Textile arts and artworks Books

Book SynopsisTable of ContentsPreface xv 1 Damage Caused by Physical and Chemical Agents and Their Prevention 1 Suza Ahmed, Mohammad Mohsin Ul Hoque and Abubakar Siddik 1.1 Introduction 1 1.2 Characteristics of Typical Museum Textiles 2 1.3 Agents Causing Damage to Textile Materials 2 1.4 Deterioration of Textiles by Mechanical Stresses 3 1.4.1 Dimensional Changes 4 1.4.2 Change in Modulus 4 1.5 Deterioration of Textiles by Light and Radiation 5 1.5.1 Deterioration of Textiles by Photochemical Tendering 5 1.5.2 Fading of Dyes 6 1.5.3 Accelerated Photochemical Tendering 6 1.5.4 Light Ageing 7 1.6 Deterioration of Textiles by Humidity and Temperature 7 1.6.1 Temperature 7 1.6.2 Relative Humidity 7 1.6.3 Fluctuating Humidity and Temperature 8 1.7 Deterioration by Acid, Alkali, and Water 8 1.8 Deterioration of Textiles by Gaseous and Solid Contaminants 8 1.8.1 Gaseous Contaminants 9 1.8.2 Particulate Contaminants 9 1.9 Deterioration of Textiles to Biological Agents 9 1.9.1 Insects and Pests 9 1.9.2 Mold 11 1.9.3 Source of Biological Agents 11 1.10 Cases of Damages in Museum Textiles 11 1.11 Other Factors Influencing the Damages to Textiles 13 1.11.1 Alienation 13 1.11.2 Fire 13 1.11.3 Theft or Vandalism 13 1.12 Avoiding Damages 13 1.12.1 Temperature and Humidity 13 1.12.2 Avoiding Damages Caused by Light and UV Radiation 14 1.12.2.1 Measuring Light and UV Levels 14 1.12.3 Avoiding Damages Caused by Pest 15 1.12.4 Avoiding Damages Caused by Pollutants 15 1.12.5 Avoiding Environmental Damages 15 1.13 Conservation of Museum Textiles 16 1.13.1 Moth Management 16 1.13.2 Integrated Pest Management 16 1.13.2.1 Monitoring the Collections 17 1.13.2.2 Insect Trapping 18 1.13.2.3 Traditional Method 18 1.13.2.4 Hygienic Control of Pests 18 1.13.2.5 Pest-Proofing 18 1.13.3 Laser Cleaning of Tarnished Silver and Copper Threads in Museum Textiles 19 1.14 Conclusion 19 References 20 2 Biological Damage to Textiles and Prevention Methods 23 Kurmo Konsa, Theodora Kormpaki and Janika Turu 2.1 Introduction 23 2.2 Biodeterioration of Textiles Caused by Microorganisms (Bacteria, Fungi) 25 2.2.1 Most Common Species of Microorganisms in Textile Collections 25 2.2.2 Deterioration Caused by Microorganisms 26 2.2.3 Methods of Examination and Identification of Microorganisms 27 2.3 Biodeterioration of Textiles Caused by Insects 28 2.3.1 Most Common Species of Insects in Textile Collections 28 2.3.2 Deterioration Caused by Insects 29 2.3.3 Monitoring and Identification of Insects in Textile Collections 30 2.4 The Control of Biodeterioration of Textiles 30 2.4.1 Prevention Methods 31 2.4.1.1 Construction Aspects 31 2.4.1.2 Storage Conditions 31 2.4.1.3 Storage 32 2.4.1.4 Room Monitoring 32 2.4.2 Remediation Methods 33 2.4.2.1 Low Temperatures (Freezing) 34 2.4.2.2 High Temperatures (Heating) 34 2.4.2.3 Gamma Radiation 34 2.4.2.4 Modified Atmospheres 35 2.4.2.5 Mechanical Removal 35 2.4.3 Chemical Control Methods 35 2.4.4 New Methods for the Control of Biodeterioration of Textiles 36 2.5 Biological and Chemical Risk Factors in the Preservation and Conservation of Textiles 37 2.6 Conclusion 37 References 38 3 Microscopy of Historical Textiles 45 Hana Lukesova 3.1 Introduction 45 3.2 Optical Microscopy 46 3.2.1 Stereomicroscopes 46 3.2.1.1 Textile Techniques 47 3.2.1.2 Finishing 47 3.2.1.3 Repairs and Changes 48 3.2.1.4 Reflected Light Microscopy 48 3.2.2 Transmitted White Light and Polarized Light Microscopy 48 3.2.2.1 Transmitted White Light Microscopy 48 3.2.2.2 Polarized Light Microscopy 49 3.2.2.3 Fiber Identification 50 3.2.2.4 Finishing 51 3.2.2.5 Microbiological Attack 52 3.2.3 Digital Microscopy 52 3.3 Electron Microscopy 53 3.3.1 Scanning Electron Microscopy 53 3.3.1.1 Sample Preparation 53 3.3.1.2 Fiber Identification of Animal Hairs 53 3.3.1.3 Finishing 54 3.3.1.4 Dyeing 54 3.3.1.5 Quality 54 3.3.1.6 Degradation 55 3.3.2 Transmission Electron Microscopy 55 3.3.2.1 Sample Preparation 56 3.4 Conclusion 56 References 57 4 Computational Structural Analysis 61 Rana Al Ali, Mohamed Dallel, Boumediene Nedjar and Elhem Ghorbel 4.1 Introduction 61 4.2 Mechanical Modeling of Textile 62 4.2.1 Microscopic Modeling of Textiles 63 4.2.2 Mesoscoping Modeling of Textiles 63 4.2.3 Macroscopic Modeling of Textiles 65 4.3 Historical Textiles’ Modeling 67 4.3.1 Creep in Structural Analysis 67 4.3.2 Finite Element Method 68 4.3.3 The Rheological Model 68 4.3.3.1 Kinematic Associated with Elastic Behavior 70 4.3.3.2 Constitutive Equations Associated to the Elastoplastic Branch [I] 71 4.3.3.3 Constitutive Equations Associated to the Viscoelastic Branch [II] 76 4.4 Application to Tapestries: Case Studies 76 4.4.1 Application 1: The Importance of Considering the Orthotropy 77 4.4.2 Application 2: Effect of Hanging System 78 4.4.3 Application 3: Presence of Tears and Slits 79 4.5 Conclusion 79 Acknowledgement 80 References 80 5 Characterization of Ancient Dyes and Prints 85 Hannah Dewey, Meghan Lord and Januka Budhathoki-Uprety 5.1 Introduction 85 5.2 Characterization Methods 87 5.2.1 Thin Layer Chromatography 87 5.2.2 High-Performance Liquid Chromatography 89 5.2.2.1 Dyestuff Analysis 90 5.2.2.2 Sample Preparation and Extraction Methods 90 5.2.2.3 Detectors 92 5.2.2.4 Limitations 93 5.2.3 Raman Spectroscopy 94 5.2.4 Infrared Spectroscopy 96 5.2.5 Fluorescence Spectroscopy 97 5.2.6 Fiber Optic Reflectance Spectroscopy 99 5.2.7 Mass Spectrometry 100 5.3 Printing Techniques 101 5.4 Conclusion 102 References 103 6 State-of-the-Art Characterization Methods for Historic Textiles 107 Reza Assefi Pour, Mazeyar Parvinzadeh Gashti and Jinxin He 6.1 Introduction 108 6.2 Dating of Textiles 108 6.2.1 Radiocarbon Dating 109 6.2.1.1 Advantages and Limitations of Radiocarbon Dating 109 6.2.1.2 Radiocarbon Dating Measurements 110 6.2.1.3 The AMS Method of Radiocarbon Dating 110 6.2.2 Micromechanical Method for Textiles Dating 111 6.3 Molecular Analysis 112 6.3.1 DNA Analysis 112 6.3.2 Amino Acid Composition 114 6.4 Proteomics 115 6.4.1 Principle and Evaluation Process of Historic Textiles 115 6.4.2 Why Proteomics Is Preferred 117 6.5 Isotopic Tracing 118 6.5.1 The Strontium Isotope Tracing System 118 6.5.2 Benefits of Sr Isotope Tracing 119 6.5.3 Limitations of Sr Isotope Tracing 119 6.6 Thermal Analysis 120 6.7 Optical Measurement Tests 121 6.8 Analytical Methods for Dye Analysis 122 6.8.1 Mass Spectrometry 123 6.8.2 Chromatography 123 6.8.3 Electrophoresis 124 6.8.4 Microextraction 124 6.9 Conclusion 126 References 126 7 Nondestructive Testing of Historic Textiles 131 Anna Klisińska-Kopacz 7.1 Introduction 131 7.2 Sampling 132 7.3 Analytical Investigation Techniques Using X-Rays 133 7.3.1 X-Ray Radiography 133 7.3.2 X-Ray Fluorescence 135 7.3.3 Scanning Electron Microscopy with X-Ray Microanalysis 137 7.3.4 X-Ray Diffraction 139 7.4 Vibrational Spectroscopy 140 7.4.1 Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy 141 7.4.2 Raman Spectroscopy and Surface-Enhanced Raman Spectroscopy 143 7.5 Case Studies 144 7.5.1 17th Century Painted Silk Banner 144 7.5.2 16th Century Carpet 146 References 148 8 NDT of Historic Textiles—Brief on Theory and Applications 151 Anuradha Sankaran, Namitha Nandanan Nedumpillil and Seiko Jose 8.1 Introduction 151 8.2 X-Ray Fluorescence Spectroscopy 152 8.3 Atomic Force Microscopy 154 8.4 Raman Spectroscopy 154 8.5 Computed Tomography 156 8.6 X-Ray Photoelectron Spectroscopy 157 8.7 Optical Microscope 157 8.8 Scanning Electron Microscope and Energy Dispersive X-Ray Spectrometer 159 8.9 Carbon Dating 161 8.10 X-Ray Diffraction 162 8.11 Ultraviolet-Visible Spectroscopy 163 8.12 Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy 164 8.13 Conclusion 165 References 165 9 Non-Invasive Analytical Techniques for the Study of Dyes and Pigments in Historical Textiles 171 Lavinia de Ferri and Fabrizio Andriulo 9.1 Introduction 171 9.2 Photographic Methods 172 9.2.1 Infrared Reflectography (IRR) 173 9.2.2 Visible-Induced Visible Luminescence/Fluorescence 173 9.2.3 UV-Fluorescence (or UV-Luminescence) (UVF-UVL) and UV Reflectance (UVR) 174 9.2.4 False-Color Imaging 174 9.2.5 Multispectral/Hyperspectral Imaging 175 9.3 Colorimetry 176 9.4 Reflectance Spectroscopy 177 9.5 Fluorimetry 185 9.6 Diffuse Reflectance Infrared Fourier-Transform (DRIFT) Spectroscopy 186 9.7 Matrix-Transfer Surface-Enhanced Raman Scattering (SERS) 187 References 187 10 Micro-Invasive Analytical Techniques for the Study of Dyes and Pigments in Historical Textiles 191 Lavinia de Ferri and Fabrizio Andriulo 10.1 Introduction 191 10.2 Spectroscopic Methods 192 10.2.1 Elemental Techniques: Energy Dispersive System/Energy Dispersive X-Ray (EDS/EDX) and Laser Induced Breakdown Spectroscopy (LIBS) 192 10.2.2 Ultraviolet-Visible (UV-VIS) 193 10.2.3 Surface-Enhanced Raman Scattering (SERS) and Fourier Transform (FT)-Raman 195 10.2.4 Fourier Transform-Infrared (FT-IR) Spectroscopy 201 10.3 Chromatographic Methods 202 10.3.1 Paper and Thin Layer Chromatography (PC and TLC) 202 10.3.2 High-Pressure/-Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC) 204 10.3.3 Ultra High-Performance Liquid Chromatography (UHPLC) 205 10.3.4 Gas Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry 206 10.4 Other Techniques 208 References 209 11 Destructive Analytical Techniques for the Analysis of Historic Textiles 215 Namitha Nandanan Nedumpillil, Anuradha Sankaran, Seiko Jose, Sneha George and Sabu Thomas 11.1 Introduction 215 11.2 NMR Spectroscopy 216 11.3 Mass Spectrometry 217 11.4 Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry (SIMS) 217 11.5 Inductively Coupled Plasma Mass Spectroscopy 218 11.6 Laser Ablation Inductively Coupled Plasma Time of Flight Mass Spectrometry (LA-ICP-TOF-MS) 218 11.7 Matrix-Assisted Laser Desorption Ionization-Time of Flight (MALDI-TOF) 219 11.8 Transmission Electron Microscope 221 11.9 Thermo Gravimetric Analysis 221 11.10 DNA Analysis 222 11.11 Amino Acid Composition 223 11.12 Peptide Mass Fingerprinting 223 11.13 Chromatographic Techniques 225 11.14 High-Performance Liquid Chromatography 226 11.15 Thin Layer Chromatography 228 11.16 Gas Chromatography 229 11.17 Inductively Coupled Plasma-Optical Emission Spectroscopy 229 11.18 Conclusions 230 References 231 12 Assessment of Degradation, Repair, and Stabilization of Antique Textiles with a Focus on Tapestries 235 Rosa Costantini 12.1 Introduction 235 12.2 Mechanical Damage Mechanisms in Historic Tapestries 236 12.3 Conserving Tapestries 237 12.3.1 Current Methods for Structural Support and Image Reintegration 238 12.3.2 Current Display Methods 239 12.4 Evaluating the Mechanical Behavior of Tapestries: Invasive Techniques 239 12.4.1 Evaluating the Efficacy of Conservation Strategies Using Tensile Testing 240 12.5 Evaluating the Mechanical Behavior of Tapestries: Noninvasive Techniques 241 12.5.1 Evaluating the Efficacy of Conservation Strategies Using DIC 242 12.6 Conclusions 243 References 243 13 Antique Tapestries and Carpets: A Multidisciplinary Experimental Research Method for Their Diagnosis and Dating 247 Gianpaolo Rosati, Carol Monticelli, Matteo Tommasini, Chiara Zanchi and Alessandra Zanelli 13.1 Introduction 248 13.2 Antiques Textile Surfaces, Means of Cultural Testimony and Way of Improving the Comfort in Historical Buildings 248 13.3 Recent Research and Case Studies on Ancient Carpets 252 13.4 Recent Research and Case Studies on Ancient Tapestries 255 13.5 IR Spectroscopy to the Molecular Wool Characterization: Implications for Dating Purposes 258 13.6 Conclusion 262 Acknowledgment 263 References 263 14 Scientific Study of Fibers and Natural Dyes Used in 19th Century Prayer Carpet From Jiwajirao Scindia Museum Gwalior, Using LC-MS and UV-VIS 267 Md. Ali Nasir, Satish. C. Pandey and M.V. Nair 14.1 Introduction 267 14.2 Materials and Methods 269 14.2.1 Preparation of Samples 269 14.2.2 Instrumentation 269 14.3 Extraction of Dyes 270 14.3.1 Liquid Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry (LC-MS) 270 14.3.2 UV Spectroscopic Measurements 270 14.4 Result and Discussion 270 14.4.1 Dyes Identified in 19th Century Carpet from Jiwaji Scindia Museum, Gwalior Sample 271 14.4.2 Red Dye 271 14.4.3 UV-Visible Spectroscopy 271 14.4.4 Green Dye 273 14.4.5 UV-Visible Spectroscopy 275 14.4.6 Yellow Dye 275 14.4.7 Black Dye 276 14.4.8 UV-Visible Spectroscopy 278 14.5 Future Scope and Studies 280 14.6 Conclusion 280 Acknowledgment 280 References 281 15 Analysis and Visualization of Historical Textiles for the Needs of Museum Conservation and Exhibition 283 Maria Cybulska 15.1 Introduction 283 15.2 Deterioration of Textiles 284 15.3 Methods of Analysis of Historical Textiles 285 15.4 Analysis of Fibers 285 15.5 Analysis of Threads 290 15.6 Analysis of Woven and Other Textile Objects 292 15.7 Identification of Dyes and Color Analysis 293 15.8 Visualization and Virtual Reconstruction of Textiles 294 15.9 Conclusion 299 References 300 16 Conservation of a Coptic Tapestry Fragment from Red Monastery Excavation 303 Neven Fahim 16.1 Introduction 303 16.2 Documentation and Condition 304 16.2.1 Description of Archaeological Object 304 16.2.2 The Analytical Method and Technical Study 305 16.2.3 Dating of the Object 305 16.2.4 State of Deterioration 305 16.3 Testing and Analysis 307 16.3.1 Morphological Study 307 16.3.2 Scanning Electron Microscope 307 16.3.3 Fourier Transform Infrared Analysis 307 16.3.4 Analysis of Color Values 308 16.4 Results and Discussion 308 16.4.1 Stereo Microscope 308 16.4.2 Scanning Electron Microscope 308 16.4.3 FTIR Analysis 310 16.4.4 Colorimetric Measurements 312 16.5 Treatment Methodology 312 16.5.1 Humidification Process 313 16.5.2 Testing the Acidity 313 16.5.3 Cleaning Process 313 16.5.3.1 Chemical Cleaning 313 16.5.3.2 Wet Cleaning 313 16.5.4 Preparation of Foam and Textile Support 314 16.5.5 Permanent Fixation 314 16.6 Conclusion 315 Acknowledgment 315 References 316 17 Synthetic Coatings in Fashion Collections: Identification and Preservation Issues 319 S. França de Sá, K. Verkens, A. Rizzo, G. Petersen, S. Scaturro, I. Correia and M. Carita 17.1 Introduction 320 17.2 Conservation Challenges in Fashion Museum Collections Holding Polyurethane and Plasticised Poly(Vinyl Chloride) Coatings 321 17.2.1 The Entrance of TPU and p-PVC in Fashion 321 17.2.2 Degradation of TPU and p-PVC 322 17.2.3 Issues and Recommendations for the Preservation of TPU and p-PVC Coatings in Museum Collections 322 17.2.4 Case Studies From MUDE, MET and MoMu Collections 324 17.2.4.1 TPU Coatings 327 17.2.4.2 p-PVC Coatings 332 17.2.4.3 Mixed Compositions 335 17.2.4.4 Main Considerations 336 17.3 Experimental 337 17.3.1 Met Museum 337 17.4 Damage Atlas 337 17.5 Conclusions 341 17.6 Future Research 341 References 342 18 Nanotechnology-Based Interventions in Museum Textiles 345 Ankita Shroff, Anjali Karolia and Patricia I. Dolez 18.1 Introduction 346 18.2 Applications of Nanotechnology in Museum Textiles 348 18.2.1 Diagnosis of Museum Textiles Using Nano-Enabled Technologies 349 18.2.2 Cleaning of Museum Textiles Using Nano-Enabled Technologies 350 18.2.3 Consolidation and Protection of Museum Textiles Using Nano-Enabled Technologies 352 18.3 Benefits and Opportunities for Future Developments in Preservative and Conservative Practices 354 18.4 Conclusion 356 Acknowledgments 357 References 357 19 Digital Technologies and Virtual Museums—Novel Approach 361 Kanika Sachdeva and Harshita Chaudhary 19.1 Introduction 361 19.2 History of Digital Technologies in Museums 362 19.3 Why Do We Need Digital Technologies in Museums? 363 19.4 Digital Technologies—Tools and Techniques 364 19.4.1 Multimedia Materials 364 19.4.2 The World Wide Web 364 19.4.3 Computer-Mediated Conferencing 364 19.4.4 Presentation Technologies 365 19.4.5 Simulations and Models 365 19.4.6 Microworlds and Games 365 19.4.7 Streaming Digital Audio and Video 365 19.4.8 Visualization-Based Utilities 365 19.5 Applications of Digital Technologies in the Museum 368 19.5.1 Offline Data Banks Like CD-ROMS 368 19.5.2 Websites 369 19.5.3 Online Databases (National Digital Repository for Museums of India) 370 19.5.4 Virtual Museums 370 19.5.5 Interactive Exhibition Resources/Fusion Exhibitions (Sardar Patel Exhibition) 372 19.5.6 Google Arts and Culture App 372 19.5.7 Roboguides 373 19.5.8 BYOD in Museums 373 19.6 Pros and Cons of Digital Technologies as Compared to Traditional Exhibitions 374 19.6.1 Pros 374 19.6.2 Cons 376 19.7 Conclusion 376 References 377 Index 379

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Book SynopsisThis is a concise yet detailed guide to the fundamental terms, materials, and techniques used to create textiles. Textiles have been made and used by every culture throughout history. However diverse - whether an Egyptian mummy wrapping, a Turkish carpet, Italian velvet, American quilt, or a Scottish kilt - all textiles have basic elements in common. They are made of fibres, constructed into forms, and patterned and coloured in ways that follow certain principles. "Looking at Textiles" serves as a guide to the fundamentals of the materials and techniques used to create textiles. The selected technical terms explain what textiles are, how they are made, and what they are made of, and include definitions of terms relating to fibres, dyes, looms and weaving, and patterning processes. The many illustrations, including macro- and micro-scale photographs of a range of ancient and historic museum textiles, demonstrate the features described in the text.

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Book SynopsisThe whimsical imagery of four tapestries in the permanent collection of the J. Paul Getty Museum and currently on display at the Getty Center is perplexing. Created in France at the Beauvais manufactory between 1690 and 1730, these charming hangings, unlike most French tapestries of the period, appear to be purely decorative, with no narrative thread, no theological moral, and no allegorical symbolism. They belong to a series called the Grotesques, inspired by ancient frescos discovered during the excavation of the Roman emperor Nero's Domus Aurea, or Golden House, but the origins of their mysterious subject matter have long eluded art historians. Based on seven years of research, Conundrum: Puzzles in the Grotesques Tapestry Series reveals for the first time that the artist responsible for these designs, Jean-Baptiste Monnoyer (1636-1699), actually incorporated dozens of motifs and vignettes from a surprising range of sources: antique statuary, Renaissance prints, Mannerist tapestry, and Baroque art, as well as contemporary seventeenth century urban festivals, court spectacle, and theater. Conundrum illustrates the most interesting of these sources alongside full-color details and overall views of the four tapestries. The book's informative and engaging essay identifies and decodes the tapestries' intriguing visual puzzles, enlightening our understanding and appreciation of the series' unexpectedly rich intellectual underpinnings.

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Book SynopsisPrinted cotton sacks are currently fashionable aspects for material culture research, particularly in the costume and quilt history communities. In the second quarter of the twentieth century, these mass-produced sacks were relied upon by rural America as a valuable source of free fabric for clothing, quilts, and home décor.This book is the catalog for the Museum of Texas Tech University's "Cotton and Thrift" exhibition, which showcases the Pat L. Nickols Cotton Sack Research Collection. The Nickols Collection includes white sacks, printed partial and whole cotton sacks, swatches of printed sacks, instructional booklets, garments, quilts, quilt tops and decorated white sacks. Combined with earlier and subsequent individual donations, the almost 6000 feed sack pieces held by the Museum of TTU make this the largest collection of feed sack materials to be assembled by an American university, and likely the largest such collection in public hands.

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Book SynopsisInnovative textile-based artwork exploded across the Canadian Prairies in the second half of the twentieth century. Melding craft traditions with modern and modernist movements in art and theory a diverse body of creators opened a beautiful new chapter in textile art.Prairie Interlace brings together some of the most important scholars of craft in Canada to examine the work of forty-eight artists working with textiles from the 1960s to the 2000s. Recapturing and recording lost histories, this book explores both artists working with textiles and centres of textile study and production, paying special attention to the contexts in which artworks were produced. Indigenous scholars, experts in textile techniques, and experts on the Canadian Prairies provide fascinating insight into an artistic movement which, until now, has been nearly undocumented.Featuring beautiful full-colour images of textile works, many of which have never before been photographed for print, Prairie Interlace provides an opportunity to discover a fascinating movement which has not received the attention it deserves and invites further investigation of this rich period in Canadian art history.Developing from the travelling exhibition of the same name, Prairie Interlace is a collaboration between Nickle Galleries, University of Calgary in Calgary, AB and the MacKenzie Art Gallery, Regina, SK.

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Book SynopsisInnovative textile-based artwork exploded across the Canadian Prairies in the second half of the twentieth century. Melding craft traditions with modern and modernist movements in art and theory a diverse body of creators opened a beautiful new chapter in textile art.Prairie Interlace brings together some of the most important scholars of craft in Canada to examine the work of forty-eight artists working with textiles from the 1960s to the 2000s. Recapturing and recording lost histories, this book explores both artists working with textiles and centres of textile study and production, paying special attention to the contexts in which artworks were produced. Indigenous scholars, experts in textile techniques, and experts on the Canadian Prairies provide fascinating insight into an artistic movement which, until now, has been nearly undocumented.Featuring beautiful full-colour images of textile works, many of which have never before been photographed for print, Prairie Interlace provides an opportunity to discover a fascinating movement which has not received the attention it deserves and invites further investigation of this rich period in Canadian art history.Developing from the travelling exhibition of the same name, Prairie Interlace is a collaboration between Nickle Galleries, University of Calgary in Calgary, AB and the MacKenzie Art Gallery, Regina, SK.

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Book SynopsisA wide-ranging and varied collection of essays which examine surviving garments, methods of production and clothes in society. The second decade of this acclaimed and popular series begins with a volume that will be essential reading for historians and re-enactors alike. Two papers consider cloth manufacture in the early medieval period: Ingvild Øye examines the graves of prosperous Viking Age women from Western Norway which contained both textile-making tools and the remains of cloth, considering the relationship between the two. Karen Nicholson compliments this with practical experiments in spinning. This is followed by Tina Anderlini's close examination of the details of cut and construction of a thirteenth-century chemise attributed to King Louis IX of France (St Louis), out of its shrine for the firsttime since 1970. Three papers consider fashionable clothing and morality: Sarah-Grace Heller discusses sumptuary legislation from Angevin Sicily in the 1290s which sought to restrict men's dress at a time when preparation for war was more important than showy clothes; Cordelia Warr examines the dire consequences of a woman dressing extravagantly as portrayed in a fourteenth-century Italian fresco; and Emily Rozier discusses the extremes of dress attributed by moral and satirical writers to the men known as "galaunts". Two textual studies then show the importance of textiles in daily life. Susan Powell reveals the austere but magnificent purchases made on behalf of Lady Margaret Beaufort, mother of King Henry VII, in the last ten years of her life (1498-1509); Anna Riehl Bertolet discusses in detail the passage in Shakespeare's A Midsummer Night's Dream where Helena passionately recalls sewinga sampler with Hermia when they were young and still bosom friends.Table of ContentsProduction, Quality, and Social Status in Viking Age Dress: Three Cases from Western Norway - Ingvild Oye The Effect of Spindle Whorl Design on Wool Thread Production: A Practical Experiment Based on Examples from Eighth-Century Denmark - Karen Nicholson The Shirt Attributed to St. Louis - Tina Anderlini Angevin-Sicilian Sumptuary Statutes of the 1290s: Fashion in the Thirteenth-Century Mediterranean - Sarah-Grace Heller The Devil on My Tail: Clothing and Visual Culture in the Camposanto Last Judgment - Cordelia Warr "Transposing þe shapus þat God first mad them of": Manipulated Masculinity in the Galaunt Tradition - Emily J. Rozier Textiles and Dress in the Household Papers of Lady Margaret Beaufort (1443-1509), Mother of King Henry VII - Susan Powell "Like two artificial gods": Needlework and Female Bonding in A Midsummer Night's Dream - Anna Riehl Bertolet

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Book SynopsisThe best new research on medieval clothing and textiles, drawing from a range of disciplines. The studies collected here range through art, artifacts, documentary text, and poetry, addressing both real and symbolic functions of dress and textiles. John Block Friedman breaks new ground with his article on clothing for pets and other animals, while Grzegorz Pac compares depictions of sacred and royal female dress and evaluates attempts to link them together. Jonathan C. Cooper describes the clothing of scholars in Scotland's three pre-Reformation universities and the effects of the Reformation upon it. Camilla Luise Dahl examines references to women's garments in probates and what they reveal about early modern fashions. Megan Cavell focuses on the treatment of textiles associated with the Holy of Holies in Old English biblical poetry. Frances Pritchard examines the iconography, heraldry, and inscriptions on a worn and repaired set of embroidered fifteenth-century orphreys to determine their origin.Finally, Thomas M. Izbicki summarizes evidence for the choice of white linen for the altar and the responsibilities of priests for keeping it clean and in good repair.Table of ContentsThe Attire of the Virgin Mary and Female Rulers in Iconographical Sources of the Ninth to Eleventh Centuries: Analogues, Interpretations, Misinterpretations - Grzegorz Pac Sails, Veils, and Tents: The Segl and Tabernacle of Old English Christ III and Exodus - Megan Cavell Linteamenta altaria: The Care of Altar Linens in the Medieval Church - Thomas M. Izbicki Coats, Collars, and Capes: Royal Fashions for Animals in the Early Modern Period - John Block Friedman A Set of Late-Fifteenth-Century Orphreys Relating to Ludovico Buonvisi, a Lucchese Merchant, and Embroidered in a London Workshop - Frances Pritchard Academical Dress in Late Medieval and Renaissance Scotland - Jonathan C. Cooper Dressing the Bourgeoisie: Clothing in Probate Records of Danish Townswomen, ca. 1545-1610 - Camilla Luise Dahl Recent Books of Interest

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Book SynopsisThe best new research on medieval clothing and textiles, drawing from a range of disciplines. Three of the essays in this collection focus on Italy, with contributions on footwear in Lucca based on documentary evidence of the fourteenth century; aristocratic furnishings as described in a royal letter of the fifteenth century, along with its first translation into English; and Boccaccio's treatment of disguise involving Christian/Islamic identity shifts in his Decameron. The Bayeux Tapestry is discussed as a narrative artwork that adopts various costumes for semiotic purposes. Another chapter considers surviving artefacts: a detailed study of a piece of quilted fabric armour, one of two such items surviving in Lübeck, Germany, reveals how it was made and suggests reasons for some of the unusual features. The volume also includes an investigation of the commercial vocabulary related to the medieval textile and fur industries: the terms used in Britain for measuring textile and fur are listed and discussed, especially the unique use of Anglo-French "launces" in a document of 1300. Contributors: Jane Bridgeman, Mark C. Chambers, Jessica Finley, Ana Grinberg, Christine Meek, Gale R. Owen-CrockerTrade ReviewThose working in the sphere of medieval clothing and textiles are very fortunate. Medieval Clothing and Textiles is a series which maintains high standards, showcases new research and is beautifully produced. * MEDIEVAL ARCHAEOLOGY *An excellent collection... it provides both new information and new perspectives on studying the medieval clothing culture through a comparative and interdisciplinary approach. * JOURNAL OF DRESS HISTORY *Table of ContentsPreface The Significance of Dress in the Bayeux Tapestry - Gale R. Owen-Crocker How Long Is a Launce? Units of Measure for Cloth in Late Medieval Britain - Mark C Chambers Robes, Turbans, and Beards: "Ethnic Passing" in Decameron 10.9 - Ana Grinberg Calciamentum: Footwear in Late Medieval Lucca - Christine E. Meek "Bene in ordene et bene ornata": Eleonora d'Aragona's Description of Her Suite of Rooms in a Roman Palace of the Late Fifteenth Century - Jane Bridgeman The Lübeck Wappenröcke: Distinctive Style in Fifteenth-Century German Fabric Armor - Jessica Finley Recent Books of Interest

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Book SynopsisAn examination of the fabrics, garments and cloth of the Iberian Middle Ages, bringing out in particular the international context. The Medieval Iberian Peninsula, encompassing various territories which make up present-day Spain and Portugal, was an ethnic and religious melting pot, comprising Christian, Jewish and Muslim communities, each contributing to a vibrant textile economy. They were also defined and distinguished by the material culture of clothing and dress, partly dictated by religious and cultural tradition, partly imposed by rulers anxious to avoid cross-ethnic relationships considered undesirable. Nevertheless, textiles, especially magnificent Islamic silks, crossed these barriers. The essays in this volume offer the first full analysis of Iberian textiles from the period, drawing on both material remains and historical documents, supported by evidence from contemporary artwork. Chapters cover surviving textiles, many of them magnificent silks; textile industries and trade; court dress and its use as a language of power and patronage; the vast market in utilitarian textiles for lower-status clothing and furnishings; and Muslim and Jewish dress. It also considers Arabic and Jewish texts as sources of information on textiles and the Arabic garment-names which crossed into Spanish. Particular emphasis is given to the the different ethnicities of Iberia and their influences on the use and trade of garments (both precious and common-place) and textiles.Table of ContentsIntroduction María Barrigón, Naḥum Ben-Yehuda, Gale R. Owen-Crocker and Joana Sequeira I The Historical Background/Context 1 From the Five Kingdoms to the Hispanic Monarchy: Political Structures, Ideology and Historical Development in the Medieval Iberian Peninsula (1157-1504) David Nogales Rincón II Techniques, Trade and Industry 2 Textile Techniques in the Iberian Peninsula (Thirteenth to Fourteenth Centuries) María Barrigón 3 Cloth Tade in the Iberian Kingdoms during the Late Middle Ages Máximo Diago Hernando 4 Textiles in the Crown of Aragon: Production, Commerce, Consumption Germán Navarro Espinach 5 The Textile Industry in al-Andalus Adela Fábregas 6 Flax, Wool and Silk: Textile Industries in Medieval Portugal Joana Sequeira III Social Context 7 Dress as a Language: A Survey of ArabicTexts from al-Andalus Manuela Marín 8 Muslim Dress in Medieval Portugal: Textual Evidence in the Context of the Iberian Peninsula †Maria Filomena Lopes de Barros 9 Medieval Castilian Garments and their Arabic Names Dolores Serrano-Niza 10 Clothing, Furnishings and Ceremonies at the Castilian Court (c. 1214−c. 1332) María Barrigón 11 Fabrics and Attire at the Court of Navarre in the Second Half of the Fourteenth Century Merche Osés Urricelqui 12 Textile Production and Jewish Clothing in the Iberian Peninsula: Characteristics, Customs and Differences between Catalan and Other Jewish Communities Esperança Valls Pujol 13 Silk as Reflected in Medieval Iberian Jewish Literature Naḥum Ben-Yehuda 14 The Garment and the Difference: The Attire of Portuguese Jews and New Christians (Conversos) during the Thirteenth to Fifteenth centuries Susana Bastos Mateus Index of Persons and Places Index of Textile terms

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Book SynopsisThe best new research on medieval clothing and textiles, drawing from a range of disciplines. This year's volume focuses largely on the British Isles, with papers on dress terms in the Middle English Pearl; a study of a thirteenth-century royal bride's trousseau, based on unpublished documents concerning King HenryIII's Wardrobe; an investigation into the "open surcoat" referenced in the multilingual texts of late medieval England; and, based on customs accounts, a survey of cloth exports from late medieval London and the merchants who profited from them. Commercial trading of cloth is also the subject of a study of fifteenth-century brokers' books, revealing details of types, designs, and regulation of the famous silks from Lucca, Italy. Another paper focuseson art, reconsidering the incidence of frilled veils in the Low Countries and adopting an innovative means of analysis to question the chronology, geographical diversity, and social context of this style. Robin Netherton is a professional editor and a researcher/lecturer on the interpretation of medieval European dress; Gale R. Owen-Crocker is Professor of Anglo-Saxon Culture at the University of Manchester. Contributors: Benjamin L.Wild, Isis Sturtewagen, Kimberly Jack, Mark Chambers, Eleanor Quinton, John Oldland, Christine MeekTrade ReviewThe eclectic but loosely connected contents of Volume 7 do expand our knowledge of the vagaries and importance of cloth and clothing to the medieval world; as such their appeal goes far beyond the confines of textile historians. * JOURNAL OF MEDIEVAL ARCHAEOLOGY *Table of ContentsPreface The Empress's New Clothes: A Rotulus Pannorum of Isabella, Sister of King Henry III, Bride of Emperor Frederick II - Benjamin L. Wild Unveiling Social Fashion Patterns: A Case Study of Frilled Veils in the Low Countries [1200-1500] - Isis Sturtewagen What Is the Pearl-Maiden Wearing, and Why? - Kimberly Jack "Hys surcote was ouert": The "Open Surcoat" in Late Medieval British Texts - Mark Chambers London Merchants' Cloth Exports, 1350-1500 - Eleanor Quinton and John Oldland Laboreria Sete: Design and Production of Lucchese Silks in the Late Fourteenth and Early Fifteenth Centuries - Christine Meek Recent Books of Interest Contents of Previous Volumes

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Book SynopsisThe best new research on medieval clothing and textiles, drawing from a range of disciplines. The usual wide range of approaches to garments and fabrics appears in this tenth volume. Three chapters focus on practical matters: a description of the medieval vestments surviving at Castel Sant'Elia in Italy; a survey of the spread of silk cultivation to Europe before 1300; and a documentation of medieval colour terminology for desirable cloth. Two address social significance: the practice of seizing clothing from debtors in fourteenth-century Lucca, and the transformation of the wardrobe of Margaret Tudor, daughter of King Henry VII, upon her marriage to the king of Scotland. Two delve into artistic symbolism: a consideration of female headdresses carved at St Frideswide's Priory in Oxford, and a discussion of how Anglo-Saxon artists used soft furnishings to echo emotional aspects of narratives. Meanwhile, in an exercise in historiography, there is an examination of the life of Mrs. A.G.I. Christie, author of the landmark Medieval English Embroidery. ROBIN NETHERTON is a professional editor and a researcher/lecturer on the interpretation of medieval European dress; GALE R. OWEN-CROCKER is Professor of Anglo-Saxon Culture at the University of Manchester. Contributors: Michelle L. Beer, Elizabeth Coatsworth, Valija Evalds, Christine Meek, Maureen C. Miller, Christopher J. Monk, Lisa Monnas, Rebecca Woodward WendelkenTrade ReviewThe contributors to this volume focus on special and also general aspects and demonstrate through their excellent research and clear presentation of the material how much...topics pertaining to textiles allow us to understand many different aspects of culture and society at large. * MEDIAEVISTIK *Table of ContentsBehind the Curtains, Under the Covers, Inside the Tent: Textile Items and Narrative Strategies in Anglo-Saxon Old Testament Art - Christopher J Monk Some Medieval Colour Terms for Textiles - Lisa Monnas Wefts and Worms: The Spread of Sericulture and Silk Weaving in the West before 1300 - Rebecca Woodward Wendelken The Liturgical Vestments of Castel Sant'Elia: Their Historical Significance and Current Condition - Maureen C. Miller Clothing Distrained for Debt in the Court of Merchants of Lucca in the Late Fourteenth Century - Christine Meek Sacred or Profane? The Horned Headdresses of St. Frideswide's Priory - Valija Evalds "Translating" a Queen: Material Culture and the Creation of Margaret Tudor as Queen of Scots - "A formidable undertaking": Mrs. A. G. I. Christie and English Medieval Embroidery - Elizabeth Coatsworth Recent Books of Interest

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Book SynopsisNational Jewish Book Awards 2019 Finalist for Visual Arts. Richly illustrated and meticulously documented, this is the first comprehensive survey of synagogue textiles to be available in English. Bracha Yaniv, a leading expert in the field of Jewish ceremonial textiles, records their evolution from ancient times to the present. The volume contains a systematic consideration of the mantle, the wrapper, the Torah scroll binder, and the Torah ark curtain and valance, and considers the cultural factors that inspired the evolution of these different items and their motifs. Fabrics, techniques, and modes of production are described in detail; the inscriptions marking the circumstances of donation are similarly subjected to close analysis. Fully annotated plates demonstrate the richness of the styles and traditions in use in different parts of the Jewish diaspora, drawing attention to regional customs. Throughout, emphasis is placed on presenting and explaining all relevant aspects of the Jewish cultural heritage. The concluding section contains transcriptions, translations, and annotations of some 180 inscriptions recording the circumstances in which items were donated, providing a valuable survey of customs of dedication. Together with the comprehensive bibliography, inventory lists, and other relevant documentation, this volume will be an invaluable reference work for the scholarly community, museum curators, and others interested in the Jewish cultural heritage.Trade Review‘Bracha Yaniv has assembled a thorough documentation of ceremonial synagogue textile from every possible perspective in this beautifully illustrated book… It showcases the depth of knowledge of a research of an author who has been studying and writing about these subjects for many years. The amply illustrated text reflects her long-time, exhaustive work with Jewish textiles. It will surely be of use to students of the subject as a reference as well as lovers of historic synagogue textiles.’ Annette B. Fromm, Women in Judaism‘Bracha Yaniv’s monograph on synagogal textiles, originally published in Hebrew in 2009, and translated here by Yohai Goell, is the first English-language publication to investigate this somewhat under-explored aspect of material culture. The book’s importance is self-evident, and it should become essential reading for students and scholars of Judaica, and religious textiles in general.’ Nikolaos Vryzidis, Textile HistoryTable of ContentsNote on Transliteration, Names, Dates, and Other Conventions Used in the Text Part I Ceremonial Synagogue Textiles 1. The Evolution of Synagogue Textiles in Ancient and Medieval TimesA. Wrapping and Storing the Torah ScrollThe Mapah (Wrapper)The Tik (Case)The Tevah (Chest)The Holy Ark (Heikhal, or Aron kodesh)B. The Evolution of the WrappingsThe WrapperThe BinderThe MantleC. The Parokhet (Curtain for the Ark)D. The Cover for the Reading Desk 2. Fabrics and TechniquesA. Luxury FabricsThe History of Silk Production and Trade in EuropeJews in International CommerceB. Embroidered ObjectsEmbroidery by Women DonorsProfessional EmbroideryC. PassementerieD. Professional Training, Organization, and ProductionTrainingOrganizationProductionE. Jewish Law and Tradition in Production 3. The Torah Wrapper and the Torah BinderA. The Wrapper in Italy and the Sephardi DiasporaB. The Binder: Terminology, Customs, and DesignLinen and Silk Binders Embroidered by Female DonorsBinders Made from Random Materials 4. The Torah MantleA. Terminology, Design, and IconographyB. Mantles in Italy and the Portuguese Congregations of Western EuropeItalyThe Portuguese Diaspora in the Netherlands and EnglandC. Mantles in the Sephardi DiasporaMoroccoAlgeriaAnatolia and the BalkansD. Ashkenazi Mantles across Europe 5. The Torah Ark Curtain and ValanceA. Parokhot Made from Luxurious Embroidered or Patterned FabricsB. Parokhot Displaying Jewish MotifsThe Gateway to Heaven MotifMotifs Inspired by the Ark of the CovenantThe Motif of the Temple and its Vessels on Parokhot and KaporotThe Giving of the Torah Motif on ParokhotOther Motifs and Later Developments in the Tradition Epilogue Part II Annotated Plates of Representative Textile Objects in the SynagogueA. ItalyB. The Portuguese Congregations in Western EuropeC. MoroccoD. AlgeriaE. Sephardi Synagogues in the Ottoman Empire and the BalkansF. Ashkenazi CommunitiesG. Central EuropeH. Eastern Europe Part III Dedication of Ceremonial Objects A. Inscriptions as a Reflection of Customs of DedicationThe Content of the DedicationThe Circumstances of the DedicationDedication of Ceremonial ObjectsB. Annotated Corpus of Dedicatory InscriptionsTorah Wrappers (Mapot)Torah Binders (Mapot; Italian colloquial term, fascia)Torah MantlesItaly and the NetherlandsNorth AfricaAnatolia and the BalkansCentral EuropeEastern EuropeTorah Ark Curtains (Parokhot) and Valances (Kaporot)ItalyAnatolia and the BalkansCentral Europe and the NetherlandsEastern Europe AppendicesA. Inventory ListsB. Documents Relating to TextilesC. Miscellaneous Inventories Glossary Bibliography List of Figures List of Museums, Libraries, and Collections Index of Places Index of People Index of Subjects

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Book SynopsisNeedle Work: Stitched Illustrations is a lavishly illustrated volume that explores the growing trend in textile-based art and illustration. The works of each featured artist are showcased with full-page illustrations, alongside a brief biography that examines their work, inspiration, and artistic vision.

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Book SynopsisUn análisis en profundidad de las ideas clave que cambiaron la forma de vestir, desde mediados del siglo xx hasta hoy, acompañado de un estudio de las prendas de ropa más emblemáticas, cómo se llevaron, qué surgió de ellas, su trasfondo cultural, su acogida entre el público y su influencia en la moda actual. El armario moderno debe su desarrollo no solo a los diseñadores de París o de Milán, sino también a los grupos y a los movimientos que existen gracias a una apreciación compartida de la música, el deporte, a una cultura en concreto o a un determinado estilo que define una pertenencia. Estos estilos han cambiado la normativa establecida, han creado estereotipos, han conseguido expresar división social al tiempo que han unido a las personas, han comunicado, se han expandido por todo el mundo y, sobre todo, han transformado la forma de vestir de un amplio público. El concepto de moda urbana, lejos de quedar atrás, probablemente es más actual que nunca. Antaño, la expresión hacía referencia a las modas populares no dictadas por las pasarelas, una forma de vestir que expresaba la personalidad de aquellos a quienes la sociedad no consideraba modernos, sino algo mejor, con estilo. Hoy, se ha extendido la idea de que el verdadero estilo es el que se encuentra a pie de calle: las pasarelas se inspiran en él y lo reinventan en una versión más glamurosa. Dados los profundos cambios sociales y tecnológicos de inicios del siglo xxi, la proliferación de la moda urbana y la moda destinada al mercado de masas solo puede ir en aumento. Internet y la omnipresente fotografía digital hacen posible mostrar rápidamente a todo el mundo estilos que antes eran muy reducidos, locales y casi de culto. Además, desde el punto de vista tecnológico, la agilidad del muestreo, la rapidez de los sistemas de producción y la mano de obra barata permiten a las marcas del mercado de masas imitar la prenda más actual y extenderla por el mundo en cuestión de días. Así, las tendencias se desarrollan, expanden, culminan y desaparecen más rápido que nunca en la historia del sector.

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a huge range and FREE tracked UK delivery on ALL orders.

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a huge range and FREE tracked UK delivery on ALL orders.

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a huge range and FREE tracked UK delivery on ALL orders.

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a huge range and FREE tracked UK delivery on ALL orders.

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a huge range and FREE tracked UK delivery on ALL orders.

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Book SynopsisA comprehensive and captivating overview of all of Karl Lagerfeld's Chanel collections, showcasing his creations through original catwalk photographyTrade Review"[Karl Lagerfeld] lives out his own legend in every way he can think of, with every instinct he has, and in a world of stolid conventions, he has the courage to perpetuate a vision of something wonderful."--Andrew O'Hagan, T: The New York Times Style Magazine "Lagerfeld has maintained his preeminence for five decades, and without any visible sign of strain."--John Colapinto, New Yorker "Because fashion is about today. You can take an idea from the past, but, if you do it the way it was, no one wants it."--Karl Lagerfeld

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Book SynopsisIncludes essays that discuss expanded definitions of lace in contemporary art and design and summarizes the history of the Quaker Lace Company of Philadelphia and the impact of its archives and collection on the work in "Lace in Translation".

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Book SynopsisExplores more than 250 exemplary designs in full colour photos of fabric swatches from the top couture fabric design houses of Paris during the early 1960s. Each fabric sample illustrated lists the date of publication as well as the fabric content when known. A special section explores upholstery and household fabrics of the era.

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Book SynopsisHistory of the Hathaway Shirt Company.

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Book SynopsisPictorial documentation of textile fabrics.

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Book SynopsisRelive childhood memories through this collection of vintage children's fabrics. From the popular ABC's to Mary Had a Little Lamb, enjoy 500 patterns in a great variety of themes, designs, and colors. Collectors, designers, and fabric buffs will find this an invaluable resource as vintage children's fabrics have never before been explored or catalogued as extensively. Whether meant for a child's pajamas or placed on a feed sack, these beautifully designed fabrics come to life in this new book. Chapters highlight similar themes with displays of baseball, domestic rituals, displays of letters and numbers block, and various childhood points of interest. If you have a love of fabric history or nostalgia for childhood memories of yesteryear, this book is for you.

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Book SynopsisOriginal ideas for tapestries in the techniques of double weave, inlay, and pattern weave are detailed in engaging text and illustrated by over 90 beautiful color photos displaying the completed tapestries. This captivating book also details stories of the competitive/collaborative nature of commissions integral to the creation of many tapestries. The story begins with the artist's work at Cranbrook Academy of Art. It continues with her work in Portland, Oregon, where it was embraced by art consultants, galleries, and collectors. This fascinating journey chronicles one artist's long career through gorgeous tapestries and their histories, organized in chronological order. Each tapestry displayed presents a seminal idea of the artist and, as she states, a finished tapestry illuminates daily existence and is a part of the on-going chronicle of how design ideas are conceived and executed.Trade Review"I’ve been delighted to discover this author’s work . . . reflects on the joys of designing and weaving her tapestries but also speaks poignantly about the sadness behind some . . . Not a technical manual but a visual chronology, written as the author looks back over her weaving life to see how her ideas and designs evolved, how she combined the speed and strength of shuttle weaving with the haptic creativity of patterning inlay tapestry with her fingers. She engages the reader not just with her visual work but also through the questions she asks and the responses she gives as she develops her weaving voice." -- Canadian Tapestry Network

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Book SynopsisA collection of traditional eighteenth and nineteenth century weaving drafts, written sequences of the threading order on the loom used to create specific patterns. They are presented here in their original form as gathered by Frances L. Goodrich and illustrated in over 160 color photos. This volume also contains over 200 valuable modern translations of the same drafts for use by today's weavers. In 1890, Frances L. Goodrich came to the southern mountains in North Carolina from a life of culture to live and work among people who had little opportunity for education or social enrichment. Through her work for the Presbyterian Home Mission Board, she grew to love and respect these neighbors who worked so hard and had so little. She established schools, a small hospital, and the Allanstand Cottage Industries. As she traveled the mountain roads and trails on horseback, Miss Goodrich collected these precious weaving drafts from the women who wove for Allanstand Cottage Industries. In your ha

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Book SynopsisThe latest edition of this popular, growing series showcases the exciting new designs created by more than 80 recent graduates from 18 premier fashion design programs in the United States. With over 300 striking color images, this fourth edition brings the fresh perspective of the next generation of young designers to the forefront via beautifully designed garments and skillfully rendered illustrations for eveningwear, menswear, lingerie, activewear including yoga and snowboarding apparel, and much more. The wide range of work in this anthology is augmented with a brief dossier on each young designer, including that designer''s source of inspiration and materials used. This easy-to-navigate resource has garments organized alphabetically by designer and indexed graphically by school. It is an essential reference to the newest talent and trends in fashion that will be valued by all who are passionate about this ever-changing field.

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