Fashion and textile design Books

Book SynopsisCostume is an active agent for performance-making; it is a material object that embodies ideas shaped through collaborative creative work. A new focus in recent years on research in the area of costume has connected this practice in vital and new ways with theories of the body and embodiment, design practices, artistic and other forms of collaboration. Costume, like fashion and dress, is now viewed as an area of dynamic social significance and not simply as passive reflector of a pre-conceived social state or practice. This book offers new approaches to the study of costume, as well as fresh insights into the better-understood frames of historical, theoretical, practice-based and archival research into costume for performance. This anthology draws on the experience of a global group of established researchers as well as emerging voices. Below is a list of just some of the things it achieves:1. Introduces diverse perspectives, innovative new research methods and approaches for researcTrade ReviewThe ambition and reach of this collection is superb and timely. For those of us working in the area of design, education and practice, this is the book we have been waiting for. [...] Performance Costume contains diverse, yet complementary, perspectives offering a rich and textured resource and is the most significant contribution to the expanded field of costume studies to date. * Studies in Costume & Performance *Performance Costume does an impressive job at covering many areas in the complex world of costume design ... In spite of its expansive scope, this compilation can serve as a useful overview for aspiring costume designers seeking a deeper appreciation for the craft and any reader interested in academic costume theory and research. * Journal of Dress History *A truly pioneering exploration and discovery of new fields of costume study, Performance Costume is the first of its kind. It broadens costume study from within the theatre to consider the design process and its practices and, significantly, aspects of wearing and social significance, looking at TV, cinema, schools, hospitals and the street, alongside theatre. Terrifically stimulating and important ... * Christopher Baugh, University of Leeds, UK *An invaluable resource that is authoritative, international in scope, timely, and riveting. It is unique in its breadth of material, methodologies, and combination of contributions by academic and theatre practitioners in articles and 'snapshots'. * Patricia Lennox, New York University, USA *Table of ContentsList of Figures Notes on Contributors Foreword - Maija Pekkanen (Costume Designer, Finland) Foreword - Simona Rybáková (Costume Designer, Czech Republic) Acknowledgements Introduction: Activating Costume: A New Approach to Costume for Performance - Sofia Pantouvaki (Aalto University, Finland) and Peter McNeil (University of Technology Sydney, Australia) Section 1: Interpreting and Curating Costume 1.1 Real or Virtual?: Studying Historical Costume Drawings and Sketches - Margaret Mitchell (University of the Incarnate Word in San Antonio, Texas, USA) 1.2 Cooking: Studying Film Costume Design - Drake Stutesman (Barrymore Film Center, Fort Lee, USA) 1.3 Displaying Stage Costumes: Exhibitions at the National Centre for Stage Costume, France - Delphine Pinasa (Centre National de Costume de Scène, France) Snapshots 1.4. Cross Cultural Costume Research: Beijing Opera Costumes - Alexandra B. Bonds (University of Oregon, USA) 1.5. Reading Maltese Carnival Costumes - Vicki Ann Cremona (University of Malta) 1.6. Curating Costume – Reflection - Aoife Monks (Queen Mary, University of London, UK) Section 2: Personalities in Costume 2.1. Costume Centre Stage: Re-Membering Ellen Terry (1847-1928) - Veronica Isaac (university lecturer and freelance consultant, UK) 2.2. ‘On and Off the Stage’: Costume, Dress, and Locating the Actor-Manager’s Identity, 1870-1900 - Helen Margaret Walter (Plymouth University and the University for the Creative Arts, Epsom, UK) 2.3. Extravagance, Expense and Notoriety: Gaby Deslys’ French Costumes in America, 1911-14 - Emily Brayshaw (University of Technology Sydney (UTS), Australia) Snapshots 2.4. A Foreign Affair On and Off Screen - Christina M. Johnson (FIDM Museum at the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising, Los Angeles, USA) 2.5. Recording Costume Design in the Theatre and Performance Collections at the V&A: Vivien Leigh and Oliver Messel - Keith Lodwick (Victoria and Albert Museum, UK) Section 3: Costume Voices, Costume Histories 3.1. The First Premiere and Other Stories: Towards a History of the Costume Design Profession in Finland - Joanna Weckman (independent post-doctoral costume researcher, exhibition curator, lecturer and costume designer, Finland) 3.2. Spinning Yarns: Locating, Learning and Listening in the Social World of Popular Hindi Film Costume Production - Clare M. Wilkinson (Washington State University, USA) Snapshots 3.3. Hollywood Costume: A Journey to Curation - Deborah Nadoolman Landis (UCLA David C. Copley Center for Costume Design, USA) 3.4. ‘The Getting of Wisdom’: Learning from Anna Senior - Jennifer Gall (National Film and Sound Archive of Australia) 3.5. Design for TV: Costume and Contemporary Clothing - Chrisi Karvonides-Dushenko (costume designer in theatre, film and television, USA) Section 4: Costume and the Body 4.1. The Body as the Matter of Costume: a Phenomenological Practice - Donatella Barbieri (London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London, UK) 4.2. The Body as Site: Interdisciplinary Approaches to Dress in/as Performance - Jessica Bugg (London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London, UK) 4.3. ‘Aware Wearing’ - a Somatic Costume Design Methodology for Performance - Sally E. Dean (interdisciplinary choreographer, performer, teacher and somatic practitioner, Europe, Asia and USA) Snapshots 4.4. Costuming the Foot: a Designer/Performer’s Personal Artistic Methods - Alexandra Murray-Leslie (artist, researcher, performer and co-founder of the international art collective Chicks on Speed, Australia) 4.5. Costume and the Modernist Body: Fashioning August Strindberg - Viveka Kjellmer (University of Gothenburg, Sweden) Section 5: Costume and its Collaborative Work 5.1. Building Costumes, Building Language in the Costume Workshop - Madeline Taylor (Queensland University of Technology and University of Melbourne, Australia) 5.2. Fitting Threads: Embodied Conversations in the Costume Design Process - Suzanne Osmond (National Institute of Dramatic Art in Sydney, Australia) Snapshots 5.3. Haptic Descriptions – Costume Design by Gillian Gallow and April Viczko - Natalie Rewa (Queen’s University, Canada) 5.4. The Costume Designer´s ‘Golden List’ of Competence - Christina Lindgren (Oslo National Academy of the Arts (KHiO), Norway) Section 6: Costume and Social Impact 6.1. Exploring Rossini’s Berta: Young Audiences and the Agency of Opera Costume - Sofia Pantouvaki (Aalto University, Finland) 6.2. Designing Hospital Clown Costumes: Psychological and Social Benefits for Finnish Children’s Healthcare - Merja Väisänen (Aalto University, Finland) 6.3. Costume of Conflict - Mateja Fajt (independent costume designer and researcher, Slovenia) Snapshots 6.4. From Effect to Affect: the Costumed Body and the Autistic Child - Melissa Trimingham (University of Kent, UK) 6.5. ‘Designing Tsunami’: Costume Evolution from Documentary to Surrealist - Michiko Kitayama Skinner (University of Miami, USA) 6.6. The Collaborative Process of Costume Creation: Travesties in São Paulo - Fausto Viana (São Paulo University (USP), Brazil)

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Book SynopsisWith The Fashion Design Toolkit you'll learn how tried-and-tested techniques like gathers, pleats, tucks, and twists can help you adapt patterns and create your own original garment designs. Tracy Jennings walks you through 18 patterning tactics to inspire fresh ideas, demonstrating how embracing pattern drafting skills can lead to innovative and effective collections. Each technique is illustrated in a variety of contexts, showing how and why it has been used by other designers, so you can use the history of each tool as inspiration for your original collections. Ethical practice is woven throughout the book, with tips on how to implement techniques in an environmentally sustainable way. The 18 essential techniques are divided into 5 categories: Establishing Fit and Flare: Darts, Slash & Spread, Seaming, Insets Channeling Fullness: Gathers, Ruffles, Pleats, Tucks Fashioning the Fluid and Unstructured: Arcs, Flounces, Drapes, Twists Engineering Fabric anTable of ContentsIntroduction 1. Darts 2. Slash and Spread 3. Seaming 4. Insets 5. Textile Designs 6. Gathers 7. Ruffles 8. Pleats 9. Tucks 10. Arcs 11. Flounces 12. Drapes 13. Twists 14. Contouring 15. Reduction 16. Adaptations 17. Structure 18. Zero Waste Edge Finishes Index

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Book SynopsisFashion demands a steady flow of creative ideas. Research and Design for Fashion will guide you through the research techniques that could spark your next original collection.With practical advice on designing effective moodboards, recycling existing garments and getting to know your customer, this new edition will help you master the research process and apply it to your own designs. There''s also a wealth of advice through interviews with exceptional designers, including Christopher Raeburn, ThreeASFOUR and Magdaléna Mikulicáková, as well as updated imagery of the research and design work behind both single garments and entire collections.This fourth edition also explores how cultural events, historical anniversaries and sport influences can be the starting point for a collection. There''s also more on creative ways of recording your findings and designing for menswear, childrenswear and gender-neutral clothing.Trade ReviewA solid foundation for design students to begin their creative journey in an informative and imaginative way, and which delves deep into contemporary issues of experimental cutting, sustainability and new technologies. This is an essential read for any student taking the first step into fashion education and the industry. -- John Lau, London College of Fashion, UKTable of ContentsIntroduction 1. Research—What and Why? What is research? What is the purpose of research? What should research contain? Who are you designing for? Exercise 1: Brainstorming Interview: Veronika Hadjistefanou Interview: Ashish 2. Choosing What to Research Choosing a theme Sources of inspiration Sustainability and ethics Exercise 2: Using primary and secondary research sources Exercise 3: Trends Exercise 4: Recycled garment manipulation Interview: Christopher Raeburn Interview: Dr. Noki 3. Compiling your Research Assembling your research Drawing Collage Analysis of research Sketchbook layout Moodboards Exercise 5: Focus research pages Interview: Magdaléna Mikulicáková Interview: Zowie Broach 4. Designing from your Research Market levels in fashion Genre of clothing Bridging the gap between research and design Model and drape Key elements for design development Design Development Selecting ideas to form a collection Exercise 6: Collaging your research onto figures Exercise 7: Working with the color wheel Exercise 8: Color analysis Exercise 9: Design development Exercise 10: Design development, part 2 Interview: WGSN Interview: Ashley Fletcher 5. Communicating your Ideas Drawing for design Art materials Illustration Technical drawings Layout and composition Beyond the drawing board Exercise 11: Creating a design development six-figure template Exercise 12: Technical drawing by hand Interview: ThreeASFOUR Interview: Shelley Fox Glossary Online resources Bibliography Student resources

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Book SynopsisStories of Fashion, Textiles, and Place follows the journeys of five companies with evolving sustainable supply chains in the fashion and textile industry. Each of the profiled companies are committed to advancing cultural traditions of a particular place. They value, honor, and are all deeply rooted in the geography, culture, and people of a specific location and their success is attributable to their connection to that place. With this shared value, their unique stories highlight the conditions, risks, strategies, and successes in creating and maintaining sustainable supply chains for ready-to-wear and home fashions. The companies include:-Imperial Stock Ranch and Shaniko Wool Company Oregon, USA-Angela Damman Yucatán Yucatán, Mexico-Tonlé Phnom Penh, Cambodia-Indigenous Designs Highlands, Peru-Harris Tweed Outer Hebrides, Scotland, UKWith a focus on economic, social, environmental, and cultural sustainability, and the connection between textiles and place, Burns and CarvTrade ReviewAn eye-opening journey into how sustainable fashion companies can build an economy to increase a global workforce, improve lives, preserve cultures, and reduce their environmental impact. -- Elizabeth Shorrock, West Virginia University, USATable of ContentsPreface 1. Sustainable Supply Chains in the Global Fashion Industry Creating Value and Reflecting Values The Value of Place Sustainable Supply Chains Environmental Sustainability Social and Cultural Sustainability Capacity Building and Employee Empowerment Sustainable Communities Cultural Traditions Economic Sustainability Supply Chain Traceability, Assurance, and Transparency Certifications, Industry Associations, and Partnerships Industry Initiatives, Associations, and Partnerships Learning through Narratives References and Resources 2. Imperial Stock Ranch and Shaniko Wool Company: Natural Adaptations Lambing Season Changing a Mindset: Imperial Stock Ranch, Oregon, USA Starting a Yarn Business: Converting Sunlight Energy From Yarn to Finished Items Ready-to-Wear: Imperial Collection by Anna Cohen Sustainable Bridges: East and West, Rural and Urban The Business Naturally Adapts “The Call” The Power of Purpose beyond Profit Expanding Markets Traceability and Certification A Sense of Place References and Resources 3. Angela Damman Yucatán: Advancing Cultural Traditions A Henequén Bag The Yucatán Peninsula Growing Up in Minnesota, USA Moving to Yucatán Sustainable Agriculture: Cultivating and Processing the Fiber Processing the Fiber: Revitalizing an Industry Shredding, Drying, Combing Dyeing Fibers Revitalizing the Fiber Processing Industry Weaving and Product Development: Advancing Cultural Traditions Facilitating Artisan Groups A New Generation of Weavers Markets and Retailing Cultural Sustainability: Identity, Community, and Purpose References and Resources 4. Tonlé The Mekong and Tonlé Sap Rivers Growing Up The Dichotomy of Cambodian Textiles A Reluctant Businesswoman Transition and Rebranding Zero-waste Model The Artisan Workshop Model The Impact and the Message of Tonlé Today and Tomorrow References and Resources 5. Indigenous Designs: Climbing a Mountain Where Have You Been, My Friend? A Brand Is Born Climbing a Mountain Beyond Ecuador The Artisan Co-op Model Economic Sustainability: Financial Strategies Networks, Organizations, and Certifications Documenting and Communicating Impact Next Steps: Scaling an Artisan Ownership Model References and Resources 6. Harris Tweed®: Às an ghearann tha an t-aodach a’ tighinn / From the Land Comes the Cloth Clò Mòr History of the Harris Tweed Industry Harris Tweed Act 1993 and the Harris Tweed Authority Structure and Supply Chain of Harris Tweed Crofting and Wool Production Processing Wool: The Foundation of Harris Tweed Harris Tweed Mills Washing and Dyeing Wool Blending, Carding, and Spinning Wool Preparing the Warp Textile Design Weaving Harris Tweed Harris Tweed Weavers The Weaving Process Finishing and Inspecting Harris Tweed Marketing Harris Tweed: Power of the Orb Marketing Harris Tweed Markets for Harris Tweed: Tradition and Evolution Using the Harris Tweed Label on Finished Products Protecting the Orb From the People Comes the Cloth References and Resources 7. Creating and Reflecting Values through Sustainable Supply Chains The Value of Place in Sustainable Supply Chains The Value of People in Sustainable Supply Chains The Value of Product in Sustainable Supply Chains Characteristics of the Founders, CEO, Partners, and Artisans References and Resources Epilogue and Recommended Reading

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Book SynopsisFor centuries, the fashion industry has struggled to reconcile style with sustainability. In Historical Perspectives on Sustainable Fashion, you will be transported back in time to discover the historical dimensions of today's sustainable fashion movement. An array of success stories and cautionary tales provide both inspiration and warnings for the eco-conscious designer, encouraging an innovative approach that builds on predecessors' discoveries to move the practice of fashion forward. The 1st edition, Sustainable Fashion: Past, Present and Future, emerged from the Museum at FIT's groundbreaking exhibition Eco-Fashion: Going Green'. This revised edition broadens perspectives even further, incorporating eye-opening examples of designers, brands and activists working for change across the world today. Likewise, a new chapter examines the globalized mainstream fashion system and historical alternatives that provide compelling inspiration for reimagining the status quo.FascTrade ReviewSucceeds in bringing together many of the themes and ideas around ethical fashion. (1st edition) -- CostumeI have really valued this book since it was first published. It is well-written and accessible, but most importantly, through giving the historical perspectives, it shows the antecedents of the issues plaguing fashion now. -- Alice Payne, Queensland University of Technology, AustraliaThe book is aimed at fashion students – its layout, photographs and pitch make it a successful academic text. It is a springboard from which they are invited to delve deeper into the subject. (1st edition) -- Hayley Mildren * Resource *The ecological issues of the present day are pressing and we do not have all the answers. By looking to the lessons of history, fashion designers, manufacturers, consumers and resistors can each gain a deeper understanding of how we got to where we are today, and how we might use past practices as a departure point for radical change and as a sourcebook of inspirational methods to refresh present-day thinking. Through a clear structure, covering Materials and Process, Design and Manufacture, Reuse and Recycling, Labour Practices, and Treatment of Animals, the authors construct a usable past of origin stories and contemporary parallels in the production and consumption of clothing. The historical research sits alongside museum examples of surviving garments, while the contemporary debates engage with the latest arguments and the freshest responses to the urgent need to do fashion differently. By the close of the final chapter, which looks at fashion systems in the round, and encourages imaginative and speculative thinking, readers will be inspired to take up history's gauntlet and find new solutions to fashion's enduring problems. - Annebella Pollen, Professor of Visual and Material Culture, University of Brighton, UKTable of ContentsIntroduction 1. Materials and processes Materials and processes: how did we get here? The development of cotton Wool and its competitors Silk and rayon Synthetic fibers Unconventional materials The invention of synthetic dyes Human impacts of dyeing Environmental impacts of dyeing Materials and processes: inspiration for change Organic cotton The resurgence of wool Hemp and flax Lyocell and bamboo Lower impact dyes Natural dyes Materials and processes: thinking critically Materials and processes: further reading 2. Design and Manufacture Design and manufacture: how did we get here? Clothing production before mechanization Advancements in spinning and weaving The sewing machine and ready-made clothing Choice and disposability Design and manufacture: inspiration for change Wartime restrictions and quality Post-war couture Artisanal techniques and slow fashion5 Design features Design and manufacture: thinking critically Design and manufacture: further reading 3. Reuse and Recycling Reuse and recycling: how did we get here? Repurposing practices Shawls and scraps The Great Depression and the Second World War Shoddy recycling Reuse and recycling: inspiration for change Post-war repurposing The rise of vintage Repurposing and upcycling in the 1990s and 2000 A new era of fiber recycling Reuse and recycling: thinking critically Reuse and recycling: further reading 4. Labor Practices Labor practices: how did we get here? Textile mills Child labor Garment factories Globalization and sweatshops Subcontracting and safety Labor practices: inspiration for change Unionization Labeling Designer-led action Labor rights in a globalized industry Cooperatives and fair trade Labor practices: thinking critically Labor practices: further reading 5. Treatment of Animals Treatment of animals: how did we get here? Feather adornments The use of fur Trapping and farming Treatment of animals: inspiration for change Anti-feather campaigns Anti-fur campaigns Fake and “ethical” fur Treatment of animals: thinking critically Treatment of animals: further reading 6. Fashion systems Fashion systems: how did we get here? Enclosure, capitalism and modernity The European fashion system and the Industrial Revolution Consumerism and change Fashion systems: inspiration for change How clothes are used New approaches to dressing the body Challenging social norms Domestic and custom making Local production and local distinctiveness Restricting and managing production Fashion systems: thinking critically Fashion systems: further reading Conclusion Notes Select bibliography Glossary Index

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Book SynopsisA detailed, step-by-step guide to successfully altering and repairing ready-made apparel that will help you achieve the perfect fit and extend the life of your clothing.Whether you are interested in tailoring your wardrobe, starting a business, or learning a skill that will save you money and the planet, you''ll find what you need through illustrated step-by-step projects and no-nonsense videos. You''ll learn to make alterations to your ready-made clothing, including a variety of hemming techniques and taking in/ letting out seams, and repair methods to fix zippers, tears, and holes. There are also detailed guidelines on more complex techniques, including adjusting suit jacket sleeves, reshaping necklines and even fixing backpacks, tents and bags.Trade ReviewChelsey's passion for teaching comes through vividly in this book. Her knowledge of various alteration techniques will aid anyone learning to sew or complete clothing alterations. There is a growing trend to reduce textile waste by altering or repairing the clothing that would otherwise end up in a landfill. If you would like to contribute to that trend then this book is step one for you. * Sara Holden, Owner, Altered Ego, LLC, USA. *A long-awaited and very welcome addition to my shelf. Chelsey Byrd Lewallen does a masterful job of providing the depth and the detail of repairs, without making assumptions of the reader’s skill level or ability, making this an incredibly accessible text for all levels. * Sarah Mosher, Assistant Professor of Costume Design and Technology in Theatre Arts, Baylor University, USA *Table of ContentsPreface Introduction 1. How to Use this Book and Tools of the Trade How to Use this Book Tools of the Trade Types of Pins Types of Rulers Marking Tools Needles Thread Machines Pressing/ Ironing Hardware and Tools 2. Working with Alterations, Repairs and Clients Before you get started The Bare Necessities Sewing Space The Deluxe Sewing Space Step Two: The Logistics of Clothing Alterations and Repairs Finding the Problem Step Three: Working with clients Identifying fabric Fiber Content Structure: Wovens, Knits, and Nonwovens 3. Bottom Hems Shortening Measuring Pants, Shorts, Skirts and Dresses for Hemming Serge and Blind Hem Three Methods: Blind Hemming Machine, Home Machine Blind Hem, or Hand Stitch Twice Turn Hem Cadet Cut Hem Knitwear Coverstitch Hem Knitwear Faux Coverstitch using a Twin Needle Twice-Turned Hem On Eveningwear and Formalwear Napkin Roll Hem Hand Stitch Hems: Cross Stitch, Vertical Hem Stitch, Prick/ Pick Stitch Cross Stitch Vertical Hem Stitch Prick/ Pick Stitch Lengthening Bottom Hems: Maxing Out Adding Fabric Bias Tape Adding Fabric Adding Lace 4. Top Hems Knitwear Coverstitch Knitwear Faux Coverstitch using a Twin Needle Shirttail Hem Lined Suit Jacket Hem Unlined Suit Jacket Hems Maxing Out Seam Allowance Lengthening Suit Jacket Hems 5. Taking in Bottoms Back Gap Waistbands: Using Elastic Side Seams/ Outseams & Inseam Tips Sample Measurement Table Inseams Darts/Pleats/ Tucks Ease/ Gathers Taking in a Skirt or Pant with a Side Zipper Side Seams Inseams Waistbands: Using Seam Allowance, Elastic, or Gussets Waistbands: Using Seam Allowance Waistbands: Using Elastic Waistbands: Using Gussets/ Farbic Panels 6. Letting Out Bottoms Side Seams Inseams Waistbands: Using Seam Allowance, Elastic, or Gussets Waistbands: Using Seam Allowance 7. Jeans Taking in the Center Back/ Back Gap: Jeans Jeans Hem with Option to Distress Original Jean Hem Taking in the Outseams/ Inseams 8. Taking in Tops Side Seams Princess Seams/ Darts on Front Top Pleats/ Tucks Boned Bodices in Formalwear 9. Letting Out Tops Side Seams Panels Boned Bodices in Formalwear 10. Sleeves, Shoulders and Armscyes When to Say “No!” Taking up Shoulders Taking in Sleeves or Sleeves and Side Seams Lined Suit Jacket Sleeve Hems Button Down Shirt Cuffs and Plackets 11. Crotch Seams How to Measure Crotch Seams Taking in Crotch Seams Letting out Crotch Seams Adding Gussets 12. Necklines and Collars Collar/ Neckline Types Reshaping Necklines Collar Adjustments 13. Repairs Buttons How to Sew on a Button that has Fallen off or is Loose on a Garment two and Four-Hole Button Shank Button Decorative Patches/ Visible Mending Iron-On Patches Stitch Witchery/ Fusible Bonding Patches About Darning Machine Darning Hand Darning Zippers Anatomy of a Zipper Types of Zippers When to Replace a Zipper When to Fix a Zipper/ Replace a Zipper Head Replacing a Zipper Head on Non-Separating/Closed/ Closed at Both Ends/ Continuous Zippers Replacing a Zipper Head on for Separating Zippers When to Replace a Zipper Head When to Say No Linings Replacing or Rethreading Drawstrings Hook and Loop Tape Resources Glossary Acknowledgements Index

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Book SynopsisHow has the fashion industry responded to turn-of-the-millennium non-binary identities? Do they have a supportive or exploitative relationship with queer, trans and ageing subjects? Fashion, Identity, Image unpacks these questions and many more in relation to clothing and representation, identity and body politics in British, European and American culture between 1990 and 2020. Jobling, Nesbitt and Wong explore issues of intersectionality and inclusivity through groundbreaking shows, including Maria Grazia Chiuri's We Should All Be Feminists' catwalk show for Dior (Spring-Summer 2017), Alexander McQueen's The Widows of Culloden' collection (Fall-Winter 2006), and the role of transgender models such as Oslo Grace since 2015. Looking to the future of our relationship with fashion, there''s also an investigation of the android as a redemptive figure in Alessandro Michele's cross-cultural cyborg collection for Gucci (Autumn-Winter 2018/2019) and the impact of the ageing pTrade ReviewGives currency to the importance of fashion as an arbiter of change at a time when the multiplicity and fragmentation of gender is affecting the ways we perceive and experience our bodies and our identities. Its contents will incite ideas and heated debates and I am sure it will be a book whose pages will be well-thumbed and whose subject matter will make for long and passionate arguments and conversations. -- Vicki Karaminas, Massey University, New ZealandUtilizing recent and historic examples, the authors offer a robust account of the role of the fashion industry in creating age, race, gender, and posthuman identities, both actual and fantastic. I finished this book with inspiration for my teaching and research. -- Andrew Reilly, University of Hawai`i, Manoa,Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Acknowledgements Introduction 1. Authoring Fashion, Intersecting Sex and Gender Introduction Maria Grazia Chiuri’s ‘We Should All Be Feminists’ T-Shirt for Christian Dior: Branding, identity and authorship Between the womb and the gay parade: Alexander McQueen’s ‘The Widows of Culloden’ as poetic text Subverting the symbolic order: McQueen’s abject woman Conclusion: Squaring up to the phallic mother Notes 2. Written on the body: Fashion, clothing and age Introduction ‘Active ageing’, youthfulness and fashion ‘Fashion For All Ages’ and the new old model army Race and reversing convention Conclusion: From idiotic methods to the realities of time and place Notes 3. (Un)Gendering the runway Introduction Forerunners of transgender and non-binary identities in fashion The advent of transgendered models The abject trans-model Between abjection and acceptance ‘Come into the (trans)garden’: The heterotopia of fashion The authentic self Other models: Intersectionality and wider diversity in the fashion industry Tokenism versus activism Conclusion: Between tokenism and authenticity Notes 4. Loving the alien: Fashion and cyborg identities Introduction Andrea Giacobbe and ‘Simplex Concordia’ Alessandro Michele and the Gucci Cyborg Compromising race and diversity A ‘genuine cyborg manifesto’? Conclusion: Towards emancipatory possibilities Notes Epilogue

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Book SynopsisFascinating. Perspective A fascinating, often funny, and eminently stylish personal memoir I loved it. - Chris Breward, author of The SuitWide-ranging, thought-provoking and important. - Claire Wilcox, author of Patch Work Elizabeth Wilson is a pioneer of fashion studies, yet she never intended to become an academic. Starting her literary career as a feminist activist writing for the underground press, she went on to explore tennis, bohemians' and of course fashion her obsession along with forays into fiction. Throughout, she has never seen her work as abstract or disengaged from real life'. In her memoir, she traces this relationship between personal experience and her writing, revisiting pivotal moments from childhood, adolescence and adult life to explore her belief that research, by its nature, is always a form of autobiography. She unfolds the garment of her life in a wide-ranging exploration of scenes from her paTrade ReviewIt’s impossible not to warm instantly to Elizabeth Wilson … Unfolding the Past is so packed with Wilson’s literary allusions, as well as her observations about life, sex, film and fashion over the centuries, it’s like dipping into the anecdotes of a clever salonnière, peopled with Djuna Barnes, Proust and Marlene Dietrich. Wilson weaves a memoir in which the uniting thread is how clothing trends reflect changing mores as well as creating new cultural norms … Freed from the “invisible cloak” of her childhood, Wilson’s fascinating text shows how fashion can be the opposite of frivolity. Ultimately, she says, it’s the “search for personal identity through aesthetic experience". -- Belinda Bamber * Perspective *Unfolding the Past is a deeply personal memoir that traces significant moments in the author’s life where she recognises that all research is autobiographical … [It] will appeal to many: the young may curiously plunder what occurred before their existence, while those who lived through the mentioned decades might poignantly recall their clothing choices. -- Sarah E. Braddock Clarke * Selvedge *A fascinating, often funny, and eminently stylish personal memoir [and] a moving insider’s account of radical lives in challenging times … I loved it. * Chris Breward, Author of The Suit, and Director, National Museums Scotland, UK *Wide-ranging, thought-provoking and important. * Claire Wilcox, Author of Patch Work and Senior Curator of Fashion, V&A *Brilliant and important ... [Wilson] is an exceptionally gifted writer, lucid, direct, engaging, often witty, always stimulating ... [A] book at once sinewy and elegant, rigorous and accessible, tough minded and enjoyable. * Richard Dyer, Professor Emeritus, King's College, London, UK *Elizabeth Wilson has always been an elegant thinker and an elegant dresser. Her memoir recalls a life lived believing both matter in a world that regarded them as mutually exclusive. A pleasure to read. * Alistair O'Neill, Author of London: After Fashion and Professor of Fashion History and Theory, Central Saint Martins, UK *An outstanding chronicler of our times ... [and] a sophisticated and informed cultural commentator. * Helen Taylor, Author of Why Women Read Fiction, and Professor of English, University of Exeter, UK *That such an important figure might now re-view, retrospectively, her own intellectual history, during a long and distinguished career, through the filter of her life and experiences, is incredibly exciting. * Caroline Evans, Professor Emerita, Central Saint Martins, UK *Table of ContentsList of Illustrations 1. Outside Looking In 2. First Came Reading 3. Researching My Life 4. Bodies in the Library 5. Dressing the Postwar Young Woman 6. Living the Bohemian Sixties 7. What Does a Lesbian Look Like? 8. Writing Feminism 9. Bad Decade 10. The Vulgar 11. Fashion as Fetish 12. Haunted Houses 13. Nostalgia Mode 14. Cracks in the Pavement 15. In Search of Lost Streets 16. A Visit to Rimini 17. Returning to Queens Club 18. Hedonism 19. Down There on a Visit References Index

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Book SynopsisOffering a new perspective on British fashion history, Wholesale Couture demonstrates that these couturiers were vital in cementing London's status as a ready-to-wear fashion centre.The first book to consider the subject, Wholesale Couture: London and Beyond, 1930-70 seeks to revise the notion that wholesale couturiers were simply copyists and demonstrate the complexities of their design processes and business strategies. This term has fallen out of usage; however, it was used to describe the pinnacle of the British ready-to-wear fashion industry between the 1930s and 1960s. Companies within this sector have typically been recognised as creators of high-quality copies of French haute couture, using ready-to-wear techniques.Liz Tregenza traces wholesale couture garments from concept to usage, considering design, manufacture, branding, promotion, retail and export. She looks beyond the garments produced and investigates the people behind these firm

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Book SynopsisIn the last half of the 19th century, the women of America were beginning to develop their own sense of style. Although influenced by European fashions and the social and economic changes of the time, they made clothing choices based upon their personal aspirations and their practical everyday needs. Providing an overview of fashion influences for each decade from the 1860s to the end of the century, Everyday Fashion in Found Photographs presents iconic garments, using sources from the period, to provide commentary and detailed description of the styles of the time. Previously unpublished vintage photographs show women across the social spectrum wearing items such as the Garibaldi shirt, the cuirass bodice, the Mother Hubbard, bicycle bloomers, and much more. Names, dates and functions of garments are examined in detail, and ties are established between social and historical contexts and the evolution of clothing styles.This illustrated book is for readers who want to identify aTrade ReviewA blend of women's visual, social, and material culture history that encompasses differing social classes and geographical areas, this book is an excellent introduction to American women's fashions of the second half of the nineteenth century. * Karin Bohleke, Shippensburg University, USA *Table of ContentsIntroduction: The Lens of Fashion The 1860s: Beauty in Austerity The 1870s: Change and Choice The 1880s: Contrasts and Control The 1890s: The New Woman Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisA thick, tangled and deliciously idiosyncratic history of hair. Times Literary SupplementThe Middle Ages were a time of great innovation, artistic vigor, and cultural richness. Appearances mattered a great deal during this vibrant era and hair was a key marker of the dynamism and sophistication of the period. Hair became ever more central to religious iconography, from Mary Magdalen to the Virgin Mary, while vernacular poets embellished their verses with descriptions of hairstyles both humble and elaborate, and merchants imported the finest hair products from great distances.Drawing on a wealth of visual, textual and object sources, the volume examines how hairstyles and their representations developedoften to a degree of dazzling complexitybetween the years AD 800 and AD 1450. From wimpled matrons and tonsured monks to adorned noblewomen, hair is revealed as a potent cultural symbol of gender, age, sexuality, health, class, and race.Illustrated with aTrade ReviewA thick, tangled and deliciously idiosyncratic history of hair ... There is plenty to inform and intrigue. * Times Literary Supplement *[A] thoroughly researched, theoretically grounded volume that sheds needed light on the cultural significances of hair in medieval visual and literary culture. -- Holly Flora, Tulane University, USATable of ContentsSeries Preface Introduction 1. Religion and Ritualized Belief, Alexa Sand 2. Self and Society, Hanna Hopwood 3. Fashion and Adornment, Laura Diener 4. Production and Practice, Laura Diener 5. Health and Hygiene, Fernando Salmón and Montserrat Cabré 6. Gender and Sexuality, Martha Easton 7. Race and Ethnicity, Kim M. Phillips 8. Class and Social Status, John Friedman 9. Cultural Representations, Penny Howell Jolly Notes Bibliography Notes on Contributors Index

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Book SynopsisIn this highly original book, Susan E. Hiner looks behind fashion's seams and focuses on the women fashion producers both working- and middle-class who were key to shaping the French fashion economy. Behind the Seams thus opens up the fields of both fashion and French cultural studies and explores new ways of understanding the 19th century by demonstrating that these women's complex and contradictory roles as producers of luxury items left them exploited by an oppressive fashion system even as they served as influencers within it.In 19th-century France, fashion was a powerful and lucrative network that depended on women's expert manipulation of its raw materials. The delicate finger work of seamstresses and modistes yielded frothy dresses and ethereal hats; the subtle, persuasive rhetoric of written chronicles resulted in savvy, targeted marketing campaigns of goods and lifestyles; and the stylized visual splendour of the detailed drawing, engraving, and painting of fashion plTrade ReviewThis outstanding study, rich in newly discovered archival materials, illuminates the pathways to professionalization forged by skilled women hatmakers, journalists, and illustrators… Brilliant analyses by Hiner, one of today’s leading fashion scholars, make this beautifully illustrated book a must-read. * Heidi Brevik-Zender, University of California, Riverside, USA *Hiner’s beautifully illustrated book takes us behind the shop windows and into the workshops, salons and studios of the women who made Paris fashion famous in the nineteenth century ... A must read for everyone interested in the hidden histories of fashion. * Alison Matthews David, Toronto Metropolitan University, Canada *An original and significant contribution to our understanding of women's lives in 19th-century France. * Valerie Steele, Museum at FIT, USA *This beautifully illustrated volume explores the hidden work of women who produced or promoted female fashion in nineteenth-century France. With astute readings of text and image Hiner uncovers, in fascinating detail, a different reality beneath the frothy glamour of silk and lace. * Anne Green, King’s College London, UK *Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Acknowledgements Prologue: Behind the Seams 1. Veiling Women’s Work 2. Fashion’s Fingers: Immodest Modistes 3. Fashion’s Voices: Modistes des Lettres 4. Fashion’s Eyes: Painting in the Mirror Epilogue: Midinettes in Motion Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisA how-to guide for dressing like a Tudor. Based on the author's own experience as a member of a re-enactment group, it offers tips and tricks on how to create your own historic garments.

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Book SynopsisFashion history meets the Egyptians: the phenomena of the pharaohs and enduring fascinating with this ancient civilisation.

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Book SynopsisWhether fashionable or functionalor bothpockets are an important design detail that can enhance the aesthetic of your collection and improve the experience of the wearer. Whether it's for fashion design, construction, patternmaking or costume design, if you're looking to get the full picture on patch pockets, better command of the cargo, or more know-how on welts, this is your go-to resource.The Book of Pockets includes:- inspirational imagery, overlaid with fl at patterns or zoom-ins of the pocket detail- comprehensive information on all things pocket, beginning with their long history and going all the way from workwear to activewear and couture- practical advice through interviews with fashion designers, curators, and technology developers a Pocket Flat Sketch Library appendix for quick reference, and - step-by-step construction tutorials, illustrated with flats throughout, showing you how to create nested pockets with gussets, invisible zipper patch pockets, cascading pocketTable of ContentsForeword About this Book Chapter 1: Historical Insights Chapter 2: Cultural Dress Chapter 3: Utilitarian Pockets Chapter 4: Active Wear Pockets Chapter 5: Wearable Technology Chapter 6: Couture Pockets Chapter 7: Pockets as Design Element Further Reading References Glossary Index

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Book SynopsisWith hundreds of step-by-step illustrated instructions and a user-friendly, stay-flat format, Patternmaking with Stretch Knit Fabrics provides emerging fashion designers with comprehensive information on how to draft patterns for popular cut-and-sew stretch knit fabrics such as jersey and knits with spandex. After covering the basics of knits and techniques for gauging stretch capacity, Julie Cole introduces a unique, simplified approach to drafting slopers using hip and top foundations. She then provides information on converting, drafting, grading, and reducing patterns for proper fit in four categories of stretch. The book proceeds to drafting slopers and patterns for tops, dresses, jackets, sweaters, cardigans, skirts, pants, lingerie, swimwear, and activewear.Patternmaking with Stretch Knit Fabrics is ideal for students with basic or intermediate design, patternmaking, and sewing skills for any course in which students design and draft patterns for knits; or courses

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Book SynopsisApparel Design Through Patternmaking is a fresh design-oriented flat patternmaking text that gives fashion students a new perspective on patternmaking knowledge and skills they need to develop contemporary women's, men's, and children's wear. This book covers a comprehensive range of concepts in flat pattern drafting, such as fit, style, and design development, and the modular approach allows for flexible design options across age, gender, and size, as reflected in current fashion trends. 200 detailed principles address proper measurements; body shapes; dart manipulation; neckline, collar, and sleeve variations; fit issues and corrections; garment details; and more, all of which are easily visualized with hundreds of line drawings and photos. Reference size charts and a decimal conversion chart included in the Appendix make this text user-friendly for international students. Key Features: - 20 slopers, 30 foundations, and variations - 220 detailed principles of patternmaking - 1

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Book SynopsisFor fashion students who want to be both in the now and in the know! The Dynamics of Fashion, Sixth Edition, has the latest facts and figures, and the most current theories in fashion development, production, and merchandising, giving you the foundation you need in the industry. It offers hundreds of real-life examples of leading brands and industry trends, to show you fashion careers and how to apply what you learn. The book also covers sustainable fashion, wearable technology, social media, and more in detail. An online STUDIO includes self-quizzes, flashcards, and links to videos. New to this Edition-New chapter on sustainability with current industry processes-New chapter on fashion careers and how to get started in the industry-All Fashion Focus box features have been updated to current topics and industry trends The Dynamics of Fashion, 6th Edition STUDIO-Study smarter with self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study

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Book SynopsisTo execute excellent designs, you need accurate pattern drafting and quality sewing, and Professional Sewing Techniques for Designers, Third Edition gives aspiring designers these skills. The text presents a wide range of step-by-step beginning and advanced techniques, accompanied by detailed illustrations to help with visual learning. Each chapter covers a topic following the stitching order of a garment, including stabilizers, darts, seams, pockets, tucks and pleats, zippers, waistbands, flounces, collars, facing, and more. This book also incorporates social topics relevant to the fashion industry such as sustainability, gender neutral design, and diverse representation. Learning tools like checklists and Style I.D. diagrams teach students to understand the relationships between fabric, sewing techniques, and design and apply this knowledge to their own creations.New to this Edition: -New chapter on Sustainable Sewing-Focus on inclusivity, including gender neutra

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Book SynopsisThis book examines a significant moment in fashion''s evolution when technological innovations are inspiring designers, brands and consumers to think beyond conventional clothing in the real world and to forge fresh relationships with digital garments within 3-D virtual spaces. It shows how these spaces, which are largely driven by augmented reality, virtual reality, mixed reality and blockchain, enable users to interact with digital avatars and each other.For many the prospect of employing new technologies is as terrifying as it is exciting. Fashion in the Metaverse aims to demystify these advanced technologies, while also delving into the uncertainties and impact of others such as AI, NFTs and Web3.Interviews with pioneers working in the industry provide further insights in to the creation of virtual garments, the rise and operation of the virtual economy and business in the metaverse, and the role of avatars as digital embodiments of self-expression and identity. The book concludes with a look to fashion''s future, and explores the ways fashion will evolve with the metaverse, to transcend boundaries and encompass a range of influences, expressions and experiences as fashion breathes its creative spirit into virtual worlds.

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Book Synopsis Woven Textile Design offers a comprehensive introduction to weaving for all those wishing to design and produce a wide range of fabrics from scratch.Starting with the basics of woven textile design, the book looks at how to draw up and interpret records and notation, before explaining how different types of cloth are constructed. From the most basic of plain weaves, through twill weaves, textured weaves such as seersucker, crepe, and corded cloths to more complicated designs created with extra threads woven in, a wide range of patterns are covered. Illustrated throughout with diagrams, weaving plans, and beautiful examples from contemporary designers, the book also includes tips on using different yarns and colors to create stunning and unique designs.Offering clear, practical advice, this book will show you how to interpret your initial concepts and develop your ideas on the loom.

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Book SynopsisFashion Drawing is a comprehensive, practical guide to fashion drawing for students of fashion design. This second edition features brand new illlustrations reflecting developments in pose, presentation and digital design, plus guidance on creating technical flats.Step–by–step tutorials show how to create fashion drawings for women, men and children, and adapt them for different marketsMore than 1000 illustrations depict work from leading designers and illustrators revealing a wide variety of approachesDiscover how to render fabrics, textures and effects, from faux fur and metallics to prints, woven and knitted materialsIncludes an illustrated glossary of garment and fabric details and an extensive resource section"A useful resource for both fashion students and home sewists looking to give their sketches a professional look." – Simply SewingChapters include: • Drawing Women • Drawing Men • Drawing Children and Young Adults • Zooming In • Working From Life • Drawing Garments • Production Sketches • Basic Garment Details and Silhouettes • Drawing Drape • Tailored Clothing • Rendering Shine • Texture, Patterns and Sheers

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Book Synopsis"Even the book's cover sparkles with gold, a brilliant visual cue -- at least for those of us of a certain age -- of what's in store: A traipse through that time in our lives when the sparkly flash of pop-cultural figures served as guides to millions of youngsters desperate to connect to a dim constellation we knew to be out there but couldn't see alone." — East Hampton Star What The Band Wore by Alice Harris is an unprecedented collection of photographs that illustrates four decades of pop, rock, soul, disco, funk, punk, reggae, heavy metal, and hip hop fashion. Sparkling sequins, safety pins, and even suits from outer space are spotlighted in more than 80 images by acclaimed music photographers, including Terry O'Neill, Henry Diltz, Matthew Rolston, Bob Gruen, and Lynn Goldsmith. Featuring exclusive comments from legendary artists, What The Band Wore traces the evolution of stage wear from the 1960s through the 1990s, from the self-made counterculture style of Jefferson Airplane, Janis Joplin, and Sly & The Family Stone to the custom designs that Bob Mackie, Bill Whitten, Larry LeGaspi, Vivienne Westwood, and Issey Miyake created for the most renowned names in music. Whether it's Elvis Presley or Janet Jackson posing in tight leather, Freddie Mercury masquerading as a harlequin, or Run-DMC sporting their iconic footwear, these pages thread together a fabulous celebration of fashion and music.Trade Review"Even the book's cover sparkles with gold, a brilliant visual cue -- at least for those of us of a certain age -- of what's in store: A traipse through that time in our lives when the sparkly flash of pop-cultural figures served as guides to millions of youngsters desperate to connect to a dim constellation we knew to be out there but couldn't see alone." - East Hampton Star

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Book SynopsisUnravels the intimate narratives woven into the fabric of our most personal garments.

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Book SynopsisTextile imagery is pervasive in classical literature. An awareness of the craft and technology of weaving and spinning, of the production and consumption of clothing items, and of the social and religious significance of garments is key to the appreciation of how textile and cloth metaphors work as literary devices, their suitability to conceptualize human activities and represent cosmic realities, and their potential to evoke symbolic associations and generic expectations.Spanning mainly Greek and Latin poetic genres, yet encompassing comparative evidence from other Indo-European languages and literature, these 18 chapters draw a various yet consistent picture of the literary exploitation of the imagery, concepts and symbolism of ancient textiles and clothing. Topics include refreshing readings of tragic instances of deadly peploi and fatal fabrics situate them within a Near Eastern tradition of curse as garment, explore female agency in the narrative of their production, and argue for broader symbolic implications of textile-making within the sphere of natural wealth The concepts and technological principles of ancient weaving emerge as cognitive patterns that, by means of analogy rather than metaphor, are reflected in early Greek mathematic and logical thinking, and in archaic poetics. The significance of weaving technology in early philosophical conceptions of cosmic order is revived by Lucretius’ account of atomic compound structure, where he makes extensive use of textile imagery, whilst clothing imagery is at the center of the sustained intertextual strategy built by Statius in his epic poem, where recurrent cloaks activate a multilayered poetic memory.

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Book SynopsisClothing Goes to War: Creativity Inspired by Scarcity in World War II is the story of clothing use when manufacturing for civilians nearly stopped and raw materials and workers across the globe were shifted to war work. Governments mandated rationing programmes in many countries to regulate the limited supply, in hopes that the burden of austerity would be equally shared. Unfortunately, as the war progressed and resources dwindled, neither ration tickets nor money could buy what did not exist on store shelves. Many people had to get by with their already limited wardrobes, often impacted by the global economic depression of the previous decade. Creativity, courage and perseverance came into play in caring for clothing using handicraft skills including sewing, knitting, mending, darning and repurposing to make limited wardrobes last during long years of austerity and deprivation. This fascinating page-turner is the first cross cultural account of the difficulties faced by common people experiencing clothing scarcity and rationing during World War II. In person interviews of women from over ten countries are contextualized with stories of the roles played by newly developed textiles, gendered dress in the workplace, handicraft skills often forgotten today, romance and weddings, rationing represented in war era film and the ever-present black market. Period photos from private collections, magazines and periodicals add dimension to this captivating account of the often overlooked role of clothing during World War II. Clothing Goes to War will appeal to present day readers interested in curtailing their consumption of clothing in an effort to reduce greenhouse gas emissions fueling climate change. Adopting the conservation techniques of the World War II generation who: 'made do' and 'wore our clothes until they wore out' will help to curtail the fashion industries negative impact on the environment. 'We made do.' 'We wore patches on our patches.' 'We wore our clothes until they wore out.' 'I was so excited when they had a feed sack with a border print!' These are just a few examples of the amazing first-hand experiences of women from over ten countries faced with clothing shortages represented in this book. Governments, regardless of which side they were on, enforced rationing and restrictions on clothing so that scarce textiles could be diverted to outfit the military, leaving limited resources for civilians. Many people had to get by with their already limited wardrobes, often impacted by the global economic depression of the previous decade. Creativity, courage and perseverance came into play in caring for clothing using handicraft skills including sewing, knitting, mending, darning and repurposing to make limited wardrobes last during long years of austerity and deprivation. Seventy-five years later, the lifestyle of Western culture has become more focused on a sense of entitlement and overuse. Recently, a 'slow fashion' movement promoting growing awareness of the negative effects of over consumption on the environment has motivated people to voluntarily restrict their clothing consumption. This movement echoes the efforts of civilians during World War II to sustain their limited wardrobes. A great deal about leading a more sustainable lifestyle can be learned from the cultural knowledge presented here in the stories of people who lived through the Great Depression and World War II. Clothing Goes to War represents an important contribution to the history of textiles and clothing, sociology, environmental studies, material culture and the history of World War II. This is a book that will have genuinely wide appeal. Local historians and craft groups may want to include this in their libraries many craft groups maintain libraries that discuss fashion and craft in wartime. Academic readership will be among researchers, educators, scholars and students in fashion studies, history, cultural studies and feminist studies, who will particularly value the thorough documentation. General readers will particularly enjoy the personal stories and close examination or rationing and alternative methods of clothing families. History-loving readers will like to see war from the consumer side of conflict. The current COVID-19 situation provides an unexpected context for many potential readers who until now have never faced lack of consumer goods, hoarding and market-price manipulation. Table of ContentsAcknowledgments Introduction 1. Rationale for Rationing: The Demanding War 2. Textiles Go to War: Military Uniforms Prioritized 3. Gender Defined by Clothing: Women in Slacks 4. Home Front Handicrafts: Creativity Inspired by Restrictions 5. Feed Sack Fashion: Nothing Was Wasted 6. Wartime Weddings: Falling in Love During Wartime 7. Costumes Go to War: Clothing in Hollywood and British Film 8. Clothing as Commerce: Hoarding, Bartering, and the Black Market 9. Make-Do and Mend: Once Forgotten, Now Reborn 10. Epilogue: Global Pandemic of 2020 Forces Revivals of 1940s Handicrafts Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisReFashion a conscious lifestyle starting with your wardrobe

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Book SynopsisLearn how to sew a collection of stylish garments with this beginner-friendly guide for the modern dressmaker. Tammy Johal covers all the essentials from choosing the right fabric to reading and using patterns to the stitches needed to complete the designs in this book ? making this the ultimate guide to dressmaking. Featuring 20 designs with variations in US Women''s sizes 2?28, Tammy specializes in uncomplicated, simple shapes that you will love to wear throughout the year. All the patterns are easy to sew in a couple of hours, allowing beginners to make something they?re truly proud of and wear it the same day. All the garments and accessories will have a slip-on style, meaning there won?t be any need for tricky fastenings ? making this book truly beginner friendly.

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Book SynopsisChristian Dior (1905-1957) rocketed to fame with his first collection in 1947 when the "New Look" took the world by storm. This charming and modest autobiography gives a fascinating and detailed insight into the workings of a great fashion house, while revealing the private man behind the high-profile establishment. It is also a unique portrait of classic Paris haute couture of the 1950s and offers a rare glimpse behind the scenes. Dior details his childhood in Granville, the family and friends closest to him, his most difficult years and sudden success, as well as his sources of inspiration and creative processes.Trade Review"This autobiography not only gives readers detailed insight into the workings of the fashion house, but also reveals the nature of the man behind it." -- Daniela Saunders, 20+ Must- Have Fashion Coffee Table Books, Country & Town House, 24th May 2022, "A fascinating insight into the iconic design house" -- Hello Magazine, "an excellent primary source...and invaluable addition to fashion history literature" -- Caroleen Molenaar, Journal of Dress History, Vol. 4, Issue. 3, Autumn 2020, "This intimate autobiography allows us to discover the man behind the creative genius acclaimed internationally." Eleanora Dal Bosco, 1 Granary, January 3rd 2022Table of ContentsPrologue: The Two Christian Diors Part One: The Birth of Maison Christian Dior One: The Reluctant Couturier Two: A House of One's Own Three: The New Look Four: An Innocent Abroad in the U.S.A Part Two: From the Idea to the Dress Five: The Idea Six: From the 'Toile' to the Dress Seven: The Birth of the Collection Eight: The Dress Rehearsal Nine: The Eve of the Battle Ten: The Showing of the Collection Eleven: The Romance of Clothes Part Three: Inside a Couture House Twelve: The Mannequins Thirteen: The Clients Fourteen: Domestic Expansion Fifteen: Paris to New York and Back Again Sixteen: Christian Dior-London Part Four: The Adventure of My Life Seventeen: My Early Years Eighteen: Friendships and Frustrations Nineteen: Portrait of Myself

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Book SynopsisThis book examines how sustainability has the potential to transform both the fashion system and the innovators who work within it. The book is organized in three parts. The first part is concerned with transforming fashion products across the garment''s lifecycle and includes innovation in materials, manufacture, distribution, use, and re-use. The second part looks at ideas that are transforming the fashion system at root into something more sustainable, including new business models that reduce material output. The third section is concerned with transforming the role of fashion designers and looks to examples where the designer changes from a stylist or shaper of things into a communicator, activist or facilitator.

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Book SynopsisTextiles are central to our lives and are at the heart of the world's largest industries. In recent years there has been a dynamic shift in attitudes toward textiles, fuelled in part by explosive developments in technology. While textiles have always retained roots in craft and industry, the discipline now embraces a much wider range of practices. Innovations in the industry demand a fresh approach to the subject, which this comprehensive introduction ably supplies. Taking as their starting point the very meaning of textiles, Gale and Kaur go on to show the astonishing range of opportunities for careers in the field, from the creative (artists, craftspeople and designers) to the social and industrial, to the commercial and associated practices (buyers, journalists, researchers and scientists). The Textile Book takes us behind the scenes with professionals to reveal what various jobs involve, what influences decision makers, and how their decisions affect what we buy next season. What happens to clothes before they reach the shops? What determines the 'must have' item? How can recycled bottles be transformed into silk-like yarns? These and many other questions are explored to show the diversity that makes up the contemporary global textile scene. Woven, printed, embroidered, knitted -- textiles are pivotal to the everyday experience of people in all parts of the world. This wide-ranging and informative book conveys the excitement and new challenges textiles represent and is essential reading for anyone working with, studying or simply interested in textiles.Trade Review'Although the authors planned this book as a text/reference book, I recommend reading every page ... a valuable authority that provides an historical and global view of the past, present, and future of textiles.' Handwoven 'Essential reading for anyone considering a career in textiles.' Embroidery Magazine 'The Textile book takes a compelling and very broad look at a myriad of aspects of fabrics and the humans using them...the authors seem to have tapped not only solid history, but a good deal of the most up-to-date information, including 'smart fabrics'...this subject, and its treatment in this book, is food for a lot of thought, discussion, and research.' Costume Journal 'Those studying textiles and the general public should find this book very useful.' Choice 'Upper division or graduate students as well as professionals in our field would certainly benefit from the content information of The Textile Book. More importantly, those in the textile community who read it, will be encouraged to engage in broad discourse that the subject deserves in order to better ensure the subject's future as an academic discipline.' Nancy Lyons, South Dakota State UniversityTable of ContentsContents Preface vii Part I Overviews 1What is Textiles?1 This Book3 2The Cultural Place of Textiles7 Gentility and Gender7 The Inner Spirit13 Capitalism and Communism16 Lifestyle23 3Perceptions of Fabric30 New Fabrics, New Aesthetics31 Fundamental Skills and the Evolution of Textile Practice33 The Influence of Skill35 The Influence of Science and Engineering38 Re-evaluation42 Part II The Creative 4The Textile Designer45 Design Practice49 Global Comparisons of Textile Design53 Futures61 5The Designer-Maker63 The Origins of Designer-Makers66 Employment67 Market68 Business71 Case Study: Lindsay Bloxam75 Personal Issues76 Establishing a Business78 Selling Stuff80 The Broader View82 6The Craftsperson85 Comparing Makers89 The Importance of Process-Led Practice93 A Role in the Modern World94 The Appeal of the Handmade98 Supporting Organizations99 7The Textile Artist102 Textile Art, Craft or Design?104 The Reason of Textile Art108 Issues of Content111 Ownership115 Part III The Social and Industrial Context 8Global Textile Traditions119 Regional Exchanges120 Patronage123 Ritual, Symbolism and Stories125 Weave127 Embroidery129 Print and Dye131 Contemporary Uses of Traditional Textiles134 Recent Textile Traditions136 9Ecology139 Pollution, Politics and Ecology139 The Role of Organizations and Agencies143 Government Policies and Organizations148 Eco or Green Design153 Case Study: Corporate Environmental Policies157 10Industry161 The Industrial Story162 Power and Influence170 The Future174 11The Role of Trends and Forecasting180 The Textile Industries and Forecasting183 The Forecasting Gurus and their Roles188 Part IV Related Disciplines and Studies 12The Buyer194 The Buyers Role195 Issues Affecting Buying Decisions196 Buying Textiles and Design-Led Textile Products200 The Suppliers Concerns203 International Issues204 The Future207 13Journalism212 The Media Industry212 Lifestyle and Textile Journalism215 Courting Fame220 The Internet223 14Science226 A Scientific History227 The Basics230 The Science Design Gap233 The Stuff of Fiction236 Future Issues241 15Research245 Archaeology and Anthropology245 Textiles, Cultural Identity and the Culture Industry 250 Museums and Collections255 Contemporary Textiles and Critical Studies 259 Bibliography263 Index27

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Book SynopsisThreads of Time is a journey around the world through the medium of textiles. In many communities, cultural heritage and traditions have been handed down through generations by textile artisans. Their beliefs, history, ceremonies, and traditions have been woven into cloth with meaning and purpose sometimes lasting thousands of years. Textiles are special in that they can create narratives that are personal as well as eminently portable. The pages of Threads of Time illustrate exquisite textiles with location photography, from historical examples of centuries past to extraordinary contemporary expressions, revealing a continuum of inspiration and beauty. The 16 chapters, covering regions from across the globe, feature contributions from local textile makers and experts, bringing together over 30 voices to tell stories of cloth. Locations explored include: Indonesia, China, Vietnam and Cambodia, Laos and Myanmar, Bhutan, Nagaland, Punjab, Egypt and Palestine, The Caucasus, Turkey, Madagascar, Tunisia, Ghana, Peru and Guatemala, Navajo Nation.

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Book SynopsisIkat textiles, known as abr in their lands of origin in Central Asia, are beloved by collectors, decorators and textile devotees across the world. This book presents a new approach to the intricately patterned silk textiles by focusing on complete robes from a major private collection. These items of clothing tell stories about their wearers: their home, identity and place in society. By studying the history, making, and changing fashions of ikat robes, the past is brought to life. It quickly becomes clear that the power and influence of Central Asian costume reached far beyond the borders of modern Uzbekistan, inspiring imitations and providing visual stimuli for avant-garde artists.With stunning photography and previously unpublished research findings, this publication is a new take on ikat costume for those interested in the history of textiles and fashion, but also for those wishing to admire the sheer beauty and exquisite craftsmanship of these remarkable textiles.

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Book SynopsisWorking from surviving garments and contemporary tailoring books and patterns, Anne Tyrrell has put together a pattern book of key 20th-century costumes with fascinating historical details on dress. A decade for each chapter, the book features garments such as war uniforms, a 1930s evening gown, a Teddy Boy outfit, a 1960s maxi coat and many more. Wonderful illustrations of period dress are accompanied by information on notable features, underwear and accessories for each period. Scale patterns follow for each outfit shown, complete with detailed notes on making up, using techniques appropriate to the period. A grid for enlargement of the pattern pieces is provided together with full instructions. This is an essential book for any dressmaker interested in recreating period dress, especially film and theatre costume-makers, but also fashion designers looking for inspiration in authentic historical dress of the recent past.Trade ReviewPacked with historical and vintage patterns from 1900-1970, this is a practical and inspiring pattern book, providing an essential reference for film and theatre costume-makers, fashion designers or anyone interested in recreating classic vintage fashions. Sew Today Magazine.

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Book SynopsisStarting in 1966, Thea Porter designed clothes for the rich and famous for nearly two decades. Her creations were made from sumptuous fabrics that drew inspiration from the Middle East, combining richly patterned silks with antique fabrics. Her clothes were a must for music and film stars such as Pink Floyd, Crystal Gayle, Elizabeth Taylor, and Barbra Streisand. Porter soon became a key member of an innovative group of British designers that included Ossie Clark, Zandra Rhodes, and Jean Muir, and her place in the history of British fashion was ensured when she was named Designer of the Year in 1972. Thea Porter’s scrapbook is her story in her own words, an unpublished autobiography she put together before her death in 2000. Edited by her daughter Venetia, and with an essay by fashion historian Amy de la Haye, it reveals Porter’s further talents as a keenly observant and descriptive writer. This book which includes working drawings, sketches, snapshots, and manuscript notes, serves as a memoir of her early life and career, charting many memorable episodes, including the dramatic surge of American interest in her clothes, and the opening of her shop in Paris as she pursued her ambition to create dresses “beyond trend and tat, that thirty years from today will still be beautiful.”Trade Review"The whole book is a great slice of fashion history." --Alexandra Shulman, former editor-in-chief, British Vogue; "A captivating book…Porter’s writing resembles her designs – it is often…a sensual patchwork…Like a wardrobe overflowing with wondrous clothes, the book is stuffed with photographs and paintings" Kate Kellaway, The Observer

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Book SynopsisAfrica in Fashion explores the kaleidoscope of craft cultures that have shaped African fashion for centuries and captures the intriguing stories of contemporary and avant-garde African brands.Part One looks at Africa''s rich cultural heritage and place in the network of global fashion. The first chapter retells the history of African fashion, exploring Africa''s textile traditions, artisanship and role as a global resource. The second chapter presents a New Africa and examines the promise and potential of Africa''s markets, while challenging stereotypes and the concept of European hegemony particularly in the realm of luxury fashion. It also spotlights Africa''s unique position as the global industry shifts towards a more sustainable future.Part Two ushers the reader into the spectacular world of African fashion today. It showcases a carefully curated set of the continent''s most dynamic brands and, through interviews with prominent and inspiring designers, offers rare insight into their ethos and design practice. Covering unisex fashion, menswear, womenswear, accessories and jewelry the brands are each purposefully selected to contribute uniquely to the mosaic of Africa evolving creative landscape.

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Book SynopsisThe author weaves together history and memory in a wide-ranging exploration of women's attitudes to personal appearance in modern Britain.

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Book SynopsisA beautifully illustrated celebration of the life and work of provocative fashion pioneer Alexander McQueen. Alexander McQueen's creative vision stunned and shocked the fashion world for over 15 years, with his avant-garde theatricality leading many to call him the enfant terrible of British fashion. He created fashion moments which have not faded from memory, like David Bowie's Union Jack coat from 1996, Sarah Jessica Parker's tartan Met Gala dress from 2006, and Lady Gaga's alien armadillo shoes in the Bad Romance video clip in 2009. But before he was Alexander McQueen, he was Lee Alexander McQueen, the boy from London who dreamed of becoming a fashion designer. He worked his way up from making suits on Savile Row to starting his own fashion label and becoming one of the youngest designers ever to win an award for British Womenswear Designer of the Year. This book is a celebration of the life, brand and 36 ground-breaking collections created by Lee.

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Book SynopsisDelphine Manivet launched her bridal and formalwear fashion brand in 2004; she has worked with Lady Gaga, Lily Allen, Riley Keough, Laura Smet, and more. She is on the jury of the reality show Projet Fashion. Anne Akrich is a French novelist and essayist. Pierre Musellec is a photographer; his work has been featured in Timeless Paris and in Extraordinary Collections.

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Book SynopsisSophie Gachet, former Elle fashion journalist, is a veritable trend barometer. She coauthored, with Ines de la Fressange, the New York Times bestseller Parisian Chic, Parisian Chic City Guide, Parisian Chic Look Book, and The Parisian Field Guide to Men's Style.

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