Textile arts and artworks Books

Book SynopsisNeedlework, Affect and Social Transformation offers an original framework for moving beyond binary discourses that class practices of needlework as either feminist or reactionary. Using transnational, contemporary case studies such as the Social Justice Sewing Academy, fictionalised Bangladeshi garment workers as well as the famous Pussyhat Project Katja May suggests a new approach to the interpretation of textile crafts as an affective social practice, and draws on under-represented issues of race.May connects her study to broader material and social conditions of inequality, allowing for a nuanced and sensitive understanding of the role of needlework in feminist political activism. This broader look at how textile crafts function in the realms of politics and activism conceptualizes quilting, dressmaking, embroidery and knitting as routine activities invested with emotions and entangled with material and social conditions as well as political potential.

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Book SynopsisJosé Blanco F. is Associate Professor at the Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, USA. He is editor of The Meanings of Dress, 5th edition, and has contributed chapters in edited volumes including The Fashion Reader, The Handbook of Masculinity Studies, The Fashion Business Reader, and Transglobal Fashion Narratives. He has published essays in journals including Fashion Theory, Fashion, Style and Popular Culture, Critical Studies in Men's Fashion, Dress, and The Journal of Popular Culture.

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Book SynopsisNew research into the techniques of tablet weaving, sprang, braiding, knotting and lace is presented in this lavishly illustrated volume written by leading specialists from Austria, Canada, Denmark, France, Germany, Sweden, Switzerland, the UK and USA. Drawing inspiration from the pioneering work of Peter Collingwood, this publication explores aspects of these craft skills in the prehistoric, Roman and medieval world through scientific, object-based analysis and 'research through making'.Chapters include the growth of patterned tablet weaving for trimming garments in prehistoric Central Europe; recently identified styles of headdress worn in the Roman Rhineland and pre-Islamic Egypt; Viking-age Dublin as a production centre for tablet-woven bands; a new interpretation of the weaving technique used to make luxurious gold bands in the twelfth to late thirteenth centuries; and the development out of plaiting of bobbin lace borders in gold and silver threads from the fifteenth to early seventeenth centuries. Practical experiments test methods of hand spinning and the production of figure-hugging hose in ancient Greece and Renaissance Italy. A typology of braid and knotting structures in late medieval Europe is also set out for the first time. Diagrams, illustrations and photographs enrich each chapter with a wealth of visual source material.The work is the outcome of recent discoveries of archaeological textile finds from excavations as well as fresh examination of material recovered in the past, or preserved in treasuries. Early textiles form an increasingly popular subject of interest and this publication, which is a landmark in the study of various specialised textile techniques, aims to provide the reader with a better understanding of these virtuoso craft skills in antiquity.Table of ContentsAcknowledgements Introduction Contributor addresses Section I: Tablet weaving 1. ‘Tablet weaving is a small byway of textile production…’ Bronze and Iron Age tablet bands with stripes, meanders and triangles from the salt mines in Austria Karina Grömer 2. The use of weaving tablets in the production of headdresses in Egypt in the Roman and Byzantine periods. A study of a bourrelet from Antinoopolis Claire Gérentet-de-Saluneaux, and Fabienne Médard 3. Evidence of tablet weaving from Viking-age Dublin Frances Pritchard 4. The so-called Palermo Bands and their technique Regula Schorta Section II: Sprang 5. Hairnets with gold-tube beads from the Roman Rhineland and their textile technique Petra Linscheid 6. Sprang hairnets from the necropolis of Fag el Gamous in the Fayum, Egypt Anne Kwaspen and Kristin South 7. Tight-fitting Clothing in Antiquity and the Renaissance: Research and Experimental Reconstruction Dagmar Drinkler and Carol James Section III: Braiding and Lace making 8. Braided strings and Turk’s head knots on European secular and religious textiles Joy Boutrup 9. A unique survival: A woman’s fifteenth-century headdress from Lengberg Castle, East Tyrol Beatrix Nutz, Rachel Case, and Carol James 10. From narrow four-strand plaits to openwork bobbin-made braids and edgings Lena Dahrén Section IV: Spinning 11. The Story of the Twist – Handspinning as a Medieval Craft Katrin Kania Index

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Book SynopsisA lavishly illustrated volume of Pakistani textiles of extraordinary colour and vibrancy from one of the most arid areas on Earth.The Flowering Desert: Textiles from Sindh focuses on a private collection of textiles from Sindh, Pakistan, which, according to some scholars, was the crucible in which the textile traditions of Gujarat and Rajasthan were forged. Sindhi textiles are unique inasmuch as they reflect a dimension that combines the harshness of the terrain with a quest for a mythical and unattainable beauty. The collection is recognised as being of outstanding merit and some of it has featured in exhibitions at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London and the National Museum of Scotland, Edinburgh.In addition to sumptuous reproductions of 120 remarkable objects the book includes contextual photographs of textiles in use.Trade ReviewA breathtaking visual history. * The Guardian 30/10/2019 *This important book and exquisite illustrations will become a vital reference for collectors, textile historians, and those interested in the textile arts wishing to research Sindhi textiles, culture, and embroidery or textiles in general. * The Journal of Dress History 02/06/2021 *

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Book SynopsisUn análisis en profundidad de las ideas clave que cambiaron la forma de vestir, desde mediados del siglo xx hasta hoy, acompañado de un estudio de las prendas de ropa más emblemáticas, cómo se llevaron, qué surgió de ellas, su trasfondo cultural, su acogida entre el público y su influencia en la moda actual. El armario moderno debe su desarrollo no solo a los diseñadores de París o de Milán, sino también a los grupos y a los movimientos que existen gracias a una apreciación compartida de la música, el deporte, a una cultura en concreto o a un determinado estilo que define una pertenencia. Estos estilos han cambiado la normativa establecida, han creado estereotipos, han conseguido expresar división social al tiempo que han unido a las personas, han comunicado, se han expandido por todo el mundo y, sobre todo, han transformado la forma de vestir de un amplio público. El concepto de moda urbana, lejos de quedar atrás, probablemente es más actual que nunca. Antaño, la expresión hacía referencia a las modas populares no dictadas por las pasarelas, una forma de vestir que expresaba la personalidad de aquellos a quienes la sociedad no consideraba modernos, sino algo mejor, con estilo. Hoy, se ha extendido la idea de que el verdadero estilo es el que se encuentra a pie de calle: las pasarelas se inspiran en él y lo reinventan en una versión más glamurosa. Dados los profundos cambios sociales y tecnológicos de inicios del siglo xxi, la proliferación de la moda urbana y la moda destinada al mercado de masas solo puede ir en aumento. Internet y la omnipresente fotografía digital hacen posible mostrar rápidamente a todo el mundo estilos que antes eran muy reducidos, locales y casi de culto. Además, desde el punto de vista tecnológico, la agilidad del muestreo, la rapidez de los sistemas de producción y la mano de obra barata permiten a las marcas del mercado de masas imitar la prenda más actual y extenderla por el mundo en cuestión de días. Así, las tendencias se desarrollan, expanden, culminan y desaparecen más rápido que nunca en la historia del sector.

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