Fashion and textile design Books

Book SynopsisMert Alas, born in Turkey, and Marcus Piggott, born in Wales, met in 1994, at a party on a pier in Hastings, England. Piggott asked Alas for a light, the pair got talking, and rapidly discovered they had plenty in common, not least a love of fashion. Three years later, the duo now known as Mert and Marcus had moved into a derelict loft in East London, converted it into a studio, and had their first collaborative photographic work published in Dazed & Confused. These days, Mert and Marcus shape the global image of such renowned brands as Giorgio Armani, Roberto Cavalli, Fendi, Miu Miu, Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent, Givenchy, and Lancôme, and public figures including Lady Gaga, Madonna, Jennifer Lopez, Linda Evangelista, Gisele Bündchen, Björk, Angelina Jolie, and Rihanna. Their photographs encompass a wide range of styles and influences but are renowned particularly for their use of digitized augmentation of images, and a fascination for strong, sexually charged, confident female subjects: “powerful women, women with a meaning, a you-don’t-have-to-talk-or-move-too-much-to-tell-who-you-are kind of woman.” Bringing our best-selling Collector’s Edition to an affordable, compact format, this collection explores the unique vision of a creative partnership that has defined and redefined standards for glamour, fashion, and luxury. Approximately 300 images from the megawatt Mert and Marcus portfolio are accompanied by an introduction by Charlotte Cotton.Trade Review“A lavishly illustrated tome for your coffee table.” * The Observer Magazine *“One of the most influential photographic practices in contemporary fashion.” * British Vogue *

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Book SynopsisThe Hermes scarf is one of the greatest fashion icons. Worn by royalty and celebrities, coveted and admired, and avidly collected, this simple square of silk is more than just an accessory: it is the stuff of legend. This title explores the heritage and influence of House of Hermes, from the first scarfs debut in 1937, to the present day.Trade Review'Ravishing' - GuardianTable of ContentsIntroduction; The Story of the Scarf; A Universe of Form; A Philosophy of Colour; Legends; Notes; Bibliography

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Book SynopsisJustine Picardie spent years puzzling over the truth about Coco Chanel, peeling away the accretions of romance and lies. Since its publication in 2010, hers has become the definitive Chanel biography. With a new foreword and previously unseen images, this new edition delves even deeper into the life and legacy of this eternally alluring woman.Coco Chanel was an extraordinary inventor she conjured up the little black dress, bobbed hair, trousers for women, contemporary chic, best-selling perfumes, and the most successful fashion brand of all time but she also invented herself, fashioning the myth of her own life with the same dexterity as her couture.While Chanel was supreme innovator and vendor of all things elegant and beautiful, what lies beneath her own glossy myth is far darker. Throwing new light on her passionate and turbulent relationships, this beautifully constructed portrait gives a fresh and penetrating look at how Coco Chanel made herself into her own most powerful creation.Justine Picardie brings the mysterious Gabrielle Chanel out of hiding, to celebrate her great achievements. She examines Chanel''s enduring afterlife, as well as her remarkable life, uncovering the consequences of what she covered up, unpicking the seams between truth and legend, yet keeping intact the real fabric of her past.Trade Review‘Gripping… In the deftest prose, Picardie plots one of the most extraordinary lives of the 20th Century. The book is lavishly illustrated, too, with images of iconic outfits and intimate photos from Chanel's private albums.’ Mail on Sunday ‘Fascinating. Chanel was a tragic figure of almost Shakespearean aspect – hugely successful, fiercely strong-willed, yet fatally flawed and eventually filled with regret.’ Sunday Times ‘The French fashion icon finds a shrewd and sympathetic interpreter in Justine Picardie… this handsome volume cleverly blends the life and afterlife of the enigma who became a brand.’ The Independent ‘Justine Picardie’s vividly told account of Coco Chanel’s life has all the elements of a novel: the mystery, the sense of loss, the quest for fame and fortune, the distinguished lovers… in the style of Chanel herself.’ Daily Mail ‘[An] elegant book…The Chanel uncovered by Picardie is a storyteller [who] spun her own myth… Coco has, in these pages, come out of hiding.’ The Telegraph ‘A detailed and captivating read’ Red Magazine ‘A brilliant biography’ Grazia ‘Picardie sheds new light on the intensely private designer… Impressive’ Stylist Magazine ‘The darker facets [of Chanel] are subtly and carefully revealed by Justine Picardie.’ Wall Street Journal ‘Justine Picardie sheds new light on the darker truths behind the glossy myth… Guaranteed to be the most well-read accessory at London Fashion Week.’ Daily Express ‘Justine Picardie’s thoughtful and beautifully illustrated Life … illuminates the iconoclast who might justifiably be said to have invented the twentieth-century woman.’ Times Literary Supplement

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Book SynopsisA compelling look at the aesthetic and historical significance of Lagerfeld’s work—from his elegantly tailored pieces for Chanel to the witty, playful ensembles that came to define the Lagerfeld brand “The Met’s latest tome expertly narrates the journey that earned Lagerfeld his seat at the hallowed throne of modern high fashion.”—V Magazine Unparalleled in its luxurious presentation, this publication celebrates the virtuoso artistry of Karl Lagerfeld (1933–2019). Designed to evoke an elegant parchment-and-cloth artist’s portfolio, it boasts a pageant of stunning fashion photography alongside Lagerfeld’s original sketches, offering a behind-the-scenes window into his process as well as his sartorial brilliance. Silver inks and select gold pages punctuate the book’s stylish packaging and recall the designer’s signature accessories. An illustrated timeline, unfurling from the back of the volume, chronicles the designer’s long and illustrious career. Lagerfeld produced over 10,000 pieces of clothing across his extraordinary 65 years as a powerhouse fashion designer, from his time at Chloé and Fendi in the 1960s and 1970s to his celebrated leadership in the 1980s and beyond at Chanel and with his own label. His voracious curiosity and boundless imagination yielded beautiful, evocative garments, more than 200 of which are showcased here. These are accompanied by personal reflections from Lagerfeld’s premières d’ateliers—the seamstresses behind his extraordinary creations—as well as by Anna Wintour, Patrick Hourcade, Amanda Harlech, and Tadao Ando. A lavish work of art in its own right, this book is also an essential resource on Lagerfeld and how his designs transformed the entire fashion industry. Published by The Metropolitan Museum of Art/Distributed by Yale University PressTrade Review“Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty can be seen as a kind of dream work as well as a piece of art and scholarship.”—Vogue“Andrew Bolton masterfully displays Lagerfeld’s iconic journey through fashion and design with stunning photographs and intelligent prose. . . . The book itself is a work of art––crafted with a variety of textural papers and adorned with rich gold colour. A must-experience for anyone seeking to understand the profound artistry that defined [Lagerfeld’s] legendary 65-year career.”—RGD Book Club (Association of Registered Graphic Designers), Design Books Gift Guide“This catalogue is a guide to the man and his work, a guide that Karl—even Karl—would have loved.”—Anna Wintour“The intersection of a serpentine line with a straight line . . . cross, overlap, and crush against each other, creating tension and expansion . . . offering a glimpse into the introspective world of Karl Lagerfeld.”—Tadao Ando“[Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty] sheds light on the work of a designer of genius who marked the history of fashion . . . forever.”—Chanel“Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty invites the public into Karl’s world and reveals the dualities within his work.”—Fendi

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Book SynopsisFashion is the most immediate and intimate form of self-expression. Faster than anything else, what we wear tells the story of who we are or who we want to be. Yet even as fashion touches the lives of each and every one of us, it can seem mysterious. This title deals with this topic.Trade Review'Combined info and inspo, peppered with facts, punchy quotes and personal insight … a thought-provoking read delivered with gentle authority … I can see myself returning to it again and again for reference … an essential read for any aspiring fashion industry professional or fashion student' - Style London'It certainly got me thinking … two-thirds of the way through and my brain is fizzing like Alka-Seltzer … 'Why Fashion Matters' applies the mental jump leads and makes you think about what you wear, how you wear it and where it came from' - Guardian'As much a personal manifesto as a multi-layered exploration of the significance of fashion in society … thought-provoking … Corner races through her subjects elegantly and succinctly' - Financial Times'Lucid … you don’t have to take in the entire book at once. You can return to it later – and you will … Chock-full of references to pop culture and history' - Dressful.com

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Book SynopsisThe autobiography of Mary Quant—the inventor of the miniskirt—was originally published in 1966 at the height of Swinging London. After opening her groundbreaking boutique Bazaar on London’s King’s Road in 1955, Quant soared to international fame with her brand of witty style that fitted perfectly with modern city life. She was at the forefront of fashion’s democratization—seeking to eliminate snobbery and “make fashionable clothes available to everyone.” Her joyful, evocative autobiography captures the world in which she found inspiration—and which she ultimately helped to define and change.Trade Review‘breathless but absorbing’ -- Burlington Magazine, July 2019

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Book SynopsisEighteenth-century fashion was cosmopolitan and varied. Whilst the wildly extravagant and colorful elite fashions parodied in contemporary satire had significant influence on wider dress habits, more austere garments produced in darker fabrics also reflected the ascendancy of a puritan middle class as well as a more practical approach to dress. With the rise of print culture and reading publics, fashions were more quickly disseminated and debated than ever, and the appetite for fashion periodicals went hand in hand with a preoccupation with the emerging concept of taste. Richly illustrated with over 100 images and drawing on pictorial, textual and object sources, A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Age of Enlightenment presents essays on textiles, production and distribution, the body, belief, gender and sexuality, status, ethnicity, and visual and literary representations to illustrate the diversity and cultural significance of dress and fashion in the Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Introduction Peter McNeil (University of Technology Sydney, Australia) Chapter 1 – Textiles Tove Engelhardt Mathiassen (National Open Air Museum of Urban History and Culture, Denmark) Chapter 2 – Production and Distribution Beverly Lemire (University of Alberta, Canada) Chapter 3 – The Body Isabelle Paresys (Université de Lille, France) Chapter 4 – Belief Dagmar Freist (Carl von Ossietzky-University Oldenburg, Germany) Chapter 5 – Gender and Sexuality Dominic Janes (University of Keele, UK) Chapter 6 – Status Mikkel Venborg Pedersen (National Museum in Copenhagen, Denmark) Chapter 7 – Ethnicity Barbara Lasic (Sotheby's Institute of Art, UK) Chapter 8 – Visual Representations Christian Huck (University of Kiel, Germany) Chapter 9 – Literary Representations Alicia Kerfoot (State University of New York, USA) Notes Bibliography Notes on Contributors Index

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Book SynopsisFashion is ever-changing, and while some styles mark a dramatic departure from the past, many exhibit subtle differences from year to year that are not always easily identifiable. With overviews of each key period and detailed illustrations for each new style, How to Read a Suit is an authoritative visual guide to the under-explored area of men's fashion across four centuries. Each entry includes annotated color images of historical garments, outlining important features and highlighting how styles have developed over time, whether in shape, fabric choice, trimming, or undergarments. Readers will learn how garments were constructed and where their inspiration stemmed from at key points in history as well as how menswear has varied in type, cut, detailing and popularity according to the occasion and the class, age and social status of the wearer. This lavishly illustrated book is the ideal tool for anyone who has ever wanted to know their Chesterfield from their Ulster coat. ETrade ReviewA reminder that even the most devil-may-care of modern male dressers is out-fopped by his antecedents. * Anna Murphy, The Times *Another excellent resource from Lydia Edwards, indispensable both to the fashion history novice and expert alike. * Amber Butchart, fashion historian, author and broadcaster *Lavishly illustrated [and] wonderfully researched … the ‘How to Read’ series of books are perfect research guides for students, researchers and anyone with an interest in historical fashion. * Costume Society UK *A fascinating tome that examines changes in men's fashion in a vibrant and visually striking way ... From the styles of political movements in the French Revolution to the famous 'Palm Beach' suits of America in the 1930s, this is a rich and extensive study of the suit and men's fashion. * All About History *Fans of historical fiction and period dramas will gain new insights into their favorite characters by learning how "clothes make the man" … Collections covering Western culture, fashion, and costume design will want to add this title to this season’s collections. * Booklist *What I enjoyed most was the range of examples included in the book. I thought Edwards did an amazing job selecting and managing disparate sources of inspiration ... this was a terrific book and would serve as an excellent reference for anyone studying or designing menswear and as well as anyone interested in the history of menswear. * Critical Studies in Men's Fashion *How to Read a Suit provides an easy-to-read guide to the history behind subject that is glazed over most of the Edwards, walks the reader chronologically through the history of seventeenth to twentieth century. * The Journal of Dress History *Fun to read. * Hasty Book List *Once again, Lydia Edwards refines centuries of costume history into its most essential elements, capturing the subtle markers of masculinity in an accessible and engaging manner. This book is not only a delightful sequel to How to Read a Dress, but an essential text for any library and also makes a helpful companion to The Dress Detective. * Ingrid Mida, Curator, Dress Historian and Author *Lydia Edwards' superb choice of illustrations, and excellent analysis, make this book an essential complement to How to Read a Dress. Men's clothing, so often ignored, is here given its rightful place in costume history. * Jean Druesedow, Kent State University Museum, USA *The idea that men ever renounced fashion is eloquently disproved by this book. Packed with images of sartorial splendour, it is an invaluable resource to anyone interested in the male wardrobe. * Cally Blackman, Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London, UK *Table of ContentsAcknowledgments Preface Introduction Chapter 1: 1666-1700 Chapter 2: 1700-1799 Chapter 3: 1800-1859 Chapter 4: 1860-1899 Chapter 5: 1900-1939 Chapter 6: 1939-1969 Chapter 7: 1970-2000 Glossary of Terms Notes Bibliography Photographic Credits Index

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Book SynopsisConstruction is the foundation of fashion design; it takes passion and great skill to turn a two-dimensional drawing into a successful garment. Construction for Fashion Design guides readers through the process, teaching the theory, practical skills and techniques that they need to succeed. It leads readers through the essential stages of creating a garment, from pattern cutting and draping on the mannequin to sewing techniques and haberdashery. This fully revised and expanded second edition features insightful case studies with leading creative practitioners at the cutting edge of the fashion industry today, complete with detailed, step-by-step exercises that enable readers to contextualise their knowledge and put it into practise for the creation of their own successful projects.Trade ReviewA quick reference book which truly demonstrates the interconnectivity between fabric handling and garment construction methods. -- Gayle Ramsden, University of the Fraser Valley, CanadaI love the format and design – it’s funky, practical and easy to use. -- Sue Martin, Basingstoke College of Technology, UKExcellent book. Visual and informative. * Angela Loftus, BA (Hons) Fashion Course Tutor, Bradford College, UK *Table of ContentsIntroduction 1. Getting Started Pattern Cutting Tools and Equipment; Silhouettes; Sizing and Grading; Blocks and Patterns; Student Exercise; Case Study 2. Pattern Cutting How to Read a Design Drawing; Dart Manipulation; Slash and Spread; Sleeves; Collars; Pockets; Bias Cut; Fitting the Toile; Laying a Pattern on to Fabric; Student Exercise; Case Study 3. Garment Construction Tools for the Technique; Seams; Seam Finishes; Hand-Sewing Techniques; Student Exercise; Case Study 4. Surface-Specific Techniques Felted Fabrics; Lace; Leather; Fur; Knits and Stretch-woven Fabrics; Sequinned and Beaded Fabrics; Velvet; Transparent Fabrics; Student Exercise; Case Study 5. Haute Couture and Tailoring Haute Couture; Designing Haute Couture; Tailoring; Tailoring Techniques; Student Exercise; Case Study 6. Draping on the Mannequin Modeling Tools and Equipment; Grain Line and Draping; Draping Style; Geometric Shapes; Inspired Designers; Student Exercise; Case Study 7. Support and structure History of Supported and Structured Garments; Supporting Materials; Interlining/Fusing; Corsetry; Creating Volume; Student Exercise; Case Study 8. Finishes Linings; Facings; Fastenings; Haberdashery; Student Exercise; Case Study Conclusion Glossary Bibliography Useful resources Acknowledgements and picture credits

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Book SynopsisA rich and authoritative sourcebook on silk, with more than 600 colour illustrations.Trade Review'Luxurious ... any fan of fashion will devour this exquisite volume' - Publishers WeeklyTable of ContentsIntroduction 1. Plain and Simple: Plain weave; Satin; Chiffon; Crêpe; Gauze; Stripes and checks; Shot silks. Case Histories 2. Warps and Wefts: Figured gauze; Damasks and satin compounds; Lampas and compound weaves; Brocading; Tapestry weave; Velvet; Carpets with knotted pile; Jacuard woven; Gold and silver threads 3. Twine and Twist, Net, Knot and Knit: Twinning; Twisting and Netting; Knotting; Lace; Knitting and Crochet 4. Paint, Resist and Print: Painting; Freehand paste resist; Resist-dyeing; Tie-dyeing; Resist-dyeing and Batik; Stencilling; Ikat; Block printing; Copper plate printing; Roller printing; Screen printing; Digital printing; Gold and Silver 5. Stitch, Slash, Stamp and Pleat: Embroidery and Appliqué; Stamping; Slashing; Punching and Burning; Watering; Pleating and Smocking

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Book Synopsis"Suzanne's fashion image are beautiful, bold and often strange. They perfectly capture the sartorial way of life on the runway of streets." — Amateur Photographer Shoes are part of the basic equipment of our everyday wardrobe. They can be seen as a utilitarian necessity, or as a unique and joyful fashion accessory that influences the entire outfit and makes it a distinctive expression of personal style, be it vintage or avant-garde, elegant or edgy, minimalist or extravagant. In It's All About Shoes, street style photographer Suzanne Middlemass presents a colourful mix of fab and fantastic shoes that are worn on the asphalt catwalks of the fashion capitals of the world, including New York, Paris, Milan, London, Berlin, and Copenhagen. This revised edition includes interviews with renowned shoe designers and asks them about design inspiration and sustainability.Trade Review"Suzanne's fashion image are beautiful, bold and often strange. They perfectly capture the sartorial way of life on the runway of streets." - Amateur Photographer"Street style photographer Suzanne Middlemass has captured both fashionistas and everyday individuals who dare to wear beautiful or strange, but always interesting shoes." - Knightsbridge

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Book SynopsisWorldwide heart-throbs BTS exploded onto the internet in 2010 with their infectious tunes and youthful looks. As cheeky as the Beatles and as stylish as Rihanna, these electric, rapping, K-pop crooners have brought a fresh dose of Korean culture to the Western World, along with a series of awesome outfits.From the close harmonies of their stage-show uniforms to the fabulous discordance of their solo styles, BTS have dressed for success from day one. And it's no wonder every announcement, every new song and every social media post is met with a web-breaking rapture. Having changed the face of the music biz forever, their ascent to the highest reaches of pop stardom continues to defy borders, language barriers and cultural differences everywhere.The perfect gift for fans and fashionistas alike, BTS and the Clothes They Wear celebrates the Bangtan Boys' biggest fashion mic drops.

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Book SynopsisAccompanying a major exhibition at The Museum at FIT, Latin American and Latinx Fashion Design Today: Moda Hoy! examines Latin American and Latinx fashion design from the past 20 years, asking What is Latin American fashion design in the 21st century?The book seeks to explore the sociohistorical influences and cultural dynamics that have propelled the development of the unique sartorial bricolage that is Latin American and Latinx fashion. Through a series of themes and topics favored by contemporary designers including Indigenous heritage, art, sustainable design, politics, gender, elegance, and popular culture it highlights established designers with a strong international presence, such as Isabel Toledo, Carolina Herrera, Rick Owens, Oscar de la Renta, Carla Fernández, and Gabriela Hearst. Accompanied by regional brands and emerging talents, and case studies that take an in-depth look into specific designers, and beautifully illustrated in full color throug

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Book SynopsisAn introduction to the design, production and use of luxury embroideries in medieval England (c. 1200–1530).Trade Review"Superb, razor-sharp reproductions which give a proper sense of the beauty and power of the medium… its intellectual value is undoubted."—Paul Binski, Art Newspaper“There are over 160 full colour illustrations found herein and a wealth of historical information offered in the essays that accompany each chapter. If you are interested in Opus Anglicanum or the inheritance of medieval English Catholic culture, this is a work you will want to pick up for your collection.”—Shawn Tribe, Liturgical Arts Journal"Not only a catalogue and scholarly monograph, but a visual feast, with magnificent colour plates on virtually every page, bursting at the seams with titbits of fascinating information. It’s the sort of book that makes you want to hug yourself with glee: revelatory and as exquisitely produced as the medieval embroidery it celebrates."—Juliet Barker, Literary Review‘This beautifully produced new book […] fills a notable gap in current literature on English embroidery.’ — Frances Pritchard, Textile History “First published to accompany the V&A’s exhibition of English Medieval embroidery in 2016, this new edition confirms its status a valuable reference on the subject.”—Embroidery

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Book SynopsisA groundbreaking traveling exhibition, Out of the Box showcases sneakers, from the mid-nineteenth century to sports performance breakthroughs, to present-day cultural icons. Drawn from the collection of the Bata Shoe Museum and significant private collectors, museums, and archives—including adidas AG, Converse Archives, Kosow Sneaker Museum, Nike Archives, Northampton Museums and Art Gallery, and Reebok Archives—this selection is richly contextualized with interviews and essays by design innovators, sneaker collectors, and cultural historians, creating a backdrop of the technical innovation, fashion trends, social history, and marketing campaigns that shaped the form over the past two centuries. Out of the Box includes sneakers ranging from an 1860 spiked running shoe, a pair of 1936 track shoes, Air Jordans I–XX3, the original Air Force 1, and early Adidas Superstars to contemporary sneakers by prominent figures including DamiTrade Review"A web of historical and cultural connections, Out of the Box draws people from all corners of the creative industry . . . [It] is a complex, incisive account of the sneaker’s reinvention over two centuries of technology, marketing, fashion and social trends."-ISSUE MAGAZINE"For those devotees . . . 'Out of the Box: The Rise of Sneaker Culture' will be something akin to a holy text. The book tracks the rise of sneakers from athletic necessity to icon of American casual wear, and features interviews with designers, curators, and collectors, plus hundreds of photos of the most grail-status kicks of all time."-REFINERY29.COM"[Out of the Box] is thoughtful, highly educational, and covers many bases from interviews with prominent design innnovators to the marketing campaigns that came to define modern day sneaker culture." -HYPEBEAST.COM

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Book SynopsisAn armchair discovery tour of truly remarkable places, captured in SJ Axelby's inimitable watercolours. This follow-up volume to SJ Axelby's Interior Portraits transports the reader to bars, cafes, museums, shops, hotels, tearooms, restaurants, gardens, trains and more, around the world.This is an insider's guide to the classic, the cool and the quirky, with locations around the world hand picked by SJ and painted in her trademark bright and detailed watercolours. All the featured places have something special, whether that's a stunning position, centuries of history, designer interiors or a touch of good old-fashioned glamour.The text offers the reader intriguing details and insider knowledge about the history and design of these locations plus there's also the occasional cocktail recipe! Curated by an artist with an appreciation of the fine details, SJ Axelby's Painted Travels is a taste-filled tour to delight and inspire the reader.A small selection of the c.60 destinations that areTrade Review‘Pure escapism on every page.’ – ELLE Decoration Praise for SJ Axelby: ‘SJ brings a new and refreshingly relaxed style to the pantheon of interiors painters, joining familiar luminaries like Mary-Ellen Best and Alexandre Serebriakoff with a painterly flourish.’ – Ashley Hicks ‘SJ’s watercolours are for me pure escapism. They transport you into another dimension, literally into other rooms that through her touch feel so cosy and dreamy. She creates atmosphere with her brush and paint and they are all a visual feast for the eyes.’ – Martina Mondadori ‘I love Sarah-Jane’s charming interiors paintings, she has an eye for the quirky and depicts the real homes of interesting people so well.’ – Sophie Conran

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Book SynopsisSLEEK. CHIC. NOTORIOUSLY GUARDED. WELCOME TO THE SECRET WORLD OF COCO CHANEL.Justine Picardie's definitive biography explores the dark mysteries hidden beneath the shimmering surface of a fabled fashion icon. Unveiling remarkable details about Coco Chanel's traumatic childhood and her flight into unconventional adulthood, this beautifully constructed portrait reveals her passionate and painful past, her turbulent loves and losses, her quest for fame and fortune, and how she transformed herself into her own most powerful creation.Feared and revered by her contemporaries, Chanel died in 1971, but her legacy lives on as an enduring global brand. Drawing on interviews with her last surviving friends and relatives, and unprecedented archival research, Justine Picardie brings Chanel out of hiding, unpicking the seams between reality and myth, and telling a timeless story that uncovers the true art and heart of fashion.This special new edition has been extensively revised and updated, and offers a uniquely authoritative account of the greatest designer in the world. Adding fresh insights and discoveries, it comes complete with a compelling array of previously unseen images from the Chanel archives.

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Book SynopsisFashion Ethics provides a comprehensive overview of the ethical issues in the fashion industry, from collection design concept to upcycling and closed loop production. This book answers an urgent need for a comprehensive understanding of the fundamental ethics of the fashion industry.Sue Thomas goes beyond the usual contentious issues of environmental impact and human rights, taking the reader deeper into the endemic issues including sizeism, ageism, animal rights, and the lack of diversity in models and in the media. The book lays out the significant ethical issues within the fashion supply chain by mapping the lifecycle of a garment and exploring key topics such as deep ecology, cultural copyright speciesism, the role of the customer, and technology in future ethics. It also features current international industry information and industry-relevant case studies from brands, media and mobile technology, and NGOs including Oxfam (UK), Redress (Hong Kong), Nimany (US), Labor Link (US), People Tree (UK), and Peppermint (Australia).Fashion Ethics provides much-needed information for fashion students, industry professionals, and customers.Trade Review‘Thomas breaks new ground by examining the fashion value chain through a lens of ethics. Fashion Ethics provides a comprehensive view of the fashion landscape, from industry stakeholders to the end user, and points to both a radically altered global fashion system and new research areas for fashion studies for years to come.’Timo Rissanen, Assistant Professor of Fashion Design and Sustainability, Parsons School of Design, New York 'Sue Thomas expertly leads the reader through an insightful and challenging critique of the ‘fast fashion’ system. The coverage of serious impact of over-production and consumption on humanity and the environment are unravelled in her highly accessible book on fashion ethics. She is an inspirational advocate for change!' Liliana Pomazan, Senior Lecturer, School of Fashion and Textiles, RMIT University, Australia'In Fashion Ethics, Sue Thomas uses her commanding knowledge of the fashion industry and engaging writing style to guide readers through a breadth of uncomfortable ethical issues that demand reflection and consideration. Thomas advocates for shared responsibility and collaboration to "dream big" about how to integrate compassion for all stakeholders into the industry – and then for making the choices necessary to secure the future of the fashion industry and the planet. A must-read for every first year fashion student and for any industry professional whose work intersects with the design, production, marketing, wear, or disposal and reincarnation stages of the product lifecycle.' Marsha Dickson, Department of Fashion and Apparel Studies, University of Delaware, USA 'In this informative and topical text, Thomas introduces the reader to a wide range of subjects and debates concerned with ethics, and the production and consumption of fashion products. In the chapters we explore themes that have been (and perhaps still remain) largely "invisible" to the fashion system – from ageism, sizeism, and racism, to concerns for environmental impacts and intellectual copyright. Throughout the text, Thomas challenges designers, retailers and consumers to consider what it is to be ethical, and how this should/could be demonstrated in the way that we make, sell and use clothes. Fashion Ethics has to be a must read for all burgeoning fashion students and consumers.'Alison Gwilt, Reader in Fashion Design and Sustainability, Sheffield Hallam University, UK"I would recommend this book to anyone who works within or is interested or engaged in the fashion industry. In fact, I reckon it should be required reading for all fashion students, as they (we) are the future of the industry and we need the moral backbone to back up our decisions and their impacts."Urbanity, November 2017Table of Contents1. Introduction 2. Design, ethics, and the designer 3. Production 4. Marketing 5. Wear 6. Disposal and reincarnation 7. Future ethics 8. Conclusion

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Book SynopsisA Financial Times Book of the Year 2022A glamorous tribute to Karl Lagerfeldâs highly influential creations for Chanel captured behind the scenes by US Vogue photographer Robert Fairer in beautiful, never-before-seen images. Casting a new light on one of the best-loved chapters in fashion history, Karl Lagerfeld Unseen: The Chanel Years illuminates key Chanel collections and creations from behind the scenes. From discreet client fittings in rue Cambonâs immaculate black-and-beige salons to previously unseen backstage moments that show models, hairdressers, stylists, make-up artists and Karl Lagerfeld himself at work, Robert Fairerâs stunning and high-energy photographs capture the elegance, glamour and spirit that defined Karl Lagerfeldâs shows for Chanel. Texts by Karl Lagerfeldâs collaborators and friends provide a fresh perspective on his creative process and reveal the stories behind the now iconic designs. A treasure trove of inspiration, this publication will beTrade Review'Documents the designer’s immense range with the fashion house founder’s brand codes, and demonstrates the family spirit and culture of excellence Lagerfeld inspired and nurtured' - WWD'Almost impossible not to float away on a wave of nostalgia' - Fashion United'First and foremost, it fulfils the raison d’etre of every good coffee table book: it in and of itself is a work of art' - New York Journal of Books'Karl Lagerfeld Unseen: The Chanel Years is a pass not only to the backstage of the shows, but also to the Paris atelier on rue Cambon. Unique photographs reveal the secrets of the work of models, make-up artists, tailors, as well as the designer himself and his closest entourage' - Vogue Poland'Pays tribute to a pivotal chapter in fashion history' - i Newspaper'Behind-the-scenes photographs chosen from tens of thousands of images from the mid-1990s to 2006 immortalize not only Lagerfeld’s voracious curiosity and vast range, but also the supermodel and celebrity-fuelled golden era of fashion. Consider it your cheat sheet for the Met Gala's 2023 theme, “Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty"' - ZED'If you get a little thrill from seeing hitherto undiscovered triumvirate shots of ‘00s Amber/Kristen/Linda … well, we won’t have to explain why you need this book' - Glass

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Book SynopsisA stylish collection of legendary designer Yves Saint Laurent's maxims on fashion, craft, women and inspiration, presented in an attractive gift format. Founded by Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé in 1962, shortly after the young couturier left his post at the helm of Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent would soon become one of the most successful and influential haute couture houses in Paris. Introducing Le Smoking, the first tuxedo suit for women, in 1966, Saint Laurent also presented iconic art-inspired creations, from Mondrian dresses to precious Van Gogh embroidery and the famous Ballets Russes collection. The designer put the women who wore his clothes first (What's most important in couture is the body we dress, the woman we dress, more so than the ideas we might have') and was determined to change attitudes of the era (Fashion's purpose was not only to make a woman look beautiful, but also to reassure them and to give them confidence'). He could be critical of the fas

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Book SynopsisAn updated authorized edition of Isabelle Fiemeyer's literary biography of Coco Chanel, which demystifies the legendary designer's life. Coco Chanel was an emancipated fashion revolutionary. Raised by nuns in an orphanage, she rose to become a star of the world of couture and a byword for stylish elegance. But now, a fascinating new light can be shed on her life and career. During the Second World War, Chanel closed her couture house, but accepted the enemy's help in rescuing her beloved nephew from a prison camp. However, as newly declassified information reveals, she did not supply any information in exchange for this favour. Moreover, it now seems that she was unknowingly listed as an agent because of her British connections and friendship with Winston Churchill. Featuring unpublished and exclusive content based on first-hand interviews with Chanel's great-niece and confidante, this evocative portrait is based on years of painstaking archive research and tells the true stoTrade Review'No author knows the story of Coco Chanel better than Isabelle Fiemeyer' - Paris Match'A remarkable document that reads like a novel' - Le Parisien'Isabelle Fiemeyer clearly and sensitively traces the intimate portrait of this genius couturier, grande dame of the twentieth century' - Lire Magazine

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Book SynopsisShowcasing more than sixty pieces from the Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent Foundation and the Museum of Lace and Fashion collections, Sheer highlights the designer's mastery over transparent fabrics. Through archival drawings and photographs, and newly shot sheer silhouettes designed by Yves Saint Laurent from the collections of the Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris and the Museum for Lace and Fashion, Calais, Sheer: The Diaphanous Creations of Yves Saint Laurent highlights the couturier's pioneering work in lace and other sheer fabrics, uncovering how he was able to overturn codes of unveiling the body to present a new, powerful and sensual feminine figure. The book shows how he worked to reveal' the body of the woman wearing his clothes with both elegance and audacity: the Nude Dress of 1968, for example, made entirely of transparent chiffon, provided modesty' in the form of ostrich feathers. Original outfits, sketches, collection boards and fabric swatches give an intimate window into the designs, while photographs of models and clients such as Catherine Deneuve and Naomi Campbell bring to life the designer's creations in a way that still shocks even now. Sheer is an essential read for fashion fans, and a fascinating and unique look at the work of one of the great designers.

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Book SynopsisA stunning showcase of Azzedine Alaïa's remarkable fashion collection, most published here for the first time. Azzedine Alaïa (19352017) was not only a world renowned fashion designer but also an avid collector of vintage fashion. Based on a major exhibition at the Palais Galliera, Paris, the book showcases the extensive collection he built up over the decades, driven by his fascination with the history of couture and his desire to conserve its heritage for future generations. Accumulated in the utmost secrecy and never revealed during his lifetime, the sumptuous selection of garments ranges from the 19th-century elegance of Jacques Doucet and the House of Worth to the names that shaped 20th-century fashion Chanel, Balenciaga, Dior, Schiaparelli and on to contemporary innovators such as Jean Paul Gaultier and Alexander McQueen. Captured in specially taken photographs, these meticulously crafted pieces are a tribute to Alaïa's unerring tastes, to the couturiers who inspired

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Book SynopsisOrganized chronologically by publication, this book showcases a carefully curated selection of the most exceptional illustrations from couture albums and magazines. It offers a unique chance for illustrators, artists, designers and fashion enthusiasts to discover the rarely seen images that defined a short but magnificent golden age.Trade Review'Stunningly beautiful' - Sewing World'This beautiful book captures the mood of a great period of fashion illustration at its stylish and wittiest best. I loved it' - The Business of FashionTable of Contents1. The Art of Dress • 2. Poiret’s New Kingdom • 3. Queen of the Rue de la Paix • 4. Marin and the Modiste • 5. Stylizing ‘La Femme’ • 6. Opulence Resurrected • 7. Art, Fashions, Frivolities • 8. The Follies of Fashion • 9. In Style • 10. The Artist of Luxury

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Book SynopsisA celebration of the craftsmanship and elegance behind the timeless French brands whose rich heritage is the cornerstone of men's style.Trade Review'Sheds light on the histories of famous bespoke houses and little-known studios alike' - The RakeTable of ContentsPreface • Introduction • 1. The Parisian Bespoke Tailoring: Cifonelli; Camps de Luca; Francesco Smalto; Berluti Atelier Arnys • 2. Of Men and Shoes: Men and Shoes, a contemporary love story: John Lobb; Berluti; Corthay; Aubercy; J.M. Weston; Dimitri Gomez • 3. Chemisiers in Paris: Charvet • 4. The Art of Travelling: Louis Vuitton special orders; Moynat Paris • 5. Parisian Haute Parfumerie: Guerlain; Caron • 6. Gentlemen’s Requisites: Cartier; St Dupont • 7. One of a Kind Houses: Maison Bonnet, the only bespoke eyewear maker in the world; Marc Guyot, the spirit of Apparel Arts in Paris; Simonnot Godard (estd 1787), the most beautiful handkerchieves in the world; Mellerio (estd 1613), the most ancient jeweler in the world.

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Book SynopsisDescribed by an admirer as the High Druidess of fashion, the Supreme Pontiff, Perpetual Curate and Archpresbyter of elegance, the Vicaress of Style', Diana Vreeland is the cloth from which 21st-century fashion editors are cut. Diana joined Harper's Bazaar in 1936, where her pizzazz and singular point of view quickly made her a major creative force in fashion. During her time at Harper's Bazaar and later as the editor-in-chief of Vogue, the self-styled Empress of fashion' launched Twiggy's career, advised Jackie Kennedy, and enjoyed the full swing of sixties' London. In Diana's Vogue, women were encouraged to resist fashion orders from on high, and to use their own imaginations in re-creating themselves much as Vreeland spent her own life doing. In this book, Amanda Mackenzie Stuart portrays a visionary: a fearless innovator who inspired designers, models, photographers and artists. Diana Vreeland reinvented the way we think about style and where we go to find it. As an editor, curator and wit, she made a lasting mark and remains an icon for generations of fashion lovers.Trade Review'A stylish, funny, fond and vivid book' - Sunday Times'The research for this book has been exhaustive, but Mackenzie Stuart wears it lightly … she writes movingly about Vreeland's marriage without any intrusive psychoanalysis, and her warmth, enthusiasm and particular genius come through in entertaining anecdotes and marvellous quotes' - Spectator'Paints an enthralling picture of a mesmerising character who left an indelible print on 20th-century fashion' - Hello!

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Book SynopsisClaire Wilcox is Senior Curator, Department of Furniture, Textiles and Fashion at the V&A and Professor in Fashion Curation, London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London. Elizabeth Currie is a lecturer and author specializing in fashion and textiles. She was formerly a research fellow at the Royal College of Art and an assistant curator in the Fashion, Textiles and Furniture Department of the V&A.

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Book SynopsisGabrielle 'Coco' Chanel was, without doubt, the most influential designer of the 20th century. This book honours her influence by celebrating the key elements that defined and still define her style through inspired pairings of classic and contemporary photographs.Trade Review'A sumptuous book that links the couture house’s past classics to its present collections' - Harper’s Bazaar'A visual feast' - ASOS Magazine'Innovative … vibrant and telling … a highly detailed and informative pictorial biography on the legend that is Coco Chanel' - f22 Magazine'It is the pairing of classic and contemporary photographs, that makes this book unique, and most effectively illustrates the simplicity of Chanel’s work that allows it to be endlessly reinterpreted afresh... a rewarding testament to the most iconic of design houses, and of women' - The Scotsman'Intriguing and stunningly beautiful' - Cassone

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Book SynopsisFrom workaday marigolds to handwear custom-crafted for the Queen, gloves perform many functions--insulation from the cold, protection from injury, and even ceremonial roles. Gloves have been used since prehistoric times, but in Britain their use as formal and fashionable items took off during Elizabeth I''s reign, and played a surprisingly significant cultural role well into the nineteenth century. They were often given as precious gifts, used in coronation ceremonies, sent to indicate assent, or even to offer a formal challenge. This beautifully illustrated history, published in association with the Worshipful Company of Glovers of London, delves into the glove''s place in history, offers detailed descriptions of their production in the artisanal workshop and on the factory floor, and also tells the fascinating story of the closely guarded privileges of the glove-makers'' guilds.Table of ContentsGloves Speak Many Languages / The Glove-making Profession / Materials and Manufacture / Gloves in Fashion / Gloves in the Twenty-first Century / Further Reading / Places to Visit / Acknowledgements / Index

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Book SynopsisThe definitive history of Hollywood's most legendary costume designer, featuring an insightful biography and previously unseen sketches, ephemera, and photos behind the scenes of hundreds of iconic films.  All About Eve. Funny Face. Sunset Blvd. Rear Window. Sabrina. A Place in the Sun. The Ten Commandments. Scores of cinema classics of the last century had one thing in common: Edith Head (1897-1981). She racked up an unprecedented 35 Oscar nods and 400 film credits over the course of a fifty-year career, and changed the fashion world forever with her timeless creations that continue to resonate and inspire present-day designers, fashion followers, and film-lovers.Edith Head is the definitive portrait of the most influential costume designer of the twentieth century. Within these pages, historian, photographer, and collector Jay Jorgensen brings together rare, never-before-seen sketches, fabric samples, costume tests, and behind-the

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Book SynopsisThe definitive work on the collaborations between Louis Vuitton and artists, designers, architects, and photographers. This newly revised and updated edition brings the previous book up to the present, now celebrating the most recent and inspiring collaborations with Nicolas Ghesquière, Frank Gehry, Yayoi Kusama, and Steven Meisel, among others. The more than eighty collaborators featured in this book comprise an A to Z of Vuitton’s creative collaborations, especially from the last decade, with significant chapters devoted to the work of Nicolas Ghesquière, Marc Jacobs, Takashi Murakami and other key collaborators. Never forgetting the long tradition of the house, the period covered by the book—from the late 1990s through the present day—will describe the role that Louis Vuitton is playing in a crucial moment in global fashion. Now with 536 pages, this edition features more than 130 pages of stunning new imagery that showcases the i

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Book SynopsisA celebration of 50 years of Hip Hopâ??s vibrant history, and its transformative influence not just on American music and culture, but across the world. This vivid chronicle of the rhythm, rhyme, and reason of Hip Hop is told through intimate narratives, over 150 iconic images, and the voices of Hip Hop's founding artists. Co-authored by the legendary LL COOL J, celebrated journalist Vikki Tobak, and Rock The Bellsâ?? editorial director Alec Banks, this unparalleled collection is a must-have for music fans.â?Personal Stories from Hip Hop Luminaries: Firsthand accounts from the likes of DJ Kool Herc, Salt-N-Pepa, Eminem, Mary J. Blige, Snoop Dogg and many more. â?Insights from Hip Hop Royalty: Written contributions from an A-list roster including Rakim, MC Lyte, Jay-Z, and many more. â?Iconic Shots from Photographic Legends: Contributions from Joe Conzo Jr., Ernie Paniccioli, Jonathan Mannion, and others who chronicled Trade Review"A beautifully illustrated homage to 50 years of hip-hop in the words of the icons who were there at the beginning. Includes rarely seen images and recollections from Salt-N-Pepa, Public Enemy, Run-D.M.C., Mary J. Blige and more. Peep Ludacris as a cutie child on page 288." — ASSOCIATED PRESS"Celebrate half a century of a revolutionary musical movement with “The Streets Win: 50 Years of Hip-Hop Greatness,” an LL COOL J joint that brings together stunning photography, illuminating artifacts and intimate testimonials from many of the people who took rap music from a Bronx block party to the world stage." — THE NEW YORK TIMES"And finally, equally as epic is LL Cool J Presents: The Streets Win, 50 Years of Hip-Hop Greatness, a photographic encyclopedia of the art form and the legends who birthed it, like DJ Kool Herc, to today’s titans, like Jay-Z." —Neil Patrick Harris, WONDERCADE"For the culture! On the 50th anniversary of the birth of Hip-Hop, rap statesman and entertainer LL COOL J adds to the celebration with this book that traces the journey of the genre that shaped music, fashion and culture. It’s filled with icon stories from all the greats, as well as photos from back-in-the-day block parties, street scenes, album covers, graffiti art and music videos." —MANSION GLOBAL"Presented under the auspices of rap’s first G.O.A.T., LL COOL J, and his Rock The Bells enterprise, [The Streets Win] is part coffee-table book—replete with both rare and truly iconic imagery of hip-hop’s elder luminaries—and part Who’s Who reference book with contextualizing entries for each person pictured. Through a focus on the individual players and participants who gave shape to what we know today as hip-hop, it lovingly tracks hip-hop’s beginnings and development through the early 2000s. Oversize and weighty, it reflects the culture’s bombast with its scale." — AIRMAIL "...this glossy Rizzoli book chronicles [hip-hop] history in photos, interviews and essays." — WSJ. MAGAZINE"In their new book, LL COOL J Presents The Streets Win: 50 Years of Hip-Hop Greatness, author, journalist, and music photography curator Vikki Tobak and the editorial director of LL Cool J's Rock The Bells Alec Banks celebrate hip-hop's 50th birthday by highlighting the culture, sound, and voices that created the genre." — COMPLEX "Through the eyes of two-time Grammy award-winning artist LL Cool J, and co-authored by Vikki Tobak and Alec Banks, this commemorates half a century of hip hop with more than 150 images from the genre’s most celebrated photographers." — FINANCIAL TIMES, HOW TO SPEND IT "Grammy Award–winning Rock & Roll Hall of Fame inductee LL COOL J, journalist/music-photography curator Vikki Tobak (Ice Cold: A Hip-Hop Jewelry History), and journalist/Rock the Bells editorial director Alec Banks use vibrant imagery and firsthand accounts to tell the story of how some of hip-hop’s prominent voices first came to know the genre in this eye-catching photobook. Most of the pictures are a mixture of energetic action shots during performances; portraits of the subjects also loom large in one- or two-page spreads. Readers will learn that Pepa of Salt-N-Pepa was inspired by Run DMC and that Ludacris fell in love with hip-hop after performing an LL COOL J song during a talent show in fourth grade. In other stories, performers and DJs discuss their childhoods, what keeps them going, and their perspectives on the culture. Refreshingly, there are also recollections either from or about graffiti artists, album-cover designers, clothing designers, and studio owners. VERDICT - A treat for hip-hop fans of all ages." — LIBRARY JOURNAL "In his new book The Streets Win: 50 Years of Hip-Hop Greatness, rapper and actor [LL COOL J] celebrates the history of the genre, which, he says ‘facilitated all my dreams.’” — PEOPLE MAGAZINE "This eye-catching survey…spotlights important players in hip-hop history, from the 1970s, when skeptics believed the genre “had the same shelf life of a carton of milk,” to the moneymaking phenomenon enmeshed in today’s popular culture. [The book's] all-star lineup and the treasure trove of photos...bring to vivid life the energy and history of hip-hop." — PUBLISHERS WEEKLY

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Book Synopsis A gorgeously illustrated look at the profound influence that classical ballet and the ballerina have had on high fashionBallerina: Fashion’s Modern Muse is a revelatory, irresistible treat for dance aficionados and fashionistas alike. Couturiers such as Balmain, Balenciaga, Chanel, Schiaparelli, Charles James, Dior, and Yves Saint Laurent designed ballet-inspired dresses and gowns, many featuring the boned bodices and voluminous tulle skirts of classical tutus. And ready-to-wear designers such as Claire McCardell found inspiration in ballet leotards and other practice clothing, creating knitted separates, bathing suits, and wrap dresses. Written by fashion and ballet experts, the book is illustrated with archival photography by such masters as Richard Avedon, Edward Steichen, Irving Penn, Man Ray, and Cecil Beaton, along with newly commissioned photography of contemporary ballerinas wearing ballet-influenced couture.

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Book SynopsisFrom arthouse darling to household name, Timothée Chalamet''s spectacular rise to fame has been accompanied by a fashion evolution to match. Icons of Style explores Timothée''s most daring looks, with over 100 photographs of every iconic ensemble accompanied by in-depth analysis diving into each outfit. By embracing technical tailoring, bright colours and bold accessories - from sequin harnesses to his signature black stomper boots - Timothée has redefined modern menswear and cemented himself as a true fashion visionary. With each on-screen and sartorial success, Timothée continues to set Hollywood - and the fashion rule book - on fire.

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Book SynopsisFashion has always been strongly linked with the politics of gender and equality. In this global and interdisciplinary collection, leading authors explore the relationships between the dressed body, fashion, sex, and power, with an emphasis on the role of dress in both reinforcing and challenging social norms.Covering a range of geographic and social contexts, the book explores the role of fashion in empowering both individuals and groups to create transformation and change. Taking us from the performance of black dandyism through stylized hats, to the use of challenging dance forms and male-inspired dress by female South African dancers to express independence and equality, to ways in which recent Bond Girls have challenged traditional gender binaries, the book provides a crucial entry point into discussions of fashion as an empowerment strategy.Fashion, Agency, and Empowerment encourages the reader to critically examine the cultural and social impact of sexual objectification,

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Book SynopsisHighlighting the skills and considerations needed to manage products, Virginia Grose introduces key processes such as product development, the supply chain and branding to help you quickly get to grips with the business side of fashion. Examining traditional and newer roles within the industry, discussing the roles of buyers, retailers and merchandisers interviews and case studies give insight into the realities of this competitive industry. This second edition has all new case studies, interviews and projects as well as coverage of sustainable practice, the use of social media, the circular economy and slow fashion. There's also more on digital storytelling, online and offline retailing and elements of retail entertainment for customers plus the impact of fast fashion throughout the industry.Trade ReviewPraise for the first edition: I think this is a book that should be given to every fashion student ... [it] contains a goldmine of information for a novice and holds important considerations for the professional. -- Sheri Lee, Fashion designer and writer, www.safashiongirl.comExcellent, really a beautiful book. -- Young Kim, Kent State University, USATable of ContentsIntroduction 1. Context and Concept From couture to high street Designer typology Research and idea generation Trend forecasting Interview: Emily Gordon-Smith Case study: EDITED Chapter summary 2. Product Development The role of design in business The product mix Garment specifications: sampling Interview: Steven Tai Case study: MATCHESFASHION.COM Chapter summary 3. Retail Strategy Defining retail strategy Implementing retail strategy The marketing mix: position The marketing mix: place The marketing mix: price The marketing mix: people Interview: Richard Hurtley Case study: Farfetch Chapter summary 4.The Fashion Supply Chain Background of the textile industry and supply chains What is fast fashion? Global sourcing and world class supply chain models Sustainability in fashion supply chains Risk measures and controls in fashion supply chains Logistics and outsourcing in the supply chain Interview: Liz Leffman Case study: Kering Group Chapter summary 5. Fashion Brands Customer Profiling Building a Brand Luxury Brands Mass Market and Fast Fashion Brands Storytelling & Brand Promotion Brand Protection Interview: Paul Alger Case study: The British House Chapter summary Conclusion Glossary Bibliography Useful Websites

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Book SynopsisCostume is an active agent for performance-making; it is a material object that embodies ideas shaped through collaborative creative work. A new focus in recent years on research in the area of costume has connected this practice in vital and new ways with theories of the body and embodiment, design practices, artistic and other forms of collaboration. Costume, like fashion and dress, is now viewed as an area of dynamic social significance and not simply as passive reflector of a pre-conceived social state or practice. This book offers new approaches to the study of costume, as well as fresh insights into the better-understood frames of historical, theoretical, practice-based and archival research into costume for performance. This anthology draws on the experience of a global group of established researchers as well as emerging voices. Below is a list of just some of the things it achieves:1. Introduces diverse perspectives, innovative new research methods and approaches for researcTrade ReviewThe ambition and reach of this collection is superb and timely. For those of us working in the area of design, education and practice, this is the book we have been waiting for. [...] Performance Costume contains diverse, yet complementary, perspectives offering a rich and textured resource and is the most significant contribution to the expanded field of costume studies to date. * Studies in Costume & Performance *Performance Costume does an impressive job at covering many areas in the complex world of costume design ... In spite of its expansive scope, this compilation can serve as a useful overview for aspiring costume designers seeking a deeper appreciation for the craft and any reader interested in academic costume theory and research. * Journal of Dress History *A truly pioneering exploration and discovery of new fields of costume study, Performance Costume is the first of its kind. It broadens costume study from within the theatre to consider the design process and its practices and, significantly, aspects of wearing and social significance, looking at TV, cinema, schools, hospitals and the street, alongside theatre. Terrifically stimulating and important ... * Christopher Baugh, University of Leeds, UK *An invaluable resource that is authoritative, international in scope, timely, and riveting. It is unique in its breadth of material, methodologies, and combination of contributions by academic and theatre practitioners in articles and 'snapshots'. * Patricia Lennox, New York University, USA *Table of ContentsList of Figures Notes on Contributors Foreword - Maija Pekkanen (Costume Designer, Finland) Foreword - Simona Rybáková (Costume Designer, Czech Republic) Acknowledgements Introduction: Activating Costume: A New Approach to Costume for Performance - Sofia Pantouvaki (Aalto University, Finland) and Peter McNeil (University of Technology Sydney, Australia) Section 1: Interpreting and Curating Costume 1.1 Real or Virtual?: Studying Historical Costume Drawings and Sketches - Margaret Mitchell (University of the Incarnate Word in San Antonio, Texas, USA) 1.2 Cooking: Studying Film Costume Design - Drake Stutesman (Barrymore Film Center, Fort Lee, USA) 1.3 Displaying Stage Costumes: Exhibitions at the National Centre for Stage Costume, France - Delphine Pinasa (Centre National de Costume de Scène, France) Snapshots 1.4. Cross Cultural Costume Research: Beijing Opera Costumes - Alexandra B. Bonds (University of Oregon, USA) 1.5. Reading Maltese Carnival Costumes - Vicki Ann Cremona (University of Malta) 1.6. Curating Costume – Reflection - Aoife Monks (Queen Mary, University of London, UK) Section 2: Personalities in Costume 2.1. Costume Centre Stage: Re-Membering Ellen Terry (1847-1928) - Veronica Isaac (university lecturer and freelance consultant, UK) 2.2. ‘On and Off the Stage’: Costume, Dress, and Locating the Actor-Manager’s Identity, 1870-1900 - Helen Margaret Walter (Plymouth University and the University for the Creative Arts, Epsom, UK) 2.3. Extravagance, Expense and Notoriety: Gaby Deslys’ French Costumes in America, 1911-14 - Emily Brayshaw (University of Technology Sydney (UTS), Australia) Snapshots 2.4. A Foreign Affair On and Off Screen - Christina M. Johnson (FIDM Museum at the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising, Los Angeles, USA) 2.5. Recording Costume Design in the Theatre and Performance Collections at the V&A: Vivien Leigh and Oliver Messel - Keith Lodwick (Victoria and Albert Museum, UK) Section 3: Costume Voices, Costume Histories 3.1. The First Premiere and Other Stories: Towards a History of the Costume Design Profession in Finland - Joanna Weckman (independent post-doctoral costume researcher, exhibition curator, lecturer and costume designer, Finland) 3.2. Spinning Yarns: Locating, Learning and Listening in the Social World of Popular Hindi Film Costume Production - Clare M. Wilkinson (Washington State University, USA) Snapshots 3.3. Hollywood Costume: A Journey to Curation - Deborah Nadoolman Landis (UCLA David C. Copley Center for Costume Design, USA) 3.4. ‘The Getting of Wisdom’: Learning from Anna Senior - Jennifer Gall (National Film and Sound Archive of Australia) 3.5. Design for TV: Costume and Contemporary Clothing - Chrisi Karvonides-Dushenko (costume designer in theatre, film and television, USA) Section 4: Costume and the Body 4.1. The Body as the Matter of Costume: a Phenomenological Practice - Donatella Barbieri (London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London, UK) 4.2. The Body as Site: Interdisciplinary Approaches to Dress in/as Performance - Jessica Bugg (London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London, UK) 4.3. ‘Aware Wearing’ - a Somatic Costume Design Methodology for Performance - Sally E. Dean (interdisciplinary choreographer, performer, teacher and somatic practitioner, Europe, Asia and USA) Snapshots 4.4. Costuming the Foot: a Designer/Performer’s Personal Artistic Methods - Alexandra Murray-Leslie (artist, researcher, performer and co-founder of the international art collective Chicks on Speed, Australia) 4.5. Costume and the Modernist Body: Fashioning August Strindberg - Viveka Kjellmer (University of Gothenburg, Sweden) Section 5: Costume and its Collaborative Work 5.1. Building Costumes, Building Language in the Costume Workshop - Madeline Taylor (Queensland University of Technology and University of Melbourne, Australia) 5.2. Fitting Threads: Embodied Conversations in the Costume Design Process - Suzanne Osmond (National Institute of Dramatic Art in Sydney, Australia) Snapshots 5.3. Haptic Descriptions – Costume Design by Gillian Gallow and April Viczko - Natalie Rewa (Queen’s University, Canada) 5.4. The Costume Designer´s ‘Golden List’ of Competence - Christina Lindgren (Oslo National Academy of the Arts (KHiO), Norway) Section 6: Costume and Social Impact 6.1. Exploring Rossini’s Berta: Young Audiences and the Agency of Opera Costume - Sofia Pantouvaki (Aalto University, Finland) 6.2. Designing Hospital Clown Costumes: Psychological and Social Benefits for Finnish Children’s Healthcare - Merja Väisänen (Aalto University, Finland) 6.3. Costume of Conflict - Mateja Fajt (independent costume designer and researcher, Slovenia) Snapshots 6.4. From Effect to Affect: the Costumed Body and the Autistic Child - Melissa Trimingham (University of Kent, UK) 6.5. ‘Designing Tsunami’: Costume Evolution from Documentary to Surrealist - Michiko Kitayama Skinner (University of Miami, USA) 6.6. The Collaborative Process of Costume Creation: Travesties in São Paulo - Fausto Viana (São Paulo University (USP), Brazil)

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Book SynopsisWith The Fashion Design Toolkit you'll learn how tried-and-tested techniques like gathers, pleats, tucks, and twists can help you adapt patterns and create your own original garment designs. Tracy Jennings walks you through 18 patterning tactics to inspire fresh ideas, demonstrating how embracing pattern drafting skills can lead to innovative and effective collections. Each technique is illustrated in a variety of contexts, showing how and why it has been used by other designers, so you can use the history of each tool as inspiration for your original collections. Ethical practice is woven throughout the book, with tips on how to implement techniques in an environmentally sustainable way. The 18 essential techniques are divided into 5 categories: Establishing Fit and Flare: Darts, Slash & Spread, Seaming, Insets Channeling Fullness: Gathers, Ruffles, Pleats, Tucks Fashioning the Fluid and Unstructured: Arcs, Flounces, Drapes, Twists Engineering Fabric anTable of ContentsIntroduction 1. Darts 2. Slash and Spread 3. Seaming 4. Insets 5. Textile Designs 6. Gathers 7. Ruffles 8. Pleats 9. Tucks 10. Arcs 11. Flounces 12. Drapes 13. Twists 14. Contouring 15. Reduction 16. Adaptations 17. Structure 18. Zero Waste Edge Finishes Index

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Book SynopsisFashion demands a steady flow of creative ideas. Research and Design for Fashion will guide you through the research techniques that could spark your next original collection.With practical advice on designing effective moodboards, recycling existing garments and getting to know your customer, this new edition will help you master the research process and apply it to your own designs. There''s also a wealth of advice through interviews with exceptional designers, including Christopher Raeburn, ThreeASFOUR and Magdaléna Mikulicáková, as well as updated imagery of the research and design work behind both single garments and entire collections.This fourth edition also explores how cultural events, historical anniversaries and sport influences can be the starting point for a collection. There''s also more on creative ways of recording your findings and designing for menswear, childrenswear and gender-neutral clothing.Trade ReviewA solid foundation for design students to begin their creative journey in an informative and imaginative way, and which delves deep into contemporary issues of experimental cutting, sustainability and new technologies. This is an essential read for any student taking the first step into fashion education and the industry. -- John Lau, London College of Fashion, UKTable of ContentsIntroduction 1. Research—What and Why? What is research? What is the purpose of research? What should research contain? Who are you designing for? Exercise 1: Brainstorming Interview: Veronika Hadjistefanou Interview: Ashish 2. Choosing What to Research Choosing a theme Sources of inspiration Sustainability and ethics Exercise 2: Using primary and secondary research sources Exercise 3: Trends Exercise 4: Recycled garment manipulation Interview: Christopher Raeburn Interview: Dr. Noki 3. Compiling your Research Assembling your research Drawing Collage Analysis of research Sketchbook layout Moodboards Exercise 5: Focus research pages Interview: Magdaléna Mikulicáková Interview: Zowie Broach 4. Designing from your Research Market levels in fashion Genre of clothing Bridging the gap between research and design Model and drape Key elements for design development Design Development Selecting ideas to form a collection Exercise 6: Collaging your research onto figures Exercise 7: Working with the color wheel Exercise 8: Color analysis Exercise 9: Design development Exercise 10: Design development, part 2 Interview: WGSN Interview: Ashley Fletcher 5. Communicating your Ideas Drawing for design Art materials Illustration Technical drawings Layout and composition Beyond the drawing board Exercise 11: Creating a design development six-figure template Exercise 12: Technical drawing by hand Interview: ThreeASFOUR Interview: Shelley Fox Glossary Online resources Bibliography Student resources

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Book SynopsisStories of Fashion, Textiles, and Place follows the journeys of five companies with evolving sustainable supply chains in the fashion and textile industry. Each of the profiled companies are committed to advancing cultural traditions of a particular place. They value, honor, and are all deeply rooted in the geography, culture, and people of a specific location and their success is attributable to their connection to that place. With this shared value, their unique stories highlight the conditions, risks, strategies, and successes in creating and maintaining sustainable supply chains for ready-to-wear and home fashions. The companies include:-Imperial Stock Ranch and Shaniko Wool Company Oregon, USA-Angela Damman Yucatán Yucatán, Mexico-Tonlé Phnom Penh, Cambodia-Indigenous Designs Highlands, Peru-Harris Tweed Outer Hebrides, Scotland, UKWith a focus on economic, social, environmental, and cultural sustainability, and the connection between textiles and place, Burns and CarvTrade ReviewAn eye-opening journey into how sustainable fashion companies can build an economy to increase a global workforce, improve lives, preserve cultures, and reduce their environmental impact. -- Elizabeth Shorrock, West Virginia University, USATable of ContentsPreface 1. Sustainable Supply Chains in the Global Fashion Industry Creating Value and Reflecting Values The Value of Place Sustainable Supply Chains Environmental Sustainability Social and Cultural Sustainability Capacity Building and Employee Empowerment Sustainable Communities Cultural Traditions Economic Sustainability Supply Chain Traceability, Assurance, and Transparency Certifications, Industry Associations, and Partnerships Industry Initiatives, Associations, and Partnerships Learning through Narratives References and Resources 2. Imperial Stock Ranch and Shaniko Wool Company: Natural Adaptations Lambing Season Changing a Mindset: Imperial Stock Ranch, Oregon, USA Starting a Yarn Business: Converting Sunlight Energy From Yarn to Finished Items Ready-to-Wear: Imperial Collection by Anna Cohen Sustainable Bridges: East and West, Rural and Urban The Business Naturally Adapts “The Call” The Power of Purpose beyond Profit Expanding Markets Traceability and Certification A Sense of Place References and Resources 3. Angela Damman Yucatán: Advancing Cultural Traditions A Henequén Bag The Yucatán Peninsula Growing Up in Minnesota, USA Moving to Yucatán Sustainable Agriculture: Cultivating and Processing the Fiber Processing the Fiber: Revitalizing an Industry Shredding, Drying, Combing Dyeing Fibers Revitalizing the Fiber Processing Industry Weaving and Product Development: Advancing Cultural Traditions Facilitating Artisan Groups A New Generation of Weavers Markets and Retailing Cultural Sustainability: Identity, Community, and Purpose References and Resources 4. Tonlé The Mekong and Tonlé Sap Rivers Growing Up The Dichotomy of Cambodian Textiles A Reluctant Businesswoman Transition and Rebranding Zero-waste Model The Artisan Workshop Model The Impact and the Message of Tonlé Today and Tomorrow References and Resources 5. Indigenous Designs: Climbing a Mountain Where Have You Been, My Friend? A Brand Is Born Climbing a Mountain Beyond Ecuador The Artisan Co-op Model Economic Sustainability: Financial Strategies Networks, Organizations, and Certifications Documenting and Communicating Impact Next Steps: Scaling an Artisan Ownership Model References and Resources 6. Harris Tweed®: Às an ghearann tha an t-aodach a’ tighinn / From the Land Comes the Cloth Clò Mòr History of the Harris Tweed Industry Harris Tweed Act 1993 and the Harris Tweed Authority Structure and Supply Chain of Harris Tweed Crofting and Wool Production Processing Wool: The Foundation of Harris Tweed Harris Tweed Mills Washing and Dyeing Wool Blending, Carding, and Spinning Wool Preparing the Warp Textile Design Weaving Harris Tweed Harris Tweed Weavers The Weaving Process Finishing and Inspecting Harris Tweed Marketing Harris Tweed: Power of the Orb Marketing Harris Tweed Markets for Harris Tweed: Tradition and Evolution Using the Harris Tweed Label on Finished Products Protecting the Orb From the People Comes the Cloth References and Resources 7. Creating and Reflecting Values through Sustainable Supply Chains The Value of Place in Sustainable Supply Chains The Value of People in Sustainable Supply Chains The Value of Product in Sustainable Supply Chains Characteristics of the Founders, CEO, Partners, and Artisans References and Resources Epilogue and Recommended Reading

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