Cultural studies: dress and society Books

Book SynopsisSpurred by an increasingly international and competitive market, the Renaissance saw the development of many new fabrics and the use of highly prized ingredients imported from the New World. In response to a thirst for the new, fashion's pace of change accelerated, the production of garments provided employment for an increasingly significant proportion of the working population, and entrepreneurial artisans began to transform even the most functional garments into fashionable ones. Anxieties concerning vanity and the power of clothing to mask identities heightened fears of fashion's corrupting influence, and heralded the great age of sumptuary legislation intended to police status and gender through dress.Drawing on sources from surviving garments to artworks to moralising pamphlets, this richly illustrated volume presents essays on textiles, production and distribution, the body, belief, gender and sexuality, status, ethnicity, and visual and literary representations to iTable of ContentsList of Illustrations Introduction Elizabeth Currie (freelance lecturer and author specialising in the history of fashion and textiles, UK) Chapter 1 – Textiles Maria Hayward (University of Southampton, UK) Chapter 2 – Production and Distribution Susan Vincent (University of York, UK) Chapter 3 – The Body Isabelle Paresys (Université de Lille, France) Chapter 4 – Belief Cordelia Warr (University of Manchester, UK) Chapter 5 – Gender and Sexuality Ann Rosalind Jones (Smith College, USA) Chapter 6 – Status Catherine Richardson (University of Kent, UK) Chapter 7 – Ethnicity Eminegül Karababa (Middle East Technical University, Turkey) Chapter 8 – Visual Representations Anna Reynolds (Deputy Surveyor of Paintings, Royal Collection Trust, UK) Chapter 9 – Literary Representations Gerry Milligan (City University of New York, USA) Notes Bibliography Notes on Contributors Index

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Book Synopsis''Compelling'' HARPER''S BAZAAR''Richly textured'' GRAZIA''Completely riveting . . . an eclectic compendium of style, subversion and literary snippets . . . all about the magical meaning of clothes'' CALENDAR MAGAZINEMaya Angelou imagined she''d feel like a movie star in a dress of lavender taffeta. Rachel Weisz loves the democracy of denim. Zadie Smith''s look differs depending on whether she''s in New York or London, while Joan Didion always packed the same clothes. Jarvis Cocker found inspiration at jumble sales, Bella Freud in Colette''s novels and Harris Reed in the gender fluidity of Virginia Woolf''s Orlando. Oscar Wilde understood the importance of proportions, Stanley Tucci favours a narrow stripe and Chloë Sevigny delights in traditional, with a twist. For Bernardine Evaristo style is about a refusal to be stereotyped. Jilly Cooper and Trade ReviewStellar * PANDORA SYKES *A rich and broad-ranging compendium of essays, interviews and eclectic snippets . . . sure to kindle plenty of curiosity and unexpected journeys of discovery; whether literary or sartorial. This curated patchwork of writing - new, old (both rediscovered and iconic) - is a perfect metaphor for the way Garnett works with clothes as a stylist, of course. She has a special skill for putting together a fashion editorial with an unexpected mix of designer and thrifted pieces, that makes the storytelling resonate with personality and vibrant life. * Calendar Magazine *Super stylist Bay Garnett has created a new, brilliant tome for the codes of dressing by excavating how others do it. Everyone from Joan Didion to Oscar Wilde, Chloe Sëvigny to Susie Cave appear in her new book Style and Substance - a perfect read for anyone looking to find a new lease of style life or just interested in examining the way icons dress. * i-D *A richly textured collection of essays . . . all about ideas and about cutting out the white noise of what you think you should do. What each perspective touches on is the importance of wearing clothes that feel true to who you are. * Grazia *Through a collection of essays, extracts and interviews, the esteemed stylist draws together a glorious celebration of the clothes we wear and the meaning behind them. From the looks of Maya Angelou and Zadie Smith to the power of drag and brilliance of thrifting, this is a wide- ranging delight. * i News *Gathering voices from past and present, Style and Substance peeks into the hearts and wardrobes of aesthetes including Chloë Sevigny, Stanley Tucci and Oscar Wilde. * Financial Times *A compelling new encyclopaedia of style. * Harper's Bazaar *Thoughtful and gloriously eclectic . . . a mix of old and new, which only amplifies Bay's ability to storytell. The perfect stocking filler! * Fashion Roundtable *A book where gravity mingles with frivolity, humour with weight, never taking itself or its subject too seriously,but allowing it the attention it deserves. In a world of fleeting trends, Bay Garnett has created an accessory to treasure, earning Style And Substance an enduring place in the canon of fashion literature. * Irish News *

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Book SynopsisTracing the story of women at home and in work, from the jet buttons of Victorian mourning, to the short skirts of the 1960s, taking in suffragettes, bachelor girls, little dressmakers, Biba and the hankering for vintage, this book lifts the lid on women's lives and their clothes.Trade ReviewA charming work of social history * Bookseller *Knight explores her own family’s history and, in parallel, the intimate history of women in the 20th century… The politics of being a modern woman are revealed through changing fashions… In Knight’s hands, buttons – the humblest of everyday objects – become portals into the past, charting our progress along that road. -- Lucy Moore * Literary Review *Charming book… Knight’s brilliant notion is to use the button box she inherited from her grandmother as a way of delving into the fabric, literal and metaphorical, of the women who wore them… A patchwork of memory, anecdote and deft quotation. -- Daisy Goodwin * The Sunday Times *Inspired by her own shimmering box of toggles, clasps and buckles, Knight takes us on an ingenious tour of domestic and social history over the last century… From this core of very personal material, Knight writes more generally of ordinary women’s lives and changing prospects over three generations, of clothes as self-expression, as defiance, as entertainment, as evidence of frugality and frivolity all rolled into one. -- Claire Harman * Guardian *The drama of women’s lives from the 19th to the mid-20th century was hidden in plain sight among the brightly coloured buttons that rattled so enticingly in [Knight’s] grandmother’s Quality Street tin… Fascinating social history. -- Jane Shilling * Daily Mail *

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Book SynopsisAlexa Chung''s IT: the Top Ten Bestseller from the international fashion muse and Vogue contributing editorNow a Penguin paperback, this one-off collection of Alexa Chung''s writing, doodles and photographs combines stories of early style inspirations such as her grandpa and the Spice Girls with discussion of figures of obsession like Jane Birkin and Annie Hall, reflecting on heartbreak, how to get dressed in the morning, the challenges of taking a good selfie, and more. Interspersed with pages from Alexa''s notebooks and many a photo of a good night out, It is now perfectly sized for any bag - handbag or otherwise. Witty, charming and with a refreshingly down-to-earth attitude, It is a must-have for anyone who loves fashion, worries about growing up, or loves just about everything Alexa Chung. ''If you love Alexa Chung, buy it. If you are interested in fashion and style, buy it. If you''re after a book full of pretty pictures and inspo, bTrade ReviewIf you love Alexa Chung, buy it. If you are interested in fashion and style, buy it. If you're after a book full of pretty pictures and inspo, buy it * Cosmopolitan *It's a teenage girl's dream come true - an honest insight into one of the world's most copied style ambassadors * Vogue *Alexa Chung's debut book has got us hooked * Marie Claire *

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Book SynopsisA stylish guide to environment-friendly ways of buying, wearing, caring for and decluttering your wardrobe.Trade Review'Packed with advice on reducing waste in your wardrobe by renting, swapping or using other clever recycling methods' - Sunday Telegraph

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Book SynopsisFrom Margaret of Anjou to Katherine Parr, All the Queen's Jewels examines the jewellery collections of the ten queen consorts of England between 14451548 and investigates the collections of jewels a queen had access to, as well as the varying contexts in which queens used and wore jewels.The jewellery worn by queens reflected both their gender and their status as the first lady of the realm. Jewels were more than decorative adornments; they were an explicit display of wealth, majesty and authority. They were often given to queens by those who wished to seek her favour or influence and were also associated with key moments in their lifecycle. These included courtship and marriage, successfully negotiating childbirth (and thus providing dynastic continuity), and their elevation to queenly status or coronation. This book explores the way that queens acquired jewels, whether via their predecessor, their own commission or through gift giving. It underscores thTrade Review‘This study offers a fresh interpretation of queenship and the ways in which queens wielded power in late Medieval and early modern society. Jewellery is often dismissed as a trivial topic when in fact it is at the heart of politics. Tallis remarkably reveals its true importance in defining and challenging power--especially when it came to queens. Thoroughly researched and with an accessible prose, this book is undeniably a significant contribution to the field and is going to be a great resource for students, scholars, and members of the public alike who have an interest in queens and power.’Estelle Paranque, New College of the Humanities, UK‘This exciting new work is an excellent example of innovative new work in queenship studies, tracing the evolution of the queen’s jewel collection during a particularly turbulent period from the Wars of the Roses to the last of Henry VIII’s six wives. This engaging read demonstrates the importance of the queen’s jewels in underpinning her role by projecting majesty as well as enhancing her networks through gift exchange.’Elena Woodacre, University of Winchester, UK‘This study of the jewel collections of the queens consort of England between 1445 and 1548 offers a fluent, engaging, and very informative account of an important aspect of female royalty. Nicola Tallis’s book contributes original research to a generation of scholarship into the material history of late-medieval European queenship, drawing on evidence from inventories, wills, portraiture, commissions to artisans, and correspondence. The book presents a comprehensive account of the production, acquisition and care of the queens’ jewels and their use as personal adornment and gifts in a wide range of contexts. It ably demonstrates how the deployment of the queens’ jewels was an integral part of the magnificence of Plantagenet and Tudor monarchy.’Glenn Richardson, St Mary's University, UK"Nicola Tallis has justifiably established herself as an expert not just on the English queens’ jewellery collection but how these pieces advertised power, augmented influence, and shaped reputations in the early modern era. An important, groundbreaking, and fascinating book." Gareth Russell, Historian and Broadcaster.Table of ContentsIntroduction 1. An Introduction to Jewellery and the Queenly Use of Jewels 2. The Wills of the Queens of England, 1445-1548 3. The Jewel Inventories of Jane Seymour, Katherine Howard and Kateryn Parr 4. Portraiture 5. Goldsmiths and Commissioning Jewels 6. Gifts of Jewels 7. The Crown Jewels 8.Conclusion

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Book SynopsisFrom rumps and stays to muffs and handkerchiefs, underwear and accessories were critical components of the 18th-century woman's wardrobe. They not only created her shape, but expressed her character, sociability, fashionability, and even political allegiances. These so-called ephemeral flights of fashion were not peripheral and supplementary, but highly charged artefacts, acting as cultural currency in contemporary society. The Modern Venus highlights the significance of these elements of a woman's wardrobe in 1770s and 1780s Britain and the Atlantic World, and shows how they played their part in transforming fashionable dress when this was expanding to new heights and volumes. Dissecting the female silhouette into regions of the body and types of dress and shifting away from a broad-sweeping stylistic evolution, this book explores these potent players within the woman's armoury. Marrying material, archival and visual approaches to dress history, and drawing on a rich range of sTrade ReviewMeticulously researched and methodologically innovative, The Modern Venus reveals how underwear and accessories shaped not just women's bodies, but their engagement with the world. This sumptuous book is a must read for anyone interested in 18th-century material, literary and visual culture. * Jennie Batchelor, University of York, UK *A seriously interesting fashion history book on late 18th-century underwear and accessories, based on first-rate research. Great images, highly readable and intelligently planned and written. * Lou Taylor, University of Brighton, UK *Table of ContentsList of Figures Acknowledgements List of Abbreviations Introduction: Fashioning the Modern Venus 1. Head First: Brimmed Hats and Calashes on the Tides of Fashion 2. ‘Let Us Examine Their Tails’: The Material and Satirical Lifecycles of Cork Rumps and Bums 3. By Hand: Silk and Fur Muffs 4. Tight Lacing: The Motifs and Materiality of Stays Conclusion: ‘The Fickle Goddess’ Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisDressing up. Partying all night. This is the world of 1970s fashion, and this book is your backstage pass.Featuring over 25 exclusive interviews with the movers and shakers of the 70s scene, including Grace Coddington, Zandra Rhodes, Willy van Rooy, Marie Helvin, Pat Cleveland, Elsa Peretti and more, Behind the Gloss lifts the lid on the hedonistic, wild world of the 1970s.They were the designers who dressed the Rolling Stones, Charlotte Rampling and Catherine Deneuve; the photographers who shot Diana Ross, Lauren Hutton and Jerry Hall; the fashion editors, hairstylists and make-up artists who worked with some of the most beautiful women in the world; and they would change the fashion world forever.Featuring images, sketches and Polaroids exclusively sourced from the contributors' archives, Behind the Gloss tells the revelatory story of the decade of experimentation.Table of ContentsMarie Helvin • Caroline Baker • Harry King • Sandy Linter • Sundays in Rome (Hazel Collins) • Grace Coddington • Corey Grant Tippin • Zandra Rhodes • Willy van Rooy • Lunch with Yves (Marie Helvin) • Rick Gillett • Chris Royer • Virginia Bates • Clive Arrowsmith • Naked with Gia (Sandy Linter) • Pat Cleveland • Elsa Peretti • Willie Christie • Barbara Hulanicki • The Battle of Versailles (Chris Royer and Pat Cleveland) • Barbara Daly • Beverly Johnson • Thea Porter • The Biba Shop Girl (Kim Willott) • Cheryl Tiegs • Magazine Wars (Lizzette Kattan)

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Book Synopsis'Whatever the style, shoes have a message to be heard, and nowhere is it clearer than in this collection of some of the best fashion images of their age.' - Alexandra ShulmanThe third book in the popular Vogue portfolio series, now available at the more pocket-friendly price of £30.In Vogue: The Shoe, Harriet Quick has curated more than 300 fabulous images from a century of British Vogue, featuring remarkable styles that range from the humble clog to exquisite hand-embroidered haute couture stilettoes via fetishistic cuissardes and outrageous statement heels. Contains some of the best fashion photography available, including shots from Vogue's peerless archive of fashion images by the likes of Hoyningen-Huene, Irving Penn, Corinne Day, Norman Parkinson, Arthur Elgort and Nick Knight. Reissued with a luxurious real cloth cover, this is essential reading for fashionistas everywhere.Includes a foreword written by Alexandra Shulman, former editor-in-chief of British Vogue.Trade ReviewWhatever the style, shoes have a message to be heard, and nowhere is it clearer than in this collection of some of the best fashion images of their age. * Alexandra Shulman *Take it from Cinderella: fairy tales are all about shoes in the end. Vogue, the source of many a fashion fairy tale, unites 100 years' worth of exquisite footwear in a new book, Vogue: The Shoe, featuring more than 300 images by Irving Penn, Nick Knight, Corinne Day and many others. Because beautiful shoes are every outfit's happy ending. * The Telegraph *

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Book SynopsisThis is my love letter to the nation that gives us the blueprint for international style. From Grace Kelly in her Pringle of Scotland twinset to Cher and Dionne tartan-twinning in Clueless, it all returns to Alba. In How Scotland Dressed the World, Lynne Coleman explores the country’s rich cultural impact on the modern world. Telling the tales of the cloth that covers continents and how it has been woven into political and economic movements. No matter what style tribe you subscribe to, this book shows how it all starts in Scotland. From ‘gallus’ and ‘peely-wally’, to ‘tartan-punk’ and Ralph Lauren’s ‘preppy chic’, whoever you are, however you dress, you will always have a piece of Scotland with you – even if it’s only in the lining of your wellies!Trade Review'With her twin passion for rich history and modernity, Lynne Coleman is a global champion of Scottish fashion via every medium imaginable.' The HeraldTable of ContentsIntroduction 8 Gallus 12 Romance 22 Peely-wally 38 Grunge 44 Trews 58 Preppy 62 Ode to the Welly 82 Gothic 84 Ned 98 Royalty 102 Bunnet 116 Punk 126 Goonie and Goodnight 144 Picture Credits 152 Acknowledgements 159

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Book SynopsisA good handbag makes the outfit. Only the rich can afford cheap shoes. The only thing worse than being skint is looking as if you're skint.'For centuries, an interest in clothes has been dismissed as the trivial pursuit of vain empty-headed women. Yet, clothes matter, whether you are interested in fashion or not because what we choose to dress ourselves in defines our identity. For the immigrant arriving in a new country to the teenager who needs to be part of the fashion pack or the woman turning forty who must reassess her wardrobe, the truth is that how we look and what we wear, tells a story. And what a story. THE THOUGHTFUL DRESSER tells us how a woman's hat saved her life in Nazi Germany, looks at the role of department stores in giving women a public place outside the home, savours the sheer joy of finding the right dress. Here is the thinking woman's guide to our relationship with what we wear: why we want to look our best and why it matters. THE THOUGHTFUL DRESSER celebrates the pleasure of adornment

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Book Synopsis"Whether it is a behind-the-scenes look at how these classic styles came to be or taking a front-seat look at how iconic women taught us how what it means to accessorize, this is a must-have for fashion lovers." — BELLA magazine Women love handbags because they are a perfect vehicle — not just for keys, credit cards, and lipstick, but also their dreams and desires. Luxury labels made the humble bag into a billion-dollar business in the 20th century, but the bag is more than just a status symbol. Because it is constantly being reinvented, it wields a greater influence on everyday fashion than any hemline or silhouette. For the Love of Bags is a homage to the power of the handbag: from icons like the Kelly Bag, the first "must-have" item ever, to popular Paris fashion house labels and the latest Instagram stars, this book details the history of the "it" bag and decodes the messages handbags communicate. Text in English, German and French.Trade Review"Get BoF’s perspective on designer bags and small leather goods, covering key competitive shifts, including what, why and how consumers buy in the US and China, the category’s biggest markets." - Business of Fashion"An analysis of the social symbology of this accessory, so often more important than the clothing itself." - Mujer Hoy"For The Love Of Bags is a coffee table book every girl should own, including your bestie. If she's a lover of accessories, she needs this." - Glamour UK"Hermès Birkin. Lady Dior. Chanel 2.55. Fendi Baguette. Handbags and how they became a fashion icon, carried by celebrities from Princess Diana to Sarah Jessica Parker." - South China Morning Post"Whether it is a behind-the-scenes look at how these classic styles came to be or taking a front-seat look at how iconic women taught us how what it means to accessorize, this is a must-have for fashion lovers." - Bella magazineTable of ContentsForeword The Icons It Bags Atelier Bags Insta Bags Form Follows Function Evening Jewels Conversation Pieces Index Biographies Credits & Imprint

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Book SynopsisIn Elegance: The Beauty of French Fashion, internationally renowned fashion illustrator Megan Hess explores ten of France's best-loved designers as a stylish celebration of one of the world’s favourite fashion destinations. From the courts of Versailles to the cobbled streets of Paris, French fashion has always been the epitome of elegance. Whether it's Dior's New Look, Yves Saint Laurent's Le Smoking jacket or Chanel's little black dress, the masters of French fashion understand that clothing is more than a craft: it’s an art form. Megan Hess’s love for French style sparked her career in fashion illustration. In these pages, she unspools the threads of ten legendary designers – Chanel, Dior, Saint Laurent, Lanvin, Givenchy, Chloé, Balmain, Louis Vuitton, Hermès and Celine – to discover the origins of haute couture, prêt-à-porter and everything chic. Accompanied by Megan’s exquisite illustrations of current and archival collections, Elegance: The Beauty of French Fashion tells the story of how France’s iconic fashion houses have influenced the very fabric of design. Trade Review‘This book I found is adorable!’ – Britney Spears

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Book SynopsisKimono Design: An Introduction to Textiles and Patterns uses hundreds of photographs and a wealth of information on colors, fabrics and embellishments to paint a portrait of Japanese culture, art and thought. Lavish classical patterns, sweeping scenes, and the many motifs that have been woven, dyed, painted or embroidered into these textiles reveal a reflectiveness, a sense of humor, and an appreciation of exquisite beauty that is uniquely Japanese. Organized according to motifs traditionally associated with each season of the year, Kimono Design interprets the kimono's special language as expressed in depictions of: Flowers and grasses Birds and other animals Symbols of power, luck and prestige Land-and-seascapes scenes from literature, history and daily life scenes of travel and the Japanese concept of other lands and many others… Extensive notes on all the motifs demonstrate how the kimono reflects changing times and a sense of the timeless. Information on jewelry, hairpins and other accessories is scattered throughout to give a fuller sense of the Japanese art of dress. This is a volume that Japanophiles, historians, artists and designers will all cherish.Trade Review"This beautiful volume--with stunning color photographs--is visually pleasing and will especially benefit those interested in fashion design and the garment industry." --Publishers Weekly"A useful guide and introduction that will appeal to designers, Japanophiles, cultural historians as well as those interested in kimono and traditional Japanese fashion." --Japan Visitor"Whether you are seeking a dose of history with your surface design, or simply wanting to be visually stimulated and inspired, I highly recommend checking out Kimono Design." --Pattern Observer blog

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Book SynopsisPierre Berge, longtime partner of Yves Saint Laurent in life and in business, remembers their years together in Morocco in this charming, intimate illustrated journal.

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Book SynopsisThe Vogue Factor is the former Australian Vogue Editor-in-Chief's candid account of life at the heart of the fashion industry, from photo shoots and celebrity interviews to the ugly truth behind the glamour - infighting, back-stabbing and the dangerous pursuit of beauty.This is the behind-the-scenes story of an illustrious career in fashion, from receptionist to the editor's chair. It's a life of dazzling parties, outrageous fashion and exotic travel that most people can only dream of. But behind the glossy photos is a hidden world of chaos and pressure, where girls as young as twelve starve themselves to fit into a sample size.Kirstie Clements' eye-opening account of life in fashion's fast lane has hit headlines all over the globe. Both a celebration and a critique of this extraordinary industry, The Vogue Factor is this season's must-have

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Book SynopsisWhat would happen if we turned our back on fast fashion trends? If we took time to slow down, to take pride in caring for our clothes and making them last as long as possible? These are the questions at the heart of Steamery''s mission. Since 2014, the brand has developed a wide range of products specially designed to bring out the best of your wardrobe. Now Steamery is sharing its secrets to inspire you to not only appreciate the garments you love, but to find joy in the mindful act of clothing care.With quick and simple tips, The Art of Clothing Care shows you how making small changes can go a long way in keeping your wardrobe looking wonderful.This comprehensive guide includes tips on checking a garment''s quality, how to shop for pre-loved clothes, keeping your wardrobe fresh and clean without over-washing, how to remove different types of stains, simple clothing repairs and upcycling ideas, as well as inspiring thoughts on the future of fas

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Book SynopsisProviding insight into a broad and expanding range of topics, The Meanings of Dress, 5th Edition examines social, behavioral, and cultural aspects in fashion and dress based on current research and practices. This revised edition responds fully to the current social and fashion trends by including theoretical perspectives of intersectional identities in global landscapes, global fashion and dress, and efforts to decentralize and decolonize the normative Eurocentric approach to fashion and dress studies. This edition includes two brand new chapters: Decentralizing and Decolonizing Fashion and Dress and Social Justice and Human Rights. New emphasis has been placed on how dress and fashion work as communication, not just non-verbal but also explicitly in social media. Issues on ethics in fashion are incorporated now throughout the book. New to this Edition: Theoretical perspectives of intersectional identities in global landscapes, global fashion and dress, an

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Book Synopsis Renowned designer and former US national team oarsman Jack Carlson’s revised and expanded edition of Rowing Blazers is an essential and glorious celebration of the classic garment. This handsome, eye-catching ode to the classic rowing blazer is a must-have for anyone who has raced the rivers or cheered on their favorite crew. Classic American style was born in British boathouses, where the very first blazers were made for college rowing clubs. This book, now revised and expanded, was created by champion rower Jack Carlson, who offers an insider’s guide to the elaborately striped, piped, trimmed, and badged garments, as well as the stories, historic clubs, and races associated with them and, of course, the elite athletes themselves. Featuring stunning color photographs, Rowing Blazers is a visual feast, transporting readers to the highly atmospheric boathouses, campuses, and team rooms of clubs around the world.

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Book SynopsisShortlisted for the CSA Millia Davenport Publication Award, 2021Listed as one of The Five Most Essential Books about Art and Fashion, ArtNews, 2023 Dress and fashion are central to our understanding of art. From the stylization of the body to subtle textile embellishments and richly symbolic colors, dress tells a story and provides clues as to the cultural beliefs of the time in which artworks were produced. This concise and accessible book provides a step-by-step guide to analysing dress in art, including paintings, photographs, drawings and art installations. The first section of the book includes an introduction to visual analysis and explains how to read' fashion and dress in an artwork using the checklists. The second section offers case studies which demonstrate how artworks can be analysed from the point of view of key themes including status and identity, modernity, ideals of beauty, gender, race, globalization and politics. The book includes iconic as welTrade ReviewThis will be an invaluable resource for fashion and art history students, encouraging them to go beyond the simple process of describing, towards a deeper level of analysis ... This book will also be of interest to those without a background in fashion history who are seeking to become more confident in their ability to interpret the meaning of clothing in a painting, photograph, or print. More experienced dress historians may find they already apply many of the recommended practices subconsciously, although this book might help lend an additional layer of systematic rigour to the process, facilitating new insights. * The Journal of Dress History *[An] essential primer for understanding how knowledge of dress can aid critical analysis of art. * The Five Most Essential Books About Art and Fashion, ArtNews *Reading Fashion in Art offers a fantastic practical guide to tackling the process of analyzing the representation of dress in the visual arts. * Dress: The Journal of the Costume Society of America *It is thrilling to have a book that so clearly details how important the knowledge of existing dress and dress history is to the interpretation of apparel represented in other media, and to the enhanced understanding of works of art. * Jean L. Druesedow, Kent State University Museum, USA *A thorough, thoughtful guide to evaluating the role and impact of clothing in art — useful not only for students and scholars, but also for anyone curious about fashion or art. * Justine De Young, Fashion Institute of Technology, USA *An important, accessible book that beautifully highlights the symbiosis between art and fashion history ... At its core is an approach which is sorely needed in scholarship and beyond: the acknowledgement that appreciation, understanding and enjoyment is best gained through slow, insightful engagement with the past. The tools to achieve all three are presented within these pages. * Lydia Edwards, Author *Table of ContentsIntroduction 1 Artists & Wardrobes 2 The Slow Approach to Seeing 3 Observation 4 Reflection 5 Interpretation 6 Fashion & Identity 7 Fashion & Modernity 8 Fashion & Beauty 9 Fashion & Gender 10 Fashion & Politics Coda Appendix I Checklist for Observation Appendix II Checklist for Reflection Appendix III Checklist for Interpretation Bibliography Image Credits Index

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Book SynopsisSince the democratisation of the clothing industry in the early 19th century, buyers have become increasingly disconnected from the creative and human aspects of the production of clothing. Arguably clothing is now valued less for its aesthetic qualities or because of the hours spent in its making, but more for the extent to which it serves current fashion'. In a climate of increasing anxiety about the environmental and social impact of the contemporary global fashion industry, Rachel Worth suggests that, rather than seeking solutions only in the present, looking to history can assist in understanding better the challenges consumers face today in making decisions about the contents of their wardrobes, which, in turn, will impact on the nature of the future global fashion industry. She does not seek to offer simplistic historical solutions to contemporary problems, but explores ways in which it might be possible to bridge divides between knowledge of the past, current individual choiceTrade ReviewThe social, cultural and physical entanglement of attire with status, aspiration and livelihood is vividly articulated in this rich discourse. Drawing on the work of great poets and writers including Clare and Hardy, the reader is drawn into a reflection on the relational aspects of being human in a more than human world. * Dilys Williams, Centre for Sustainable Fashion, UK *Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Introduction 1. The Hidden Language of Clothing Nursery Rhymes, Fabric and Clothing Rhymes about Clothing and Class Rhymes with an Advisory or Cautionary (Clothing) Theme Rhymes about Clothing Poverty 2. From Democratisation to Fast Fashion Technological Change and the Cotton Industry Developments in the Making and Retailing of Ready-made Clothing Adoption of the Sewing Machine Retailing Revolution (I) The Democratisation of Shoe Production Retailing Revolution (II) Democratising Colour 3. Sustainability and Clothing in Context The Emergence of Fashion The Road to Fast Fashion The Backlash Against Fast Fashion The Fabric of Fashion Conundrum Transparency on the Label The Use of Fur and Feathers 4. The Human Factor: Clothing, Growth and Alternative Economic Paradigms ‘Sweating’ and the Fight for a Minimum Wage The Move to Outsourcing The ’Economics’ of Fast Fashion 5. Clothing, Nature and the Environment Clothing in Pastoral Narratives Nature Fights Back Nature and the Arts and Crafts Movement 6. Philosophies of Dress Oscar Wilde: The Philosophy of Dress Mary Eliza Haweis; The Art of Dress Eric Gill: Clothes Conclusion Bibliography Index

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Book Synopsis''I loved this book!'' - Alison Weir''[A] lively, gossipy forage through royal wardrobes'' - Daily Mail''A sparkling history'' - Dr Kate StrasdinPeek into the wardrobes of history''s most fashionable royalsWhy did women wear such heavy and uncomfortable skirts in the Elizabethan era?What the hell happened to Charles II''s pubic hair wig?How did Princess Diana''s revenge dress become so iconic?Fashion for the royal family has long been one of their most powerful weapons. Every item of their clothing is imbued with meaning, history and majesty, telling a complex tale of the individuals who wore them and the houses they represented.From the draping of a fabric to the arrangements of jewels, the clothing worn by royals is anything but coincidental. King at just nine years old, Edward VI''s clothes were padded to make him seem stronger and more manly; and the ever-consci

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Book SynopsisEnergizing and bold, this major revision of Silent Selling: Best Practices and Effective Strategies in Visual Merchandising, 6th Edition, invites students to embrace a big picture view of the retail design industry. They will study global events and innovations with current multimedia resources in neuroscience and business, hand-picked by author Judy Bell. Her pioneering work with color palettes and her look-compare-innovate process will pave the way to sales-driving strategies. Students will be equipped to face the future with real world wisdom from industry leaders, and will be encouraged to create their own signature style. New to This Edition-The book opens with wisdom from philosophers like Aristotle and psychologists like Eric Fromm along with four Creative Wizards, active in the retail design industry today, offering guidance and inspiration. -Two new features: Neuroscience Pop-Ups! explore the science behind visual merchandising and Designers'' Pet Peeves e

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Book SynopsisBring a Parisian je ne sais quoi to your style, wherever you live. Dress Like a Parisian is a wise and witty guide to finding your personal style, taking inspiration from how real Parisian women dress. With personal stylist and fashion blogger Aloïs Guinut as your guide, you can explore which colours, shapes and styles work best for you, whatever the occasion. Aloïs reveals Parisian style secrets, rejects restrictive fashion rules and shares her favourite shops and brands, demonstrating how you can use fashion to enhance your personality rather than shaping your personality to fashion. In the words of the patron saint of Parisian women, Yves St. Laurent, 'fashions fade, style is eternal.'This book is illustrated with photography shot on the streets of Paris plus illustrations by acclaimed fashion illustrator, Judith van den Hoek, who has worked with Elle, Hermes, Vogue, Prada and Grazia.

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Book SynopsisThis book contains everything you need to know about suits, from the traditional designs of the early 1900s, to innovative contemporary variations. It was awarded Financial Times’ Fashion Book of the Year. Clothes maketh the man. For millions of men across the world the common denominator that identifies them is the suit. Just three and a half metres of fabric, some internal shaping elements, lining, buttons and several metres of thread are all it takes to produce the jacket-and-trouser combination that can be seen from boardrooms to bars, wherever men gather. In Sharp Suits we examine the fascinating history and evolution of the modern suit from the late seventeenth century to date. From eighteenth-century bespoke to the mass industrialization of the twentieth century, we see how the uniform of the ruling classes became the utilitarian outfit of the worker. A series of thematic chapters also illustrate how the universal staple of a man’s wardrobe can play many different roles and, chameleon-like, can mean different things in different situations. From the Duke of Windsor to The Thin White Duke, David Bowie; from James Brown to The Jamel from Guys and Dolls to The Godfather, movie stars, rock stars, heroes and villains, philanthropists, presidents and gangsters – all these men and many more have dressed to impress in a matching jacket and trousers and have found that a suit will suit them very well. ‘Clothes can ‘do a job’. A well-cut suit can make you slimmer, taller, sexier, more elegant or business-like.’ Sir Paul SmithTrade Review‘The ultimate history of the world of suiting’ * The Jackal *

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Book SynopsisThe award-winning classic on why we must revolutionise the fashion industryTrade Review'Makes a strong case for nothing less than a revolution' -- Emma Watson, actor'An incredible accomplishment' -- Susie Orbach, author of 'Fat is a Feminist Issue''Interrogates today's fashion landscape with rigour - will make you view your wardrobe through a different lens' -- Lucy Siegle, author of 'Turning the Tide on Plastic''A masterclass in unpicking the threads of injustice, exploitation and oppression woven into our clothing. By joining the dots between fashion and capitalism, this is a route map to weave a different story for our clothing, our planet and its people' -- Asad Rehman, Executive Director of War on Want'Thoroughly researched with a reach extending both globally and historically, the book is packed with interesting examples, and Hoskins' engaging style makes it eminently readable' -- 'LSE Review of Books''A staple of contemporary fashion literature' -- ‘Austrian Fashion Association’'A classic read for all fashion students, and of course those interested in the politics of fashion. I will refer to my copy for a long time to come' -- Caryn Franklin MBE, fashion commentator and body image activist'A book that hangs like a garment on a coat-hanger. A garment with many pockets. In the pockets numberless notes and remarks about clothes and history. Take it off the hanger and put it on. By which I mean - read it and walk through history' -- John Berger'A controlled demolition, Hoskins uses facts to strip away the apparel trade's decorative exterior and then dynamites the foundations' -- 'Monthly Review''Once you see the fashion industry through Hoskins' anti-capitalist lens what lies behind cannot be unseen' -- 'Public Reading Rooms''A failure to imagine the end of capitalism goes hand-in-hand with a failure to imagine the end of fashion as a commodified sphere in which countless exploited workers labour so that the powerful can wear power-affirming garments. Hoskins' book does wonders to help its readers overcome both failures' -- Yanis VaroufakisTable of ContentsForeword by Andreja Pejić Acknowledgements Introduction 1. Owning It 2. The Fashion Media 3. Buyology 4. Stitching It 5. A Bitter Harvest 6. The Body Politic 7. Is Fashion Racist? 8. Resisting Fashion 9. Reforming Fashion 10. Revolutionising Fashion About the Illustrator Notes Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisOver the past 40 years, Japanese designers have led the way in aligning fashion with art and ideology, as well as addressing identity and social politics through dress. They have demonstrated that both creative and commercial enterprise is possible in today''s international fashion industry, and have refused to compromise their ideals, remaining autonomous and independent in their design, business affairs and distribution methods. The inspirational Miyake, Yamamoto and Kawakubo have gained worldwide respect and admiration and have influenced a generation of designers and artists alike.Based on twelve years of research, this book provides a richly detailed and uniquely comprehensive view of the work of these three key designers. It outlines their major contributions and the subsequent impact that their work has had upon the next generation of fashion and textile designers around the world.Designers discussed include: Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo, Naoki Takizawa, DaiTrade ReviewA comprehensive synthesis of the works and careers of the three Japanese designers who revolutionized the Western fashion world... This is a must read for anyone interested in Japanese fashion. * Yuniya Kawamura, Associate Professor at the Fashion Institute of Technology/State University of New York *I learned a great deal from Japanese Fashion Designers ... [the book is] well researched with complex concepts broken down, and it would certainly be a helpful reference book for anyone remotely interested in Japanese fashion and/or textile technology. * Worn Through *Bonnie English here condenses twelve years of research into a book which examines the emergence of the three leading Japanese fashion designers, Issey Miyake (b. 1938), Yohji Yamamoto (b. 1943) and Rei Kawakubo (b.1942), in the last quarter of the twentieth century... The text is very accessible and illustrated throughout with photographs of the clothes being discussed... Twelve years to write a book testifies to Bonnie English’s dedication and encourages reader confidence. -- Daniel Milford-Cottam, Victoria and Albert Museum, London * Costume *Table of ContentsIntroduction Chapter 1 ISSEY MIYAKE Chapter 2 YOHJI YAMAMOTO Chapter 3 REI KAWAKUBO & COMME DES GARCONS Chapter 4 THE NEXT WAVE Chapter 5 TECHNO TEXTILES Chapter 6 GLOBAL INFLUENCES: CHANGING WESTERN DIRECTIONS Conclusion Bibliography

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Book SynopsisEighteenth-century fashion was cosmopolitan and varied. Whilst the wildly extravagant and colorful elite fashions parodied in contemporary satire had significant influence on wider dress habits, more austere garments produced in darker fabrics also reflected the ascendancy of a puritan middle class as well as a more practical approach to dress. With the rise of print culture and reading publics, fashions were more quickly disseminated and debated than ever, and the appetite for fashion periodicals went hand in hand with a preoccupation with the emerging concept of taste. Richly illustrated with over 100 images and drawing on pictorial, textual and object sources, A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Age of Enlightenment presents essays on textiles, production and distribution, the body, belief, gender and sexuality, status, ethnicity, and visual and literary representations to illustrate the diversity and cultural significance of dress and fashion in the Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Introduction Peter McNeil (University of Technology Sydney, Australia) Chapter 1 – Textiles Tove Engelhardt Mathiassen (National Open Air Museum of Urban History and Culture, Denmark) Chapter 2 – Production and Distribution Beverly Lemire (University of Alberta, Canada) Chapter 3 – The Body Isabelle Paresys (Université de Lille, France) Chapter 4 – Belief Dagmar Freist (Carl von Ossietzky-University Oldenburg, Germany) Chapter 5 – Gender and Sexuality Dominic Janes (University of Keele, UK) Chapter 6 – Status Mikkel Venborg Pedersen (National Museum in Copenhagen, Denmark) Chapter 7 – Ethnicity Barbara Lasic (Sotheby's Institute of Art, UK) Chapter 8 – Visual Representations Christian Huck (University of Kiel, Germany) Chapter 9 – Literary Representations Alicia Kerfoot (State University of New York, USA) Notes Bibliography Notes on Contributors Index

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Book Synopsis'Dame Anna Wintour might be one of the best-known and most successful journalists on the planet. But it wasn't always like that. When she started out on Vogue she was often so miserable she had to phone her husband for help. This is just one of countless fascinating titbits in this zippy story of dizzying fortune, out-of this-world fashion, ingenuity, passion, sex and power.And, this being fashion, some intense bitchiness too. Started as a gossip magazine for snobbish New Yorkers in 1892, Vogue is now one of the most recognisable brands in the world. Spanning London, New York and Paris, this is a high-speed, fun read full of fascinating though not always likeable people.' Daily MailGlossy is a story of more than a magazine. It is a story of passion and power, dizzying fortune and out-of-this-world fashion, of ingenuity and opportunism, frivolity and malice. This is the definitive story of Vogue.Vogue magazine started, like so many great things do, in the spare room of someone's house. But unlike other such makeshift projects that flare up then fizzle away, Vogue burnt itself onto our cultural consciousness. Today, 128 years later, Vogue spans 22 countries, has an international print readership upwards of 12 million and nets over 67 million monthly online users. Uncontested market leader for a century, it is one of the most recognisable brands in the world and a multi-million dollar money-making machine. It is not just a fashion magazine, it is the establishment. But what - and more importantly who - made Vogue such an enduring success?Glossy will answer this question and more by tracing the previously untold history of the magazine, from its inception as a New York gossip rag, to the sleek, corporate behemoth we know now. This will be a biography of Vogue in every sense of the word, taking the reader through three centuries, two world wars, plunging failures and blinding successes, as it charts the story of the magazine and those who ran it.Trade ReviewDame Anna Wintour might be one of the best-known and most successful journalists on the planet. But it wasn't always like that.When she started out on Vogue she was often so miserable she had to phone her husband for help. This is just one of countless fascinating titbits in this zippy story of dizzying fortune, out-of this-world fashion, ingenuity, passion, sex and power.And, this being fashion, some intense bitchiness too. Started as a gossip magazine for snobbish New Yorkers in 1892, Vogue is now one of the most recognisable brands in the world. Spanning London, New York and Paris, this is a high-speed, fun read full of fascinating though not always likeable people. * Daily Mail *Riveting * The Arts Desk *Fashion never seemed more relevant than in this engrossing and unputdownable history of the Queen of them all...the story of Vogue's war years in France is extraordinary . . . wonderful * Miranda Seymour *An enthralling history. * Daily Mail *Nina-Sophia Miralles' Glossy takes readers on an in-depth voyage through the history and workings of Vogue, from the brand's establishment to the people who made it such a success. Branded "the definitive story of Vogue", the insightful retrospective details the 129-year-old publication's triumphs and tribulations, from its humble New York beginnings to its international influence today. * Country and Town House *Glossy: The Inside Story of Vogue, a new book by Nina-Sophia Miralles, is at least as much about the women, and occasional man, who have been the faces of the most potent fashion magazine brand as the actual publication. Rightly so * The Times *Full of stories.... Miralles has an eye for the telling detail. * Irish Times *VOGUE THE LAST WORD IN PUBLISHING GLOSSINESS If ever a magazine understood the special relationship between women and shiny paper, it is Vogue. Launched as "a dignified authentic journal of society, fashion and the ceremonial side of life," its pages have drawn the curious to its privileged glow since 1892. Whether they come to gawp at the hilarious prices or are genuinely seeking clues as to handbag silhouettes for autumn/winter, Vogue is fashion. So after 130 years a history is overdue, and Glossy tells a jaunty story of elite relationships, acute business acumen and some alluringly strange individuals. The great magazine entrepreneur Condé Nast saw its potential when he bought the title in 1909 and aimed it squarely at a market no one had spotted: extremely rich women. The creation of a luxuriant home for advertisers by using the finest editorial ingredients became the Condé Nast brand, and Vogue was its flagship. Nast, with his forensic socialising, is deserving of a book on his own, but the real stars are the outré terrors who have plotted their way into the editor's chair. GLOSSY by NINA-SOPHIA MIRALLES ,a vivacious and gossipy history of Vogue sees it less as a magazine, more as a school of philosophy, based on hauteur, social exclusivity, impeccable taste, and editors whose ideas at times verged on the lunatic. * Strong Words Magazine *Dame Anna Wintour might be one of the best-known and most successful journalists on the planet. But it wasn't always like that. When she started out on Vogue she was often so miserable she had to phone her husband for help. This is just one of countless fascinating titbits in this zippy story of dizzying fortune, out-of this-world fashion, ingenuity, passion, sex and power. And, this being fashion, some intense bitchiness too. Started as a gossip magazine for snobbish New Yorkers in 1892, Vogue is now one of the most recognisable brands in the world. Spanning London, New York and Paris, this is a high-speed, fun read full of fascinating though not always likeable people. * Daily Mail *

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Book SynopsisFashion is ever-changing, and while some styles mark a dramatic departure from the past, many exhibit subtle differences from year to year that are not always easily identifiable. With overviews of each key period and detailed illustrations for each new style, How to Read a Suit is an authoritative visual guide to the under-explored area of men's fashion across four centuries. Each entry includes annotated color images of historical garments, outlining important features and highlighting how styles have developed over time, whether in shape, fabric choice, trimming, or undergarments. Readers will learn how garments were constructed and where their inspiration stemmed from at key points in history as well as how menswear has varied in type, cut, detailing and popularity according to the occasion and the class, age and social status of the wearer. This lavishly illustrated book is the ideal tool for anyone who has ever wanted to know their Chesterfield from their Ulster coat. ETrade ReviewA reminder that even the most devil-may-care of modern male dressers is out-fopped by his antecedents. * Anna Murphy, The Times *Another excellent resource from Lydia Edwards, indispensable both to the fashion history novice and expert alike. * Amber Butchart, fashion historian, author and broadcaster *Lavishly illustrated [and] wonderfully researched … the ‘How to Read’ series of books are perfect research guides for students, researchers and anyone with an interest in historical fashion. * Costume Society UK *A fascinating tome that examines changes in men's fashion in a vibrant and visually striking way ... From the styles of political movements in the French Revolution to the famous 'Palm Beach' suits of America in the 1930s, this is a rich and extensive study of the suit and men's fashion. * All About History *Fans of historical fiction and period dramas will gain new insights into their favorite characters by learning how "clothes make the man" … Collections covering Western culture, fashion, and costume design will want to add this title to this season’s collections. * Booklist *What I enjoyed most was the range of examples included in the book. I thought Edwards did an amazing job selecting and managing disparate sources of inspiration ... this was a terrific book and would serve as an excellent reference for anyone studying or designing menswear and as well as anyone interested in the history of menswear. * Critical Studies in Men's Fashion *How to Read a Suit provides an easy-to-read guide to the history behind subject that is glazed over most of the Edwards, walks the reader chronologically through the history of seventeenth to twentieth century. * The Journal of Dress History *Fun to read. * Hasty Book List *Once again, Lydia Edwards refines centuries of costume history into its most essential elements, capturing the subtle markers of masculinity in an accessible and engaging manner. This book is not only a delightful sequel to How to Read a Dress, but an essential text for any library and also makes a helpful companion to The Dress Detective. * Ingrid Mida, Curator, Dress Historian and Author *Lydia Edwards' superb choice of illustrations, and excellent analysis, make this book an essential complement to How to Read a Dress. Men's clothing, so often ignored, is here given its rightful place in costume history. * Jean Druesedow, Kent State University Museum, USA *The idea that men ever renounced fashion is eloquently disproved by this book. Packed with images of sartorial splendour, it is an invaluable resource to anyone interested in the male wardrobe. * Cally Blackman, Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London, UK *Table of ContentsAcknowledgments Preface Introduction Chapter 1: 1666-1700 Chapter 2: 1700-1799 Chapter 3: 1800-1859 Chapter 4: 1860-1899 Chapter 5: 1900-1939 Chapter 6: 1939-1969 Chapter 7: 1970-2000 Glossary of Terms Notes Bibliography Photographic Credits Index

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Book SynopsisIdeas about the Scottish Highlands which took hold around the turn of the 19th century remain to the present day – for many people across the world Highland dress, bagpipes and Highland landscapes are the images of Scotland that first spring to mind. National Museums Scotland holds a significant collection of Highland dress and tartan clothing. The aims of Dr Rosie Waine's two-year research project include a survey of the collection and an exploration of how such outfits became an integral part of Scottish identity on a global stage.Table of ContentsForeword by Professor Christopher Breward, Director, National Museums Scotland Foreword by David Grant, William Grant Foundation Introduction by Dr Rosie Waine, National Museums Scotland CHAPTERS 1. Highland dress culture and the national collections 2. The rise and influence of the Highland societyies 3. Designing and trading tartan in Georgian Britain 4. Highland style in Georgian Society Afterword List of sources Index Acknowledgements

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Book Synopsis'A sensual and intellectual pleasure from start to finish' - Deborah Levy, author of The Cost of LivingWe are all dressed. But how often do we pause to think about the place of our clothes in our lives? What unconscious thoughts do we express when we dress every day? Can memories, meaning and ideas be wrapped up in a winter coat?These are the questions that interest Shahidha Bari, as she explores the secret language of our clothes. Ranging freely through literature, art, film and philosophy, Dressed tracks the hidden power of clothes in our culture and our daily lives. From the depredations of violence and ageing to our longing for freedom, love and privacy, from the objectification of women to the crisis of masculinity, each garment exposes a fresh dilemma. Item by item, the story of ourselves unravels. Evocative, enlightening and dazzlingly original, Dressed is not just about clothes as objects of fashion or as a means of self-expression. This is a book about the deepest philosophical questions of who we are, how we see ourselves and how we dress to face the world.Trade ReviewBari’s investigation into how we construct our selves, individually and collectively, is a sensual and intellectual pleasure from start to finish. -- Deborah LevyA deeply original, compelling thinker and a brilliant writer. Dressed is the finest philosophy of clothes since Tomas Carlyle’s Sartor Resartus in 1834. Bari’s writing is limpidly clear, informed by a rich literary knowledge, theoretically and historically informed, sensuous and deeply textured, like a piece of luxurious fabric. It is also funny. But make no mistake: this is a work of philosophy. It just happens to be about clothes. -- Simon CritchleyDressed is a feast of a book, a supreme example of the new kind of essay – exploratory, reflective, full of the personal energy of Shahidha Bari herself and also her wide knowledge. -- Marina Warner[A] clever, subtle book… Although [Bari's] writing is critically informed…her tone is insistently personal, intimate even… Between her main chapters she drops in lyrical accounts of her own encounters with specific items of clothing… Bari wants us to think not so much about what clothes say as how they make us feel. -- Kathryn Hughes * Guardian *[There are] many delectable facts waiting to be discovered in Shahidha Bari’s Dressed… Dressed is irresistible when Bari riffs with extraordinary breadth and depth on the cultural meanings of the items she describes… I put Dressed down having been dazzled by Bari’s learning and insights... In the end, Dressed is an argument for taking apparently frivolous things seriously... More than this, though, Bari communicates the joy and powerful sense of interconnected humanity clothes can bring.” -- Lucy Moore * Literary Review *

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Book SynopsisA guide to the art, history, and politics of visible mending at once a practical instruction guide for techniques, a statement on the beauty of repairing and reimagining clothes, and a manifesto against fast fashion.

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Book SynopsisFashion Ethics provides a comprehensive overview of the ethical issues in the fashion industry, from collection design concept to upcycling and closed loop production. This book answers an urgent need for a comprehensive understanding of the fundamental ethics of the fashion industry.Sue Thomas goes beyond the usual contentious issues of environmental impact and human rights, taking the reader deeper into the endemic issues including sizeism, ageism, animal rights, and the lack of diversity in models and in the media. The book lays out the significant ethical issues within the fashion supply chain by mapping the lifecycle of a garment and exploring key topics such as deep ecology, cultural copyright speciesism, the role of the customer, and technology in future ethics. It also features current international industry information and industry-relevant case studies from brands, media and mobile technology, and NGOs including Oxfam (UK), Redress (Hong Kong), Nimany (US), Labor Link (US), People Tree (UK), and Peppermint (Australia).Fashion Ethics provides much-needed information for fashion students, industry professionals, and customers.Trade Review‘Thomas breaks new ground by examining the fashion value chain through a lens of ethics. Fashion Ethics provides a comprehensive view of the fashion landscape, from industry stakeholders to the end user, and points to both a radically altered global fashion system and new research areas for fashion studies for years to come.’Timo Rissanen, Assistant Professor of Fashion Design and Sustainability, Parsons School of Design, New York 'Sue Thomas expertly leads the reader through an insightful and challenging critique of the ‘fast fashion’ system. The coverage of serious impact of over-production and consumption on humanity and the environment are unravelled in her highly accessible book on fashion ethics. She is an inspirational advocate for change!' Liliana Pomazan, Senior Lecturer, School of Fashion and Textiles, RMIT University, Australia'In Fashion Ethics, Sue Thomas uses her commanding knowledge of the fashion industry and engaging writing style to guide readers through a breadth of uncomfortable ethical issues that demand reflection and consideration. Thomas advocates for shared responsibility and collaboration to "dream big" about how to integrate compassion for all stakeholders into the industry – and then for making the choices necessary to secure the future of the fashion industry and the planet. A must-read for every first year fashion student and for any industry professional whose work intersects with the design, production, marketing, wear, or disposal and reincarnation stages of the product lifecycle.' Marsha Dickson, Department of Fashion and Apparel Studies, University of Delaware, USA 'In this informative and topical text, Thomas introduces the reader to a wide range of subjects and debates concerned with ethics, and the production and consumption of fashion products. In the chapters we explore themes that have been (and perhaps still remain) largely "invisible" to the fashion system – from ageism, sizeism, and racism, to concerns for environmental impacts and intellectual copyright. Throughout the text, Thomas challenges designers, retailers and consumers to consider what it is to be ethical, and how this should/could be demonstrated in the way that we make, sell and use clothes. Fashion Ethics has to be a must read for all burgeoning fashion students and consumers.'Alison Gwilt, Reader in Fashion Design and Sustainability, Sheffield Hallam University, UK"I would recommend this book to anyone who works within or is interested or engaged in the fashion industry. In fact, I reckon it should be required reading for all fashion students, as they (we) are the future of the industry and we need the moral backbone to back up our decisions and their impacts."Urbanity, November 2017Table of Contents1. Introduction 2. Design, ethics, and the designer 3. Production 4. Marketing 5. Wear 6. Disposal and reincarnation 7. Future ethics 8. Conclusion

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Book SynopsisHow has the fashion industry responded to turn-of-the-millennium non-binary identities? Do they have a supportive or exploitative relationship with queer, trans and ageing subjects? Fashion, Identity, Image unpacks these questions and many more in relation to clothing and representation, identity and body politics in British, European and American culture between 1990 and 2020. Jobling, Nesbitt and Wong explore issues of intersectionality and inclusivity through groundbreaking shows, including Maria Grazia Chiuri's We Should All Be Feminists' catwalk show for Dior (Spring-Summer 2017), Alexander McQueen's The Widows of Culloden' collection (Fall-Winter 2006), and the role of transgender models such as Oslo Grace since 2015. Looking to the future of our relationship with fashion, there''s also an investigation of the android as a redemptive figure in Alessandro Michele's cross-cultural cyborg collection for Gucci (Autumn-Winter 2018/2019) and the impact of the ageing pTrade ReviewGives currency to the importance of fashion as an arbiter of change at a time when the multiplicity and fragmentation of gender is affecting the ways we perceive and experience our bodies and our identities. Its contents will incite ideas and heated debates and I am sure it will be a book whose pages will be well-thumbed and whose subject matter will make for long and passionate arguments and conversations. -- Vicki Karaminas, Massey University, New ZealandUtilizing recent and historic examples, the authors offer a robust account of the role of the fashion industry in creating age, race, gender, and posthuman identities, both actual and fantastic. I finished this book with inspiration for my teaching and research. -- Andrew Reilly, University of Hawai`i, Manoa,Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Acknowledgements Introduction 1. Authoring Fashion, Intersecting Sex and Gender Introduction Maria Grazia Chiuri’s ‘We Should All Be Feminists’ T-Shirt for Christian Dior: Branding, identity and authorship Between the womb and the gay parade: Alexander McQueen’s ‘The Widows of Culloden’ as poetic text Subverting the symbolic order: McQueen’s abject woman Conclusion: Squaring up to the phallic mother Notes 2. Written on the body: Fashion, clothing and age Introduction ‘Active ageing’, youthfulness and fashion ‘Fashion For All Ages’ and the new old model army Race and reversing convention Conclusion: From idiotic methods to the realities of time and place Notes 3. (Un)Gendering the runway Introduction Forerunners of transgender and non-binary identities in fashion The advent of transgendered models The abject trans-model Between abjection and acceptance ‘Come into the (trans)garden’: The heterotopia of fashion The authentic self Other models: Intersectionality and wider diversity in the fashion industry Tokenism versus activism Conclusion: Between tokenism and authenticity Notes 4. Loving the alien: Fashion and cyborg identities Introduction Andrea Giacobbe and ‘Simplex Concordia’ Alessandro Michele and the Gucci Cyborg Compromising race and diversity A ‘genuine cyborg manifesto’? Conclusion: Towards emancipatory possibilities Notes Epilogue

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Book SynopsisA beautifully illustrated pocket-sized book to take with you on your forays into nature. This will be a limited edition, with the second volume of Fletcher's Almanac coming next year.

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Book SynopsisAuthor Angelos Bollas sheds light on the complex interplay between gender norms, media influence, and the construction of modern masculinity through his nuanced analysis of Timothée Chalamet and Paul Mescal, whose unique approach to self-presentation challenges traditional notions of masculinity.

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Book Synopsis**THE SUNDAY TIMES BESTSELLER**A riveting, inspiring memoir from the star of Netflix's My Unorthodox Life'Haart is a hustler, a born entrepreneur, charismatic enough to attract investment like a pop ingenue attracts talent scouts and a fighter.' POLLY VERNON, THE TIMES'An irresistible read . . . Written with great intensity and rare candor, Brazen is a story of longing for more and manifesting that vision.' TOMMY HILFIGEREver since she was a child, every aspect of Julia Haart's life - what she wore, what she ate, what she thought - was controlled by the rules of ultra-Orthodox Judaism. At nineteen, after a lifetime spent caring for her seven younger siblings, she was married off to a man she barely knew. But when she realises her daughters will be forced into the same unending servitude, Haart secretly starts preparing for a life beyond the confines of their Orthodox suburb - where she can pursue her 'sinful' dreams designing clothes. Propulsive and unforgettable, Brazen follows Haart's extraordinary journey from an extreme religious sect to how she found freedom and success in the world of fashion. 'Julia lives her life with an exhilarating fervour that's contagious to anyone lucky enough to be around her. Never willing to accept the status quo, time and again she has fought for her place in the world and demanded her seat at the table. I'm incredibly inspired by her stories, which are always told with honesty and heart. This book is a must read!'COCO ROCHA'Julia Haart is a hustler. Her story is an inspiring, believe-in-your-dreams, never-give-up, anything-in-life-is-possible story of hope. Run, don't walk, to get this book!'LISA RINNA

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Book SynopsisDiscover the extraordinary stories of the Jewish people who designed, made and sold fashion in twentieth-century London, revealing their vital role in making it an iconic fashion city. While Jewish people have long been associated with making clothes, the full extent of the contributions they made to London’s growing reputation as a global fashion capital and the democratisation of fashion through the development of ready-to-wear clothes in the twentieth century have been widely forgotten. Spanning all sectors of the fashion industry – from homeworking to haute couture – the book draws stories from generations of Jewish Londoners and is richly illustrated with images from across the city and the Museum of London’s collections. Fashion City takes you on a journey across London, from the busy clothing factories of the East End to the swinging boutiques of Carnaby Street and the manicured squares of Mayfair. Along the way it introduces you to the intriguing stories of the key figures behind London fashion, such as Frederick Starke, a boy from the East End whose ability to tell a creative story changed the way the world saw British ready-to-wear fashion; Otto Lucas, a gay Jewish German hat maker who became the most financially successful milliner in the world; Mr Fish, the rule-defying tailor who dressed Mick Jagger and Muhammed Ali; and Netty Spiegel, who escaped the Nazis on the Kindertransport and became a London wedding dress designer of choice under her ‘Neymar’ label. Bringing together a wealth of new research and presenting a novel perspective of London fashion, this book gives a voice to the city’s overlooked and often forgotten Jewish fashion makers.Trade ReviewDrawing on new research, this makes for a fascinating read. * This England *Table of ContentsForeword by David Sassoon - Prelude: Neymar | Netty Spiegel 1. Introductions - Key Figures: J. H. Fisher | Malka and Juda Fiszer 2. Making Clothes in the East End - Key Figures: Koupy | Charles Kuperstein 3. High-street Chains and the Wholesale Revolution - Key Figures: Otto Lucas Ltd | The Milliner Millionaire 4. Couture and Bespoke Dressmaking - Key Figures: Mr Fish | Michael Fish and Friends 5. Menswear Boutiques and Carnaby Street - Key Figures: Moss Bros | Generations of Moss Index Picture credits

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