Fashion and textile design Books

Book SynopsisThis collaborative ethnography of Italian-Chinese fashion ventures offers a new methodology for understanding transnational capitalism in a global era.Trade Review"Grounded in an innovative, collaborative multi-sited ethnography, this book makes a major contribution to existing literature by capturing the nature and power dynamics of transnational capitalism. . . . [Fabricating Transnational Capitalism] will be welcomed by a wide array of scholars interested in transnational capitalism, labor, kinship, fashion, China, Italy, and beyond." -- Tiantian Zheng * H-Diplo, H-Net Reviews *"This dense and fascinating book proves the relevance of the ethnographic method to analyses of the changing dynamics of transnational capitalism in recent decades." -- Véronique Pouillard * Business History Review *"This book breaths fresh air into the study of global and transnational capitalism. It represents a fine example of collaborative research and an innovative approach to multi-sited ethnography. It offers important insights into how transnational capitalism happens on the ground. This is a must-read for students and scholars of anthropological political economy." -- Jianhua Zhao * Asian Anthropology *"[This] book is much deeper and more nuanced than most comparative or multi-sited studies. The analysis is lucid, innovative, and book reviews thought provoking. The insights are vividly illustrated by interview materials that are carefully qualified and corroborated. This is book that should and will be widely read and discussed in years to come in the fields of globalization, migration, labor, economic sociology and anthropology." -- Biao Xiang * Journal of Chinese Overseas *"This book skilfully explains the dynamic nature of global capitalism and illustrates how the Chinese-Italian transnational market and resource exchanges have expanded industrial capacity. . . . I would recommend this book to a broad readership interested in these topics as well as in Chinese studies, area studies, and kinship." -- Shih-Ying Lin * China Information *"Fabricating Transnational Capitalism is remarkable not only for its convincing argument but also for its form: the book is a collaborative ethnography about capitalist transnational collaborations." -- Gerda Kuiper * Anthropology Book Forum *“Lisa Rofel and Sylvia Yanagisako have provided a creative ethnography of Italian-Chinese ventures in the global fashion industry, making a unique contribution, both conceptually and methodologically.” -- Xiaogang Wu * American Journal of Sociology *"[Rofel and Yanagisako] give detailed and nuanced insights into the processes of transnational capitalism, including privatization, the negotiation of the value of labor, and kinship." -- Hazel Clark * Journal of Asian Studies *“Drawing on the legacy of feminist critiques of public–private spheres, the authors expose how assumptions about such divisions in capitalism play out in globalized contexts. As such, they disrupt ‘an ideal type model’ and bring an understanding of capitalism as a diverse set of arrangements even in highly transnational contexts. Their comparison illuminates the role of states and private entities in structuring enterprises and reveals dynamics that shape value and accumulation as well as kinship and inequality…. The book holds particular value for scholars in globalization studies, political economy, economic sociology, and anthropology, as well as business and organization studies.” -- Elizabeth L. Krause * American Anthropologist *"Fabricating Transnational Capitalism's key contributions are substantive, theoretical and methodological.… The book is a refreshingly unique approach to anthropological studies of contemporary transnationalism.… It would be an excellent text to teach in courses in anthropology, geography, gender, women and sexuality studies, and political economy." -- Priti Ramamurthy * Asia Pacific Journal of Anthropology *Table of ContentsForeword / Robert J. Foster vii Acknowledgments xi Introduction 1 I. The Negotiation of Value 35 1. Negotiating Managerial Labor Power and Value / Lisa Rofel and Sylvia J. Yanagisako 43 II. Historical Legacies and Revisionist Histories 109 2. The (Re-)Emergence of Entrepreneurialism in Postsocialist China / Lisa Rofel 119 3. Italian Legacies of Capital and Labor / Sylvia Yanagisako 161 4. One Fashion, Two Nations: Italian-Chinese Collaborations / Simona Segre Reinach 190 III. Kinship and Transnational Capitalism 217 5. On Generation / Sylvia Yanagisako 227 6. The Reappearance and Elusiveness of Chinese Family Firms / Lisa Rofel 264 Conclusion 303 Appendix: Four Types of Collaboration between Chinese and Italian Firms 313 Notes 319 References 345 Index 363

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Book SynopsisElspeth H. Brown traces modeling's history from the advent of photographic modeling in the early twentieth century to the rise of the supermodel in the 1980s, showing how it is both the quintessential occupation of a modern consumer economy and a practice that has been shaped by queer sensibilities.Trade Review"Whether it’s the showgirls of the 1920s, fashion photographer George Platt Lynes spearheading 'queer glamour' in the 1930s, or the groundbreaking Black models of the 1950s and ’60s, Brown’s book will reshape our understanding of the modeling industry." -- Evette Dionne * Bitch *"Modelling is a queer business in every sense of that word. Brown’s exploration of it is fascinating: intelligent and unexpected in the turns that its analysis takes. This is no glib foray into celebrity culture, no superficial survey of supermodels. . . . A strikingly original, non-normative telling of 20th-century culture." -- Shahidha Bari * Times Higher Education *"Everyone from armchair fashionistas to modeling industry executives will find something to ponder in this original, creative, and beautifully queer examination of the international fashion machine and the role of the human model." -- Jim Piechota * Bay Area Reporter *"Work! is a deep dive into the history of a profession that is often regarded by many with surface-level thought. Modeling is often tasked to help create an image worth a thousand words, but Brown successfully uses more than that to show how the vocation and its inherent queerness pervades multiple aspects of America’s culture." -- Alex Tunney * Lambda Literary Review *"Exploring both fashion stills and the history of live modelling that eventually shaped black drag, Brown’s Work! is revelatory because it is intersectional and, arguably, the first comprehensive historical treatment of this lucrative industry, where various forms of influential queerness have been hiding in plain sight." -- Nathalie Atkinson * Globe and Mail *"A necessary addition to the fields of LGBTQ and fashion scholarship. . . . Brown’s book is a study in strength and courage inside a system predicated upon inequality, injustice, and harm—a beacon of light in a time of darkness and a reminder that there is far more to an image than meets the eye." -- Miss Rosen * Feature Shoot *"The book is a pleasure to read, full of interesting anecdotes about celebrated photographers like Richard Avedon, Cecil Beaton, Adolph de Meyer, Horst P. Horst, George Platt Lynes, and Edward Steichen. It is also illustrated with color photographs from the world of fine art and the pages of magazines like Vogue, Ebony, and Jet. This is a book for scholars and enthusiasts of fashion. . . . Recommended. All readers." -- T. Nygard * Choice *"Richly detailed and meticulously researched, Elspeth Brown’s Work! offers an intersectional framework through which the reader is able to consider the history of capitalism, queerness, and studies of affect and emotion through the lens of fashion, advertising, and the model. … Brown’s work is unique in that it offers a narrative that sits uncomfortably between celebratory firsts for black models and gay photographers and the stereotyped messages inherently and, at times, unintentionally embedded within the fashion and advertising images." -- Jennie Woodard * History *"Across the book’s five chapters—each vividly illustrated—Brown looks at the proliferation of ways that female bodies could be displayed: in couture houses, on stage, in print advertisements, as part of Hollywood’s creation of glamour and in high-end fashion publications. At each juncture she explores the shifting relationship between desire and commerce, observing the 'de-eroticised, public sexuality embodied by those selling clothes, goods and ideals. Describing those models who performed a kind of 'material seduction'—one existing at a distance, alluring in its intangibility—Brown traces the subversive potential in the business of visual fantasy." -- Rosalind Jana * TLS *“The unique contribution of the book is the way the author weaves the narrative through the lens of affect theory while also engaging the history of capitalism.... The book is a breath of fresh air ... and I offer much applause to the author for undertaking this rigorous project.” -- Kelly L. Reddy-Best * Dress *“I would highly recommend Work! to anyone interested in fashion studies, identity studies, queer studies, feminism, African American studies, black studies, history of photography, or art history and visual culture.... Work! is a superbly crafted, refreshingly clear and indispensable new history of modelling.” -- Joy Sperling * Fashion, Style & Popular Culture *“With Work!, Elspeth H. Brown. . . has tied together the different strands of her intellectual expertise––queer and trans studies as well as affect theory––to take the reader on a mesmerizing journey through an until now uninvestigated queer history of fashion modeling.” -- Roberto Filippello * Fashion Theory *“Work! is a groundbreaking contribution to the study of histories of sexuality, gender, race, and the market.... Brown’s book is a fascinating must read because it provides a history for an industry that is ever present but also somehow discursively invisible.” -- Stefanie K. Dunning * Journal of African American History *Table of ContentsAcknowledgments ix Illustrations xiii Introduction 1 1. From the Artist's Model to the Photographic Model: Containing Sexuality in the Early Twentieth Century 25 2. Race, Sexuality, and the 1920s Stage Model 69 3. Queering Interwar Fashion: Photographers, Models, and the Queer Production of the "Look" 103 4. Black Models and the Invention of the US: "Negro Market," 1945-1960 163 5. "You've Got to Be Real": Constructing Femininity in the Long 1970s 211 Epilogue 271 Notes 277 Bibliography 313 Index 337

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Book SynopsisShows how the fashion industry in the mid- to late twentieth century created a particular way of seeing religion as fashionableFrom cross necklaces to fashion designs inspired by nuns' habits, how have fashion sources interpreted Christianity? And how, in turn, have these interpretations shaped conceptions of religion in the United States? Religion in Vogue explores the intertwined history of Christianity and the fashion industry. Using a diverse range of fashion sources, including designs, jewelry, articles in fashion magazines, and advertisements, Lynn S. Neal demonstrates how in the second half of the twentieth century the modern fashion industry created an aestheticized Christianity, transforming it into a consumer product. The fashion industry socialized consumers to see religion as fashionable and as a beautiful lifestyle accessorysomething to be displayed, consumed, and experienced as an expression of personal identity and taste. Religion was something to be embraced and shown oTrade Review"Neal mines issues of Vogue magazine from the mid-1940s to the late 1990s to explore fashion’s shifting use of religious symbols in this persuasively argued work... [A] fresh take on an underexplored facet of the American experience." * Publishers Weekly *"[Neal] considers the inspirations of various designers and explores how advertising and marketing framed religious symbols, devotions, and icons into a commodity for trend-setting audiences, all of which culminates in a provocative conclusion that lends itself to further discussion... [E]xtensively researched, fascinating account." * STARRED Library Journal *"A comprehensive study of Vogue magazine’s archive detailing the entanglement between American Christianity and fashion culture from the latter half of the twentieth century to the present ... Neal’s goal is to show how studying fashion supplies important insight into twentieth and twenty-first century American religious life. Unquestionably, Religion in Vogue is a phenomenal text. Neal set an ambitious research goal and accomplished it ... A cutting-edge work." * Journal of the American Academy of Religion *

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Book SynopsisOver the last four decades, the fashion modeling industry has become a lightning rod for debates about Western beauty ideals, the sexual objectification of women, and consumer desire. Yet, fashion models still captivate, embodying all that is cool, glam, hip, and desirable. They are a fixture in tabloids, magazines, fashion blogs, and television. Why exactly are models so appealing? And how do these women succeed in so soundly holding our attention?In This Year's Model, Elizabeth Wissinger weaves together in-depth interviews and research at model castings, photo shoots, and runway shows to offer a glimpse into the life of the model throughout the 20th and 21st centuries. Once an ad hoc occupation, the model life now involves a great deal of physical and virtual management of the body, or what Wissinger terms glamour labor. Wissinger argues that glamour laborthe specialized modeling work of self-styling, crafting a look,' and building an imagehas been amplified by the rise of digital meTrade ReviewIn a thoroughly fresh analysis, Wissinger uses the fashion model as a lens to theorize changing intersections of technology and the body. With an eye for rich ethnographic detail, she takes us inside the world of modeling and skillfully back out again into the macro historical changes in embodiment and technology that modeling exemplifies.This Years Model delivers a rich and troubling history of how we have all come to manage ourselves as brands.Its the kind of book that will change how you think about your own bodys place in our high-tech world. -- Ashley Mears,author of Pricing Beauty: The Making of a Fashion ModelIn a sympathetic yet critical view of the labor of glamour, Wissinger presents rich ethnographic work augmented with interviews and the close integration of media and press materials on the historical trajectory of the modeling and fashion industry from the mid-1980s through the present. * Choice *Table of Contentsvii Contents Preface ix Acknowledgments xiii Introduction: Glamour Labor 1 1. Supermodels of the World: Living the Life 35 2. The Runway: Step into the Room Like It's a Catwalk 59 3. The Photo Shoot: Strike a Pose - There's Nothing to It 80 4. Cover Girl: Managing the Model Body 108 5. The Fashionable Ideal: Looking Like a Model 141 6. The Job: Nice Work If You Can Get It 162 7. Scouting: The Hunger for New Faces 185 8. Black-Black-Black: How Race Is Read 216 9. Touch-Ups: Making the Model Better 243 Conclusion: The Affective Turn 267 Appendix: A Chronology of Modeling in the Media, 1980 - 2010 279 Notes 283 Index 339 About the Author 353

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Book SynopsisShows how the fashion industry in the mid- to late twentieth century created a particular way of seeing religion as fashionableFrom cross necklaces to fashion designs inspired by nuns' habits, how have fashion sources interpreted Christianity? And how, in turn, have these interpretations shaped conceptions of religion in the United States? Religion in Vogue explores the intertwined history of Christianity and the fashion industry. Using a diverse range of fashion sources, including designs, jewelry, articles in fashion magazines, and advertisements, Lynn S. Neal demonstrates how in the second half of the twentieth century the modern fashion industry created an aestheticized Christianity, transforming it into a consumer product. The fashion industry socialized consumers to see religion as fashionable and as a beautiful lifestyle accessorysomething to be displayed, consumed, and experienced as an expression of personal identity and taste. Religion was something to be embraced and shown oTrade Review"Neal mines issues of Vogue magazine from the mid-1940s to the late 1990s to explore fashion’s shifting use of religious symbols in this persuasively argued work... [A] fresh take on an underexplored facet of the American experience." * Publishers Weekly *"[Neal] considers the inspirations of various designers and explores how advertising and marketing framed religious symbols, devotions, and icons into a commodity for trend-setting audiences, all of which culminates in a provocative conclusion that lends itself to further discussion... [E]xtensively researched, fascinating account." * STARRED Library Journal *"A comprehensive study of Vogue magazine’s archive detailing the entanglement between American Christianity and fashion culture from the latter half of the twentieth century to the present ... Neal’s goal is to show how studying fashion supplies important insight into twentieth and twenty-first century American religious life. Unquestionably, Religion in Vogue is a phenomenal text. Neal set an ambitious research goal and accomplished it ... A cutting-edge work." * Journal of the American Academy of Religion *

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Book SynopsisHow transnational modernity is taking shape in and in relation to AsiaFashion and Beauty in the Time of Asia considers the role of bodily aesthetics in the shaping of Asian modernities and the formation of the so-called Asian Century. S. Heijin Lee, Christina H. Moon, and Thuy Linh Nguyen Tu train our eyes on sites as far-flung, varied, and intimate as Guangzhou and Los Angeles, Saigon and Seoul, New York and Toronto. They map the transregional connections, ever-evolving aspirations and sensibilities, and new worlds and life paths forged through engagements with fashion and beauty.Contributors consider American influence on plastic surgery in Korea, Vietnamese debates about the fashionable, and the costs and commitments demanded of those who make and wear fast fashion, from Chinese garment workers to Nepalese nail technicians in New York who are mandated to dress fashionably. In doing so, this interdisciplinary anthology moves beyond common characterizationTrade ReviewAs Asia becomes increasingly central to the global fashion system, books like Fashion and Beauty in the Time of Asia become ever more important. -- Dr. Valerie Steele, Director, the Museum at the Fashion Institute of TechnologyFashion and Beauty in the Time of Asia is razor sharp in its framework and rigorous in its analysis. Eschewing tropes about the Asian continent and its oblique relationship to Western industries, the book maps new transnational circuits of exchange and offers readers fresh language to explain modernity, geopolitics, economics, and global taste cultures. It is so refreshing to read scholarship that takes fashion and beauty seriously. -- Tanisha C. Ford, author of Dressed in Dreams: A Black Girl's Love Letter to the Power of Fashion

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Book SynopsisUsing clothing as a point of departure, these essays imagine the South's centuries-long engagement with a global economy through garments, with cotton harvested by enslaved or poorly paid workers, milled in distant factories, designed with influence from cosmopolitan tastemakers, and sold back in the South, often by immigrant merchants.

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Book SynopsisFashion is under the spotlight like never before. Activists call for environmental accountability, and wide-ranging debates highlight exploitation across global supply chains and the reliance on unpaid labour. Digital technology undermines traditional fashion companies, while small-scale independent fashion designers provide radical innovations in design and work in more socially inclusive ways. This book contributes to a new sociology of fashion. Focusing on the working lives of independent designers and based on ethnographic research and interviews carried out in London, Berlin and Milan, the authors consider the urban policy regimes in place in these cities. They analyse how these regimes shape the microenterprises and the emerging political economy, as well as the structures needed for designers to flourish. They also develop several key concepts – the ‘milieu of fashion labour’, ‘social fashion’ and ‘fashion diversity’ – and chart the new world of digital fashion-tech and e-commerce. Drawing on lessons from European initiatives and recognizing the capacity of microenterprises and start-ups to determine fashion’s future, the authors call for the industry to be significantly decentralized to ensure more diversity and less exclusivity.Trade Review"Fashion as Creative Economy is a brilliant, multilayered work that offers an unparalleled theoretical synthesis of the fashion industry. It makes effective recommendations for how this system can be transformed and made more just."Jo Littler, City, University of London "This book is an important addition to both the scholarly literature and the public debates over the future of the fashion industry."David O’Brien, University of Sheffield

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Book SynopsisThe importance of fashion in the construction and representation of gender and the formation of modern society in nineteenth-century Spanish narrative is the focus of Dorota Heneghan’s Striking Their Modern Pose. The study moves beyond traditional interpretations that equate female passion for finery with symptoms of social ambition and the decline of the Spanish nation, and brings to light the manners in which nineteenth-century Spanish novelists drew attention to the connection between the complexities of fashionable female protagonists and the shifting limits of conventional womanhood to address the need to reformulate customary ideals of gender as a necessary condition for Spain to advance in the process of modernization. The project also sheds light on an area largely unexplored by previous studies: men’s pursuit of fashion. Through the analysis of the richness of sartorial subtleties in Benito Pérez Galdós’s and Emilia Pardo Bazán’s portraits of their male characters, this book brings forward these writers’ exposure of the much-denied bourgeois men’s love for self-adornment and the incoherencies and contradictions in the allegedly monolithic, stable concept of nineteenth-century Spanish masculinity. While highlighting the ways in which the art of dressing smartly provided nineteenth-century Spanish novelists with effective means to voice their critique of conventional gender order, the book also lends insight into these authors’ methods of manipulating sartorial signs to explore and to envision (as in the case of Pardo Bazán and Jacinto Octavio Picón) alternative models of masculinity and femininity. Threading through all chapters of the study is the idea propagated by all three of these writers that Spain’s full integration into modernity required not only the redefinition of the feminine role, but the reconfiguration of the masculine one as well.

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Book SynopsisShows how cinematic treatments of fashion during times of crisis offer subtle reflections on the everyday lives, desires, careers, and self-perceptions of postwar German women. This book steers attention toward two key aspects of German culture - film and fashion - that shared similar trajectories and multiple connections, looking at them not only in the immediate postwar years but as far back as 1939. They formed spectacular sites of the postwar recovery processes in both East and West Germany. Viewed against the background of the abundant fashion discourses in the Berlin-based press, the films discussed include classics such asThe Murderers Are among Us, Street Acquaintance, and Destinies of Women as well as neglected works such as And the Heavens above Us, Martina, Modell Bianka, and Ingrid. These films' treatments of fashion during times of crisis offer subtle reflections on the everyday lives, desires, careers, and self-perceptions of the women who made up a large majority of the postwar public. Costume - in films produced both by DEFA and by West German studios - is a productive site to explore the intersections between realism and escapism. With its focus on costumes within the context of the films' production, distribution, and reception, this bookopens up wider discussions about the role of the costume designer, the ways film costumes can be read as intertexts, and the impact on audiences' behaviors and looks. The book reveals multiple connections between film and fashion,both across the temporal dividing line of 1945 and the Cold War split between East and West. Mila Ganeva is Professor of German at Miami University, Oxford, Ohio.Trade Review[A] captivating interpretation of fashion and film in 'the long 1940s' in Germany . . . . a valuable resource for scholars and students, as well as a lively and fascinating read for a broader audience. -- Victoria Vygodskaia-Rust * GERMAN STUDIES REVIEW *Meticulously researched...Ganeva's trenchant analysis shows how fashion maintained pretences of normality during wartime, bolstered the processes of postwar normalization, and eventually helped to define attitudes towards consumer culture and material abundance in a 1950s Germany divided between East and West. -- Marketa Uhlirova * SCREEN *With [this book] Mila Ganeva puts forth an insight-rich study of the cultural meaning of fashion in film and the press from the Nazi period to the beginnings of the Cold War in Berlin. . . . [C]learly written and precisely researched . . . . An important contribution to research on the female horizon of experience in the 1940s and 1950s. -- Jan Uelzmann * FILMBLATT *This interesting book sheds light on the [postwar] period [in Germany] by documenting that both [the film and fashion] industries cultivated a vision of the autonomous, professionally accomplished woman and that numerous women were able to achieve an independent existence within these industries. -- R. Bledsoe * CHOICE *The book . . . is outstandingly researched and fills a thematic gap in the literature of German film history. -- Hans Helmut Prinzler * WWW.HHPRINZLER.DE *Table of ContentsIntroduction Vicarious Consumption: Wartime Fashion in Film and the Press, 1939-44 "Fashions for Fräuleins": The Rebirth of the Fashion Industry and Media in Berlin after 1945 Vignette 1 - Charlotte Glückstein: Historical Ruptures and Continuities in Postwar Fashion Fashion amidst the Ruins: Revisiting Two Early Rubble Films, . . . und über uns der Himmel (1947) and Die Mörder sind unter uns (1946) Vignette 2 - Hildegard Knef: Star Appeal from Fashion to Film Farewell to the Rubble and Welcome to the New Look: Straßenbekanntschaft (1948) and Martina (1949) Consuming Fashion on the Screens of the Early 1950s: Modell Bianka (1951), Frauenschicksale (1952), and Ingrid: Die Geschichte eines Fotomodells (1955) Epilogue Appendix 1:Principal Costume and Fashion Designers: Biographical Notes Appendix 2: Films and Newsreels Discussed Notes Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisRecognizing this process as a dynamic interaction of investigation, interpretation, intervention, re-creation, and display, Refashioning and Redress: Conserving and Displaying Dress examines the ways in which these seemingly static exhibitions of "costume" or "fashion" are actively engaged in cultural production. The seventeen case studies included here reflect a broad range of practice and are presented by conservators, curators, makers, and researchers from around the world, exposing changing approaches and actions at different times and in different places. Ranging from the practical to the conceptual, these contributions demonstrate the material, social, and philosophical interactions inherent in the conservation and display of dress and draw upon diverse disciplines ranging from dress history to social history, material cultural studies to fashion studies, and conservation to museology. Case studies include fashion as spectacle in the museum, dress as political and personal memorialization, and theatrical dress, as well as dress from living indigenous cultures, dress in fragments, and dress online.Trade Review"Helpful and inspiring. Well worth a look!"--ICON News "Recommended."--Choice

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Book SynopsisA behind-the-scenes look at the only fashion show held at the White House and the intersections of fashion and politicsOn February 29, 1968, the White House hosted its first—and only—fashion show. At the time, the patriotic event was lauded by the press, and many predicted it would become an annual occasion, especially since fashion had grown to become the fourth largest industry in the United States, employing 1.4 million Americans, more than 80 percent of them women. But the social and political turmoil of that particular year—from the Vietnam War, the civil rights movement, and the assassinations of Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. and Senator Robert F. Kennedy—cast a shadow over the festivities. Using eyewitness accounts as well as carefully preserved records, artifacts, and previously unpublished images, Red, White, and Blue on the Runway re-creates the once-in-a-lifetime event and explores the reasons why the first White House fashion show was destined to be the last. The politics of fashion touched everyone involved in this landmark occasion in American fashion history, from hostess Lady Bird Johnson and the Johnson daughters to the designers, including Bill Blass, Geoffrey Beene, Mollie Parnis, and Oscar de la Renta, as well as the models and guests. Those guests included the wives of governors and of President Johnson's Cabinet, in addition to dozens of fashion designers and prominent journalists who reported on the event. In our own turbulent political climate, Red, White, and Blue on the Runway takes us back to an equally tense time, providing a unique historical perspective on themes of fashion, politics, protest, and image-making that are immediately relevant today.Trade Review"First Lady Lady Bird Johnson knew the importance of fashion, and with her keen interest she made efforts to bring this conversation directly into the halls of the White House." —Jennifer Highfield, President and CEO of National First Ladies' Library "Lady Bird Johnson, a most pragmatic and sensible Texan, was disinclined to devote much time and effort to the pursuit of Megapolitan fashion 'froufrou.' Red, White, and Blue on the Runway traces the evolution of this First Lady into a supporter of the fashion industry and recounts with fascinating insider detail the unique American-themed fashion show at the White House in the tumultuous year of 1968." —Susan W. Greene, author of Wearable Prints, 1760–1860: History, Materials, and Mechanics

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Book SynopsisFor conscious consumers, buying clothes has never been more complicated. Even as fashion brands tout their sustainability, the industry is plagued by pollution, waste, and poor working conditions. If our clothes reflect our values, is it possible to be truly well-dressed? Sustainable fashion consultant Lucianne Tonti answers with a resounding yes. Beautiful clothes made from natural fabrics including cotton, wool, flax, and cashmere can support rural communities and regenerate landscapes. They can also reduce waste-but only if we invest in garments that stand the test of time rather than chasing fast fashion trends. In Sundressed, Tonti travels the world to showcase producers who are reforming the industry, from Mongolian goatherders, to Mulberry groves in China, and American hemp farms. Many of these innovations begin in the fields, with the cotton crops that will ultimately be spun into a soft T-shirt or the sheep's wool than will be knitted into a cozy sweater. Fiber farmers are taking a page from the regenerative agriculture movement, giving back to the land as they tend it. Meanwhile, further down the supply chain, top designers are working with Indigenous communities to relearn the artistry of sewing-and reward them financially. And global brands, including Levi's, are working to produce a pair of jeans that can withstand dozens of washes without any sign of wear. Tonti also shows readers how accessible sustainable fashion can be. Not everyone can afford a designer shirt that was lovingly hand-sewn. But most of us can buy less, choose natural fabrics over polyester, thrift shop, and wear our clothes longer. Sundressed is an exploration of a revolution taking place in fashion. And it is a love letter to clothing that embodies beauty and value, from farm to closet.

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Book SynopsisPrinted cotton sacks are currently fashionable aspects for material culture research, particularly in the costume and quilt history communities. In the second quarter of the twentieth century, these mass-produced sacks were relied upon by rural America as a valuable source of free fabric for clothing, quilts, and home décor.This book is the catalog for the Museum of Texas Tech University's "Cotton and Thrift" exhibition, which showcases the Pat L. Nickols Cotton Sack Research Collection. The Nickols Collection includes white sacks, printed partial and whole cotton sacks, swatches of printed sacks, instructional booklets, garments, quilts, quilt tops and decorated white sacks. Combined with earlier and subsequent individual donations, the almost 6000 feed sack pieces held by the Museum of TTU make this the largest collection of feed sack materials to be assembled by an American university, and likely the largest such collection in public hands.

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Book SynopsisA wide-ranging and varied collection of essays which examine surviving garments, methods of production and clothes in society. The second decade of this acclaimed and popular series begins with a volume that will be essential reading for historians and re-enactors alike. Two papers consider cloth manufacture in the early medieval period: Ingvild Øye examines the graves of prosperous Viking Age women from Western Norway which contained both textile-making tools and the remains of cloth, considering the relationship between the two. Karen Nicholson compliments this with practical experiments in spinning. This is followed by Tina Anderlini's close examination of the details of cut and construction of a thirteenth-century chemise attributed to King Louis IX of France (St Louis), out of its shrine for the firsttime since 1970. Three papers consider fashionable clothing and morality: Sarah-Grace Heller discusses sumptuary legislation from Angevin Sicily in the 1290s which sought to restrict men's dress at a time when preparation for war was more important than showy clothes; Cordelia Warr examines the dire consequences of a woman dressing extravagantly as portrayed in a fourteenth-century Italian fresco; and Emily Rozier discusses the extremes of dress attributed by moral and satirical writers to the men known as "galaunts". Two textual studies then show the importance of textiles in daily life. Susan Powell reveals the austere but magnificent purchases made on behalf of Lady Margaret Beaufort, mother of King Henry VII, in the last ten years of her life (1498-1509); Anna Riehl Bertolet discusses in detail the passage in Shakespeare's A Midsummer Night's Dream where Helena passionately recalls sewinga sampler with Hermia when they were young and still bosom friends.Table of ContentsProduction, Quality, and Social Status in Viking Age Dress: Three Cases from Western Norway - Ingvild Oye The Effect of Spindle Whorl Design on Wool Thread Production: A Practical Experiment Based on Examples from Eighth-Century Denmark - Karen Nicholson The Shirt Attributed to St. Louis - Tina Anderlini Angevin-Sicilian Sumptuary Statutes of the 1290s: Fashion in the Thirteenth-Century Mediterranean - Sarah-Grace Heller The Devil on My Tail: Clothing and Visual Culture in the Camposanto Last Judgment - Cordelia Warr "Transposing þe shapus þat God first mad them of": Manipulated Masculinity in the Galaunt Tradition - Emily J. Rozier Textiles and Dress in the Household Papers of Lady Margaret Beaufort (1443-1509), Mother of King Henry VII - Susan Powell "Like two artificial gods": Needlework and Female Bonding in A Midsummer Night's Dream - Anna Riehl Bertolet

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Book SynopsisThe best new research on medieval clothing and textiles, drawing from a range of disciplines. The studies collected here range through art, artifacts, documentary text, and poetry, addressing both real and symbolic functions of dress and textiles. John Block Friedman breaks new ground with his article on clothing for pets and other animals, while Grzegorz Pac compares depictions of sacred and royal female dress and evaluates attempts to link them together. Jonathan C. Cooper describes the clothing of scholars in Scotland's three pre-Reformation universities and the effects of the Reformation upon it. Camilla Luise Dahl examines references to women's garments in probates and what they reveal about early modern fashions. Megan Cavell focuses on the treatment of textiles associated with the Holy of Holies in Old English biblical poetry. Frances Pritchard examines the iconography, heraldry, and inscriptions on a worn and repaired set of embroidered fifteenth-century orphreys to determine their origin.Finally, Thomas M. Izbicki summarizes evidence for the choice of white linen for the altar and the responsibilities of priests for keeping it clean and in good repair.Table of ContentsThe Attire of the Virgin Mary and Female Rulers in Iconographical Sources of the Ninth to Eleventh Centuries: Analogues, Interpretations, Misinterpretations - Grzegorz Pac Sails, Veils, and Tents: The Segl and Tabernacle of Old English Christ III and Exodus - Megan Cavell Linteamenta altaria: The Care of Altar Linens in the Medieval Church - Thomas M. Izbicki Coats, Collars, and Capes: Royal Fashions for Animals in the Early Modern Period - John Block Friedman A Set of Late-Fifteenth-Century Orphreys Relating to Ludovico Buonvisi, a Lucchese Merchant, and Embroidered in a London Workshop - Frances Pritchard Academical Dress in Late Medieval and Renaissance Scotland - Jonathan C. Cooper Dressing the Bourgeoisie: Clothing in Probate Records of Danish Townswomen, ca. 1545-1610 - Camilla Luise Dahl Recent Books of Interest

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Book SynopsisThe best new research on medieval clothing and textiles, drawing from a range of disciplines. Three of the essays in this collection focus on Italy, with contributions on footwear in Lucca based on documentary evidence of the fourteenth century; aristocratic furnishings as described in a royal letter of the fifteenth century, along with its first translation into English; and Boccaccio's treatment of disguise involving Christian/Islamic identity shifts in his Decameron. The Bayeux Tapestry is discussed as a narrative artwork that adopts various costumes for semiotic purposes. Another chapter considers surviving artefacts: a detailed study of a piece of quilted fabric armour, one of two such items surviving in Lübeck, Germany, reveals how it was made and suggests reasons for some of the unusual features. The volume also includes an investigation of the commercial vocabulary related to the medieval textile and fur industries: the terms used in Britain for measuring textile and fur are listed and discussed, especially the unique use of Anglo-French "launces" in a document of 1300. Contributors: Jane Bridgeman, Mark C. Chambers, Jessica Finley, Ana Grinberg, Christine Meek, Gale R. Owen-CrockerTrade ReviewThose working in the sphere of medieval clothing and textiles are very fortunate. Medieval Clothing and Textiles is a series which maintains high standards, showcases new research and is beautifully produced. * MEDIEVAL ARCHAEOLOGY *An excellent collection... it provides both new information and new perspectives on studying the medieval clothing culture through a comparative and interdisciplinary approach. * JOURNAL OF DRESS HISTORY *Table of ContentsPreface The Significance of Dress in the Bayeux Tapestry - Gale R. Owen-Crocker How Long Is a Launce? Units of Measure for Cloth in Late Medieval Britain - Mark C Chambers Robes, Turbans, and Beards: "Ethnic Passing" in Decameron 10.9 - Ana Grinberg Calciamentum: Footwear in Late Medieval Lucca - Christine E. Meek "Bene in ordene et bene ornata": Eleonora d'Aragona's Description of Her Suite of Rooms in a Roman Palace of the Late Fifteenth Century - Jane Bridgeman The Lübeck Wappenröcke: Distinctive Style in Fifteenth-Century German Fabric Armor - Jessica Finley Recent Books of Interest

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Book SynopsisEssays on costume, fabric and clothing in the Middle Ages and beyond. All those who work with historical dress and textiles must in some way re-fashion them. This fundamental concept is developed and addressed by the articles collected here, ranging over issues of gender, status and power. Topics include: the repurposing and transformation of material items for purposes of religion, memorialisation, restoration and display; attempts to regulate dress, both ecclesiastical and secular, the reasons for it and the refashioning which was both a result and a reaction; conventional ways in which dress was used to characterise children, and their transition into young men; how symbolism-laded dress items could indicate political/religious affiliations; waysin which allegorical, biblical and historical figures were depicted in art in dress familiar to the viewers of their own era, and the emotive and intellectual responses to these costumes the artists sought to elicit; and the use of clothing in medieval literature (often rich, exotic or unique) as narrative, structuring and rhetorical devices. Taken together, they honour the costume historian and editor Robin Netherton, who has been hugely influentialin the development of medieval and Renaissance dress and textile studies. GALE R. OWEN-CROCKER is Professor Emerita at the University of Manchester; MAREN CLEGG HYER is Professor of English at Valdosta State University. Contributors: Melanie Schuessler Bond, Elizabeth Coatsworth, Lisa Evans, Gina Frasson-Hudson, Charney Goldman, Sarah-Grace Heller, Maren Clegg Hyer, John Friedman, Thomas Izbicki, Drea Leed, Christine Meek, M.A. Nordtorp-Madson, Gale R. Owen-Crocker, Lucia Sinisi, Monica L. Wright.Trade ReviewThis beautifully affectionate tribute to Robin Netherton, co-founding editor (with Gale R. Owen-Crocker) of Medieval Clothing and Textiles (2006-), sets a new standard for such volumes and demonstrates how those who do the under appreciated work of organizing, editing, and mentoring make significant contributions to medieval studies. [...] This volume was clearly a labor of love and is a fitting tribute to a remarkable scholar. * SPECULUM *Table of ContentsIntroduction - Maren Clegg Hyer Robin Netherton: A Life - Gale R. Owen-Crocker Introduction - Gale R. Owen-Crocker Robin Netherton: A Life - Gina A. Frasson-Hudson and Charney Goldman Precious Offerings: Dressing Devotional Statues in Medieval England - Maren Clegg Hyer Dressing the Earth: Eleventh-century Garb in the Exultet Roll of Bari - Lucia Sinisi Dress, Disguise, and Shape-Shifting in Nibelungenlied and Volsunga Saga - Michelle Nordtorp-Madson Survival, Recovery, Restoration, Re-creation: the Long Life of Medieval Garments - Elizabeth Coatsworth Coping with Connoisseurship: Issues in Attribution and Purpose raised by an Indo-Portuguese "Vestment" in the Metropolitan Museum of Art - Lisa Evans Refashioning St. Edward: Clothing and Textiles - Gale R. Owen-Crocker "Dressed to Kill:" The Clothing of Christ's Tormentors in an Illustrated Polish Devotional Manuscript - John Block Friedman Treason and Clothing in Sixteenth-Century England: The Case of Gregory "Sweetlips" Botolf - Melanie Schuessler Bond The Lexicon of Apparel in the Pastourelle Corpus: Refashioning Shepherdesses - Sarah-Grace Heller The Real Unreal: Chrétien de Troyes's Fashioning of Erec and Enide - Monica L. Wright Regulating and Refashioning Dress: Sumptuary Legislation and its Enforcement in Fourteenth- and Early Fifteenth-Century Lucca - Christine E. Meek Nuns' Clothing and Ornaments in English and Northern French Ecclesiastical Regulations - Thomas M. Izbicki Clothing Dependents: Dress of Children and Servants in the Petre Household, 1586-1587 - Drea Leed

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Book SynopsisAn examination of the fabrics, garments and cloth of the Iberian Middle Ages, bringing out in particular the international context. The Medieval Iberian Peninsula, encompassing various territories which make up present-day Spain and Portugal, was an ethnic and religious melting pot, comprising Christian, Jewish and Muslim communities, each contributing to a vibrant textile economy. They were also defined and distinguished by the material culture of clothing and dress, partly dictated by religious and cultural tradition, partly imposed by rulers anxious to avoid cross-ethnic relationships considered undesirable. Nevertheless, textiles, especially magnificent Islamic silks, crossed these barriers. The essays in this volume offer the first full analysis of Iberian textiles from the period, drawing on both material remains and historical documents, supported by evidence from contemporary artwork. Chapters cover surviving textiles, many of them magnificent silks; textile industries and trade; court dress and its use as a language of power and patronage; the vast market in utilitarian textiles for lower-status clothing and furnishings; and Muslim and Jewish dress. It also considers Arabic and Jewish texts as sources of information on textiles and the Arabic garment-names which crossed into Spanish. Particular emphasis is given to the the different ethnicities of Iberia and their influences on the use and trade of garments (both precious and common-place) and textiles.Table of ContentsIntroduction María Barrigón, Naḥum Ben-Yehuda, Gale R. Owen-Crocker and Joana Sequeira I The Historical Background/Context 1 From the Five Kingdoms to the Hispanic Monarchy: Political Structures, Ideology and Historical Development in the Medieval Iberian Peninsula (1157-1504) David Nogales Rincón II Techniques, Trade and Industry 2 Textile Techniques in the Iberian Peninsula (Thirteenth to Fourteenth Centuries) María Barrigón 3 Cloth Tade in the Iberian Kingdoms during the Late Middle Ages Máximo Diago Hernando 4 Textiles in the Crown of Aragon: Production, Commerce, Consumption Germán Navarro Espinach 5 The Textile Industry in al-Andalus Adela Fábregas 6 Flax, Wool and Silk: Textile Industries in Medieval Portugal Joana Sequeira III Social Context 7 Dress as a Language: A Survey of ArabicTexts from al-Andalus Manuela Marín 8 Muslim Dress in Medieval Portugal: Textual Evidence in the Context of the Iberian Peninsula †Maria Filomena Lopes de Barros 9 Medieval Castilian Garments and their Arabic Names Dolores Serrano-Niza 10 Clothing, Furnishings and Ceremonies at the Castilian Court (c. 1214−c. 1332) María Barrigón 11 Fabrics and Attire at the Court of Navarre in the Second Half of the Fourteenth Century Merche Osés Urricelqui 12 Textile Production and Jewish Clothing in the Iberian Peninsula: Characteristics, Customs and Differences between Catalan and Other Jewish Communities Esperança Valls Pujol 13 Silk as Reflected in Medieval Iberian Jewish Literature Naḥum Ben-Yehuda 14 The Garment and the Difference: The Attire of Portuguese Jews and New Christians (Conversos) during the Thirteenth to Fifteenth centuries Susana Bastos Mateus Index of Persons and Places Index of Textile terms

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Book SynopsisWe all make choices every day about which shoes to wear, but why do we choose the shoes we do? Organised around four main types — boots, sneakers, high heels and sandals — Shoes: The Meaning of Style explores the history of shoes and how different types of footwear have come to mean different things about the people who wear them. Along the way Elizabeth Semmelhack reveals the anecdotes and scandals, successes and failures, dislikes and obsessions of the makers, wearers and observers who helped to create the movements and fashions of footwear. Beautifully illustrated throughout, Shoes is a thoroughly surprising history of an everyday item that will appeal not only to followers of fashion, but to those interested in social history and identity.'Elizabeth Semmelhack's work sheds a new and fascinating light on footwear, looking at its social significance and how it has changed over the years. It is an absolute must for those interested in the subject.' — Manolo Blahnik'This book shows us all the fashion, art, and design that allowed shoes to become a powerful cultural phenomenon. From the feet to the street to the commercial mountain peaks!' — Darryl 'dmc' McDaniels

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Book SynopsisAt the end of the Middle Ages, a group of hatmakers from the Low Countries migrated across the North Sea to London. These men brought with them new skills and technologies, unknown to English artisans, becoming the first to manufacture brimmed felts hats in England. However, though their wares were immediately popular with English consumers, from courtiers to ordinary people, they faced an economic environment in London that restricted and sometimes completely disallowed the production and retail of their goods. In the early years of the sixteenth century, the hatmakers' desire to remain independent from regulation and governance by London civic guilds led to their formation of a craft association of their own. The Hatmakers' fraternity of St James operated for about a decade, until in 1511 the royal council mandated their amalgamation with and subordination to the powerful London Haberdashers' Company. In their short period of independence, the Hatmakers' guild wrote bilingual ordinances, in English and Dutch, regulating the craft of hatmaking in London. The small parchment booklet in which they wrote the ordinances, now housed in the London Guildhall Library, contains more than a simple list of craft rules: it reveals how these Dutch craftsmen negotiated their immigrant lives in both the specifics of their artisanal practice and the broader social and linguistic realities of their daily interactions. This book, uniting historical and philological approaches, uncovers the remarkable lives and writings of these tradesmen, showing how they adapted to their new environment and reacted to the challenges they faced. It also presents a modern edition of the texts of the Hatmakers' guild book. Open Access to this volume will be available under the Creative Commons License: CC BY-NC-NDTable of ContentsPreface Part I: Study 1. Citizen Guilds, Stranger Artisans, and the Hat Trade in London, circa 1500 2. The Formation of the Hatmaker's Fraternity 3. The Hatmakers and the 1511 Agreement 4. The Manuscript 5. The Linguistic Interest of the Bilingual Ordinances Conclusion Part II: Texts Editorial Conventions The Bilingual Ordinances of the Hatmakers The Agreement with the Haberdashers The Oath of the Wardens of the Haberdashers Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisThe best new research on medieval clothing and textiles, drawing from a range of disciplines. This year's volume focuses largely on the British Isles, with papers on dress terms in the Middle English Pearl; a study of a thirteenth-century royal bride's trousseau, based on unpublished documents concerning King HenryIII's Wardrobe; an investigation into the "open surcoat" referenced in the multilingual texts of late medieval England; and, based on customs accounts, a survey of cloth exports from late medieval London and the merchants who profited from them. Commercial trading of cloth is also the subject of a study of fifteenth-century brokers' books, revealing details of types, designs, and regulation of the famous silks from Lucca, Italy. Another paper focuseson art, reconsidering the incidence of frilled veils in the Low Countries and adopting an innovative means of analysis to question the chronology, geographical diversity, and social context of this style. Robin Netherton is a professional editor and a researcher/lecturer on the interpretation of medieval European dress; Gale R. Owen-Crocker is Professor of Anglo-Saxon Culture at the University of Manchester. Contributors: Benjamin L.Wild, Isis Sturtewagen, Kimberly Jack, Mark Chambers, Eleanor Quinton, John Oldland, Christine MeekTrade ReviewThe eclectic but loosely connected contents of Volume 7 do expand our knowledge of the vagaries and importance of cloth and clothing to the medieval world; as such their appeal goes far beyond the confines of textile historians. * JOURNAL OF MEDIEVAL ARCHAEOLOGY *Table of ContentsPreface The Empress's New Clothes: A Rotulus Pannorum of Isabella, Sister of King Henry III, Bride of Emperor Frederick II - Benjamin L. Wild Unveiling Social Fashion Patterns: A Case Study of Frilled Veils in the Low Countries [1200-1500] - Isis Sturtewagen What Is the Pearl-Maiden Wearing, and Why? - Kimberly Jack "Hys surcote was ouert": The "Open Surcoat" in Late Medieval British Texts - Mark Chambers London Merchants' Cloth Exports, 1350-1500 - Eleanor Quinton and John Oldland Laboreria Sete: Design and Production of Lucchese Silks in the Late Fourteenth and Early Fifteenth Centuries - Christine Meek Recent Books of Interest Contents of Previous Volumes

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Book SynopsisThe best new research on medieval clothing and textiles, drawing from a range of disciplines. The usual wide range of approaches to garments and fabrics appears in this tenth volume. Three chapters focus on practical matters: a description of the medieval vestments surviving at Castel Sant'Elia in Italy; a survey of the spread of silk cultivation to Europe before 1300; and a documentation of medieval colour terminology for desirable cloth. Two address social significance: the practice of seizing clothing from debtors in fourteenth-century Lucca, and the transformation of the wardrobe of Margaret Tudor, daughter of King Henry VII, upon her marriage to the king of Scotland. Two delve into artistic symbolism: a consideration of female headdresses carved at St Frideswide's Priory in Oxford, and a discussion of how Anglo-Saxon artists used soft furnishings to echo emotional aspects of narratives. Meanwhile, in an exercise in historiography, there is an examination of the life of Mrs. A.G.I. Christie, author of the landmark Medieval English Embroidery. ROBIN NETHERTON is a professional editor and a researcher/lecturer on the interpretation of medieval European dress; GALE R. OWEN-CROCKER is Professor of Anglo-Saxon Culture at the University of Manchester. Contributors: Michelle L. Beer, Elizabeth Coatsworth, Valija Evalds, Christine Meek, Maureen C. Miller, Christopher J. Monk, Lisa Monnas, Rebecca Woodward WendelkenTrade ReviewThe contributors to this volume focus on special and also general aspects and demonstrate through their excellent research and clear presentation of the material how much...topics pertaining to textiles allow us to understand many different aspects of culture and society at large. * MEDIAEVISTIK *Table of ContentsBehind the Curtains, Under the Covers, Inside the Tent: Textile Items and Narrative Strategies in Anglo-Saxon Old Testament Art - Christopher J Monk Some Medieval Colour Terms for Textiles - Lisa Monnas Wefts and Worms: The Spread of Sericulture and Silk Weaving in the West before 1300 - Rebecca Woodward Wendelken The Liturgical Vestments of Castel Sant'Elia: Their Historical Significance and Current Condition - Maureen C. Miller Clothing Distrained for Debt in the Court of Merchants of Lucca in the Late Fourteenth Century - Christine Meek Sacred or Profane? The Horned Headdresses of St. Frideswide's Priory - Valija Evalds "Translating" a Queen: Material Culture and the Creation of Margaret Tudor as Queen of Scots - "A formidable undertaking": Mrs. A. G. I. Christie and English Medieval Embroidery - Elizabeth Coatsworth Recent Books of Interest

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Book SynopsisTo call Coco Chanel a fashion designer hardly captures her social and cultural significance. An iconoclastic entrepreneur, she rebelled against and manipulated gender expectations of her time. With her famous little black dress, her loose jersey sweaters belted jauntily at the waist, her svelte unadorned gowns, Chanel changed women's silhouettes, and she became known as a champion of women's freedom. Chanel, legend has it, changed not only the shape of clothing, but the narrative of women's lives. From 1913, when she first opened a hat shop in the resort town of Deauville, until her death in 1971, Chanel sold more than clothing, accessories and the phenomenally successful perfume, Chanel No. 5: she sold a myth that became as attractive for many women as her coveted outfits. Linda Simon teases apart that myth that Chanel and her public collaborated to create, to explore its contradictions: a self-proclaimed recluse who emerged as one of the most spectacular personalities of her time; a brilliant businesswoman who signed away ninety percent of her company; a genius who claimed she was nothing more than an artisan. She examines the world Chanel both reflected and shaped, setting her life and work in a broad context of women's history in France and America, from before the First World War up through the profound social changes of the late 1960s. Drawing upon rich archival sources, Simon provides a lively, clear-eyed biography of a woman whose influence and legend transcend the world of fashion.Trade Review'For those who want an up-to-date bio that's swift and savvy, there is Linda Simon's Chanel. It's a slim volume, but even here we get details we don't get elsewhere, including a full chapter on the musical "Coco," which opened on Broadway in 1969 starring Katharine Hepburn (tellingly, Chanel's first choice for the role was the much younger Hepburn: Audrey).' - Wall Street Journal

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Book SynopsisFashionable Masculinities explores the expression of masculinities through constructions of fashion, identity, style and appearance as the third decade of the new millennium begins: a contradictory and precarious moment when masculinities are defined by protests and pandemics whilst being problematized across class, ethnicity, race, gender and sexuality. Whilst a majority of men might still define themselves as ‘traditional,’ post-millennials are now talking about how they envision a future without gender boundaries and borders. Rather than being defined as a gender, masculinity has now become a style that can be worn and performed as traditional and normative codes of masculinity are modulated and manipulated. This volume includes original essays on musical pop sensation Harry Styles, rapper and producer “Puff Daddy” Sean Combs, lumbersexuals, spornosexuals, sexy daddies, and aging cool black daddies. Bringing together contributions from leading scholars, this book interrogates and challenges the meaning of masculinities and the ways that they are experienced and lived. Trade Review"It is not just queers, pimp daddies, and lumbersexuals who rendezvous on this volume; it is a whole spectrum of masculinities: blak-indigenous men, gym bros, ageing action heroes, retro hipsters, Harry, and gen-Z influencers. Masculinities are legion: fluid, complex, and poised to forever resist essentializing binaries and gender signifiers. This timely volume, written by top experts in the field, offers a thorough insight into the design, advertising, retail, and consumption of fashionable masculinities." -- José Blanco F. * Chair of Fashion, Dominican University, Illinois *"This text represents the future of men’s fashion studies. It symbolizes a pivotal turn for understanding this discipline. The contributors take us on a journey through men’s fashion from the beginning into contemporary style. This book is crucial for anyone interested in men’s appearances, fashion, and lifestyles." -- Joseph H. Hancock, II * professor, Drexel University, Philadelphia *"It is not just queers, pimp daddies, and lumbersexuals who rendezvous on this volume; it is a whole spectrum of masculinities: blak-indigenous men, gym bros, ageing action heroes, retro hipsters, Harry, and gen-Z influencers. Masculinities are legion: fluid, complex, and poised to forever resist essentializing binaries and gender signifiers. This timely volume, written by top experts in the field, offers a thorough insight into the design, advertising, retail, and consumption of fashionable masculinities." -- José Blanco F. * Chair of Fashion, Dominican University, Illinois *"This text represents the future of men’s fashion studies. It symbolizes a pivotal turn for understanding this discipline. The contributors take us on a journey through men’s fashion from the beginning into contemporary style. This book is crucial for anyone interested in men’s appearances, fashion, and lifestyles." -- Joseph H. Hancock, II * professor, Drexel University, Philadelphia *"Contributors include some of the best minds in their field ... and the book’s 16 chapters are accessible to anyone interested in gender and clothing. ...Fashionable Masculinities picks apart our understanding of manhood, showing how 'masculinity has become a style that can be worn, assumed — or abjured.'" -- Derek Guy * Vulture.com & New York Magazine *Table of ContentsForewordChristopher BrewardIntroductionVicki Karaminas, Adam Geczy, and Pamela Church Gibson1 Harry Styles: Fashion’s Gender ChangelingVicki Karaminas and Justine Taylor2 Puff Daddy’s Mogul Style: Penis in Furs or Surface Tensions?Nigel Lezama3 Daddy Cool: Aging Black Male Bodies and Embodied Stylin’Michael McMillan4 Unisex and Individuation: Contemporary Russian Fashion and Men’s (Self)-StylingVlad Strukov5 Spectacularizing the Male Body: Fashionable Physiques in the Age of InstagramJay McCauley Bowstead6 One Sexy Daddy: Desirable Dad “Bods” and the Popular Romance NovelJonathan A. Allan7 The Bodyclad Cinematic Hero: Aging, Masculinity, and Technological MediationAdam Geczy8 The Rise of the Bottom: Counterdiscourse to Challenge Heteronormativity within the Gay CommunityAndrew Reilly9 Unfashionable Goodes: The Wrong Kind of Blak and the Scandalization of Indigenous Masculinities in Settler-AustraliaBarry Judd and Nikita Vanderbyl10 The Rough and the Smooth Revisited: Masculinity, Fashion, and James Bond for a New MillenniumPamela Church Gibson11 “Coming Out” and Fitting In: The Role of Dress and Style in Fashioning Gay Men’s Identities in the New MillenniumShaun Cole12 Crip Masculinities and Everyday Dress: Intersectional Narratives of Imagination, Access, and OwnershipBen Barry13 Dandyism Revisited: From the English Gent to the SapeurOlga Vainshtein14 Beard-Grooming Brands and Products as Representations of MasculinityVictor Vey15 Gent-rifying the Stylish Neighborhood: An Examination of Retail Accommodation for the Asian Urban Male ConsumerAnne Peirson-Smith and Jennifer Craik16 A Vision of a Modern DandyJulio Mompó with Olga VainshteinAcknowledgmentsBibliographyNotes on ContributorsIndex

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Book SynopsisFashionable Masculinities explores the expression of masculinities through constructions of fashion, identity, style and appearance as the third decade of the new millennium begins: a contradictory and precarious moment when masculinities are defined by protests and pandemics whilst being problematized across class, ethnicity, race, gender and sexuality. Whilst a majority of men might still define themselves as ‘traditional,’ post-millennials are now talking about how they envision a future without gender boundaries and borders. Rather than being defined as a gender, masculinity has now become a style that can be worn and performed as traditional and normative codes of masculinity are modulated and manipulated. This volume includes original essays on musical pop sensation Harry Styles, rapper and producer “Puff Daddy” Sean Combs, lumbersexuals, spornosexuals, sexy daddies, and aging cool black daddies. Bringing together contributions from leading scholars, this book interrogates and challenges the meaning of masculinities and the ways that they are experienced and lived. Trade Review"It is not just queers, pimp daddies, and lumbersexuals who rendezvous on this volume; it is a whole spectrum of masculinities: blak-indigenous men, gym bros, ageing action heroes, retro hipsters, Harry, and gen-Z influencers. Masculinities are legion: fluid, complex, and poised to forever resist essentializing binaries and gender signifiers. This timely volume, written by top experts in the field, offers a thorough insight into the design, advertising, retail, and consumption of fashionable masculinities." -- José Blanco F. * Chair of Fashion, Dominican University, Illinois *"This text represents the future of men’s fashion studies. It symbolizes a pivotal turn for understanding this discipline. The contributors take us on a journey through men’s fashion from the beginning into contemporary style. This book is crucial for anyone interested in men’s appearances, fashion, and lifestyles." -- Joseph H. Hancock, II * professor, Drexel University, Philadelphia *"It is not just queers, pimp daddies, and lumbersexuals who rendezvous on this volume; it is a whole spectrum of masculinities: blak-indigenous men, gym bros, ageing action heroes, retro hipsters, Harry, and gen-Z influencers. Masculinities are legion: fluid, complex, and poised to forever resist essentializing binaries and gender signifiers. This timely volume, written by top experts in the field, offers a thorough insight into the design, advertising, retail, and consumption of fashionable masculinities." -- José Blanco F. * Chair of Fashion, Dominican University, Illinois *"This text represents the future of men’s fashion studies. It symbolizes a pivotal turn for understanding this discipline. The contributors take us on a journey through men’s fashion from the beginning into contemporary style. This book is crucial for anyone interested in men’s appearances, fashion, and lifestyles." -- Joseph H. Hancock, II * professor, Drexel University, Philadelphia *"Contributors include some of the best minds in their field ... and the book’s 16 chapters are accessible to anyone interested in gender and clothing. ...Fashionable Masculinities picks apart our understanding of manhood, showing how 'masculinity has become a style that can be worn, assumed — or abjured.'" -- Derek Guy * Vulture.com & New York Magazine *Table of ContentsForewordChristopher BrewardIntroductionVicki Karaminas, Adam Geczy, and Pamela Church Gibson1 Harry Styles: Fashion’s Gender ChangelingVicki Karaminas and Justine Taylor2 Puff Daddy’s Mogul Style: Penis in Furs or Surface Tensions?Nigel Lezama3 Daddy Cool: Aging Black Male Bodies and Embodied Stylin’Michael McMillan4 Unisex and Individuation: Contemporary Russian Fashion and Men’s (Self)-StylingVlad Strukov5 Spectacularizing the Male Body: Fashionable Physiques in the Age of InstagramJay McCauley Bowstead6 One Sexy Daddy: Desirable Dad “Bods” and the Popular Romance NovelJonathan A. Allan7 The Bodyclad Cinematic Hero: Aging, Masculinity, and Technological MediationAdam Geczy8 The Rise of the Bottom: Counterdiscourse to Challenge Heteronormativity within the Gay CommunityAndrew Reilly9 Unfashionable Goodes: The Wrong Kind of Blak and the Scandalization of Indigenous Masculinities in Settler-AustraliaBarry Judd and Nikita Vanderbyl10 The Rough and the Smooth Revisited: Masculinity, Fashion, and James Bond for a New MillenniumPamela Church Gibson11 “Coming Out” and Fitting In: The Role of Dress and Style in Fashioning Gay Men’s Identities in the New MillenniumShaun Cole12 Crip Masculinities and Everyday Dress: Intersectional Narratives of Imagination, Access, and OwnershipBen Barry13 Dandyism Revisited: From the English Gent to the SapeurOlga Vainshtein14 Beard-Grooming Brands and Products as Representations of MasculinityVictor Vey15 Gent-rifying the Stylish Neighborhood: An Examination of Retail Accommodation for the Asian Urban Male ConsumerAnne Peirson-Smith and Jennifer Craik16 A Vision of a Modern DandyJulio Mompó with Olga VainshteinAcknowledgmentsBibliographyNotes on ContributorsIndex

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Book SynopsisEver wonder why so many stars and featured players, male or female, in movies of Hollywood’s “Golden Age” look like they just stepped out of a beauty parlor even if the story places them in a jungle, a hospital bed, or the ancient past? All for Beauty examines how and why makeup and hairdressing evolved as crafts designed partly to maintain the white flawlessness of men and women as a value in the studio era. The book pays particular attention to the labor force, exploring the power and influence of cosmetics inventor and manufacturer Max Factor and the Westmore dynasty of makeup artists but also the contributions of others, many of them women, whose names are far less known. At the end of the complex, exciting, and at times dismaying chronicle, it is likely that readers will never again watch Hollywood films without thinking about the roles of makeup and hairdressing in creating both fictional characters and stars as emblems of an idealized and undeniably mesmerizing visual perfection.Trade Review"Adrienne McLean’s engaging All for Beauty gives us a peek under the powder, lipstick, beard, and toupee, to examine the craft and labor politics of makeup and hairdressing in the studio era. This impeccably researched and argued book is a must read for anyone interested in the Hollywood studio system, film acting, stardom, or beauty culture!" -- Mary Desjardins * author of Recycled Stars: Female Film Stardom in the Age of Television and Video *“McLean combines extensive research, keen insight, detailed analysis of stars and films, and an enjoyable way with words to give readers an important overview of the history, politics, and aesthetics of 'beauty makeup' during the glory days of Hollywood cinema. I devoured it, and so will you.” -- Sean Griffin * editor of What Dreams Were Made Of: Movie Stars of the 1940s *"All for Beauty reveals a treasure trove of research in this absorbing history of how beauty makeup and hairdressing became essential to Hollywood filmmaking and its construction of stardom. Adrienne McLean's tangible passion for her project makes this a gift to Hollywood historians." -- Karen McNally * author of The Stardom Film: Creating the Hollywood Fairy Tale *"Adrienne McLean’s engaging All for Beauty gives us a peek under the powder, lipstick, beard, and toupee, to examine the craft and labor politics of makeup and hairdressing in the studio era. This impeccably researched and argued book is a must read for anyone interested in the Hollywood studio system, film acting, stardom, or beauty culture!" -- Mary Desjardins * author of Recycled Stars: Female Film Stardom in the Age of Television and Video *“McLean combines extensive research, keen insight, detailed analysis of stars and films, and an enjoyable way with words to give readers an important overview of the history, politics, and aesthetics of 'beauty makeup' during the glory days of Hollywood cinema. I devoured it, and so will you.” -- Sean Griffin * editor of What Dreams Were Made Of: Movie Stars of the 1940s *"All for Beauty reveals a treasure trove of research in this absorbing history of how beauty makeup and hairdressing became essential to Hollywood filmmaking and its construction of stardom. Adrienne McLean's tangible passion for her project makes this a gift to Hollywood historians." -- Karen McNally * author of The Stardom Film: Creating the Hollywood Fairy Tale *Table of ContentsIntroduction: Art and Science in the Service of Loveliness 1. Makeup and Hairdressing as Studio Crafts: The Silent Period 2. The Classical Period: Craft Identity and the Labor Force 3. The Classical Period: Department Practices and the Commerce of Expertise 4. Cosmetics, Coiffures, and Characterization Epilogue: Trophy Faces Appendix Acknowledgments Notes Index

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Book SynopsisTwenty-first century fashion practice has become increasingly borderless and diverse in the digital era, calling into question the very boundaries that define fashion in the Western cultural context. Borderless Fashion Practice: Contemporary Fashion in the Metamodern Age principally engages the work of four fashion designers -- Virgil Abloh, Aitor Throup, Iris Van Herpen, and Eckhaus Latta -- whose work intersects with other creative disciplines such as art, technology, science, architecture, and graphic design. They do their work in what Vanessa Gerrie calls the metamodern age -- the time and place where the polarization between the modern and the postmodern collapses. Used as a framework to understand the current Western cultural zeitgeist, Gerrie's exploration of the work of contemporary practitioners and theorists finds blurred borders and seeks to blur them further, to the point of erasure.Trade Review"A well-balanced and highly informative read. The first book-length study of metamodernism in fashion, Borderless Fashion Practice makes a significant contribution to our understanding of one of the most important trends in the contemporary fashion industry. Especially commendable is Vanessa Gerrie’s diverse choice of designers who, though very different from each other, all illustrate the practice of 'borderless fashion.'"— Graham H. Roberts, author of Consumer Culture, Branding and Identity in the New Russia: From Five-year Plan to 4x4 "Gerrie’s concept of “borderless fashion” demonstrates how contemporary fashion practices include key aspects of our society and culture that go far beyond fashion itself."— Patrizia Calefato, author of Fashion as Cultural Translation: Signs, Images, NarrativesTable of ContentsList of Illustrations Introduction 1 On Metamodernism 2 Fashion in the Academy 3 Fashion’s Democratization 4 Collaboration and Experimentation between Fashion and Art 5 Fashion as a Concept 6 Virgil Abloh’s Democratic Fashion Practice 7 Aitor Throup’s Divergent Design 8 Iris van Herpen’s “New Couture” 9 Eckhaus Latta’s Community-Led Brand Conclusion Acknowledgments Notes Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisFrom the 1920s to the 1960s, René Hubert (1895–1976) belonged to the crème de la crème of costume designers. He designed costumes for stars such as Tallulah Bankhead, Ingrid Bergman, Marlon Brando, Yul Brynner, Marlene Dietrich, Vivien Leigh, Laurence Olivier, and Marilyn Monroe in one of her first roles. Shirley Temple danced the hula in the film Curly Top wearing a grass skirt ensemble designed by Hubert; he was especially closely associated with Gloria Swanson, who encouraged him to relocate to Los Angeles when she met him in Paris in 1924. Hubert consented, and soon found himself working with directors René Clair, Alfred Hitchcock and Otto Preminger, elevating their stars with his flair for opulent color and elegant lines. Hubert’s international reputation helped him to win commissions in his native Switzerland, most notably for the Swiss National Exhibition in 1939, for Swissair uniforms and aircraft interiors, and for various theaters and textile companies. This richly illustrated publication compiles sketches, costume photography, stage photos and film stills of Hubert’s work. Experts from both sides of the Atlantic reflect on his multifaceted oeuvre at his numerous workplaces in Switzerland, Europe and the US. Excerpts from his unpublished memoirs provide a personal view of his life and the glamor of the era.

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Book SynopsisSelbstverständlich is the German expression which, in the mind of Albert Kriemler, creative director at AKRIS, best encapsulates the aesthetic ideal that he wishes to accomplish with his fashion designs. For Kriemler, the embodiment of natural modernity is selbstverständlich, evident in the wearer and also the use and functionality of the clothes. Taking the collections as waymarks, the book encompasses the entire one hundred years of AKRIS history and its location in St. Gallen, Switzerland. The unsurpassed quality of the fabrics and craftsmanship employed in the creation of Albert Kriemler’s art-inspired designs is dedicated to the woman of today and tomorrow. She comes alive in her clothes, and with her body language and presence imbues them with identity. Jessica Iredale describes the uniqueness and forward-looking nature of AKRIS. Iwan Baan, photographer, illuminates with his photo essays the hometown and the inside world of the brand. The meticulous book design confirms the AKRIS mindset: selbstver- ständlich, naturally.

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Book SynopsisThis pioneering work traces the history and evolution of the textiles of Myanmar (Burma) made and used by the Burman (Bama) ethnic majority. Written accessibly, it covers the importance of textiles in many contexts as well as changes and innovation brought about by trade and conflict with neighboring states, British colonization, postwar isolation, and recent “open-door” policies. In addition to visiting the major textile centers, Sylvia Fraser-Lu ventured into the more remote areas of the Burman heartland to garner information on lesser-known textiles and those made by minorities. Profusely illustrated with on-site and archival photographs of weavers and heirloom textiles, as well as with diagrams and sketches, this book will be an important reference for textile scholars and art historians and for those interested in Burman culture.Trade Review"A new work on Myanmar's textile culture by Sylvia Fraser-Lu, arguably the foremost specialist on the subject, is exciting news for scholars and collectors of Southeast Asian textiles alike." * Asian Textiles *

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Book SynopsisNew Fashion Boutique Design is a practical and inspirational illustrated volume that gathers examples of some of the most exclusive boutiques and stores in the world and introduces the latest trends in shop design, an area where fashion and creativity merge to deliver a unique shopping and branding experience. From luxury designer stores and exclusive boutiques to shoe shops, this comprehensive volume provides useful insights into international retail architecture and comprehensive information on the featured projects. Fashion stores are no longer mere places that one enters simply with the intention of purchasing products. Shops have also become venues for events, stages for exciting performances, and sometimes even landmarks. Likewise, retail spaces have become statements that celebrate designer labels and their products and offer multiple opportunities to engage with the brand and its values. A range of these grand stages has been captured in New Fashion Boutique Design, which offers ideas, solutions, and different approaches to product presentation across its 240 colorful and inspiring pages.

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Book SynopsisThis title enforces in a showcase of examples with a retro-inspired flavour updated to the latest trends in the world of twenty-first century design. This book features a series of geometric elements. It explains the relationship and language between geometry and graphics using real life successful case study examples such as packaging, street signs, logos or stationery, used in a wide variety of multimedia projects. Colour throughout

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Book SynopsisOffers designers a vast collection of inspiring and innovative graphic works from the real world. This book emphasizes on fashion from t-shirt graphics, to sneakers, and baseball caps. It features trends as well as graphics that endure the test of time.

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Book SynopsisUn análisis en profundidad de las ideas clave que cambiaron la forma de vestir, desde mediados del siglo xx hasta hoy, acompañado de un estudio de las prendas de ropa más emblemáticas, cómo se llevaron, qué surgió de ellas, su trasfondo cultural, su acogida entre el público y su influencia en la moda actual. El armario moderno debe su desarrollo no solo a los diseñadores de París o de Milán, sino también a los grupos y a los movimientos que existen gracias a una apreciación compartida de la música, el deporte, a una cultura en concreto o a un determinado estilo que define una pertenencia. Estos estilos han cambiado la normativa establecida, han creado estereotipos, han conseguido expresar división social al tiempo que han unido a las personas, han comunicado, se han expandido por todo el mundo y, sobre todo, han transformado la forma de vestir de un amplio público. El concepto de moda urbana, lejos de quedar atrás, probablemente es más actual que nunca. Antaño, la expresión hacía referencia a las modas populares no dictadas por las pasarelas, una forma de vestir que expresaba la personalidad de aquellos a quienes la sociedad no consideraba modernos, sino algo mejor, con estilo. Hoy, se ha extendido la idea de que el verdadero estilo es el que se encuentra a pie de calle: las pasarelas se inspiran en él y lo reinventan en una versión más glamurosa. Dados los profundos cambios sociales y tecnológicos de inicios del siglo xxi, la proliferación de la moda urbana y la moda destinada al mercado de masas solo puede ir en aumento. Internet y la omnipresente fotografía digital hacen posible mostrar rápidamente a todo el mundo estilos que antes eran muy reducidos, locales y casi de culto. Además, desde el punto de vista tecnológico, la agilidad del muestreo, la rapidez de los sistemas de producción y la mano de obra barata permiten a las marcas del mercado de masas imitar la prenda más actual y extenderla por el mundo en cuestión de días. Así, las tendencias se desarrollan, expanden, culminan y desaparecen más rápido que nunca en la historia del sector.

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a huge range and FREE tracked UK delivery on ALL orders.

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a huge range and FREE tracked UK delivery on ALL orders.

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a huge range and FREE tracked UK delivery on ALL orders.

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a huge range and FREE tracked UK delivery on ALL orders.

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