Fashion and textile design Books

Book SynopsisFrom artist to curator, couturier to fashion blogger, creative' professional identities can be viewed as social practices, enacted, performed and negotiated through the media, the public, and industry. Fashioning Professionals addresses what it means to be a creative professional, historically and in the digital age, as new ways of working and doing business have given rise to new professional identities. Bringing together critical reflections from international researchers, the book spans fashion, design, art, architecture, and advertising. It examines both traditional and emergent roles in creative industries, from advertising executives and surrealist artists to mannequin designers, pop stylists, bloggers, makers and design curators. The book reveals how professional identities are continually in a state of fashioning, through style, taste, gender and cultural representation, highlighting moments of friction and flux in the creative labour of the global economy. InterTrade ReviewAn excellent resource for scholars who are interested in fashion, representation, and identity ... Provides insight into the fragile, and fluctuating nature of in the creative industries and as such, will be of interest to readers from a variety of fields. * The Journal of Dress History *Pulling together far reaching ideas with the concept of “fashioning,” the authors open the analysis beyond the usual suspects of dress, the fashion system, or self-expression ... the essays collected here will please and challenge readers from a broad swathe of scholarly fields. -- from the Foreword by Elizabeth Wissinger, Professor of Sociology, City University of New York, USAExploring design, fashion, architecture, and art, this series of essays offers new and provoking insights into shifting conceptions of professional identities in the creative industries. -- Cheryl Buckley, University of Brighton, UKTable of ContentsList of Illustrations List of Contributors Foreword Acknowledgements Introduction: Fashioning Professionals: History, Theory and Method Leah Armstrong and Felice McDowell I. Inventing 1. Media in the Museum: Fashioning the Design Curator at the Boilerhouse Gallery, Victoria and Albert Museum, London, Liz Farrelly 2. Fashioning Pop: Stylists, Fashion Work and Popular Music Imagery, Rachel Lifter 3. The Labor of Fashion Blogging, Agnès Rocamora II. Negotiating 4. Fashioning Professional Identity in the British Advertising Industry: The Women’s Advertising Club of London, 1923-1939: 95-114, Philippa Haughton 5. Satirical Representations of the Bauhaus Architect in Simplicissimus Magazine: 115-133, Isabel Rousset 6. The Self as an Art-Work: Performative Self-Representation in the Life and Work of Leonor Fini: 134-155, Andrea Kollnitz III. Making 7. Designer Unknown: Documenting the Mannequin Maker, June Rowe 8. Fashioning the Contemporary Artist: The Spatial Biography of Sue Tompkins, Caroline Stevenson 9. The Maker 2.0: A Craft-Based Approach to Understanding a New Creative Identity, Catharine Rossi Index

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Book SynopsisUniform: Clothing and Discipline in the Modern World examines the role uniform plays in public life and private experience. This volume explores the social, political, economic, and cultural significance of various kinds of uniforms to consider how they embody gender, class, sexuality, race, nationality, and belief. From the pageantry of uniformed citizens to the rationalizing of time and labour, this category of dress has enabled distinct forms of social organization, sometimes repressive, sometimes utopian. With thematic sections on the social meaning of uniform in the military, in institutions, and political movements, its use in fashion, in the workplace, and at leisure, a series of case studies consider what sartorial uniformity means to the history of the body and society.Ranging from English public school uniform to sacred dress in the Vatican, from Australian airline uniforms to the garb worn by soldiers in combat, Uniform draws attention to a visual and material Trade ReviewWhat does it mean to wear a uniform? How does uniformity transform bodies? These are just two of the questions addressed in this book. The answers are revealing, complex, and utterly compelling. A "must read" for anyone curious about the power of clothes in the modern world. * Joanna Bourke, Birkbeck, University of London, UK *Rigorous, theoretically rich, transnational and transhistorical in scope, this book brings exciting new perspectives to the study of dress, institutions and disciplinary power. * Ilya Parkins, University of British Columbia, Canada *Innovative and fascinating … a much needed approach to uniform as embedded social practice. * Sophie Woodward, University of Manchester, UK *[A]n invaluable resource for students of fashion, clothing, dress history and cultural studies. * Kevin Almond, University of Leeds, UK *Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Notes on Contributors Acknowledgments 1 Understanding Uniform: An Introduction - Jane Tynan and Lisa Godson Part One: Uniforming Political Movements 2 The Public Order Act: Defining Political Uniform in 1930s Britain - Annebella Pollen 3 Revolutionary Culture, Girl Power, and the Red Guard Uniform During the Chinese Cultural Revolution - Li Li Part Two: Uniforming Institutions 4 Uniform Adoption in English Public Schools, 1830–1930 - Kate Stephenson 5 Dissolving Vatican Uniform Hegemony: The Marist Road to Dress Freedom - William J. F. Keenan Part Three: Uniforming Leisure 6 Fashionably Rational: The Evolution of Uniformed Leisure in Late Nineteenth-Century Britain - Geraldine Biddle-Perry 7 Uniformity in Fashion Practices During the Modernization Period in Turkey - F. Dilek Himam Part Four: Uniforming Workers 8 Uniforming the Corporate Body in the City of London - Samira Guerra 9 A Cast of Thousands: Martin Grant and the New Qantas Uniform - Prudence Black Part Five: Uniforming Fashion 10 Overalls: Functional, Political, Fashionable - Djurdja Bartlett 11 Utility Chic: Where Fashion and Uniform Meet - Jane Tynan Part Six: Uniforming the Military 12 Military Uniform and Lethal Targeting in International Law on Armed Conflict - Amin Parsa 13 Military Uniforms and Women in the Ulster Defence Regiment - Stephen Herron Conclusion Notes Select Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisAlison Gwilt is Associate Professor in Design at the University of New South Wales and Adjunct Senior Research Fellow at the University of South Australia, Australia and author of A Practical Guide to Sustainable Fashion (2014) and Fashion Design For Living (2015).Alice Payne is Professor and Dean of the School of Fashion and Textiles, RMIT, Melbourne, Australia. Evelise Anicet Ruthschilling is Full Professor at the Art Institute of the Federal University of Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil.Trade ReviewGlobal Perspectives on Sustainable Fashion is a must-read for anyone interested in individual and collective efforts to improve the sustainability of the global fashion industry. * Selvedge Magazine *The most comprehensive overview of continent- and country-based sustainable principles and practice, investigating localized companies with innovative approaches to business models. I will be using this book at both the university and industry levels—its value runs deep. -- Annie Gullingsrud, California College of the Arts, USATable of ContentsList of Illustrations List of Contributors Acknowledgements Foreword 1. Introduction 2. Part 1 – Latin America 3. Part 2 – North America 4. Part 3 – Europe 5. Part 4 – Asia (Western, Central, South Central, Eastern) 6. Part 5 – South East Asia and Oceania 7. Part 6 – Africa and the Middle East 8. Concluding Remarks from the Editors Further Resources Index

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Book SynopsisKatherine Townsend is Associate Professor of Fashion and Textile Crafts at Nottingham Trent University, UK, and co-editor of the Craft Research journal.Rhian Solomon is a Visual Artist questioning materialities of the human body through socially engaged arts practice. Her work draws parallels between skin and cloth, the body and dress to inspire future design innovation.Amanda Briggs-Goode is Head of Department for Fashion, Textiles and Knitwear Design and Professor of Textiles at Nottingham Trent University, UK, and author of several books including Textile Design (2013).Trade ReviewThis anthology poses a critical, creative, stimulating and timely challenge to textile designers, makers and consumers in the 21st century It is essential reading for students and researchers. Crafting Anatomies provokes, probes and gets inside the tensions that often exist when individuals cross disciplinary boundaries but emerge the richer in all aspects of practice. Crafting methodologies and reflective analysis are celebrated as a form of material intelligence through a series of case studies, archives, exhibition reviews, collaborative science based labs and studios, examining in detail the archived body, the body in dialogue and the fabricated body. Great stuff. * Janis Jefferies, Goldsmiths, University of London, UK *Crafting Anatomies is a welcome addition to the discourse surrounding the relationship between skin, body and fashion. The editors have successfully brought together an interesting variety of different voices in order to form a stimulating and satisfying bridge between the archive and future technologies. * Lesley Millar, University of the Creative Arts, UK *Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Notes on Contributors Foreword Acknowledgments 1. Introduction: Crafting Anatomies - Katherine Townsend, Rhian Solomon, and Amanda Briggs-Goode I. The Archived Body edited by Amanda Briggs-Goode 2. The Archived Lace Body: Contemporary artist designer responses - Amanda Briggs-Goode and Gail Baxter 3. Disarmed: Lasting impressions - Jo Cope and Johannes Reponen 4. Dis-Comforting, Pioneering, and Re-Materializing: Crafting understanding of older men’s experiences of ageing through their personal archives - Ania Sadkowska 5. The Electric Corset and Other Future Histories - Katherine Townsend, Sarah Kettley, and Sarah Walker II. The Body in Dialogue edited by Rhian Solomon 6. Fashion and Participation in Hands of X - Andrew Cook and Graham Pullin 7. Tissue Engineered Textiles: Craft’s place in the laboratory - Amy Congdon, Lucy Di Silvio, and Carole Collet 8. Mind-Body-Garment-Cloth - Holly McQuillan and Timo Rissanen 9. Empowerment and Self-Care: Designing for the female body - Giulia Tomasello and Teresa Almeida III. The Fabricated Body edited by Katherine Townsend 10. Our Own Skin: The development of 3D printed footwear inspired by human skin - Manolis Papastavrou, Liz Ciokajlo, and Rhian Solomon 11. Material Robotics: Shaping the sensitive Interface - Amy Winters 12. The Genetics Gym - Adam Peacock 13. The Body as Factory: A post-productivist fashion practice through film - Lara Torres Discussion 14. On Fashioning Anatomy - Joanne Entwistle and Katherine Townsend Index

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Book SynopsisPam Inder is an independent scholar and was formerly Curator of Applied Arts at first Exeter and then Leicestershire Museums (specialising in dress history), after being an Assistant Curator at Birmingham City Art Gallery. She later taught at Staffordshire and De Montfort Universities, UK. She is the author of the companion book, Busks, Basques and Brush-braid (Bloomsbury, 2020).

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Book SynopsisWith contributions from leading experts, this edited collection presents original research on the skills brought by immigrant communities to the textile and fashion industries, from the early modern to postmodern periods in Asia and the Islamic World, Europe, Africa, and the Americas. Manufacturing of textiles and apparel is arduous work, which historically depended on skilled artisans, inexpensive labor, and the introduction of labor-saving technology. Immigrant communities supplied much of the work force, bringing their own skill sets to new locations, leading to the development of new manufacturing centers and an increase in both production and technical expertise. Throughout the volume, the role of migration and immigrant involvement in manufacturing is also examined in relation to trade, politics, and socio-religious circumstances prompting relocation. Deconstructing the question of provenance by examining the cultural identity of migrant populations, the research brings to li

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Book SynopsisMotherhood, whether achieved through biological or other means, is not a rare experience; dressing oneself, even less so. The two phenomena are intimately linked, as both occur on and to the private body, and are also fully subject to social pressures and the changing tides of public opinion. They also, for anyone who experiences motherhood, define one another and work together to shape an individual's identity and place in their culture. This rich collection explores the essential question of how motherhood and fashion interact, interrogating their relationships to power, misogyny, temporality, longing and embodiment, among other themes. The 13 essays examine representations on film, in popular print and literature; they use images, narrative and material evidence from the past to excavate the historical cleavages in how mothers have been expected to hide, display, share and sacrifice their bodies. An international range of scholars explores the 19th to the 21st centuries, tracing h

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Book SynopsisUsing image and film advertisements, interviews, social media and public and private archives, Luxury Fashion and Media Communication offers an interdisciplinary approach to analyzing the value of the luxury object. Regular reports on consumption in media and frequent advertising on social media have allowed people all over the world to share in the issues and development of luxury; but how is it communicated, and how has it affected the consumer?An international range of scholars explore the material and immaterial value and meaning of luxury, how it is materialized and how it is communicated between the luxury industry and the consumer. Investigating French, Italian and Spanish luxury brands and their communication strategies on the global market, and including two chapters focusing specifically on the Chinese and American markets, they examine the ambiguity of the luxury commodity. This volume shows particularly the conflicting narratives between the idea of exclusivity and human sk

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Book SynopsisPhilip Clarke is course leader of the Fashion Communication pathways at Central Saint Martins, London, UK. His teaching and research interests centre on visual communication and image-making in the field of fashion, focusing on the role of the stylist. Philip has authored chapters in Architecture Filmmaking (2020) eds. Troiani & Campbell, and Fashion Stylists: History, Meaning and Practice (Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2020) ed. Lynge-Jorlén.

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Book SynopsisThrough a variety of archival documents, artefacts, illustrations, and references to primary and secondary literature, On the Job explores the changing styles, business practices, and lived experiences of the people who make, sell, and wear service-industry uniforms in the United States. It highlights how the uniform business is distinct from the fashion business, including how manufacturing developed outside of the typical fashion hubs such as New York City; and gives attention to the ways that various types of employers (small business, corporate, government and others) differ in their ambitions and regulations surrounding uniforms. On the Job sheds new light on an understudied yet important field of dress and clothing within everyday life, and is an essential addition to any fashion historian's library, appealing to all those interested in material culture, the service industry, heritage and history.

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