Textile arts and artworks Books

Book SynopsisThe Austrian artist Astrid Esslinger presents a compilation of her work from 2003 to the present day with this volume. She has worked as a freelance artist since 1987. Until then she participated in artistic projects of the Linz artist collective Stadtwerkstatt. Her work can be divided into three parallel phases: her early pieces with textile materials and her later paintings with acrylic colors on canvas as well as pieces using an original technique developed for her work while on journeys, cut outs. The text contribution by Birgit Rinagl concentrates on Esslinger’s paintings which explore the themes of men and women, public and private, work and free time, nature and city as well as life and death. Tom Waibel discusses the subversive character of her hand luggage productions and brings light to their dark and ironic side. The introduction by Fina Esslinger, an art historian and the daughter of the artist, gives the reader the necessary background knowledge on motifs and the theoretical framework of the works, encouraging the reader to enjoy Esslinger’s artistic output.Table of ContentsFina Esslinger: Einleitung / IntroductionBirgit Reinagl: Zwischen Abstraktion und Narration oder: der Pinselstrich als Strichcode / Between abstraction and narration or: the brushstroke as barcodeTom Waibel: Von Konsumsklaven und Warencodierungen – Überlegungen zu Astrid Esslingers Strichcodesklaven / Of Consumer-Slaves and Commodity Coding–Thoughts on Astrid Esslingers StrichcodesklavenBildkatalog / Catalogue of Paintings and Objects

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Book Synopsis

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Book Synopsis

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Book Synopsis

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Book SynopsisIn-Between Textiles is a decentred study of how textiles shaped, disrupted, and transformed subjectivities in the age of the first globalisation. The volume presents a radically cross-disciplinary approach that brings together world-leading anthropologists, archaeologists, art historians, conservators, curators, historians, scientists, and weavers to reflect on the power of textiles to reshape increasingly contested identities on a global scale between 1400 and 1800. Contributors posit the concept of “in-between textiles,” building upon Homi Bhabha’s notion of in-betweenness as the actual material ground of the negotiation of cultural practices and meanings; a site identified as the battleground over strategies of selfhood and the production of identity signs troubled by colonialism and consumerism across the world. In-Between Textiles establishes cutting-edge conversations between textile studies, critical cultural theory, and material culture studies to examine how textiles created and challenged experiences of subjectivity, relatedness, and dis/location that transformed social fabrics around the globe.Trade Review“At a time when the fabric of democracy is rent by xenophobic zealotry, this outstanding volume provides us with the warp and woof of historical exchange and cultural co-existence. These enthralling essays engage with material practices of weaving across genres and geographies, displaying the travelling world of textiles as they record the shifting global communities of a ‘woven imaginary.’ Reading In-Between Textiles, brought to life the migratory memory of my mother’s Parsi garas: a traditional sari, commissioned in Bombay from Chinese sailors who offered her a range of silks and motifs, and brought her the sari, months later, when they docked again in Bombay harbor. Set out on this wondrous voyage of the woven world.” Homi K. Bhabha, Harvard University. “Ranging across five centuries, six continents, and an impressive range of fields, from chemistry-based technologies to ethnographic fieldwork, this broad collection of textile studies recovers the place of subalterns in history, and the varying meanings that early modern textiles took on depending on the communities that used them. Employing the concept of ‘in-betweenness,’ this volume includes the agency of the excluded and allows historians to move away from glorifying metropolitan ‘culture’ without a clear consciousness that it is a culture of imperialism.” Suraiya Faroqhi, Ibn Haldun University. “What happens when a material methodology is used to investigate subjectivities? This remarkable collection of sixteen essays considers the ways in which textiles and clothing serve to unlock the space ‘in-between,’ one of negotiation, translation, and sometimes subversion of identities. In this book early modern cloth, but also dress, embroideries, and carpets are interrogated to create a new conceptualization of the global. Here material exchange, cultural connections, and the encounters of ideas are woven together in a rich tapestry traversing the entire world.” Giorgio Riello, European University Institute Florence. “This pioneering volume offers sixteen case studies that consistently cross-fertilize Homi Bhabha’s postcolonial theory with the new history of material practices to show how dress and textiles produced difference and mimicry in cultural struggles that remade subjectivities in the early modern world. A remarkable feat and excellent read. Beautifully illustrated, incisive, and original, this book presents cutting-edge scholarship.” Ulinka Rublack, University of Cambridge.Table of ContentsContents List of Contributors List of Illustrations Acknowledgements 1 Subjectivities In-Between Early Modern Global Textiles (Beatriz Marín-Aguilera (University of Liverpool), Stefan Hanß (University of Manchester)) Part I: Unhomeliness, Mimicry, and Mockery 2 Maori Textiles and Culture: Adaptation, Transformation, and Manifestation in Early Aotearoa (Catherine Smith (University of Otago)) 3 Contesting Images: The Archaeology of Early Modern Textiles, Clothing and Closures from Puritan New England (Diana DiPaolo Loren (Peabody Museum, Harvard University)) 4 “A Few Shreds of Rough Linen” and “a Certain Degree of Elegance”: Enslaved Textile-Makings in Colonial Brazil and the Caribbean (Robert S. DuPlessis (Swarthmore College)) Part II: The Material Enunciation of Difference 5 Textiles, Fashion, and Questions of Whiteness: Racial Politics and Material Culture in the British World, c.1660–1820 (Beverly Lemire (University of Alberta)) 6 Abolitionism and Kente Cloth: Early Modern West African Textiles in Thomas Clarkson’s Chest (Malika Kraamer (MARKK Hamburg)) 7 Dressing in the Deccan: Clothing and Identity at the Courts of Central India, 1550–1700 (Marika Sardar (Independent Scholar) 8 “Rags of Popery”: Dressing and Addressing the Material Culture of Disrupted Faith in Early Modern England (Mary Brooks (Durham University)) Part III: Identity Effects In-Between the Local and the Global 9 Globalizing Iberian Moorishness: Japanese Visitors, Chinese Textiles, and Imperial Cultural Identity (Javier Irigoyen-García (University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign)) 10 Tornasol Techniques as Cultural Memory: Andean Colonial Practices of Weaving Shimmering Cloth, and Their Regional Forebears (Denise Y. Arnold (University College London and Instituto de Lengua y Cultura Aymara, La Paz)) 11 In Between the Global and the Local: Silk in Seventeenth- and Early Eighteenth-Century Russia (Victoria Ivleva (Durham University)) 12 African Cotton: Cultural and Economic Resistance in Mozambique in the Mid-Eighteenth Century (Luís Frederico Dias Antunes (University of Lisbon)) Part IV: Material Translation and Cultural Appropriation 13 Mediating Mediterranean Cultures: Silk Embroidery and the Design of the Self in Early Modern Algiers (Leyla Belkaïd-Neri (Institut Français de la Mode)) 14 The Material Translation of Persian and Indian Carpets and Textiles in Early Modern Japan (Yumiko Kamada (Keio University)) 15 Globalisation and the Manufacture of Tablet-Woven Sanctuary Curtains in Ethiopia in the Eighteenth Century (Michael Gervers (University of Toronto) and Claire Gérentet de Saluneaux (Lyon)) 16 Cochineal and the Changing Patterns of Consumption of Red Dyes in Early Modern European Textile Industries (Ana Serrano (University of Amsterdam)) Archives, Libraries, and Museums (Abbreviations) Select Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisTextile is a vector of identity - something more important than ever in times of war and crisis in particular. It is connected to the body it covers like a second skin. It both conceals and reveals, and contains a history and iconography whose roots often lie deep in a culture's customs and traditions. As part of its extramural programme, and in collaboration with award-winning photographer Mashid Mohadjerin and journalist Samira Bendadi, Antwerp Fashion Museum (MoMu) have created a new exhibition and accompanying publication on the importance of fabric and clothing to issues of public concern today, such as migration, resistance, tradition, spirituality and decolonisation. The focus is on nine stories of people whom curators Bendadi and Mohadjerin - in whose own personal stories migration features prominently - met during their travels to Paris, Antwerp, Lebanon, Africa, Morocco and Iran. Sometimes the stories are warm and moving; at other times they are tough and heart-wrenching. In them, textile embodies the ideas and emotions coupled with forced or voluntary departure, the yearning for what has been lost, letting go and holding on. This storytelling and photography exhibition will run from 15 November 2019 until 16 February 2020 at Texture Kortrijk, and will travel on to Kunsthal Extra City Antwerp in spring 2020. Text in English and Dutch.

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Book SynopsisIts dry climate means that Egypt boasts an exceptionally rich heritage of preserved ancient textiles. Since 1996, the international research group Textiles from the Nile Valley has been studying these Roman, Byzantine and early-Islamic textile artefacts, many of which have found their way into European and North American museum collections. The research group, consisting of curators, archaeologists, textile conservators and scientists, organises a biennial conference at Katoen Natie HeadquARTers in Antwerp, and publishes a series of unique books on the importance of Egyptian textiles. This latest volume brings together the findings from the 11th conference, which was held from 25 to 27 October 2019. The focus is on the history of textile excavating and collecting, which goes back to the late 19th century. The book contains 18 text contributions describing recent fieldwork, conservation treatments and scientific research worldwide, in collaboration with major universities and museums such as the Victoria & Albert Museum in London and the Hermitage in St. Petersburg. The book is being published to mark the 12th international scientific Textiles from the Nile Valley Conference, which is taking place from 12 to 14 November 2021 in Antwerp. Text in English and German.Table of Contents6 Preface 7 A brief note on the need for 14C-redating 7 Acknowledgements 8 Abbreviations CHAPTER 1 EXPLORERS, FIRST COLLECTORS AND TRADERS 12 A very Victorian tourist: The Reverend Greville John Chester and 19th-century textile collecting at the Victoria and Albert Museum Benjamin Hinson 22 The question of “What went before?” and George Hewitt Myers: The formation of The Textile Museum archaeological collection Sumru Belger Krody 34 Alfred Wiedemann, Émile Brugsch, and the trade in mummy textiles at the end of the 19th century Veerle van Kersen 42 Late Antique textiles from the Robert Forrer collection in Polish museums in the context of his activities as a textile dealer. Preliminary research Anna Głowa 50 A survey of the “Coptic” textiles from the Hermitage collection Olga Osharina 60 Textiles from Egypt’s first millennium AD in Danish museum collections Anne Hedeager Krag 74 Sir Charles Nicholson and the Nicholson Collections at the University of Sydney Glennda Susan Marsh-Letts and Candace Richards 86 Collecting on the side: Textiles from the 1913–14 excavations at Antinoopolis held in three Australasian museums Rosanne Livingstone 96 The first discovery of figured silks in Antinoopolis: Carl Schmidt’s excavations in Egypt Kosuke Goto 112 One of the last choices of Albert Gayet in the field: A child’s tunic from Antinoopolis in Lyon Fleur Letellier-Willemin 120 Fundort bekannt! Stoffe aus Qarara Claudia Nauerth unter Mitarbeit von Béatrice Huber CHAPTER 2 RECEPTION OF TEXTILES IN THE EARLY 20TH CENTURY 134 “Coptic” fabrics, collectors, and the Fauves Nancy Arthur-Hoskins CHAPTER 3 FROM COLLECTIONS: SCIENTIFIC METHODS AND CONSERVATION 144 Mini-weavings from Gebel Zeit Roberta Cortopassi and Mohamed Dallel 152 Site-by-site research on First Millennium AD textiles from Egypt at the British Museum: Conservation and documentation of archaeological collections Anna Harrison, Elisabeth R. O’Connell and Frances Pritchard 166 From the Middle Ages to the Modern Era: A Coptic liturgical garment in the Römisch-Germanisches Zentralmuseum Mainz Petra Linscheid with a contribution by Ina Vanden Berghe CHAPTER 4 TEXTILES FROM RECENT EXCAVATIONS 180 Textile finds from burial 2003-NW-39 of the Fag el-Gamus necropolis Anne Kwaspen and Kristin South 192 Ein Mantel für die kalten Tage Béatrice Huber 202 New finds from old excavations in WesternThebes. Nineteenth-century scholars and the textiles from Deir el-Bachît Sabrina Tatz 210 The spring 2019 season at Hisn al-Bab: Care, study and general presentation of textile finds from Area 9 (6th–7th centuries) Amandine Mérat 220 Bibliography 234 Index names 235 Index places 236 Index textile and costume terms 238 Index museums and institutions 239 Authors

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Book Synopsis

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