores; Interview; Activities Chapter 6: The Future of Visual Merchandising - Shopping trends and innovations; Technology and digital visual merchandising – expanded; Sustainability – expanded; Internationalisation; Case study: technology; Interview: online visual merchandiser; Activities Appendix – Resources; Glossary: expanded from first edition; Index; Acknowledgements

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Book SynopsisFashion's great innovations often spring from inspired designers developing unique concepts and challenging the status quo. But how do they do it? To find out, follow ten exceptional fashion design students as they respond to a brief, exploring their diverse strategies and the thinking behind their final collections.This second edition of Fashion Thinking features six new interviews, with insight from the director of Open Style Lab, Grace Jun, and Yeohlee Teng, whose designs have earned a permanent place in the Costume Collection at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. There are also four new case studies, incorporating new technology including adaptive design for the visually impaired and the use of augmented reality.Beautifully illustrated and structured to clearly demonstrate how to take ideas from concept to design, Fashion Thinking demystifies the creative thinking process to help you develop your own unique collection.Fashion Thinking also has its own coTable of ContentsForeword by Shelley Fox CONTEXT An introduction to process Challenging the Status Quo Establishing Systems >The Design Cycle >Linear versus Random Idea Generation Research Exploration Design Translation 1: Hope for the Future by Janelle Abbott (Zero Waste) Perspective: Fashion + Sustainability, Timo Rissanen 2: Virtual Appropriation by Melitta Baumeister Perspective: Fashion + Architecture, Siki Im 3: My Wonderland by Leaf Xia Perspective: The Collective | Fashion + Art, Gabi Asfour and Adi Gil of threeASFOUR 4: Knitting and Pleating by Jie Li Perspective: Genderless Design + Socio-Political Awareness, Private Policy [Haoran Li & Siying Qu] 5: Via by Camila Chiriboga Perspective: Universal Design | Open Style Lab, Grace Jun 6: Trompe l'oeil by Sara Bro-Jorgensen Perspective: Zero Waste Design Ethos, Yeohlee Teng 7: Umbrella Ghosts by Tiffany Huang and Kailu Guan Perspective: Education + Professional Development, Sara Kozlowski 8: Tensegrity by Aura Taylor Perspective: Fashion Journalism, Humanitarianism + Body Positivity, Mickey Boardman 9: Techno Naturology by Elaine Ng Yan Ling Perspective: Textiles | Graduate Studies, Preethi Gopinath 10: Excessivism By Ji Won Choi Perspective: Design + Labor | Fashion Studies, Christina Moon Further Resources Glossary Acknowledgements

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Book SynopsisA step-by-step guide to two essential tools for textile and fashion designers. Designer and educator Robert Hume guides you from novice to expert through 20 carefully crafted projects. You'll start by mastering layers and custom brushes, learning about stripes and weaves, scanning and manipulation before moving on to repeats, colorways, and simple geometry. Next, transformations, filters and effects become tools for your personal creativity and you'll explore varied approaches to drawing garments. Finally, you'll learn about key layout and presentation techniques in both programs. There's also advice on sharing, communication and output, and help with diagnosing and correcting common problems. Files for many of the projects are available from: www.bloomsburyonlineresources.com/fashion-and-textile-design-with-photoshop-and-illustrator-2eSeven case studies showcase the work and creative thinking of innovative professional designers. These designers offer insight and inspiration to helpTrade ReviewThis is an excellent book. It will be an essential text for [my course module] … It’s well written, illustrated and easy to follow. * Timothy Bones, West Kent College, UK *This book is a game changer in that it is one of the few offerings which focus on what students want to know. Every page is easy to follow with very clear diagrams and illustrations and an excellent breakdown of each task. I wish I’d had this book when I was learning how to use the software! -- Naomi Austin, Senior Lecturer in Fashion Design and Promotion, The University of Sunderland, UKTable of ContentsIntroduction How to use this book Why choose Photoshop and Illustrator for designing for textiles and fashion The differences between Photoshop and Illustrator The projects 1. Level 1 A Brief Explanation of Photoshop Terms Project 1: Photoshop: Layers and Custom Brushes Project 2: Photoshop: New Ways of Drawing Project 3: Photoshop: Scanning Drawings for Editing and Recoloring Project 4: Photoshop: Vector Drawing and Brushes Applied as Strokes Project 5: Photoshop: Stripes and Weaves Case Study: Wallace Sewell 2. Level 2 Project 6: Photoshop: Repeats and Colorways Project 7: Color Theory in Practice Project 8: Photoshop: Fills, Textures, and Layers Project 9: Illustrator: Paths to Fashion Project 10: Simple Geometry in Illustrator Project 11: Repeat Patterns in Illustrator Case Study: Nadine Bucher Project 12: Illustrator: Photoshop and Filters Case Study: Tord BoontJe 3. Level 3 Project 13: Illustrator: The Blob and Art Brushes Project 14: Generating Complexity with Simple Tools Project 15: Illustrator: Flats Project 16: Illustrator: All the Trimmings Project 17: Illustrator: Drawing with a Silhouette Project 18: Illustrator: Layout Project 19: Illustrator: Presentation Project 20: Photoshop: Presentation Case Study: Printfresh Studio Case Study: C&A Designers 4. Sharing, Communication and Output User-friendly Formats Output The Importance of Color Communication Case Study: A Factory Perspective Case Study: A Designer’s Perspective Appendix Help and Some Problem Diagnosis

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Book SynopsisPatternmaking for Dress Design covers patternmaking techniques for 9 iconic dress designs, focusing not only on the concepts needed to draft patterns, but also uniquely exploring the history of each garment design to reveal what lies behind their enduring appeal today. Each chapter provides easy-to-follow patterns for the sheath, empire, shift, trapeze, wrap, strapless, shirtwaist, cheongsam and coatdress.Trade ReviewPatternmaking for Dress Design is a marvelous combination of history, and why these dresses are considered iconic, and practice, detailing how to create some of the most popular styles in fashion and theatre design. Perfect for novice patternmakers, the instructions and illustrations are clear and provide many tips on not only how to draft the pattern, but how to achieve the perfect fit. -- Lisa Borton, Costume Designer, University of Michigan-Flint, USAThis is an essential pattern-cutting manual for designers who wish to create iconic dress styles. Written in an accessible way, it provides clear and easy-to-follow instructions, as well as exciting illustrations of the patterns and the garments themselves. -- Dr Kevin Almond, Lecturer in Fashion, University of Leeds, UKTable of ContentsIntroduction 1. The Empire-waist Dress 2. The Sheath Dress 3. The Shift Dress 4. The Trapeze Dress 5. The Wrap Dress 6. The Strapless Dress 7. The Shirtwaist Dress 8. The Coat Dress 9. The Cheongsam Glossary Bibliography Acknowledgements/Image Credits

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Book SynopsisTextiles and Fashion explores the integration oftextile design with fashion, showing the manyways designers use fibre, fabric construction andsurface treatments within a garment and on thebody. It begins with a brief history of textiles infashion, showing the links with technical innovationand social developments. You'll then briefly learnabout the processes of textile design, includingethical and environmental considerations, aswell as fibre production, dyeing and finishintechniques, before moving on to making the most ofdifferent surface treatments and the ways in whichcolour and trend influence fashion and textiles. This 3rd edition includes updated coverage ofemerging technologies, including smart textilesand 3D printing, and interviews with fashiondesigners to offer insight into how they use textilesin their work. Overall, this is the ideal introductionto using textiles within a fashion context.Table of ContentsIntroduction 1. The Textile Sample A very brief history of textiles Future fabrics Designing textiles Basic textile design principles Textiles into production Interview: Duncan Cheetham Projects: Drawing and mark making 2. Fibres Natural fibres Man-made fibres New fibre developments Yarn Dyeing Dyeing effects Finishing processes Interview: Manel Torres Project: Finishing techniques 3. Fabric Construction Weave Developed weave structures Knit Other forms of construction Interview: Tina Lutz Project: Design development 4. Surface Treatments Print Printing media Pattern Embroidery and fabric manipulation Embroidery techniques Embellishment Interview: James Stone Project: Reinventing a classic 5. Colour and Trends Colour Colour and design The trend industry Flow of information Interview: Philippa Wagner Project: Trends 6. Textiles Used in Fashion Design Choosing fabrics for fashion design Function Aesthetics Cost and availability Market level and genre Designing with textiles Garment construction Interview: Anne Sofie Madsen Project: Deconstruct – reconstruct Conclusion Glossary Bibliography Useful resources

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Book SynopsisIn this essential introduction to contemporary printed textile design, designer and educator Alex Russell explores creative and commercial studio practice, including:- developing sophisticated skills with image and colour- how to make effective use of context in your work- strategies for a career in designYou'll learn how history and technology shape print design, plus how to balance innovation with industry requirements, including fashion, home interiors, giftware and stationery. There's practical advice on developing a professional portfolio, and how good communication skills can get your work noticed. This updated edition includes expanded sections on digital design and social media, and their impact on portfolio development, manufacturing, and promotion, as well as advice on establishing an ethical, sustainable practice for the future.Table of Contents1. An Overview of Printed Textile Design History The Digital Revolution Environmental and Ethical Issues Professional Contexts 2. The Creative Design Process The Brief Research, Development and Final Designs Colour Design Composition 3. Technology, Tools and Professional Practice Printing Technologies and Design Design Tools, Space and Process Professional Practice 4. Designing for the World Design and Industry Design and Global Issues Design and Communication 5. Design Style and Content Design Categories Colourways and Co-Ordinates Balancing Tradition and Innovation 6. Working as a Designer Building Collections Building Portfolios Building a Career Bibliography Glossary Acknowledgements

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Book SynopsisHow do fashion designers conceive of, develop and ultimately launch commercially and creatively successful collections? Developing a Fashion Collection walks you through the process, exploring research techniques, sources of inspiration, forecasting trends and designing for different markets. From couture to high street, knitwear to accessories and covering the implications of online shopping there''s advice on every aspect of creating your collection through 27 insightful interviews with international practitioners. Interviewees include John Mooney, Brand Creative Director at ASOS and Jane Palmer Williams, Head of Executive Development at LVMH.This 3rd edition also covers silhouette, fittings and final samples, sustainable practice, developing high street collections, fabric selection and finding inspiration through vintage designs.Trade ReviewA feast of visual stimuli, this inspirational guide offers insider information and intelligent references from industry-recognized professionals. -- Hywel Davies, Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London, UKA clear road map with inspiring examples and industry insights, this new edition provides an up-to-date, holistic view of what ought to be considered when building a successful fashion collection. An essential read for our fashion design students. -- Aki Choklat, College for Creative Studies, Detroit, USAThis book demystifies the fundamental process of developing a collection and will be a core text for any fashion design course, and a ‘go to’ for young aspiring fashion designers with its combination of essential terms and best practices. -- Leslie Holden, Co-Founder of the Digital Fashion GroupThis book supports the reader, from how to select research ideas and use them, to developing these ideas into something relevant to the final product. I would recommend to all students. -- Adrien Roberts, Accademia Costume and Moda, Italy and trustee of Graduate Fashion FoundationTable of ContentsIntroduction 1. What is a Collection? How to Start a Collection Market Research Inspiration Fabric Sourcing Silhouette Development Forecasting Trends Archiving Editing Collections The Team Fittings and Samples Showing the collection Interviews: Martin Raymond, The Future Laboratory Steven Philip The Mr. Steven Philip Catherine Teatum & Rob Jones, Teatum Jones Rebekah Roy Joshua Kane 2. Collections and Their Influences Background Historical Cultural Conceptual Functional Political Futuristic Artistic Sustainable Interviews: Fiona Stuart, Rellik Dr. Noki Tracy Mulligan, People Tree Duran Lantink Bianca Saunders 3. Designing for Different Markets Haute Couture Ready-to-wear Designer Labels Luxury Brands Designer Collaborations High Street Online Shopping Interviews: Giles Deacon Sadie Clayton Charles Jeffrey Maria Olofsgard, COS John Mooney, ASOS Jane Palmer Williams, LVMH 4. Specialist Collections Childrenswear Knitwear Print Denim Active Sportswear Corporate wear Interviews: Eva Karayiannis, Caramel Baby & Child Matty Bovan Nicolas Garcia, Roberto Cavalli Charli Cohen Jonathan Cheung, Levi’s Design Will Broome 5. The Student Collection The Brief Your Portfolio Research and Development Presentation Interviews: Saskia Lenaerts Victoria Lyons Megan Greenfield Edie Ashley Lynn Sungurtekin Margret Sam Conclusion

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Book SynopsisAre you a researcher struggling to mine and make sense of a mountain of fashion data? Are you interested in learning about how digital methods and tools could enhance your research? Have you thought about ways to spark and engage in academic conversations on social media? Have you wondered how digital technologies are internationalizing the field of fashion and textile studies? Digital Research Methods in Fashion and Textile Studies presents the reader with a variety of digital methodologies to help build skills in searching for, analyzing, and discussing vintage design, photography, and writing on fashion, as well as historic and ethnographic dress and textile objects themselves. Each chapter focuses upon a different method, problem, or research site, including: - Maximalism and mixed-methods approaches to research - Searching large databases effectively - Pattern recognition and visual searching- New trends in academic communication - Critical reading, use, and citation Trade ReviewMany undergraduates are invested in and knowledgeable about pop culture, material culture, and fashion, and that is where Sikarskie's book can prove invaluable beyond the fashion and textile disciplines: it is rife with excellent sample searches … Summing Up: Essential. All readers. * CHOICE *... an essential guidebook for fashion studies scholars. Engaging and clearly written, this comprehensive book covers everything from blogging to coding. Sikarskie’s mixed-method approach is valuable to students and will refresh the practices of established researchers. * Colleen Hill, curator of costume and accessories, The Museum at FIT *Digital Research Methods ... is a breath of fresh air. Sikarskie delineates the cross-disciplinary nature of digital fashion and textile research in a fun and engaging manner, providing an invaluable resource for students and seasoned scholars alike. * Clare Sauro, Drexel University, USA *Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Acknowledgments 1 Introduction: A New Maximalism Unit I: Searching 2 Text-based Searching Strategies Case Study: In Search of Kate Moss 3 Visual Searching Unit II: Connecting 4 Blogging, Research, and Instagram 5 Critical Reading of Social Media Texts Case Study: Reading the Moschino "Capsule Collection" Unit III: Visualizing 6 Data Visualization 7 Mapping Case Study: Coding Fashion is Spinach Conclusions: Responding to the Critique of Minimalism Post-script: Maximalist Muse: A Conversation with Kristen Bateman Bibliography Glossary Index Join the Conversation on Instagram!

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Book SynopsisThrough ten detailed case studies on groundbreaking brands like Vivienne Westwood, Vera Wang, Levi's, and The Gap Inc., Fashion Brand Stories shows how fashion retailers and designers use storytelling to establish and maintain relationships with their customers.These entertaining case studies explore the evolution of each brand as a cultural entity with its own carefully crafted personality. Aided by interviews with industry professionals, you'll learn how brands start out, grow and encounter success or failure and how to apply those hard-won lessons to your own thoughts on branding. This beautifully illustrated third edition covers the changing role of social media, celebrity endorsements, quality over quantity, and more ethical sourcing, manufacturing, and consumption.Instructor's resources to accompany this edition are available at bloomsbury.pub/fashion-brand-stories-3eTrade ReviewYou don't have to follow fashion to enjoy Fashion Brand Stories ... Reading feels like strolling along a sparkling shopping corridor as Hancock explains how retailers gain prominence, revealing the strategy and mythology behind what we see in the windows. * Broad Street Review *A unique overview of how brands develop, and whether their stories authentically evolve or are cleverly designed. * Dr. Karen Cross, Academic Strategic Lead in the School of Creative and Cultural Business, Robert Gordon University, UK *Fashion Brand Stories is an insightful text for anyone who wishes to understand the importance of design, critical cultural theory, and storytelling as methods of creating fashion brands and a must for creatives and business professionals, who will benefit from its engaging views on consumer brand culture. * Dr. Vicki Karaminas, Professor of Fashion, Massey University, New Zealand *Dr. Hancock gives the reader a book suffused with contemporary (and well-known) brand stories as an engaging introduction to key concepts in fashion and apparel studies. * Dr. Jessica Strübel, Associate Professor, Textiles, Fashion Merchandising and Design, The University of Rhode Island, USA *Table of ContentsPreface 1. Once Upon a Time: Brand/Story Fashion and Popular Culture: Interview with Jessica Strübel What Is Fashion Versus Style? What Is Fashion Branding? Public Relations Branding: Interview with Anne Peirson-Smith Fashion Branding and Storytelling The Goals of this Book Moving Beyond Fashion Brand Stories Discussion Questions Expand Your Knowledge Further Exploration 2. The Past, Present, and Future: A Conceptual Overview Postmodernism, Philosophy, and Theory Putting It All Together: Rhetorical Fashion, Encoding/Decoding, and Hyperreality Postmodern Branding Semantics Hypermodernism and Fashion Forms Meaning and Individual Style Branding and Consumer Theories Context, Consumers, and Meaning Future Consumption of Brands: Interview with Lorynn Divita Cultural Branding Theories Storytelling and Success Brands Lifestyle Merchandising and Emotional Meanings Scouting Future Fashion and Patterns: Interview with Krista Lowther Shifting Views and Consumers Speaking Out Discussion Questions Expand Your Knowledge Further Exploration 3. Democratization of Merchandising: Ralph Lauren History of a Merchandiser The Polo Line Films and Fragrance Redefining the Lifestyle and Going Global Luxury Branding: Interview with David Loranger The Empire Grows Ralph Lauren Home, Out of Africa, and the New York Flagship Store From Exotic Fragrances to the Rugby Store Innovation and Scrutiny Philanthropy and Stardom Discussion Questions Expand Your Knowledge Further Exploration 4. Rebel Brand Style: Vivienne Westwood A Marriage of Music and Fashion Queer and Punk Influence on Brands: Interview with Marvin Taylor Life Changes and Growth God Save the Planet: A Focus on Philanthropy Street Style Success and Subcultural Leadership What Will the Future Hold? Discussion Questions Expand Your Knowledge Further Exploration 5. A Designer of Branded Occasions: Vera Wang Vera Wang: Wedding Expert and Role Model Who Is Vera Wang? Vera Wang’s Branding Story Fashioning Personal Brand Success: Interview with Amanda Buchanan Wang Builds Her Brand Name Vera Wang’s Mass Merchandising The Career Continues Discussion Questions Expand Your Knowledge Further Exploration 6. The Branding of Masstige: The Gap, Inc. Gap History and the Sweat Wall New Fashion Gatekeeping: Individuals of Style and Everyone in Khaki Branding Mass Fashion and Off-Price Retail: Interview with Nancy Mair Into the Twenty-First-Century Groove Labor Controversy and Change Moving Forward Discussion Questions Expand Your Knowledge Further Exploration 7. Celebrity Collaborations and Philanthropy: MAC History of Estée Lauder Estée Lauder Today Branding Sneakers: Interview with Sean Williams Makeup Art Cosmetics: MAC Philanthropic Branding with a Twist: VIVA GLAM Celebrity Endorsement, Collaborations, and Genderless Boundaries Discussion Questions Expand Your Knowledge Further Exploration 8. Retro-Branding: Levi Strauss & Co. History of Levi Strauss & Co. Denim Overalls Become Blue Jeans Street Style Influence: Interview with Brent Luvaas Making Statements: 501 Jeans and Brand/Story Sales, Strategy, and a Return to Heritage Discussion Questions Expand Your Knowledge Further Exploration 9. Branding Affordable Eyecare: Warby Parker The Eyeglasses Market Luxottica Silhouette International and Viva International Marchon and Safilo Charmant, Marcolin, and De Rigo A Branding King of Retail Operations: Interview with Michael J. Edwards Doing Things Differently: Warby Parker Warby Parker Moving Forward with Vision Falling from B Corp Status COVID-19: Being There for Consumers Discussion Questions Expand Your Knowledge Further Exploration 10. Rebranding American Manufacturing: Shinola History of Shinola The Product Line and Education Watches Paper Journals: Edwards Brothers Malloy, Michigan Bicycles: Waterford Precision Cycles, Wisconsin Shinola Jewelry, Leather Goods, and Pet Accessories Sustainable Design and Branding: Interview with Chris Baeza Shinola Controversy “Bougie Crap” and Diversification Discussion Questions Expand Your Knowledge Further Exploration

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Book SynopsisThe history of the fashion industry has been well written as it relates to people who conform to certain physical norms and cultural stereotypes, whereas the inequality in access to the world of fashion has been largely ignored. Despite this lack of coverage, much work has taken place over the centuries to enable people who live with disability to participate in fashionable culture. This book tells that story via perspectives of notable historical figures, events and movements, and continues the discourse with a look at some of the contemporary developments in clothing and fashion.The Intersection of Fashion and Disability takes the long view, from early attempts to conceal unsightly' bodies of royalty and nobility via creative innovation through growing contemporary awareness of inclusive fashion and how future work can be driven by technology and cultural acceptance.Trade ReviewInfused in a historical context of adapted clothing designs, lies a recurrent reminder to each of us with disabilities that we deserve continued designs to assure our unadulterated inclusion in society. Kate’s decades of dedicated work will enable me, and other Occupational Therapy educators, to proliferate the future of dedicated and skilled therapists to join Kate’s efforts to promote a cultural change in the inclusion of all bodies, despite each person’s uniqueness. May the memory of my friend Birdie Minor continue to shine through many more women with disabilities as they advocate for disability rights adorned in clothing that allows them to feel whole. -- Paige Moore, Licensed Occupational Therapist and Adjunct Faculty at James Madison University and Mary Baldwin University, USAMarginalized fashion consumers are finally given voice in Kate Annett-Hitchcock’s hugely important book. This is fashion history as well as fashion present, the most timely analysis of fashion and disability that we all need to read. -- Dr Kate Strasdin, Senior Lecturer, Cultural Studies, Fashion and Textiles Institute, Falmouth University, UKThe Intersection of Fashion and Disability provides great historical background, which I feel many of my students need before starting to design. -- Grace Jun, Assistant Professor of Graphic Design, University of Georgia, USAFinally! This is the book that I've been waiting for … Annett-Hitchcock's prose is itself a pleasure, and the book does a superb job of making accessible a fashion history for those new to the field, alongside original (and I must say fabulous) research and insights. By moving between case studies, historical narrative, and a dedicated analytic timeline, it moderates between history, aesthetics, economics, and sociology. -- Jessica Burstein, Associate Professor of English, University of Washington, USAAn essential text that illuminates an untold history, while crafting a blueprint for Disabled people to be creators, consumers and a collective within the fashion system. * Sinéad Burke, CEO & Founder, Tilting the Lens *Table of ContentsList of Figures Contributors Preface Foreword Acknowledgements Abbreviations Glossary 1. Establishing Significance Introduction 1.1 Purpose of the book: It’s a fashion story! 1.2 Medical and social models of disability 1.3 Framing of disability fashion history Summary 2. Underpinnings: Events Prior to 1800 Introduction 2.1 Setting the stage for the historical discussion 2.2 Pre-eighteenth century 2.3 Impact of the Age of Enlightenment: 1740-1800 Summary Boxed Profiles: Mrs. Morrell and Miss Hawtin 3. Improvisation and Innovation: 1800-1920 Introduction 3.1 The early to mid-nineteenth century Charitable Organizations 3.2 The late nineteenth century: Effects of war 3.3 The early twentieth century: War, therapy & industry Summary Boxed Profile: Lavinia Warren 4. Rehabilitation, independence & finally fashion: 1930s to early 1970s Introduction 4.1 Impact of work, World War Two and rehabilitation: 1925-1950 4.2 Academic and government funded research: 1950-1973 4.3 Independent designers-Research and practice: 1950-1960 4.4 Connecting research, outreach and small business through independence & civil rights movements: 1960-1973 4.5 Other activist efforts and government initiatives Summary Boxed Profile: Frida Kahlo 5. Individual appearance management between two Acts: 1973-1990 Introduction 5.1 Impact of the 1973 Rehabilitation Act 5.2 Centers and workshops Design Without Limits Center for Universal Design 5.3 Other relevant publications 5.4 The beginning role of retail Summary Boxed Profile: Sunae Park Evans, Senior Costume Conservator, Smithsonian Institution 6. Contemporary Design and Technology Introduction 6.1 The Americans with Disabilities Act 6.2 Fashion design developments in context 6.3 Design interviews Alexandra Palmer on Izzy Camelleri of IZAdaptive Lucy Jones of FFORA Grace Jun of OpenStyleLab Justin LeBlanc on Justin LeBlanc Design 6.4 Do we have a disability design process? 6.5 Harnessing technological developments Summary 7. A Story of disabled makers Introduction 7.1 Disabled makers in history 7.2 The legacy of disabled makers Summary 8. Tying it all together Introduction 8.1 Patterns of success 8.2 Tying it all together 8.3 Where we could be heading 8.4 Disability fashion history timeline

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Book SynopsisDeeply erudite but also playful and full of wit. Salman RushdieFashion Sense is designed to explode fashion, and with it, the stigma in philosophy against fashion's superficiality. Fashion appears to be altogether differently occupied, disingenuous and insubstantial, even sophistic in its pretense to peddle surfaces as if they were something deep. But is fashion's apparent beguilement more philosophical than it seems? And is philosophy's longing for exposed depth concealing fashion in its anti-fashion stance? Using primarily ancient Greek texts, peppered with allusions to their echoes across the history of philosophy and contemporary fashion and pop culture, Gwenda-lin Grewal not only examines the rift between fashion and philosophy, but also challenges the claim that fashion is modern. Indeed, fashion's quarrel with philosophy may be at least as ancient as that infamous quarrel between philosophy and poetry alluded to in Plato's Republic. And the quest for fashiTrade ReviewFASHION | SENSE is Gwenda-lin Grewal’s brilliant meditation, deeply erudite but also playful and full of wit, on clothing as disguise, revelation, acquiescence, transformation, identity, and second self, as the "bodies we put on." In Grewal’s hands the “age-old argument” between philosophy and fashion, the things of the mind and the things of the body, is scintillatingly renewed. * Salman Rushdie, Distinguished Writer in Residence, New York University, USA *Fashion | Sense: On Philosophy and Fashion is a brilliant book... The book is extremely original in writing and thinking. Grewal has style in spades, and this style creates (or rather is) her considerable substance. The book thrums with energy and wit, and it was an absolute pleasure to read. It took my breath away. * Fashion Theory *Fashion | Sense: On Philosophy and Fashion by Gwenda-lin Grewal explores how philosophers underestimate fashion's power in their search for the naked truth. Mercifully devoid of academic jargon and pomposity, the book is studded with brilliant and often witty observations on the unexpected parallels between philosophy and fashion. * Valerie Steele, Director and Chief Curator, The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, USA *Gwenda-lin Grewal’s Fashion | Sense should be read more than once, for it moves conceptually, on multiple levels, and stylistically on many others. If you read it for its insights into Ancient Greek philosophy, you will find yourself returning to it for its sharp criticism of contemporary society—mores and looks. On a third time, you may want to reread it just for its prose. * British Journal of Aesthetics *This rich, knowledgeable, variegated book challenges easy assumptions about fashion’s modernity. Grewal juxtaposes contemporary manifestations of fashion with situations and characters from ancient literatures in an expert pursuit of fashion-thinking, where “fashion-thinking” means philosophy’s engagement with dress, but also fashion’s own mode of reflection. * Nickolas Pappas, Professor of Philosophy, The City University of New York Graduate Center, USA *A fascinating book by a great new talent which wholly successfully drags philosophy out the closet. In writing that is at once clear and deep, classically informed and very funny, Grewal makes a wholly convincing case for the kinship of philosophy and fashion. Highly recommended." * Simon Critchley, Hans Jonas Professor, The New School for Social Research, New York *Table of ContentsNote to Reader Preface: The 'Other' Ancient Quarrel 1. Fashion Sense 2. Phantom Selves 3. The Dead 4. The Dandy 5. Divine Tailoring 6. The Beauty of Ugliness 7. The Question of Fashion's Beginning Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisFashion ephemerafrom catalogues and invitations to press releaseshave long been overlooked by the fashion industry and fashion academics. Fashion Remains redresses the balance, putting these objects centre stage and focusing on the wider creative practice of contemporary fashion designers, photographers, graphic designers, make-up artists, and many more. Fashion ephemera are considered not as disposable promotional devices, but as windows into hidden networks of collaboration and value creation in the fashion system.Taking an interdisciplinary approach, Fashion Remains explores the unseen and privately circulated fashion ephemera produced by today's most prominent international fashion designers such as Margiela, Yamamoto, and Raf Simons. Showcasing a unique archive of materials, it focuses on Antwerp's avant-garde fashion scene and reveals the potential of these ephemeral objects to evoke and call into question material and immaterial knowledge about the fashion industryTrade ReviewFashion Remains carries out an unprecedented study, which analyzes material that has been overlooked by researchers in the field of fashion studies ... Marco Pecorari and his book contribute to the development of fashion studies, and it is a great reading recommendation for those researchers looking for new perspectives within their studies on material culture and fashion. The book enables the reader to realize the potential to explore other artefacts, places, and practices of the fashion system beyond clothing, fashion shows, and museums, such as fashion ephemera and the archive. * Journal of Dress History *[A]n excellent book. An engaging read by a researcher with a compelling and at times poetic authorial voice, and a worthy addition to any fashion library both personal and institutional. Pecorari invites us as fashion scholars to triangulate our research with an alternative data set, that we may generate yet more nuanced and compelling analyses of our subjects. Using his examination of ephemera through communication theoretical perspectives to advance a valuable new sub-discipline of fashion research. * Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body and Culture *Table of ContentsAcknowledgments Introduction CHAPTER 1 – AUTHORIAL NETWORKS Matters of Signatures: from Authenticity to Intimacy Authorial Bodies and Stories Authorizing Visible and Invisible Voices Multiple Authors Aesthetic and Disciplinary Dialogues Keeping and Expanding Authorship Blurring Fashion Authorities Authorial Networks CHAPTER 2 – PERFOMANCES OF TIME One Ephemera, Multiple Events Between Disappearance and Permanence The Look Moment Show(ing) Time The Liveness of the Show Show Mediatization Allusive Fragments Performances of Imagination CHAPTER 3 – POETIC TRANSFORMATIONS A Ménage à Trois Haptic Fashion Images Material Animations The Sense of Fabric Point of Touch Paratexts and Touching Concepts Poetics Transformations Conclusions Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisThis book can be read through the Bloomsbury Open Access programme and is available on www.bloomsburycollections.com. It is funded by Knowledge Unlatched.The historiography of the Great War has been significantly renewed in recent years; yet, despite its crucial social, economic, and cultural importance, the role that fashion played in shaping wartime experiences and economies on an international scale between 1914 and 1918 has largely gone unaddressed. Fashion, Society, and the First World War fills this gap by offering a comprehensive analysis of the impact of the war on the ways that the fashion industry functioned in a global wartime economy, as well as on the ways that women and men negotiated this new world.With an international, thematic approach, and illustrated in full color throughout, this volume discusses the reconfiguration of the fashion industry, wartime style and production, and the reframing of selfhood, gender roles, and national identity through Trade ReviewA coherent, fresh and fascinating study by an impressive, international group of researchers … Because of its international base, the high quality of the research manifested by its 19 contributors, and the sensitive structure set in pace by its editors, this book marks another important step in the current positive and exciting development in dress and fashion history publications. * Lou Taylor, University of Brighton, UK *This innovative book reveals how the global war altered not only the business of fashion on an international scale but also had a strong impact on personal dress practices. It splendidly shows how fashion became a powerful symbol of nationalism and played an important role concerning social norms including gender and class relationship. * Adelheid Rasche, Germanisches Nationalmuseum, Germany *A long overdue transnational exploration of the business and beauty of fashion during the Great War, covering diverse aspects of wartime clothing industry, artistry and identity through absorbing scholarship and impactful illustrations. * Lucy Adlington, author of Great War Fashion: Tales from the History Wardrobe and Stitches in Time *Table of ContentsLists of Figures List of Contributors Acknowledgements, Maude Bass-Krueger, Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, and Sophie Kurkdjian Notes on Translation Timeline Introduction, Maude Bass-Krueger and Sophie Kurkdjian I. The Reconfiguration of the International Couture Industry 1: Wartime Marketing of Parisian Haute Couture in the United States, 1914-1917 Mary Lynn Stewart 2: Boué Sœurs, “Compelled by the War” Waleria Dorogova 3: “Gladdening the hearts of warriors:” the relationship between Lucile’s romantic fashions and morale in World War I Georgina Ripley 4: Die Kriegskrinoline - A Feminine Fashion Between Past and Future Birgit Haase 5: Fashion in Belgium during the Great War and the Case of Norine Nele Bernheim II. The Materiality of Wartime Fashion and Textile Industries 6: Dressed to Quill: The Origin and Significance of the Feathered Showgirl in World War I Paris Emily Brayshaw 7: Between Fashion and Folk: Dress Practices in Alsace during World War I Sara Hume 8: The Lace Industry in Belgium and France During the War Marguerite Coppens 9: Industrial and Handmade Clothing Production in the Netherlands, a Neutral Country during First World War Marta Kargól 10: Wartime Fabrics in the Historical Archives of Como Weavers and in the Collections of the Fondazione Antonio Ratti Margherita Rosina III. Problematic Uniforms: Male and Female Experiences and Second-Hand Trade Networks 11: “Breeched, Booted, and Cropped:” a dress historical analysis of the uniform worn by members of Britain’s Women’s Land Army, 1917-1919 Amy de la Haye 12: The French Home Front in 1914-1918: An Investigation of Female Workwear Jérémie Brucker 13: Rushing to Suit Up: French Aviation’s Adjustment to Wartime Uniforms, 1914-1916 Guillaume de Syon 14: The Spoils of War: Use and Transformations of Second-Hand Uniforms during the First World War in France Manuel Charpy IV. Fashion in Print: Questions of National Fashion and Gender 15: The Gentleman Turned “Enemy:” Men’s Fashion in the Hungarian Press, 1914-1918 Zsolt Mészáros 16: The Politics of Fashion: German Fashion (Writings) in Times of War Burcu Dogramaci 17: The Italian Fashion Magazine Margherita: the War, Women, and the Call for a “Moda Italiana,” 1914-1918 Enrica Morini 18: Le Flambeau’s Fashion Discourse during the First World War: Towards a Retrograde Femininity? Nigel Lezama 19: Is Beauty Useless? Fashion, Gender, and British Wartime Society in Punch Magazine, 1915 Andréa Kollnitz Index

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Book SynopsisEdith Snook is Professor of English at the University of New Brunswick, Fredericton, Canada.Trade ReviewA thick, tangled and deliciously idiosyncratic history of hair ... There is plenty to inform and intrigue. * Times Literary Supplement *Individually, Edith Snook’s international team of historians and literary scholars brings fresh new perspectives to nine key themes in renaissance hair. Collectively, the volume powerfully explores the extent to which, from 1450 to 1650, when sumptuary laws policing European fashion were at their most influential, social distinctions overruled personal preference to dictate – and reflect – how people styled and cared for their hair. -- M A Katritzky, Open University, UKA fascinating collection of essays written from a wealth of disciplinary perspectives … This wonderful volume looks at hair as a cultural artifact whose colour, cut or arrangement, modest covering or disheveled disarray communicated a wealth of information about an individual. This is a valuable contribution to Renaissance and early modern history of the body and material history. -- Sara F. Matthews-Grieco, Syracuse University, ItalyTable of ContentsSeries Preface Introduction 1. Religion and Ritualized Belief, Gary K. White 2. Self and Society, Anu Korhonen 3. Fashion and Adornment, Carole Collier Frick 4. Production and Practice, Annemarie Kinzelbach 5. Health and Hygiene, Edith Snook 6. Gender and Sexuality, Mark Albert Johnston 7. Race and Ethnicity, Nicholas Jones 8. Class and Social Status, Jana Mathews 9. Cultural Representations, Lyn Bennett Notes Bibliography Notes on Contributors Index

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Book SynopsisGeraldine Biddle-Perry is Associate Lecturer in Cultural Studies at Central Saint Martins, London, UK, and co-author of Hair: Styling, Culture and Fashion.Trade ReviewA thick, tangled and deliciously idiosyncratic history of hair ... There is plenty to inform and intrigue, partly because the study of hair demands an exhilarating disciplinary range: from the art of cuts and colours, the history of scissors, razors and combs and the sociology of barbershops, to the semiotics of hair pulling and lock tugging, the ethnography of “Afros”, and the sexual politics of boyish bobs. * Times Literary Supplement *[I]n carefully argued, insightful case studies that deploy sophisticated analytical tools, this volume’s contributors document the complex shifts in hair dressing and grooming which have located hair as central to contemporary individualistic self-fashioning and as a key signifier of sexuality and lifestyle politics. Innovative and persuasive, this collection provides an invaluable history of hair for those who want to truly understand its modern significance and powerful cultural status. -- Andrew Stephenson, University of East London, UKTable of ContentsList of Illustrations General Editor’s Preface Introduction: Modern Hair in a Modern Age, Geraldine Biddle-Perry 1. Religion and Ritualized Belief, Yudit Kornberg Greenberg and Hanna Cody 2. Self and Society, Elisha P. Renne (Part 1) and Royce Mahawatte (Part 2) 3. Fashion and Adornment, Alice Beard 4. Production and Practice, Kim Smith 5. Health and Hygiene, Paul R. Deslandes 6. Gender and Sexuality, Chelsea Johnson and Kristen Barber 7. Race and Ethnicity, Shirley Anne Tate 8. Class and Social Status, Geraldine Biddle-Perry 9. Cultural Representations, Nathalie Khan Notes Bibliography Notes on Contributors Index

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Book SynopsisI adored this book and can't recommend it highly enough Cathy HorynBeautifully executed Norma KamaliA visual feast Giles DeaconEntertaining, thought-provoking, and serious. Read it and learn. Colin McDowellClothes from our past shape who we are, and who we will be. Why do we hold on to certain garments and what do they tell us and others about our lives?Mark C. O'Flaherty asks 14 individuals who work with or use clothes in a unique way: how has fashion created something significant in your life? Through fascinating conversations, and photoshoots of their private collections, in New York, London and Milan, he constructs a portrait of each person through their intimate relationships with fashion, featuring The Idiosyncratic Fashionistas, Charlie Casely-Hayford, John Matheson (McQueen Vault), Sandy Powell, Stephen Jones, Carla Sozzani, Winn Austin, Carmen Haid, Susanne Bartsch, Karlo Steel, Karim Rashid, Steven Philip, and Desmond is Amazing.How have these people used faTrade ReviewA beautifully executed book. Rarely does such a high level of talent for photography and writing exist in one person. It exists in Mark C. O'Flaherty. * Norma Kamali *A wondrous insight into some of the most important and singular collections in the world. A visual feast, packed with insightful psychological interpretations. The developing plot of each chapter, studying the relationship between the subject, their chosen pieces, and the human condition is truly fascinating. * Giles Deacon *This isn’t simply a book about fashion collectors, though it is. This is a book about the daring creators of fashion during a magical period in the history of dress. O’Flaherty deftly weaves together the various narratives for an original account. I adored this book and can’t recommend it highly enough. * Cathy Horyn, ‘The Cut’, New York Magazine, USA *This is a very important book for anyone who cares about the strength and creativity of fashion. The “conversations” featured are entertaining, thought-provoking… And serious. Read it and learn. * Colin McDowell *A remarkable and heart-warming book: Mark C. O’Flaherty’s intimate portraits of diverse fashion collectors explores the relationship we have with fashion, expression, memory, and identity. The compendium surfaces big ideas about the cult of the brand, self-creation, and the psychology of collecting. * Harriet Quick *Mark C. O'Flaherty's book weaves us, in a tender way, through the emotional reasoning for holding on to garments from our past as we head into the future. * Suzy Menkes, podcaster and leading fashion authority *Narrative Thread provides unparalleled access to some of the world’s most extraordinary privately-owned collections, revealing the untold stories and hidden meanings behind fashion’s most significant garments. Alongside beautiful imagery, insightful conversations with the collectors offer thought-provoking perspectives on the significance of fashion and its impact on all our lives. * Andrew Groves, Westminster Menswear Archive, UK *Astounding. Reading this inspired me to rethink the story my clothes tell. * Amanda Harlech, from the Foreword *

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Book SynopsisConstricting styles and limited clothing choices can restrict a person with a disability from fully participating in social communities, employment and gatherings that have an unspoken dress code. Design has the power to change this.Fashion, Disability, and Co-design shows how collaborative, inclusive design techniques can produce garments and accessories that increase social inclusion. Grace Jun outlines practical techniques to help designers create their own inclusive collections, with detailed examples from interviews with professionals. 14 illustrated case studies show how engagement with disability communities to co-design clothing and accessories can lead to functional, wearablesolutions for people of all abilities without compromising style.Interviews:- Inclusive Representation in Fashion Narrative & Design Process Christina Mallon- Understanding the Use of Materials Angela Domsitz Jabara- Human Factors and Occupational

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Book SynopsisInside the Westminster Menswear Archive is a unique guide to the role of garment archives as an industry resource for designers to research and examine both historical garments and the work of their peers.With exclusive access to over 120 key garments from the Westminster Menswear Archive, spanning the last 275 years, each piece is brilliantly photographed in close-up detail and annotated with curator commentary, to inspire new generations of designers.Highlights include garments from: A-COLD-WALL*, Ahluwalia, Aitor Throup Studio, Alexander McQueen, Belstaff, Bernhard Willhelm, Burberry, Casely-Hayford, C.P. Company, Carol Christian Poell, Comme des Garçons, Craig Green, Dior Men, Fred Perry, Helmut Lang, Hussein Chalayan, Jean Paul Gaultier, Junya Watanabe, Louis Vuitton, Martine Rose, Meadham Kirchhoff, Nigel Cabourn, Paul Smith, Prada, Stone Island, Umbro, Undercover, Vexed Generation, and Vollebak.

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Book SynopsisThis major volume aims to re-colour the European world of dress, c.1300-1800. New dyes created one of the most important visual experiences of the period, yet their story has been side-lined by a focus on visual experiences shaped by the high arts. Meanwhile, theatrical productions and period films still abound with broad assumptions about the growing dominance of black clothing for elites during the period, while ordinary people are imagined having worn coarse greys and bleached garments. This volume presents clear evidence that even the clothing of the middle classes could be much more expensive than paintings, and that coloured clothing and accessories were ubiquitous across society.Contributors shed new light on the economic, environmental, and cultural dimensions of colour in dress. The range of dyes expanded considerably in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, drawing on Asian and Mediterranean knowledge, new collections of recipes, and the greater diversity

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a huge range and FREE tracked UK delivery on ALL orders.

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Book SynopsisJustine De Young is Associate Professor and Chairperson, History of Art, at the Fashion Institute of Technology, State University of New York (US). She previously taught art and fashion history at Harvard, Wellesley, Lesley, and Northwestern universities in the US. She is editor of Fashion in European Art (Bloomsbury, 2019) and the founding editor of the Fashion History Timeline website.

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Book SynopsisBrenda Polan is a fashion writer, editor, lecturer and academic. She was Fashion Editor and Women's Page Editor of The Guardian and has written for all Britain's major newspapers and many magazines. She was formerly Programme Director (Media) at London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London. Roger Tredre is Course Leader for the MA in Fashion Communication, at Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London. Prior to his academic career, he worked in newspaper journalism and was the first Editor-in-Chief of WGSN, the online fashion trends and research business. He has consulted widely for many leading fashion brands.

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a huge range and FREE tracked UK delivery on ALL orders.

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Book SynopsisVictorian Fashions for Menexplores British the styles and clothingthroughout the long reign of QueenVictoria from the late 1830s to the firstyears of the 20th century. Within area superb overview of the suits, coats, hats,hair styles, accoutrements, shoes and bootsthat typified the prevailing styles of men''s attirefor each decade. From those who had enoughmoney to have day and evening wearand clothes for sporting and outdooractivities to those with limited incomeand wardrobes or labouring folk withlittle more than the clothes they stoodup in.All decades are illustrated withoriginal photographs, adverts andcontemporary magazine illustrationsfrom the authors' own remarkablecollections and are accompanied bya knowledgeable and informativetext that describes the fashions, theirsocial history context and influencesreflected in the clothes of the time.Laid out in clear and easy to followchronological order the key featuresof the styles for each decade will helpfamily historians to datefamil

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Book SynopsisThe world of fashion is supposed to be glamorous . . . isn't it? A hilarious, authentic and big-hearted debut set behind the scenes of the glamorous and chaotic fashion industry, with its eccentric characters, towering expectations - and quite frankly ridiculous requests.Trade ReviewNatalie Lewis's debut novel is an addictive, glorious romp through the world of fashion PR. Reading Don't Believe the Hype feels like spending time with your funniest, most gossipy, best dressed friend * Clare Pooley *READ IMMEDIATELY * Claudia Winkleman *This book lifts the lid on the mad world of fashion * Anya Hindmarch *This book is hilarious. The season's must have * Minnie Driver *A brilliant fictionalised account of the industry . . . Perfect for fans of The Devil Wears Prada * MyWeekly *A romp of a novel that's just so much fun, I absolutely adored this behind-the-scenes glimpse into the messy world of fashion PR * Laura Jane Williams *A fictional behind-the-scenes look at the absurdities of the fashion industry, written by a PR with more than 30 years' experience * The Bookseller *A hilarious dive into the fascinating world of fashion PR, with copious amounts of glamour, demanding clients, and lots of twists. I was swept up in Frankie's world and didn't want it to end! * Heather Darwent *Fans of The Devil Wears Prada will love this * Prima *I literally gobbled this book up in one sitting. Great fun * Bishop's Stortford Independent *A fun glimpse into the fabulous word of fashion * MyWeekly *This brilliant book by Natalie Lewis, who worked for 30 years in the industry, offers an unrivalled behind-the-scenes look at fashion PR * Hello! *Fans of THE DEVIL WEARS PRADA and CALL MY AGENT will love this one! * Shemazing *The most exciting novel published in 2023 -- Ed Vaizey * Times Radio *So very charming . . . A perfect early summer read. It is a journey not only of the ups and downs of fashion PR, but of self-discovery, of growing up and finding paths you never could have expected, developing and keeping an open mind at every sequinned and studded obstacle * The National, Scotland *

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Book SynopsisThis book provides an overview of how the industry operates and describes the variety of jobs available. The responsibilities within design, technical and media roles are explained, supported by case studies of people currently working in companies from designer to high street level. Advice is provided on how to plan a career in each area.Table of ContentsPreface. 1 Introduction. 2 Textile Design. 3 Fashion Forecasting and Illustration. 4 Fashion Design. 5 Pattern Cutting. 6 Fabric Technology. 7 Garment Technology. 8 Sales and Marketing in the Fashion and Textiles Industry. 9 Fashion Buying. 10 Fashion Merchandising. 11 Retail Management. 12 Visual Merchandising. 13 Fashion PR. 14 Fashion Journalism. 15 Fashion Styling. 16 Fashion and Textiles Education. 17 Working for Yourself. 18 Finding Jobs in Fashion and Textiles. . Index

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Book Synopsis* This will be the first British textbook on the subject. * International approach, reflecting the global market for fashion. * The clothing industry is vast, currently worth GBP35 billion a year in the UK and growing.Trade Reviewit s a highly recommended read if you too want to work in fashion or even if you don t it gives great insight into the fashion through business eyes. (March 2013, Urbanoblog.com)Table of ContentsAcknowledgments xi Chapter 1 Introduction 1 Description of the book 2 Structure of the book 3 Chapter 2 Marketing Strategy 7 Introduction 8 Promotional strategy 8 Where are we now? 10 Where do we want to be? 10 How do we get there? 12 Models of advertising 13 Examples of promotional campaigns 13 Summary 15 References 16 Activities 16 Chapter 3 Tools and Media Channels 17 Introduction 18 Advertising 18 Public relations 26 Direct marketing 28 Personal selling 29 The retail environment 31 Summary 33 References 33 Activities 33 Chapter 4 The Power of Magazines 35 Introduction 36 A repertoire of magazines 36 The magazine–reader relationship – my magazine is my mate? 41 Teenage magazines 45 Advertising costs, circulation and context 45 Monthly and weekly magazines 50 Summary 52 References 52 Activities 53 Chapter 5 The Role of Public Relations 54 Introduction 55 Who carries out the PR function? 55 The costs of PR 57 The role of the journalist in PR 57 Credibility 58 How gender affects PR 61 Working out the value of product placement 61 Types of PR function 62 The role of the PR function 63 Providing evidence of effectiveness 68 Crisis management 69 Summary 71 References 71 Activities 71 Discussion questions 72 Chapter 6 Celebrity 73 Defining celebrity 74 Celebrity management 74 Celebrity endorsement 75 Theoretical background 77 Celebrity collaborations 79 Celebrity ranges 80 Celebrity saturation 80 Celebrity slip-ups 80 Celebrity and charities 81 The celebrity lifecycle 83 Measuring the effectiveness of celebrity endorsement 86 The major benefits of celebrity endorsements 87 The death of celebrity culture? 87 Summary 88 References 88 Activities 88 Chapter 7 The Retail Fashion Store Environment 89 Introduction 90 Consumer behaviour reviewed 90 Types of store 91 Store location 92 Approach and avoidance 94 Visual merchandising – the shop window 95 From visual merchandising to visual marketing 97 Hero pieces 98 Store layout and design 98 Stimulation of the senses 102 Store personnel 104 The virtual store environment 106 The payment experience 107 Auditing the retail environment – the mystery shopper 107 Future directions 108 Summary 109 References 109 Activities 109 Chapter 8 Trade Marketing Communications 111 Introduction 112 Press releases 113 Trade journals 117 Fashion shows 118 Fashion weeks 118 Showrooms 119 Exhibitions and trade shows 121 Trade marketing stands 125 Events 130 Websites 130 E-mail and social media 131 Supporting the trade 131 Summary 131 Activities 132 Chapter 9 International Fashion Marke ting Communications 133 Introduction 134 The international consumer 134 Operating outside the domestic market 134 Emerging markets 137 Developing versus developed markets 138 International regulatory frameworks 140 Standardisation and adaptation in international fashion marketing communications 141 General considerations for international marketing 143 Summary 145 References 146 Activities 146 Chapter 10 Regulatory Frameworks 150 Introduction 151 The role and remit of self-regulation 152 Hot topics in the fashion industry 152 The process and progress of a complaint 154 Communicating the results of adjudications 155 International considerations 156 Where the problems seem to lie 156 Summary 157 References 157 Activities 157 Chapter 11 Assessing the Effectiveness of Fashion Marketing Communications 158 Introduction 159 Models of advertising 160 Measuring effectiveness against campaign objectives 161 Assessing the effectiveness of traditional media 162 Qualitative research 165 Other methods of determining effectiveness 168 Costs of research 172 Summary 175 References 175 Activities 175 Chapter 12 Future Directions in Fashion Marketing Communications 181 Introduction 182 The changing landscape of media communications 182 Technological advances 182 Rich media and infotainment 183 Blogs 184 Career opportunities 185 Work experience 186 Top tips 191 The interview process 192 References 193 Activities 193 Index 195

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Book SynopsisPam Inder explores the evolution of the woman's fashion over the long nineteenth century - from the late Georgians to the Edwardians.

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Book Synopsis''Delicious and utterly absorbing... This is a book to be relished and savoured. I can''t recommend it enough'' GILL THOMPSON, author of THE CHILD ON PLATFORM ONE''Historical fiction at its finest. Antoinette Chanel will capture your heart'' ANN WEISGARBER, author of THE PERSONAL HISTORY OF RACHEL DUPREE ---The unforgettable story of the sisters who changed fashion forever. For readers who fell in love with THE PARIS WIFE and THE AGE OF LIGHT.Gabrielle and Antoinette know they''re destined for something better. Abandoned to a convent orphanage, they are raised for simple lives. But at night they dream of a glittering future, and the Chanel sisters are determined to prove themselves worthy. Their journey propels Coco and Ninette out of poverty to performing in bohemian cafés and stylish music halls, and soon on to Paris and a small hat shop on the rue Cambon, where a boutique business takes hold and expands to the gl

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Book SynopsisClothes are inherently geographical objects, yet few of us consider the social and economic significance of their journey from design to production to consumption. The Geographies of Fashion is the first in-depth study of fashion economies from a geographer's perspective, exploring the complex relationship between our attachment to the clothes we own, love and desire, and their geographic and economic ties. How far does a garment physically travel from factory to wardrobe? How do clothes come to have social or economic value and who or what creates it? What are the geographies of fashion and how do they interact with one another? This ground-breaking book powerfully reframes fashion spaces, from the body to the city, digital or virtual space to material production, positioning fashion at the centre of contemporary culture and collective identities.Combining contemporary theoretical approaches with a cutting-edge analysis of international fashion brands and institutions includinTrade ReviewIn Louise Crewe’s extraordinary new book, fashion becomes the privileged lens through which to explore how we inhabit, interpret and understand the modern world’s geography. The Geographies of Fashion opens up a broader unexplored spatial landscape to question and investigate notions of habitation, intimacy, memory and identity. -- Francesca Murialdo, Middlesex University, UK.A much-needed analysis from a highly respected author, which explores the spatial dimension of fashion through carefully chosen case studies and examples. Both clear and insightful, it will be key reading for students interested in fashion, consumption, and cultural geography. -- Joanne Entwistle, Kings College London, UK.A vital intervention in fashion scholarship from a cultural geographer whose writing here - as always - both ranges across and carefully brings together scholarship from different disciplines. -- Pamela Church Gibson, London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London, UK.Combining contemporary theoretical approaches with a cutting-edge analysis of international fashion brands and institutions including Maison Martin Margiela, Zara, Louis Vuitton, ASOS and Savile Row,The Geographies of Fashion is essential reading for students of fashion, geography and related disciplines including sociology, architecture and design. * ADDRESS: Journal for Fashion Criticism *Table of Contents1. Figuring out the Geographies of Fashion 2. Fashioning the Global City: Architecture and the Building of Fashion Space 3. Fast Fashion, Global Spaces and Bio-commodification 4. Slow Fashion and Investment Consumption 5. Luxury Fashion: Flagships, Singularity and the Hidden Art of Value Creation 6. Possessed: Evocative Objects, Materiality and Meaning 7. Soft:Ware:Wear:Where: Convergence, Disintermediation and Virtual Fashion Worlds Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisThe Fundamentals of Digital Fashion Marketing introduces and explores contemporary digital marketing practices within the fashion industry. Clare Harris clearly explains key digital marketing strategies and examines and illustrates their role in fashion through exciting and memorable industry examples. Marketing practices covered include online marketing, social media, video, mobile technologies, in-store technologies, augmented reality and digital spaces.The text features interviews and case studies from some of fashion''s biggest brands and most cutting-edge marketing companies, while also promoting active learning through engaging activities and exercises. This all combines to create a book that will inform, stimulate and inspire the next generation of creative marketers.Trade ReviewThis is a lively and visually stimulating book that covers all the key factors associated with digital fashion business. Overall, the content provides an accessible introduction to the digital fashion marketing subject and individually, the various chapters provide useful starting points for more in-depth research on key topics such as fashion blogging, mobile devices, analytics and fashion video. [This book] definitely fits the needs of our course and also aligns with the overall strategic direction of our department, which is to continue to be at the forefront of all things digital across marketing, communication, media, PR, events and fashion management. As we are not yet using a title that focuses specifically on Digital Fashion Marketing, the project has a real strength and relevance for our teaching. -- Karen Cross, Subject leader for Marketing, Fashion and Retail * Robert Gordon University, Aberdeen, Scotland *I would use this book in two of my courses: Luxury Marketing (at the undergraduate level) and Entrepreneurship in the Business of Art (also undergraduate level). Marketing fashion and digital marketing is an important question and it is particularly so as it relates to luxury fashion brands. In Entrepreneurship this title will be useful because other types of products can be marketed digitally based on the fashion model. In other words, my students don’t necessarily focus on fashion (some of them do) but basically everyone would benefit from an in-depth view of how digital fashion marketing works (and why it is successful). The proposed book offers both a history of the digital space as it relates to the fashion industry AND a guide on how to profitably utilize the digital space (in all its iterations) to advance/promote/and sell fashion merchandize. In fact, this is the book’s strength as well. It is not only history, it is not just theory, it is a combination of history, theory, and practical advice derived from case studies and interviews with fashion professionals. -- Thomai Serdari, New York UniversityAn approachable, at-a-glance look at digital marketing for fashion. At the level it is pitched, it is a good offering... this sort of subject matter is pretty core to all fashion promotion/marketing courses. The author is obviously experienced in this area and seemingly a good person to write the book. -- Jon Cope, Senior Lecturer, University for the Creative Arts/Westminster University, LondonAs a focused fashion text for the digital age, this book is a great addition to the field and covers a variety of topics on the vastness of technology impacting fashion marketing. -- Tasha Lewis, Assistant Professor in Fashion Design Management, Cornell University, USAThis is a great introductory workbook for digital fashion marketing. It is written by a fashion expert in a simple jargon-free way that helps students understand the changing role of digital developments in the fashion system. -- Michelle Tellam Lawrence, Senior Lecturer, Fashion Marketing, Falmouth University, UKAn accessible how-to guide for digital fashion marketers that introduces fashion students to the latest industry practices using contemporary case studies in a key curriculum area. -- Natascha Radclyffe-Thomas, Course Leader BA Fashion Marketing, Fashion Business School, London College of Fashion, UKTable of ContentsIntroduction 1. Fashion Marketing and Digital Technologies 2. Fashion and Online Marketing 3. Social Media and Fashion Marketing 4. Fashion and Film 5. Fashion and Mobile Media 6. Digital Spaces and Innovations Bibliography Further Reading Index Picture Credits Acknowledgements

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Book SynopsisWhether it's a military inspired trench coat or a Savile Row tailored suit, menswear design increasingly demandsoriginality, innovation and above all, choice. Menswear, 2nd edition explores the evolution of menswear styles,from the origins of tailoring right through to modern sportswear showing how historical and social influencescontinue to endure and influence the menswear collections of today.Interviews offer insight from a range of practitioners, including designer Lou Dalton, fashion entrepreneurAlan Maleh and tailor Ray Stowers. There's also practical advice on research for design innovation, street style,trends and forecasting and collection development. With a wealth of stunning new images and contemporaryexamples, new to this edition are end-of-chapter exercises to encourage design work, such as Designfor Sportswear Fabrication and Tailoring for Menswear. Featured topicsHistorical Research for Design InnovationCounterculture DressingDesign ProcessStreet StyleTreTrade ReviewThis is a great book, and it's a real textbook that doesn't have irrelevant chapters on grooming and styling - it's all about garment design and nothing else, which is great! It's a book for someone who really wants to learn about how to design, rather than someone who just likes looking at fashion. * Christopher New, Senior Lecturer in Menswear, Central Saint Martins School of Art and Design, London, UK *This book is unique in its presentation with the brief summary of historical knowledge and the coverage of the historical and social evolution of menswear and how it influenced women’s wear. I can’t think of any other books that compete with this book. In all design courses, I would recommend this book as a reference. * Injoo Kim, University of Cincinnati, USA *A particular strength of this book is the coverage of the sumptuary laws. I love that! This is something that is not widely understood. I also like the coverage of military uniforms and the section on Menswear’s Influence on Women’s Fashion. I think it is a fantastic idea to put a section on undergarments. No one does that. I think this book would be a great book for my class. I would adopt this book and I would make it required. This is a book that covers many aspects of men’s clothing and is a 'go-to' for style questions. * Rhonda Gorman, Texas Women’s University, USA *The new edition would be included in the required reading list for all students on the menswear and design courses. The book may be included in the recommended reading list for media type courses. * John Lau, Programme Director, Fashion Design and Technology, London College of Fashion, School of Design and Technology, UK *This volume would be a good starting point for doing research on menswear, and faculty may find the lists of firms useful in organizing study tours. Libraries supporting any kind of fashion design or clothing construction curriculum should consider purchasing this work. * N.A. Mackey, Missouri State University, Choice, December 2011 *Extremely good resource. Provides a very good insight into menswear. Most students opt for womenswear and this is encouraging an understanding of the wider options in fashion. * Cheryl Smith, Curriculum Leader and Lecturer in Art and Design, Newcastle-Under-Lyme College, UK *Excellent, great layout, informative and inspiring. * Angela Loftus, BA (Hons) Fashion Course Tutor, Bradford College, UK *Table of ContentsIntroduction 1. Menswear Through the Ages Social and Historical Contexts; Sumptuary Laws; Function and Status; Origins of Tailoring; Menswear’s Influence on Womenswear; Counter Culture; Exercise: Historical Research for Design Innovation; Interview: Dashing Tweeds 2. Design Research and Inspiration Details; Vintage; Uniforms; Workwear; Street Style; Trends and Forecasting; London Collection Men; Exercise; Interview: Matthew Zorpas, The Gentleman Blogger 3. Tailoring Traditions Tailoring; The Suit; The Sartoralists; British Tailoring; Italian Tailoring; American Tailoring; Shirts; Neck Ties; Exercise: Tailoring for Menswear; Interview: Stowers Bespoke 4. Sportswear, Knit and Print A Brief History of Sportswear; American Influence; Undergarments; Denim; Knit for Menswear; Print for Menswear Exercise: Design for Sportswear Fabrication; Interview: Alan Maleh, Man of the World Magazine 5. Design Development for Menswear Working with Sketchbooks; Fabric Research; Working with Colour; Trimmings; Toiles/Muslins; Collection Development; First Samples; Exercise: Design to Realisation; Interview: Lou Dalton 6. Menswear Presentations Drawing Men; CAD for Menswear; Menswear Illustration; Presentation Formats; Social Media; Exercise: Menswear Portfolio; Interview: Seung Won Hong Conclusion Bibliography Further resources Index Acknowledgements and picture credits

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Book SynopsisFully revised and updated, this new second edition of Knitwear provides an invaluable introduction to the use of knitwear in fashion design. The book delves into the characteristics and behavior of many varieties of yarn and fiber, from traditional to contemporary, providing easy-to-follow diagrams, practical examples, and rich illustrations throughout.Knitwear provides an insider''s perspective into the knitwear industry and offers vital need-to-know information to readers on various career pathways, while highlighting contemporary machinery and tools available to knitwear designers today, demonstrating how to create knitting patterns, and laying out the basic techniques used on domestic machines. Interviews with international designers, operating at different levels within the industry, provide further insight into the business of knitwear, and how to get a good head-start into the industry. A must-have handbook for the knitwear designer, Knitwear is a beautiful Trade ReviewEach chapter ends with relevant interviews with top knitwear designers and graduates ... throughout it is well illustrated with up-to-date runway designs, graduate collections, designer swatch samples and sketchbook work. If you want to understand the professional approach, are open minded and curious about different aspects of knit and want to explore and understand the process of design to inspire you to create contemporary knitted garments, then this is a comprehensive read. * The Journal for Weavers, Spinners & Dyers *Table of Contents1. Approach to knit Reinventing traditional knitting Yarns and fibres Construction of knit Developments in design and technology Industry interview. Freddie Robins, Senior Tutor, Knitted Textiles, the Royal College of Art 2. Creative development The brief Research Industry interview: Shelley Fox, Director of MFA Fashion Design and Society, The New School Parsons Design development Colour Sculptural form Presentation and evaluation 3. Construction through pattern and texture The tension swatch Basic techniques Lace Surface texture Industry interview. Sophie Steller, Design Director Patterned knits 4. Construction through shape Partial knitting. three-dimensional effects Creating flared shapes Increasing and decreasing Industry interview. Katherine Mavridis: Knitwear Designer Draping and shaping Creating a knitting pattern 5. Details and trims Collars and neckbands Industry interview. Hannah Jenkinson, Knitwear Designer Buttonholes and fastenings Hand-finishing techniques Embellishment 6. Menswear Historical contexts Androgynous contexts Industry interview: Cozette McCreery Designer case study: Pa Byrne Designer case study: Ella Nisbett Designer case study: Ben McKernan Designer case study: Latasha Hammond Designer case study: Matilda Draper Designer case study: Kendall Baker Designer case study: Carlo Volpi

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