Fashion and textile design Books

Book SynopsisThe history of the quintessential Parisian perfumer Guerlain both influenced and was shaped by Parisian life, savoir faire, and culture.The house of Guerlain is a Parisian institution. Guerlain aficionados—from royalty and empresses, to celebrities, writers, and artists—have been featured in novels, song lyrics, movies, and artistic creations, all while exemplifying Parisian savoir faire and luxury. The Guerlain headquarters and laboratory on the rue de Rivoli in the heart of Paris feature a new scent laboratory and a rose garden, intrinsically binding the famous house to the city of light, which it so perfectly captures in each bottle of perfume. Traveling through two centuries of history at Guerlain, this book highlights the inextricable links between the house and the city: Guerlain changed Parisian life with its cosmetics and perfumes, yet could have existed nowhere else but in Paris. Guerlain’s creations, especially its perfumes, are put into historical and cultural context through a combination of interviews, images, and portraits of the people and products that played a role in the house’s story. This celebration of Guerlain, the quintessential Parisian perfumer, combines fashion, Parisian life and savoir faire, history, and the essence of beauty.

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Book SynopsisThe first comprehensive monograph on the work of one of the world’s most influential art directors, Ezra Petronio Having a strong brand identity has never been more vital than it is today, and yet the real creative visionaries who can transform and reinvigorate a brand are few. Ezra Petronio is a true master, and his work with leading fashion and beauty brands is bold and impactful. An immersive visual survey of 25 years of impactful art direction, product design, and image making, with examples taken from across the entire range of his work, this book includes work for Chanel, Chloé, Comme des Garçons, Gucci, Hermès, Louis Vuitton, Prada, Saint Laurent, and Jil Sander, as well as Glossier, H&M, Revlon, and Zara. With 1,000 images of ad campaigns, branding, Self Service magazine spreads, graphics, and his polaroid series, which features the likes of Louise Bourgeois, Edward Enninful, Kim Kardashian, Kylian Mbappé, Kylie Minogue, Rick Owens, and Juergen Teller, it also includes texts that reflect on the process of image making; conversations with industry insiders on the art of art direction; and quotes from the likes of Honey Dijon, Marc Jacobs, and Chloë Sevigny on their creative process. This impressive book is the first retrospective monograph on his career, illustrating the full breadth of his creative vision, from ad campaigns to his iconic Polaroid series, and demonstrating what it takes to make a brand truly stand out.Trade Review‘Tells not only the story of Petronio’s collaborations and his unfiltered creativity, but also the evolution of fashion since the 1990s.’ – muse magazine

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Book SynopsisFor those wishing to perfect their sewing skills, the Focus on Fashion Details series includes 4 books with sewing instruction pages that correspond to specific details for constructing men's, women's and children's garments. These detailed pages give the necessary patterns for tracing and show how to make them step-by-step. Written in simple language for universal comprehension, each step is easy to follow with sketches. Simplified secrets and tricks from the ready-to-wear industry for home sewing Volume 2. All types of pockets for all kinds of garments : patch pockets, pockets in seams, welt pockets for shirts, dresses, suits, blazers, coats, etc.Table of ContentsPatch pockets Patch pockets, with flaps, with inverted pleats, with gusset Sheathed patch pocket Pockets in the seams. Yoke seam pocket Denim jacket" Front hip pocket 'jeans" Slant pocket for women's and men's wear Pocket in a seam with and without facing Slit Pockets Zipped slit pocket Zipped piped pocket Double-piped pockets Simple piped pockets Slanted welt pocket Welt pocket Breast pocket. Back hip pocket Measurement charts for vertical, slanted and horizontal pocket openings for children's, women's and men's wear Lexicon

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Book SynopsisHats finish an outfit - they make a statement, provide panache and lift your spirits. This book explains how to make your own hats, using traditional construction methods with both specialist millinery foundation materials and a range of fabrics and trimmings. It showcases twenty-six hats and headpieces, each with step-by-step photographs and instructions, some using ready-made elements, others that are made from scratch. Celebrating the versatility of hats, it introduces the wide range of styles and shapes that modern millinery has embraced.

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Book SynopsisAppliqué is a classic embroidery technique that has recently been experiencing a revival. Appearing in the most cutting-edge contemporary textile work, it can be interpreted in many different ways – layering, patching, applying, overlaying – and offers endless creative possibilities. Each technical variation of appliqué has traditionally had its own set boundaries, but nowadays all the rules are being broken and the technique has become relevant, up-to-date and suitable for all varieties of textile art. This impressive book takes a fresh look at the world of appliqué and surface embellishment, showing you how to develop distinctive and individual designs, create exciting compositions and use unusual combinations of materials. It covers the traditional variations, including bonded appliqué, broderie perse, cut-away appliqué and Mola work, and explains how the standard techniques can be developed to give exciting results in your own textile work, in both hand and machine embroidery. Accompanying the techniques is a wealth of examples of contemporary appliqué to inspire you. The authors are renowned for their thoughtful, creative but practical approach to teaching textiles, making this book suitable for beginners and established textile artists alike.

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Book SynopsisMagdalene Keaney is an Australian photography curator and writer. Currently the Director of the Gallery of Australian Design, she was formerly a curator at the Australian National Portrait Gallery and Associate Curator of Photographs at the National Portrait Gallery, London.Trade Review'Compelling … a bold, vivid book, and essential viewing for those interested in both contemporary photography and fashion' - Daily Telegraph'An exciting glimpse into the wealth of contemporary practices in fashion photography … a dynamic, colourful and multi-faceted presentation' - ArtDaily.org'An exciting collection of work … beautifully printed … a really diverse, exciting and optimistic book' - World Photo'A visual feast of inspiring works and insights to individual career pathways from the image makers that need to be on your radar' - AdornGirl.com'Utterly memorable' - Hungry Eye'The freshest take on the fashion world through the camera lens … more than a coffee table read, thanks to fascinating mini biographies … Whether you’re a sucker for creative adverts or you can’t resist clever editorial shoots, you’ll appreciate Keaney’s guide to modern fashion photography and its continual reinvention' - RunningInHeels.comTable of ContentsIntroduction; Brendan Baker/Samuel Evans; Mel Bles; Kasia Bobula; Timur Celikdag; Charlie Engman; Jermaine Francis; Boo George; Jonathan Hallam; Jamie Hawkesworth; Alice Hawkins; Erik Madigan Heck; Julia Hetta; Samuel Hodge; Axel Hoedt; Laetitia Hotte; Daniel Jackson; Bruna Kazinoti; Immo Klink; Tyrone Lebon; Joss McKinley; Chad Moore; Laetitia Negre; Hanna Putz; Daniel Riera; Robi Rodriguez; Daniel Sannwald; Dennis Schoenberg; Clare Shilland; Saga Sig; Jacob Sutton; Philippe Vogelenzang; Chardchakaj Waikawee; Tung Walsh; Harley Weir; Ruvan Wijesooriya; Bibliography; Picture Credits; Acknowledgments

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Book SynopsisThis illustrated survey of 600 years of fashion investigates its cultural and social meanings from medieval Europe to 20th-century America. It provides a guide to the changes in style and taste, showing that clothes have always played a pivotal role in defining a sense of identity and society.Table of ContentsMedieval period - fashioning the body; Renaissance - the rhetoric of power; 17th century - clothing and crisis; 18th century - clothing and commerce; 19th century - fashion and modernity; early 20th century - clothing the masses; late 20th century - catwalk and street style.

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Book SynopsisIt takes more than raw talent and passion to make it in today''s global apparel and accessories marketsexcellent computer-aided design skills are a prerequisite. CAD for Fashion Design and Merchandising allows students to immediately begin creating digital fashion presentations using Adobe Illustrator and Photoshop. This book takes an integrated approach, allowing students to master the three-dimensional benefits of combining the two software programs. Colorful illustrations accompany easy, step-by-step tutorials that are geared toward students at the beginner and intermediate levels. Because the book uses fashion photography rather than hand-drawn illustrations as a basis for demonstrating the proportion of fashion croquis, instructors will be able to evaluate students' mastery of digital illustration regardless of their hand-drawing skills, and students will benefit from a seamless transition from creative thought to digital rendering.Introducing CAD for Fashion Design and Me

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Book SynopsisThe ultimate guide to achieving beautiful and inspirational quilt blocks. Modern Japanese quilting uses Eastern and Western techniques to create quilts of extraordinary beauty. This book is a treasury of more than 125 block designs, characterised by their use of beautiful oriental textiles, unusual motifs and striking colour combinations. Choose from patchwork, appliqué and sashiko blocks, organised into themed sections based on geometric, pictorial and family crest designs. All the techniques you will need are clearly demonstrated. Each design features a photograph, clear instructional diagram or template, fabric palette and cutting guide, and instructions for making the block. At-a-glance icons indicate skill level and techniques used. All of the blocks can be mixed and matched, and you will find examples of fail-safe block combinations for stylish quilts, from tessellated all-over patterns to spectacular sampler quilts.Trade Review'I don't think there are many quilters who won't get something from this informative and useful book. * Popular Patchwork (June 2007) *Table of ContentsIntroduction How to Use This Book Gallery Materials, Tools and Techniques Fabric Colour Schemes Equipment Cutting Piecing Appliqué Sashiko Finishing Block Directory Patchwork Blocks Sashiko Blocks Kamon Blocks Takarazukushi Blocks Index Resources and Credits

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Book SynopsisThe story of fashion is woven through with colour. Vividly illustrated and compellingly written, The Colour of Fashion uncovers the colourful history of style, through 10 shades and their key moments in the spotlight – including Beyoncé in empowering yellow chiffon, Valentino's signature red gowns, and Audrey Hepburn in that Little Black Dress – and shows that colour means so much more than meets the eye.Black - Purple - Blue - Green - Yellow - Orange - Brown - Red - Pink - White Table of ContentsIntroduction • Black • Purple • Blue • Green • Yellow • Orange • Brown • Red • Pink • White • Index & credits

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Book SynopsisThis book is available as open access through the Bloomsbury Open Access programme and is available on www.bloomsburycollections.com. It is funded by Knowledge Unlatched.A remarkable resource for the field of fashion studies suitable for both newcomers ... [and] seasoned practitioners. - Fashion HistoriaA precious source in the study of the subject ... inspiring. - The Journal of Dress HistoryThe last decade has seen the growing popularity and visibility of fashion as a cultural product, including its growing presence in museum exhibitions. This book explores the history of fashion displays, highlighting the continuity of past and present curatorial practices. Comparing and contrasting exhibitions from different museums and decadesfrom the Paris Exposition Universelle of 1900 to the Alexander McQueen Savage Beauty show at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 2011, and beyondit makes connections between museum fashion and the wider fasTrade ReviewThe book serves as a valuable entry into the continually evolving field of fashion curation and would make a worthwhile purchase for any library with programs in art history, museum studies, fashion studies, or design history. * ARLIS/NA Reviews *[Contains] rich illustrations ... Moreover, with 20 pages of references, the book confirms itself as a precious source in the study of the subject. Perhaps more interestingly, it is possible that this publication will become the ever–present reference in future books ... Petrov’s work is inspiring for scholars not just for the contents but even for her disciplined writing. The quoted exhibitions are, without a doubt, the greatest strength in this study. * The Journal of Dress History *A remarkable resource for the field of fashion studies suitable for both newcomers who will appreciate the abundance of history and references, as well as seasoned practitioners that may see their own work in a different light ... One of the most striking aspects of this book [is] that the issues that seem to plague every fashion exhibition, from mannequin heads and wigs to gaps in the collection, have been with us from the start. Perhaps with the addition of this book, we can collectively start to sort out solutions. * Fashion Historia *Comprehensive, well-argued and original, this book includes invaluable insights from a practicing curator and historian, and places the museum exhibition in the larger discourse of fashion and its history. -- Hazel Clark, Parsons School of Design, The New School, New York, USAPetrov’s sharp and critical insights put the current worldwide rise of fashion exhibitions in an historic continuum, raising questions that should be on the mind of every fashion curator or museum working with fashion. By far the most thought provoking book on fashion curation of the past years. -- Kaat Debo, Director and Chief Curator, MoMu Fashion Museum, Antwerp, BelgiumThis is a valuable addition to the scholarship dedicated to the complex relationship between fashion and museums. Petrov retraces connections and highlights pivotal experiences, providing a thorough study – useful not only to consider history, but also to reflect on future practices. -- Maria Luisa Frisa, Università IUAV di Venezia, ItalyThis is an insightful addition to the growing field of fashion curating. Stretching over the last century and beyond, Petrov’s contribution is an original analysis of the museum as a site where fashion, commerce, art and history intertwine. [A] must-read for students of fashion and anyone interested in the field. -- Annamari Vänskä, co-editor of 'Fashion Curating' (Bloomsbury, 2017), and Aalto University, FinlandA welcome account of the key historical developments in establishing the display of dress and, in turn, the culture of fashion exhibitions; a useful contribution to fashion studies. -- Alistair O’Neill, Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London, UKTable of ContentsList of Illustrations Acknowledgements Introduction: Fashion as Museum Object 1. Foundation Garments: Precedents for Fashion History Exhibitions in Museums 2. Window Shopping: Commercial Inspiration for Fashion in the Museum 3. The New Objectivity: Social Science Methods for the Display of Dress 4. Intervisuality: Displaying Fashion as Art 5. Tableaux Vivants: The Influence of Theatre 6. The Body in the Gallery: Revivifying Historical Fashion 7. The Way of All Flesh: Displaying the Historicity of Historical Fashion 8. The New Look: Contemporary Trends in Fashion Exhibitions Notes Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisA beautifully illustrated celebration of the life and work of activist, provocateur, and fashion icon, Vivienne Westwood. Vivienne Westwood spent more than five decades breaking the rules and pushing the envelope of the fashion world. Renowned for her rebellious spirit and avant-garde designs, Westwood lived a life dedicated to a free artistic expression that continues to redefine fashion and inspire generations worldwide. She gifted us countless iconic moments and designs, from her days at the Kings Road SEX' shop and wearing no knickers to receive her OBE from the Queen, to her trailblazing 90s runway collections and her tireless pursuit of social and climate justice. Beginning with her working-class upbringing and traversing through the McLaren years, her contributions to early punk culture, her most iconic collections and her activism, amongst more, Vivienne Westwood is a new illustrated guide to a true one-of-a-kind.

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Book SynopsisIt has long been said that clothes make the man (or woman), but is it still true? If so, how has the information clothes convey changed over the years? Using a wide range of historical and contemporary materials, the author demonstrates how the social significance of clothing has been transformed.

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Book Synopsis''Elegant and multi-focal. Glorious!'' Simon Garfield''It will make you look at specs with fresh eyes'' New Statesman''Lively, engaging and admirably wide-ranging'' The Times''Fascinating'' ObserverThe humble pair of glasses might just be one of the world''s greatest inventions, allowing millions to see a world that might otherwise appear a blur. And yet how much do many of us really think about these things perched on the ends of our noses?Through the Looking Glasses traces the fascinating story of spectacles: from their inception as primitive visual aids for monkish scribes right through to today''s designer eyewear and the augmented reality of Google Glass. There are encounters with ingenious medieval Italian glassmakers, myopic Renaissance rulers and spectacle-makers, as well as the silent movie star Harold Lloyd, the rock''n''roller Buddy Holly and the full-screen figure of Marilyn MTrade ReviewElegantly framed and multi-focal, this is a gloriously panoptical survey... As a history of restored sight it is instructive, and as a narrative of facial furniture it is fascinating * Simon Garfield *This is a thorough, entertaining and thoroughly entertaining history of life through a lens * David Quantick *It will make you look at specs with fresh eyes * New Statesman *A fascinating journey through the history of eye glasses... a rich and detailed account of technology, fashion, medicine and society... encyclopaedic historical and cultural range, intriguing insights and jocular prose * Hackney Citizen *Fascinating... [An] exuberant history of spectacles and those who wear them -- Victoria Segal * Sunday Times *Elborough is an elegant writer who moves easily between high art, tricky optics and celebrity culture... This is a lively, engaging, admirably wide-ranging history of everything you could possibly want to know about glasses -- Laura Freeman * The Times *[A] brilliantly enjoyable survey... Elborough brings his own experience as a lifelong myope beautifully to bear on his subject -- Kathryn Hughes * Guardian *Fascinating -- Rachel Cooke * Observer *Witty, enjoyable and illuminating... the sort of book that makes you wonder why nobody has ever written it before... Elborough is an erudite cultural historian -- Andrew Lynch * Business Post *[An] exhaustive, illuminating celebration of eyewear... Elborough proves to be an endlessly entertaining and informative guide * Islington Tribune *

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Book SynopsisPanoramic display of evolving styles ranges from ornate gowns of the mid-1800s, widened by hoop skirts, to turn-of-the-century fashions that produced balloon sleeves, diminished bustles, and close-fitting skirts. Hundreds of delightful images of elegant dresses, hats, shoes, handbags, undergarments, and much more. A superb resource. History in Review.

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Book SynopsisChanel. The Allure of Makeup31 Le RougeWith unprecedented access to the Chanel archives, this book presents a wealth of visual material from historic images of Gabrielle Chanel and seldom-seen early product shots, to cinematic campaigns starring legendary women.

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Book SynopsisAn updated edition of this indispensable reference, surveying the history of textiles from 25,000 years ago to the present. The history of textiles, more than that of any other artefact, is a history of human ingenuity. From the very earliest needles of 50,000 years ago to the smart textiles of today, textiles have been fundamental to human existence, and enjoyed, prized and valued by every culture. Silks from China, cottons from India, tapestries from Flanders, dyes from South America the appeal of different weaves, colours and patterns was long a motivation for trade, the exchange of ideas and sometimes even war. Mary Schoeser's groundbreaking book, now revised and updated to incorporate new research, presents a chronological survey of textiles around the world from prehistory to the present. It explores how they are made, what they are made from, how they function in society and the ways in which they are valued and given meaning as well as reflecting on the environmentTrade Review'It is difficult to think of a valid reason why anyone with an interest in textiles should not obtain a copy' - Textiles'Well written and comprehensive, the wealth of beautiful illustrations in World Textiles makes it hard to put down' - The Lecturer'Groundbreaking.... An invaluable introduction to this vast and fascinating subject' - New England Antiques JournalTable of ContentsIntroduction 1. Prehistoric Materials and Techniques 2. The Dye and Loom Age c. 32000–6400 BC 3. Trade and Trends 750 BC to AD 600 4. Church and State ad 600–1500 5. Western Ideas and Styles Dispersed 1300–1900 6. Oriental Influences 1450–1900 7. Surface Patterning from Indigo to Ikat 600–1900 8. The Importance of Cotton and Linen 1500–1950 9. New Technology 1600–2000 10. The Art of Textiles 1850–Today

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a huge range and FREE tracked UK delivery on ALL orders.

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Book SynopsisThe techniques Natalie Bray pioneered and perfected revolutionised dress pattern designing, assisting the rise of the modern fashion industry. Her teaching has had a profound influence on design, production and education and her works are classics: fashions change but the principles of designing patterns in the flat do not.Table of ContentsBiographical Note. Introductory. Applying the Metric System to Practical Pattern Designing. One. Measurements and Block Patterns. Two. The Bodice Block (bodice Analysis). Three. Using the Bodice Block (Introduction to Pattern Designing). Four. Simple Pattern Designing. FIve Yoke Styles. Six. Dart Manipulation. Seven. Sleeves. Eight. Designing Sleeve Patterns. Nine. Collars. Ten. Necklines, Revers, Rever-collars, Capes. Eleven. Skirts. Twelve. One-Piece Dress Foundation. Thirteen. Designing Skirt Patterns (Gores). Fourteen. Fullness in Skirts: Pleats, Folds, Gathers. Fifteen. Flares. Sixteen. Circular Patterns. Appendix One: The Simplified Bodice Block. Appendix Two. Adjustments to Sleeve. Abbreviations and Reference Letters. Fashion Supplement. Blocks for Casual Wear. Dartless Bodice Block (with Shoulder/Bust Dart Removed). Loose Fitting Shirt Block. Loose Fitting Jacket Block. Simple Kimono and Raglan Blocks. Shoulder Pad Allowances. Cuff and Sleeve Openings. Pockets. Wrap and Strap (or Placket) Openings. Halter Necklines. Index.

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Book SynopsisThe Great Gatsby is that rare classic that inescapably defines the age from which it sprang: the Roaring ''20s, an era of economic boom, stylish excess and above all an explosion of new and exciting fashions. This book chronicles the sparkling spectacle of Jazz Age fashion as it moves from the corseted world of the 1910s to flapper dresses, fedoras and bejeweled headbands.Illustrated with period photographs, designer sketches and key excerpts from The Great Gatsby novel, the book fully captures the style and glamour of the age of Jay Gatsby and Daisy Miller. It spans the entire wardrobe of both men and women, including day and evening wear, accessories, casual attire and fads like smoking jackets, tiaras and cigarette holders.Table of ContentsCapturing the 1920s / The Good Times / Women's Fashions / Men's Fashions / Accessories for Women and Men / Places to Visit / Further Reading / Index

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Book SynopsisThe first book to fully explore the uniform and style of young people in the Second World War

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Book SynopsisThe first major study of Cashmere and Paisley shawls in nineteenth-century British literature, this book shows how they came to represent both high fashion and the British Empire.During the late eighteenth century, Cashmere shawls from the Indian subcontinent began arriving in Britain. At first, these luxury goods were tokens of wealth and prestige. Subsequently, affordable copies known as Paisley shawls were mass-produced in British factories, most notably in the Scottish town of the same name. Textile Orientalisms is the first full-length study of these shawls in British literature of the extended nineteenth century. Attentive to the juxtaposition of objects and their descriptions, the book analyzes the British obsession with Indian shawls through a convergence of postcolonial, literary, and cultural theories. Surveying a wide range of materialsplays, poems, satires, novels, advertisements, and archival sourcesSuchitra Choudhury argues that while Cashmere and PaTrade ReviewFrom diplomatic gift to fashion trend, literary trope to colonialism’s violent accessory, the cashmere shawl is the star of Textile Orientalisms. Expertly weaving historical and literary sources, Suchitra Choudhury spins a vibrant tale of this culturally rich textile, intertwining the object and its many soft powers with British Empire scholarship. -- Susan Hiner, author of Accessories to Modernity: Fashion and the Feminine in Nineteenth-Century FranceSuchitra Choudhury weaves together entangled histories and discovers that the humble shawl is in fact a powerful symbol of empire, trade, industry, class, gender, design, and fashion, as well as being a symbol of identity, authenticity, family, and belonging. -- Leonie Bell, director, Victoria and Albert Museum DundeeA magisterial exploration…. Suchitra Choudhury has dug deeply in the archives of British India to reveal the shawl’s multiple meanings as a desired fashion accessory and orientalist icon. Linking the fashion system to imperial governance, gender and class insurrection, her book demonstrates that despite its privileged place at the heart of British domesticity, the ‘old Cashmere shawl’ possessed an uncanny power to disturb and disrupt. An important, original, and long-awaited contribution to the literary study of British India. -- Nigel Leask, author of Stepping Westward: Writing the Highland Tour, c.1720-1830The definitive work on the subject of Cashmere and Paisley shawls in all of their intricate significances within eighteenth- and nineteenth-century English history and fiction. -- Deborah Denenholz Morse, Sara E. Nance Professor of English, College of William & MaryAn original and arresting piece of scholarship…. With its broad range, it should find a wide readership among those interested in fashion and the novel, literary critics, and cultural and imperial historians alike. -- Kate Teltscher, author of India Inscribed: European and British Writing on India, 1600–1800An impressive and extensive study on the cashmere shawl in British literature, anatomizing it as both a valuable commodity and a rich metaphor in literature. Suchitra Choudhury’s work is unique in denoting the shawl’s significance in both feminine and masculine experiences, and the manifold interpretations it engendered, creating ‘a “grammar” of consumption’ across gender and imperial discourses….It would be very useful for students of fashion, Victorian, and material culture studies, as well as suitable for the general reading public. * Fashion Theory *This beautifully illustrated and engagingly written monograph surveys a wide range of materials including poems, plays, novels, and artistic and illustrative material.... [W]hat this book does exceptionally well is highlight and hold in balance the many competing discourses that surrounded Cashmere and imitation shawls in Britain during this period. Drawing upon the literary shawl as both a locus, representative, and even occasionally a tool of empire, Choudhury’s engaging monograph sets up and excitingly explores "the interface between Britain and India during the colonial period." * British Association for Victorian Studies Newsletter *

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Book SynopsisThis book is published with three unique covers.  Customers will receive one of the covers at random when they purchase the book.This magnificent survey is the first and only book that Klein has written and compiled himself and is illustrated with era-defining photographs by the most distinguished names in fashion photography, from Irving Penn and Richard Avedon to Bruce Weber, and Patrick Demarchelier—among others. In it, the world’s most iconic models like Christy Turlington and Kate Moss, are captured in images that would define their careers, and remain indelible to the consumer. Accompanied by private insights and behind-the-scenes stories that only he could tell, every image has been chosen by Calvin Klein to narrate his evolution as a designer—from couture to jeans, underwear, and fragrance—all categories in which he redefined what was chic and essential. As an icon of minimalism, modernism, sexual provocation, and androgyny, CTrade Review"Calvin Klein may no longer head the company that bears his name, but in a glorious new monograph he shares memories and images from the early days. With pictures by Irving Penn and Richard Avedon, it would look good on any coffee table or (giant) shelf."—The New York Times, Holiday Gift Guide"a 420-page tome of self-reflection and evaluation, his first major self-reflective project since his retirement."—Women's Wear Daily"Holiday Gift Guide: The famed designer Calvin Klein released his first book with 3 distinctive covers and it is chock-full of the ground-breaking imagery, ad campaigns, and slip dresses the label is known for."—W Magazine"Fashion’s enduring icon provides access into his world for the very first time in this hefty tome packed with photos from iconic names like Bruce Weber, Irving Penn and Richard Avedon. Divided into three sections addressing singular elements of his work – Rebellious (remember the groundbreaking Brooke Shields ad?), Minimal and, finally, Stories in which Klein opens up about his youth and vision. Proceeds benefit God’s Love We Deliver."—Indulge Magazine"Nicknamed Calvin Clean for his sleek designs, this volume presents a stunning archive of images that reveal his timeless influence as a designer, as well as the ground he broke with romantic, rebellious, sexually charged advertising campaigns the likes of which had never been seen before"—Society Diaries"New Book Presents Archive of Calvin Klein’s Influence"—Real Clear Life"This large tome by the legendary American designer is required reading for any fashion junkie."—CR Fashion Book"Sometimes the greatest sign of a genius comes when the industry has swung so far in their direction, a modern viewer cannot discern what was so revolutionary in the first place about the artist’s work. That’s very much the case with this first survey done by Klein of his own work. His vision for fashion and American life completely won. The second big observation? The man thought a lot about sex."—TheDailyBeast.com "Consider this book an incredibly comprehensive look at the designer's work from 1968 on. Headline-making ads through the years that sparked heated debates over sexuality in advertising are laid out in chronological order. While the book is R-rated, it's a welcome walk down memory lane."—Hollywood Reporter "American designer Calvin Klein’s eponymous (and first-ever) book reflects on his most career-defining moments in 480 pages of black-and-white photographs by the world’s most distinguished photographers (Patrick Demarchelier, Irving Penn, Richard Avedon) and most recognizable faces (Kate Moss and Christy Turlington among them)."—Departures.com

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Book SynopsisThe world’s leading authorities on fashion and design celebrate the 60th anniversary of YSL’s first runway presentation with a lexicon that includes many images from the designer’s extraordinary archives.Yves Saint Laurent (1936–2008) is credited with reviving French haute couture in the 1960s, with making ready-to-wear reputable, and with using non-European cultural references. In addition to the kaleidoscope of images in this book, a coterie of tastemakers have supplied listings that encompass YSL’s style inspirations (C is for Costumes, as exem-plified by the Russian theme of the famed autumn-winter 1976–77 collection; T is for Tuxedo, which the designer initially referenced with his 1965 “Le Smoking”) and important facets of his life (J is for Jardin Majorelle, the garden of the couturier’s para-disiacal retreat in Marrakech;Trade Review"Tracing Yves Saint Laurent’s life, loves, and inspirations alphabetically, from “Art” to “Zizi” (Jeanmaire, a longtime muse), this abecedary marks the 60th anniversary of the designer’s first runway show. Fashion friends including Diane von Furstenberg and Elie Top contributed chapters, each illustrated with photos and sketches from Saint Laurent’s archives." —HARPERSBAZAAR.COM"A new book of essays and photos traces the fashion, life, and inspirations of Yves Saint Laurent from A to Z. Amy Fine Collins zeroes in on his muses" —AIRMAIL.COM"YSL LEXICON is a priceless entry into the genre of fashion history. This is a monograph that will be devoured by those who were and remain devotees of YSL as well as for those who wish to know so much more than what has been written about him in the past." —NEW YORK JOURNAL OF BOOKS"Inside the New Book Covering YSL to the Letter: Released on the 60th anniversary of his first runway show, the book features archival drawings and photos, as well as essays by Hamish Bowles, Diane von Furstenberg, and Amy Fine Collins, among others." —AVENUE MAGAZINE"Taking on the people, places and concepts that inspired the designer are a host of high-profile contributors including Hamish Bowles on Haute Couture and Marian McEvoy on Jardin Majorelle. Illustrating the book are images from YSL’s archive, set against lavish textiles in truly iconic style." —LUXE MAGAZINE"... this book is seriously inspiring. I love the places and design styles it features. Fashion and interiors are so closely woven. Pre-order yours. I luckily got an advance copy." —THE ENGLISH ROOM

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Book Synopsisi-D began as a fanzine dedicated to the street style of punk-era London in 1980 and quickly earned its position at the vanguard of fashion and style, abiding by the premise of “originate—don’t imitate.” This anniversary volume is the ultimate tribute to the irreverent and forward-thinking magazine that revolutionized not only the world of fashion publishing but fashion itself. Over the 40 years since its launch, i-D has grown from a hand-stapled zine to one of the world’s leading international style titles with two million Instagram followers. Founded by Terry Jones in 1980, i-D began as a chronicle of style and attitude as much as a fashion bible, and over the years it has kept to that ethos, in the process becoming a nurturing ground for gener-ations of fashion talents, from David Sims to Juergen Teller, Edward Enninful to Wolfgang Tillmans, Tyler Mitchell to Harley Weir.This cTrade Review"A 40th anniversary rates a celebration, and that is exactly we have been invited to attend. i-D Wink and Smile!: The First Forty Years is a visual smorgasbord of a once cutting-edge leaflet that has sustained, evolved, and maintained one of the trendiest and most erudite readerships of a generation...This masterful tome brilliantly chronicles the publication, decade by decade, and should remind all readers that London is still a laboratory/pressure cooker for fashion and its tangential aspects. McKimm has proven himself a clairvoyant on so many levels. Throughout this major oeuvre we are reminded of just what made i-D a driving juggernaut in print media, with 11 international editions. It continues to raise the bar year after year...Whether the reader is focused on fashion, photography, trends, or just the latest and greatest, this is a book that must be added to their fashion library." —NEW YORK JOURNAL OF BOOKS"To create i-D: Wink and Smile!: The First Forty Years, McKimm spent two years combing through the magazine’s 40-year archive. The book, published this month by Rizzoli, is broken down by decade and definitely proves i-D has always had its finger on the pulse of culture. It features profiles of an 18-year-old Gisele Bündchen, a young Björk in 1996, and Chloë Sevigny in 1995, before she was in Kids, as well as fashion editorials from British Vogue’s current editor-in-chief, Edward Enninful, back when he was a fashion director for the magazine in the early aughts." —NEW YORK MAGAZINE"The book, edited by [Alastair] McKimm, offers a 360-degree summary of the magazine's history and cultural impact over the years....Divided by decade, the book features a mix of original spreads and covers of the magazine, with images of Rihanna, Madonna, Amy Winehouse, Björk, Vivienne Westwood, Naomi Campbell and Justin Bieber. It includes the work of Enninful, Teller, David Sims, Wolfgang Tillmans, Tyler Mitchell and Harley Weir. Priced at $75, the new book also includes reprinted stories and archival imagery. There are also reflections by Moss, Helmut Lang, Sade, Raf Simons, Victoria Beckham, Jeremy Scott, and Phoebe Philo about being in front of the camera during their careers. There is also a celebratory poster." —WOMEN'S WEAR DAILY

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Book SynopsisProviding detailed analysis of the thermal comfort assessment of clothing as the basis for developing standards, this book discusses the thermal protective role of clothing as a way of modelling heat transfer from the body, general thermal regulation of humans, and the importance of globally accepted test methods and standards to improve quality. New materials and discoveries in the study of thermal comfort necessitate the need for standard improvements and update. The development of international standards and the unification of testing methods is of crucial significance to ensure cost reduction and health protection. The book promotes instruments, methods, implementation of unified specifications, and the definition of standards so that a clear quality management system can be established, for both production systems and testing methods. It discusses standards in ergonomics of the thermal environment, clothing thermal characteristics, and subjective assessment of thermal coTrade Review"This book shows the importance of modeling heat losses from the human body as an important factor in optimizing the comfort of clothing, as well as the need for assessment of thermal comfort and standardization of the related testing methods…Except for chapters 2 and 3, where some quantitative analysis is presented, the treatment here is straightforward and descriptive. The book is just right for interested general readers with some knowledge of physics."--S. D. El Wakil, emeritus, University of Massachusetts Dartmouth, CHOICE Table of Contents1. Introduction. 2. Behind the Scenes: Thermal Regulation in Humans. 3. Modelling the Heat Losses from the Human Body. 4. The Importance of Globally Accepted Test Methods and Standards. 5. The Standardization on Thermal Comfort. 6. Who Creates Standards? 7. The Standardisation on Thermal Comfort. 8. The Distribution of Standards on Thermal Comfort. 9. The Overview of the Most Significant Standards on Thermal Comfort. 10. Conclusion. 11. References. 12. Dictionary: Basic Terms and Units.

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Book SynopsisWinner of the Association of Dress Historians Book of the Year Award, 2021In 1939, fashion became an economic and symbolic sphere of great importance in France. Invasive textile legislation, rationing and threats from German and American couturiers were pushing the design and trade of Parisian style to its limits. It is widely accepted that French fashion was severely curtailed as a result, isolated from former foreign clients and deposed of its crown as global queen of fashion. This pioneering book offers a different story. Arguing that Paris retained its hold on the international haute couture industry right throughout WWII, eminent dress historians and curators come together to show that, amid political, economic and cultural traumas, Paris fashion remained very much alive under the Nazi occupation and on an international level.Bringing exciting perspectives to challenge a familiar story and introducing new overseas trade links out of occupied FrancTrade ReviewEssential reading for all students of fashion history in this period. It will undoubtedly endure as a definitive work on the subject of Parisian haute couture during German occupation and serve as a critical guide for the reassessment of fashion history during the wartime era. * The Journal of Dress History *If readers are looking for high-quality, colorful, and plentiful reproductions of wartime fashion items (gowns, hats, lingerie, shoes etc.) as well as historic photographs and art reproductions, they will find them in ... Paris Fashion and World War Two. ... Anyone attracted to the rise of fashion as an indelible part of twentieth-century modernity and interested in an informed, analytical approach to the social and aesthetic implications of fashion development will find that [this volume] offer[s] much to readers. * H-Soz-Kult *The book provides an excellent source on global fashion networks in wartime, and the ways fashion is disseminated and adapted within particular cultures, while acting as inspiration for further investigations of these fascinating and important international histories. * Cultural and Social History: The Journal of the Social History Society ISSN: *Stimulating, analytical, at times very moving, and enhanced by a judicious choice of illustrations. It will become a standard work, one that I cannot recommend highly enough. * Colin McDowell, author of 'The Literary Companion to Fashion' and contributor to The Business of Fashion website *An extraordinary achievement … it transforms our picture of Paris fashion under the Nazi Occupation. * Valerie Steele, Director and Chief Curator at the Museum at FIT, New York, USA *Bringing together an international cast of scholars and gorgeously illustrated, Paris Fashion and World War Two will become the standard reference on the subject. * Steve Zdatny, University of Vermont, USA *A ‘must read’. It is a kaleidoscopic history of the contradictions faced by those who made, sold and wore luxury fashions during the darkest years of the war. * Alexandra Palmer, Royal Ontario Museum, Canada *This book is a rarity in fashion scholarship in that it tells a story that engages the heart as much as the head, a story of human courage in the face of a great evil. * Brenda Polan, author of 'The Great Fashion Designers' *Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Acknowledgements Notes on Contributors Introduction: Lou Taylor and Marie McLoughlin 1. From Berlin to Paris Lou Taylor 2. The Lyon haute nouveauté fashion textile industry during World War Two: design, making, exhibition and diffusion Lou Taylor 3. The Impact of Shortages on Couture Fashion Accessories in Paris, 1940-44 Dominique Veillon 4. 'Much News from the Fashion Front’ – Swedish Neutrality and the Diffusion of Paris Fashion during World War Two Ulrika Kyaga 5. From Paris to New York: the methods used by Paris haute couture to maintain its domination on the fashion world on both sides of the Atlantic, 1939-46, through women’s magazines Sophie Kurkdjian 6. The Fashion worlds of Paris and the USA during World War Two: competition, contact and business, 1939-45 Sandra Stansbery Buckland 7. Lisbon as a centre of couture fashion in World War Two and its Paris and international connections Alexandra Gameiro and Lou Taylor 8. Fashion in Denmark in the ‘Five Dark Years' Kirsten Toftegaard 9. The diffusion, reception and use of Paris style information by the press and haute couture salons in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, 1939-45 Claudia de Oliviera 10. Annexed, Neutral and Occupied – The Paris Influence on Couture Fashion in Austria, Switzerland and Belgium Lou Taylor 11. 1944: London plans to become the ‘Meridian’ of world fashion Marie McLoughlin 12. Paris Fashion: An international product for an international clientele Marie McLoughlin with post-script by Nancy Yeide 13. The business of Paris couture from Liberation to Rejuvenation. Late August 1944 to February 1947 Lou Taylor with Marie McLoughlin 14. The End of the War in Europe: Rejuvenating the International Business of Paris haute couture Lou Taylor with Marie McLoughlin Conclusion: Marie McLoughlin and Lou Taylor with post script: A Letter from Nuremberg, 1946, Lou Taylor Index

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Book SynopsisSara B. Marcketti is Director of the Center of Excellence in Learning and Teaching and Professor of Apparel, Events, and Hospitality Management at Iowa State University, USAElena E. Karpova is Putnam and Hayes Distinguished Professor of Consumer, Apparel, and Retail Studies at the University of North Carolina at Greensboro, USATrade ReviewAs leaders in their field, Karpova, Marcketti, and their impressive roster of authors were uniquely qualified to take on the task of creating this compilation of contemporarily significant studies on the most pressing, interconnected challenges in the modern fashion system. Readers of The Journal of Dress History will find this book to be a valuable resource to turn to when examining garments, the conditions under which they were made, and the questions that arise from their production and consumption. * The Journal of Dress History *The Dangers of Fashion convincingly dissects the complexities of the challenges and solutions for achieving an ethical and sustainable fashion industry that spans cultures with differing values, world views, and profit motives. The authors’ narratives point out that no single segment of the industry, whether fiber and apparel production, retailing, or consumption, can stand alone in effecting change. This book, with its critical integrative focus, should be required in all fashion programs. * Mary Littrell, Colorado State University, USA *This book brilliantly weaves together the fashion system’s harmful and ethical uncertainties. The reader is given threads of knowledge as well as reasons for hope and urgency in what should be required reading for all. * Connie B Ulasewicz, San Francisco State University, USA *The Dangers of Fashion strays into territories all too often ignored by other texts, that of the ethics and morals of producing fashion, with chapters on counterfeiting and cultural appropriation. Texts cover topics from earth to dirt and all the processes in between through a range of contributors that span content and continents to give a complete picture of the impacts of fashion. * Sass Brown, Manchester Metropolitan University, UK *Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Notes on Contributors Part 1 – Moral and Ethical Dangers in Fashion 1. Introduction Sara B. Marcketti and Elena E. Karpova 2. Moral Dilemmas in the Fashion Business Jung Ha-Brookshire 3. Sustainability [Must] Drive Design Elizabeth Bye 4. Stealing Fashion Designs Sara B. Marcketti, Jean Parsons, and Hallie Erdahl Part 2 – The Dangers of Making Fashion 5. Fibres and Materials: What is Fashion Made of? Huantian Cao 6. Fashion: An Unrecognized Contributor to the Climate Change Kim Y. Hiller Connell and Melody L. A. LeHew 7. The Dangers in the Fashion Supply Chain: Offshore vs. Domestic Sourcing Ting Chi and Sheng Lu 8. A Look at Labour Issues in Manufacture of Apparel through the Perspective of Human Trafficking and Modern-Day Slavery Marsha Dickson and Hayley Warren 9. Exodus to Elsewhere: Exploring the Effects of Fashion Industry Globalization on Local Communities Nancy Hodges Part 3 – The Dangers of Consuming Fashion 10. Taking offense: A discussion of fashion, appropriation, and cultural insensitivity Denise Nicole Green and Susan B. Kaiser 11. Striving to Fit In Kelly L. Reddy-Best 12. Pain in [From] Fashion Ellen McKinney and Eulanda A. Sanders Part 4 – The Dangers of Caring for and Disposing Fashion 13. A Consumer Perspective on Clothing Care: Economic, Environmental and Social Costs Pam Norum and Rachel LoMonaco-Benzing 14. Disposing Fashion: From the Ugly… Jana M. Hawley and Elena E. Karpova 15. Disposing Fashion 2: …To the Good Elena E. Karpova and Jana M. Hawley 16. Conclusion Elena E. Karpova and Sara B. Marcketti Index

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Book SynopsisIn The Fashion Reader, Linda Welters and Abby Lillethun have selected 76 influential articles to offer insight into the critical theories and conversations that surround this huge international industry. Many of the essays are drawn from books, journals, magazines, and exhibition catalogues, bringing together new and established concepts to offer a solid grounding in the history, business and culture of fashion. Fourteen of the chapters were written expressly for this edition. For added context, each of the fifteen parts has an introduction from the editors, guiding you through the interdisciplinary world of fashion studies, and each part concludes with suggestions for further reading. This third edition has been substantially revised to highlight issues of sustainability, identity, the body, as well as global perspectives from The Commodification of Ethnicity to The Cultural Heritage of Tattooing.Trade ReviewAn engaging text that unpacks the interdisciplinary nature of the global fashion system with considerations of time, place, and context. Readers will gain new and critical insights into the ways various fields such as economics, psychology, geography, politics, art, culture, and business influence fashioned identities and communities. -- Kelly Reddy-Best, Iowa State University, USAHistorically informed and critically integrated, The Fashion Reader sheds fresh light on key concepts in fashion studies: time, space/place, identity, and globalization. * Susan Kaiser, University of California at Davis (from 1st edition) *A panoramic collection of current and classic texts and an excellent introduction to fashion . . . from history, cultural identity, gender, through to the business, economics, manufacturing and marketing of fashion. * Pammi Sinha, University of Manchester (from 1st edition) *Presenting rich, diverse, and significant essays, The Fashion Reader will contribute to and expand the study of fashion. * Theresa M. Winge, Indiana University (from 1st edition) *An invaluable resource that covers Fashion Studies' range of disciplines and approaches, The Fashion Reader will invigorate the growing field of fashion. * Patrik Aspers, Stockholm University (from 1st edition) *This is a useful starting point that demonstrates the richness of the subject, indicates the diverse themes to be explored, and the variety of approaches it is possible to take in examining both contemporary and historical fashion. * Costume, Vol 42, 2008 (from 1st edition) *Table of ContentsIntroduction — Linda Welters and Abby Lillethun Part I: A Brief History of Fashion Introduction — Linda Welters 1. From Prehistory through Byzantium — Abby Lillethun 2. Europe to 1700 — Linda Welters 3. From Baroque Elegance to the French Revolution: 1700–1790 — Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell 4. From Neoclassicism to the Industrial Revolution: 1790–1860 — Susan North 5. The Victorian and Edwardian Eras: 1860–1910 — Cynthia Cooper 6. The Modern Era: 1910–1960 — Tiffany Webber 7. The Postmodern Age: 1960–2020 — José Blanco F. 8. Fashion Outside the West — Linda Welters and Abby Lillethun Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part I Part II: Fashion Theory Introduction — Abby Lillethun 9. Dress as an Expression of the Pecuniary Culture — Thorstein Veblen 10. The Habitus and the Space of Life-Styles — Pierre Bourdieu 11. The Fashion System — Grant McCracken 12. The Dressed Body — Joanne Entwistle 13. Re-Orienting Fashion Theory — Sandra Niessen Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part II Part III: Psychology of Fashion Introduction — Abby Lillethun 14. The Fundamental Motives — J. C. Flugel 15. Blue or Pink? That is the Question: Homophobia and Its Influence on the Gendering of Colour Symbolism — Eun Jung Kang 16. Shopping for Fashion — Carolyn Mair 17. Lacan and Fashion — Alison Bancroft 18. Spirited Individuality: Halloween — Pravina Shukla Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part III Part IV: Fashion and Identity Introduction — Abby Lillethun 19. Dress and Identity — Mary Ellen Roach-Higgins and Joanne Eicher 20. All Out in the Wash: Convict Stain Removal in the Narryana Heritage Museum’s Dress Collection — Jennifer Clynk and Sharon Peoples 21. Subculture: The Unnatural Break — Dick Hebdige 22. 1980s and Beyond: Queering Fashion — Susan B. Kaiser 23. Islamic Fashion and the Global Islamic Revival Movement — Annalies Moors and Emma Tarlo 24. The Commodification of Ethnicity: Vlisco Fabrics and Wax Cloth Fashion in Ghana — Christine Delhaye and Rhoda Woets Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part IV Part V: Fashion: Space and Place Introduction — Linda Welters 25. Fashion in Peripheral Places: The New Zealand Story — Sally Weller 26. Travelling the Street Style Blogosphere: Amateur Photography — Brent Luvaas 27. Flagship Stores: Scaling Fashion’s Luxury Spaces — Louise Crewe 28. Globalization Reconsidered: The Historical Geography of Modern Western Male Attire — Wilbur Zelinsky 29. Nailed It: Producing and Consuming in Tokyo’s Nail Industry — Rebecca Scofield Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part V Part VI: Politics of Fashion Introduction — Abby Lillethun 30. Fashioning the Colonial Subject — Barbara L. Voss 31. Khartoum at Night — Marie Grace Brown 32. The Soul Wide World: The “Afro Look” in South Africa from the 1970s to the New Millennium — Tanisha C. Ford 33. How White Became the Color of Suffrage — Einav Rabinovitch-Fox 34. Worker Rights, Factory Inspection, and Fashion — Richard McIntyre 35. Trade Policies and the Textiles and Apparel Industries — Arthur C. Mead Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part VI Part VII: Fashion and the Body Introduction — Abby Lillethun 36. The Cultural Heritage of Tattooing: A Brief History — Lars Krutak 37. Consumptive Corsetry and Romantic Fashion — Carolyn A. Day 38. Outcomes of Plastic Surgery — Charlotte N. Markey and Patrick M. Markey 39. Hair and Human Identity — Sarah Cheang and Geraldine Biddle-Perry 40. Disciplining Corpulence: The Case of Plus-Size Fashion Models — Amanda M. Czerniawaski Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part VII Part VIII: Fashion and Art Introduction — Linda Welters 41. Fashion — Valerie Steele 42. Putting Artwear in Context — Melissa Leventon 43. Curating Chanel — Nick Rees-Roberts 44. One Work: Elsa Schiaparelli & Salvador Dalí: The Tears Dress (1938) — Ella Plevin 45. Dynamic Static — Nicole Archer Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part VIII Part IX: Fashion, Media and Communication Introduction — Linda Welters 46. Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis — Kathleen Craughwell-Varda 47. Film Stars as Fashion Icons — Pamela Church Gibson 48. Style Narratives: Sixties in the Twenty-First Century — Heike Jenss 49. The Celebrity as Designer of His/Her Own Fashion Brand — Marta Martina and Silvia Vacirca 50. A Global Discourse: The New Millennium — Kate Nelson Best Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part IX Part X: From Haute Couture to the Street Introduction — Linda Welters 51. The Dressmaking World — Thérèse Bonney and Louise Bonney 52. A New House, a New Femininity — Alexandra Palmer 53. Trickle Down, Bubble Up — Ted Polhemus 54. Punks and Pirates: The Costiff Collection of Vivienne Westwood — Sonnet Stanfill 55. Connoisseurs of Trash in a World Full of It — Jennifer Le Zotte Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part X Part XI: Design and Manufacture Introduction — Linda Welters 56. The Future of Fashion Forecasting — Regina Lee Blasczyk and Ben Wubs 57. Hedi Slimane and the Reinvention of Menswear — Jay McCauley Bowstead 58. At Work in the Vintage Archive — Jennifer Ayres 59. Luxury Indian Fashion — Tereza Kuldova 60. The Sweatshop, Child Labor, and Exploitation Issues in the Garment Industry — Liat Smestad Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XI Part XII: Marketing and Merchandising Introduction — Linda Welters 61. Spectacle — Ginger Gregg Duggan 62. Surprise Ambush: The Unexpected and Unscheduled — Nilgin Yusuf 63. The A&F Brand/Story — Anne-Peirson-Smith and Joseph H. Hancock II 64. Disruptive Business Model Innovations in the Fashion Retail Industry — Byoungho Ellie Jin and Daeun Chloe Shin 65. What Is the Future of the Fashion Show? — Steff Yotka Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XII Part XIII: The Fashion Business and Global Economics Introduction — Abby Lillethun 66. Made in ____ — Arthur C. Mead 67. Zara: The Business Model for Fast Fashion — Teresa M. McCarthy Byrne 68. Contemporary South Asian Youth Cultures and the Fashion Landscape — Lipi Begum and Rohit K. Dasgupta 69. Moroccan Fashion and Economics — M. Angela Jansen 70. Used Clothing Markets in the Global South — Andrew Brooks Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XIII Part XIV: Sustainability and Fashion Introduction — Linda Welters 71. Textile Production — Leslie Davis Burns 72. The Filippa K Story — Kerli Kant Hvass 73. Sustainability in Textiles and Fashion: How Far Have We Come Since 2000? — Martin Bide Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XIV Part XV: Future of Fashion Introduction — Linda Welters and Abby Lillethun 74. Amazon Has Developed an AI Fashion Designer — Will Knight 75. Sewing Up a Storm: How Robots and Other New Technologies are Shaping a New Era of Manufacturing — Kilara Le 76. Forecasting Fashion’s Future — Abby Lillethun and Linda Welters Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XV Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisA visual goldmine for designers of original print, weave and embellishment, Sourcing Ideas for Textile Design will help you generate new ideas, develop them methodically and finally create beautifully designed textiles. The carefully selected range of images illustrate how to use visual information in this process from a variety of sources, breaking down the process into key themes colour, surface, structure, texture and pattern. This second edition includes: case studies and interviews with insight into visual research and development from revered practising designers, including Dries Van Noten and Reiko Sudo; Spotlight sections offer historical or cultural perspectives on each point in the process; and, new coverage of material investigation, colour analysis, presentation and curation, as well as advice on IP and copyright. You'll also be guided through the three stages of textile design where you will: generate your idea; work to Trade ReviewEmbraces craft and technology and real-world insights from innovative and world-leading practitioners. This is an essential reference and a compelling read. * Anne Smith, Professor Emerita, Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London, UK *Provides a unique insight into a broad range of successful textile practitioners, while systematically walking the reader through the design process. It serves as both an inspirational and instructional tool for exploring possibilities. * J.R. Campbell, Executive Director, Design Innovation Initiative, Kent State University, USA *Table of ContentsIntroduction 1. What is Textile Design? 2. The Textile Design Process 3. Develop through Material Investigation 4. Colour 5. Creating Textile Outcomes Conclusion Glossary Bibliography

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Book SynopsisHow do fashion designers design? How does design function within the industry? How can design practices open up sustainable pathways for fashion's future? Designing Fashion''s Future responds to these questions to offer a fresh understanding of design practices within the sprawling, shifting fashion system.Fashion design is typically viewed as the rarefied practice of elite professionals, or else as a single stage within the apparel value chain. Alice Payne shows how design needn''t be reduced to a set of decisions by a designer or design team, but can instead be examined as a process, object, or agent that shapes fashion's material and symbolic worlds. Designing Fashion''s Future draws on more than 50 interviews with industry professionals based in Australia, Asia, North America, Europe, and the United Kingdom. These diverse perspectives from multinational retailers, independent and experimental contexts ground the discussion in contemporary industry practices.Trade ReviewClear-sighted, rich and enlightening: this is a book for our times of change. * Professor Kate Fletcher, Centre for Sustainable Fashion, University of the Arts London, UK *Starting with the question, “can fashion ever be truly sustainable?”, Payne offers a thought-provoking, engaging, and comprehensive examination of today’s fashion systems, sub-systems, and networks and the tactics and practices necessary for system changes. A must-read for all who aspire to fashion themselves and others for a sustainable future. * Leslie Davis Burns, Oregon State University, USA *Dr Alice Payne expands the discourse in fashion and sustainability by articulating exciting concepts such as taming and rewilding fashion. The book takes on the critical task of redefining fashion and fashion design to better empower us to face the challenges in the global fashion system today. * Dr Timo Rissanen, Associate Professor, University of Technology Sydney, Australia *Designing Fashion’s Future is a must to read for all interested in the future of fashion. A comprehensive fashion system is laid out to help us think about the challenges ahead. Fashion must be navigated, disrupted, and modified within the larger world system to evolve into a more sustainable model. * Marilyn DeLong, University of Minnesota, USA *Table of Contents1. Fashion Design Beyond the Designer 2. Fashion Systems Thinking 3. Designers, Named and Nameless 4. Fashion’s Designerly Narratives 5. Designing in Fast Fashion 6. Design for Sustainability as Strategies and Tactics 7. Weightless Fashion 8. Taming Fashion by Design 9. Rewilding Fashion by Design 10. Conclusion

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Book SynopsisThe Business of Beauty is a unique exploration of the history of beauty, consumption, and business in Victorian and Edwardian London. Illuminating national and cultural contingencies specific to London as a global metropolis, it makes an important intervention by challenging the view of those wholike their historical contemporariesperceive the 19th and early 20th centuries as devoid of beauty praxis, let alone a commercial beauty culture.Contrary to this perception, The Business of Beauty reveals that Victorian and Edwardian women and men developed a number of tacit strategies to transform their looks including the purchase of new goods and services from a heterogeneous group of urban entrepreneurs: hairdressers, barbers, perfumers, wigmakers, complexion specialists, hair-restorers, manicurists, and beauty culturists. Mining trade journals, census data, periodical print, and advice literature, Jessica P. Clark takes us on a journey through Victorian and Edwardian London'sTrade ReviewClark’s study is an elegant one, rich in detail with a sophisticated argument that compellingly encapsulates an important element of the beauty scene in a major global city ... Debates over beauty—currently a multibillion-dollar global industry incorporate and reveal issues of business, law, the body, morality, and labour in Britain and beyond, making The Business of Beauty a timely and important contribution. * Histoire sociale/Social History *[T]his text complements existing work around fashion and modernity in London, with a timely focus on the impact that colonialism, nationalism, and gender based conventions in the nineteenth century have had on so many aspects of life. * Journal of Dress History *Clark’s fascinating study of beauty entrepreneurship in 19th-century London provides wonderful insights not only into Victorian and Edwardian business and marketing practices but also into the history of gender, self-fashioning, national identities, and urban cosmopolitanism. Through careful research, the author has unearthed a wide array of intriguing source material that will surprise and delight. * Paul R. Deslandes, University of Vermont, USA *In this lively and imaginative new study, Jessica Clark demonstrates how the Victorians invented a major beauty industry in the center of their capital city. By focusing on hairdressers and other beauty experts, Clark’s fascinating and entertaining new book establishes how London became the center of a new type of consumer culture, in which consumers who could afford it could transform their bodies and identities. This is a must-read for anyone interested in the history of London, gender and capitalism. * Erika Rappaport, University of California, Santa Barbara, USA *Table of ContentsList of Plates List of Figures List of Maps Acknowledgments 1. Introduction 2. ’Backmewsy’ Beauty: Agnes Headman and Aimée Lloyd 3. Upstarts and Outliers: Sarah “Madame Rachel” Leverson 4. Mobilizing Men: Robert Douglas and H.P. Truefitt 5. Professionalizing Perfumery: Eugène Rimmel 6. Female Enterprise at the Fin-de-Siècle: Jeannette Pomeroy 7. From Beauty Culturist to Beauty Magnate: Helena Rubinstein Epilogue Appendix I Appendix II Notes Select Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisWinner of the John G. Cawelti Award for Best Textbook / PrimerHow did you decide what to wear today? Did you base your selection on comfort or style? Did you want to blend in or stand out or was it just the cleanest outfit available? We each make these decisions every day, reflecting how we view ourselves and impacting how others see us. Our choices matter not just to us personally, but also to the magazine editors, brand ambassadors and trend forecasters who make a living by selling to us. Communicating Fashion introduces key concepts from the intersecting worlds of fashion and communication studies to connect how we all use clothing to express ourselves and how media systems support that process. In doing so, Myles Ethan Lascity explores social, cultural and ethical issues through the work of fashion journalism, brand promotions and the growing role of online influencers as well as the impact of film, television and art on self-image and expression.Key topicTrade ReviewExamines significant moments and movements in clothing and fashion and contextualizes them into a coherent narrative grounded in communication theory. Clothing is an essential part of our culture and this text illustrates how fashion isn’t frivolous but rather an important facet of identity. -- Jeanne M. Persuit, Ph.D., Associate Professor, The University of North Carolina Wilmington, USAMyles Ethan Lascity marries fashion studies and communication in Communicating Fashion. He uses relatable examples, builds on scholarship, and explains in an accessible manner that will be appreciated by students just beginning to study fashion. -- Dr Andrew Reilly, University of Hawai`i, ManoaWith its eminently readable style, Communicating Fashion makes fashion theory accessible by clearly expressing how we constantly send, receive and contextualize messages through our shared experience of dress. Full of excellent examples, visual aids and humorous anecdotes, the text takes a distinctly modern approach and engages the reader while respecting the intellectual underpinnings of the discipline. -- Lorynn Divita, Baylor University, USAThis new landmark text opens readers to the future of how we view fashion, clothing, and the appropriate milieus that communicate with consumers regarding contemporary style. Lascity’s work not only takes on a journey of recent trends but builds on the contextual elements of tomorrow’s fashion and methods of scholarly inquiry. -- Joseph H. Hancock, II, Drexel University, USATable of ContentsPreface 1. Communicating Fashion 2. Clothing as Intra- and Interpersonal Communication 3. Clothing Dynamics in Groups and Cultures 4. Fashion: Systems, Meaning and Time 5. Clothing, News and Tastemaking 6. Clothing on Film and Television 7. Ads, Brands and Retail Considerations 8. Digital Communication, Social Media and Mediatization 9. Fashion, Clothing and/as Art Endnotes References

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Book SynopsisEighteenth-century women told their life stories through making. With its compelling stories of women's material experiences and practices, Material Lives offers a new perspective on eighteenth-century production and consumption. Genteel women's making has traditionally been seen as decorative, trivial and superficial. Yet their material archives, forged through fabric samples, watercolours, dressed prints and dolls' garments, reveal how women used the material culture of making to record and navigate their lives.Material Lives positions women as makers' in a consumer society. Through fragments of fabric and paper, Dyer explores an innovative way of accessing the lives of otherwise obscured women. For researchers and students of material culture, dress history, consumption, gender and women's history, it offers a rich resource to illuminate the power of needles, paintbrushes and scissors.Trade ReviewThere is something deeply moving about encountering eighteenth-century women via the things they stitched, wore, cut, drew and painted. Richly detailed, evocative and precise – as well as beautifully illustrated – Material Lives has much in common with the intricate, creative women's work that Dyer studies in this book. * Hannah Greig, University of York, UK *Serena Dyer’s lavishly illustrated and brilliantly researched book calls for us to rethink the immense cultural power of the “needles, brushes, glue and scissors” that four Georgian women used to fashion new versions of history. It is a compelling read. * Alison Matthews David, Ryerson University, Canada *A meticulous, insightful and intimate reconstruction of how four genteel women recorded and memorialized their lives through ‘material life writing’ ... [and] a compelling vision of women’s engagement in the eighteenth-century world of goods as knowledgeable, skilful and creative makers. * Karen Harvey, University of Birmingham, UK *This splendid book portrays the unforgettable world of female imagination, skill and artistic talent that shaped consumer identity in the eighteenth century. * Giorgio Riello, University of Warwick, UK *Material Lives offers a brilliant re-evaluation of eighteenth-century women’s lives through their craft practices. Organised around four rich case studies, Dyer’s book eloquently questions the presumed primacy of the textual archive and models an innovative interdisciplinary methodology that has far-reaching repercussions for the study of women’s history. * Jennie Batchelor, University of Kent, UK *Table of ContentsList of Illustrations List of Charts and Tables Acknowledgements List of Abbreviations 1. Introduction: Making Material Lives Material Life Writing The Consumer Culture of Making Four Material Lives 2. Material Accounting: A Sartorial Account Book Barbara Johnson (1738–1825) Educating Barbara Johnson Accounting for Herself Material Literacy A Chronicle of Fashion 3. Dress of the Year: Watercolours Ann Frankland Lewis (1757–1842) Sartorial Timekeeping and the Fashion Plate Accomplishment and Creative Practice Society and Fashionable Display Selfhood, Emotion and the Mourning Watercolours 4. Adorned in Silk: Dressed Prints Sabine Winn (1734–1798) Paper Textiles, Dress and the Dressed Print Sabine Winn’s Dressed Prints Print and Making at Nostell 5. Fashions in Miniature: Dolls Laetitia Powell (1741–1801) The Powell Dolls Mimetic Dolls and Miniature Selves Dolls as Sartorial Social Narrators 6. Conclusion: Material Afterlives Glossary Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisFrom cinema's silent beginnings, fashion and interior design have been vital to character development and narrative structure. Despite spectacular technological advancements on screen, stunning silhouettes and striking spaces still have the ability to dazzle to dramatic effect. This book is the first to consider the significant interplay between fashion and interiors and their combined contribution to cinematic style from early film to the digital age.With examples from Frank Lloyd Wright inspired architecture in Hitchcock's North by Northwest, to Coco Chanel's costumes for Gloria Swanson and a Great Gatsby film-set turned Ralph Lauren flagship, Cinematic Style describes the reciprocal relationship between these cultural forms. Exposing the bleeding lines between fashion and interiors in cinematic and real-life contexts, Berry presents case studies of cinematic styles adopted as brand identities and design movements promoted through filmic fantasy.Shedding light onTrade ReviewCinematic Style approaches the long-term disciplinary distinction between fashion, architectural decor and interior design through the lens of cinema, arguing for the interconnectivity of these fields. Abundantly illustrated, with an approachable writing style and innovative story line, it is an essential read for scholars of the domestic, commercial, or fictive interior, fashion historians, architects and historic preservationists alike. * Anca Lasc, Pratt Institute, USA *Berry brings themes from feminist theory, and to a lesser degree, Queer theory, to bear on this slice through film history to consider intersections between fashion, design and groupings of films (many canonical) from the 1920s and 1930s, the mid- and late 20th-century, and more recent examples. Anyone with an interest in masquerade, transformation, performativity, staging, interiority, gender, and sexuality, as well as camp, Queer nostalgia, and Queer heterotopias, fashion and luxury, will find much to intrigue them in here. * Pat Kirkham, Kingston School of Art, UK *Table of ContentsList of Figures Acknowledgements Introduction: Cinematic Style—Fashion, Architecture and the Interior on Film 1. Bedrooms, Boudoirs and Bathrooms: Modern Women, Seductive Spaces and Spectacular Silhouettes 2. Evil Lairs and Bachelor Dandies: Modernist Architecture, Spies and the Suit 3. Luxurious Longings: Queer Heterotopias in Décor and Dress 4. Grand Entrances: Staircases, Stages and Fashion Parades 5. Windows and Screens: Cinema, Department Stores and Boutique Displays 6. Dream Spaces: Film Sets as Fashion Flagships and Experiential Retail Environments Conclusion Notes Filmography Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisBonnie English was Associate Professor in Art History & Theory at the Queensland College of Art, Griffith University, Brisbane, Australia.Nazanin Hedayat Munroe is Director of Textiles and Assistant Professor of Business & Technology of Fashion at the NYC College of Technology - CUNY, where she lectures on textiles, historic dress, and contemporary issues in the fashion industry. A former Educator at the Metropolitan Museum, Nazanin is also a nationally acclaimed textile artist.Trade ReviewThis edition has been updated to include key developments in fashion consumption and production, such as the impact of digital technology, climate change, economic downturns and geo-political shifts. It provides a comprehensive overview of the cultural history and future of fashion for students and researchers alike. -- Caroline Alexander, Senior Lecturer, BA Fashion, Kingston School of Art, UKPraise for the previous edition: This book has been adopted as a textbook in fashion schools and it is easy to see why. It's a solid introduction to fashion history and to the significant social importance of fashion. The language is accessible and its coverage of relevant issues ...comprehensive. [It] is a good balance of interesting anecdotes and modern fashion theory, which means the book will appeal to both the general reader and to fashion scholars. -- TRCEnglish has created a very respectable academic treatment of the last century of fashion... What is most notable about the content of this volume is the way English handles her broad topic; there are some powerful fashion images in this book, but this is no pretty coffee table accessory. English selects unique subjects within fashion for each chapter and zeroes in to prevent a deluge of meaningless and broad historical summaries. -- WORN Fashion JournalThis new edition of Bonnie English's invaluable introduction to the cultural perspectives on fashion in the twentieth century expands upon her original text, covering and updating her investigation of both the commercial and cultural aspects of fashion. Situating fashion as both intercontextual and interdisciplinary, English provides a solid grounding of issues, concerns and debates that are essential to understand for any scholar of fashion. -- Shaun Cole, London College of Fashion, UKThis edition has encompassed all the intricacies of the fashion world and refreshingly included insight into the ‘business’ of the industry. A valuable tool for opening up the fashion world to students, and a one-stop read that will be entertaining for ‘fashionistas’ who are keen to learn more about the mysteries of fashion. -- Kay McMahon, Queensland University of Technology, Australia[T]his book has a fine, thoughtful, well-researched approach to the subject of 20th- and 21st-century fashion history. I can imagine that a new student would be very inspired by this volume, having gotten a taste of the philosophy of Quentin Bell, an introduction to Yamamoto and Yves Saint Laurent, and a broad but nuanced sense of the chronology of cultural historical events and ideas. Laying a dynamic and intriguing groundwork for lifelong study, A Cultural History of Fashion in the 20th and 21st Centuries would be an excellent starting point. -- Worn Through, Arianna FunkGives a comprehensive history of fashion in the 20th and 21st centuries, including fashion trends, influential designers and much much more... A fascinating fashion history text which is also surprisingly readable. -- We Heart Vintage, Mary MicourisIt's a great book to understand both the main actors and the more informal links of fashion labels in the field. -- Alexander Bretz, Mediadesign Fachhochschule, University of Applied Sciences, GermanyTable of ContentsIntroduction 1.The Commercialization of Fashion Dress and Society in Europe Before the Twentieth Century Social Implications of Dress The Rise of Haute Couture Charles Frederick Worth The Rise of Consumerism The Social Equalizer of the Department Store 2.The Artistry of Fashion Artist-Led Workshops Haute Couture at the Turn of the Twentieth Century Paul Poiret: King of Fashion The Goddess Silhouettes of Vionnet and Fortuny Sonia Delaunay: Simultaneous Contrast of Colours Elsa Schiaparelli: Surrealism in Fashion 3.The Democratization of Fashion Changes in Commerce and Social Structure The Art of Fashion Advertising Flooding the American Market: Reproductions and Fakes Coco Chanel: Pauvreté De Luxe Jean Patou: Style meets Scandal Fashion and Functionalist Theory Stepanova and Popova: Russian Constructivism Dressing Thousands: The Birth of Prêt-À-Porter 4.The Americanization of Fashion Slop Shops, Sweatshops, and Factory Work Fit and Function Piracy in Fashion American Couture The ‘American Look’ in Ready-to-Wear Changes in Menswear: Shirts, Jeans, and Suits Fashion in Film: Costume Designer as Couturier Fashion as Sociopolitical Statement: Zoot Suits 5.The Popularization of Fashion Haute Couture Following the Second World War Christobal Balenciaga Christian Dior Yves Saint Laurent André Courrèges Pierre Cardin Clothing and Popular Culture The Swinging ‘60s in London Mary Quant Alternative Fashion Zandra Rhodes Laura Ashley 6.The Postmodernization of Fashion Postmodernism in Fashion and Art The Rejection of Fashion Vivienne Westwood: Anarchy as Inspiration Fashion and Music Anti-Fashion as Feminism Japanese Conceptual Fashion: Miyake, Yamamoto and Kawakubo Redefining Popular Culture Through Heritage Contextualization 7.The Deviance of Fashion Franco Moschino Viktor & Rolf Martin Margiela Alexander McQueen Harajuku Street Fashion Fashion Imagery and Notions of Gender Construction The Reinvention of Menswear 8.The Lifestyle of Fashion American Sportswear Designers Ralph Lauren Calvin Klein Donna Karan Redefining Womenswear: Power Dressing Fashion as Ideological Billboard Street Style on the Catwalk 9.The Corporatization of Fashion Global Conglomerates LVMH: The Super Syndicate Luxury Heritage Branding The Designer as Product Fashion as Philanthropy and Installation Perfume: A License to Make Money The Death of Haute Couture? Counterfeit Chic Ecommerce and Online Shopping 10.The Sustainability of Fashion The Origins of Disposable Fashion Industry Issues: Waste, Pollution, and Labour Sustainable Alternatives Green is the New Black Vintage Clothing as Recycling Other Sustainable Approaches Ethical Concerns 11.The Digitization of Fashion Virtual Couture Technology in Fashion: A brief history Fashion and Technology in the 21st Century Hussein Chalayan Iris van Herpen Fashion as Future and Fantasy Representation and Inclusivity in Fashion Conclusion Notes Glossary Bibliography

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Book SynopsisFashion travels. Every new shape of sleeve, each novel method of cutting and any innovation in fabric has spread through complex networks of makers, retailers and consumers. Disseminating Dress represents the first historical study of how these networks of fashion communication functioned and evolved in an increasingly global material world. Focussing on Britain separated from mainland Europe, yet increasingly globally-linked this volume will trace how dress was disseminated in and out of one island nation. The paths made by print, image and commodities around the globe have enabled historians to reimagine a connected material world. The influence of innovations in dissemination shape this volume, which asks urgent questions about the extent of global influence on fashion, and the intertwining nature of written, printed, visual and material fashion news. This collection brings together innovative scholarship from an interdisciplinary group of historians, art historians and fasTrade ReviewInnovative, wide-ranging, and thought-provoking, Disseminating Dress explores how individuals in pre-digital Britain engaged with makers, magazines, advertising and the views of friends and family in order to successfully negotiate how, when and where to acquire their fashionable wardrobe. * Maria Hayward, University of Southampton, UK *Table of ContentsList of Plates List of Figures List of Tables Notes on Contributors Acknowledgements 1. Introduction: Fashion Travels Serena Dyer, De Montfort University, UK, Jade Halbert, University of Huddersfield, UK, and Sophie Littlewood, Welbeck Abbey, UK Part I: Modes of Dissemination 2. Dolled Up: The Material Dissemination of Dress in Early Modern Europe Sophie Pitman, Aalto University, Finland 3. A Shared World of Words? The Circulation and Dissemination of Clothing Descriptions in Eighteenth-Century England Elizabeth Spencer, University of York, UK 4. Fashions of the Day: Materiality, Temporality and the Fashion Plate, 1750–1879 Serena Dyer, De Montfort University, UK 5. The Talking Page: Dress Transmission in Jane Austen's Writings Hilary Davidson, University of Sydney, Australia 6. Global Networks of Fashion: The Design and Circulation of British Printed Textiles for Export to West Africa, c.1870–1914 Josephine Tierney, University of Warwick, UK 7. Propaganda, Patriotism and Rivalry: How the Interests of the Trade Press Shaped British Fashion Following the Second World War Bethan Bide, University of Leeds, UK 8. Location, London: Promoting British Ready-to-Wear 1959–1966 Liz Tregenza, Independent Scholar Part II: Dissemination in Practice 9. Making doublets and disseminating fashions in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries Rebecca Unsworth, Birmingham Museums Trust, UK 10. Lady Charlotte Campbell and Fashionable Neoclassicism Amelia Rauser, Franklin and Marshall College, USA 11. Sent to the Other Side of the World: The Fashion for Shetland Fine Lace Knitting in Australia Roslyn Chapman, University of Glasgow, UK 12. Reporting Royal Dress: Queen Alexandra and Royal Image Making Kate Strasdin, Falmouth University, UK 13. Twentieth-Century Clothing Wholesale and the Dissemination of Mass Fashion in Birmingham and the Black Country Jenny Gilbert, University of Wolverhampton, UK 14. Conclusion Serena Dyer, Jade Halbert, and Sophie Littlewood Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisSerena Dyer is Early Career Academic Fellow at De Montfort University, UK. She was previously Curator of the Museum of Domestic Design and Architecture, and is the author of Material Lives: Women Makers and Consumer Culture in the 18th Century (Bloomsbury, 2021).Jade Halbert is Lecturer in Design Studies at the University of Leeds, UK. She is a historian of the British fashion industry and fashion business in the post-war period.Sophie Littlewood is the Curator of the Portland Collection at Welbeck Abbey, UK. She specializes in early modern portraiture, dress and armour.Trade ReviewInnovative, wide-ranging, and thought-provoking, Disseminating Dress explores how individuals in pre-digital Britain engaged with makers, magazines, advertising and the views of friends and family in order to successfully negotiate how, when and where to acquire their fashionable wardrobe. * Maria Hayward, University of Southampton, UK *Table of ContentsList of Plates List of Figures List of Tables Notes on Contributors Acknowledgements 1. Introduction: Fashion Travels Serena Dyer, De Montfort University, UK, Jade Halbert, University of Huddersfield, UK, and Sophie Littlewood, Welbeck Abbey, UK Part I: Modes of Dissemination 2. Dolled Up: The Material Dissemination of Dress in Early Modern Europe Sophie Pitman, Aalto University, Finland 3. A Shared World of Words? The Circulation and Dissemination of Clothing Descriptions in Eighteenth-Century England Elizabeth Spencer, University of York, UK 4. Fashions of the Day: Materiality, Temporality and the Fashion Plate, 1750–1879 Serena Dyer, De Montfort University, UK 5. The Talking Page: Dress Transmission in Jane Austen's Writings Hilary Davidson, University of Sydney, Australia 6. Global Networks of Fashion: The Design and Circulation of British Printed Textiles for Export to West Africa, c.1870–1914 Josephine Tierney, University of Warwick, UK 7. Propaganda, Patriotism and Rivalry: How the Interests of the Trade Press Shaped British Fashion Following the Second World War Bethan Bide, University of Leeds, UK 8. Location, London: Promoting British Ready-to-Wear 1959–1966 Liz Tregenza, Independent Scholar Part II: Dissemination in Practice 9. Making doublets and disseminating fashions in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries Rebecca Unsworth, Birmingham Museums Trust, UK 10. Lady Charlotte Campbell and Fashionable Neoclassicism Amelia Rauser, Franklin and Marshall College, USA 11. Sent to the Other Side of the World: The Fashion for Shetland Fine Lace Knitting in Australia Roslyn Chapman, University of Glasgow, UK 12. Reporting Royal Dress: Queen Alexandra and Royal Image Making Kate Strasdin, Falmouth University, UK 13. Twentieth-Century Clothing Wholesale and the Dissemination of Mass Fashion in Birmingham and the Black Country Jenny Gilbert, University of Wolverhampton, UK 14. Conclusion Serena Dyer, Jade Halbert, and Sophie Littlewood Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisHow has the fashion industry responded to turn-of-the-millennium non-binary identities? Do they have a supportive or exploitative relationship with queer, trans and ageing subjects? Fashion, Identity, Image unpacks these questions and many more in relation to clothing and representation, identity and body politics in British, European and American culture between 1990 and 2020. Jobling, Nesbitt and Wong explore issues of intersectionality and inclusivity through groundbreaking shows, including Maria Grazia Chiuri's We Should All Be Feminists' catwalk show for Dior (Spring-Summer 2017), Alexander McQueen's The Widows of Culloden' collection (Fall-Winter 2006), and the role of transgender models such as Oslo Grace since 2015. Looking to the future of our relationship with fashion, there''s also an investigation of the android as a redemptive figure in Alessandro Michele's cross-cultural cyborg collection for Gucci (Autumn-Winter 2018/2019) and the impact of the ageing pTrade ReviewGives currency to the importance of fashion as an arbiter of change at a time when the multiplicity and fragmentation of gender is affecting the ways we perceive and experience our bodies and our identities. Its contents will incite ideas and heated debates and I am sure it will be a book whose pages will be well-thumbed and whose subject matter will make for long and passionate arguments and conversations. -- Vicki Karaminas, Massey University, New ZealandUtilizing recent and historic examples, the authors offer a robust account of the role of the fashion industry in creating age, race, gender, and posthuman identities, both actual and fantastic. I finished this book with inspiration for my teaching and research. -- Andrew Reilly, University of Hawai`i, Manoa,Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Acknowledgements Introduction 1. Authoring Fashion, Intersecting Sex and Gender Introduction Maria Grazia Chiuri’s ‘We Should All Be Feminists’ T-Shirt for Christian Dior: Branding, identity and authorship Between the womb and the gay parade: Alexander McQueen’s ‘The Widows of Culloden’ as poetic text Subverting the symbolic order: McQueen’s abject woman Conclusion: Squaring up to the phallic mother Notes 2. Written on the body: Fashion, clothing and age Introduction ‘Active ageing’, youthfulness and fashion ‘Fashion For All Ages’ and the new old model army Race and reversing convention Conclusion: From idiotic methods to the realities of time and place Notes 3. (Un)Gendering the runway Introduction Forerunners of transgender and non-binary identities in fashion The advent of transgendered models The abject trans-model Between abjection and acceptance ‘Come into the (trans)garden’: The heterotopia of fashion The authentic self Other models: Intersectionality and wider diversity in the fashion industry Tokenism versus activism Conclusion: Between tokenism and authenticity Notes 4. Loving the alien: Fashion and cyborg identities Introduction Andrea Giacobbe and ‘Simplex Concordia’ Alessandro Michele and the Gucci Cyborg Compromising race and diversity A ‘genuine cyborg manifesto’? Conclusion: Towards emancipatory possibilities Notes Epilogue

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Book SynopsisThe Covid-19 pandemic heightened people's awareness of long-standing inequalities within the fashion industry. Amid calls for greater accountability and ethical awareness, efforts are being made within and beyond the industry, chiefly in the cultural and education sectors, to decentralize fashion: to make the conception, creation and consumption of fashionable dress and appearance less western'-centric.Supporting this premise, Hang-Ups argues that purposeful and permanent change within the fashion industry and fashion education is more likely if it is understood how the contemporary industry became western'-centric. To institute effective change, it is necessary to revert to first principles and understand how the fashion industry developed into what it is today. During a period when the concepts of fashion, history and culture are being intensely scrutinized, and with suggestions they are reaching their nadir, the imperative to understand the extent to which Trade ReviewA thoughtfully researched, carefully crafted and wildly engaging inquiry that is essential reading for all of us in fashion committed to bringing about social justice. * Ben Barry, Parsons School of Design, USA *An important and timely work that belongs on the bookshelves of serious fashion students as well as those involved in the design and promotion of fashion products. * Linda Welters, University of Rhode Island, USA *Sometimes a book come along that stops you dead in your tracks and makes you seriously think that change is long overdue. Hang-ups is one of those brave books. * Vicki Karaminas, Massey University, New Zealand *A timely book that dialogues with the complicated multidimensional dynamics of fashion and dress … Utilizes historic and culture guideposts to challenge assumptions, colonialism, paradigms, and ‘western’ trappings and tropes. * Therèsa M. Winge, Michigan State University, USA *Table of ContentsAcknowledgements Introduction 1. Undress 2. Gender 3. Race 4. Sexuality 5. Age 6. Religion 7. Wealth 8. Violence 9. Shape Conclusion Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisAll publicity is good publicity? Perhaps not. In recent years, multiple local and global fashion brands have been called out for cultural appropriation, racism, misogyny, and even flirting with fascism.Understanding Fashion Scandals is the first book to explore this changing landscape of contemporary fashion through case studies showing how shock value' lost its currency. The book focuses on the changes since the late-1970s and early 1980s, when brands like Calvin Klein and Benetton first used controversy as a promotional tool to build their brand identity, to the contemporary industry where avoiding social media backlash is critical to survival.Analyzing the tactics brands including Burberry, Dior, Dolce & Gabbana and Prada adopt to avoid or mitigate scandals, Vänskä and Gurova map the fashion industry's journey towards cultural sustainability.Trade ReviewThis is a fresh, updated and comprehensive book on the phenomenon of fashion scandals, which has gained media and consumer attention in recent years. The reader will find both rich case studies and an analysis of how fashion scandals deal with broader processes such as mediatization and cultural appropriation. -- Dr Marco Pedroni, University of Ferrara, ItalyA thought-provoking read looking at an important dynamic within the contemporary fashion and advertising worlds. The authors not only interrogate a variety of scandals, but offer an important framework for understanding contemporary fashion communication. -- Dr. Myles Ethan Lascity, Southern Methodist University, USAThis is a smart, rich and engaging analysis of fashion scandals as engines of media attention and as sites of everyday politics. Recommended reading for everyone interested in how fashion matters in the making of identities, cross-cultural connections and sustainable futures. -- Susanna Paasonen, Professor of Media Studies, University of Turku, FinlandA timely and original introduction to the complex politics of the "fashion scandal," investigated as a brand strategy in the age of global communication and social media. -- Hazel Clark, Professor of Design Studies and Fashion Studies, Parsons School of Design, The New School, New York, USATable of ContentsIntroduction The Two Types of Fashion Scandals Scandal as Politicization of Fashion Decolonizing Fashion Positioning Ourselves Epistemic Positionings Structure of the Book PART ONE THE FASHION SCANDAL—PAST AND PRESENT 1. Framing the Fashion Scandal: The Platformization of Fashion Visualization of Fashion Mediatization of Fashion Social Media and the Platformization of Fashion The Instagramification of Fashion 2. Fashion Brands Negotiating Identity Politics Cultural Approach to Brands and Branding Negotiating Identity Politics 3. Changing Strategies of Fashion Brands: From Shock to Scandal A Short History of the Fashion Scandal: Deliberate Shock Contemporary Shock: The Unintentional Scandal Social Media and New Identity Politics Dismantling White Privilege and Introducing Intersectionality to Fashion 4. Emotional Effects of Social Media on Fashion: Calling-out and Canceling Emotional Branding Emotional Reactions and Canceling New Cultural Intermediaries and the Creation of the Unintentional Scandal Consumers Empowered to Speak Up What if a Brand is Canceled? PART TWO CASE STUDIES 5. Russia Love is (Not Just) Love Feminist Resistance in a Conservative World Race Across Time and Space 6. Finland Maternity Clothes for 12-Year-Old African Girls Flirting with Fascists 7. Global Scandals Whose Identity? The Problem with “Cultural Appropriation” Casual Racism: “Eating with Chopsticks” Blackface and Structural Racism in the Fashion Industry “Mental Health is not Fashion” PART THREE THE RESPONSE TO FASHION SCANDALS 8. Just Don’t Do It! Corporate World Response, Part One: Corporate Social Responsibility Corporate World Response, Part Two: Brands as Political Actors Corporate World Response, Part Three: Diversity Officers Academic Response, Part One: The Danger of “Diversity Washing” Academic Response, Part Two: the “Glossification of Diversity” Academic Response, Part Three: Reimagining the Fashion Curriculum Political Response, Part One: Supply Chains and Human Rights Political Response, Part Two: Advocacy Groups Benchmarking Business Conclusion: A Call for Cultural and Social Sustainability PART FOUR EPILOG 9. The Counter Narrative Heidi Karjalainen, Finland Ervin Latimer, Finland Jahnkoy, USA Claudia Lepik, Estonia Muslin Brothers, Belgium Kristian David, Sweden Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisFashioning James Bond is the first book to study the costumes and fashions of the James Bond movie franchise, from Sean Connery in 1962''s Dr No to Daniel Craig in Spectre (2015). Llewella Chapman draws on original archival research, close analysis of the costumes and fashion brands featured in the Bond films, interviews with families of tailors and shirt-makers who assisted in creating the look' of James Bond, and considers marketing strategies for the films and tie-in merchandise that promoted the idea of an aspirational James Bond lifestyle'.Addressing each Bond film in turn, Chapman questions why costumes are an important tool for analysing and evaluating film, both in terms of the development of gender and identity in the James Bond film franchise in relation to character, and how it evokes the desire in audiences to become part of a specific lifestyle construct through the wearing of fashions as seen on screen. She researches the agency of the costume departmTrade ReviewIntensely refreshing … This indispensable book opens up the closet on six decades of Bond clothing. Like Bond with his fashion choices, Dr Chapman bends the rules, refusing to confine herself to a single gender. For once, it’s not merely the men’s garments garnering all of the attention … a useful reference work for years to come - for men, women and those who are both, or neither. * Licence to Queer *A brilliantly researched survey that charts changing styles and examines how the Bond "look" influenced movie-goers' lifestyle aspirations and attracted brand placement, and how each 007 actor made those emblematic tuxedos their "own". * The Australian *This book uncovers the ingenuity involved in creating the costumes in James Bond films. From design to performance, it provides a thorough and insightful study of the many ways in which key characters were dressed both to impress and to kill. -- Sarah Street, University of Bristol, UKThis thoroughly researched and original book offers a comprehensive look at the role of fashion as an essential part of the James Bond films from the early 1960s to today. It is engagingly written and shows how sartorial design and elements of mise-en-scène have contributed to the fictional world of the 007 and film production more generally. By contextualizing the use of fashion in the James Bond films, it raises important questions on how the specific choices during the production processes had a seismic effect on costume, gender and identity. -- Tobias Hochscherf, Kiel University of Applied Sciences & Flensburg University, GermanyFashioning James Bond provides a fascinating and comprehensive history of fashion in, and inspired by the James Bond Franchise. The book draws on thorough archival research and as such provides a unique insight into the process of costuming Bond – bringing together production studies, textual analysis and fashion history. -- Claire Jenkins, University of Leicester, UKLlewella Chapman’s Fashioning James Bond is an exciting contribution to Bond studies and beyond in its focus on the vital role played by costume and fashion in film with the accompanying questions of agency, labour and issues of gender that lie behind the image of the smartly tailored suits iconic to the franchise. Fashioning James Bond is meticulously assembled using its sources to give attention to the evolutions in 007's wardrobe and style. In this book Chapman gives us a wonderful historical account of how James Bond and also other characters in the films have been fashioned over the years, to provide detail on the costumes and those involved in bringing them to the screen. With this account Chapman reveals that if we look beneath the surface style and past the Savile Row mythology there is opportunity to closely examine an important part of the world of James Bond. -- Claire Hines, University of East Anglia, UKLike the fine detail on a GoldenEye Brioni suit, Oscar de le Renta gown from Licence to Kill or Angelo Vitucci piece from The Spy Who Loved Me, the glory of Chapman’s project here is in the research stitching and the academic fabric of her execution … From anecdotes about the cutters of London’s W1 to the tailoring wars, the boutique rivalries and the unwieldy eccentrics through to how a Bond actor walks into that world and the ideas bounce about again, this is a cracking study of what is more than brand identity and onscreen heroism. -- Mark O’ConnellIntensely refreshing … This indispensable book opens up the closet on six decades of Bond clothing. Like Bond with his fashion choices, Dr Chapman bends the rules, refusing to confine herself to a single gender. For once, it’s not merely the men’s garments garnering all of the attention … a useful reference work for years to come - for men, women and those who are both, or neither. * Licence to Queer *Table of ContentsIntroduction 1: ‘My tailor… Savile Row’: Sean Connery (1962) 2: ‘Fitting Fleming’s hero’: Sean Connery (1963-1967) 3: The Man with the Midas touch: Lifestyle, fashion and marketing in the 1960s 4: ‘Coming out of Burton’s short of credit’: George Lazenby (1969) 5: ‘Provided the collars and the cuffs match’: Sean Connery (1971) 6: ‘Licence to frill’: Roger Moore (1971-1975) 7: Breaking his tailor’s heart: Roger Moore (1976-1980) 8: ‘You can always spot a Hayward’: Roger Moore (1980-1985) 9: Licence to tailor revoked: Timothy Dalton (1987-1989) 10: Cool Brioni: Pierce Brosnan (1995-2002) 11: Slick trigger suits: Daniel Craig (2005-2008) 12.You travel with a tuxedo? Daniel Craig (2010 – 2015) Conclusion Appendix Glossary Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisFor centuries, the peoples of Sub-Saharan Africa have been producing domestic and professional embroidery to decorate themselves, their families, clients, homes and public spaces. Embroidery is an expression of artistic, personal, family, regional and even political creativity which has played an important role in the social and cultural lives of people throughout the region. It has also reflected economic and political changes over time as well as social, religious and artistic contexts. This is the first reference work to describe the history of embroidery throughout Africa south of the Sahara from the early modern period through to the present. From quilted armour to embroidered caps and leather sandals, it offers an authoritative guide to all the major embroidery traditions of the region and a detailed examination of the material, technical, artistic and design dimensions of the subject.Generously illustrated with 395 images (362 in colour) of clothes, accessoTable of ContentsPreface Acknowledgements Table of Contents Section 1: Background Information 1. Introduction 2. Fibres, threads and ground materials 3. Embroidery tools, techniques and makers 4. Uses, designs and designers Section 2: Historical Embroideries 5. Archaeological and historical evidence for textiles and embroidery 6. Snapshot: Embroidered West African Gowns in the Museum Ulm, Germany 7. Snapshot: An early ‘velvet’ embroidery Section 3: Embroideries from the Sahel 8. Introduction 9. Embroidered men’s trousers from the Sahel 10. Snapshot: Mandinka embroidered garments 11. Embroidery from Mali 12. Snapshot: Kanem-Bornu embroidered garments 13. Snapshot: The Tuaregs and embroidery 14. Snapshot: Wodaabe embroidery 15. Quilted armour from the Sahel Section 4: Embroideries from West Africa 16. Introduction 17. Embroidered garments and caps from Senegal and The Gambia 18. Snapshot: Stitch resist-dyeing from Senegal 19. Snapshot: Two 19th century embroideries from Sierra Leone 20. Liberian embroidery and quilting 21. Embroidery from Burkina Faso 22. Embroidery from Ghana 23. Fante and Fon appliqué flags 24. Embroidery from Togo 25. Hausa embroidery techniques from northern and northwestern Nigeria 26. Embroideries from southern and central Nigeria 27. Nigerian embroidered headwear for men 28. The West African boubou and the north Nigerian babban riga 29. Snapshot: The Queen Amina embroiderers 30. Appliquéd and embroidered garments from Cameroon Section 5: Embroideries from Central Africa 31. Introduction 32. Embroidery, appliqué and patchwork from Congo Kinshasa 33. Kuba cut-pile ‘velvet’ embroidery Section 6: Embroideries from East and Northeast Africa 34. Introduction 35. Snapshot: Embroidered milaya from South Sudan 36. Embroidery from Eritrea 37. Embroidery from Ethiopia 38. Snapshot: Capt. Speedy’s ‘Ethiopian’ caps 39. Snapshot: Appliqué and embroidered bark cloth from Uganda 40. Snapshot: The Savane Kabuye embroidery workshop from Rwanda 41. Snapshot: East African-Omani embroidered caps 42. Snapshot: East and northeast African embroidered leather sandals 43. Snapshot: Some recent embroidery groups in East Africa Section 7: Embroideries from Southern Africa 44. Introduction 45. Embroidery from Madagascar 46. Embroidered bark cloth from Zambia 47. Snapshot: The Rhodesian Tapestry: A history in needlework 48. Embroidery and South Africa 49. Snapshot: Embroidered Tsonga minceka Appendix 1a: List of stitches with drawings Appendix 1b: Alphabetical list of stitches Bibliography Index

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