Fashion and textile design Books

Book SynopsisAn exploration of British male fashion of the late eighteenth century A brilliant account of a controversial moment in men's self-fashioning.Valerie Steele, director and chief curator, Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology The term macaroni was once as familiar a label as punk or hipster is today. In this handsomelyillustrated book devoted to notable eighteenth-century British male fashion, award-winning author and fashion historian Peter McNeil brings together dress, biography, and historical events with the broader visual and material culture of the late eighteenth century. For thirty years, macaroni was a highly topical word, yielding a complex set of social, sexual, and cultural associations. Pretty Gentlemen is grounded in surviving dress, archival documents, and art spanning hierarchies and genres, from scurrilous caricature to respectful portrait painting. Celebrities hailed and mocked as macaroni include politician Charles James Fox, painter Richard Cosway, freed slave Julius Soubise, and criminal parson Reverend Dodd. The style also rapidly spread to neighboring countries in cross-cultural exchange, while Horace Walpole, George III, and Queen Charlotte were active critics and observers of these foppish men.Trade Review“Entertaining and illuminating.”—Marina Warner, Times Literary Supplement, “Books of the Year 2018”“[McNeil] creates an in-depth understanding of the macaroni world. . . . Both interesting and enjoyable for an insight into aspects of late eighteenth century society.”—Alison Fairhurst, Journal of Dress History“[A] beautifully illustrated and richly informative book.”—Norma Clark, Times Literary Supplement“[A] work of real academic merit.”—Gareth Wyn Davies, World of InteriorsLong listed for the Historians of British Art Book Prize

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Book SynopsisFeaturing detailed scenes of court pageantry and life-size portraits of members of the French Valois dynasty woven in wool, silk, and precious metal-wrapped threads, the Valois Tapestries are one of the most extravagant sets of hangings produced in the 16th century. The precise circumstances surrounding the tapestries' commission and their arrival at the Medici court in Florence, as well as the significance of the specific scenes depicted, however, have eluded scholars for years. Presenting new research into the political maneuvering of the Valois and Medici courts and providing extensive physical analysis gathered during a recent cleaning of the tapestries, this volume offers brand new insight into why these magnificent works were made and what they represent. Distributed for the Cleveland Museum of ArtExhibition Schedule:Cleveland Museum of Art (11/18/1801/21/19)

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Book SynopsisTrade Review“As a study in how the clash of cultures, art and commerce, and words and pictures can result in innovation and beauty, Modern Look is a timely book on a golden age.”—Theo Inglis, Communication Arts

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Book SynopsisA richly illustrated glimpse into the magnificent collection of seventeenth-century men’s dress from the Danish kings’ wardrobes

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Book SynopsisFabrics provides designers with the information needed to make their fabric specifications easy, informed, and appropriate to the job at hand, considering aesthetics, performance, application, and green design.Trade Review"A worthy addition to an interior designer’s or decorator’s library…will intrigue the reader who wants to learn about [the] field." -- Julie Dillon - Houses: The Residential Architecture Magazine"Essential for anyone interested in cloth, particularly those who work with it professionally." -- Sydney Morning Herald

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Book SynopsisBefore he became the father of cinematic special effects, George Melies (1861-1938) was a maker of deluxe French footwear, an illusionist, and a caricaturist. Proceeding from these beginnings, Melies Boots traces the full trajectory of Georges Melies’ career during the late-nineteenth and early-twentieth centuries.Trade Review“MÉliÈs Boots is an extremely compelling and remarkably researched contribution to cinema studies, and it brings fresh insight to the figure of Georges MÉliÈs by situating his work deeply within the cultural and media archaeological context of his time.” —Colin Williamson, Rutgers UniversityTable of Contents List of Figures Acknowledgments Introduction: Materializing Méliès Notes to Introduction Chapter 1: Artisanal Manufacturing Notes to Chapter 1 Chapter 2: IncohÉrent Infrastructure, Incohérent Fashion Notes to Chapter 2 Chapter 3: Stretching the Caricatural Aesthetic Notes to Chapter 3 Chapter 4: Modern Laughter and the Genre Méliès Notes to Chapter 4 Chapter 5: The New Profession of the Cinéaste Notes to Chapter 5 Conclusion: Toy Stories Notes to Conclusion

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Book SynopsisFashion deals with a world of illusion on the one hand and a hard-bitten, multifaceted and multi-billion pound industry on the other. This book shows how fashion operates on various levels: the mystery of haute couture is explained, the complexities of ready to wear are simplified, and the power of mass production assessed and evaluated.Trade ReviewIt is thoroughly researched, attractively presented and appealing in its unpretenious style. It is accessible, pertinent to different levels of expertise, and provides a distinctive insight to the fashion industry. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, vol 10, no 1; 2006Table of ContentsIntroduction. Couture. Ready-to-wear. Mass production. Tailoring. Menswear. Dressmaking. Millinery and accessories. The designers. Distribution. Fashion organisation and calendar. Considerations for the future. Appendices. Glossary. Bibliography. Useful addresses and websites

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Book SynopsisA richly illustrated study of the dress and adornment traditions of the Indigenous peoples of North America's western subarctic.Trade Review"There is nothing remotely like this authoritative and definitive work. The combination of detailed garment research with historical and ethnographic data informed by community-based research, makes Women's Work, Women's Art a model which surpasses anything to date. It will be a standard reference work for curators, material culture and native studies scholars, and members of Athapaskan communities." Laura Peers, School of Anthropology and Museum Ethnography, University of Oxford "There are few publications on Northern Athapaskan clothing and none that cover the subject in such breadth and detail, showcasing the skills and knowledge of the makers - the women. Women's Work, Women's Art will make these museum collections more access "Comprehensive but straightforward, Women's Work, Women's Art is an exciting resource for a range of scholars and an interesting, engaging read for the layperson." Worn Through

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Book SynopsisIn the fourteenth century, garish ornaments, bright colors, gilt, and military effects helped usher in the age of fashion in Italy. Over a short span of years important matters began to turn on the cut of a sleeve. Fashion influenced consumption and provided a stimulus that drove demand for goods and turned wealthy townspeople into enthusiastic consumers. Making wise decisions about the alarmingly expensive goods that composed a fashionable wardrobe became a matter of pressing concern, especially when the market caught on and became awash in cheaper editions of luxury wares.Focusing on the luxury trade in fashionable wear and accessories in Venice, Florence, and other towns in Italy, Gilding the Market investigates a major shift in patterns of consumption at the height of medieval prosperity, which, more remarkably, continued through the subsequent era of plague, return of plague, and increased warfare. A fine sensitivity to the demands of le pompe, that is, the public Trade Review"Gilding the Market effectively links the material and cultural, showing that fashionable clothing is not simply a matter of visual discourse and self-representation but a primary item of exchange." * Journal of Interdisciplinary History *"This wide-ranging book on the late medieval marketplace for luxury goods by a historian of enormous erudition and experience brings a lifetime of research to bear on the world of luxury consumption and . . . the advent of 'fashion.'" * American Historical Review *"An ambitious book that leads . . . into one of the most complex issues in the study of late medieval and early Renaissance Italy: the consumerist growth of a strong taste for and purchase, by those wealthy enough, of fashionable clothes and artifacts." * Speculum *Table of ContentsChapter 1. Introduction Chapter 2. Desirable Wares Chapter 3. Gravitas and Consumption Chapter 4. Curbing Women's Excesses Chapter 5. Costs of Luxuries Chapter 6. Shops and Trades Chapter 7. Marketmakers Chapter 8. Conclusion Notes Bibliography Index Acknowledgments

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Book SynopsisHistorical Style connects the birth of eighteenth-century British consumer society to the rise of historical self-consciousness. Prior to the eighteenth century, British style was slow to change and followed the cultural and economic imperatives of monarchical regimes. By the 1750s, however, a growing fashion press extolled, in writing and illustration, the new phenomenon of periodized fashion trends. As fashion fads came in and out of style, and as fashion texts circulated and obsolesced, Britons were forced to confront the material persistence of out-of-date fashions. Timothy Campbell argues that these fashion texts and objects shaped British perception of time and history by producing new curiosity about the very recent past, as well as a new self-consciousness about the means by which the past could be understood.In a panoptic sweep, Historical Style brings together art history, philosophy, and literary history to portray an era increasingly aware of itself. Trade Review"Our ideas of history are dependent upon lived temporalities shaped by commercial and material forces, and I have never seen this truth so solidly, aptly, and compellingly explicated as in Timothy Campbell's book." * Erin Mackie, Syracuse University *"Original, witty, and very well-researched, Historical Style deftly argues that eighteenth-century British culture became self-consciously periodized through the new phenomenon of fashion trends." * Cynthia Wall, University of Virginia *Table of ContentsList of Abbreviations Introduction. Fashions Past PART I. THE DRESS OF THE YEAR Chapter 1. Modern Fashion and Comparative Contemporaneity Chapter 2. Portrait Historicism and the Dress of the Times PART II. THE FICTIONS OF SERIAL HISTORY Chapter 3. Hume, Historical Succession, and the Dress of Rousseau Chapter 4. Historical Novelty and Serial Form Chapter 5. Walter Scott's Fashion Systems Chapter 6. William Godwin and the Objects of Historical Fiction Coda Notes Bibliography Index Acknowledgments

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Book SynopsisIllustrated with photographs, drawings, and cartoons gathered from popular culture, this provocative book demonstrates that the veil, the garment known in Islamic cultures as the hijab, holds within its folds a semantic versatility that goes far beyond current clichés and homogenous representations.

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Book SynopsisReina Lewis analyzes Muslim modest clothing as fashion and shows how young Muslim women (with a focus on Britain, North America, and Turkey) are part of an emergent transnational youth subculture who use fashion to negotiate religion, identity, ethnicity, and mainstream consumer culture.Trade Review"Muslim Fashion is a thorough and thoughtful study of what it means to be a hijabi in a time and place where religion, politics, ethnicity, class, gender, generation and nationality meet and potentially clash. ... In treating hijab as fashion, Lewis counters the use of images of veiled women as 'evidence' that Muslims and Islam are incompatible with Western modernity and offers another, richer view of women in veils." -- Bel Jacobs"Lewis's book cheerfully celebrates the confidence of these Muslim women, Peeking into the sanctuary of their subculture and carefully documenting their experience. It is an intelligent and serious study, abstemiously refraining from inferences, criticisms or generalizations, and yet unmistakably polemical too in the quiet case it makes against the idea of an archaic Islam conventionally positioned as antithetical to modernity." -- Shahidha Bari * TLS *"Intersecting issues of religion, youth culture and class, Lewis presents a fascinating picture of what Islamic fashion looks like in Muslim minority countries such as France, the United States and the United Kingdom.... Lewis’s book is grounded in her personal experience, archival work of many years and some very rich ethnography making this a key text on Muslim fashion for many years to come." -- Rohit K Dasgupta * Clothing Cultures * "Written by a pioneering scholar of gender and Orientalism, Muslim Fashion is one of the most important recent publications in the growing field of Islamic fashion studies. Analyzing the consumption practices of practicing Muslims in Turkey and diasporic communities in Europe, the book would also be of interest for scholars of Europe and the Middle East. With its interdisciplinary approach, rigorous methodology, and elaborate theoretical framework, Muslim Fashion asks new questions about the constitution of Muslim subjectivities and the everyday experience of Islam." -- Rüstem Ertug Altinay * Europe Now *"With Muslim Fashion, Reina Lewis makes a rich and welcome contribution to a growing body of interdisciplinary scholarship that explores religiously motivated modes of dressing as evolving, complex and dynamic acts intertwining individual choice, fashion trends and conceptions of piety. . . . Ambitious in both theoretical and topical scope, Muslim Fashion deftly illuminates the multiplicity of approaches to pious dress that constitute Muslim modernities." -- Ann Marie Leshkowich * International Journal of Fashion Studies *"The book is a significant contribution to ethnic, gender, cultural, Middle East and migration studies. It will greatly benefit graduate and undergraduate college students in these fields. It is also an attractive topic to general readers who want to learn about Muslim fashion away from the dominant polarized politics about Islam and Muslims in the West." -- Enaya H. Othman * Ethnic and Racial Studies *"Through a rich ethnography of Muslim consumers, fashion professionals and media operatives – across a range of entwined religious and secular fashionscapes – Lewis shows that the liminality of a new generation of Muslims is, rather, not a type of crisis, but instead a unique source of competence and cultural capital. . . . Through this invaluable and detailed study, Lewis furthermore contributes to the growing wealth of literature that sympathetically considers the everyday practise and expression of religion through material culture. Muslim Fashion synthesises many relevant cross-disciplinary concerns and will no doubt be widely recognised as a landmark publication." -- Carl Morris * Religion, State and Society *Table of ContentsAcknowledgments ix Introduction. Veils and Sales 1 1. From Multiculture to Multifaith: Consumer Culture and the Organization of Rights and Resources 35 2. The Commercialization of Islamic Dress: Selling and Marketing Tessettür in Turkey and Beyond 69 3. Muslim Lifestyle Magazines: A New Mediascape 109 4. Taste and Distinction: The Politics of Style 163 5. Hijabi Shop Workers in Britain: Muslim Style Knowledge as Fashion Capital? 199 6. Modesty Online: Commerce and Commentary on the Net 237 7. Commodification and Community 287 Conclusion 317 Notes 323 References 331 Index 365

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Book SynopsisMinh-ha T. Pham examines the phenomenal rise and influence of elite Asian personal style superbloggers such as Susie Bubble and Bryanboy. Situating blogging within the historical context of gendered racial fashion work and global consumer capitalism, Pham analyzes how race, class, gender, and sexuality affect bloggers' work, opportunities, and rewards.Trade Review"[A] deeply engaging and sophisticated discussion of the race and gender dynamics that affect Asian fashion labor." -- Christine Wu * Japan Times *"Pham’s book is sharp, punchy and eminently readable. It is full of shrewd visual and textual analysis of the content of blogs and puts forward a muchneeded critique of the kinds of critiques that bloggers themselves tend to have launched at them. . . . I thoroughly enjoyed reading Asians Wear Clothes on the Internet, and I would recommend it to any scholar interested in blogging, social media, personal style, creative labour or race and gender politics in fashion today." -- Brent Luvaas * International Journal of Fashion Studies *"With Asians Wear Clothes on the Internet, Pham makes a significant contribution to scholarship on fashion, race, gender, and online media by eloquently demonstrating the ambivalent outcomes when Asianness becomes productive of economic and cultural value. While Asian superbloggers serve as evidence that the previously marginalized can gain entry into fashion’s highest status venues, Pham deftly shows that behind the veneer of this apparent democratization lies an unpaid or underpaid, racialized labor force." -- Ann Marie Leshkowich * Media Industries *"Asians Wear Clothes on the Internet makes an important scholarly contribution not only to the field of media and cultural studies but to ethnic, gender, and queer studies as well. In this sense, it is an excellent example of intersectional, feminist digital culture research that continues to be needed in order to better understand how the visibilities and movement of embodied identities work across digital culture." -- Jessalynn Keller * Cinema Journal *"Pham’s is one of the first of its kind in offering a critical investigation of the personal-style blogosphere.... Though the work of creating selfies and writing blog entries about clothing is often considered more within the realm of leisure than labor, Pham convincingly argues that the work of being a superblogger is highly labor intensive." -- Anita Mannur * American Quarterly *"Asians Wear Clothes on the Internet is a compelling book to read, deserving critical acclaim for its originality and insightful contribution to digital fashion media studies concerning the dynamic relations of race, gender, class, and labor. It is good for researchers who are interested in, and classes where the focus is on, fashion studies; digital media; and critical cultural analysis of race, gender, and class." -- Sara Liao * Journal of Asian Studies *"This is an ambitious project, but Pham is up to the task. Pham’s attention to the blog as both a cultural form and a commercial project is supported with textual and visual evidence garnered from blogs themselves. In doing so, she not only makes her argument, she demonstrates a model of digital analysis that is both traditional and novel at the same time. After reading this book, it will be hard to argue against the merits of 'blog studies.'” -- Erin M. Arizzi * Feminist Media Studies *Table of ContentsAcknowledgments vii Introduction. Asian Personal Style Superbloggers and the Material Conditions and Contexts of Asian Fashion Work 1 1. The Taste and Aftertaste for Asian Superbloggers 41 2. Style Stories, Written Tastes, and the Work of Self-Composure 81 3. "So Many and All the Same" (but Not Quite): Outfit Photos and the Codes of Asian Eliteness 105 4. The Racial and Gendered Job Performances of Fashion Blogger Poses 129 5. Invisible Labor and Racial Visibilities in Outfit Posts 167 Coda. All in the Eyes 193 Notes 201 Bibliography 219 Index 247

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Book SynopsisThis collection explores how the body became a touchstone for late antique religious practice and imagination. When we read the stories and testimonies of late ancient Christians, what different types of bodies stand before us? How do we understand the range of bodily experiencessolitary and social, private and publicthat clothed ancient Christians? How can bodily experience help us explore matters of gender, religious identity, class, and ethnicity? The Garb of Being investigates these questions through stories from the Eastern Christian world of antiquity: monks and martyrs, families and congregations, and textual bodies.Contributors include S. Abrams Rebillard, T. Arentzen, S. P. Brock, R. S. Falcasantos , C. M. Furey, S. H. Griffith, R. Krawiec, B. McNary-Zak, J.-N. Mellon Saint-Laurent, C. T. Schroeder, A. P. Urbano, F. M. YoungTable of ContentsList of Abbreviations | xi Introduction. Dangling Bodies, Robes of Glory: The Garb of Embodiment in Ancient Christianity Georgia Frank, Susan R. Holman, and Andrew S. Jacobs | 1 Part I: Making Bodies Body and Soul: Union in Creation, Reunion at Resurrection Frances Young | 15 Jesus’s Dazzling Garments: Origen’s Exegesis of the Transfiguration in the Commentary on Matthew Arthur P. Urbano | 35 Conversing with Clothes: Germanos and Mary’s Belt Thomas Arentzen | 57 Part II: Performing Bodies “Denominationalism” in Fourth-Century Syria: Readings in Saint Ephraem’s Hymns against Heresies, Madrāshê 22–24 Sidney H. Griffith | 79 A School for the Soul: John Chrysostom on Mimēsis and the Force of Ritual Habit Rebecca Stephens Falcasantos | 101 A Question of Character: The “Labor of Composition” as “Preventative Medicine” in Theodoret of Cyrrhus’s Religious History Rebecca Krawiec | 124 “I Want to Be Alone”: Ascetic Celebrity and the Splendid Isolation of Simeon Stylites Andrew S. Jacobs | 145 Crowds and Collective Affect in Romanos’s Biblical Retellings Georgia Frank | 169 Christian Legend in Medieval Iraq: Siblings, Sacrifice, and Sanctity in Behnam and Sarah Jeanne-Nicole Mellon Saint-Laurent | 191 Part III: Scripting Bodies Five Women Martyrs: From Persia to Crete Sebastian Brock | 221 Gregory of Nazianzus’s Poetic Ascetic Aesthetic Suzanne Abrams Rebillard | 234 Eclipsed in Exile: In Defense of Athanasius and the Ethiopians Bernadette McNary-Zak | 263 Sacred Bonds: Religion, Relationships, and the Art of Pedagogy Constance M. Furey | 276 “And Yet the Books”: Patristics in the Footnotes Susan R. Holman | 294 Cultural Heritage Preservation and Canon Formation: What Syriac and Coptic Can Teach Usabout the Historiography of the Digital Humanities Caroline T. Schroeder | 318 Bibliography | 347 List of Contributors | 391 Index | 397

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Book SynopsisInvestigates the origin and effects of a textile-mediated visual culture that developed at the heart of the Silk Road between the seventh and fourteenth centuries. Gasparini's history offers critical perspectives that extend far beyond an outmoded notion of Silk Road studies.Trade ReviewIn deploying a transcultural framework, Mariachiara Gasparini demonstrates the ways in which the material can become more open to multiple meanings and mirror its multifaceted uses with a more flexible, interpretive framework. In her analysis of the material forms of silk in China, the Himalayan Kingdoms including Ladakh, and its constitution in Italy, it may be too soon to say whether Gasparini has single-handedly engineered a field-changing, barrier-breaking analysis of the stuff that brought the "Silk Road" trading routes into existence, but we can state with certainty that she has given researchers tools to fabricate concrete arguments for further study.

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Book Synopsis

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Book Synopsis

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Book SynopsisWinner of the Best Books on Devon's History: Academic Award from the Devon History SocietyA richly illustrated exploration of the national and international importance of the early modern Exeter cloth trade.This book reproduces a newly discovered manuscript detailing the exports of Claude Passavant, a Swiss émigré merchant. Passavant's dispatch book comprises the most extensive surviving collection of Devon cloth with 2,475 surviving cloth samples. Thirteen chapters discuss the local and wider contexts of eighteenth-century cloth making. This study explores the quality, range, and vibrancy of cloth that lead to Exeter becoming an internationally renowned centre for the manufacture and trade of woollen cloth.Trade Reviewa well rounded detailed study of various aspects of the wool trade and cloth production in Exeter and surrounding area, based on a variety of sources, placing Exeter and Devon in comparison to other English textile centres of the period like Norfolk or Manchester. * The Journal of Dress History *Taken as a whole, this handsomely-produced and very readable volume adds significantly to what was previously known about Devon clothmaking and can serve as a comprehensive handbook for those coming to the subject for the first time. -- Local HistorianTable of ContentsIntroduction CLAUDE PASSAVANT AND EXETER Claude Passavant Exeter in the 1760s CLOTH MANUFACTURE Claude Passavant's dispatch book: an analysis Exeter's cloth merchants and industry in the 1760s The Incorporation of Fullers, Weavers and Shearmen, in 1764 Exeter's fulling mills in the mid eighteenth century The archaeology of the cloth industry in Exeter Cloth dyes and dyeing in the eighteenth century An outline history of the Exeter dyers Exeter lead cloth merchants' seals - a provisional listing Tillet blocks CLOTH Tiverton's woollen cloth trade in the 1760s Sandfords PATTERN BOOKS Westcountry pattern books Norwich pattern books, pattern cards and patterns Folding pattern cards: marketing Lancashire fustians in the 1780s THE DISPATCH BOOK Appendix 1: The Topsham bale book, 1763 Appendix 2: The cloth account of John Hern of Ashburton, 1771-76 Appendix 3: Letter of Claude Passavant to Henry Pelham, 16 October 1752 Appendix 4: Letter of John Siper to Thomas Windeatt, 5 July 1756 Appendix 5: Four Devon dye recipes, c.1710

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Book SynopsisThis richly illustrated catalogue, the fourth in a series sponsored by the Andrew W. Mellon Foundation, features essays on the subject of costume and a substantial bibliography on the topic of costumes in art and an exhibition checklist.

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Book SynopsisAlison Lowe is a leading expert on fashion brand development and growth. Based in London, UK, she founded and leads a fashion incubator agency and an online support platform, Start Your Own Fashion Label. She develops and teaches courses at the London College of Fashion, University of East London, University of the Arts London and Emlyon Business School. A regular international conference speaker, she also consults for brands across the globe, is a judge for the Great British Entrepreneur Awards and has been awarded an MBE for Services to the Fashion Industry.Trade Review"Addresses the changes of sustainability and digitalization brilliantly, highlighting some amazing examples. A wonderful guide for students with entrepreneurial ambitions." * Professor José Teunissen, Dean at London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London *"Alison brings to the table an unbeatable combination of years of experience and an accessible writing style which addresses fashion's issues with admirable directness." * Maurice Mullen, Head of Fashion & Luxury Goods, Evening Standard *"Provides a fresh contemporary approach to the subject of fashion business, fusing both core academic theory and practical tips." * Alexandra Hill, Course Leader, Norwich University of the Arts *"Provides a thorough introduction to all aspects of fashion management while maintaining a clear strategic focus" * Sennait Ghebreab, Programme Leader Business BA Courses at Istituto Marangoni London *"A must-read primer for anyone considering fashion business and management. Read this book and learn from one of the best." * Kent Le, Programme Leader MA International Fashion Business, University of East London and Adjunct Professor for Business of Fashion, Fordham University *"A crucial textbook for fashion studies and an important reference point for those working in fashion branding, fashion businesses and their related industries." * Ram Shergill, Editor in Chief, The Protagonist Magazine *Table of Contents Chapter - 01: Putting the customer first; Chapter - 02: Competitive advantage; Chapter - 03: Purpose, planet, people; Chapter - 04: Business foundations for fashion brands; Chapter - 05: Product design and development; Chapter - 06: Supply chain management; Chapter - 07: Brand storytelling and management; Chapter - 08: Innovation and technology; Chapter - 09: Driving sales; Chapter - 10: Marketing and promotion; Chapter - 11: Finance; Chapter - 12: Future entrepreneurial advantage for fashion brands; Chapter - 13: Glossary;

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Book SynopsisMaterial Strategies brings together scholars from different disciplines to explore what dress and textiles can tell us about gender history. * Broad in scope -- covers women, men, social groupings and nations from the sixteenth to the twentieth century.Trade Review"This stands out as a vaulable summation of the many approaches which, in shorthand, can be described as 'the new dress history'." Valerie Cummings "This book is a significant, interdisciplinary consideration of the gendered characteristics of clothing that provides new conceptual frameworks and methodologies for the interpretation of attire across tiem and culture. Material Strategies should further move clothing and fashion scholarship out of its ghetto and into the mainstream. Textile HistoryTable of ContentsIntroduction: Material Strategies Engendered: Barbara Burman (University of Southampton) and Carole Turbin (SUNY/Empire State College). Part I: Dress, Textiles and Social Transitions in Pre-industrial Europe:. 1. Fashion, Time and the Consumption of a Renaissance Man in Germany: The Costume Book of Matthaus Schwarz of Augsburg, 1496-1564: Gabriele Mentges (University of Dortmund). 2. Reflections on Gender and Status Distinction: An Analysis of the Liturgical Textiles Recorded in Mid-Sixteenth-Century London: Maria Hayward (University of Southampton). Part II: Identity and Eroticism, Consumption and Production, from the Early Seventeenth to the Mid-Twentieth Century:. 1. Following Suit: Men, Masculinity and Gendered Practices in the Clothing Trade in Leeds, England, 1890-1940: Katrina Honeyman (University of Leeds). 2. Pocketing the Difference: Gender and Pockets in Nineteenth-Century Britain: Barbara Burman (University of Southampton). 3. Fashioning the American Man: The Arrow Collar Man, 1907-1931: Carole Turbin. 4. Erotic Modesty: (ad)dressing Female Sexuality and Propriety in Open and Closed Drawers, USA, 1800-1930: Jill Fields (California State University, Fresno). Part III: Fashion Strategies for Reconfiguring Nations and Social Groups in the Early Twentieth Century:. 1. ‘De-Humanised Females and Amzonians’: British Wartime Fashion and its Representation in Home Chat, 1914-1918: Cheryl Buckley (University of Northumbria). 2. Fashion, the Politics of Style and National Identity in Pre-Fascist and Fascist Italy: Eugenia Paulicelli (City University of New York). 3. Style and Subversion: Postwar Poses and the Neo-Edwardian Suit in Mid-Twentieth-Century Britain: Christopher Breward (London College of Fashion). 4. ‘Anti-Mini Militants Meet Modern Misses’: Urban Style, Gender and the Politics of ‘National Culture’ in 1960s Dar es Salaam, Tanzania: Andrew M. Ivaska (University of Michigan). 5. Dressing for Leadership in China: Wives and Husbands in an Age of Revolutions (1911-1976): Verity Wilson (Victoria and Albert Museum, London).

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Book SynopsisThis comprehensive source book sets out over 1750 working drawings of garments, accessories and their details, which can be used for reference while designing. Each drawing, which may be a historical, classical, ethnic or inspirational example, is correctly named and fully described in the extensive glossary, thus providing the visual information that is lacking from fashion dictionaries. In addition, a range of useful fashion poses is provided for women, men and children (from birth to teenage) with instructions on how these may be developed by readers and used as templates for their own illustrations. All the illustrations are copyright-free, enabling readers to use and adapt as they wish. All the illustrations have been redrawn traditionally then subjected to contemporary computer graphics techniques with a view to clearly communicating shape and detail. As much fabric representation' as possible has been illustrated, on relevantTable of ContentsFIGURES: Children - Newborn 0-3 months; 3-9 months; 10-12 months; 12-14 months; 14-20 months; 20-24 months; 2-2½ years; 2½-4 years; 5-6 years; 7-9 years; 10-11 years; 12-14 years; Women; Men; CHILDRENSWEAR: Girls/Boyswear; MENS/WOMENSWEAR: Outerwear; Jackets; Waistcoats; Trousers; Suits; Skirts; Swimwear; Dresses; Shirts; Tops; Loungewear; Nightwear; Knitwear; Underwear; ACCESSORIES: Bags; Gloves; Hats; Belts; Neckwear; Boots; Shoes; Sports shoe; Hosiery; PRODUCTION: Seams/finishes; Fullness/pockets; Fastenings; CONSTRUCTION: Sleeves; Cuffs; Collars; Necklines; Waist/hemlines; PROPORTION: Children's; Men's and Women's; FASHION ILLUSTRATION; GLOSSARY

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Book SynopsisThis textbook describes the structure of the industry in the UK and globally, and explains the current problems and strategic responses to global shifts in production. The new edition has been updated throughout to include the lastest available data, and takes account of the acceleration of the decline of manufacturing in the UK since 2002, the rapid expansion of production in China, and the final demise of the system of quota control. Essential subject for students at undergraduate and postgraduate levels. An expert guide to a bewilderingly complex industry. No competition. Addresses global issues, the opportunities and threats, with strategies for survival. Author is Editor of International Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management. Table of ContentsWhat is the apparel industry?. The apparel industry in the UK: current size and structure. The apparel sector in the global economy. The role of labour costs and theories of development. The facts: UK apparel trade: the current trade position. The concept of globalisation. The response to global shift: strategic imperatives and the diamond framework. Issues in offshore production strategies. The role of trade barriers and exchange rate fluctuations in the global apparel market. The economics of the UK apparel market. Emerging markets and the globalisation of the UK apparel industry. Conclusions in the light of the textile industry policy of the EU and the future growth of China

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Book SynopsisFashion and clothing design students must have a general understanding of garment assembly techniques if they hope to have their design ideas realized.Table of ContentsPreface vii Acknowledgements ix 1 Introduction 1 Getting Started 2 Getting to Know the Parts of the Sewing Machine 3 2 Stitch & Seam Types 5 Stitch Types 8 Seam Types 17 3 Attachments for the Sewing Machine 25 Edge Guide 25 Presser Foot 27 Hemming Foot 28 Zipper Foot 29 Folders 30 4 Needles & Thread 31 Parts of the Needle 31 Thread 34 Thread Consumption 36 Thread Sizing 37 5 Interlining 41 Fusing Equipment 42 Applying Interlining 43 6 Sewing Darts 47 7 Front Edge Fastenings 51 8 Inserting Zip Fastenings 59 Invisible Zip Insertion 60 Concealed or Standard Zip with Guard Insertion 64 9 Attaching Waistbands 71 Standard ‘Run On and Close Down’ Waistband Application 71 Elasticated Waistband 76 10 Assembling & Attaching Pockets 79 Patch Pocket 80 Shaped Pockets 84 Jetted Pocket 88 Welt Pocket 94 11 Sleeve Opening Construction 101 12 Assembling & Attaching Cuffs 109 Two Piece Cuff 110 One Piece Cuff 113 Attaching the Cuff to the Sleeve 115 13 Assembling & Attaching Collars 117 Collar Parts 117 Stand Collar (Frequently Known as the Mandarin Collar) 118 Attaching the Stand Collar 121 Flat Collar (Also Known as the Peter Pan Collar) 123 Attaching the Flat Collar 125 One-Piece Shirt Collar 127 Attaching the Shirt Collar 130 14 Sewing Problems 133 Stitch Formation Problems 133 Fabric Distortion – Pucker 135 Damage to the Fabric 137 Garment Assembly Terms Glossary 141 Author 143 Index 145

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Book SynopsisShoes reveal the hopes, dreams, and disappointments of the early Americans who wore them. Honorable Mention of the Historic New England Book Prize by Historic New EnglandIn Treasures Afoot, Kimberly S. Alexander introduces readers to the history of the Georgian shoe. Presenting a series of stories that reveal how shoes were made, sold, and worn during the long eighteenth century, Alexander traces the fortunes and misfortunes of wearers as their footwear was altered to accommodate poor health, flagging finances, and changing styles. She explores the lives and letters of clever apprentices, skilled cordwainers, wealthy merchants, and elegant brides, taking readers on a colorful journey from bustling London streets into ship cargo holds, New England shops, and, ultimately, to the homes of eager consumers. We trek to the rugged Maine frontier in the 1740s, where an aspiring lady promenades in her London-made silk brocade pumps; sail to London in 1765 to listen in as Benjamin Franklin andTrade ReviewAlexander spent eight years researching [Treasures Afoot], which examines eighteenth-century shoes from thirty different collections, plus thousands of original letters, inventories and other manuscripts. Each shoe or pair of shoes is the catalyst for a story of how it was made, sold and worn, told in astonishing depth and detail.—Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell, Ornament MagazineVery engagingly written . . . Shoe history is a very popular field, and [Treasures Afoot] deserves to be widely read, as it is an excellent contribution to the histories of material culture and transatlantic consumerism.—Matthew McCormack, University of Northampton, Journal for Eighteenth-Century StudiesThis impeccably researched, written and illustrated book is enough on its own as a study of surviving luxury objects from almost a century of American history.—Stella Tillyard, Times Literary Supplement[Treasures Afoot] is well written and easy to read . . . an interesting addition to the very limited number of works specifically about eighteenth century shoes.—Alison Fairhurst, The Journal of Dress HistoryThis is a book that will intrigue students and scholars of American and Material Culture Studies, as well as anyone interested in fashion, history, or—what else?—shoes! It is well researched, accessible, and it interweaves history, biography, and engaging shoe stories in a brilliant manner, doing justice to all the strands in draws to it. It would be a delight to see more endeavors like this one undertaken by and circulating among Americanists.—Katerina Delikonstantinidou, European Journal of American StudiesIn this richly illustrated volume, Kimberly S. Alexander focuses on footwear as a way to nuance and enrich our understanding of key themes in eighteenth-century British American history and culture. By tracing the production, sale, and (re)use of shoes, she revisits the development and maturation of gentility, consumer culture, and production networks across the latter decades of empire and the early years of the republic. In doing so, her study illuminates new facets of familiar dynamics, such as colonial American utilization of consumer items to craft social identities. The work also brings fresh attention to less familiar areas, such as how early American habits of recycling certain consumer items helped define class identities, familial relationships, and economic habits. As a result, much in this study will interest a broad range of scholars of early American society and culture.—Sarah Fatherly, Queens University of Charlotte, Journal of American HistoryTreasures Afoot illuminates the production and consumption of shoes in eighteenth-century colonial America, by examining the complexities of individual and national concerns, challenging longstanding assumptions and unearthing intriguing characters. Alexander's fascinating book is highly recommended.—Hillary Davidson, CostumeTable of ContentsAcknowledgments Introduction Chapter 1. The Cordwainers Chapter 2. Wedding Shoes Chapter 3. The Value of a London Label Chapter 4. Coveting Calamancos: From London to Lynn Chapter 5. The Cordwainer's Lament: Benjamin Franklin and John Hose Testify on the Effects of the Stamp Act Chapter 6. "For My Use, Four Pair of Neat Shoes": George Washington, Virginia Planter, and Mr. Didsbury, Boot- and Shoemaker of London Chapter 7. Boston's Cordwainers Greet President Washington, 1789 Conclusion Epilogue Appendixes Glossary Notes Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisDo you have the passion and the creativity for fashion? Why not earn a living from it? The Freelance Fashion Designer''s Handbook is your essential guide on how to go it alone, covering what to expect, making sure you get paid, planning your time, keeping up with your accounts, compiling technical packages for garments. It is your portable mentor, equipping you to work independently. Part 1 covers all the information to becoming a freelance designer such as creating a basic freelance contract, invoicing, how to find work, tax returns and much more. All supported with case studies. Part 2 contains the technical aspects of being a designer - including how to compile full technical packages for garments to be manufactured abroad.Trade Review'A clear and comprehensive guide to working as a freelance designer...truly a warts and all essential guide for aspiring designers' (Nina Faresin, Emtex Designer Forum) 'A detailed, comprehensive and a very useful reference book for all designers, freelance or otherwise. It is written from the heart by someone who has been on the journey of experience and now wants to help others to have a less painful journey.' (Angela Peers, Principal Lecturer, Department of Clothing Design & Technology, Manchester Metropolitan University)Table of ContentsAbout the author xi Acknowledgements xiii About the website xiv Glossary xv Part 1 Setting up as a Freelance Designer Chapter 1 The Reality of Life as a Designer 3 1 Will freelance work be suitable for you? 4 2 Experience, qualifications, skills and abilities 9 3 Working alone, self-discipline and motivation 13 Chapter 2 Getting Started 17 1 Selecting a location 18 2 Working from home or in a studio 20 3 Buying equipment, IT and furniture 23 4 Creating your company profile and CV 25 5 Planning your portfolio 27 6 Choosing a working wardrobe 28 7 Identifying pitfalls and customer issues 30 Chapter 3 Getting Work and Getting Paid 33 1 Where to look for work and how to get it 34 2 Professional organisations 36 3 Sales techniques 38 4 Calculating your rates and expenses 39 5 Interview tips 43 Chapter 4 Estimates and Invoices 47 1 Calculating an estimate or quote 48 2 Invoicing clients 51 3 Travelling abroad with and for a client 53 4 What your client expects from you 54 Chapter 5 Financial Matters 57 1 Choosing an accountant 58 2 Finance and bank accounts 59 3 Income tax 60 4 Bookkeeping and accountancy 61 5 National Insurance contributions 69 6 VAT – do I need to register? 69 7 Pension provision 70 8 Employing staff 70 9 Health and safety 71 10 Insurance 71 Chapter 6 Legal Aspects 73 1 The importance of contracts 74 2 Writing a contract 74 3 Intellectual property rights, copyright and design rights 76 4 Keeping yourself safe from prosecution for breach of copyright 77 5 Confidentiality 78 6 Keeping up to date with UK and EU law 79 7 How to find an expert on law in the fashion industry 79 Chapter 7 Getting Paid 81 1 Chasing outstanding invoices 82 2 What to do when a client fails to pay 82 3 The small claims court 83 Chapter 8 Planning Your Time 87 1 The working day 88 2 Your freelance diary 89 3 Holidays and your year plan 89 4 Interruptions and distractions 90 5 How to stand your ground when unreasonable demands are made 92 6 Computer timesheets 94 7 Backing up 100 Chapter 9 Training and Education 101 1 Extra training 102 2 Seminars and training courses for the self-employed 102 3 Part-time teaching 103 Part 2 Preparing Work for Production Chapter 10 Design and Development 107 1 Research and trends 108 2 Working to a design brief 109 3 Concept and design, style or shape 110 4 The PANTONE® colour system 111 5 Colour palettes 113 6 Branding 114 7 Tickets and labels 114 8 Preparing roughs 115 9 Presenting your ideas to your client 115 Chapter 11 Presentation and Finished Designs 117 1 Using drawing software for presentation CADs 118 2 Phases of a project 118 3 Phase 1: Preparing presentation roughs 119 4 Preparing a CAD template for a client 122 5 Preparing a colour palette 123 6 Phase 2: Preparing presentation-standard A4 CADs 125 7 Phase 3: Preparing detailed garment specifications 133 8 Compiling the full technical package 141 9 References 142 Chapter 12 Sizing 143 1 Sizing issues 144 2 Access to current information 145 3 Why sizing is different for different companies 146 4 Charts for specific sizing issues 147 5 Creating Excel size charts 148 6 Flat measurements 150 7 Grade increments 151 8 Pre-production sampling and size sets 152 9 Tolerance 153 10 Creating a ‘to fit’ body measurement size chart 153 11 Creating a garment size chart 155 12 References 164 Organisations and Useful Information 165 Index 169

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Book SynopsisAn illustrated cultural history of the apparel worn by American Catholics, Sally Dwyer-McNulty's Common Threads reveals the transnational origins and homegrown significance of clothing in developing identity, unity, and a sense of respectability for a major religious group that had long struggled for its footing in a Protestant-dominated society often openly hostile to Catholics.Trade ReviewContributes not just to U.S. Catholic history but also to the cultural history of clothing more broadly"". - Journal of American History""Dwyer-McNulty traces how religious dress evolved in America"". - Boston Globe""[Dwyer-McNulty] has broken open a wealth of significance behind a highly visible aspect of the lived experience of U.S. Catholics"". - American Historical Review""A compelling analysis of how the members of a subculture within American society have utilized appearance to negotiate their status"". - Journal of American Culture""Catholic and American cultural studies at its best"". - Magistra: Journal of Women's Spirituality In History""Recommended. All levels/libraries"". - Choice

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Book SynopsisThis collaborative ethnography of Italian-Chinese fashion ventures offers a new methodology for understanding transnational capitalism in a global era.Trade Review"Grounded in an innovative, collaborative multi-sited ethnography, this book makes a major contribution to existing literature by capturing the nature and power dynamics of transnational capitalism. . . . [Fabricating Transnational Capitalism] will be welcomed by a wide array of scholars interested in transnational capitalism, labor, kinship, fashion, China, Italy, and beyond." -- Tiantian Zheng * H-Diplo, H-Net Reviews *"This dense and fascinating book proves the relevance of the ethnographic method to analyses of the changing dynamics of transnational capitalism in recent decades." -- Véronique Pouillard * Business History Review *"This book breaths fresh air into the study of global and transnational capitalism. It represents a fine example of collaborative research and an innovative approach to multi-sited ethnography. It offers important insights into how transnational capitalism happens on the ground. This is a must-read for students and scholars of anthropological political economy." -- Jianhua Zhao * Asian Anthropology *"[This] book is much deeper and more nuanced than most comparative or multi-sited studies. The analysis is lucid, innovative, and book reviews thought provoking. The insights are vividly illustrated by interview materials that are carefully qualified and corroborated. This is book that should and will be widely read and discussed in years to come in the fields of globalization, migration, labor, economic sociology and anthropology." -- Biao Xiang * Journal of Chinese Overseas *"This book skilfully explains the dynamic nature of global capitalism and illustrates how the Chinese-Italian transnational market and resource exchanges have expanded industrial capacity. . . . I would recommend this book to a broad readership interested in these topics as well as in Chinese studies, area studies, and kinship." -- Shih-Ying Lin * China Information *"Fabricating Transnational Capitalism is remarkable not only for its convincing argument but also for its form: the book is a collaborative ethnography about capitalist transnational collaborations." -- Gerda Kuiper * Anthropology Book Forum *“Lisa Rofel and Sylvia Yanagisako have provided a creative ethnography of Italian-Chinese ventures in the global fashion industry, making a unique contribution, both conceptually and methodologically.” -- Xiaogang Wu * American Journal of Sociology *"[Rofel and Yanagisako] give detailed and nuanced insights into the processes of transnational capitalism, including privatization, the negotiation of the value of labor, and kinship." -- Hazel Clark * Journal of Asian Studies *“Drawing on the legacy of feminist critiques of public–private spheres, the authors expose how assumptions about such divisions in capitalism play out in globalized contexts. As such, they disrupt ‘an ideal type model’ and bring an understanding of capitalism as a diverse set of arrangements even in highly transnational contexts. Their comparison illuminates the role of states and private entities in structuring enterprises and reveals dynamics that shape value and accumulation as well as kinship and inequality…. The book holds particular value for scholars in globalization studies, political economy, economic sociology, and anthropology, as well as business and organization studies.” -- Elizabeth L. Krause * American Anthropologist *"Fabricating Transnational Capitalism's key contributions are substantive, theoretical and methodological.… The book is a refreshingly unique approach to anthropological studies of contemporary transnationalism.… It would be an excellent text to teach in courses in anthropology, geography, gender, women and sexuality studies, and political economy." -- Priti Ramamurthy * Asia Pacific Journal of Anthropology *Table of ContentsForeword / Robert J. Foster vii Acknowledgments xi Introduction 1 I. The Negotiation of Value 35 1. Negotiating Managerial Labor Power and Value / Lisa Rofel and Sylvia J. Yanagisako 43 II. Historical Legacies and Revisionist Histories 109 2. The (Re-)Emergence of Entrepreneurialism in Postsocialist China / Lisa Rofel 119 3. Italian Legacies of Capital and Labor / Sylvia Yanagisako 161 4. One Fashion, Two Nations: Italian-Chinese Collaborations / Simona Segre Reinach 190 III. Kinship and Transnational Capitalism 217 5. On Generation / Sylvia Yanagisako 227 6. The Reappearance and Elusiveness of Chinese Family Firms / Lisa Rofel 264 Conclusion 303 Appendix: Four Types of Collaboration between Chinese and Italian Firms 313 Notes 319 References 345 Index 363

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Book SynopsisElspeth H. Brown traces modeling's history from the advent of photographic modeling in the early twentieth century to the rise of the supermodel in the 1980s, showing how it is both the quintessential occupation of a modern consumer economy and a practice that has been shaped by queer sensibilities.Trade Review"Whether it’s the showgirls of the 1920s, fashion photographer George Platt Lynes spearheading 'queer glamour' in the 1930s, or the groundbreaking Black models of the 1950s and ’60s, Brown’s book will reshape our understanding of the modeling industry." -- Evette Dionne * Bitch *"Modelling is a queer business in every sense of that word. Brown’s exploration of it is fascinating: intelligent and unexpected in the turns that its analysis takes. This is no glib foray into celebrity culture, no superficial survey of supermodels. . . . A strikingly original, non-normative telling of 20th-century culture." -- Shahidha Bari * Times Higher Education *"Everyone from armchair fashionistas to modeling industry executives will find something to ponder in this original, creative, and beautifully queer examination of the international fashion machine and the role of the human model." -- Jim Piechota * Bay Area Reporter *"Work! is a deep dive into the history of a profession that is often regarded by many with surface-level thought. Modeling is often tasked to help create an image worth a thousand words, but Brown successfully uses more than that to show how the vocation and its inherent queerness pervades multiple aspects of America’s culture." -- Alex Tunney * Lambda Literary Review *"Exploring both fashion stills and the history of live modelling that eventually shaped black drag, Brown’s Work! is revelatory because it is intersectional and, arguably, the first comprehensive historical treatment of this lucrative industry, where various forms of influential queerness have been hiding in plain sight." -- Nathalie Atkinson * Globe and Mail *"A necessary addition to the fields of LGBTQ and fashion scholarship. . . . Brown’s book is a study in strength and courage inside a system predicated upon inequality, injustice, and harm—a beacon of light in a time of darkness and a reminder that there is far more to an image than meets the eye." -- Miss Rosen * Feature Shoot *"The book is a pleasure to read, full of interesting anecdotes about celebrated photographers like Richard Avedon, Cecil Beaton, Adolph de Meyer, Horst P. Horst, George Platt Lynes, and Edward Steichen. It is also illustrated with color photographs from the world of fine art and the pages of magazines like Vogue, Ebony, and Jet. This is a book for scholars and enthusiasts of fashion. . . . Recommended. All readers." -- T. Nygard * Choice *"Richly detailed and meticulously researched, Elspeth Brown’s Work! offers an intersectional framework through which the reader is able to consider the history of capitalism, queerness, and studies of affect and emotion through the lens of fashion, advertising, and the model. … Brown’s work is unique in that it offers a narrative that sits uncomfortably between celebratory firsts for black models and gay photographers and the stereotyped messages inherently and, at times, unintentionally embedded within the fashion and advertising images." -- Jennie Woodard * History *"Across the book’s five chapters—each vividly illustrated—Brown looks at the proliferation of ways that female bodies could be displayed: in couture houses, on stage, in print advertisements, as part of Hollywood’s creation of glamour and in high-end fashion publications. At each juncture she explores the shifting relationship between desire and commerce, observing the 'de-eroticised, public sexuality embodied by those selling clothes, goods and ideals. Describing those models who performed a kind of 'material seduction'—one existing at a distance, alluring in its intangibility—Brown traces the subversive potential in the business of visual fantasy." -- Rosalind Jana * TLS *“The unique contribution of the book is the way the author weaves the narrative through the lens of affect theory while also engaging the history of capitalism.... The book is a breath of fresh air ... and I offer much applause to the author for undertaking this rigorous project.” -- Kelly L. Reddy-Best * Dress *“I would highly recommend Work! to anyone interested in fashion studies, identity studies, queer studies, feminism, African American studies, black studies, history of photography, or art history and visual culture.... Work! is a superbly crafted, refreshingly clear and indispensable new history of modelling.” -- Joy Sperling * Fashion, Style & Popular Culture *“With Work!, Elspeth H. Brown. . . has tied together the different strands of her intellectual expertise––queer and trans studies as well as affect theory––to take the reader on a mesmerizing journey through an until now uninvestigated queer history of fashion modeling.” -- Roberto Filippello * Fashion Theory *“Work! is a groundbreaking contribution to the study of histories of sexuality, gender, race, and the market.... Brown’s book is a fascinating must read because it provides a history for an industry that is ever present but also somehow discursively invisible.” -- Stefanie K. Dunning * Journal of African American History *Table of ContentsAcknowledgments ix Illustrations xiii Introduction 1 1. From the Artist's Model to the Photographic Model: Containing Sexuality in the Early Twentieth Century 25 2. Race, Sexuality, and the 1920s Stage Model 69 3. Queering Interwar Fashion: Photographers, Models, and the Queer Production of the "Look" 103 4. Black Models and the Invention of the US: "Negro Market," 1945-1960 163 5. "You've Got to Be Real": Constructing Femininity in the Long 1970s 211 Epilogue 271 Notes 277 Bibliography 313 Index 337

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Book SynopsisShows how the fashion industry in the mid- to late twentieth century created a particular way of seeing religion as fashionableFrom cross necklaces to fashion designs inspired by nuns' habits, how have fashion sources interpreted Christianity? And how, in turn, have these interpretations shaped conceptions of religion in the United States? Religion in Vogue explores the intertwined history of Christianity and the fashion industry. Using a diverse range of fashion sources, including designs, jewelry, articles in fashion magazines, and advertisements, Lynn S. Neal demonstrates how in the second half of the twentieth century the modern fashion industry created an aestheticized Christianity, transforming it into a consumer product. The fashion industry socialized consumers to see religion as fashionable and as a beautiful lifestyle accessorysomething to be displayed, consumed, and experienced as an expression of personal identity and taste. Religion was something to be embraced and shown oTrade Review"Neal mines issues of Vogue magazine from the mid-1940s to the late 1990s to explore fashion’s shifting use of religious symbols in this persuasively argued work... [A] fresh take on an underexplored facet of the American experience." * Publishers Weekly *"[Neal] considers the inspirations of various designers and explores how advertising and marketing framed religious symbols, devotions, and icons into a commodity for trend-setting audiences, all of which culminates in a provocative conclusion that lends itself to further discussion... [E]xtensively researched, fascinating account." * STARRED Library Journal *"A comprehensive study of Vogue magazine’s archive detailing the entanglement between American Christianity and fashion culture from the latter half of the twentieth century to the present ... Neal’s goal is to show how studying fashion supplies important insight into twentieth and twenty-first century American religious life. Unquestionably, Religion in Vogue is a phenomenal text. Neal set an ambitious research goal and accomplished it ... A cutting-edge work." * Journal of the American Academy of Religion *

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Book SynopsisOver the last four decades, the fashion modeling industry has become a lightning rod for debates about Western beauty ideals, the sexual objectification of women, and consumer desire. Yet, fashion models still captivate, embodying all that is cool, glam, hip, and desirable. They are a fixture in tabloids, magazines, fashion blogs, and television. Why exactly are models so appealing? And how do these women succeed in so soundly holding our attention?In This Year's Model, Elizabeth Wissinger weaves together in-depth interviews and research at model castings, photo shoots, and runway shows to offer a glimpse into the life of the model throughout the 20th and 21st centuries. Once an ad hoc occupation, the model life now involves a great deal of physical and virtual management of the body, or what Wissinger terms glamour labor. Wissinger argues that glamour laborthe specialized modeling work of self-styling, crafting a look,' and building an imagehas been amplified by the rise of digital meTrade ReviewIn a thoroughly fresh analysis, Wissinger uses the fashion model as a lens to theorize changing intersections of technology and the body. With an eye for rich ethnographic detail, she takes us inside the world of modeling and skillfully back out again into the macro historical changes in embodiment and technology that modeling exemplifies.This Years Model delivers a rich and troubling history of how we have all come to manage ourselves as brands.Its the kind of book that will change how you think about your own bodys place in our high-tech world. -- Ashley Mears,author of Pricing Beauty: The Making of a Fashion ModelIn a sympathetic yet critical view of the labor of glamour, Wissinger presents rich ethnographic work augmented with interviews and the close integration of media and press materials on the historical trajectory of the modeling and fashion industry from the mid-1980s through the present. * Choice *Table of Contentsvii Contents Preface ix Acknowledgments xiii Introduction: Glamour Labor 1 1. Supermodels of the World: Living the Life 35 2. The Runway: Step into the Room Like It's a Catwalk 59 3. The Photo Shoot: Strike a Pose - There's Nothing to It 80 4. Cover Girl: Managing the Model Body 108 5. The Fashionable Ideal: Looking Like a Model 141 6. The Job: Nice Work If You Can Get It 162 7. Scouting: The Hunger for New Faces 185 8. Black-Black-Black: How Race Is Read 216 9. Touch-Ups: Making the Model Better 243 Conclusion: The Affective Turn 267 Appendix: A Chronology of Modeling in the Media, 1980 - 2010 279 Notes 283 Index 339 About the Author 353

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Book SynopsisShows how the fashion industry in the mid- to late twentieth century created a particular way of seeing religion as fashionableFrom cross necklaces to fashion designs inspired by nuns' habits, how have fashion sources interpreted Christianity? And how, in turn, have these interpretations shaped conceptions of religion in the United States? Religion in Vogue explores the intertwined history of Christianity and the fashion industry. Using a diverse range of fashion sources, including designs, jewelry, articles in fashion magazines, and advertisements, Lynn S. Neal demonstrates how in the second half of the twentieth century the modern fashion industry created an aestheticized Christianity, transforming it into a consumer product. The fashion industry socialized consumers to see religion as fashionable and as a beautiful lifestyle accessorysomething to be displayed, consumed, and experienced as an expression of personal identity and taste. Religion was something to be embraced and shown oTrade Review"Neal mines issues of Vogue magazine from the mid-1940s to the late 1990s to explore fashion’s shifting use of religious symbols in this persuasively argued work... [A] fresh take on an underexplored facet of the American experience." * Publishers Weekly *"[Neal] considers the inspirations of various designers and explores how advertising and marketing framed religious symbols, devotions, and icons into a commodity for trend-setting audiences, all of which culminates in a provocative conclusion that lends itself to further discussion... [E]xtensively researched, fascinating account." * STARRED Library Journal *"A comprehensive study of Vogue magazine’s archive detailing the entanglement between American Christianity and fashion culture from the latter half of the twentieth century to the present ... Neal’s goal is to show how studying fashion supplies important insight into twentieth and twenty-first century American religious life. Unquestionably, Religion in Vogue is a phenomenal text. Neal set an ambitious research goal and accomplished it ... A cutting-edge work." * Journal of the American Academy of Religion *

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Book SynopsisHow transnational modernity is taking shape in and in relation to AsiaFashion and Beauty in the Time of Asia considers the role of bodily aesthetics in the shaping of Asian modernities and the formation of the so-called Asian Century. S. Heijin Lee, Christina H. Moon, and Thuy Linh Nguyen Tu train our eyes on sites as far-flung, varied, and intimate as Guangzhou and Los Angeles, Saigon and Seoul, New York and Toronto. They map the transregional connections, ever-evolving aspirations and sensibilities, and new worlds and life paths forged through engagements with fashion and beauty.Contributors consider American influence on plastic surgery in Korea, Vietnamese debates about the fashionable, and the costs and commitments demanded of those who make and wear fast fashion, from Chinese garment workers to Nepalese nail technicians in New York who are mandated to dress fashionably. In doing so, this interdisciplinary anthology moves beyond common characterizationTrade ReviewAs Asia becomes increasingly central to the global fashion system, books like Fashion and Beauty in the Time of Asia become ever more important. -- Dr. Valerie Steele, Director, the Museum at the Fashion Institute of TechnologyFashion and Beauty in the Time of Asia is razor sharp in its framework and rigorous in its analysis. Eschewing tropes about the Asian continent and its oblique relationship to Western industries, the book maps new transnational circuits of exchange and offers readers fresh language to explain modernity, geopolitics, economics, and global taste cultures. It is so refreshing to read scholarship that takes fashion and beauty seriously. -- Tanisha C. Ford, author of Dressed in Dreams: A Black Girl's Love Letter to the Power of Fashion

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Book SynopsisUsing clothing as a point of departure, these essays imagine the South's centuries-long engagement with a global economy through garments, with cotton harvested by enslaved or poorly paid workers, milled in distant factories, designed with influence from cosmopolitan tastemakers, and sold back in the South, often by immigrant merchants.

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Book SynopsisFashion is under the spotlight like never before. Activists call for environmental accountability, and wide-ranging debates highlight exploitation across global supply chains and the reliance on unpaid labour. Digital technology undermines traditional fashion companies, while small-scale independent fashion designers provide radical innovations in design and work in more socially inclusive ways. This book contributes to a new sociology of fashion. Focusing on the working lives of independent designers and based on ethnographic research and interviews carried out in London, Berlin and Milan, the authors consider the urban policy regimes in place in these cities. They analyse how these regimes shape the microenterprises and the emerging political economy, as well as the structures needed for designers to flourish. They also develop several key concepts – the ‘milieu of fashion labour’, ‘social fashion’ and ‘fashion diversity’ – and chart the new world of digital fashion-tech and e-commerce. Drawing on lessons from European initiatives and recognizing the capacity of microenterprises and start-ups to determine fashion’s future, the authors call for the industry to be significantly decentralized to ensure more diversity and less exclusivity.Trade Review"Fashion as Creative Economy is a brilliant, multilayered work that offers an unparalleled theoretical synthesis of the fashion industry. It makes effective recommendations for how this system can be transformed and made more just."Jo Littler, City, University of London "This book is an important addition to both the scholarly literature and the public debates over the future of the fashion industry."David O’Brien, University of Sheffield

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Book SynopsisThe importance of fashion in the construction and representation of gender and the formation of modern society in nineteenth-century Spanish narrative is the focus of Dorota Heneghan’s Striking Their Modern Pose. The study moves beyond traditional interpretations that equate female passion for finery with symptoms of social ambition and the decline of the Spanish nation, and brings to light the manners in which nineteenth-century Spanish novelists drew attention to the connection between the complexities of fashionable female protagonists and the shifting limits of conventional womanhood to address the need to reformulate customary ideals of gender as a necessary condition for Spain to advance in the process of modernization. The project also sheds light on an area largely unexplored by previous studies: men’s pursuit of fashion. Through the analysis of the richness of sartorial subtleties in Benito Pérez Galdós’s and Emilia Pardo Bazán’s portraits of their male characters, this book brings forward these writers’ exposure of the much-denied bourgeois men’s love for self-adornment and the incoherencies and contradictions in the allegedly monolithic, stable concept of nineteenth-century Spanish masculinity. While highlighting the ways in which the art of dressing smartly provided nineteenth-century Spanish novelists with effective means to voice their critique of conventional gender order, the book also lends insight into these authors’ methods of manipulating sartorial signs to explore and to envision (as in the case of Pardo Bazán and Jacinto Octavio Picón) alternative models of masculinity and femininity. Threading through all chapters of the study is the idea propagated by all three of these writers that Spain’s full integration into modernity required not only the redefinition of the feminine role, but the reconfiguration of the masculine one as well.

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Book SynopsisShows how cinematic treatments of fashion during times of crisis offer subtle reflections on the everyday lives, desires, careers, and self-perceptions of postwar German women. This book steers attention toward two key aspects of German culture - film and fashion - that shared similar trajectories and multiple connections, looking at them not only in the immediate postwar years but as far back as 1939. They formed spectacular sites of the postwar recovery processes in both East and West Germany. Viewed against the background of the abundant fashion discourses in the Berlin-based press, the films discussed include classics such asThe Murderers Are among Us, Street Acquaintance, and Destinies of Women as well as neglected works such as And the Heavens above Us, Martina, Modell Bianka, and Ingrid. These films' treatments of fashion during times of crisis offer subtle reflections on the everyday lives, desires, careers, and self-perceptions of the women who made up a large majority of the postwar public. Costume - in films produced both by DEFA and by West German studios - is a productive site to explore the intersections between realism and escapism. With its focus on costumes within the context of the films' production, distribution, and reception, this bookopens up wider discussions about the role of the costume designer, the ways film costumes can be read as intertexts, and the impact on audiences' behaviors and looks. The book reveals multiple connections between film and fashion,both across the temporal dividing line of 1945 and the Cold War split between East and West. Mila Ganeva is Professor of German at Miami University, Oxford, Ohio.Trade Review[A] captivating interpretation of fashion and film in 'the long 1940s' in Germany . . . . a valuable resource for scholars and students, as well as a lively and fascinating read for a broader audience. -- Victoria Vygodskaia-Rust * GERMAN STUDIES REVIEW *Meticulously researched...Ganeva's trenchant analysis shows how fashion maintained pretences of normality during wartime, bolstered the processes of postwar normalization, and eventually helped to define attitudes towards consumer culture and material abundance in a 1950s Germany divided between East and West. -- Marketa Uhlirova * SCREEN *With [this book] Mila Ganeva puts forth an insight-rich study of the cultural meaning of fashion in film and the press from the Nazi period to the beginnings of the Cold War in Berlin. . . . [C]learly written and precisely researched . . . . An important contribution to research on the female horizon of experience in the 1940s and 1950s. -- Jan Uelzmann * FILMBLATT *This interesting book sheds light on the [postwar] period [in Germany] by documenting that both [the film and fashion] industries cultivated a vision of the autonomous, professionally accomplished woman and that numerous women were able to achieve an independent existence within these industries. -- R. Bledsoe * CHOICE *The book . . . is outstandingly researched and fills a thematic gap in the literature of German film history. -- Hans Helmut Prinzler * WWW.HHPRINZLER.DE *Table of ContentsIntroduction Vicarious Consumption: Wartime Fashion in Film and the Press, 1939-44 "Fashions for Fräuleins": The Rebirth of the Fashion Industry and Media in Berlin after 1945 Vignette 1 - Charlotte Glückstein: Historical Ruptures and Continuities in Postwar Fashion Fashion amidst the Ruins: Revisiting Two Early Rubble Films, . . . und über uns der Himmel (1947) and Die Mörder sind unter uns (1946) Vignette 2 - Hildegard Knef: Star Appeal from Fashion to Film Farewell to the Rubble and Welcome to the New Look: Straßenbekanntschaft (1948) and Martina (1949) Consuming Fashion on the Screens of the Early 1950s: Modell Bianka (1951), Frauenschicksale (1952), and Ingrid: Die Geschichte eines Fotomodells (1955) Epilogue Appendix 1:Principal Costume and Fashion Designers: Biographical Notes Appendix 2: Films and Newsreels Discussed Notes Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisRecognizing this process as a dynamic interaction of investigation, interpretation, intervention, re-creation, and display, Refashioning and Redress: Conserving and Displaying Dress examines the ways in which these seemingly static exhibitions of "costume" or "fashion" are actively engaged in cultural production. The seventeen case studies included here reflect a broad range of practice and are presented by conservators, curators, makers, and researchers from around the world, exposing changing approaches and actions at different times and in different places. Ranging from the practical to the conceptual, these contributions demonstrate the material, social, and philosophical interactions inherent in the conservation and display of dress and draw upon diverse disciplines ranging from dress history to social history, material cultural studies to fashion studies, and conservation to museology. Case studies include fashion as spectacle in the museum, dress as political and personal memorialization, and theatrical dress, as well as dress from living indigenous cultures, dress in fragments, and dress online.Trade Review"Helpful and inspiring. Well worth a look!"--ICON News "Recommended."--Choice

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Book SynopsisA behind-the-scenes look at the only fashion show held at the White House and the intersections of fashion and politicsOn February 29, 1968, the White House hosted its first—and only—fashion show. At the time, the patriotic event was lauded by the press, and many predicted it would become an annual occasion, especially since fashion had grown to become the fourth largest industry in the United States, employing 1.4 million Americans, more than 80 percent of them women. But the social and political turmoil of that particular year—from the Vietnam War, the civil rights movement, and the assassinations of Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. and Senator Robert F. Kennedy—cast a shadow over the festivities. Using eyewitness accounts as well as carefully preserved records, artifacts, and previously unpublished images, Red, White, and Blue on the Runway re-creates the once-in-a-lifetime event and explores the reasons why the first White House fashion show was destined to be the last. The politics of fashion touched everyone involved in this landmark occasion in American fashion history, from hostess Lady Bird Johnson and the Johnson daughters to the designers, including Bill Blass, Geoffrey Beene, Mollie Parnis, and Oscar de la Renta, as well as the models and guests. Those guests included the wives of governors and of President Johnson's Cabinet, in addition to dozens of fashion designers and prominent journalists who reported on the event. In our own turbulent political climate, Red, White, and Blue on the Runway takes us back to an equally tense time, providing a unique historical perspective on themes of fashion, politics, protest, and image-making that are immediately relevant today.Trade Review"First Lady Lady Bird Johnson knew the importance of fashion, and with her keen interest she made efforts to bring this conversation directly into the halls of the White House." —Jennifer Highfield, President and CEO of National First Ladies' Library "Lady Bird Johnson, a most pragmatic and sensible Texan, was disinclined to devote much time and effort to the pursuit of Megapolitan fashion 'froufrou.' Red, White, and Blue on the Runway traces the evolution of this First Lady into a supporter of the fashion industry and recounts with fascinating insider detail the unique American-themed fashion show at the White House in the tumultuous year of 1968." —Susan W. Greene, author of Wearable Prints, 1760–1860: History, Materials, and Mechanics

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Book SynopsisFor conscious consumers, buying clothes has never been more complicated. Even as fashion brands tout their sustainability, the industry is plagued by pollution, waste, and poor working conditions. If our clothes reflect our values, is it possible to be truly well-dressed? Sustainable fashion consultant Lucianne Tonti answers with a resounding yes. Beautiful clothes made from natural fabrics including cotton, wool, flax, and cashmere can support rural communities and regenerate landscapes. They can also reduce waste-but only if we invest in garments that stand the test of time rather than chasing fast fashion trends. In Sundressed, Tonti travels the world to showcase producers who are reforming the industry, from Mongolian goatherders, to Mulberry groves in China, and American hemp farms. Many of these innovations begin in the fields, with the cotton crops that will ultimately be spun into a soft T-shirt or the sheep's wool than will be knitted into a cozy sweater. Fiber farmers are taking a page from the regenerative agriculture movement, giving back to the land as they tend it. Meanwhile, further down the supply chain, top designers are working with Indigenous communities to relearn the artistry of sewing-and reward them financially. And global brands, including Levi's, are working to produce a pair of jeans that can withstand dozens of washes without any sign of wear. Tonti also shows readers how accessible sustainable fashion can be. Not everyone can afford a designer shirt that was lovingly hand-sewn. But most of us can buy less, choose natural fabrics over polyester, thrift shop, and wear our clothes longer. Sundressed is an exploration of a revolution taking place in fashion. And it is a love letter to clothing that embodies beauty and value, from farm to closet.

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Book SynopsisPrinted cotton sacks are currently fashionable aspects for material culture research, particularly in the costume and quilt history communities. In the second quarter of the twentieth century, these mass-produced sacks were relied upon by rural America as a valuable source of free fabric for clothing, quilts, and home décor.This book is the catalog for the Museum of Texas Tech University's "Cotton and Thrift" exhibition, which showcases the Pat L. Nickols Cotton Sack Research Collection. The Nickols Collection includes white sacks, printed partial and whole cotton sacks, swatches of printed sacks, instructional booklets, garments, quilts, quilt tops and decorated white sacks. Combined with earlier and subsequent individual donations, the almost 6000 feed sack pieces held by the Museum of TTU make this the largest collection of feed sack materials to be assembled by an American university, and likely the largest such collection in public hands.

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Book SynopsisA wide-ranging and varied collection of essays which examine surviving garments, methods of production and clothes in society. The second decade of this acclaimed and popular series begins with a volume that will be essential reading for historians and re-enactors alike. Two papers consider cloth manufacture in the early medieval period: Ingvild Øye examines the graves of prosperous Viking Age women from Western Norway which contained both textile-making tools and the remains of cloth, considering the relationship between the two. Karen Nicholson compliments this with practical experiments in spinning. This is followed by Tina Anderlini's close examination of the details of cut and construction of a thirteenth-century chemise attributed to King Louis IX of France (St Louis), out of its shrine for the firsttime since 1970. Three papers consider fashionable clothing and morality: Sarah-Grace Heller discusses sumptuary legislation from Angevin Sicily in the 1290s which sought to restrict men's dress at a time when preparation for war was more important than showy clothes; Cordelia Warr examines the dire consequences of a woman dressing extravagantly as portrayed in a fourteenth-century Italian fresco; and Emily Rozier discusses the extremes of dress attributed by moral and satirical writers to the men known as "galaunts". Two textual studies then show the importance of textiles in daily life. Susan Powell reveals the austere but magnificent purchases made on behalf of Lady Margaret Beaufort, mother of King Henry VII, in the last ten years of her life (1498-1509); Anna Riehl Bertolet discusses in detail the passage in Shakespeare's A Midsummer Night's Dream where Helena passionately recalls sewinga sampler with Hermia when they were young and still bosom friends.Table of ContentsProduction, Quality, and Social Status in Viking Age Dress: Three Cases from Western Norway - Ingvild Oye The Effect of Spindle Whorl Design on Wool Thread Production: A Practical Experiment Based on Examples from Eighth-Century Denmark - Karen Nicholson The Shirt Attributed to St. Louis - Tina Anderlini Angevin-Sicilian Sumptuary Statutes of the 1290s: Fashion in the Thirteenth-Century Mediterranean - Sarah-Grace Heller The Devil on My Tail: Clothing and Visual Culture in the Camposanto Last Judgment - Cordelia Warr "Transposing þe shapus þat God first mad them of": Manipulated Masculinity in the Galaunt Tradition - Emily J. Rozier Textiles and Dress in the Household Papers of Lady Margaret Beaufort (1443-1509), Mother of King Henry VII - Susan Powell "Like two artificial gods": Needlework and Female Bonding in A Midsummer Night's Dream - Anna Riehl Bertolet

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Book SynopsisThe best new research on medieval clothing and textiles, drawing from a range of disciplines. The studies collected here range through art, artifacts, documentary text, and poetry, addressing both real and symbolic functions of dress and textiles. John Block Friedman breaks new ground with his article on clothing for pets and other animals, while Grzegorz Pac compares depictions of sacred and royal female dress and evaluates attempts to link them together. Jonathan C. Cooper describes the clothing of scholars in Scotland's three pre-Reformation universities and the effects of the Reformation upon it. Camilla Luise Dahl examines references to women's garments in probates and what they reveal about early modern fashions. Megan Cavell focuses on the treatment of textiles associated with the Holy of Holies in Old English biblical poetry. Frances Pritchard examines the iconography, heraldry, and inscriptions on a worn and repaired set of embroidered fifteenth-century orphreys to determine their origin.Finally, Thomas M. Izbicki summarizes evidence for the choice of white linen for the altar and the responsibilities of priests for keeping it clean and in good repair.Table of ContentsThe Attire of the Virgin Mary and Female Rulers in Iconographical Sources of the Ninth to Eleventh Centuries: Analogues, Interpretations, Misinterpretations - Grzegorz Pac Sails, Veils, and Tents: The Segl and Tabernacle of Old English Christ III and Exodus - Megan Cavell Linteamenta altaria: The Care of Altar Linens in the Medieval Church - Thomas M. Izbicki Coats, Collars, and Capes: Royal Fashions for Animals in the Early Modern Period - John Block Friedman A Set of Late-Fifteenth-Century Orphreys Relating to Ludovico Buonvisi, a Lucchese Merchant, and Embroidered in a London Workshop - Frances Pritchard Academical Dress in Late Medieval and Renaissance Scotland - Jonathan C. Cooper Dressing the Bourgeoisie: Clothing in Probate Records of Danish Townswomen, ca. 1545-1610 - Camilla Luise Dahl Recent Books of Interest

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Book SynopsisThe best new research on medieval clothing and textiles, drawing from a range of disciplines. Three of the essays in this collection focus on Italy, with contributions on footwear in Lucca based on documentary evidence of the fourteenth century; aristocratic furnishings as described in a royal letter of the fifteenth century, along with its first translation into English; and Boccaccio's treatment of disguise involving Christian/Islamic identity shifts in his Decameron. The Bayeux Tapestry is discussed as a narrative artwork that adopts various costumes for semiotic purposes. Another chapter considers surviving artefacts: a detailed study of a piece of quilted fabric armour, one of two such items surviving in Lübeck, Germany, reveals how it was made and suggests reasons for some of the unusual features. The volume also includes an investigation of the commercial vocabulary related to the medieval textile and fur industries: the terms used in Britain for measuring textile and fur are listed and discussed, especially the unique use of Anglo-French "launces" in a document of 1300. Contributors: Jane Bridgeman, Mark C. Chambers, Jessica Finley, Ana Grinberg, Christine Meek, Gale R. Owen-CrockerTrade ReviewThose working in the sphere of medieval clothing and textiles are very fortunate. Medieval Clothing and Textiles is a series which maintains high standards, showcases new research and is beautifully produced. * MEDIEVAL ARCHAEOLOGY *An excellent collection... it provides both new information and new perspectives on studying the medieval clothing culture through a comparative and interdisciplinary approach. * JOURNAL OF DRESS HISTORY *Table of ContentsPreface The Significance of Dress in the Bayeux Tapestry - Gale R. Owen-Crocker How Long Is a Launce? Units of Measure for Cloth in Late Medieval Britain - Mark C Chambers Robes, Turbans, and Beards: "Ethnic Passing" in Decameron 10.9 - Ana Grinberg Calciamentum: Footwear in Late Medieval Lucca - Christine E. Meek "Bene in ordene et bene ornata": Eleonora d'Aragona's Description of Her Suite of Rooms in a Roman Palace of the Late Fifteenth Century - Jane Bridgeman The Lübeck Wappenröcke: Distinctive Style in Fifteenth-Century German Fabric Armor - Jessica Finley Recent Books of Interest

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Book SynopsisEssays on costume, fabric and clothing in the Middle Ages and beyond. All those who work with historical dress and textiles must in some way re-fashion them. This fundamental concept is developed and addressed by the articles collected here, ranging over issues of gender, status and power. Topics include: the repurposing and transformation of material items for purposes of religion, memorialisation, restoration and display; attempts to regulate dress, both ecclesiastical and secular, the reasons for it and the refashioning which was both a result and a reaction; conventional ways in which dress was used to characterise children, and their transition into young men; how symbolism-laded dress items could indicate political/religious affiliations; waysin which allegorical, biblical and historical figures were depicted in art in dress familiar to the viewers of their own era, and the emotive and intellectual responses to these costumes the artists sought to elicit; and the use of clothing in medieval literature (often rich, exotic or unique) as narrative, structuring and rhetorical devices. Taken together, they honour the costume historian and editor Robin Netherton, who has been hugely influentialin the development of medieval and Renaissance dress and textile studies. GALE R. OWEN-CROCKER is Professor Emerita at the University of Manchester; MAREN CLEGG HYER is Professor of English at Valdosta State University. Contributors: Melanie Schuessler Bond, Elizabeth Coatsworth, Lisa Evans, Gina Frasson-Hudson, Charney Goldman, Sarah-Grace Heller, Maren Clegg Hyer, John Friedman, Thomas Izbicki, Drea Leed, Christine Meek, M.A. Nordtorp-Madson, Gale R. Owen-Crocker, Lucia Sinisi, Monica L. Wright.Trade ReviewThis beautifully affectionate tribute to Robin Netherton, co-founding editor (with Gale R. Owen-Crocker) of Medieval Clothing and Textiles (2006-), sets a new standard for such volumes and demonstrates how those who do the under appreciated work of organizing, editing, and mentoring make significant contributions to medieval studies. [...] This volume was clearly a labor of love and is a fitting tribute to a remarkable scholar. * SPECULUM *Table of ContentsIntroduction - Maren Clegg Hyer Robin Netherton: A Life - Gale R. Owen-Crocker Introduction - Gale R. Owen-Crocker Robin Netherton: A Life - Gina A. Frasson-Hudson and Charney Goldman Precious Offerings: Dressing Devotional Statues in Medieval England - Maren Clegg Hyer Dressing the Earth: Eleventh-century Garb in the Exultet Roll of Bari - Lucia Sinisi Dress, Disguise, and Shape-Shifting in Nibelungenlied and Volsunga Saga - Michelle Nordtorp-Madson Survival, Recovery, Restoration, Re-creation: the Long Life of Medieval Garments - Elizabeth Coatsworth Coping with Connoisseurship: Issues in Attribution and Purpose raised by an Indo-Portuguese "Vestment" in the Metropolitan Museum of Art - Lisa Evans Refashioning St. Edward: Clothing and Textiles - Gale R. Owen-Crocker "Dressed to Kill:" The Clothing of Christ's Tormentors in an Illustrated Polish Devotional Manuscript - John Block Friedman Treason and Clothing in Sixteenth-Century England: The Case of Gregory "Sweetlips" Botolf - Melanie Schuessler Bond The Lexicon of Apparel in the Pastourelle Corpus: Refashioning Shepherdesses - Sarah-Grace Heller The Real Unreal: Chrétien de Troyes's Fashioning of Erec and Enide - Monica L. Wright Regulating and Refashioning Dress: Sumptuary Legislation and its Enforcement in Fourteenth- and Early Fifteenth-Century Lucca - Christine E. Meek Nuns' Clothing and Ornaments in English and Northern French Ecclesiastical Regulations - Thomas M. Izbicki Clothing Dependents: Dress of Children and Servants in the Petre Household, 1586-1587 - Drea Leed

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Book SynopsisAn examination of the fabrics, garments and cloth of the Iberian Middle Ages, bringing out in particular the international context. The Medieval Iberian Peninsula, encompassing various territories which make up present-day Spain and Portugal, was an ethnic and religious melting pot, comprising Christian, Jewish and Muslim communities, each contributing to a vibrant textile economy. They were also defined and distinguished by the material culture of clothing and dress, partly dictated by religious and cultural tradition, partly imposed by rulers anxious to avoid cross-ethnic relationships considered undesirable. Nevertheless, textiles, especially magnificent Islamic silks, crossed these barriers. The essays in this volume offer the first full analysis of Iberian textiles from the period, drawing on both material remains and historical documents, supported by evidence from contemporary artwork. Chapters cover surviving textiles, many of them magnificent silks; textile industries and trade; court dress and its use as a language of power and patronage; the vast market in utilitarian textiles for lower-status clothing and furnishings; and Muslim and Jewish dress. It also considers Arabic and Jewish texts as sources of information on textiles and the Arabic garment-names which crossed into Spanish. Particular emphasis is given to the the different ethnicities of Iberia and their influences on the use and trade of garments (both precious and common-place) and textiles.Table of ContentsIntroduction María Barrigón, Naḥum Ben-Yehuda, Gale R. Owen-Crocker and Joana Sequeira I The Historical Background/Context 1 From the Five Kingdoms to the Hispanic Monarchy: Political Structures, Ideology and Historical Development in the Medieval Iberian Peninsula (1157-1504) David Nogales Rincón II Techniques, Trade and Industry 2 Textile Techniques in the Iberian Peninsula (Thirteenth to Fourteenth Centuries) María Barrigón 3 Cloth Tade in the Iberian Kingdoms during the Late Middle Ages Máximo Diago Hernando 4 Textiles in the Crown of Aragon: Production, Commerce, Consumption Germán Navarro Espinach 5 The Textile Industry in al-Andalus Adela Fábregas 6 Flax, Wool and Silk: Textile Industries in Medieval Portugal Joana Sequeira III Social Context 7 Dress as a Language: A Survey of ArabicTexts from al-Andalus Manuela Marín 8 Muslim Dress in Medieval Portugal: Textual Evidence in the Context of the Iberian Peninsula †Maria Filomena Lopes de Barros 9 Medieval Castilian Garments and their Arabic Names Dolores Serrano-Niza 10 Clothing, Furnishings and Ceremonies at the Castilian Court (c. 1214−c. 1332) María Barrigón 11 Fabrics and Attire at the Court of Navarre in the Second Half of the Fourteenth Century Merche Osés Urricelqui 12 Textile Production and Jewish Clothing in the Iberian Peninsula: Characteristics, Customs and Differences between Catalan and Other Jewish Communities Esperança Valls Pujol 13 Silk as Reflected in Medieval Iberian Jewish Literature Naḥum Ben-Yehuda 14 The Garment and the Difference: The Attire of Portuguese Jews and New Christians (Conversos) during the Thirteenth to Fifteenth centuries Susana Bastos Mateus Index of Persons and Places Index of Textile terms

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