Fashion and textile design Books

Book SynopsisAn examination of the fabrics, garments and cloth of the Iberian Middle Ages, bringing out in particular the international context. The Medieval Iberian Peninsula, encompassing various territories which make up present-day Spain and Portugal, was an ethnic and religious melting pot, comprising Christian, Jewish and Muslim communities, each contributing to a vibrant textile economy. They were also defined and distinguished by the material culture of clothing and dress, partly dictated by religious and cultural tradition, partly imposed by rulers anxious to avoid cross-ethnic relationships considered undesirable. Nevertheless, textiles, especially magnificent Islamic silks, crossed these barriers. The essays in this volume offer the first full analysis of Iberian textiles from the period, drawing on both material remains and historical documents, supported by evidence from contemporary artwork. Chapters cover surviving textiles, many of them magnificent silks; textile industries and trade; court dress and its use as a language of power and patronage; the vast market in utilitarian textiles for lower-status clothing and furnishings; and Muslim and Jewish dress. It also considers Arabic and Jewish texts as sources of information on textiles and the Arabic garment-names which crossed into Spanish. Particular emphasis is given to the the different ethnicities of Iberia and their influences on the use and trade of garments (both precious and common-place) and textiles.Table of ContentsIntroduction María Barrigón, Naḥum Ben-Yehuda, Gale R. Owen-Crocker and Joana Sequeira I The Historical Background/Context 1 From the Five Kingdoms to the Hispanic Monarchy: Political Structures, Ideology and Historical Development in the Medieval Iberian Peninsula (1157-1504) David Nogales Rincón II Techniques, Trade and Industry 2 Textile Techniques in the Iberian Peninsula (Thirteenth to Fourteenth Centuries) María Barrigón 3 Cloth Tade in the Iberian Kingdoms during the Late Middle Ages Máximo Diago Hernando 4 Textiles in the Crown of Aragon: Production, Commerce, Consumption Germán Navarro Espinach 5 The Textile Industry in al-Andalus Adela Fábregas 6 Flax, Wool and Silk: Textile Industries in Medieval Portugal Joana Sequeira III Social Context 7 Dress as a Language: A Survey of ArabicTexts from al-Andalus Manuela Marín 8 Muslim Dress in Medieval Portugal: Textual Evidence in the Context of the Iberian Peninsula †Maria Filomena Lopes de Barros 9 Medieval Castilian Garments and their Arabic Names Dolores Serrano-Niza 10 Clothing, Furnishings and Ceremonies at the Castilian Court (c. 1214−c. 1332) María Barrigón 11 Fabrics and Attire at the Court of Navarre in the Second Half of the Fourteenth Century Merche Osés Urricelqui 12 Textile Production and Jewish Clothing in the Iberian Peninsula: Characteristics, Customs and Differences between Catalan and Other Jewish Communities Esperança Valls Pujol 13 Silk as Reflected in Medieval Iberian Jewish Literature Naḥum Ben-Yehuda 14 The Garment and the Difference: The Attire of Portuguese Jews and New Christians (Conversos) during the Thirteenth to Fifteenth centuries Susana Bastos Mateus Index of Persons and Places Index of Textile terms

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Book SynopsisWe all make choices every day about which shoes to wear, but why do we choose the shoes we do? Organised around four main types — boots, sneakers, high heels and sandals — Shoes: The Meaning of Style explores the history of shoes and how different types of footwear have come to mean different things about the people who wear them. Along the way Elizabeth Semmelhack reveals the anecdotes and scandals, successes and failures, dislikes and obsessions of the makers, wearers and observers who helped to create the movements and fashions of footwear. Beautifully illustrated throughout, Shoes is a thoroughly surprising history of an everyday item that will appeal not only to followers of fashion, but to those interested in social history and identity.'Elizabeth Semmelhack's work sheds a new and fascinating light on footwear, looking at its social significance and how it has changed over the years. It is an absolute must for those interested in the subject.' — Manolo Blahnik'This book shows us all the fashion, art, and design that allowed shoes to become a powerful cultural phenomenon. From the feet to the street to the commercial mountain peaks!' — Darryl 'dmc' McDaniels

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Book SynopsisAt the end of the Middle Ages, a group of hatmakers from the Low Countries migrated across the North Sea to London. These men brought with them new skills and technologies, unknown to English artisans, becoming the first to manufacture brimmed felts hats in England. However, though their wares were immediately popular with English consumers, from courtiers to ordinary people, they faced an economic environment in London that restricted and sometimes completely disallowed the production and retail of their goods. In the early years of the sixteenth century, the hatmakers' desire to remain independent from regulation and governance by London civic guilds led to their formation of a craft association of their own. The Hatmakers' fraternity of St James operated for about a decade, until in 1511 the royal council mandated their amalgamation with and subordination to the powerful London Haberdashers' Company. In their short period of independence, the Hatmakers' guild wrote bilingual ordinances, in English and Dutch, regulating the craft of hatmaking in London. The small parchment booklet in which they wrote the ordinances, now housed in the London Guildhall Library, contains more than a simple list of craft rules: it reveals how these Dutch craftsmen negotiated their immigrant lives in both the specifics of their artisanal practice and the broader social and linguistic realities of their daily interactions. This book, uniting historical and philological approaches, uncovers the remarkable lives and writings of these tradesmen, showing how they adapted to their new environment and reacted to the challenges they faced. It also presents a modern edition of the texts of the Hatmakers' guild book. Open Access to this volume will be available under the Creative Commons License: CC BY-NC-NDTable of ContentsPreface Part I: Study 1. Citizen Guilds, Stranger Artisans, and the Hat Trade in London, circa 1500 2. The Formation of the Hatmaker's Fraternity 3. The Hatmakers and the 1511 Agreement 4. The Manuscript 5. The Linguistic Interest of the Bilingual Ordinances Conclusion Part II: Texts Editorial Conventions The Bilingual Ordinances of the Hatmakers The Agreement with the Haberdashers The Oath of the Wardens of the Haberdashers Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisThe best new research on medieval clothing and textiles, drawing from a range of disciplines. This year's volume focuses largely on the British Isles, with papers on dress terms in the Middle English Pearl; a study of a thirteenth-century royal bride's trousseau, based on unpublished documents concerning King HenryIII's Wardrobe; an investigation into the "open surcoat" referenced in the multilingual texts of late medieval England; and, based on customs accounts, a survey of cloth exports from late medieval London and the merchants who profited from them. Commercial trading of cloth is also the subject of a study of fifteenth-century brokers' books, revealing details of types, designs, and regulation of the famous silks from Lucca, Italy. Another paper focuseson art, reconsidering the incidence of frilled veils in the Low Countries and adopting an innovative means of analysis to question the chronology, geographical diversity, and social context of this style. Robin Netherton is a professional editor and a researcher/lecturer on the interpretation of medieval European dress; Gale R. Owen-Crocker is Professor of Anglo-Saxon Culture at the University of Manchester. Contributors: Benjamin L.Wild, Isis Sturtewagen, Kimberly Jack, Mark Chambers, Eleanor Quinton, John Oldland, Christine MeekTrade ReviewThe eclectic but loosely connected contents of Volume 7 do expand our knowledge of the vagaries and importance of cloth and clothing to the medieval world; as such their appeal goes far beyond the confines of textile historians. * JOURNAL OF MEDIEVAL ARCHAEOLOGY *Table of ContentsPreface The Empress's New Clothes: A Rotulus Pannorum of Isabella, Sister of King Henry III, Bride of Emperor Frederick II - Benjamin L. Wild Unveiling Social Fashion Patterns: A Case Study of Frilled Veils in the Low Countries [1200-1500] - Isis Sturtewagen What Is the Pearl-Maiden Wearing, and Why? - Kimberly Jack "Hys surcote was ouert": The "Open Surcoat" in Late Medieval British Texts - Mark Chambers London Merchants' Cloth Exports, 1350-1500 - Eleanor Quinton and John Oldland Laboreria Sete: Design and Production of Lucchese Silks in the Late Fourteenth and Early Fifteenth Centuries - Christine Meek Recent Books of Interest Contents of Previous Volumes

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Book SynopsisThe best new research on medieval clothing and textiles, drawing from a range of disciplines. The usual wide range of approaches to garments and fabrics appears in this tenth volume. Three chapters focus on practical matters: a description of the medieval vestments surviving at Castel Sant'Elia in Italy; a survey of the spread of silk cultivation to Europe before 1300; and a documentation of medieval colour terminology for desirable cloth. Two address social significance: the practice of seizing clothing from debtors in fourteenth-century Lucca, and the transformation of the wardrobe of Margaret Tudor, daughter of King Henry VII, upon her marriage to the king of Scotland. Two delve into artistic symbolism: a consideration of female headdresses carved at St Frideswide's Priory in Oxford, and a discussion of how Anglo-Saxon artists used soft furnishings to echo emotional aspects of narratives. Meanwhile, in an exercise in historiography, there is an examination of the life of Mrs. A.G.I. Christie, author of the landmark Medieval English Embroidery. ROBIN NETHERTON is a professional editor and a researcher/lecturer on the interpretation of medieval European dress; GALE R. OWEN-CROCKER is Professor of Anglo-Saxon Culture at the University of Manchester. Contributors: Michelle L. Beer, Elizabeth Coatsworth, Valija Evalds, Christine Meek, Maureen C. Miller, Christopher J. Monk, Lisa Monnas, Rebecca Woodward WendelkenTrade ReviewThe contributors to this volume focus on special and also general aspects and demonstrate through their excellent research and clear presentation of the material how much...topics pertaining to textiles allow us to understand many different aspects of culture and society at large. * MEDIAEVISTIK *Table of ContentsBehind the Curtains, Under the Covers, Inside the Tent: Textile Items and Narrative Strategies in Anglo-Saxon Old Testament Art - Christopher J Monk Some Medieval Colour Terms for Textiles - Lisa Monnas Wefts and Worms: The Spread of Sericulture and Silk Weaving in the West before 1300 - Rebecca Woodward Wendelken The Liturgical Vestments of Castel Sant'Elia: Their Historical Significance and Current Condition - Maureen C. Miller Clothing Distrained for Debt in the Court of Merchants of Lucca in the Late Fourteenth Century - Christine Meek Sacred or Profane? The Horned Headdresses of St. Frideswide's Priory - Valija Evalds "Translating" a Queen: Material Culture and the Creation of Margaret Tudor as Queen of Scots - "A formidable undertaking": Mrs. A. G. I. Christie and English Medieval Embroidery - Elizabeth Coatsworth Recent Books of Interest

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Book SynopsisTo call Coco Chanel a fashion designer hardly captures her social and cultural significance. An iconoclastic entrepreneur, she rebelled against and manipulated gender expectations of her time. With her famous little black dress, her loose jersey sweaters belted jauntily at the waist, her svelte unadorned gowns, Chanel changed women's silhouettes, and she became known as a champion of women's freedom. Chanel, legend has it, changed not only the shape of clothing, but the narrative of women's lives. From 1913, when she first opened a hat shop in the resort town of Deauville, until her death in 1971, Chanel sold more than clothing, accessories and the phenomenally successful perfume, Chanel No. 5: she sold a myth that became as attractive for many women as her coveted outfits. Linda Simon teases apart that myth that Chanel and her public collaborated to create, to explore its contradictions: a self-proclaimed recluse who emerged as one of the most spectacular personalities of her time; a brilliant businesswoman who signed away ninety percent of her company; a genius who claimed she was nothing more than an artisan. She examines the world Chanel both reflected and shaped, setting her life and work in a broad context of women's history in France and America, from before the First World War up through the profound social changes of the late 1960s. Drawing upon rich archival sources, Simon provides a lively, clear-eyed biography of a woman whose influence and legend transcend the world of fashion.Trade Review'For those who want an up-to-date bio that's swift and savvy, there is Linda Simon's Chanel. It's a slim volume, but even here we get details we don't get elsewhere, including a full chapter on the musical "Coco," which opened on Broadway in 1969 starring Katharine Hepburn (tellingly, Chanel's first choice for the role was the much younger Hepburn: Audrey).' - Wall Street Journal

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Book SynopsisFashionable Masculinities explores the expression of masculinities through constructions of fashion, identity, style and appearance as the third decade of the new millennium begins: a contradictory and precarious moment when masculinities are defined by protests and pandemics whilst being problematized across class, ethnicity, race, gender and sexuality. Whilst a majority of men might still define themselves as ‘traditional,’ post-millennials are now talking about how they envision a future without gender boundaries and borders. Rather than being defined as a gender, masculinity has now become a style that can be worn and performed as traditional and normative codes of masculinity are modulated and manipulated. This volume includes original essays on musical pop sensation Harry Styles, rapper and producer “Puff Daddy” Sean Combs, lumbersexuals, spornosexuals, sexy daddies, and aging cool black daddies. Bringing together contributions from leading scholars, this book interrogates and challenges the meaning of masculinities and the ways that they are experienced and lived. Trade Review"It is not just queers, pimp daddies, and lumbersexuals who rendezvous on this volume; it is a whole spectrum of masculinities: blak-indigenous men, gym bros, ageing action heroes, retro hipsters, Harry, and gen-Z influencers. Masculinities are legion: fluid, complex, and poised to forever resist essentializing binaries and gender signifiers. This timely volume, written by top experts in the field, offers a thorough insight into the design, advertising, retail, and consumption of fashionable masculinities." -- José Blanco F. * Chair of Fashion, Dominican University, Illinois *"This text represents the future of men’s fashion studies. It symbolizes a pivotal turn for understanding this discipline. The contributors take us on a journey through men’s fashion from the beginning into contemporary style. This book is crucial for anyone interested in men’s appearances, fashion, and lifestyles." -- Joseph H. Hancock, II * professor, Drexel University, Philadelphia *"It is not just queers, pimp daddies, and lumbersexuals who rendezvous on this volume; it is a whole spectrum of masculinities: blak-indigenous men, gym bros, ageing action heroes, retro hipsters, Harry, and gen-Z influencers. Masculinities are legion: fluid, complex, and poised to forever resist essentializing binaries and gender signifiers. This timely volume, written by top experts in the field, offers a thorough insight into the design, advertising, retail, and consumption of fashionable masculinities." -- José Blanco F. * Chair of Fashion, Dominican University, Illinois *"This text represents the future of men’s fashion studies. It symbolizes a pivotal turn for understanding this discipline. The contributors take us on a journey through men’s fashion from the beginning into contemporary style. This book is crucial for anyone interested in men’s appearances, fashion, and lifestyles." -- Joseph H. Hancock, II * professor, Drexel University, Philadelphia *"Contributors include some of the best minds in their field ... and the book’s 16 chapters are accessible to anyone interested in gender and clothing. ...Fashionable Masculinities picks apart our understanding of manhood, showing how 'masculinity has become a style that can be worn, assumed — or abjured.'" -- Derek Guy * Vulture.com & New York Magazine *Table of ContentsForewordChristopher BrewardIntroductionVicki Karaminas, Adam Geczy, and Pamela Church Gibson1 Harry Styles: Fashion’s Gender ChangelingVicki Karaminas and Justine Taylor2 Puff Daddy’s Mogul Style: Penis in Furs or Surface Tensions?Nigel Lezama3 Daddy Cool: Aging Black Male Bodies and Embodied Stylin’Michael McMillan4 Unisex and Individuation: Contemporary Russian Fashion and Men’s (Self)-StylingVlad Strukov5 Spectacularizing the Male Body: Fashionable Physiques in the Age of InstagramJay McCauley Bowstead6 One Sexy Daddy: Desirable Dad “Bods” and the Popular Romance NovelJonathan A. Allan7 The Bodyclad Cinematic Hero: Aging, Masculinity, and Technological MediationAdam Geczy8 The Rise of the Bottom: Counterdiscourse to Challenge Heteronormativity within the Gay CommunityAndrew Reilly9 Unfashionable Goodes: The Wrong Kind of Blak and the Scandalization of Indigenous Masculinities in Settler-AustraliaBarry Judd and Nikita Vanderbyl10 The Rough and the Smooth Revisited: Masculinity, Fashion, and James Bond for a New MillenniumPamela Church Gibson11 “Coming Out” and Fitting In: The Role of Dress and Style in Fashioning Gay Men’s Identities in the New MillenniumShaun Cole12 Crip Masculinities and Everyday Dress: Intersectional Narratives of Imagination, Access, and OwnershipBen Barry13 Dandyism Revisited: From the English Gent to the SapeurOlga Vainshtein14 Beard-Grooming Brands and Products as Representations of MasculinityVictor Vey15 Gent-rifying the Stylish Neighborhood: An Examination of Retail Accommodation for the Asian Urban Male ConsumerAnne Peirson-Smith and Jennifer Craik16 A Vision of a Modern DandyJulio Mompó with Olga VainshteinAcknowledgmentsBibliographyNotes on ContributorsIndex

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Book SynopsisFashionable Masculinities explores the expression of masculinities through constructions of fashion, identity, style and appearance as the third decade of the new millennium begins: a contradictory and precarious moment when masculinities are defined by protests and pandemics whilst being problematized across class, ethnicity, race, gender and sexuality. Whilst a majority of men might still define themselves as ‘traditional,’ post-millennials are now talking about how they envision a future without gender boundaries and borders. Rather than being defined as a gender, masculinity has now become a style that can be worn and performed as traditional and normative codes of masculinity are modulated and manipulated. This volume includes original essays on musical pop sensation Harry Styles, rapper and producer “Puff Daddy” Sean Combs, lumbersexuals, spornosexuals, sexy daddies, and aging cool black daddies. Bringing together contributions from leading scholars, this book interrogates and challenges the meaning of masculinities and the ways that they are experienced and lived. Trade Review"It is not just queers, pimp daddies, and lumbersexuals who rendezvous on this volume; it is a whole spectrum of masculinities: blak-indigenous men, gym bros, ageing action heroes, retro hipsters, Harry, and gen-Z influencers. Masculinities are legion: fluid, complex, and poised to forever resist essentializing binaries and gender signifiers. This timely volume, written by top experts in the field, offers a thorough insight into the design, advertising, retail, and consumption of fashionable masculinities." -- José Blanco F. * Chair of Fashion, Dominican University, Illinois *"This text represents the future of men’s fashion studies. It symbolizes a pivotal turn for understanding this discipline. The contributors take us on a journey through men’s fashion from the beginning into contemporary style. This book is crucial for anyone interested in men’s appearances, fashion, and lifestyles." -- Joseph H. Hancock, II * professor, Drexel University, Philadelphia *"It is not just queers, pimp daddies, and lumbersexuals who rendezvous on this volume; it is a whole spectrum of masculinities: blak-indigenous men, gym bros, ageing action heroes, retro hipsters, Harry, and gen-Z influencers. Masculinities are legion: fluid, complex, and poised to forever resist essentializing binaries and gender signifiers. This timely volume, written by top experts in the field, offers a thorough insight into the design, advertising, retail, and consumption of fashionable masculinities." -- José Blanco F. * Chair of Fashion, Dominican University, Illinois *"This text represents the future of men’s fashion studies. It symbolizes a pivotal turn for understanding this discipline. The contributors take us on a journey through men’s fashion from the beginning into contemporary style. This book is crucial for anyone interested in men’s appearances, fashion, and lifestyles." -- Joseph H. Hancock, II * professor, Drexel University, Philadelphia *"Contributors include some of the best minds in their field ... and the book’s 16 chapters are accessible to anyone interested in gender and clothing. ...Fashionable Masculinities picks apart our understanding of manhood, showing how 'masculinity has become a style that can be worn, assumed — or abjured.'" -- Derek Guy * Vulture.com & New York Magazine *Table of ContentsForewordChristopher BrewardIntroductionVicki Karaminas, Adam Geczy, and Pamela Church Gibson1 Harry Styles: Fashion’s Gender ChangelingVicki Karaminas and Justine Taylor2 Puff Daddy’s Mogul Style: Penis in Furs or Surface Tensions?Nigel Lezama3 Daddy Cool: Aging Black Male Bodies and Embodied Stylin’Michael McMillan4 Unisex and Individuation: Contemporary Russian Fashion and Men’s (Self)-StylingVlad Strukov5 Spectacularizing the Male Body: Fashionable Physiques in the Age of InstagramJay McCauley Bowstead6 One Sexy Daddy: Desirable Dad “Bods” and the Popular Romance NovelJonathan A. Allan7 The Bodyclad Cinematic Hero: Aging, Masculinity, and Technological MediationAdam Geczy8 The Rise of the Bottom: Counterdiscourse to Challenge Heteronormativity within the Gay CommunityAndrew Reilly9 Unfashionable Goodes: The Wrong Kind of Blak and the Scandalization of Indigenous Masculinities in Settler-AustraliaBarry Judd and Nikita Vanderbyl10 The Rough and the Smooth Revisited: Masculinity, Fashion, and James Bond for a New MillenniumPamela Church Gibson11 “Coming Out” and Fitting In: The Role of Dress and Style in Fashioning Gay Men’s Identities in the New MillenniumShaun Cole12 Crip Masculinities and Everyday Dress: Intersectional Narratives of Imagination, Access, and OwnershipBen Barry13 Dandyism Revisited: From the English Gent to the SapeurOlga Vainshtein14 Beard-Grooming Brands and Products as Representations of MasculinityVictor Vey15 Gent-rifying the Stylish Neighborhood: An Examination of Retail Accommodation for the Asian Urban Male ConsumerAnne Peirson-Smith and Jennifer Craik16 A Vision of a Modern DandyJulio Mompó with Olga VainshteinAcknowledgmentsBibliographyNotes on ContributorsIndex

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Book SynopsisEver wonder why so many stars and featured players, male or female, in movies of Hollywood’s “Golden Age” look like they just stepped out of a beauty parlor even if the story places them in a jungle, a hospital bed, or the ancient past? All for Beauty examines how and why makeup and hairdressing evolved as crafts designed partly to maintain the white flawlessness of men and women as a value in the studio era. The book pays particular attention to the labor force, exploring the power and influence of cosmetics inventor and manufacturer Max Factor and the Westmore dynasty of makeup artists but also the contributions of others, many of them women, whose names are far less known. At the end of the complex, exciting, and at times dismaying chronicle, it is likely that readers will never again watch Hollywood films without thinking about the roles of makeup and hairdressing in creating both fictional characters and stars as emblems of an idealized and undeniably mesmerizing visual perfection.Trade Review"Adrienne McLean’s engaging All for Beauty gives us a peek under the powder, lipstick, beard, and toupee, to examine the craft and labor politics of makeup and hairdressing in the studio era. This impeccably researched and argued book is a must read for anyone interested in the Hollywood studio system, film acting, stardom, or beauty culture!" -- Mary Desjardins * author of Recycled Stars: Female Film Stardom in the Age of Television and Video *“McLean combines extensive research, keen insight, detailed analysis of stars and films, and an enjoyable way with words to give readers an important overview of the history, politics, and aesthetics of 'beauty makeup' during the glory days of Hollywood cinema. I devoured it, and so will you.” -- Sean Griffin * editor of What Dreams Were Made Of: Movie Stars of the 1940s *"All for Beauty reveals a treasure trove of research in this absorbing history of how beauty makeup and hairdressing became essential to Hollywood filmmaking and its construction of stardom. Adrienne McLean's tangible passion for her project makes this a gift to Hollywood historians." -- Karen McNally * author of The Stardom Film: Creating the Hollywood Fairy Tale *"Adrienne McLean’s engaging All for Beauty gives us a peek under the powder, lipstick, beard, and toupee, to examine the craft and labor politics of makeup and hairdressing in the studio era. This impeccably researched and argued book is a must read for anyone interested in the Hollywood studio system, film acting, stardom, or beauty culture!" -- Mary Desjardins * author of Recycled Stars: Female Film Stardom in the Age of Television and Video *“McLean combines extensive research, keen insight, detailed analysis of stars and films, and an enjoyable way with words to give readers an important overview of the history, politics, and aesthetics of 'beauty makeup' during the glory days of Hollywood cinema. I devoured it, and so will you.” -- Sean Griffin * editor of What Dreams Were Made Of: Movie Stars of the 1940s *"All for Beauty reveals a treasure trove of research in this absorbing history of how beauty makeup and hairdressing became essential to Hollywood filmmaking and its construction of stardom. Adrienne McLean's tangible passion for her project makes this a gift to Hollywood historians." -- Karen McNally * author of The Stardom Film: Creating the Hollywood Fairy Tale *Table of ContentsIntroduction: Art and Science in the Service of Loveliness 1. Makeup and Hairdressing as Studio Crafts: The Silent Period 2. The Classical Period: Craft Identity and the Labor Force 3. The Classical Period: Department Practices and the Commerce of Expertise 4. Cosmetics, Coiffures, and Characterization Epilogue: Trophy Faces Appendix Acknowledgments Notes Index

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Book SynopsisTwenty-first century fashion practice has become increasingly borderless and diverse in the digital era, calling into question the very boundaries that define fashion in the Western cultural context. Borderless Fashion Practice: Contemporary Fashion in the Metamodern Age principally engages the work of four fashion designers -- Virgil Abloh, Aitor Throup, Iris Van Herpen, and Eckhaus Latta -- whose work intersects with other creative disciplines such as art, technology, science, architecture, and graphic design. They do their work in what Vanessa Gerrie calls the metamodern age -- the time and place where the polarization between the modern and the postmodern collapses. Used as a framework to understand the current Western cultural zeitgeist, Gerrie's exploration of the work of contemporary practitioners and theorists finds blurred borders and seeks to blur them further, to the point of erasure.Trade Review"A well-balanced and highly informative read. The first book-length study of metamodernism in fashion, Borderless Fashion Practice makes a significant contribution to our understanding of one of the most important trends in the contemporary fashion industry. Especially commendable is Vanessa Gerrie’s diverse choice of designers who, though very different from each other, all illustrate the practice of 'borderless fashion.'"— Graham H. Roberts, author of Consumer Culture, Branding and Identity in the New Russia: From Five-year Plan to 4x4 "Gerrie’s concept of “borderless fashion” demonstrates how contemporary fashion practices include key aspects of our society and culture that go far beyond fashion itself."— Patrizia Calefato, author of Fashion as Cultural Translation: Signs, Images, NarrativesTable of ContentsList of Illustrations Introduction 1 On Metamodernism 2 Fashion in the Academy 3 Fashion’s Democratization 4 Collaboration and Experimentation between Fashion and Art 5 Fashion as a Concept 6 Virgil Abloh’s Democratic Fashion Practice 7 Aitor Throup’s Divergent Design 8 Iris van Herpen’s “New Couture” 9 Eckhaus Latta’s Community-Led Brand Conclusion Acknowledgments Notes Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisFrom the 1920s to the 1960s, René Hubert (1895–1976) belonged to the crème de la crème of costume designers. He designed costumes for stars such as Tallulah Bankhead, Ingrid Bergman, Marlon Brando, Yul Brynner, Marlene Dietrich, Vivien Leigh, Laurence Olivier, and Marilyn Monroe in one of her first roles. Shirley Temple danced the hula in the film Curly Top wearing a grass skirt ensemble designed by Hubert; he was especially closely associated with Gloria Swanson, who encouraged him to relocate to Los Angeles when she met him in Paris in 1924. Hubert consented, and soon found himself working with directors René Clair, Alfred Hitchcock and Otto Preminger, elevating their stars with his flair for opulent color and elegant lines. Hubert’s international reputation helped him to win commissions in his native Switzerland, most notably for the Swiss National Exhibition in 1939, for Swissair uniforms and aircraft interiors, and for various theaters and textile companies. This richly illustrated publication compiles sketches, costume photography, stage photos and film stills of Hubert’s work. Experts from both sides of the Atlantic reflect on his multifaceted oeuvre at his numerous workplaces in Switzerland, Europe and the US. Excerpts from his unpublished memoirs provide a personal view of his life and the glamor of the era.

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Book SynopsisSelbstverständlich is the German expression which, in the mind of Albert Kriemler, creative director at AKRIS, best encapsulates the aesthetic ideal that he wishes to accomplish with his fashion designs. For Kriemler, the embodiment of natural modernity is selbstverständlich, evident in the wearer and also the use and functionality of the clothes. Taking the collections as waymarks, the book encompasses the entire one hundred years of AKRIS history and its location in St. Gallen, Switzerland. The unsurpassed quality of the fabrics and craftsmanship employed in the creation of Albert Kriemler’s art-inspired designs is dedicated to the woman of today and tomorrow. She comes alive in her clothes, and with her body language and presence imbues them with identity. Jessica Iredale describes the uniqueness and forward-looking nature of AKRIS. Iwan Baan, photographer, illuminates with his photo essays the hometown and the inside world of the brand. The meticulous book design confirms the AKRIS mindset: selbstver- ständlich, naturally.

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Book SynopsisThis pioneering work traces the history and evolution of the textiles of Myanmar (Burma) made and used by the Burman (Bama) ethnic majority. Written accessibly, it covers the importance of textiles in many contexts as well as changes and innovation brought about by trade and conflict with neighboring states, British colonization, postwar isolation, and recent “open-door” policies. In addition to visiting the major textile centers, Sylvia Fraser-Lu ventured into the more remote areas of the Burman heartland to garner information on lesser-known textiles and those made by minorities. Profusely illustrated with on-site and archival photographs of weavers and heirloom textiles, as well as with diagrams and sketches, this book will be an important reference for textile scholars and art historians and for those interested in Burman culture.Trade Review"A new work on Myanmar's textile culture by Sylvia Fraser-Lu, arguably the foremost specialist on the subject, is exciting news for scholars and collectors of Southeast Asian textiles alike." * Asian Textiles *

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Book SynopsisNew Fashion Boutique Design is a practical and inspirational illustrated volume that gathers examples of some of the most exclusive boutiques and stores in the world and introduces the latest trends in shop design, an area where fashion and creativity merge to deliver a unique shopping and branding experience. From luxury designer stores and exclusive boutiques to shoe shops, this comprehensive volume provides useful insights into international retail architecture and comprehensive information on the featured projects. Fashion stores are no longer mere places that one enters simply with the intention of purchasing products. Shops have also become venues for events, stages for exciting performances, and sometimes even landmarks. Likewise, retail spaces have become statements that celebrate designer labels and their products and offer multiple opportunities to engage with the brand and its values. A range of these grand stages has been captured in New Fashion Boutique Design, which offers ideas, solutions, and different approaches to product presentation across its 240 colorful and inspiring pages.

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Book SynopsisThis title enforces in a showcase of examples with a retro-inspired flavour updated to the latest trends in the world of twenty-first century design. This book features a series of geometric elements. It explains the relationship and language between geometry and graphics using real life successful case study examples such as packaging, street signs, logos or stationery, used in a wide variety of multimedia projects. Colour throughout

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Book SynopsisOffers designers a vast collection of inspiring and innovative graphic works from the real world. This book emphasizes on fashion from t-shirt graphics, to sneakers, and baseball caps. It features trends as well as graphics that endure the test of time.

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Book SynopsisUn análisis en profundidad de las ideas clave que cambiaron la forma de vestir, desde mediados del siglo xx hasta hoy, acompañado de un estudio de las prendas de ropa más emblemáticas, cómo se llevaron, qué surgió de ellas, su trasfondo cultural, su acogida entre el público y su influencia en la moda actual. El armario moderno debe su desarrollo no solo a los diseñadores de París o de Milán, sino también a los grupos y a los movimientos que existen gracias a una apreciación compartida de la música, el deporte, a una cultura en concreto o a un determinado estilo que define una pertenencia. Estos estilos han cambiado la normativa establecida, han creado estereotipos, han conseguido expresar división social al tiempo que han unido a las personas, han comunicado, se han expandido por todo el mundo y, sobre todo, han transformado la forma de vestir de un amplio público. El concepto de moda urbana, lejos de quedar atrás, probablemente es más actual que nunca. Antaño, la expresión hacía referencia a las modas populares no dictadas por las pasarelas, una forma de vestir que expresaba la personalidad de aquellos a quienes la sociedad no consideraba modernos, sino algo mejor, con estilo. Hoy, se ha extendido la idea de que el verdadero estilo es el que se encuentra a pie de calle: las pasarelas se inspiran en él y lo reinventan en una versión más glamurosa. Dados los profundos cambios sociales y tecnológicos de inicios del siglo xxi, la proliferación de la moda urbana y la moda destinada al mercado de masas solo puede ir en aumento. Internet y la omnipresente fotografía digital hacen posible mostrar rápidamente a todo el mundo estilos que antes eran muy reducidos, locales y casi de culto. Además, desde el punto de vista tecnológico, la agilidad del muestreo, la rapidez de los sistemas de producción y la mano de obra barata permiten a las marcas del mercado de masas imitar la prenda más actual y extenderla por el mundo en cuestión de días. Así, las tendencias se desarrollan, expanden, culminan y desaparecen más rápido que nunca en la historia del sector.

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Book SynopsisThis book presents a systematic study on methods used for the creation of weave patterns for simple structures. Firstly, it explains known techniques for designing new weave patterns classified as patterns merge, motifs, patterns insertion and change of the displacement number. These are discussed as possibilities to create different textures and weaving effects supported by figures of patterns, colour view, and fabric appearance simulation. Secondly, it explains original methods for design of new weave patterns based on Boolean operations, musical scores, written texts and braille alphabet, including transformations performed, advantages/disadvantages, possible applications and designs.Table of ContentsPart 1 Classical Methods for Design of New Weave Patterns. 1. Brief history of weave patterns. 2. Elementary weaves. 3. Derivatives of the elementary weaves. 4. New weave patterns based on patterns merge. 5. New weave patterns based on motifs. 6. New weave patterns based on patterns insertion. 7. New weave patterns based on change of the displacement number. Part 2 New Methods for Design of New Weave Patterns. 8. New weave patterns based on Boolean operations. 9. New weave patterns based on musical scores. 10. New weave patterns based on text interpretations. 11. New weave patterns based on the Braille alphabet.

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Book SynopsisCostume Design: The Basics provides an overview of the fundamental principles of theatrical costume design, from pre-production through opening night.Beginning with a discussion of what is costume design, why do people wear clothes, and what is the role of the costume designer, this book makes accessible the art and practice of costume design. Peppered with interviews with working costume designers, it provides an understanding of what it means to be a costume designer and offers a strong foundation for additional study. Readers will learn: How to use clues from the script to decipher a characterâs wardrobe Methods used to sketch ideas using traditional or digital media How to discuss a concept with a team of directors, producers, and designers Strategies to use when collaborating with a professional costume shop How to maintain a healthy work/life balance Table of Contents1. Text Analysis and Research 2. Beginning the Design Process 3. Development of the Design, Sketching, and Painting a Costume Rendering 4. Preparing for Construction 5. The Build Process 6. Tech, Dress, and Opening Night

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Originally published in 1996, Stud: Architectures of Masculinity is an interdisciplinary exploration of the active role architecture plays in the construction of male identity. Architects, artists, and theorists investigate how sexuality is constituted through the organization of materials, objects, and human subjects in actual space. This collection of essays and visual projects critically analyzes the spaces that we habitually take for granted but that quietly participates in the manufacturing of maleness. Employing a variety of critical perspectives (feminism, queer theory, deconstruction, and psychoanalysis), Stud's contributors reveal how masculinity, always an unstable construct, is coded in our environment. Stud also addresses the relationship between architecture and gay male sexuality, illustrating the resourceful ways that gay men have appropriated and reordered everyday public domains, from streets to sex clubs, in the formation of gay social space.

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Book SynopsisExploring the debate over the benefits of legal protection for fashion design, this book focuses on how a combination of minimal legal protections for design, evolving social norms, digital technology, and market forces can promote innovation and creativity in a business known for its fast-paced remixing and borrowing. Focusing on the advantages and disadvantages of the main US and EU IP laws that protect fashion design in the world's biggest fashion markets, it describes how recent US case law in copyright and trademark cases has led to misaligned incentives for the industry and a lack of clear protection, while, in the EU, the CJEU's interpretation of the pan-European design rights system has created significant overlap with copyright law and risks, leading to the overprotection of design. The book proposes that creativity and innovation in fashion derive some benefit from a limited unregistered design right protection, and that cumulation with copyright protection is unhelpful. ITable of ContentsList of Figures Table of Cases Abbreviations AcknowledgmentsIntroduction 1 Introduction to the Fashion Business: Global Industry, Unclear Rules 2 Creativity, Authorship, Design, and IP Law 3 US IP Law: Vibrant Industry with Little Legal Protection? 4 European Design Rights: The Perfect Solution? 5 Harmonization and Its Opposite (Brexit) 6 Beyond Intellectual Property: Other Dimensions of Protections for Fashion Design Index

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