Art & Photography Books

Book SynopsisEmphasizing the understanding of images and their influences on how they affect our attitudes, beliefs, and actions, this fully updated sixth edition offers consequential ways of looking at images from the perspectives of photographers, critics, theoreticians, historians, curators, and editors. It invites informed conversations about meanings and implications of images, providing multiple and sometimes conflicting answers to questions such as: What are photographs? Should they be called art? Are they ethical? What are their implications for self, society, and the world? From showing how critics verbalize what they see in images and how they persuade us to see similarly, to dealing with what different photographs might mean, the book posits that some interpretations are better than others and explains how to deliberate among competing interpretations. It looks at how the worth of photographs is judged aesthetically and socially, offering samples and practical consideratioTable of ContentsPreface 1. About Art Criticism ; 2. Photography Theory: Is It Art? Is It True? Is It Moral? ; 3. Describing Photographs: What Do I See? ; 4. Interpreting Photographs: What Does It Mean? ; 5. Types of Photographs ; 6. Photographs and Contexts ; 7. Judging Photographs: Is It Good? ; 8. Writing and Talking About Photographs ; Bibliography

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Book SynopsisCostume is an active agent for performance-making; it is a material object that embodies ideas shaped through collaborative creative work. A new focus in recent years on research in the area of costume has connected this practice in vital and new ways with theories of the body and embodiment, design practices, artistic and other forms of collaboration. Costume, like fashion and dress, is now viewed as an area of dynamic social significance and not simply as passive reflector of a pre-conceived social state or practice. This book offers new approaches to the study of costume, as well as fresh insights into the better-understood frames of historical, theoretical, practice-based and archival research into costume for performance. This anthology draws on the experience of a global group of established researchers as well as emerging voices. Below is a list of just some of the things it achieves:1. Introduces diverse perspectives, innovative new research methods and approaches for researcTrade ReviewThe ambition and reach of this collection is superb and timely. For those of us working in the area of design, education and practice, this is the book we have been waiting for. [...] Performance Costume contains diverse, yet complementary, perspectives offering a rich and textured resource and is the most significant contribution to the expanded field of costume studies to date. * Studies in Costume & Performance *Performance Costume does an impressive job at covering many areas in the complex world of costume design ... In spite of its expansive scope, this compilation can serve as a useful overview for aspiring costume designers seeking a deeper appreciation for the craft and any reader interested in academic costume theory and research. * Journal of Dress History *A truly pioneering exploration and discovery of new fields of costume study, Performance Costume is the first of its kind. It broadens costume study from within the theatre to consider the design process and its practices and, significantly, aspects of wearing and social significance, looking at TV, cinema, schools, hospitals and the street, alongside theatre. Terrifically stimulating and important ... * Christopher Baugh, University of Leeds, UK *An invaluable resource that is authoritative, international in scope, timely, and riveting. It is unique in its breadth of material, methodologies, and combination of contributions by academic and theatre practitioners in articles and 'snapshots'. * Patricia Lennox, New York University, USA *Table of ContentsList of Figures Notes on Contributors Foreword - Maija Pekkanen (Costume Designer, Finland) Foreword - Simona Rybáková (Costume Designer, Czech Republic) Acknowledgements Introduction: Activating Costume: A New Approach to Costume for Performance - Sofia Pantouvaki (Aalto University, Finland) and Peter McNeil (University of Technology Sydney, Australia) Section 1: Interpreting and Curating Costume 1.1 Real or Virtual?: Studying Historical Costume Drawings and Sketches - Margaret Mitchell (University of the Incarnate Word in San Antonio, Texas, USA) 1.2 Cooking: Studying Film Costume Design - Drake Stutesman (Barrymore Film Center, Fort Lee, USA) 1.3 Displaying Stage Costumes: Exhibitions at the National Centre for Stage Costume, France - Delphine Pinasa (Centre National de Costume de Scène, France) Snapshots 1.4. Cross Cultural Costume Research: Beijing Opera Costumes - Alexandra B. Bonds (University of Oregon, USA) 1.5. Reading Maltese Carnival Costumes - Vicki Ann Cremona (University of Malta) 1.6. Curating Costume – Reflection - Aoife Monks (Queen Mary, University of London, UK) Section 2: Personalities in Costume 2.1. Costume Centre Stage: Re-Membering Ellen Terry (1847-1928) - Veronica Isaac (university lecturer and freelance consultant, UK) 2.2. ‘On and Off the Stage’: Costume, Dress, and Locating the Actor-Manager’s Identity, 1870-1900 - Helen Margaret Walter (Plymouth University and the University for the Creative Arts, Epsom, UK) 2.3. Extravagance, Expense and Notoriety: Gaby Deslys’ French Costumes in America, 1911-14 - Emily Brayshaw (University of Technology Sydney (UTS), Australia) Snapshots 2.4. A Foreign Affair On and Off Screen - Christina M. Johnson (FIDM Museum at the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising, Los Angeles, USA) 2.5. Recording Costume Design in the Theatre and Performance Collections at the V&A: Vivien Leigh and Oliver Messel - Keith Lodwick (Victoria and Albert Museum, UK) Section 3: Costume Voices, Costume Histories 3.1. The First Premiere and Other Stories: Towards a History of the Costume Design Profession in Finland - Joanna Weckman (independent post-doctoral costume researcher, exhibition curator, lecturer and costume designer, Finland) 3.2. Spinning Yarns: Locating, Learning and Listening in the Social World of Popular Hindi Film Costume Production - Clare M. Wilkinson (Washington State University, USA) Snapshots 3.3. Hollywood Costume: A Journey to Curation - Deborah Nadoolman Landis (UCLA David C. Copley Center for Costume Design, USA) 3.4. ‘The Getting of Wisdom’: Learning from Anna Senior - Jennifer Gall (National Film and Sound Archive of Australia) 3.5. Design for TV: Costume and Contemporary Clothing - Chrisi Karvonides-Dushenko (costume designer in theatre, film and television, USA) Section 4: Costume and the Body 4.1. The Body as the Matter of Costume: a Phenomenological Practice - Donatella Barbieri (London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London, UK) 4.2. The Body as Site: Interdisciplinary Approaches to Dress in/as Performance - Jessica Bugg (London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London, UK) 4.3. ‘Aware Wearing’ - a Somatic Costume Design Methodology for Performance - Sally E. Dean (interdisciplinary choreographer, performer, teacher and somatic practitioner, Europe, Asia and USA) Snapshots 4.4. Costuming the Foot: a Designer/Performer’s Personal Artistic Methods - Alexandra Murray-Leslie (artist, researcher, performer and co-founder of the international art collective Chicks on Speed, Australia) 4.5. Costume and the Modernist Body: Fashioning August Strindberg - Viveka Kjellmer (University of Gothenburg, Sweden) Section 5: Costume and its Collaborative Work 5.1. Building Costumes, Building Language in the Costume Workshop - Madeline Taylor (Queensland University of Technology and University of Melbourne, Australia) 5.2. Fitting Threads: Embodied Conversations in the Costume Design Process - Suzanne Osmond (National Institute of Dramatic Art in Sydney, Australia) Snapshots 5.3. Haptic Descriptions – Costume Design by Gillian Gallow and April Viczko - Natalie Rewa (Queen’s University, Canada) 5.4. The Costume Designer´s ‘Golden List’ of Competence - Christina Lindgren (Oslo National Academy of the Arts (KHiO), Norway) Section 6: Costume and Social Impact 6.1. Exploring Rossini’s Berta: Young Audiences and the Agency of Opera Costume - Sofia Pantouvaki (Aalto University, Finland) 6.2. Designing Hospital Clown Costumes: Psychological and Social Benefits for Finnish Children’s Healthcare - Merja Väisänen (Aalto University, Finland) 6.3. Costume of Conflict - Mateja Fajt (independent costume designer and researcher, Slovenia) Snapshots 6.4. From Effect to Affect: the Costumed Body and the Autistic Child - Melissa Trimingham (University of Kent, UK) 6.5. ‘Designing Tsunami’: Costume Evolution from Documentary to Surrealist - Michiko Kitayama Skinner (University of Miami, USA) 6.6. The Collaborative Process of Costume Creation: Travesties in São Paulo - Fausto Viana (São Paulo University (USP), Brazil)

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Book SynopsisWith over 200 color illustrations, Byzantine Silk on the Silk Roads examines in detail the eclectic iconography of the Byzantine period and its impact on design and creativity today. Through an examination of the extraordinary variety of designs in these captivating silks, an international team of experts reveal that Byzantine culture was ever-moving and open to diverse influences across the length of the Silk Road. Commentaries from curators at key collections including the Museum of Arts, Boston, the Smithsonian (Cooper Hewitt), the V&A and the Vatican reveal the spread of silk embroidery and designs from East to West, and from West to East, from China to Rome, and from Constantinople to Korea. Drawing on exclusive imagery from worldwide collections within museums, churches and archives as case studies, their analysis of these unique woven silks explores the relationship between color and power, material culture and status, and offers broader insight into Byzantine culture, Trade ReviewTextile enthusiasts looking for a deeper dive into the specific history of Byzantine silk will appreciate Byzantine Silk on the Silk Roads ... The volume includes gorgeous and helpful color illustrations throughout, mainly photographs of silk textiles but also diagrams of the weaving process and images of Byzantine art to enhance the reader’s understanding ... [An] encyclopedic reference volume for scholars who have serious interest in silk textiles. * Dress: The Journal of the Costume Society of America *A wide-ranging exploration of the borderless terrains traversed by the alluring patterns and complex looms that created the most treasured cloths in the Medieval period and continue to inspire today. * Mary Schoeser, V&A, The Textile Society and the School of Textiles, UK *As interesting to read as it is to look at. ... This sumptuous book is richly illustrated and almost as carefully crafted as the Byzantine silk of its title. * Newtown Review of Books *A must-read for scholars and students of textile design … Thoroughly researched and beautifully illustrated. * Steeve Buckridge, Grand Valley State University, USA *A detailed, comprehensive and lavishly illustrated study of Byzantine Silk, offering a genuinely transcultural perspective on the manufacture and dissemination of these key textiles. * Craig Benjamin, Grand Valley State University, USA *Table of ContentsList of Illustrations: Ryoko Yamanaka Kondo List of Contributors: Sarah E. Braddock Clarke Preface: Sarah E. Braddock Clarke Introduction: Ryoko Yamanaka Kondo Acknowledgements: Ryoko Yamanaka Konda and Sarah E. Braddock Clarke List of Abbreviations: Sarah E. Braddock Clarke Glossary: Sarah E. Braddock Clarke General Maps - Maps of East to West Silk Trade Routes: Ryoko Yamanaka Kondo 1: Silk Along the Silk Roads: Diversity & Eclecticism, Sarah E. Braddock Clarke 2: Ancient Chinese Silk Textiles: Focusing on Warp-faced Silks, Sae Ogasawara 3: A Study of Sassanian Brocade, Ryoko Yamanaka Kondo 4: Byzantine Brocades: A Contribution to Art History, Dr Tomoyuki Masuda 5: The Spread of Byzantine Silk Towards the Jacquard Loom, Ryoko Yamanaka Kondo 6: Four Categories of Ancient and Medieval Classical Figured Textiles, Kazuko Yokohari 7: Islamic Textiles, Louise W. Mackie 8: On Medieval Lampas: Textiles in the Iberian Peninsula from the Al-Andalus Period, Silvia Saladrigas Cheng 9: Byzantine Court Dress, Ryoko Yamanaka Kondo 10: Collections of Museums, Cathedrals and Churches, Ryoko Yamanaka Kondo with with Dominique Bénazeth, Toko Hirayama, Dr Rei Ito, Anne Hedeager Krag, Esclarmonde Monteil, Elena Ota, Alexandra Van Puyvelde, Kimberly Randall, Yoko Tanaka and Monica Vroon 11: Pattern and Colour in the Byzantine Empire, Ryoko Yamanka Kondo 12: The Spread of Silk to Japan, Ryoko Yamanka Kondo 13: Warp-faced Brocade in Japan, Shizuo Takata 14: Ancient Textiles Preserved in Japan, Reborn, Kiyoshi Tatsumura 15: Chronological Charts of Civilizations & Textiles, Ryoko Yamanaka Kondo Bibliography: Sarah E. Braddock Clarke Image Credits: Ryoko Yamanaka Kondo Index: Sarah E. Braddock Clarke

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Book SynopsisWith The Fashion Design Toolkit you'll learn how tried-and-tested techniques like gathers, pleats, tucks, and twists can help you adapt patterns and create your own original garment designs. Tracy Jennings walks you through 18 patterning tactics to inspire fresh ideas, demonstrating how embracing pattern drafting skills can lead to innovative and effective collections. Each technique is illustrated in a variety of contexts, showing how and why it has been used by other designers, so you can use the history of each tool as inspiration for your original collections. Ethical practice is woven throughout the book, with tips on how to implement techniques in an environmentally sustainable way. The 18 essential techniques are divided into 5 categories: Establishing Fit and Flare: Darts, Slash & Spread, Seaming, Insets Channeling Fullness: Gathers, Ruffles, Pleats, Tucks Fashioning the Fluid and Unstructured: Arcs, Flounces, Drapes, Twists Engineering Fabric anTable of ContentsIntroduction 1. Darts 2. Slash and Spread 3. Seaming 4. Insets 5. Textile Designs 6. Gathers 7. Ruffles 8. Pleats 9. Tucks 10. Arcs 11. Flounces 12. Drapes 13. Twists 14. Contouring 15. Reduction 16. Adaptations 17. Structure 18. Zero Waste Edge Finishes Index

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Book SynopsisDelve into the art of menswear illustration and learn what it takes to create professional, praiseworthy fashion sketches.With over 300 color examples, illustrator and educator Lamont O''Neal uses a mixture of watercolor, marker, pencil and digital tools to help you master fundamentals such as anatomy and proportion. Later chapters focus on garment drawing, the principles of balance and movement as well classic poses and how they can highlight a design.There''s also a guide to the history of menswear illustration, with introductions to some of the most influential practitioners and discussion of how to develop your own individual style by using hand drawing as an expression of individual style and creativity. There are also reference photographs showing how sketches and illustrations relate to the finished garment, making this the ultimate guide to drawing and rendering the male fashion figure.Profiles: Cody Cannon, Carlos Aponte, Mengjie Di, Brian Lane, Ryan McMenamy, Emee MathTrade ReviewAn extensive and enlightening examination of the history of men’s fashion illustration, documented by art and tutorials that inspire. -- Bil Donovan, Fashion Illustrator and Dior Beauty Artist-in-ResidenceA thorough and much-needed book for both the student and professional, Lamont’s illustrations throughout the book make the learning experience an appealing delight. -- Professor Steven Stipelman, Fashion Institute of Technology, USATable of ContentsAcknowledgments Preface Introduction The Fashionable Male: A Brief History in Four Figures 1. Men’s Fashion Illustration: An Overview The Golden Age of Men’s Fashion Illustration The Post-War Years: 1945–1960 The Silver Age of Men’s Fashion Men’s Fashion Illustration Today: 1990– 2. Drawing the Male Fashion Figure What makes a good fashion drawing? What is the difference between a design sketch and a fashion illustration? Proportion Basic anatomy and the simplified construction of the figure The Principal Bones of the Body The Muscles of the Body A Simplified Construction of the Figure The Upper Torso Arms, Legs, Hands and Feet Drawing the Male Head Art Supplies 3. Movement The Balance or Center Front Action Lines Contrapposto Walking Poses Foreshortening Gestures 4. Drawing the Clothed Figure: Creating Dimension Line and Contour Shape Within Shape Mass Directions 5. Drawing the Garment: Details The Basics: Suit and Blazer Outerwear Knits and Sweaters Sportswear Accessories: Hats, Shoes, and Bags 6. Rendering Techniques Color Rendering: Marker, Watercolor, Gouache, Color Pencil Collage and Mixed Media Pattern and Texture: Herringbone, Checks, Plaids, and Stripes, Fur, Tweeds, Knits, Leather, Sheer and Shiny Fabrics Technical Drawings: Flats and Floats 7. Digital Art Converting Hand Drawn Figures into Digital Design Sketches Creating Digital Freehand Drawings Developing Analog and Digital Garment Flats 8. Profiles Cody Cannon Carlos Aponte Mengjie Di Brian Lane Ryan McMenamy Emee Mathew Francisco Cortés Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisFashion demands a steady flow of creative ideas. Research and Design for Fashion will guide you through the research techniques that could spark your next original collection.With practical advice on designing effective moodboards, recycling existing garments and getting to know your customer, this new edition will help you master the research process and apply it to your own designs. There''s also a wealth of advice through interviews with exceptional designers, including Christopher Raeburn, ThreeASFOUR and Magdaléna Mikulicáková, as well as updated imagery of the research and design work behind both single garments and entire collections.This fourth edition also explores how cultural events, historical anniversaries and sport influences can be the starting point for a collection. There''s also more on creative ways of recording your findings and designing for menswear, childrenswear and gender-neutral clothing.Trade ReviewA solid foundation for design students to begin their creative journey in an informative and imaginative way, and which delves deep into contemporary issues of experimental cutting, sustainability and new technologies. This is an essential read for any student taking the first step into fashion education and the industry. -- John Lau, London College of Fashion, UKTable of ContentsIntroduction 1. Research—What and Why? What is research? What is the purpose of research? What should research contain? Who are you designing for? Exercise 1: Brainstorming Interview: Veronika Hadjistefanou Interview: Ashish 2. Choosing What to Research Choosing a theme Sources of inspiration Sustainability and ethics Exercise 2: Using primary and secondary research sources Exercise 3: Trends Exercise 4: Recycled garment manipulation Interview: Christopher Raeburn Interview: Dr. Noki 3. Compiling your Research Assembling your research Drawing Collage Analysis of research Sketchbook layout Moodboards Exercise 5: Focus research pages Interview: Magdaléna Mikulicáková Interview: Zowie Broach 4. Designing from your Research Market levels in fashion Genre of clothing Bridging the gap between research and design Model and drape Key elements for design development Design Development Selecting ideas to form a collection Exercise 6: Collaging your research onto figures Exercise 7: Working with the color wheel Exercise 8: Color analysis Exercise 9: Design development Exercise 10: Design development, part 2 Interview: WGSN Interview: Ashley Fletcher 5. Communicating your Ideas Drawing for design Art materials Illustration Technical drawings Layout and composition Beyond the drawing board Exercise 11: Creating a design development six-figure template Exercise 12: Technical drawing by hand Interview: ThreeASFOUR Interview: Shelley Fox Glossary Online resources Bibliography Student resources

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Book SynopsisFashion illustration is skilful and inventive, and the best fashion illustrators can fulfil a brief creatively using their own unique approach. Visually-led and extremely accessible, this book is the go-to resource for anyone wanting to develop their own style. Easy-to-follow exercises are designed to build confidence and encourage experimentation as readers develop essential skills and learn simple and effective tips and tricks. With concise, accessible chapters on topics such as proportion, movement, line, shape and volume as well as sections on tricky areas such as hands and feet, Creative Fashion Illustration is essential reading for anyone looking to enhance their basic drawing skills. Whether coming to fashion illustration for the very first time, a student looking to develop their techniques and expand their portfolio, or even a more experienced illustrator looking for fresh ideas, this book is the ideal guide to imaginative fashion illustration that will stand out froTable of Contents1. Introduction 2. Line 3. Silhouette 4. Light and Shade 5. Collage 6. Fabrics, Pattern, Texture/Use of Media 7. Drawing Design Details 8. Exaggeration 9. Drawing from Life 10. Movement 11. Proportion 12. Faces 13. Hands and Feet 14. Style Sheet 15. Inspiration 16. Showcase

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Book SynopsisBuilding upon her previous work on everyday aesthetics, Yuriko Saito argues in this book that the aesthetic and ethical concerns are intimately connected in our everyday life. Specifically, she shows how aesthetic experience embodies a care relationship with the world and how the ethical relationship with others, whether humans, non-human creatures, environments, or artifacts, is guided by aesthetic sensibility and manifested through aesthetic means.Weaving together insights gained from philosophy, art, design, and medicine, as well as artistic and cultural practices of Japan, she illuminates the aesthetic dimensions of various forms of care in our management of everyday life. Emphasis is placed on the experience of interacting with others including objects, a departure from the prevailing mode of aesthetic inquiry that is oriented toward judgment-making from a spectator's point of view. Saito shows that when everyday activities, ranging from having a conversation and perforTrade ReviewYuriko Saito’s exploration of ethical and aesthetic sensibility in the care relationship is rich and subtle. As she proceeds, the interweaving of persons, objects, and situations grows in meaning and significance. Profound yet always accessible, her new book is rich with insight. It can and should be read and re-read. * Arnold Berleant, Professor of Philosophy (Emeritus), Long Island University, USA *Inspired in part by Japanese traditions, Aesthetics of Care is a compelling development of Saito’s insight that authentic care - for ourselves, others, objects and environments – should determine our integrated aesthetic and ethical modes of living. The book is an eloquent challenge to mainstream Western ethics and aesthetics alike. * David E. Cooper, Professor Emeritus of Philosophy, Durham University, UK *With meticulous research and characteristic insight, Yuriko Saito integrates ethics and aesthetics in this study of objects and the treatment they deserve. Her thought-provoking reflections draw attention to the care we should extend to material things and, reciprocally, the ethical and aesthetic significance of designing objects that care for us. * Carolyn Korsmeyer, Research Professor of Philosophy, University at Buffalo, USA *Yuriko Saito’s brilliant book brings her influential ideas on everyday and environmental aesthetics into a deep dialogue with our ethical lives. Drawing on ethics of care, Japanese aesthetics, and concepts such as engagement, relationality, and social aesthetics, she creates a new direction for the field by articulating the mutually enhancing commonalities between aesthetic experience and caring relationships. * Emily Brady, Professor of Philosophy, Texas A&M University, USA *Table of ContentsIntroduction 1. Care Ethics and Aesthetic Experience: Shared Commonality 2. Relationality: Aesthetic and Ethical Consequences 3. Expression of Care in Social Aesthetics 4. Care Relationship and Activities with the Material World Conclusion Notes Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisStories of Fashion, Textiles, and Place follows the journeys of five companies with evolving sustainable supply chains in the fashion and textile industry. Each of the profiled companies are committed to advancing cultural traditions of a particular place. They value, honor, and are all deeply rooted in the geography, culture, and people of a specific location and their success is attributable to their connection to that place. With this shared value, their unique stories highlight the conditions, risks, strategies, and successes in creating and maintaining sustainable supply chains for ready-to-wear and home fashions. The companies include:-Imperial Stock Ranch and Shaniko Wool Company Oregon, USA-Angela Damman Yucatán Yucatán, Mexico-Tonlé Phnom Penh, Cambodia-Indigenous Designs Highlands, Peru-Harris Tweed Outer Hebrides, Scotland, UKWith a focus on economic, social, environmental, and cultural sustainability, and the connection between textiles and place, Burns and CarvTrade ReviewAn eye-opening journey into how sustainable fashion companies can build an economy to increase a global workforce, improve lives, preserve cultures, and reduce their environmental impact. -- Elizabeth Shorrock, West Virginia University, USATable of ContentsPreface 1. Sustainable Supply Chains in the Global Fashion Industry Creating Value and Reflecting Values The Value of Place Sustainable Supply Chains Environmental Sustainability Social and Cultural Sustainability Capacity Building and Employee Empowerment Sustainable Communities Cultural Traditions Economic Sustainability Supply Chain Traceability, Assurance, and Transparency Certifications, Industry Associations, and Partnerships Industry Initiatives, Associations, and Partnerships Learning through Narratives References and Resources 2. Imperial Stock Ranch and Shaniko Wool Company: Natural Adaptations Lambing Season Changing a Mindset: Imperial Stock Ranch, Oregon, USA Starting a Yarn Business: Converting Sunlight Energy From Yarn to Finished Items Ready-to-Wear: Imperial Collection by Anna Cohen Sustainable Bridges: East and West, Rural and Urban The Business Naturally Adapts “The Call” The Power of Purpose beyond Profit Expanding Markets Traceability and Certification A Sense of Place References and Resources 3. Angela Damman Yucatán: Advancing Cultural Traditions A Henequén Bag The Yucatán Peninsula Growing Up in Minnesota, USA Moving to Yucatán Sustainable Agriculture: Cultivating and Processing the Fiber Processing the Fiber: Revitalizing an Industry Shredding, Drying, Combing Dyeing Fibers Revitalizing the Fiber Processing Industry Weaving and Product Development: Advancing Cultural Traditions Facilitating Artisan Groups A New Generation of Weavers Markets and Retailing Cultural Sustainability: Identity, Community, and Purpose References and Resources 4. Tonlé The Mekong and Tonlé Sap Rivers Growing Up The Dichotomy of Cambodian Textiles A Reluctant Businesswoman Transition and Rebranding Zero-waste Model The Artisan Workshop Model The Impact and the Message of Tonlé Today and Tomorrow References and Resources 5. Indigenous Designs: Climbing a Mountain Where Have You Been, My Friend? A Brand Is Born Climbing a Mountain Beyond Ecuador The Artisan Co-op Model Economic Sustainability: Financial Strategies Networks, Organizations, and Certifications Documenting and Communicating Impact Next Steps: Scaling an Artisan Ownership Model References and Resources 6. Harris Tweed®: Às an ghearann tha an t-aodach a’ tighinn / From the Land Comes the Cloth Clò Mòr History of the Harris Tweed Industry Harris Tweed Act 1993 and the Harris Tweed Authority Structure and Supply Chain of Harris Tweed Crofting and Wool Production Processing Wool: The Foundation of Harris Tweed Harris Tweed Mills Washing and Dyeing Wool Blending, Carding, and Spinning Wool Preparing the Warp Textile Design Weaving Harris Tweed Harris Tweed Weavers The Weaving Process Finishing and Inspecting Harris Tweed Marketing Harris Tweed: Power of the Orb Marketing Harris Tweed Markets for Harris Tweed: Tradition and Evolution Using the Harris Tweed Label on Finished Products Protecting the Orb From the People Comes the Cloth References and Resources 7. Creating and Reflecting Values through Sustainable Supply Chains The Value of Place in Sustainable Supply Chains The Value of People in Sustainable Supply Chains The Value of Product in Sustainable Supply Chains Characteristics of the Founders, CEO, Partners, and Artisans References and Resources Epilogue and Recommended Reading

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Book SynopsisNordic Classicism presents the first English-language survey of an important yet short-lived movement in modern architectural history. It was through the Nordic classical movement that Scandinavian architecture first attracted international attention. It was the Nordic Pavilions, rather than Le Corbusier's modernism, which generated most admiration at the 1925 World Fair, and it was the Nordic classical architects including Gunnar Asplund, Sigurd Lewerentz, and Alvar Aalto who went on to establish Scandinavia's reputation for modern design. Yet this brief classsical movement was quickly eclipsed by the rise of international modernism, and has often been overlooked in architectural studies. The book explores the lives and works of various key contributors to Nordic classicism with eleven chapters each focussing on a different architect and on one of the period's outstanding works (including the Stockholm Central Library, the Resurrection Chapel, and the Woodland Cemetery). Trade ReviewI have put this book on my students' core reading list. And they like it, drawn in by the author's obvious admiration of—and professional insight into—the works he presents. * Scandinavian Studies *Table of ContentsIntroduction Chapter 1 - From National Romanticism to Modernism Chapter 2 - Carl Petersen (The Faaborg Museum, Funen, Denmark) Chapter 3 - Sigurd Lewerentz (The Resurrection Chapel, Stockholm, Sweden) Chapter 4 - Marti Valikangas (Puu Kapyla Housing, Helsinki, Finland) Chapter 5 - Ivar Tengbom (The Matchstick Palace, Stockholm, Sweden) Chapter 6 - Oiva Kallio (Villa Oivala, Helsinki, Finland) Chapter 7 - Edvard Thomsen (Oregard School, Copenhagen, Denark) Chaoter 8 - Alvar Aalto (Jyvaskyla Workers Club, Jyvaskyla, Finland) Chapter 9 - Hack Kampmann (Copenhagen Police Headquarters, Denmark) Chapter 10 - JS Siren (The Finnish Parliament House, Helsinki, Finland) Chapter 11 - Gunnar Asplund and Sigurd Lewerentz (The Woodland Cemetery, Stockholm, Sweden) Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisFor centuries, the fashion industry has struggled to reconcile style with sustainability. In Historical Perspectives on Sustainable Fashion, you will be transported back in time to discover the historical dimensions of today's sustainable fashion movement. An array of success stories and cautionary tales provide both inspiration and warnings for the eco-conscious designer, encouraging an innovative approach that builds on predecessors' discoveries to move the practice of fashion forward. The 1st edition, Sustainable Fashion: Past, Present and Future, emerged from the Museum at FIT's groundbreaking exhibition Eco-Fashion: Going Green'. This revised edition broadens perspectives even further, incorporating eye-opening examples of designers, brands and activists working for change across the world today. Likewise, a new chapter examines the globalized mainstream fashion system and historical alternatives that provide compelling inspiration for reimagining the status quo.FascTrade ReviewSucceeds in bringing together many of the themes and ideas around ethical fashion. (1st edition) -- CostumeI have really valued this book since it was first published. It is well-written and accessible, but most importantly, through giving the historical perspectives, it shows the antecedents of the issues plaguing fashion now. -- Alice Payne, Queensland University of Technology, AustraliaThe book is aimed at fashion students – its layout, photographs and pitch make it a successful academic text. It is a springboard from which they are invited to delve deeper into the subject. (1st edition) -- Hayley Mildren * Resource *The ecological issues of the present day are pressing and we do not have all the answers. By looking to the lessons of history, fashion designers, manufacturers, consumers and resistors can each gain a deeper understanding of how we got to where we are today, and how we might use past practices as a departure point for radical change and as a sourcebook of inspirational methods to refresh present-day thinking. Through a clear structure, covering Materials and Process, Design and Manufacture, Reuse and Recycling, Labour Practices, and Treatment of Animals, the authors construct a usable past of origin stories and contemporary parallels in the production and consumption of clothing. The historical research sits alongside museum examples of surviving garments, while the contemporary debates engage with the latest arguments and the freshest responses to the urgent need to do fashion differently. By the close of the final chapter, which looks at fashion systems in the round, and encourages imaginative and speculative thinking, readers will be inspired to take up history's gauntlet and find new solutions to fashion's enduring problems. - Annebella Pollen, Professor of Visual and Material Culture, University of Brighton, UKTable of ContentsIntroduction 1. Materials and processes Materials and processes: how did we get here? The development of cotton Wool and its competitors Silk and rayon Synthetic fibers Unconventional materials The invention of synthetic dyes Human impacts of dyeing Environmental impacts of dyeing Materials and processes: inspiration for change Organic cotton The resurgence of wool Hemp and flax Lyocell and bamboo Lower impact dyes Natural dyes Materials and processes: thinking critically Materials and processes: further reading 2. Design and Manufacture Design and manufacture: how did we get here? Clothing production before mechanization Advancements in spinning and weaving The sewing machine and ready-made clothing Choice and disposability Design and manufacture: inspiration for change Wartime restrictions and quality Post-war couture Artisanal techniques and slow fashion5 Design features Design and manufacture: thinking critically Design and manufacture: further reading 3. Reuse and Recycling Reuse and recycling: how did we get here? Repurposing practices Shawls and scraps The Great Depression and the Second World War Shoddy recycling Reuse and recycling: inspiration for change Post-war repurposing The rise of vintage Repurposing and upcycling in the 1990s and 2000 A new era of fiber recycling Reuse and recycling: thinking critically Reuse and recycling: further reading 4. Labor Practices Labor practices: how did we get here? Textile mills Child labor Garment factories Globalization and sweatshops Subcontracting and safety Labor practices: inspiration for change Unionization Labeling Designer-led action Labor rights in a globalized industry Cooperatives and fair trade Labor practices: thinking critically Labor practices: further reading 5. Treatment of Animals Treatment of animals: how did we get here? Feather adornments The use of fur Trapping and farming Treatment of animals: inspiration for change Anti-feather campaigns Anti-fur campaigns Fake and “ethical” fur Treatment of animals: thinking critically Treatment of animals: further reading 6. Fashion systems Fashion systems: how did we get here? Enclosure, capitalism and modernity The European fashion system and the Industrial Revolution Consumerism and change Fashion systems: inspiration for change How clothes are used New approaches to dressing the body Challenging social norms Domestic and custom making Local production and local distinctiveness Restricting and managing production Fashion systems: thinking critically Fashion systems: further reading Conclusion Notes Select bibliography Glossary Index

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Book SynopsisFrom 2016-2018, teachers and students at the State University of Rio de Janeiro in Brazil found themselves at the center of a crisis. A new right-wing government suspended payment of staff salaries and student scholarships and stopped funding basic maintenance. Everyday Acts of Design tells the story of how the university's design school reacted to the crisis: not with despondency or despair, but by promoting a series of radical teaching experiments. Working together, students, alumni, teachers, and staff embraced hope as a method, demonstrating that it is possible to find positive answers even in a situation of imminent collapse. The case histories narrated in the book provide alternatives to conventional forms of design teaching, but also prove that education can be a site for democracy and the practice of freedom. Deprived of the activity of creating for an imagined future, design can still assert a way forward through practices of making and experimenting. Drawing on their persoTrade ReviewZoy Anastassakis and Marcos Martins take us on a personal journey through the challenges of leadership, management and teaching in a design school during times of uncertainty, precariousness and government neglect in Brazil. Weaving together stories of everyday experiences demonstrating at once alternative ways of thinking design acts, the resilience of educators and students, and the bonds that are developed when a situation and a state is on the brink of collapse, this book is an urgent read for all design students and educators. -- Dana Abdullah, University of the Arts London, UKIn this account of a present intensively lived, Anastassakis and Martins reveal the individual struggles and collective actions of ESDI’s prodigious community of precarious lives. Reimagining the first and foremost design education institution in Brazil, Latin America and the Portuguese language demanded shuffling functions, challenging privileges and questioning conventions. But also claiming resistance, vulnerability, care, interdependence, coexistence and solidarity as essential terms of a design lexicon they generously share with us in this momentous book. -- Frederico Duarte, University of Lisbon, PortugalHope is perhaps the element to be harnessed in a time that insists on oppressing and in which different ways of doing things are designed to circumvent the investments of domination. In these margins, scribbling is the act of imprinting life, whether it be to inscribe battles and continuity, or to strike through the logics that paint a world obsessed with a single, exclusive method. Education, when it becomes an inventive and radical stroke of life, affirms itself as an ordinary task, as everyday acts that give other contours to the margins. -- Luiz Rufino, Rio de Janeiro State University, BrazilTable of ContentsList of Figures Foreword, Timothy Ingold (University of Aberdeen, UK) Acknowledgements Historical Background Map and ESDI Ground Plan Introduction 1. Landing 2. Curriculum 3. A Land-slipping panic 4. Drawing Together 5. Crisis 6. Design Research 7. Impasses and Correspondences 8. How do you get to the university? 9. Walking barefoot Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisA detailed, step-by-step guide to successfully altering and repairing ready-made apparel that will help you achieve the perfect fit and extend the life of your clothing.Whether you are interested in tailoring your wardrobe, starting a business, or learning a skill that will save you money and the planet, you''ll find what you need through illustrated step-by-step projects and no-nonsense videos. You''ll learn to make alterations to your ready-made clothing, including a variety of hemming techniques and taking in/ letting out seams, and repair methods to fix zippers, tears, and holes. There are also detailed guidelines on more complex techniques, including adjusting suit jacket sleeves, reshaping necklines and even fixing backpacks, tents and bags.Trade ReviewChelsey's passion for teaching comes through vividly in this book. Her knowledge of various alteration techniques will aid anyone learning to sew or complete clothing alterations. There is a growing trend to reduce textile waste by altering or repairing the clothing that would otherwise end up in a landfill. If you would like to contribute to that trend then this book is step one for you. * Sara Holden, Owner, Altered Ego, LLC, USA. *A long-awaited and very welcome addition to my shelf. Chelsey Byrd Lewallen does a masterful job of providing the depth and the detail of repairs, without making assumptions of the reader’s skill level or ability, making this an incredibly accessible text for all levels. * Sarah Mosher, Assistant Professor of Costume Design and Technology in Theatre Arts, Baylor University, USA *Table of ContentsPreface Introduction 1. How to Use this Book and Tools of the Trade How to Use this Book Tools of the Trade Types of Pins Types of Rulers Marking Tools Needles Thread Machines Pressing/ Ironing Hardware and Tools 2. Working with Alterations, Repairs and Clients Before you get started The Bare Necessities Sewing Space The Deluxe Sewing Space Step Two: The Logistics of Clothing Alterations and Repairs Finding the Problem Step Three: Working with clients Identifying fabric Fiber Content Structure: Wovens, Knits, and Nonwovens 3. Bottom Hems Shortening Measuring Pants, Shorts, Skirts and Dresses for Hemming Serge and Blind Hem Three Methods: Blind Hemming Machine, Home Machine Blind Hem, or Hand Stitch Twice Turn Hem Cadet Cut Hem Knitwear Coverstitch Hem Knitwear Faux Coverstitch using a Twin Needle Twice-Turned Hem On Eveningwear and Formalwear Napkin Roll Hem Hand Stitch Hems: Cross Stitch, Vertical Hem Stitch, Prick/ Pick Stitch Cross Stitch Vertical Hem Stitch Prick/ Pick Stitch Lengthening Bottom Hems: Maxing Out Adding Fabric Bias Tape Adding Fabric Adding Lace 4. Top Hems Knitwear Coverstitch Knitwear Faux Coverstitch using a Twin Needle Shirttail Hem Lined Suit Jacket Hem Unlined Suit Jacket Hems Maxing Out Seam Allowance Lengthening Suit Jacket Hems 5. Taking in Bottoms Back Gap Waistbands: Using Elastic Side Seams/ Outseams & Inseam Tips Sample Measurement Table Inseams Darts/Pleats/ Tucks Ease/ Gathers Taking in a Skirt or Pant with a Side Zipper Side Seams Inseams Waistbands: Using Seam Allowance, Elastic, or Gussets Waistbands: Using Seam Allowance Waistbands: Using Elastic Waistbands: Using Gussets/ Farbic Panels 6. Letting Out Bottoms Side Seams Inseams Waistbands: Using Seam Allowance, Elastic, or Gussets Waistbands: Using Seam Allowance 7. Jeans Taking in the Center Back/ Back Gap: Jeans Jeans Hem with Option to Distress Original Jean Hem Taking in the Outseams/ Inseams 8. Taking in Tops Side Seams Princess Seams/ Darts on Front Top Pleats/ Tucks Boned Bodices in Formalwear 9. Letting Out Tops Side Seams Panels Boned Bodices in Formalwear 10. Sleeves, Shoulders and Armscyes When to Say “No!” Taking up Shoulders Taking in Sleeves or Sleeves and Side Seams Lined Suit Jacket Sleeve Hems Button Down Shirt Cuffs and Plackets 11. Crotch Seams How to Measure Crotch Seams Taking in Crotch Seams Letting out Crotch Seams Adding Gussets 12. Necklines and Collars Collar/ Neckline Types Reshaping Necklines Collar Adjustments 13. Repairs Buttons How to Sew on a Button that has Fallen off or is Loose on a Garment two and Four-Hole Button Shank Button Decorative Patches/ Visible Mending Iron-On Patches Stitch Witchery/ Fusible Bonding Patches About Darning Machine Darning Hand Darning Zippers Anatomy of a Zipper Types of Zippers When to Replace a Zipper When to Fix a Zipper/ Replace a Zipper Head Replacing a Zipper Head on Non-Separating/Closed/ Closed at Both Ends/ Continuous Zippers Replacing a Zipper Head on for Separating Zippers When to Replace a Zipper Head When to Say No Linings Replacing or Rethreading Drawstrings Hook and Loop Tape Resources Glossary Acknowledgements Index

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Book SynopsisWhile most books on architecture concentrate on spatial themes, this book explores architecture's temporal dimensions. Through a series of close readings of buildings, both contemporary and classic, it demonstrates the centrality of time in modern architecture, and shows why an understanding of time is critical to understanding good architecture.All buildings exist in time. Even if designed for permanence, they change, slowly but inevitably. They change use, they accrue history and meaning, they decay all of these processes are inscribed in time. So too is the path traced by the sun through a building, and the movements of the human body from room to room. Time, this book argues, is the framework for our spatial experience of architecture, and a key dimension of a building's structure and significance. Building Time presents twelve close readings of buildings and artworks which explore this idea. Examining works by distinctive modern architects from Eileen Gray to Álvaro Trade ReviewBuilding Time is based on the author's own physical and mental experience of the objects examined, as well as an almost intimate knowledge of the architect's work, the processes of creation, the craft, the spaces and the details. One senses that this is an architecture that occupies Leatherbarrow, in which he is deeply committed. And perhaps this is precisely one of the explanations why his descriptions and interpretations manage to hit so precisely. * Arkitekten (Bloomsbury translation) *Leatherbarrow focuses his meditative attention on lasting works of architecture and art. Discussing projects and paintings with particular sensitivity to light and material, he works like a clockmaker, patiently disassembling architectural mechanisms into their component parts, and explaining how buildings operate in time. * John Tuomey, O’Donnell + Tuomey Architects, Ireland *When Leatherbarrow writes about time he is also writing about the slow and then ever faster passage of our own lives. Even as we visit the Pantheon to watch time literally move before our eyes and we are reminded that it also measures the span of our own existence. This is a dense, lyrical, and heartbreaking book about our lives and our buildings. * Billie Tsien, Tod Williams Billie Tsien Architects, USA *Linger, return, and remember rhythm this meditation on the interactions of time, space and place for both author and reader. Not since the romantic writers of the early 19th century has the temporal dimension of architecture been viewed patiently from so many facets. * Barry Bergdoll, Meyer Schapiro Professor of Art History, Columbia University, USA *Building Time suggests that architecture matters partly because architecture weathers orienting and grounding us: by keeping its identity amidst contextual change, inevitable decay, and eventual renewal, as well as recording its own creation and survival. The world stage, the active body and the project script frame the close reading of chosen modern masterpieces in time and as time. Sound, serviceable, and delightful. * Carlos Eduardo Comas, Federal University of Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil *Building Time is a graceful, timely, and purposeful walk through a garden of architectural knowledge, offering an account—in all, a theory—not just of human spatial experience through time (first we go here, then we go there...), but of the world experiencing itself through the medium of buildings, especially buildings which, in having long-term ethical projects as well as complexities of their own, are works of architecture. With Proustian intimacy and often dizzying insight, Leatherbarrow enlarges the very language we use to understand architecture. Buildings are indifferent only apparently. In marking time, in accommodating the fleeting, in witnessing and in suffering, they bring up the future. * Michael Benedikt, The University of Texas at Austin, USA *The range of examples that Leatherbarrow brings together in Building Time is rich, stimulating, and rooted in the tangible ... He is a patient, knowledgeable, and observant guide to particular buildings and places, and their particular times. * arq: Architectural Research Quarterly *Table of ContentsIntroduction 1: Making Space for Time Part One: The Time of the World 2: Day Time 3: Well-Timed Openings 4: Tempered Terrain 5: World Rhythms Part Two: The Time of the Body 6: Taking Steps 7: Pacing and Spacing 8: Wandering Sites 9: Pedestrian Rhythms Part Three: The Time of the Project 10: Past and Present Possibilities 11: Proposing Precedents 12: Recalling Future Projects 13: Project Rhythms Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisHow has the fashion industry responded to turn-of-the-millennium non-binary identities? Do they have a supportive or exploitative relationship with queer, trans and ageing subjects? Fashion, Identity, Image unpacks these questions and many more in relation to clothing and representation, identity and body politics in British, European and American culture between 1990 and 2020. Jobling, Nesbitt and Wong explore issues of intersectionality and inclusivity through groundbreaking shows, including Maria Grazia Chiuri's We Should All Be Feminists' catwalk show for Dior (Spring-Summer 2017), Alexander McQueen's The Widows of Culloden' collection (Fall-Winter 2006), and the role of transgender models such as Oslo Grace since 2015. Looking to the future of our relationship with fashion, there''s also an investigation of the android as a redemptive figure in Alessandro Michele's cross-cultural cyborg collection for Gucci (Autumn-Winter 2018/2019) and the impact of the ageing pTrade ReviewGives currency to the importance of fashion as an arbiter of change at a time when the multiplicity and fragmentation of gender is affecting the ways we perceive and experience our bodies and our identities. Its contents will incite ideas and heated debates and I am sure it will be a book whose pages will be well-thumbed and whose subject matter will make for long and passionate arguments and conversations. -- Vicki Karaminas, Massey University, New ZealandUtilizing recent and historic examples, the authors offer a robust account of the role of the fashion industry in creating age, race, gender, and posthuman identities, both actual and fantastic. I finished this book with inspiration for my teaching and research. -- Andrew Reilly, University of Hawai`i, Manoa,Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Acknowledgements Introduction 1. Authoring Fashion, Intersecting Sex and Gender Introduction Maria Grazia Chiuri’s ‘We Should All Be Feminists’ T-Shirt for Christian Dior: Branding, identity and authorship Between the womb and the gay parade: Alexander McQueen’s ‘The Widows of Culloden’ as poetic text Subverting the symbolic order: McQueen’s abject woman Conclusion: Squaring up to the phallic mother Notes 2. Written on the body: Fashion, clothing and age Introduction ‘Active ageing’, youthfulness and fashion ‘Fashion For All Ages’ and the new old model army Race and reversing convention Conclusion: From idiotic methods to the realities of time and place Notes 3. (Un)Gendering the runway Introduction Forerunners of transgender and non-binary identities in fashion The advent of transgendered models The abject trans-model Between abjection and acceptance ‘Come into the (trans)garden’: The heterotopia of fashion The authentic self Other models: Intersectionality and wider diversity in the fashion industry Tokenism versus activism Conclusion: Between tokenism and authenticity Notes 4. Loving the alien: Fashion and cyborg identities Introduction Andrea Giacobbe and ‘Simplex Concordia’ Alessandro Michele and the Gucci Cyborg Compromising race and diversity A ‘genuine cyborg manifesto’? Conclusion: Towards emancipatory possibilities Notes Epilogue

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Book SynopsisFascinating. Perspective A fascinating, often funny, and eminently stylish personal memoir I loved it. - Chris Breward, author of The SuitWide-ranging, thought-provoking and important. - Claire Wilcox, author of Patch Work Elizabeth Wilson is a pioneer of fashion studies, yet she never intended to become an academic. Starting her literary career as a feminist activist writing for the underground press, she went on to explore tennis, bohemians' and of course fashion her obsession along with forays into fiction. Throughout, she has never seen her work as abstract or disengaged from real life'. In her memoir, she traces this relationship between personal experience and her writing, revisiting pivotal moments from childhood, adolescence and adult life to explore her belief that research, by its nature, is always a form of autobiography. She unfolds the garment of her life in a wide-ranging exploration of scenes from her paTrade ReviewIt’s impossible not to warm instantly to Elizabeth Wilson … Unfolding the Past is so packed with Wilson’s literary allusions, as well as her observations about life, sex, film and fashion over the centuries, it’s like dipping into the anecdotes of a clever salonnière, peopled with Djuna Barnes, Proust and Marlene Dietrich. Wilson weaves a memoir in which the uniting thread is how clothing trends reflect changing mores as well as creating new cultural norms … Freed from the “invisible cloak” of her childhood, Wilson’s fascinating text shows how fashion can be the opposite of frivolity. Ultimately, she says, it’s the “search for personal identity through aesthetic experience". -- Belinda Bamber * Perspective *Unfolding the Past is a deeply personal memoir that traces significant moments in the author’s life where she recognises that all research is autobiographical … [It] will appeal to many: the young may curiously plunder what occurred before their existence, while those who lived through the mentioned decades might poignantly recall their clothing choices. -- Sarah E. Braddock Clarke * Selvedge *A fascinating, often funny, and eminently stylish personal memoir [and] a moving insider’s account of radical lives in challenging times … I loved it. * Chris Breward, Author of The Suit, and Director, National Museums Scotland, UK *Wide-ranging, thought-provoking and important. * Claire Wilcox, Author of Patch Work and Senior Curator of Fashion, V&A *Brilliant and important ... [Wilson] is an exceptionally gifted writer, lucid, direct, engaging, often witty, always stimulating ... [A] book at once sinewy and elegant, rigorous and accessible, tough minded and enjoyable. * Richard Dyer, Professor Emeritus, King's College, London, UK *Elizabeth Wilson has always been an elegant thinker and an elegant dresser. Her memoir recalls a life lived believing both matter in a world that regarded them as mutually exclusive. A pleasure to read. * Alistair O'Neill, Author of London: After Fashion and Professor of Fashion History and Theory, Central Saint Martins, UK *An outstanding chronicler of our times ... [and] a sophisticated and informed cultural commentator. * Helen Taylor, Author of Why Women Read Fiction, and Professor of English, University of Exeter, UK *That such an important figure might now re-view, retrospectively, her own intellectual history, during a long and distinguished career, through the filter of her life and experiences, is incredibly exciting. * Caroline Evans, Professor Emerita, Central Saint Martins, UK *Table of ContentsList of Illustrations 1. Outside Looking In 2. First Came Reading 3. Researching My Life 4. Bodies in the Library 5. Dressing the Postwar Young Woman 6. Living the Bohemian Sixties 7. What Does a Lesbian Look Like? 8. Writing Feminism 9. Bad Decade 10. The Vulgar 11. Fashion as Fetish 12. Haunted Houses 13. Nostalgia Mode 14. Cracks in the Pavement 15. In Search of Lost Streets 16. A Visit to Rimini 17. Returning to Queens Club 18. Hedonism 19. Down There on a Visit References Index

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Book SynopsisAddressing textiles as a distinctive area of cultural practice and field of scholarly research, The Textile Reader introduces students to the key issues essential to the exploration of the textile from both a critical and a creative perspective. The second edition brings together lectures, catalogue essays, academic articles, fiction and poetry, as well as several articles available in English translation for the first time, to capture the diversity of voices informing textile studies today.Content is organized around the themes of touch, memory, structure, politics, and production plus a new section exploring the role of community. With 22 new contributors, this revised edition includes selected work from Maria Fusco, Ursula le Guin, Elaine Igoe, Faith Ringgold, and T''ai Smith. Extended introductions and annotated suggestions for further reading by the editor Jessica Hemmings make the second edition an invaluable resource to students of textiles, craft and material culture.Trade ReviewThis Reader is not merely a collection, but more of an interrogation that speaks from the past to the future. With this in mind, The Textile Reader is not a ‘page turner’, but a constant companion, a new friend that has been there and done that, and thus offers the reader a platform from which to consider and develop the future of the discipline. -- Textile History (of the 1st edition)[T]he pieces are well chosen: they read as though they were selected because someone likes them and finds them interesting, and this gives the selection personality and integrity ... Its greatest value is, however, in its general sense of opening out the genres and the way in which it creates a space for different types of writing on textiles to be considered on an equal footing. -- The Journal of Modern Craft (of the 1st edition)Will undoubtedly become a key resource for all those interested in considering the location of textile practice, but also for those who seek to understand and challenge textile practice's perceived inferiority as a mode of practice. -- Embroidery Magazine (of the 1st edition)An ideal foundational text to give an overview of the broad field of Textile Research. It allows students access to a range of themes and key authors in the field which can then be researched in more depth. -- Dr Fiona Curran, Royal College of Art, UK (of the 1st edition)Evocative, expansive, and enchanting. Hemmings weaves together essays, poems, and literary gems that reveal the nuanced, complex, curious, intimate and political touchpoints of textiles in our lives for a more inclusive, affective reading of our world. I recommend this brilliant anthology to creative scholars, enquiring readers, and knitters, weavers, makers, designers and textile artists worldwide. - Dr Erica de Greef, Co-Director, African Fashion Research Institute, South AfricaThe Textile Reader is an essential companion to anyone studying, researching or critically thinking about textiles. Compelling new essays, wider geographies and a greater diversity of voices bring added depth and richness to this distinctive anthology. The excerpts from novels, short stories and poetry within each thematic section, hold the attention and are reminders of the potential power of textiles to speak both cross-culturally and transnationally. - Dr Christine Checinska, Senior Curator, V&A MuseumTable of ContentsIntroduction 1. Touch 1. Victoria Mitchell (1997) ‘Textiles, Text and Techne’ 2. T’ai Smith (2014) ‘The Haptics of Optics: Weaving and Photography’ (excerpt) 3. Elaine Igoe (2010) ‘The Tacit-Turn: Textile design in design research’ 4. Pennina Barnett (1999) ‘Folds, Fragments, Surfaces: Towards a poetics of cloth’ 5. Catherine Harper (2005) “Meditation on Translation and Seduction” 6. Isak Dinesen (1957) ‘The Blank Page’ 7. Birgitta Nordstro¨m (2020) ‘How do you Footnote a Smile? One Dialog about Two Extremes of Textile Research’ 2. Memory 8. Jenni Sorkin (2000) ‘Stain: On Cloth, Stigma, and Shame’ 9. Isabel Cristina González Arango (2013/2021) ‘Claiming the Right to Memory, Stitch by Stitch: The experience of the Costurero Tejedoras por la Memoria de Sonsón’ (the Sonsón Memory Sewing Group) 10. Marit Paasche (2019) ‘We Are Living on a Star’ (excerpt) 11. Roger Hutchinson (2011) The Silent Weaver (excerpt) 12. Faith Ringgold (2019) ‘Interview: Faith Ringgold and Hans Ulrich Obrist’ (excerpt) 13. Sue Prichard (2005) ‘Collecting the Contemporary: Love Will Decide What Is Kept and Science Will Decide How It Is Kept’ 14. Sarah Scaturro (2020) ‘(Im)mortal Fashion: Iris van Herpen’s “Skeleton” Dress’ 15. Takahashi Mizuki (2019) ‘Hong Kong’s Textile Industrial Heritage: Transformations to a place of weaving creative experiences for all’ 3. Structure 16. Gottfried Semper (1851/1989) ‘The Four Elements of Architecture’ (excerpt) 17. Philip Beesley (1999) ‘Reflexive Textile’ 18. Otti Berger and Judith Raum (1930/2019) ‘Fabrics in Space’ & ‘Weaving and Interior Design’: Voice-over for the video Discussion of Material (excerpt) 19. Catherine de Zegher (1997) ‘Ouvrage: Knot a Not, Notes as Knots’ 20. Gilles Deleuze & Felix Guattari (1987) ‘1440 The Smooth & the Striated’ (excerpt) 21. Sabrina Gschwandtner (2008) ‘Knitting Is…’ 22. Kate Goldsworthy, Rebecca Earley and Kay Politowicz (2019) ‘Circular Speeds: A Review of Fast & Slow Sustainable Design Approaches for Fashion & Textile Applications’ 4. Politics 23. James Fenimore Cooper (1843) Autobiography of a Pocket Handkerchief (excerpt) 24. Arthur C. Danto (2006) ‘Weaving as Metaphor and Model for Political Thought’ 25. Sarat Maharaj (1991) ‘Arachne’s Genre: Towards Intercultural Studies in Textiles’ 26. Susan S. Bean (1989) ‘Gandhi and Khadi, the Fabric of Indian Independence’ 27. Pamela Johnson (2011) ‘100% Cotton’ 28. Galina Kareva (2011/2021) ‘Ivanovo’s Agitprop Textiles: Design and Inscriptions’ 29. Elisa Auther (2008) ‘Fiber Art and the Hierarchy of Art and Craft, 1960–80’ 30. Julia Bryan-Wilson (2017) ‘Queer Handmaking’ (excerpt) 31. Charlotte Perkins Gilman (1892) ‘The Yellow Wallpaper’ (excerpt) 5. Production 32. Roger MacDougall (1951) The Man in the White Suit (excerpt) 33. Maria Fusco (2018) ‘machine oil smells sweet (piecework)’ 34. Melanie Miller (2007) ‘The Romance of Modern Manufacture: A Brief History of Embroidered Embellishment’ 35. Sadie Plant (1997) Zeroes + Ones: Digital women + the new technoculture (excerpt) 36. Ele Carpenter (2010) ‘Open Source Embroidery: Curatorial Facilitation Of Material Networks’ 37. Boatema Boateng (2011) ‘Why Should the Copyright Thing Work Here?’ (excerpt) 38. Sarah Rhodes (2015) ‘Contemporary textile imagery in Southern Africa: a question of ownership’ 39. Yosi Anaya (2016/2021) ‘Heneque´n, A Green Fiber with a Complex History in Yucatan’ 6. Community 40. Nathaniel Hawthorne (1850) The Scarlet Letter (excerpt) 41. Joseph McBrinn (2021) ‘Needlework and the creation of masculinities: “The prick” of patriarchy’ (excerpt) 42. Jools Gilson (2012) ‘Navigation, Nuance and half/angel's Knitting Map: A series of navigational directions…’ 43. Rose Sinclair (2020) ‘Tracing Back to Trace Forwards: What does it mean/take to be a Black textile designer’ 44. Alice Walker (1973) ‘Everyday Use’ 45. Ursula K. Le Guin (1984) ‘The Trouble with the Cotton People’ (excerpt)

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Book SynopsisOffering a new perspective on British fashion history, Wholesale Couture demonstrates that these couturiers were vital in cementing London's status as a ready-to-wear fashion centre.The first book to consider the subject, Wholesale Couture: London and Beyond, 1930-70 seeks to revise the notion that wholesale couturiers were simply copyists and demonstrate the complexities of their design processes and business strategies. This term has fallen out of usage; however, it was used to describe the pinnacle of the British ready-to-wear fashion industry between the 1930s and 1960s. Companies within this sector have typically been recognised as creators of high-quality copies of French haute couture, using ready-to-wear techniques.Liz Tregenza traces wholesale couture garments from concept to usage, considering design, manufacture, branding, promotion, retail and export. She looks beyond the garments produced and investigates the people behind these firm

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Book SynopsisIn the last half of the 19th century, the women of America were beginning to develop their own sense of style. Although influenced by European fashions and the social and economic changes of the time, they made clothing choices based upon their personal aspirations and their practical everyday needs. Providing an overview of fashion influences for each decade from the 1860s to the end of the century, Everyday Fashion in Found Photographs presents iconic garments, using sources from the period, to provide commentary and detailed description of the styles of the time. Previously unpublished vintage photographs show women across the social spectrum wearing items such as the Garibaldi shirt, the cuirass bodice, the Mother Hubbard, bicycle bloomers, and much more. Names, dates and functions of garments are examined in detail, and ties are established between social and historical contexts and the evolution of clothing styles.This illustrated book is for readers who want to identify aTrade ReviewA blend of women's visual, social, and material culture history that encompasses differing social classes and geographical areas, this book is an excellent introduction to American women's fashions of the second half of the nineteenth century. * Karin Bohleke, Shippensburg University, USA *Table of ContentsIntroduction: The Lens of Fashion The 1860s: Beauty in Austerity The 1870s: Change and Choice The 1880s: Contrasts and Control The 1890s: The New Woman Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisOf all avian groups, birds of prey in particular have long been a prominent subject of fascination in many human societies. This book demonstrates that the art and materiality of human engagements with raptors has been significant through deep time and across the world, from earliest prehistory to Indigenous thinking in the present day. Drawing on a wide range of global case studies and a plurality of complementary perspectives, it explores the varied and fluid dynamics between humans and birds of prey as evidenced in this diverse art-historical and archaeological record. From their depictions as powerful beings in visual art and their important roles in Indigenous mythologies, to the significance of their body parts as active agents in religious rituals, the intentional deposition of their faunal remains and the display of their preserved bodies in museums, there is no doubt that birds of prey have been figures of great import for the shaping of human society and culture. H

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Book SynopsisIt is often said that the devil has all the best tunes. He also has as many names as he has guises. Lucifer, Mephistopheles, Beelzebub (in Christian thought), Ha-Satan or the Adversary (in Jewish scripture) and Iblis or Shaitan (in Islamic tradition) has throughout the ages and across civilizations been a compelling and charismatic presence. For two thousand years the supposed reign of God has been challenged by the fiery malice of his opponent, as contending forces of good and evil have between them weighed human souls in the balance. In this rich and multi-textured biography, Philip C Almond explores the figure of the devil from the first centuries of the Christian era through the rise of classical demonology and witchcraft persecutions to the modern post-Enlightenment ''decline'' of Hell. The author shows that the Prince of Darkness, in all his incarnations, remains an irresistible subject in history, religion, art, literature and culture.Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Acknowledgements Prologue Chapter One: The ‘Birth’ of the Devil Angels and Demons, Sons and Lovers ‘The Book of the Watchers’ Angels, Arising and Falling The Birth of ‘Satan’ The Archdemon Belial Satan and Jesus The Fall of the Dragon Chapter Two: The Fall of the Devil The Fall of Man The Satanic Serpent Pride Cometh before a Fall Lucifer Descending The Battleground of History Chapter Three: Hell’s Angel Paying Off the Devil The Demonic Paradox The Harrowing of Hades In Hell, and in the Air Chapter Four: The Devil Rides Out A Pope Bewitched Cathars, Moderate and Extreme Angels and Demons The Demonisation of Magic Magic Defined, Damned, and Defended Conjuring Demons and Conversations with Angels Chapter Five: Devilish Bodies The Demonisation of Popular Magic Errors Not Cathartic but Satanic The Devil, Sex and Sexuality Embodied Demons Chapter Six: The Devil and the Witch Infanticide and Cannibalism Travels Sabbatical The Satanic Pact The Devil’s Mark Chapter Seven: A Very Possessing Devil The Possessed Body Possession, Medicine, and Sceptics Forensic Demonology Beyond the Borders of the Human Exorcising the Devil Chapter Eight: The Devil Defeated The Binding and Loosing of Satan The Antichrist Adso and the Antichrist The Future Binding of Satan Apocalypse Now Satan and the Fires of Hell Chapter Nine: The ‘Death’ of the Devil Satan and Superstition The Cessation of Miracles The Devil De-skilled The Devil Disembodied Bodies, Platonic and Demonic Disenchanting the World Epilogue Notes Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisA thick, tangled and deliciously idiosyncratic history of hair. Times Literary SupplementThe Middle Ages were a time of great innovation, artistic vigor, and cultural richness. Appearances mattered a great deal during this vibrant era and hair was a key marker of the dynamism and sophistication of the period. Hair became ever more central to religious iconography, from Mary Magdalen to the Virgin Mary, while vernacular poets embellished their verses with descriptions of hairstyles both humble and elaborate, and merchants imported the finest hair products from great distances.Drawing on a wealth of visual, textual and object sources, the volume examines how hairstyles and their representations developedoften to a degree of dazzling complexitybetween the years AD 800 and AD 1450. From wimpled matrons and tonsured monks to adorned noblewomen, hair is revealed as a potent cultural symbol of gender, age, sexuality, health, class, and race.Illustrated with aTrade ReviewA thick, tangled and deliciously idiosyncratic history of hair ... There is plenty to inform and intrigue. * Times Literary Supplement *[A] thoroughly researched, theoretically grounded volume that sheds needed light on the cultural significances of hair in medieval visual and literary culture. -- Holly Flora, Tulane University, USATable of ContentsSeries Preface Introduction 1. Religion and Ritualized Belief, Alexa Sand 2. Self and Society, Hanna Hopwood 3. Fashion and Adornment, Laura Diener 4. Production and Practice, Laura Diener 5. Health and Hygiene, Fernando Salmón and Montserrat Cabré 6. Gender and Sexuality, Martha Easton 7. Race and Ethnicity, Kim M. Phillips 8. Class and Social Status, John Friedman 9. Cultural Representations, Penny Howell Jolly Notes Bibliography Notes on Contributors Index

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Book SynopsisVéronique Chagnon-Burke is an art historian, co-founder of Women Art Dealers Digital Archives, co-chair of The International Art Market Studies Association, section editor for the Art Market Dictionary, and former Director of Christie's Education in New York (20022021).Caterina Toschi is Associate Professor of contemporary art history and history of photography at the University for Foreigners of Siena, Italy. She is co-founder of Women Art Dealers Digital Archives and Senzacornice, and Associate Director of the Santa Maddalena Foundation.

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Book SynopsisThis book provides an insight into the life of a professional lighting designer, through interviews with lighting designers at different stages of their careers plus a group interview with the designer and lighting team of the hit musical Billy Elliot. The designers featured are The interviewees are: Neil Austin, Natasha Chivers, Jon Clark, Paule Constable, Rick Fisher, Richard Howell, Howard Hudson, Jessica Hung Han Yun, Mark Jonathan, Amy Mae, Ben Ormerod, Bruno Poet, Jackie Shemesh and Johanna Town. Between them, they have worked all over the world on shows of every genre collecting many awards for their work along the way.They share inspiration and practical advice, useful to anyone embarking on a career in lighting, fascinating to anyone who enjoys going to the theatre, offering insights into: > approaching a new design; > dealing with the challenges each new show brings, from working with a new director to being part of a creative team in realising

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Book SynopsisEsra Plumer completed her PhD at the University of Nottingham, UK, on the work of Unica Zürn and her development of the technique of automatism as an artistic strategy. Dr Plumer is the leading expert on the artistic work of Zürn with an extensive background in the history of psychoanalysis and psychiatric treatment methods. She has taught at the University of Nottingham, the European University of Lefke and The Courtauld Institute of Art.Trade ReviewThe first significant and sustained English language study of the writer and artist that attempts to explicitly remove her from Bellmer's leaden shadow and show her as significant in her own right... The result of Plumer's careful and exhaustive scholarship is an image both of Zürn as an individual separate from the better known Bellmer, as well as her body of work as a distinct and unique contribution to postwar arts and literature. Plumer’s book is itself a superb and groundbreaking contribution to scholarship on Zürn and postwar Surrealism generally. In particular, Plumer provides great insight and methodological clarity into how to examine the relationship between mental illness and artistic creation without reducing one to the other, an activity that has, unfortunately, been the standard approach for so long. * Journal of Modern Literature *‘Esra Plumer’s illuminating study swiftly escapes the claws of psychobiography. Instead, she opts for an informative account of Unica Zürn’s oeuvre (both visual and textual) as an outcome of a conscious artistic strategy, at times infused by her mental illness, rather than a product of such illness per se. What emerges is a well-overdue portrait of an exceptional artist who was far more than just la femme de Bellmer, as demonstrated in Plumer’s astute analysis of the complexities of artistic and personal collaboration.’ * Kamila Kuc, Post-Doctoral Research Fellow in New Media, Goldsmiths, University of London *‘Esra Plumer’s comprehensive study of the literary and artistic works of Unica Zürn is highly informative. She presents Zürn as an autonomous artist and also reviews her early period in Berlin. One particular merit is that it at last enables the English-speaking world to share an insight into the surrealistic oeuvre of an exceptional German-French artist.’ * Dagmar Schmengler and Isabel Fischer, curators of the exhibition 'Unica Zürn – Camaro – Hans Bellmer in Berlin: Early works at Camaro Haus, Berlin' (2016) *Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Acknowledgements Foreword by Mary Ann Caws Introduction 1. Beginnings of Change 2. Exhibitions and Exposure 3. ‘Femme de Bellmer’: Critical Reception from 1984 to 2014 4. Anagrams 5. Automatism after 1945 6. Notes on Unica Zürn’s The Man of Jasmine and Other Narratives Epilogue Appendix Notes Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisShaping the Surface explores the history of modern British architecture through the lens of surface, materiality and decoration. Picking up on a trait that art historian Nikolaus Pevsner first identified as a national mania for beautiful surface quality', this book makes a new contribution to architectural history and visual culture in its detailed examination of the surfaces of British architecture from the middle of the 19th century up to the turn of the 21st century. Tracing this continuing sensibility to surface all the way through to the modern era, it explores how and why surface and materiality have featured so heavily in recent architectural tradition, examining the history of British architecture through a selection of key cultural moments and movements from Romanticism and the Arts and Crafts, to Brutalism, High-Tech, Post-Modernism, Neo-Vernacular, and the New Materiality. Embedded within the narrative is the question of whether such national characters can exist inTable of ContentsIntroduction Chapter 1: Reading the wall-surface: John Ruskin, William Butterfield, and George Edmund Street Chapter 2: ‘Think first of the walls’: Surfaces of Romance – Morris, Webb, and the Arts and Crafts Domestic Interior Chapter 3: Smooth and Rough: George Frederick Bodley and Edward Schröder Prior Chapter 4: Carving the Surface: Edwardian and Inter-War Architecture and Sculpture Chapter 5: Surfaces and Sharawaggi: Aspects of the Picturesque c 1925-1955 Chapter 6: As-Found: Surfaces of Brutalism Chapter 7: Pattern, Abstraction, Post-Modernism: Lubetkin – Pasmore – Stirling Chapter 8: High-Tech, Neo-Vernacular, New Materiality: Richard Rogers – Ralph Erskine – Caruso St John Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisMotion Illustration is a broad introduction to the emerging world of moving illustrations, written specifically for those coming from an illustration background. Bridging together illustration and animation disciplines in a new way, Adam Osgood shows that producing motion illustrations is achievable for anyone. Whether you're generating content for social media, designing GIFs, or creating fully animated videos, this book contains the tools and information you need to take your illustrated work to the next level and reach your audience in a new way. With tons of contemporary examples, sample exercises, and supporting online resources, this is perfect for illustrators wanting to make the jump to moving image. - How motion illustration fits in the context of animation and motion graphics, and how movement can help bring your images to life - Which tools and software are best to use depending on your desired outcomes - How illustrato

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Book SynopsisIn this highly original book, Susan E. Hiner looks behind fashion's seams and focuses on the women fashion producers both working- and middle-class who were key to shaping the French fashion economy. Behind the Seams thus opens up the fields of both fashion and French cultural studies and explores new ways of understanding the 19th century by demonstrating that these women's complex and contradictory roles as producers of luxury items left them exploited by an oppressive fashion system even as they served as influencers within it.In 19th-century France, fashion was a powerful and lucrative network that depended on women's expert manipulation of its raw materials. The delicate finger work of seamstresses and modistes yielded frothy dresses and ethereal hats; the subtle, persuasive rhetoric of written chronicles resulted in savvy, targeted marketing campaigns of goods and lifestyles; and the stylized visual splendour of the detailed drawing, engraving, and painting of fashion plTrade ReviewThis outstanding study, rich in newly discovered archival materials, illuminates the pathways to professionalization forged by skilled women hatmakers, journalists, and illustrators… Brilliant analyses by Hiner, one of today’s leading fashion scholars, make this beautifully illustrated book a must-read. * Heidi Brevik-Zender, University of California, Riverside, USA *Hiner’s beautifully illustrated book takes us behind the shop windows and into the workshops, salons and studios of the women who made Paris fashion famous in the nineteenth century ... A must read for everyone interested in the hidden histories of fashion. * Alison Matthews David, Toronto Metropolitan University, Canada *An original and significant contribution to our understanding of women's lives in 19th-century France. * Valerie Steele, Museum at FIT, USA *This beautifully illustrated volume explores the hidden work of women who produced or promoted female fashion in nineteenth-century France. With astute readings of text and image Hiner uncovers, in fascinating detail, a different reality beneath the frothy glamour of silk and lace. * Anne Green, King’s College London, UK *Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Acknowledgements Prologue: Behind the Seams 1. Veiling Women’s Work 2. Fashion’s Fingers: Immodest Modistes 3. Fashion’s Voices: Modistes des Lettres 4. Fashion’s Eyes: Painting in the Mirror Epilogue: Midinettes in Motion Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisElizabeth Resnick is a Professor Emerita, former chair of Communication Design at Massachusetts College of Art and Design, USA. She is a designer/design educator/curator/writer. Her publications include The Social Design Reader (Bloomsbury Visual Arts 2019); Developing Citizen Designers (Bloomsbury Academic 2016); Design for Communication: Conceptual Graphic Design Basics (2003) and Graphic Design: A Problem-Solving Approach to Visual Communication (1984).

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Book SynopsisThe Material Culture of Tableware is a fascinating and authoritative study of patterned tableware in the USA. This book undertakes a visual analysis of Johnson Brothers patterns of tableware pottery, with reference to comparable designs by other British companies, such as Spode and Adams. It examines how this practical genre reflected the aesthetic values, sense of identity and aspirations of the American consumers who purchased its products. The study also sheds light on British opinions and understandings of American culture. The book's chronological organization shows how tableware designs reflected the cultural developments of American society during the long 20th century. From status-seeking 1890s beaux-arts patterns and the nostalgic historical scenes of the 1930s, to whimsical 1960s patterns and the contemporary motifs of the 1970s, The Material Culture of Tableware tells a compelling story about who 20th-century middle-class Americans were and wanted toTrade ReviewA welcome addition to the existing body of literature ... Succeeds in expanding on the fact-based approach that such books usually boast. * Journal of Design History *Zarucchi serves up wonderful insights into the transatlantic tableware trade, which celebrates the influence of British design on American culture. * Rob Kesseler, Professor of Art, Design and Science at Central Saint Martins, UK *A rigorous survey of Staffordshire printed tableware and its export to America, across three centuries of this special cultural relationship. * Stephen Dixon, Professor of Contemporary Crafts at Manchester School of Art, UK *If you ever wondered where your dinnerware or antique souvenir plate was produced, this fascinating book is sure to inform you. * Anna Calluori Holcombe, Professor of Art at the University of Florida, USA *Table of ContentsIntroduction: The “Picture” in the Shop Window 1. Old World Style for the New World 2. Allies in War and Trade 3. American History (the British Version) 4. Commemoratives and Souvenirs 5. Prosperity and Nostalgia 6. Modern Style, New Traditions Conclusion: Endings and Beginnings References Index

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Book SynopsisAn innovative approach in the field of material culture and consumption studies, Life in the Georgian Parsonage looks at the houses, consumption and lifestyle of Church of England clergy in the long 18th century, linking moral debates and popular representations of the clergy to the material culture of their houses and their motivations as consumers. By focusing on ethical and moral dimensions of consumer practices, it challenges established readings of consumption in the long 18th century as an essentially secular process in which goods were markers of wealth, status and taste, by bringing the clergyman into the frame their lives, their habits and their homes. Cross-disciplinary in its approach, combining material culture and religious and social history and sitting at the intersection of these fields, Life in the Georgian Parsonage fills a significant gap, enhancing in important ways our knowledge of this group as a crucial but understudied set of 18th-century consume

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Book SynopsisIain Macdonald is Associate Professor of Design at Maynooth University, Ireland. He is author of Hybrid Practices in Moving Image Design (2016) and his research has been published in journals such as Visual Communication and International Journal of Art and Design Education.Paula Williams is Course Leader of Advertising and Brand Design at Ravensbourne University London, UK. She is an awardee creative director who worked as part of the BBC's and RedBee Creative's brand team and, later, as co-founder of Wonder Creative. She is a founding member of the BBC Motion Graphics steering group, responsible for creating a permanent archive at Ravensbourne University.

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Book SynopsisWhat exactly is contemporary war art in the West today? This book considers the place of contemporary war art in the 2020s, a whole generation after 9/11 and long past the War on Terror'.Exploring the role contemporary art plays within conversations around war and imperialism, the book brings together chapters from international contemporary artists, theorists and curators, alongside the voices of contemporary war artists through original edited interviews.It addresses newly emerged contexts in which war is found: not only sites of contemporary conflicts such as Ukraine, Yemen and Syria, but everywhere in western culture, from social media to culture' wars. With interviews from official war artists working in the UK, the US, and Australia, such as eX de Medici (Australia) and David Cotterrell (UK), as well as those working in post-colonial contexts, such as Baptist Coelho (India), the editors reflect on contemporary processes of memorialisation and the impact of British colonisaTrade ReviewA monumental and richly curated volume that challenges our notions of war itself, questioning how mass violence comes to count as meaningful and worthy of official memory. * Roger Stahl, author of Through the Crosshairs (2018), and Professor of Communication Studies, the University of Georgia, USA *An evocative exploration of the complexities inherent in ‘war art’. The significant inclusion of the voices of official and unofficial war-artists provides compelling insights into the tensions involved in making art that speaks to military experience and public expectation. * Margaret Baguley, Professor, School of Education, University of Southern Queensland, Australia *In an era of hybrid warfare, the role of war art is changing. This book eloquently examines these transformations, exploring the relationship of war art to colonisation, witness bearing, knowledge, “truth”, and memorialisation. * Babak Bahador, Associate Research Professor and Director of the Media and Peacebuilding Project, George Washington University, USA *Few books have had the wit or the daring to pose serious questions about the visual potency of 21st century conflict. Facing this challenge head on, this urgent, timely, and important publication examines the ambiguous, distributed and often invisible world of warfare with conviction and insight. It is compulsory reading for scholars of conflict and all those fascinated by the testimony of learned experience. * Paul Gough, Principal and Vice-Chancellor, Arts University Bournemouth, UK *Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Acknowledgements Introduction: Contemporary War Art, Kit Messham-Muir (Curtin University, Australia), Uroš Cvoro (UNSW, Australia) and Monika Lukowska-Appel (Curtin University, Australia) Part One: Colonisation, Memory and Amnesia Introduction 1. Unsettling Colonial Postamnesia: Contemporary Art, the WW1 Centenary and Beyond, Ana Carden-Coyne (Manchester University, UK) 2. Above all Else: Art as a Weapon, Lisa Slade (Art Gallery of South Australia) 3. WAR (ART): what is it good for?, Anthea Gunn and Laura Webster (Australian War Memorial) 4. Colonisation, Memory and Amnesia: Interviews with Baptist Coelho, Alana Hunt and Abdul Abdullah Part Two: War Art, Official and Unofficial Introduction 5. The War at Home, Charles Green (University of Melbourne, Australia) 6. Soldier/Artist: Negotiating the complexities of military service and critical practice, Kit Messham-Muir (Curtin University, Australia) and Uroš Cvoro (UNSW, Australia) 7. War Art, Official and Unofficial: Interviews with eX de Medici, David Cotterrell, Karen Bailey and Phillip Cheung Part Three: Knowing and Testimony Introduction 8. The Art of Testimony, Paul Lowe (University of the Arts London, UK) 9. Inconvenient Narratives: Addressing moral ambiguity in the national war museum, Kit Messham-Muir (Curtin University, Australia) 10. Knowing and Testimony: Interviews with Todd Stone, Andrew Sneddon and Joanna Bourke Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisHow do you choose a musical to direct that suits your amateur theatre group's needs?How do you run an open and fair audition process and cast a show appropriately?How do you design a rehearsal schedule to cover a large set of amateur performers?How do you work with amateur actors to achieve a level of professionalism in performance while maintaining the enjoyment?Directing Amateur Musical Theatre offers answers to all of these questions and many, many more.Demystifying the pre-production process and auditions through to rehearsals and opening night, this book offers a roadmap for success for amateur directors everywhere.Rooted in the wide-ranging experience of a working practitioner who specialises in directing amateur musical theatre across various different formats, it details ways to stage different types of musical numbers, through to blocking and staging a scene, as well as how to approach a text and expa

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Book SynopsisGiovanni Aloi is an art historian and curator, specializing in the representation of nature, history and theory of photography, and everyday objects in art. He currently lectures on modern and contemporary art at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago, USA.

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Book SynopsisAmanda Achmadi is Associate Professor in Architecture at the University of Melbourne, Australia.Paul Walker is Professor of Architecture at the University of Melbourne, Australia.Soon-Tzu Speechley is a Research Fellow in Architectural History also at the University of Melbourne, Australia.

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Book SynopsisCovering the period of 2001 to the present, Designing Retail Experience presents readers with a critical, cross-disciplinary perspective on retail design, bringing together scholarship from design, architecture, branding, cultural studies and social studies.Our retail experience has changed profoundly over the past two decades, in large part due to the impact of digital technology. While the rise of smartphones and online commerce threatened to displace bricks and mortar' stores, physical shopping has survived and, in some cases, thrived. Today, the most successful global brands design experiences that engage customers both within the physical store and in the digital realm, and within this book, D.J. Huppatz analyses how corporations design these experiences, how we interact with them, and how they align with broader social, cultural and economic changes. Nine case studies reveal how some of the largest global retail chains, including Apple, Amazon, Nike, Primark, IKEA a

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a huge range and FREE tracked UK delivery on ALL orders.

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a huge range and FREE tracked UK delivery on ALL orders.

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Book SynopsisFocusing on the design, decoration, and reception of a range of elite and middling class homes from 1750-1840, this book demonstrates that the material culture of domestic life was central to how the function of the home was experienced, expressed, and understood at a time when it took on unprecedented social and emotional significance.Examining craft production and collection, gift exchange and written description, inheritance and loss, it carefully unpacks the material processes that made the home a focus for contemporaries' social and emotional lives.The first book on its subject, Domestic Space in Britain, 1750-1840 employs methodologies from both art history and material culture studies to examine previously unpublished interiors, spaces, texts, images, and objects. Utilising extensive archival research; visual, material, and textual analysis; and histories of emotion, sociability, and materiality, it sheds light on the decoration and reception of

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Book SynopsisThis is the first collection of original essays, articles, and images from authors, activists, artists, and scholars that grapple with the explicit body and the staging of sex across multiple spaces from burlesque to drag, to sex work, to celebrity culture.Sex on Stage uncovers how gender and sexuality collide on stage in dynamic, dramatic, and thought-provoking ways. By taking a broad view of sex and the stage, this book tracks influences across the underground, marginalised, and the mainstream, from high' contemporary live art to the low' of entertainment. Across these mediums, the staging of sex pushes against decorums of respectability, instead flaunting the body to shock, to entertain, to tell stories, and to display a new kind of gender expression. The subjects and contributors included in this collection inhabit their bodiesin fact, demand the agency of the bodyin self-authored ways. Gender and sexuality here are performative, and what comes into being challenges

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Book SynopsisStacy Klein is Founder, Vision Strategist and Artistic Director Emerita of Double Edge Theatre. Founded in 1982 in Boston, Massachusetts, the ensemble moved in 1994 to a former dairy farm in Ashfield, MA, to create a sustainable artistic home which became the theatre's Center of Art, Living Culture, and Art Justice. Klein has created six performance cycles and holds a PhD in Theatre History and Criticism from Tufts University, US. She received the Doris Duke Performing Artist Award in 2013 and is a member of the Doris Duke Artists Council. Jonathan P. Eburne is Professor of Comparative Literature, English and French and Francophone Studies at Penn State University, USA. His recent books include Exploded Views: Speculative Form and the Labor of Inquiry (2025) and Outsider Theory: Intellectual Histories of Unorthodox Ideas (2018), which received the 2020 James Russell Lowell Prize from the Modern Language Association.

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Book SynopsisPenny Sparke is Professor of Design History and Director of the Modern Interiors Research Centre at Kingston University. She previously co-edited Interiors in the Era of Covid-19 (Bloomsbury 2022).

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a huge range and FREE tracked UK delivery on ALL orders.

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Book SynopsisTable of ContentsIntroduction 1 About This Book 1 Icons Used in This Book 2 Beyond the Book 2 Where to Go From Here 2 Part 1: Fast Track to Super Snaps 3 Chapter 1: Getting Up and Running 5 Preparing the Camera for Initial Use 5 Using the Touchscreen 11 Exploring External Camera Features 13 Topside controls 14 Back-of-the-body controls 16 And the rest 19 Ordering from Camera Menus 21 Looking at Display Options 23 Choosing which displays are active 23 Changing the data style 25 Decoding critical onscreen data 27 Disabling and editing displays 28 Customizing other display features 30 Disabling Pop-Ups and Help Text 34 Using Quick Control Mode 36 Familiarizing Yourself with the Lens 39 Reviewing a Few Final Setup Options 42 Setup Menu 1 43 Setup Menu 2 45 Setup Menu 5 45 A few other critical options before you go 46 Chapter 2: Choosing Basic Picture Settings 49 Choosing a Shooting Mode 50 Basic Zone shooting modes 50 Creative Zone modes (P, Tv, Av, and M) 51 Changing the Drive Mode 52 Understanding the Image Quality Setting 56 Considering resolution: L, M, S1, or S2? 56 Understanding file type 60 Adjusting the Image Quality setting 66 Setting the Photo Aspect Ratio 70 Adding Flash 71 Setting the flash to fire (or not) 74 Adding Red-Eye Reduction 79 Reviewing Advanced Flash Options 79 Adjusting flash output with Flash Exposure Compensation 79 Locking the flash exposure 82 Investigating other flash options 84 Chapter 3: Taking Great Pictures, Automatically 89 Using Scene Intelligent Auto Mode (A+) 90 Taking a picture in A+ mode 90 Exploring A+ Assist features 94 Adjusting results with Creative Assist 96 Discovering SCN (Scene) Modes 101 Accessing Scene modes 102 Reviewing the scene modes 103 Adjusting camera settings in SCN mode 110 Part 2: Taking Creative Control 111 Chapter 4: Taking Charge of Exposure 113 Introducing the Exposure Trio: Aperture, Shutter Speed, and ISO 114 Aperture affects depth of field 116 Shutter speed affects motion blur 117 ISO affects image noise 119 Doing the exposure balancing act 121 Stepping Up to Advanced Shooting Modes (P, Tv, Av, and M) 123 Monitoring Exposure Settings 124 Choosing an Exposure Metering Mode 127 Setting ISO, Aperture, and Shutter Speed 130 Controlling ISO 130 Adjusting aperture and shutter speed 134 Exploring Exposure-Correction Tools 136 Overriding autoexposure results with Exposure Compensation 136 Improving high-contrast shots with Highlight Tone Priority 142 Trying Auto Lighting Optimizer 144 Looking at a few other exposure solutions 147 Locking Autoexposure Settings 151 Bracketing Exposures Automatically 152 HDR Mode shooting 153 Using Autoexposure Bracketing (AEB) 154 Chapter 5: Controlling Focus and Depth of Field 159 Choosing Auto or Manual Focus 160 Disabling the Touch Shutter 162 Mastering the Autofocus System 164 AF Operation: Focus lock or continuous focus adjustment? 166 AF Area mode: One focus point or many? 170 Choosing the best autofocus combos 179 Adding subject- and eye-detection 180 Exploring a few other autofocus tweaks 186 Focusing Manually 186 Manipulating Depth of Field 190 Chapter 6: Mastering Color Controls 195 Understanding White Balance 196 Changing the White Balance setting 197 Creating a custom White Balance setting 202 Fine-tuning color with White Balance Shift 205 Changing the Color Space 208 Taking a Quick Look at Picture Styles 209 Increasing or Reducing Clarity 214 Chapter 7: Putting It All Together 217 Recapping Basic Picture Settings 217 Shooting Still Portraits 218 Capturing Action 223 Photographing Scenic Vistas 227 Capturing Dynamic Close-Ups 230 Chapter 8: Shooting and Viewing Movies 233 Choosing a Movie Shooting Mode 233 Reviewing a Few Video Basics 235 Recording Movies Using Default Settings 236 Recording Your First Vlog (Video Blog) 238 Setting the Broadcast Standard 241 Understanding the Movie Recording Size Setting 241 Selecting Audio Options 246 Using Movie Digital Zoom 249 Recording Vertical Movies 252 Reviewing Other Movie Options 254 Considering autofocusing options 254 Enabling Movie IS 256 Controlling exposure and color 257 Checking out a few final features 260 Playing Movies 263 Part 3: After the Shot 267 Chapter 9: Picture Playback 269 Adjusting Instant Image Review Timing 269 Viewing Pictures in Playback Mode 270 Viewing thumbnails (Index mode) 272 Jumping through images 273 Rotating still pictures 275 Zooming in for a closer view 278 Customizing the Data Display 279 Basic Information display mode 281 Shooting Information display mode 283 Making sense of histograms 286 Chapter 10: Working with Picture and Movie Files 289 Rating Photos and Movies 289 Protecting Photos and Movies 291 Deleting Files 293 Taking Advantage of Image Search 296 Preparing Pictures for Online Sharing 299 Sending Files to Your Computer 302 Part 4: The Part of Tens 305 Chapter 11: Ten More Customization Options 307 Customizing Button Functions 307 Redesigning the Quick Control Screen 308 Changing the Lens Control Ring Function 309 Customizing Auto-Power Shutoff Times 310 Resetting All Custom Functions 310 Choosing a USB Connection App 311 Creating Your Own Menu 311 Magnifying the Menu Display 312 Adding Custom Folders 312 Embedding Copyright Notices 313 Chapter 12: Ten Features to Explore on a Rainy Day 315 Trying Canon DPP 4 315 Adding Special Effects 316 Using In-Camera Editing Tools 316 Shooting a Time-Lapse Movie 317 Adding Cleaning Instructions 317 Trimming Movies 317 Creating a Slide Show 318 Shooting in Hybrid Auto Mode 318 Viewing Photos and Movies on a TV 318 Exploring an Obscure Printing Option 319 Appendix: Exploring Wireless Features 321 Index 335

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Book SynopsisDiscover the history and architectural treasures of Jersey in this fascinating exploration of 50 of its buildings and landmarks from across the centuries.

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