Fashion and textile design Books

Book SynopsisJustine De Young is Associate Professor and Chairperson, History of Art, at the Fashion Institute of Technology, State University of New York (US). She previously taught art and fashion history at Harvard, Wellesley, Lesley, and Northwestern universities in the US. She is editor of Fashion in European Art (Bloomsbury, 2019) and the founding editor of the Fashion History Timeline website.

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Book SynopsisBetween 1974 and 1989, significant changes were taking place in the lives of Singaporean women and in their local fashion industry. These shifts were not only reflected in but actively shaped by the magazine Her World.In Her World, Women and Fashion in Singapore, Nadya Wang uses dress as a lens through which to view fragments of the magazine over 15 years. Advocating for a new and decentred understanding of the evolution of the Singapore woman, Wang's writing also traces the creation of a fashion industry that pivoted from seeking validation from global fashion cities to establishing itself as the lead of a Southeast Asian fashion community.Visual analysis of archival materials is combined with oral history interviews to demonstrate how the women of Singapore engaged with local and global ideas, fashion and beauty commodities, and imagery of models and beauty queens in their self-fashioning. Challenging existing understandings of their agency, th

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Book SynopsisJudith Beyer is a fashion scholar and educator. Her research focuses on the intersections of fashion, culture, and identity, particularly gender fluidity and masculinities in contemporary fashion design. She has published in several journals, including Fashion, Style and Popular Culture, ZoneModa and the Journal of Bodies, Sexualities, and Masculinities.

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Book SynopsisBrenda Polan is a fashion writer, editor, lecturer and academic. She was Fashion Editor and Women's Page Editor of The Guardian and has written for all Britain's major newspapers and many magazines. She was formerly Programme Director (Media) at London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London. Roger Tredre is Course Leader for the MA in Fashion Communication, at Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London. Prior to his academic career, he worked in newspaper journalism and was the first Editor-in-Chief of WGSN, the online fashion trends and research business. He has consulted widely for many leading fashion brands.

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Book SynopsisRegina A. Root is Full Professor of Modern Languages & Literatures at William & Mary, USA. She is an international expert in participatory design and cultural production, having authored, edited and co-edited works like The Latin American Fashion Reader (Bloomsbury, 2005), Couture and Consensus (2010), The Handbook of Fashion Studies (Bloomsbury, 2013), among others. She is co-editor, with Hazel Clark, of the Bloomsbury Fashion In Action series. Stephanie N. Saunders is Associate Professor of Spanish at Lyon College, USA. She is the author of Fashion, Gender and Agency in Latin American and Spanish Literature (2021).

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Book SynopsisPetra Zeller Dotlacilová holds a PhD in Dance Studies from the Academy of Performing Arts in Prague, Czech Republic, as well as a PhD in Theatre Studies from Stockholm University, Sweden. In her research, she specializes on European dance history and theatrical costume of 16th to 18th century. In particular, she explores aesthetic and material properties of costumes, international transfers in design and relations between garments and movement practices.

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Book SynopsisPierre-Yves Donzé is Professor of Business History at Osaka University, Japan, and a visiting professor at the University of Fribourg, Switzerland. His research focuses on the business history of creative industries (watchmaking, fashion, and luxury) and multinational enterprises. He is the author of numerous books, edited volumes and academic articles published in English, French, German, Italian and Japanese.Harry Guhl is a Swiss investor and expert in market positioning for horological start-ups. Over the past two decades, he has been instrumental in reviving historic watch brands. Beyond the watch industry, he has a distinguished background in the art world, having served as the global head of VIP relations at Art Basel and as the principal art consultant for Rolls-Royce Motor Cars.

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Book SynopsisWe may not often think of our clothes as having a function beyond covering our naked bodies and keeping us a little safer from the elements. But to discount the enormous influence of clothing on anything from economic cycles to the future of water scarcity is to ignore the greater meaning of the garments we put on our backs. Disrobed vividly considers the role that clothing plays in everything from natural disasters to climate change to terrorism to geopolitics to agribusiness. Chapter by chapter, Tang takes the reader on an unusual journey, telling stories and asking questions that most consumers have never considered about their clothing. Why do banker's wives sell off their clothes and how does that presage a recession? How is clothing linked to ethanol and starvation on the African continent? Could RFID in clothing save the lives of millions of people in earthquakes around the world? This book takes an everyday item and considers it in a way that readers may not have previously thTrade ReviewCan what you wear save your life, keep you safe, or kill people across the world? Syl Tang shows that, sometimes, it does. You've never read a national security book quite like Disrobed. A fresh perspective about how our individual choices can radically upend societies on the other side of the globe. Do clothes reflect the jagged fault lines between civilizations? Tang's Disrobed makes a compelling case that it just might. -- Aki Peritz, former CIA analyst who tracked the strategy, leadership and international links of Al Qaeda in Iraq; senior fellow at George Washington University's Center for Cyber and Homeland Security; adjunct faculty member at American UniversitySyl Tang’s Disrobed is a powerful thought-starter that articulates the butterfly effect from the mundane to the crucial. The book unveils an undercurrent of what is happening on the other side of the globe and connects the dots to what is right in front of us. Tang uses non-partisan, fact-based occurrences in worldwide events to show us the power of micro-action, and the potential of clothing as a political tool and predictive instrument. -- Yann Marois, Chief Marketing Officer, Grey GooseOur clothes speak, consume, and even save the world in Syl Tang's fascinating and insightful research about fashion and how its much more than just threads. -- Jonathan Woetzel, director and senior partner, McKinsey Global Institute, McKinsey and Co.The theory of the interconnectedness of all things, seen through the lens of fashion. Great fun, but raising some important questions - like why my lucky cufflinks always work. -- Paul James, Global Marketing and Branding for Millennium Hotels and Resorts; former Global Brand Leader, Starwood Luxury HotelsThis book defines the bridge between the garment industry and world of finance, industries that most people truly do not understand. The financial markets such as investment, banking and insurance companies rely heavily on the above sources for revenue and investments. Disrobed is the book that will open your eyes to the dynamics of two powerful and profitable industries. -- Salvador Rozenberg, professor, New York University, Tandon School of Engineering, Department of Civil Engineering and Urban SystemsIt is truly amazing how you have linked the issue of clothing with the ecosystem and global challenges. By highlighting the different elements and sectors, I have no doubt the reader will come away fascinated and inspired, with insights of how clothing plays a pivotal role in our lives. Syl Tang's book eloquently describes clothing's effect on our limited natural resources and also provides brilliant ideas and solutions that people can implement to create positive social change in society. Disrobed provides a gateway for the reader to recognize the value of ethical and sustainable clothing which can also address the 2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development, and thus help our common humanity. -- Amir A. Dossal, president, Global Partnerships ForumDisrobed was one of the better nonfiction books I’ve read in some time and was so good that I recommended it as a strong resource to one of my students who happens to be a fashion major — I suspect the contents of this book will prove to offer a forward-thinking approach as he continues in degree program…. All in all, Disrobed is a rather succinct but no less potent argument about how fashion is itself an indicator of social mood and social evolution…. Highly recommended for anyone who enjoys an alternate paradigm on reading social changes, as it’s often true that the signs are right in front of us if only we’ll pay attention to them. Tang gives us the chance to do so, which could be very useful in what’s likely to be a rollercoaster of a world ahead. * Dwell in Possibility *

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Book SynopsisDeborah Schneiderman is Associate Professor of interior design in the School of Art & Design at the Pratt Institute, New York, USA, and a registered architect and LEED Accredited Professional. Alexa Griffith Winton is an independent design historian based in New York, where she is also a part time assistant professor at Parsons School of Constructed Environments, New York, USA.Trade ReviewThis adventurous and revelatory book ranges far beyond color, pattern, weave, and fashion to examine the changing definition of textiles. * Interior Design *These authoritative and accessible essays exemplify myriad ways in which textiles are increasingly inter-disciplinary in range and breadth. Together they contribute to the re-shaping and expanding of textiles, not only as a field which functions as an interface between the body and architecture but also as an exciting practice through which the ever-growing territory between human and post-human experiences are articulated. * Victoria Mitchell, Norwich University of the Arts, UK *The intersections and overlaps between the wrapping, lining and layering of our bodies and the environments that we occupy are explored in this innovative publication. An excellent and diverse range of writers and subject matter has ensured that issues around the ‘soft’ interior are now placed firmly at the forefront of thinking in this field of design. * Graeme Brooker, Middlesex University, UK *From cover up to a celebration of wealth, and from a display of conventional culture to cutting-edge experimentation, textiles have been hiding and displaying something for millennia. Whether it be the human body with clothes or the family in a carpeted, upholstered, and draped interior, cloth has been a malleable expression of our attitudes towards ourselves, others, and our environment. This sweeping array of essays traces the history of textiles on bodies and in interiors, and show how new technologies are liberating us to have a whole new relationship to that most flexible and sensual of human artifacts. * Aaron Betsky, Frank Lloyd Wright School of Architecture, USA *By concentrating both on innovations in new textile weaving and material techniques, and on extreme situations in which such advances can come to the fore, the editors promote a way of making space and form that elides the distinctions between those two as well as, at times, between inside and outside. -- Aaron Betsky, Taliesin West, USA * Architect Magazine *This book is for those of us who make things, and write and think through the interior, and is equal parts affirming and madding… Schneiderman and Winton have orchestrated a perfect storm of academic inclusiveness and possibly delightful contention. The editors question conventional definitions of textile, fabric, fabrication, surface, and soft construction by having a number of disparate voices in the text. This is a conversation – and possibly a debate – rather than a point of view. This conversation is the beginning of a vital endeavor to make space via a new definition of materiality at a crucial juncture in the history of interiors. * Interiors *Textile Technology and Design cuts across material and disciplinary distinctions making it required reading for anyone teaching or researching in the field of design. * Journal of Design History *Table of ContentsForeword by Susan Yelavich (Parsons The New School for Design, USA) Introduction, Alexa Griffith Winton (Parsons School of Constructed Environments, USA) and Deborah Schneiderman (Pratt Institute, USA) Part 1 Textile: Pliable Planes, Interior Applications and Fabrications 1 Interstitial Threads: The Body, Textiles and Interiority in Contemporary Interior Design, Alexa Griffith Winton (Parsons School of Constructed Environments, USA) 2 Soft Spaces: From the Textile-Clad Interior to Modern Interior Design, Anca I. Lasc (Pratt Institute, USA) 3 Felt and the Emerging Interior, Helene Renard (Virginia Tech School of Architecture and Design, USA) 4 Tailoring Second and Third Skins, Lois Weinthal (Toronto Metropolitan University, Canada) 5 Interview with Carol Bove (Artist, USA) Part 2 Mechanical and Digital Innovation in the Interior Realm 6 Ulterior Motives, Sarah Strauss (Pratt Institute, USA) 7 Topically Embedded: Surface as Graphic Material, Igor Siddiqui (The University of Texas at Austin, USA) 8 Materializing the Digital Realm: Textile of the Modern Age, Jonathon Anderson (University of Nevada Las Vegas, USA) and Laura Schoenthaler (North Carolina State University, USA) 9 Bespoke: Tailoring the Mass-Produced Prefabricated Interior, Deborah Schneiderman (Pratt Institute, USA) 10 Sensorial Space: Responsive Interiors Thru Smart Textiles, Margarita Benitez (Kent State University, USA) 11 Self-actuated Textiles, Interconnectivity and the Design of the Home as a More Sustainable Timescape, Aurélie Mossé (École Nationale Supérieure des Arts Décoratifs, France) 12 Interview with Charlie Morrow (Composer, Sound Artist, Performer and Innovator, USA) Part 3 Extreme Environments and Outer Space 13 Design for Extreme Environments Project [DEEP]: A Case Study of Innovations in Mediating Adverse Conditions on the Human Body, Brian Davies (University of Cincinnati’s College of Design, Architecture, Art, and Planning, USA) 14 Design for Confinement: The Art and Science of Sensory Deprivation in Space, Evan Twyford (Industrial Designer, USA) 15 Fabrics for Space Travel, Evelyne Orndoff (NASA, USA) 16 The Role of Soft Materials in the Design of Extreme Interior Environment for Space Exploration, Larry Toups, Matthew Simon, A. Scott Howe and Robert Howard (NASA, USA) 17 Interview with Charles Camarda (NASA, USA) Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisAnnamari Vänskä is Professor of Fashion Research at the Aalto University, Finland, and Visiting Professor at Shanghai College of Fashion, Donghua University, China. In 2013, she was awarded the prize for Adjunct Professor of the Year by the University of Helsinki, Finland.Translated by Eva Malkki, professional translator and managing director of the sole-proprietor translation company Evaberry Ltd, Finland.Trade ReviewVanska offers new perspectives on the common media refrains surrounding children’s appearance, sexuality, and “lost” innocence. This welcome contribution to the literature on children, fashion, and advertising provides important historical and theoretical context for a frank analysis of contemporary controversies, sexuality, portrayals of children, and child models. -- Jennifer Farley Gordon, Iowa State University.Little has been written about the impact of fashion imagery and the representation of children’s identities until now. Original, highly informed and well researched, this book is an important contribution to the field of fashion scholarship. -- Vicki Karaminas, Massey University, Wellington, New Zealand.Reader Alert: This book turns heads. Fashionable Childhood provides a unique insight into the mutually constitutive spheres of consumer culture, childhood and the visual representation of children. What follows is a compelling and insightful analysis of the significance of fashion and the contested terrain of childhood innocence. Anyone who thought fashion was marginal or trivial will think again. This book makes a valuable and timely contribution to the field, with a strikingly thought-provoking approach to making sense of modern childhood in contemporary times. -- Mary Jane Kehily, Professor of Gender and Education, The Open University, UKTable of ContentsIntroduction: Childhood as Media Spectacle 1 Historically Constructed Childhood 2 Fashionable Childhood 3 Innocent Children 4 Eroticized Innocence 5 Fashion as the Sexualizer of Children? 6 Heterosexual Innocence 7 Queer Children in Fashion Advertising 8 Sexualization is the Name of the Game Epilogue: The Right to One’s Own Style Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisTo work with the materials of tomorrow, design students across visual arts disciplines need to understand the cutting edge of today. Whether you're modelling in interiors, designing in fashion or constructing for interiors, in your work or as part of a final project, 3D Printing design is an encouraging guide to additive manufacturing within design disciplines. Francis Bitonti gives an insider's view from his design studio on how 3D printing is already shaking up the industry, and where it's likely to go next. Complete with interviews from designers, business owners and 3D-print experts throughout, Bitonti considers whether 3D body scans mean couture for all, how rapid prototyping can change your design method and if 3D printing materials can enhance medical design, amongst other areas of this emerging method of manufacture. This is inspirational reading for the designers of tomorrow.Trade ReviewI highly recommend this book to any designers wanting to delve deeper into the world of 3D printing. It is full of great ideas and case studies, and successfully introduces additive manufacturing from the ground up, sharing the author’s insight, passion and involvement in emerging trends. * Anatol Just, Digital Manufacturing Technical Demonstrator, London Metropolitan University, UK *Francis Bitonti’s luminous book calls attention to the extraordinary opportunities afforded in this dazzling era of disruptive technology, painting a breathtaking portrait of a bold new world. * Evan Douglis, Dean, Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, USA *A consistent investigation of the emerging fields at the crossroads of fashion, technology and architecture... literature is currently lacking a serious and structured book that engages with production technologies and computational design with a precise emphasis on 3D printed fashion. It is a unique instrument for the understanding of the third industrial revolution. I would strongly recommend this book to my students. *proposal review * Niccolo Casas, R.I.S.D. Rhode Island School of Design, USA / Bartlett School of Architecture, UCL, UK *Its greatest strength is that it’s written from the perspective of a fashion insider with the technical chops to create beyond the fashion world. His insight is incomparable and there is no better source than Francis Bitonti to cite this kind of work. I can’t think of any other book that specifically focuses on 3D printing for fashion. This book is necessary for the future of the field, and is also very forward-thinking. Its approach to 3D printing as a challenge to modern-day industrial conventions is also interesting and provides a theoretical background to the functional topics. *proposal review * Antonius Wiriadjaja, Research Fellow and Adjunct Professor at New York University, USA *Fills a void in terms of educational texts: there is no direct competitor that I know of on this admittedly focused topic. This is one of the first texts to address emerging design and fabrication techniques in the fashion industry. By coupling both topics, the book merges these formerly discrete activities into a cohesive single process. *proposal review * Fleet Hower, Lecturer, Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, New York, USA *Table of ContentsIntroduction 1. The materials revolution of 3D printing 2. The future of materials 3. Disruptive distribution 4. Case studies Conclusion

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Book SynopsisShaun Cole is Associate Professor in Fashion at Winchester School of Art, University of Southampton, UK. His research interests focus on dressed appearance, sexuality, masculinities and representations in visual and popular culture. He is the author of Don We Now Our Gay Apparel (2000), has contributed to books and journals including The Men's Fashion Reader (Berg, 2008), and is the co-editor of Fashion Media (Bloomsbury, 2013).Trade ReviewFills a notable gap in the growing literature surrounding dress and sexualities and will provide an invaluable reference for future researchers. * Fashion Theory *Gay Men’s Style addresses both sexuality and culture. Through an astonishing series of interviews, the author takes us on a dizzying spin through shops, bars, clubs, gyms, workplaces and streets of global cities around the world. Always placing the emphasis on real lives and experiences, this important work makes us reconsider how gay men’s dress is continually remade to create looks, desires, communities and a sense of self for work and leisure in a world that remains challenging and normative. -- Peter McNeil, Distinguished Professor, University of Technology Sydney, AustraliaTable of ContentsPreface Introduction Identities, subject positions and Intersectionality Defining Style, Fashion and Dress Methodological approaches Chapter arrangement 1. What’s the difference?: Situating Gay Men in the New Millennium ‘How to spot a millennial homo: differences in gay and straight men’s dress Well-dressed gay men – a stereotype What is gay style? ‘… made me gay’: Cultural Influences on gay men’s dress choices Hipster / Metrosexual /Homosexual – where is the gay/straight border? 2. Gender[ed] play Femininity, effeminacy and drag Gay masculinities and ‘butch’ styles of dress Gender ambiguities in gay men’s dressed appearance 3. Millennial Gay bodies Mesomorphic bodies, muscularity and the gym Ectomorphic Skinny and Slim Bodies Endomorphic Bigger, Heavier, Fatter Bodies Body Modifications: Tattoos Bodily presentations on social media 4. Coming out and first gay styles Thinking about coming out Teenage coming out and effeminacy Punk, goth and emo as a defining teenage gay style Coming out and adopting gay styles of dress Coming out – an ongoing process Coming out in later life 5. Bars, clubs and scenes Comparing categories of bars, clubs and scenes (might need a better title) Muscularity on the global circuit party scene Bear Scene (sub)culture Alternative Queer scenes Loss of gay scenes and spaces 6. Dressing in and for relationships Dressing to pick up Dressing like the object of desire Sexual Attraction and masculinity and femininity Feeling attractive and looking sexy Hair and Sexual attraction Dressing for dates Coupledom: shared wardrobes and similar styles The influence of partners and relationships on personal style Shopping together and gifting clothes in relationships 7. Creating the gay wardrobe Physical wardrobe and clothing arrangements Choosing in the morning Assembling outfits Smart versus casual Variety versus uniformity Dress codes and regulations 8. We’re Here, We’re Queer, Are We Going Shopping? From High street to High-end designer Following Fashion Trends? The Price is Right Physical stores or online retailers? Vintage and Second Hand 9. Dressing for Work Formality at work Uniformity in Retail and Sales? Fashionability at work Artistic and Creative Performance as work, work as performance 10. Comfort and fit Baggy, loose and comfortable Close-fitting and Tailored Comfort and Confidence Fashionability, Integrity and Authenticity Well-fitting garments and age-appropriate comfort 11. Ambiguities of Age and Ageing Awareness of age and ageing Changing with age Age-appropriate choices Ageing and hair Age and Health concerns Ageing capital Conclusion

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Book SynopsisNicholas R. Bell is the Fleur and Charles Bresler Senior Curator of American Craft and Decorative Art, at the Renwick Gallery of the Smithsonian American Art Museum, Washington, DC, USA.Table of ContentsTable of Contents List of Contributors 1. (Dis) Organizing Principles Nicholas R. Bell: Introduction Glenn Adamson: Goodbye Craft 2. Aesthetic Transgressions Elissa Auther: He is Survived by His Longtime Companion: Feeling in the Work of Josh Faught Maria Buszek, Elaine Reichek, Sonya Clark, Michael Strand: Media, Process, History: Craft beyond Crafting Jenni Sorkin: Craft-Like: The Illusion of Authenticity 3. The Politics of Display Elizabeth McGoey: America at Home: Crafts and Craftsmanship in the 1939-1940 New York World’s Fair Shelter Exhibits Ulysses Dietz: Taste, Money, Museums and the Subversion of Craft Julie Muniz and Jennifer Scanlan: Institutionalized: Craft in the Museum 4. Enduring Conflicts Maria Shevzov: Making an Impression: The Material Culture Scholarship and Craft of Historical Reenactors Bibiana Obler: Craft as a Response to War 5. Education and Technology Garth Johnson: A Hackerspace of One’s Own: Curriculum and the Maker Movement Neil Gershenfeld, Stuart Kestenbaum, Phyllis Klein: Digital Fabrication: Implications for Craft and Community 6. Negotiating Industry Ezra Shales: The Politics of ‘Ordinary Manufacture’ in the Post-Industrial State Sandra Alfoldy: Craft Goes to Disney! Gabriel Craig: DIY Detroit List of illustrations/photography credits Index

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Book SynopsisTrade ReviewA hands-on, user-friendly guide as to how fashion designers design, which has been aesthetically laid out with strong imagery and some really good insights. -- Rachel Studd, Senior Lecturer in Design * University of Manchester, UK *This is an excellent book that has key images supporting the description and approaches to demystify the fashion design process. -- Alison Gault, Lecturer in Fashion and Knit Design * University of Ulster, UK *A very informative book that has a straightforward approach and is easy to follow. The sequence is on point as to how one should be introduced to the design process and the images are fabulous. -- Kelly De Melo, Fashion Industry Professional and Entrepreneur and Fashion Design ProfessorThis book is an exciting overview of the fashion industry with engaging materials, discussions, interviews and activities that realistically depict roles in the fashion industry in a manner understandable to novice readers. -- Eulanda Sanders, Apparel, Merchandising and Design Professor * Iowa State University, US *Excellent resource to introduce students to Fashion Design. Well received by students. * Cheryl Smith, Curriculum Leader and Lecturer in Art and Design, Newcastle-Under-Lyme College, UK *Table of ContentsIntroduction 1. Research What sort of designer are you?; Know your subject; Starting your research; Sources of research; The research book; Mood-, theme- and storyboard; In fashion; Research exercises 2 Design Design identity; Ideal bodies; Silhouette; Proportion and line; God is in the details; Fabric, colour and texture; Rendering your ideas; Portfolios; In fashion; Design exercises 3 Fabrics and techniques Fabric; Natural fibres; Man-made fibres; Synthetic fibres; Developments in fabric; Fabric construction; Surface treatments; Fabric and yarn trade shows; In fashion; Fabric exercises 4 Construction Tools and machinery; Construction techniques; Draping on the mannequin; In fashion; Construction exercises 5 Developing a collection Who are you designing for?; Genre; Types of garment; Putting together a collection; Showing a collection; Branding; In fashion; Developing a collection exercises Appendix Glossary Further resources Bibliography Index Picture credits Acknowledgements and credits

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Book SynopsisIn recent years, menswear has moved decisively center stage. Menswear Revolution investigates the transformation of men's fashion through the lens of shifting masculinities, examining how its increasing diversity has created new ways for men to explore and express their identities. Harnessing sustained market growth and creative dynamism on the runway, ground-breaking designers from Raf Simons and Hedi Slimane to Craig Green have revolutionized the discipline with their bold re-imaginings of the male wardrobe.Analysing the role of the media in shaping attitudes to men's fashion, Menswear Revolution studies how competing narratives of masculinity are reflected in popular discourse. Taking us from the mod and peacock revolutions of the 1960s to the new wave aesthetics of the 1980s, the book explores historical precedents for today's menswear scene and looks at the evolution of the ideal' male body, from the muscular to the lean and boyish. Combining interviews with fashionTrade ReviewMcCauley Bowstead’s talent lies not only his is deft handling of an enormous quantity of material, but also in his ability to write coherently with sophistication. His work is like a bespoke suit compared to ready-to-wear. You know—and appreciate—the difference once you slip it on. Menswear Revolution is quality craftsmanship. -- Andy Reilly, University of Hawai`i, USA, Editor of Critical Studies in Men's FashionBowstead’s book is an excellent contribution to the growing menswear bookshelf. Articulating his own experiences of searching for and wearing fashions that were at the edge of acceptability, and the blurring of gender conventions in his dress, is an important facet in the success of this book, along with his ability to succinctly summarise historical precedents and theoretical perspectives. The work is sophisticated yet accessible and I, for one, would heartily recommend that this takes its place in key reading texts for students of fashion, design, history and cultural studies and academics’ Christmas wishlists. * Journal of Dress History *Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Introduction 1. Disciplinary Discourses · New Markets · New Men? · Hipster Hate · Performance Anxiety · Fearing Femininity · Reverse Discourse · Contested Masculinities 2. Historical Resonances · Fashion and Modernity · The Birth of Consumer Culture · The 1980s · Authenticity and Irony 3. Body Language: towards a phenomenology of masculinity · Embodied and Disembodied Masculinities: the male body in the twentieth century · The Liberated body · Holding out for a hero · The 1990s and its legacy · The Fourth Sex: Androgyny and Objectification 4. Millennial Men · Subculture, Music & Fashion · Queering Men’s Fashion · Millennial Men 5. The Shock of the New · The State of the Art: menswear since 2010 · Androgyny in Contemporary Menswear · Workers of the world unite · Athleisure · Deconstructing tailoring · The New Monasticism · The Shock of the New Conclusion Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisOffers the first scholarly study of the Oscars red carpet as a media phenomenon.Trade Review"This important study advances our understanding of the historical, cultural, economic, and performative functions of fashion in modern life and everyday consciousness. Elizabeth Castaldo Lund n reveals how the red-carpeting of global culture still is expanding through established and newly innovated transmedia platforms. The study is a history of the Academy Awards observed through the lenses of fashion, celebrity, and media. Additionally, it refocuses on unexpected areas, such as the surprisingly crucial function of the anonymous fans who populate the bleachers aside the red carpet. The exemplary, meticulous, research utilizes original documents available only in the Academy's archives. The depth and breadth of this scholarship are unparalleled.?" -Donald Crafton, University of Notre Dame

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Book SynopsisOffers the first edited collection with an explicit documentary focus on fashion icons, events, cultures and industries

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Book SynopsisSwatch Reference Guide for Interior Design is a complete learning tool for interior fabrics. An all-in-one text and swatch book, it is replete with 145 contemporary swatches relevant to the field of interior design. This reference offers all the pertinent information needed for fabric identification, analysis, acquisition, and usage. Through the text and assembly of the kit, readers will learn all the essential performance properties of fibers, knits, finishes, and more. This resource will be an invaluable tool throughout any interior designer''s career.Table of ContentsPreface Overview of the Text Constructing the Book 1. The Textile Cycle 2. Natural Fibers: Cellulose Fibers 3. Natural Fibers: Protein Fibers 4. Manufactured Fibers 5. Synthetic Fibers 6. Yarns 7. Plain Weave Fabrics 8. Plain Weave Variations 9. Twill Weave Fabrics 10. Satin Weave Fabrics 11. Complex Weaves 12. Pile Weaves 13. Weft Knits 14. Pile Knits 15. Warp Knits 16. Miscellaneous Fabric Structures 17. Prints 18. Finishes Quick Reference Guide Tables Swatch Boards

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Book SynopsisTechnology has always impacted the practice of fashion design. Though fashion and technology have long intersected, recent developments in computation have enabled the adoption of new methods, tools, and approaches to design. From materials to new manufacturing processes of the industrial age, advancements in technology have driven forward our understanding of the aesthetics, style, and functionality of garments and accessories. Fashion and Technology provides a conceptual framework for how new technologies are used in fashion design and shows how they can be implemented into the design process. This practical guide includes highly visual tutorials that introduce students and practitioners to designing with electronicssuch as LEDs, sensors, electroluminescent materials, conductive and reactive materialsand digital fabrication technologies such as 3D printing and laser cutting. Projects make these innovative materials accessible to designers and will inspire creative collaboratio

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Book SynopsisThis seminal text demystifies all the terminology around working with textiles today, providing definitions of processes, techniques, features, and even some historical terms that you need to know. The dictionary now includes coverage of sustainability, smart materials and biobased textiles, intelligent and 3D manufacturing, new technologies, and processes. Entries cover fibers, fabrics, laws and regulations affecting textile materials and processing, inventors of textile technology, and business and trade terms relevant to textiles. Highly illustrated with over 400 images, entries include pronunciation, derivation, definition, and uses. The ninth edition also includes online availability to vocabulary and image flashcards via STUDIO for easy on-the-go access.

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Book SynopsisThis seminal text demystifies the terminology of working in the fashion industry today, providing definitions of processes, techniques, features, and even some historical terms that you need to know. The dictionary now includes coverage of sustainability, smart materials, new technologies, and processes. This book has been reorganized in a purely alphabetical order for easy reference. Lavishly illustrated with over 800 illustrations capturing the styles and details of fashion, this reference work is a must have for students, designers, fashion merchandisers, librarians, and fashion enthusiasts.Table of ContentsPreface Acknowledgments A-Z Entries Appendix 1: Top 100 Fashion Influencers Appendix 2: Fashion through the Ages

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Book SynopsisSurvey of Historic Costume Coloring Book highlights Western dress from the ancient world to today through fashion silhouettes. By coloring line drawings that parallel chapters from the Survey of Historic Costume, Seventh Edition textbook, students will learn to identify and retain specific details that make each historical period's fashion unique. Each chapter also includes activities and prompts to promote further thinking and creativity, including features like Draw-It Boxes and Modern Connections Boxes. Through these dynamic, hands-on exercises, students will develop an understanding of historic costume, increase awareness of world culture, and have fun through this interactive learning medium.Features:-92 pieces of line art to color, adapted from images in Survey of Historic Costume -Modern Connections Boxes, Draw-It Boxes, Activity Boxes, and Global Connections Boxes provide additional exercises to apply knowledge of costume history and design -Image CTable of ContentsPreface and Acknowledgments 1. Mesopotamian Civilization, c. 3500-600 BCE 2. Greece and Rome, c. 650 BCE–400 CE 3. The Byzantine Period and the Early Middle Ages, c. 330–1500 CE 4. The Late Middle Ages, c. 1300–1500 5. The Italian Renaissance, c. 1400–1600 6. The Northern Renaissance, c. 1500–1600 7. The 17th Century, 1600–1700 8. The 18th Century, 1700–1790 9. The Directoire Period and the Empire Period, 1790–1820 10. The Romantic Period, 1820–1850 11. The Crinoline Period, 1850–1870 12. The Bustle Period and the 1890s, 1870–1900 13. The Edwardian Period and World War I, 1900–1920 14. The 1920s: The Jazz Age 15. The 1930s: The Great Depression 16. The 1940s: World War II to the New Look 17. The 1950s: Fashion Conformity 18. The 1960s: Style Tribes Emerge 19. The 1970s: Activism and Fashion 20. The 1980s: Changing Roles 21. The 1990s: Fashion Fragmentation 22. The 2000s: The New Millennium 23. The 2010s: The Modern Age Image Captions and Cross References

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Book SynopsisObject Lessons is a series of short, beautifully designed books about the hidden lives of ordinary things.Few clothing items are as ubiquitous or casual as blue jeans. Yet, their simplicity is deceptive. Blue jeans are nothing if not an exercise in opposites. Americans have accepted jeans as a symbol of their culture, but today jeans are a global consumer product category. Levi Strauss made blue jeans in the 1870s to withstand the hard work of mining, but denim has since become the epitome of leisure. In the 1950s, celebrities like Marlon Brando transformed the utilitarian clothing of industrial labor into a glamorous statement of youthful rebellion, and now, you can find jeans on chic fashion runways. For some, indigo blue might be the color of freedom, but for workers who have produced the dye, it has often been a color of oppression and tyranny. Blue Jeans considers the versatility of this iconic garment and investigates what makes denim a universal signifier, ready to fit Trade ReviewLike a best friend in a changing room, Purnell provides funny, fascinating, and sometimes horrifying commentary on your taste in jeans. Never again will you slip on a pair without thinking about the global historical and economic forces shaping your rear end. * Erin Thompson, Associate Professor of Art Crime, CUNY, USA *Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Introduction: The Most Versatile Garment 1. Distress Blue Blood Blue Dye Blue Is Not Green Blue Collar 2. Cut The Wild One Hemmed In It’s All in the Jeans The Denim Defense 3. Comfort Everywhere Everywhen Everyday Everyone Conclusion: The Paradox of Jeans Index

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Book SynopsisA comprehensive study of walking canes from around the world, dating from the distant past to the modern-day. The book presents a historical context on both practical and ceremonial usage. At the same time, specially shot pictures showcase the celebrated A&D Collection of canes, while enlightening prose demonstrates the cane's enduring relevance to society.More than just a mobility aid, the cane has held numerous offices of significance. From the staff of the legendary Monkey King in the classic Chinese Journey to the West, or the stylised crosiers carried by high-ranking prelates from the Roman Catholic church, to the truncheon wielded by Mr Punch in puppet shows, canes are embedded in the culture of almost every country around the globe. Roving the map with one hand and thumbing through history books with the other, A Virtual History of Walking Canes and Sticks seeks not only to introduce the collector to the diverse wealth of canes available but also to entertain the casual reader. Intermingled with over 800 full-colour pictures are descriptions of gadget canes for tradesmen, squirting canes for pranksters, and glamorous Art Nouveau canes for the dapper gentlemen of the '20s. Informative and meticulously researched, this book paves an accessible route into a niche subject while paying homage to our ongoing relationship with canes. This story stretches back as far as history itself.Trade ReviewThis beautiful book by Anthony Moss shows careful research and study; it rises far above other photographic books on antique walking sticks. -- Renzo Traballesi, psychiatrist in Siena, Italy and president of the Mondobastone Association, formed by many Italian antique cane collectorsIt is wonderful to discover a new book on antique walking canes from an obsessive UK walking cane collector. This book is rich in images of selected and rarely seen objects, supported by excellent information and technical data. By integrating historical research with a passionate knowledge for this fascinating object, the author is contributing to open our eyes to a seemingly 'utilitarian' walking cane: by revealing a powerful, meaningful and symbolic artefact. The author demonstrates how these objects can tell stories about the times and the people while offering a glimpse to their past and their future. This is a 'must-read' to any person interested in navigating through the universe of walking canes across history. -- Eduard Tovar Estrada, Antique dealer, Antique Canes AmsterdamTable of ContentsDedicationAcknowledgementsNavigational Aid to EntriesForeword by Dominic StricklandPreface The Dandy A Poem by Deanna MossIntroduction A Short History of the Walking Stick CHAPTER 1 The Jewels in the Crown: Highlights from the A&D CollectionCHAPTER 2 Cane Classifications CHAPTER 3 Cane Handle Motifs CHAPTER 4 The Anatomy of the Cane CHAPTER 5 From The Dawn of Time to 20th Century SophisticationCHAPTER 6 The Umbrella and the ParasolCHAPTER 7: Contemporary Walking Canes - Alive and Popular TodayCHAPTER 8: Materials and TechniquesAppendices Notes on Source MaterialBibliographyWhen the Cane Was King - A Poem by Deanna MossIndex

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Book SynopsisThis comprehensive study of womens and mens fashion accessories provides fashion merchandising students with a detailed analysis of the fashion accessory categories. Broken into three units, the text not only covers the major categories but provides an overview of the accessories business and discusses the materials used in the production of a variety of accessories.Table of Contents* An Overview of Fashion Accessories - The Fashion Accessories Industry - Product Development * The Materials of Fashion Accessories - Footwear - Handbags, Small Personal Goods, Luggage and Belts - Socks and Hosiery - Scarves, Ties and Handkerchiefs - Hats, Hair Accessories, Wigs and Hairpieces - Gloves, Umbrellas and Eyewear - Fine Jewellery - Costume Jewellery - Watches TEXT FEATURES * Historical surveys of each accessory classification * Analysis of the current state of the industry * Numerous tables, illustrations and industry and product photographs * Review terms, questions and chapter summaries * Exercises provide students with opportunities to apply knowledge * Profile boxes provide detailed real-life examples of businesses in each accessory industry ** Instructor's Guide by Tana Stufflebean of the University of Central Oklahoma provides suggestions and resources for using the book as a texbook and reference *** PowerPoint (R) Presentation includes more than 300 slides that illustrate key concepts from the book and provide the basis for classroom lectures and discussion for each chapter, compatible with PC and MAC platforms.

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Book SynopsisThis classic text offers students and industry professionals detailed step-by-step instructions and illustrations for grading pattern pieces for women's, men's and children's wear.Table of ContentsIntroduction Section I. Women's Wear Explanation of Women's Wear Grading Difference between sizes Front Bodice Back Bodice Front Skirt Back Skirt Waistbands for Separate Skirt or Pants Sleeve Front Pants Back Pants Collar Notes for Section I Section II. Design Variations Princess Midriff Back Yoke Shawl Collar Blouse - Torso Kimono Sleeve - Wrap Bodice Raglan Sleeve Sleeve and Yoke Cut in One Six Gore Skirt Skirt with Cut-in Pocket Circle Skirt Swim Wear Section III. Menswear Differences between sizes Dress Shirts Sport Shirts Jacket With Lapel Sleeve and Body Cut In One Shirt With One piece Raglan Sleeve Trousers Knitted Briefs or Bikini Section IV. Children's Wear Explanation of Size Ranges Children - 2 through 6X Girls - 7 through 14 Boys - 6 through 18

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Book SynopsisGraphic fashion represents aspects of our lives we are not afraid to share in public, from social and political affiliations to artistic and musical preferences, lifestyle pursuits or sense of humour

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Book SynopsisLearn how to customize your clothes--designing new pattern shapes, style lines, and fashion details with Sara Alm's easy-to-follow instruction! In Sara Alm's Designing Clothes with the Flat Pattern Method, sewers learn a technique that opens up myriad possibilities for making one-of-a-kind garments. By using basic pattern blocks called slopers, Alm shows sewers how to design new shapes, style lines, and fashion details--creating patterns for nearly any piece of clothing they want to sew. Take a basic straight skirt pattern, for example, and convert it into any other skirt design. Change the hemline or the basic shape of a skirt from straight to A-line to full swing with multiple gores. Try adjusting the waistline placement or convert it from waistband to waistline-facing. Change the style and placement of the closures. The options are endless once sewers understand the basics of flat-pattern designing, which is explained in the book. Designing Clothes with the Flat Pattern Method is divided into sections: skirts, tops, and pants. While many of the same principles apply to each garment type, there are different techniques to take into account. As soon as sewers know how to design from these three slopers, that knowledge is easily transferred to designing dresses, shorts, jumpsuits, and outerwear. The principles and techniques taught are also easily transferable to designing children's clothes. By following extensive technique instruction in each of the three categories, twelve different garments are designed from each basic sloper and photographed on models so readers fully understand the process and the end result. Thanks to Designing Clothes with the Flat Pattern Method, passionate sewers will be as skilled as Project Runway contestants in no time!

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Book SynopsisEqual parts photo-rich lookbook, and cultural commentary, Fly: The Big Book of Basketball Fashion is the story of the extraordinary intersection of high fashion and basketball, from the league's inception to today, and celebrates the iconic style of NBA athletes.Each chapter explores the style of an era and the cultural influences that shaped it: The league's inception in 1949, pre-Civil Rights Movement, when the NBA was mostly comprised of white players who wore suits and skinny ties. The years following the Civil Rights Act of 1964 and the birth of funk and R&B when basketball fashion got flashier (think Walt "Clyde" Frazier and Wilt Chamberlain wearing fur coats and big hats). The Michael Jordan era of the 1980s and 1990s, with its oversize suits. The epic Iverson/Hip-Hop years of the late 1990s and early 2000s. And now to today, a time defined not only by social media and high fashion's birthing of the tunnel walk (think LeBron James, Dwyane Wade, and Russell Westbrook), but one in which athletes are idealized as style icons and activists, figures who inspire conversations beyond how they play and what they wear.Trade Review"A coffee-table book that elevates the subject to the same decorative status as a Dior or Gucci monograph"—The New York Times"A coffee-table book that elevates the subject to the same decorative status as a Dior or Gucci monograph."—The New York TimesMitchell S. Jackson walks readers through eight decades of sharp suits, fresh kicks, audacious bling and playful embodiments of swagger on and off the court. Perfect for your friend who’s still talking about Serge Ibaka’s scarf.—The New York Times“a gorgeous, glamorous look at the intersection of fashion and basketball.”—Bookpage“a gorgeous, glamorous look at the intersection of fashion and basketball.”—Bookpage"stunning photos and spot on cultural commentary"—The Root"Stunning photos and spot on cultural commentary."—The RootJackson, a prize-winning cultural critic, shows how basketball players became the most glamorous, fashion-forward athletes in the world.—The New York Post“Mitchell S. Jackson expertly fuses fashion and basketball, showing why players’ off court style can be as impactful as what they do in the game.” —NINA GARCIA, editor in chief, Elle“In Fly, Jackson does more than compile a basketball/fashion look book, and it’s more than a timeline and history. To me, what he explores is the evergreen push to remind people that the talented are more than their talents. That there’s a burning creativity and a relentless desire to express oneself, not as a highlight but as a human.” —JASON REYNOLDS, #1 New York Times bestselling coauthor of Stamped“You cannot be a true enthusiast of sports or fashion if you don’t own a copy of this book. European designers are too often credited with the trends that spread around the world, and Jackson shows us that those designs are nothing without validation from the streets where many NBA athletes get their start. In this beautiful celebration of culture, he captures the role these athletes have played in style on a global scale.” —D. WATKINS, New York Times bestselling author of Where Tomorrows Aren’t Promised and Black Boy Smile“NBA fashion has evolved so much over the years. To see the various styles worn by players throughout the eras—all in one book—is cool. Now with social media and the game being so global, everyone sees everything. NBA fashion has never been bigger.” —P.J. TUCKER, Philadelphia 76ers

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Book SynopsisEver wondered why Yayoi Kusama dresses in dots or dreamt of asking Picasso: why the Breton tee? Enter sARTorial, a fun guide to the signature looks of 60 key artists from the 19th century to today. Short texts unpack the style essentials of icons such as Claude Monet to millennials including Tauba Auerbach, revealing how they construct their looks and why it reflects the works they create. Featuring fantastic images of the artists in all their splendour, sARTorial is essential reading for anyone looking to decode the 'drobe, and gain valuable insight into the cult of the artist.

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Book SynopsisWhite T-shirt, Miniskirt, Hoodie, Jeans, Ballet flat, Breton top, Biker jacket, Little black dress, Stiletto, Trench. What are you wearing? In all likelihood, your outfit will feature at least one of these 10 items. Familiar, commonplace, ubiquitous – each piece has become an emblem of a certain style, carrying its own connotations and historical significance. They aren't just clothes – our social history is contained within these perfect 10 pieces. They're vessels that hold the history of style, politics and identity: while trends may come and go, these are here to stay.The Ten includes deep dive explorations into each item's history, how it gained its reputation, and what it means today, accompanied by stylish photography and illustrations. Stories of iconic adopters and landmarks in the story of each piece reveal how they have achieved their status as so ubiquitous and yet so extraordinary. From the evolution of the white T-shirt from army staple to symbol of achingly cool simplicity, the hoodie's birth in the monasteries of Rome to its domination of streetwear, and the transition of the stiletto from the feet of fifteenth-century Iranian equestrians to those of New York businesswomen, The Ten puts fashion in context. Showing how certain pieces are just as ubiquitous on the catwalk as on the street, Lauren Cochrane's crucial volume defines the fashion items that make up your wardrobe, and how they got there, providing the perfect excuse – a pedigree, a narrative, a realness – for the reader to wear them time and time again.Trade Review'Amazing. What perfect timing for fashion's new wave' -- Barbara Hulanicki, Founder, BIBA'A deeper-than-deep dive into fashion's enduring classics' -- Navaz Batliwalla, DisneyRollerGirl'Lauren Cochrane's The Ten is the definitive one-stop guide to fashion's most essential and iconic styles, with an unrivalled collection of the fashion industry's authoritative voices – from mainstream icons to underground figures – shedding light on the cultural and personal impact of classics that will never date. The perfect gift and resource for anyone with an interest in style' -- Sara McAlpine, Fashion Features Editor, ELLETable of ContentsWhite T-shirt • Miniskirt • Hoodie • Jeans • Ballet flat • Breton top • Biker jacket • Little black dress • Stiletto • Trench.

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Fashion reveals not only who we are, but whom we aspire to be. From 1775 to 1925, artists in Europe were especially attuned to the gaps between appearance and reality, participating in and often critiquing the making of the self and the image. Reading their portrayals of modern life with an eye to fashion and dress reveals a world of complex calculations and subtle signals. Fashion in European Art explores the significance of historical dress over this period of upheaval, as well as the lived experience of dress and its representation. Drawing on visual sources that extend from paintings and photographs to fashion plates, caricatures and advertisements, the expert contributors consider how artists and their sitters engaged with the fashion and culture of their times. They explore the politics of dress, its inspirations and the reactions it provoked, as well as the many meanings of fashion in European art, revealing its importance in understanding modernity itself.

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Book Synopsis"There have been volumes written on and by Terence Conran and Mary Quant, but this is the first time they have been placed together in a book. And it works." - Colin McDowell, The Times "It is given to a fortunate few to be born at the right time, in the right place, with the right talents. In recent fashion there have been three: Chanel, Dior and Mary Quant." - Ernestine Carter. Transporting you back to London at the height of the Swinging Sixties, this book provides vital context for two of the biggest and boldest names in 'Pop' fashion: Mary Quant, alleged mother of the miniskirt, and Terence Conran, the entrepreneur behind the new wave of 'lifestyle' stores. Friends, associates and allies in design, Quant and Conran stood at the head of an informal but influential bohemian group who steered the rudder of style during the Pop era. 'The Chelsea Set' resist definition; there was no comprehensive members list. Conran/Quant: Swinging London - A Lifestyle Revolution explores the contributions of designers and artists from Laura and Bernard Ashley to Eduardo Paolozzi, Nigen Henderson and Alexander Plunket Greene, all of whom were essential generators of Sixties Style.Trade Review"It is given to a fortunate few to be born at the right time, in the right place, with the right talents. In recent fashion there have been three: Chanel, Dior and Mary Quant." - Ernestine Carter.

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Book SynopsisA collection of over 300 images from Vogue's archive of photography, curated by former Vogue features editor Jo Ellison

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Book SynopsisThis beautiful new book of functional, stylish designs for little girls contains over 20 unique knitting patterns for sweaters, cardigans, dresses and tops, skirts and snoods and charming accessories. Combining true comfort with contemporary design, in a world where time is precious and clothes are often mass-produced, Danish knitwear designer Vibe Ulrik Sondergaard has produced a delightful range of garments that are definitely worth investing time into. Many of the designs focus on texture and shape in solid colours, and all aim to be functional for active children. They are feminine but not too childish in look and feel. Beautiful stitches, quirky details, classic shapes and lush yarns are combined to inspire others to create their own ‘Labour of Love’. Word count: 19,500

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Book SynopsisLess than three decades ago, when the Chinese bought cloth or clothes, they would have had to use a government-issued coupon. Today the Chinese fashion industry is one of the most dynamic in the world - it not only supplies fashions to the increasingly discerning domestic market, but also provides one-third of the clothing sold in the global market. How did this phenomenal transition come about? What can the growth of the Chinese fashion industry tell us about the post-Mao China? What roles do the local and the global play in the dramatic changes? This book offers a historically informed, ethnographically grounded and interpretive analysis of contemporary Chinese fashion and the fashion industry. It examines the interplay of state politics, market forces, local social and cultural factors, and the global political economy, both in the rise of the Chinese fashion industry and in the life and work of Chinese fashion professionals. As the first ethnographic account of the Chinese fashion industry in the post-Mao era, The Chinese Fashion Industry combines first-hand accounts with sophisticated cultural analysis to offer new insights, and will be of interest to students and scholars of fashion, anthropology and China.Trade ReviewThe analyses are timely and important, and Zhao shows conclusively that many of our assumptions about fashion, the market, and modernization do not apply simplistically in the case of China. The book is short and readable and would be of interest to anthropologists working on material culture, globalization, and fashion and would be accessible to students and the general public. -- Jack David Eller * Anthropology Review Database *The book is a “must-read” for anyone who wants to know about China’s fashion scene. Zhao has contributed many unique and interesting insights that are informed by his scholarly background in anthropology. His ability to challenge established theories and traditional views deserves admiration from both scholars and general readers. Another noteworthy point is Zhao’s accessible yet informed writing style. This is not just a book for scholars in the field, but also an interesting text for anyone who wants to understand more about Chinese political, social and economic culture, as it has applied to the fashion industry. -- Christine Tsui, Parsons The New School for Design * The China Journal, No. 72 *Table of ContentsI. Introduction II. Rise of the Chinese Fashion Industry Chapter 1: The Growth of Chinese Textile and Apparel Industries Chapter 2: What Do Changing Chinese Fashions Really Tell Us? III. Creating Fashion in China Chapter 3: Designing a National Style: The Tangzhuang Phenomenon Chapter 4: For the Sake of Art or for the Market? The Cultural Economy of Fashion Design Chapter 5: Creating Fashion on the Runway, Chinese Style Chapter 6: Making Clothes for International Markets IV. Conclusion: Clothing, Modernization, and Globalization Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisThis is the complete guide to pattern cutting for special occasion clothes: party dresses and eveningwear. With step-by-step instructions and clear, informative diagrams, Dawn Cloake shows how to develop the basic design blocks to create a wide range of designs, encouraging you to 'mix and match' elements to create your own unique garments. Special features include tips on combining pattern cutting with modelling techniques and advice on using stretch fabrics. Design elements include: sleeveless bodices, backless bodices, wrapover bodices, ruched bodices, flare skirts, full skirts, set-in sleeves, yoked trousers, jersey dresses, Empire line dresses, low necklines, wide necklines, draped bodices, close-fit skirts, godets, close-fitting sleeves, short sleeves, tapered trousers, bias-cut dresses, strapless dresses, hipsters, plunge necklines, asymmetrical bodices, strapless bodices, draped necklines, fishtail skirts, separate sleeves, jackets, high-waisted trousers, panelled dresses, backless dresses and waistbands.

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Book SynopsisWith the closure of Jean Muir Ltd. in 2007, interest in the life and work of the Iconic British fashion designer has never been greater. Jean Muir (1928-1995), doyenne of dressmaking, is forever associated with the 'little black dress'. Her signature style married a distinctive purity of line with a soft fluidity on the body, to create the sensuous, deceptively simple clothes that became her trademark, epitomised by her work in matte jersey, and in particular her jersey dresses, which brought her legendary status in an internationally-renowned career that spanned four decades. Working with a range of fabrics, which apart from her matte jersey included wools, silks, suedes, leather, and fine cashmere, she was the first designer on the international stage to apply couture quality and craftsmanship in her collections. Whilst the French accorded her the title 'la nouvelle Reine de la Robe', the actress Joanna Lumley, a Jean Muir house model in the '70s, who has worn Muir designs ever since, famously stated that, 'every woman should have a Jean Muir in her wardrobe'. Her designs were constant favourites with artistic, literary, and dramatic personalities drawn to the discreet luxe and timeless femininity of her clothes: Dame Judi Dench, Dame Maggie Smith, Lady Olivier, Charlotte Rampling, Lauren Bacall, Barbra Streisand, Bridget Riley, Dame Elisabeth Frink, Lady Antonia Fraser, Dame Diana Rigg, whose actress daughter, Rachael Stirling now also wears Muir. This beautifully illustrated book highlights the variety and appeal of a career that covered every aspect of the fashion world, and includes many of Muir's sketches, as well as photography by Norman Parkinson, David Bailey, Eric Boman, Barry Lategan, Sarah Moon, Deborah Turbeville, Helmut Newton and Arthur Elgort. It has written contributions from Lady Antonia Fraser, Sir Roy Strong, Bridget Riley, Suzy Menkes, Fashion Editor of The International Herald Tribune, and Alexandra Shulman, Editor-in-Chief of British VOGUE, amongst others.

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Book Synopsis"This beautiful and sumptuous hardback book published by the Antique Collectors' Club (ACC Publishing Group) features hundreds of original sketches, drawings and photographs from a career spanning eight decades, many never been seen before now." Candy Says Hardy Amies epitomised understated British couture, emphasising the cut of fine materials by tailored construction. Untrained in dress-making, he achieved headlines in Vogue in 1937 with his 'Panic' suit, a reconstructed design of a staple in every woman's wardrobe, wittily named to reflect current events. Evoking the glamour of pre-war London while meeting the demands of contemporary society's activities - town to country, morning to night - Amies designs drew a star-studded clientele. His war-time 'utility' designs revealed his design philosophy (and partly concealed his role as head of the Belgian Section of SOE), unveiling a needle-sharp intelligence and intuition for the changing world of fashion, his elegant execution of which was rewarded through the influential seal of approval by HM Queen Elizabeth II, as Princess Elizabeth, in 1950. The first post-war international designer to visit the USA, Amies' luxurious style produced lucrative global business opportunities, including ready-to-wear, menswear shown as couture, and wide-ranging merchandising options.

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Book SynopsisThis entertaining A to Z follows the success of the popular V&A guides to Style and Hollywood Style. Compiled by Kate Bethune, it brings together style tips, pithy advice and engaging opinions in a beautiful book that will make a perfect present for anyone getting ready for a wedding, or indeed recovering from one. Where fashion has always moved on swiftly from season to season, bridal wear can keep a trend or style current for several years or longer – maintaining perennial favourites and occasional revivals. Concentrating on wedding style, but also featuring thoughts on etiquette and history, this book captures some of the abiding wisdom and witticisms that surround the Happy Day.

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