Fashion and textile design Books

Book SynopsisLouise Wallenberg is Associate Professor of Fashion Studies and holds a PhD in Cinema Studies. She was the establishing Director of the Centre for Fashion Studies, 2006-2013.Andrea Kollnitz is is Associate Professor of Art History and Senior Lecturer at the Centre for Fashion Studies at Stockholm University.Trade ReviewOverall, this is an enjoyable book … [W]ill be of interest to general scholars of the modernist period as well as those with a specific interest in dress and fashion history. * The Journal of Dress History *Table of ContentsList of Figures Notes on Contributors Acknowledgments Introduction by Louise Wallenberg and Andrea Kollnitz PART I: ‘Fashion, Change, Modernism’ 1.Sven-Olov Wallenstein, ‘Tarde, Simmel and the Logic of Fashion’ 2.Patrizia Calefato, ‘Italian Futurismo and Fashion’ 3.Ulrich Lehmann, ‘Modernism v. Feminism: George Sand, Paul Gavarni and Trousers for Women’ 4.Louise Wallenberg, ‘Ménilmontant: Time, Space and Urbanity’ 5.Olga Vainshtein, ‘Designing the Future: Constructivist Laboratory of Fashion’ PART II: ‘Creators and Creations’ 6.Caroline Evans, ‘Paris-New York 1925: Jean Patou’s Advertising’ 7.Alessandra Vaccari, ‘The Slit Skirt: Fashion and Empathy in the Tango Era’ 8.Andrea Kollnitz, ‘Look at Me! Fashion as Expression and Strategy in Isaac Grünewald’s and Sigrid Hjertén’s Painting and Self–Staging’ 9.Astrid Söderbergh Widding, ‘Mago’s Modernism: Fashion and the Modern from Smiling Summer Night to Hour of the Wolf’ Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisAisling McKeefry is Head of Design at online retail giant ASOS.com, where she oversees the design of all ASOS branded footwear, bags, accessories, and jewellery. With more than a decade of fashion design experience, she has collaborated with such notable designers as Matthew Williamson, Julian McDonald, Jasper Conran, Henry Holland, and Ben de Lisi.Table of ContentsIntroduction Core Skills 1. Design 2. Illustration 3. Understanding Fabric 4. Garment Construction 5. Selling Yourself, Your Brand, Your Product 6. Careers and Professional Skills Glossary Index

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Book SynopsisShortlisted for the Association of Dress Historians Book of the Year Award, 2021Libertine practices have long been associated with transgression and social deviance. This innovative book is the first to focus fully on the relationship between libertinism as a social phenomenon and as a form of fashion. Taking the reader from early modernity to the present day, Adam Geczy and Vicki Karaminas reveal how the connection between clothing and the taboo, the erotic, and the forbidden is at the heart of libertine fashion. Moving from the decadent courts of Charles II and Louis XV to the catwalks of the 21st century, Libertine Fashion examines literary and sartorial figures ranging from the Marquis de Sade and Lord Byron to Oscar Wilde, Josephine Baker, Colette, and Madonna. Focusing on libertinism as a sartorial practice and identity, this book traces the genealogy of the concept through the proto feminists of the English Reformation, the hedonistic decadents of the fin de sTrade ReviewAt once historically rich, learned, and playful, Libertine Fashion is a scholarly, sexy parade through fashion history with frisky side embellishments that reframe accepted thinking of the Libertine in new and thought provoking ways. * The Journal of Dress History *Wide in scope and pacily written, the book successfully pulls together a diverse body of scholarship and poses challenging arguments for the broad readership at which it is aimed. * Cultural and Social History: The Journal of the Social History Society *An illuminating reading of the phenomenon of libertinism engaging with the power of fashion and style ... An essential and comprehensive reading and a valuable resource for researchers, students and scholars of fashion, cultural studies, gender, and sexuality. * Zone Moda Journal *What does it mean to give oneself over to pleasure in dress without compromise? In Libertine Fashion Geczy and Karaminas provide provocative answers. With intelligence and wit their case studies and wide-ranging references bring sartorial libertinism alive, offering an original and much needed history of this fascinating terrain for a new generation. * Chris Breward, National Museums Scotland, UK *Making a significant contribution to critical literature, and highly entertaining to read with a pleasing lightness of touch, Libertine Fashion illuminates social and sexual rebellion, complex encounters, bizarre dalliances and innovative experiments in behaviour, manners and dress; it brings a fresh perspective to the study of fashion, gender and sexuality. * Pamela Church Gibson, London College of Fashion, UK *Both lively and scholarly, Libertine Fashion sheds new light on one of the most sensational and underestimated aspects of European cultural history. Geczy and Karaminas offer a compelling overview of transgressive fashion practices and ideologies, combining extensive research with imaginative interpretation. This provocative and witty study of Libertine tradition demonstrates the centrality of fashion for subverting gender stereotypes. * Olga Vainshtein, Russian State University for the Humanities, Russia *Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Ackowledgements Introduction: Nuancing the Libertine 1. The Merry and Scandalous Court of Charles II 2. The Divine Marquis and the Golden Age of Libertinism 3. The Byronic Hero 4. Decadent Androgynes and Masculine Impersonators: George Sand, Rachilde and Collette 5. Bizarre Dandyism and Decadence: Oscar Wilde 6. From Harlem and Pigalle: Josephine Baker 7. Postmodern Libertinism and Glam Rock: David Bowie 8. Disciplinary Regimes: The Perversity of Jean-Paul Gaultier Conclusion: We are All Libertines Now Notes Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisModern Fashion Traditions questions the dynamics of fashion systems and spaces of consumption outside the West. Too often, these fashion systems are studied as a mere and recent result of globalization and Western fashion influences, but this book draws on a wide range of non-Western case studies and analyses their similarities and differences as legitimate fashion systems, contesting Eurocentric notions of tradition and modernity, continuity versus change, and the West versus the Rest'. Preconceptions about non-Western fashion are challenged through diverse case studies from international scholars, including street-style identity in Bhutan, the influence of Ottoman cultural heritage on contemporary Turkish fashion design, and an investigation into the origins of the word fashion' in Chinese. Negotiating tradition, foreign influences and the contemporary global dominance of Western fashion cities, Modern Fashion Traditions will give readers a clearer understanding of non-Trade ReviewFrom Indian dresses adorned with holy writing to youth fashion blogs in Bhutan, from the modern re-evaluation of Ottoman costumes to the role of plastic bags in South African art and design, Modern Fashion Traditions examines fashion cultures in non-Western regions, many of which are newcomers to studies of fashion and dress. This is a lively, important, and illuminative collection for any student interested in non-Western cultures, particularly South, South East, and Far East Asian and African regions. -- Masafumi Monden, University of Technology Sydney, AustraliaTable of Contents1. Introduction M. Angela Jansen, London College of Fashion, UK, and Jennifer Craik, Queensland University of Technology, Australia PART I: FASHION HISTORY REVISED 2. Neither East nor West: Japanese Fashion in Modernity Toby Slade, University of Tokyo, Japan 3. ‘Fashion’ in the Chinese Context Christine Tsui, University of Hong Kong, China PART II: THE COMMODIFICATION OF CULTURAL HERITAGE 4. Being Fashionable in India in the Globalisation Era: Holy Writing on Garments Janaki Turaga, Independent Researcher, India 5. Exotic Narratives in Fashion: The Impact of Motifs of Exotica on Fashion Design and Fashionable Identities Jennifer Craik, Queensland University of Technology, Australia PART III: SELF-ORIENTALISM OR NATION BRANDING? 6. Ottoman Costume in the Context of Modern Turkish Fashion Design S¸akir Özüdog?ru, Anadolu University, Turkey 7. Beldi Sells: The Commodification of Moroccan Fashion M. Angela Jansen, London College of Fashion, UK PART IV: LOCAL CONSTRUCTS OF THE GLOBAL 8. History, Art, and Plastic Bags: Viewing South Africa Through Fashion Victoria L. Rovine, University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, USA 9. Constructing Fashionable Dress and Identity in Bhutan Emma Dick, Middlesex University, UK PART V: CONCLUSION 10. Afterword: Fashion’s Fallacy Sandra Niessen, Independent Anthropologist, The Netherlands Index

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Book SynopsisYasmin K. Sekhon Dhillon is Professor of Luxury Marketing and Associate Dean (Equality, Diversity and Inclusion) at Winchester School of Art, University of Southampton, UK.Jo Norman was, until her death in 2018, a lecturer on multi-sensory design at Kingston University, UK, and director of Pandora Fragrance Consultancy.

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Book SynopsisExamining histories of post-war Britain, fashion, modelling, photography and popular culture, 1960s Model Girl: Narrative Identities in Fashion, Time and History explores model girl narratives found throughout media, fashion magazines, advice literature, auto/biographies and fashion exhibits.Introducing theories of history, life-writing and narrative identity, 1960s Model Girl demonstrates how these can be applied to the study of fashion and shows how fashion studies open new pathways to understanding identity and emergent British femininities. Drawing on a wealth of archival research, case studies include teen fashion magazines Petticoat and Model Girl; advice writing of model agent Lucie Clayton and fashion journalist Suzy Menkes; autobiographies of fashion models Jean Shrimpton and Twiggy; and the Mary Quant exhibition, Victoria and Albert Museum, London (2019-2020).This book provides an intricate study of a varied and man

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Book SynopsisYuniya Kawamura is Professor of Sociology in the Social Sciences Department at the Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, USA. She is the author of The Japanese Revolution in Paris Fashion (2004) Fashion-ology: An Introduction to Fashion Studies (2005, 2018), Fashioning Japanese Subcultures (2012), Sneakers: Fashion, Gender, and Subculture (2016).Trade ReviewKawamura's book is a useful first step into academic research methods for students looking for brief overviews, tips on techniques, and suggestions for further reading ... this is an ideal reference book for students studying fashion from an academic perspective, especially those new to the application of critical methodologies. Lecturers will also find it useful as a resource when compiling teaching materials for undergraduates. * The Journal of Dress History *Table of ContentsIntroduction: History and Development of Fashion Studies 1. Theory and Practice 2. Research Process 3. Ethnography 4. Survey 5. Semiotics 6. Object-based Research 7. Internet Sources and Online Ethnography 8. Other Methodologies 9. Writing Up Conclusion: Future opportunities and avenues of fashion studies research

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Book SynopsisParis, Capital of Fashion accompanies a major exhibition at The Museum at FIT, New York's only museum dedicated solely to the art of fashion. This lavishly-illustrated book is edited by MFIT's director and chief curator, Valerie Steele, also the author of the acclaimed Paris Fashion: A Cultural History. This new book opens with an important essay on how and why Paris became famous as the international capital of fashion.Steele traces how the mythic aura of Paris fashion was constructed over generations, as the splendour of the court at Versailles came to be echoed by the spectacle of the haute couture. Yet Paris has faced repeated challenges from other fashion capitals, especially London, Milan, and New York. Essays by Christopher Breward, David Gilbert, Grazia d'Annunzio, and Antonia Finnane place Paris within a broader global narrative, while Sophie Kurkdjian investigates the cultural value of the Parisian couture, and Agnès Rocomora explores the online imagery of the Trade ReviewInsightful ... One of the fundamental strengths of this publication is its multifaceted approach to Paris ... A valuable resource for students and academics of fashion and social history. * The Journal of Dress History *This striking book unpacks the mysteries of French fashion as material product and patrimony of a creative nation. Fashion worlds from Shanghai to Milan are studied here for the first time with a French accent, in this lavishly illustrated and imaginatively argued book. * Peter McNeil FAHA, University of Technology Sydney, Australia *Fashion may be a global enterprise, but Paris, its legendary capital, is too often considered a place apart. This brilliant book situates Paris in a larger context and is indispensable reading for anyone who cares about the wide world of high style. * Caroline Weber, author of Proust’s Duchess and Queen of Fashion *In this outstanding collection Steele convenes a distinguished group of diverse historians. The result is an illuminating analysis of the mythic power both Paris and fashion hold in our consciousness. * Susan Hiner, Vassar University, USA *This excellent book, brought together by the pioneering historian of Paris fashion at her best, exploresan often ignored aspect of the story: how fashion “capitals” get to be fashion capitals and how different contenders for the title vie with each other for acceptance and supremacy. * Steve Zdatny, University of Vermont, USA *Offering both historical context and contemporary analysis, Paris, Capital of Fashion is an engaging collection of essays from an international roster of noted scholars. It provides insight into the symbiotic relationship of Paris with other fashion capitals, explores the unique cultural heritage of the Parisian fashion industry, and questions the cultural touchstone of the fashionable Parisienne. * Clare Sauro, Drexel University, USA *Table of ContentsIntroduction: Valerie Steele Chapter 1: Paris, "Capital of Fashion" Valerie Steele Chapter 2: Paris, London, Shanghai: Touring the Fashion Imaginary Christopher Breward Chapter 3: Paris, New York, London, Milan ... Paris and a world order of fashion capitals David Gilbert Chapter 4: Paris and A Tale of Italian Cities Grazia D’Annunzio Chapter 5: Between Beijing and Shanghai: fashion in the Party state Antonia Finnane Chapter 6: The Cultural Value of Parisian Couture Sophie Kurkdjian Chapter 7: #parisienne: Social Media Stratification in Visions of Parisian Women Agnès Rocamora Notes Image List Bibliography Notes on Contributors Acknowledgments Index

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Book SynopsisAngela Davies is Associate Professor in textile and garment technology at De Montfort University, UK. She has been principal and co-investigator on several regionally, nationally and internationally funded projects, working with technical textile and medical enterprises to develop new products and processes. Her research interests include product performance and quality control; sustainable textile development; medical, technical and performance textiles; wearable technologies; product development for durability and longevity; and textile end of life management, including biodegradation and composting.

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Book SynopsisDonatella Barbieri is Senior Research Fellow in Design for Performance at London College of Fashion, UK, and, previously, at the Victoria and Albert Museum, UK.With contributions from Melissa Trimingham, Senior Lecturer in Drama at the University of Kent, UK.Trade ReviewBeautifully produced. * Times Literary Supplement *[A] richly illustrated, compelling analysis of historical and contemporary costume design. The book successfully provokes a scholarly conversation that makes a marked departure from the kind of how-to book or fashion history that tends to dominate the shelves ... [It] ... explores interdisciplinary theoretical territory and makes broader arguments about the function of costume within a variety of performance genres, time-periods, and sociopolitical contexts. * Theatre Topics *This richly illustrated book presents a range of lenses for the study of costume for performance. The ambitious breadth of topics and periods covered [gives] a tantalising taste of interdisciplinary theories and methods ... This ambitious work is a significant step forward in this emerging field and offers a beautifully illustrated introduction to a wide range of theories and methods for analysing costume for performance. It is an important book for students and scholars in this field. * The Journal of Dress History *Barbieri (London College of Fashion, UK) offers a refreshing look at costumes and their use throughout history in creation, use, and affect in the development of live performance. The author finds connections between contemporary work and historical costume in pageantry, theater, and dance. Six chapters take up a wide variety of topics, exploring for example the transformative ritual of costume, costuming of choruses, the grotesque “Other” body, flying technology and costume, and costume in the present representing the past. Chapter 5, contributed by Trimingham (drama and theater, Univ. of Kent, UK), offers a compelling look at the effective power of costume as art. This well-written, beautifully illustrated book brings to light the importance of costume to live performance in terms of its preparation and presentation. Drawing examples from ancient Greece as well as a wide variety of European theater, from medieval theater to more contemporary and experimental productions, this book is sure to become required reading for students and scholars of costume design and history. Summing Up: Highly recommended. Lower-division undergraduates through faculty and professionals, including students in technical programs. * CHOICE *This is essential reading for anyone interested in performance and costumes, providing an exciting and accessible scholarly exploration of the uses and significance of costumes from prehistoric ritual to contemporary theater. It is valuable for its international range of productions and detailed descriptions of significant costumes, including dance, circus performance, street theater and traditional stage. -- Patricia Lennox, New York University, USADonatella Barbieri has crafted a unique and intriguing way of looking at the history of costumes for performance. Drawing on case studies and in-depth analysis of performance costume, this book is a marvelous addition for researchers in the costume discipline. -- Colleen Muscha, School of Theatre, College of Fine Arts, Florida State University, USAThis poetic work is a tour de force of lively research and imagination. Charting the transformation of performance costume across time, space and material, Barbieri, with Trimigham, takes us from the Ancient Greek chorus to modern trapeze artists, revealing how costume creates new thresholds of human experience. -- Peter McNeil, University of Technology, Sydney, AustraliaWith compelling scholarship and great artistic sensitivity, Barbieri deftly explores the cultural, societal and creative agency of the costumed and performing body. In tracing the complex artistic, historical and cultural journey from every day clothing through the designer to the cutting table to the stage costume, this magnificently illustrated book makes an absolutely essential contribution to our understanding of scenography. -- Christopher Baugh, University of Leeds, UKDonatella Barbieri’s own breadth of skills as a passionate lecturer, an inspiring teacher and a practitioner are all evident in this wonderful and uncompromising new book. Through the agility of her themes and connections from paleolithic cave painting to the most recent performances or archival discoveries, she never loses sight of the metamorphic power of costume. This is a daring and inspiring book. -- Judith Clark, Research Centre for Fashion Curation, University of the Arts London, UK.Table of ContentsPreface Introduction 1 The First Costume: Ritual and Reinvention 2 Costuming Choruses: Spectacle and the Social Landscape on Stage 3 The Grotesque Costume: The Comical and Conflicted ‘Other’ Body 4 The Flight off the Pedestal 5 Agency and Empathy: Artists Touch the Body 6 A Different Performativity: Society, Culture and History on Stage Notes Selected Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisJulie Holyoke is affiliated with the Lisio Foundation, Florence, Italy. A pioneer in the use of digital technologies for wovens, she has worked for three decades as an educator at universities and mills in Italy and beyond, while designing interiors and fashion textiles for both industrial and handwoven productions.Trade Review[T]his book is an excellent resource for students of jacquard, but more than that, it is a compilation of inspiration for any artist. With the resurgence of interest in making cloth, this book will surely guide many non-weavers through this fascinating terrain … It is a book you will want to have out, handy, just to browse through for inspiration when you are feeling dull. -- Bhakti Ziek * Surface Design Association *An excellent resource for visual learners, this book provides a wealth of technical analysis and inspiring documentation of Jacquard weaving. Numerous color photographs, including microscopic details, color diagrams, notations and concise text clearly illustrate how this distinctive vocabulary is considered and applied in the creation of figured cloth. * Janice Lessman-Moss, Professor and Head of Textile Art, Kent State University, USA *This book is a very useful source of information for any weaver who wants to explore and extend their practice into the realm of digital Jacquard design. Julie Holyoke, through her extensive experience and knowledge of this specialised discipline, brings together a diverse range of information from the spheres of both technology and design methodology. Through well-illustrated examples she explains clearly all the important elements that need to be considered for the creation of Jacquard wovens with today’s tools. * Ismini Samanidou, independent textile designer and artist *At long last a book which will develop students' knowledge of Jacquard. -- Nicola Redmore, Huddersfield University, UKIt is gorgeous in every way. I love the contrast between the historic textiles and the contemporary ones. Love the case studies of works by a wide range of contemporary artists. Love the balance of design advice and solid technical information. As a professor of weave technology, it is difficult to find relevant texts that are less than 10 years old for my courses. I will recommend this for courses in weave design or technology now. It is also an excellent reference for anyone involved in the study or conservation of historical textiles and fashion. * Patrice George, Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, USA *Beautifully presented book with exciting contemporary work as well as relevant historical imagery: practical and useful to weave students and designers. -- Lesley Mitchison, Manchester Metropolitan University, UKI appreciated the book on two levels: the technical presentation of detailed warp sections; and the drafts that accompany images of cloth to provide a very comprehensive explanation of the cloth’s construction. I also appreciated the case studies giving real life examples of how talented weavers have utilised this technology, providing a human insight into the design approach and potential of the medium … [T]his is a beautiful book, full of wonderful images of textiles both contemporary and historical; surely an inspiration for all. -- Kay Faulkner * Textile Fibre Forum *Primarily a technical text, this volume by educator/practitioner Holyoke explores both the aesthetic and the functional in designing woven jacquard fabrics. Visually strong support images are pulled from both contemporary and historic textiles; with only a few exceptions these are shown at real size or in detail, providing clarity on weave structure and yarn color combinations. This volume would make a strong textbook for advanced weaving courses. It is also an important reference text for weaving studios. Summing Up: Essential. Upper-level undergraduates through professionals/practitioners. -- L. L. Kriner, Berea College * CHOICE *Table of ContentsAcknowledgments and Abbreviations Introduction Part One: The Designer's Skill Set Visual Analysis: Identifying Contrasts Sample Analysis and Documentation: Structure and Design Weave Drafting Methods: Recording, Designing and Reading Weaves Part Two: Technology, Process, Technique Weave-patterning Technology in the Digital Era Design Process and Terminology, from Sketch to Card Figuring Techniques Part Three: Woven Structure, Design and the Jacquard Medium Weave Glossary, Choosing and Building Weaves, Evaluating Weaves Which Comes First: Technique or Design? Case Studies Notes Bibliography Contributors Photography and Illustrations Index

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Book SynopsisPierre-Yves Donzé is professor of business history at Osaka University, Japan and visiting professor at the University of Fribourg, Switzerland. Ben Wubs is professor of international business history at the Erasmus University Rotterdam, the Netherlands.

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Book SynopsisCynthia Fowler is a feminist art historian and professor of art at Emmanuel College, Boston. She received her PhD from the University of Delaware in 2002 and also holds fellowships from the Smithsonian Institute, the Winterthur Museum, and the National Endowment for the Humanities. Previous work includes Hooked Rugs: Encounters in American Modern Art, Craft and Design and Locating American Art: Finding Meaning in Art Museums.Trade ReviewCynthia Fowler has written a key text which examines the lives and significant works of women embroiderers who were practicing at the forefront of ‘modern embroidery' in the United States in the early twentieth century. * Angie Wyman, Course Leader for Hand Embroidery at the Royal School of Needlework, UK *This rigorous account of the Modern Embroidery Movement in America firmly situates stitch within the fine arts of twentieth century art history whilst acknowledging the particular characteristics of working with a marginalised material. Cynthia Fowler's book addresses an important period of art long neglected due to its gendered materials, and is essential art history for artists and embroiderers alike. * Ele Carpenter, Senior Lecturer in Curating at Goldsmiths, University of London, UK *Cynthia Fowler's "The Modern Embroidery Movement" provides an insightful examination of the work of a selection of American artists who turned to embroidery as a medium through which to express their understanding of modernity in visual terms. The author reveals the complex relationship between art, craft, and the decorative, as well as the ways in which all three intersected with industrial production and the social, political and economic rights of women. * Frances Pohl, Professor of Art History at Pomona College, USA *To those readers who—consciously or unconsciously—continue to adhere to the art/craft hierarchy, try not to be persuaded by Fowler’s elegant discussion that positions embroidery as art. This book provides ample primary sources and careful visual analysis as evidence. * Julia Skelly, Faculty Lecturer in Art History at McGill University, Canada *Cynthia Fowler brings to life the work of the artists who formed America’s Modern Embroidery Movement in this beautifully written and richly illustrated book. In recovering their important contributions, Fowler eloquently reveals the central place of embroidery in modern art. * Lorinda Cramer, Research Fellow in Arts and Education at Deakin University, Australia *Table of Contents1. Introduction 2. The Modern Embroidery Movement in Context 3. Marguerite Zorach: The Roots of the Modern Embroidery Movement 4. Georgiana Brown Harbeson and Her Collaborators: Establishing the Modern Embroidery Movement 5. Collaboration 6. Visualizing Manhattan 7. Nature as Symbol 8. Embroidered Portraits 9. Conclusion References Index

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Book SynopsisKyunghee Pyun is Assistant Professor in the History of Art Department at the Fashion Institute of Technology, USA.Minjee Kim is an independent researcher based in San Francisco, USA.Trade ReviewFashion history has been a Eurocentric field for much too long. Dress History of Korea makes an important contribution to the global and interdisciplinary study of dress and fashion. By emphasizing primary sources and case studies, it provides an essential scholarly foundation for future work. * Valerie Steele, The Museum at FIT, New York, USA *Marilyn DeLong's Foreword, plus case study instances, provide examples from early sources through the 21st century that thoroughly document Korean dress. This deep research furnishes scholars and students with more comprehension of and appreciation for Asian dress. * Joanne Eicher, University of Minnesota, USA *Fashion students, fashion historians, and anyone intrigued by Korean history and traditional culture will find this an accessible and informative read. * OverDressed for Life *Table of ContentsList of Illustrations List of Contributors Acknowledgements Notes on the Usage of the Korean Language Introduction 1. Making Dress History in the Context of Primary Sources, Kyunghee Pyun Part 1: Primary Sources - Historiography and Chronological Reviews 2. Identity and Fashion in the Ancient Dress of Korea, Minjee Kim 3. Goryeo (918 – 1392): Dress in Literature, Bulbokjang, and Visual Arts, Jaeyoon Yi 4. Reading Fashion of Joseon (1392 – 1910): Textual Sources with Clothing Illustrations, Ga Young Park 5. Scholarly Discourses on Fashion Change in Late Joseon, Lee Talbot 6. Joseon Portraiture Paintings for Dress and Fashion, Gilhong Min 7. Bodily Ornaments in Korean Archaeology and Dress History, Kyeongmi Joo 8. Shift of Worldview: Changes of Dress in Korea, 1870s – 1910s, Kyungmee Lee 9. Magazines and Photographs for Fashion History of Korea, Yunah Lee Part 2: Case Studies - Museum Practice, Tourism, and Costume Design 10. Chulto boksik (Excavated Dress) and the Collection at Chungbuk National University Museum, In-woo Chang 11. Collection and Exhibition of Dress at the Seok Juseon Memorial Museum, Myung-eun Lee 12. Acquisition of Reproduction and Identification of Mystery Items: Case Studies in Scotland, Rosina Buckland & Minjee Kim 13. Hanbok and Korean Identity: An Anthropological View, Millie Creighton & Elias Alexander 14. Costuming Korean Period Dramas, Minjung E. Lee Selected Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisJon Cope is a Senior Lecturer in Public Relations at Westminster University, London, UKDennis Maloney is Course Leader in Fashion Journalism at University for the Creative Arts, UKTrade ReviewThe content of this book stays true to its title as it vividly explains current fashion promotion with many real-life examples, supported by interviews with industry experts, case studies and wonderful photographs. The structure of the book is suitable for students, as each chapter has learning outcomes, tables, reviews and exercises which can help readers memorise the vibrant material. * Olga Mitterfellner, Mediadesign Hochschule, Germany *Contemporary, relevant, and tuned into what is happening in fashion promotion now. The interviews are vital to the telling of these stories. Dynamic and lively, the book offers an engaging, exciting range of material – and a useful resource to students -- Nilgin Yusuf, former Programme Director for the Media & Communications Programme, London College of Fashion, UKA fabulous new publication and a much-needed addition to the fashion library. Comprehensive, interesting to read, and informative: it is great to see such a lively and inspiring book about contemporary practice in fashion promotion. -- Gill Stark, Head of School, School of Fashion & Design, Regent’s University, London, UKTable of ContentsChapter 1 - Campaign Planning: Making it Happen; Introduction; Putting the P’s into Practice; Planning for Promotion; Case study - The Power of Not Planning: Non-Celebrities go Viral; Interview - Rebecca Grant, Cohn and Wolfe: Planning Fashion Promotion for Non-Fashion Brands; Interview - Cotton Incorporated: Planning to Promote; Chapter Review Chapter 2 - Advertising and Public Relations: From Verbal to Viral; Introduction; The Development of; Integrated Fashion Advertising and PR; Interview - Oliviero Toscani: Fashion Advertising’s Original Bad Boy; Case Study - Calvin Klein: ‘Show Yours. #My Calvin’s’ Campaign; Types of Fashion PR Activity; Advertising and Media Types; Paid, Owned, Earned and Social Media; How to Write a Press Release; Going Native: The Future of Fashion Advertising and PR; Interview: Adam Drawas on the New Face of Fashion PR; Chapter Review Chapter 3 - The Celebrity Role: From Royalty to the Rap Game; Introduction; The Origins of Celebrity in Fashion; Why Use Celebrities?; Does Celebrity Promotion Work?; Choosing and Using Your Celebrity; Industry Perspective - The Future of Celebrity in Fashion Promotion; Industry Perspective -; Working With Celebrities; Celebrities Behaving Badly; Chapter Review Chapter 4 - Collaborations: ‘X’ Marks the Spot; Introduction; Why Collaborate?; Categorizing Fashion Collaborations; Promoting Collaborations; Industry Perspective: Collaborating with Bloggers; Charities Collaborating with Fashion: Environmental Justice Foundation ‘Just For’ Environmental T-Shirt Collaboration; Chapter Review Chapter 5 - The Fashion Show: From Couturier to Catwalk; Introduction; The Fashion Week; The Changing Shape of the Catwalk; The Production On and Off the Catwalk; Catwalk as a Promotional Vehicle: The Communication; The End of the Clique; The Future of the Catwalk; Interview - Fiona Farnsworth, The Catwalk PR; Chapter Review Chapter 6 - Fashion Film: From Hollywood to Hoxton; Introduction ; The Contemporary Fashion Film Creative Film and Narrative; Industry Perspective - Kathryn Ferguson: A Fashion Filmmaker’s Perspective; Fashion Film as a Promotional Vehicle; Interview - Diane Pernet, The Future of Fashion Film: Industry Perspective; Interview - Georgia Hardinge and Josie Roscopp; Interview: Diane Pernet: International Film Festivals; Chapter Review Chapter 7 - Events from Private Parties to Public Performances; Introduction; Events and their Audiences; Public Events; Q&A: Andrea Leonardi, Event Producer, Without Production; Experiential Events; Interview: Katie Baron; Chapter Review Chapter 8 - Visual Merchandising: From Store to Screen; Introduction; Visual Merchandising in History Department Stores; Window Displays: Attracting Attention; The Boutique and Edit; Does Visual Merchandising Work? The Future of Visual Merchandising; Interview: JoAnn Tan: On Curating the Fashion Space; Chapter Review Chapter 9 - The Fashion Magazine: From Print to Pixel; Introduction; Magazines as Promotional Tools; Going Online; Types of Online Sources; A Question of Trust; Going Digital; The Future of the Magazine; Interview: Sébastien Rouchon - On Digital Publishing; Chapter Review Resources Index Acknowledgements Picture Credits

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Book SynopsisFor hundreds of years consumers and scholars have acknowledged that food is affected by the same rapid shifts in taste and consumption as clothing. Trends in fashion and in food are increasingly being marketed in tandem and sold as fashionable commodities to reinforce capitalist power. Yet despite this, the reciprocal relationship between fashion and food has not been fully explored until now.Gastrofashion from Haute Cuisine to Haute Couture examines the relationship between food and fashion in clothing, style, and dress in all its manifestations, from the restaurant to the catwalk, to cookbooks, diet fads, slow food, fast fashion, celebrity chefs, artists, and musical performers. It traces the relationship between food and fashion back to the Middle Ages, to the rise of social refinements in manners, speech, clothing, and taste, when behaviours and appearances reflected social status and propriety and where the social display of wealth and privilege were inseparable from food Trade ReviewHistory, culture and art intersect in an original work to be read in one breath. * Patrizia Calefato, Aldo Moro University, Italy *A timely and lavishly illustrated book on the intertwined destinies of fashion and gastronomy and the convergence of taste and appearance. * Simona Segre Reinach, University of Bologna, Italy *Table of ContentsIllustrations Acknowledgements Introduction: Inside and Out 1. Between the Fashion System and the Food System, Gastronomy and Grande Cuisine 2. Good Taste in Theory and Practice: The Languages of Spectacle and Consumption 3. Food, Fashion and the Modernist Spectacle 4. The First Celebrity Cook and the First Celebrity Dressmaker 5. Cuisine and Couture Culture: The Boutique as a Space of Consumption 6. Hippy to Couture. Slow and Fast Food Fashion 7. The Cult of Slenderness 8. Fashion, Food and Art 9. Fashionable Cookbooks and Celebrity Chefs. Conclusion Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisAlison Slater is Senior Lecturer in Design History at Manchester School of Art, Dept. of Art & Performance, Manchester Metropolitan University, UK. She has contributed to the journal Critical Studies in Fashion and Beauty and her PhD research features in the BBC Radio 4 documentary Rags to Riches.Susan Atkin is Deputy Division Head for Fashion Design at Manchester Fashion Institute, Manchester Metropolitan University, UK. She was previously the designer-owner of womenswear label Electricity.Elizabeth Kealy-Morris is Senior Lecturer in Dress and Belonging at Manchester Fashion Institute, Manchester Metropolitan University, UK. Her research into body dressing work has featured in The Guardian.Trade ReviewThis exciting and interdisciplinary collection of new essays pursues and develops a neglected theme: the presence, role, and importance of individual and cultural memory in the tings we wear ... The essays are individual, substantial, and represent a serious and valuable contribution to the critical theorization and practice of remembrance in and through fashion, clothing, and textiles. * Malcom Barnard, Loughborough University, UK *A diverse and insightful set of perspectives, this anthology reinforces the relevance of auto/biographical memories as a method to explore the motivations and meanings of everyday garments. Profound and poignant insights unfold as the past reverberates in the present through material engagement with clothes. * Hazel Clark, Parsons School of Design, New York, USA *Table of ContentsList of Illustrations List of Contributors Acknowledgements Introduction by Alison Slater, Susan Atkin, and Elizabeth Kealy-Morris Concepts 1. Personal Objects and Dress as Instruments for Anchoring the Self, Remembering the Past, and Enhancing Well-Being by Soljana Çili Histories 2. Remembering Respectability: Collective Memories of Working-Class Dress in Wartime Lancashire by Alison Slater 3. Memories of Making: Home Sewing in Socialist Hungary by Zsofia Juhasz 4. Nostalgia, Myth and Memories of Dress: The Cultural Memory of Madchester by Susan Atkin Objects 5. Wardrobes and Soundtracks: Resources for Memories of Youth by Jo Jenkinson 6. Ken Tynan’s Tommy Nutter Jacket as ‘Materialized Memory’ by Ben Whyman 7. Soft Murmurings: Sensing Memories in Collections of Dress by Jane Webb Practices 8. ‘The American Look’: Memories of Not Fitting In by Elizabeth Kealy-Morris 9. Black/White/Yellow by Elizabeth Chin 10. Cloth(ing) Memories: Rituals of Grieving by Lesley Beale References Index

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Book SynopsisFood and Fashion accompanies a major exhibition at The Museum at FIT, New York's only museum dedicated solely to the art of fashion. This beautifully illustrated book featuring over 100 enticing full-color images, from fashion runways to fine art photography and period cookbooks, examines the influence of food culture through the lens of fashion over the last 250 years. It focuses on the ways that food culture has expressed itself in fashion and how these connect to broader socio-cultural change, examining how vital both have been in expressing cultural movements across centuries, and specifically exploring the role food plays in fashionable expression.With its superb selection of images, and thought-provoking and engaging discussion, Food and Fashion appeals to fashion enthusiasts who have an overlapping interest in food and food studies, including scholars and students, those who enjoy the fashion of food, and all who appreciate the visual culture of food, fashion, and Trade ReviewA significant contribution to the production of knowledge by bringing together ideas from two relatively new, specialized fields: Fashion Studies and Food Studies. * From the Foreword by Valerie Steele *[A] timely and innovative volume that provides in-depth reflections, historical background … The originality of the essays in this volume is in putting together two important aspects of contemporary material life that contribute to the construction of individual and collective identities as well as personal preferences. * From the Foreword by Fabio Parasecoli *From dresses inspired by Marie Antoinette’s ‘Let them eat cake’ quip to outfits resembling chocolate wrappers, this is a compendium of looks that are truly scrumptious. * The i *The expansive collection of essays explores the intersection of food and fashion throughout history, catwalking around concepts of identity, culture and taste – as well as spotlighting issues such as gender and race politics, sustainability and social inequality … Food & Fashion is a deep dive into common and unexpected synergies between the two disciplines. -- Charmaine Mok * South China Morning Post *With beautiful illustrations throughout, Food & Fashion reveals the breadth of conversations that arise when considering these industries in tandem. The book raises interesting ideas about the cultural markers, with roots in commercialism and artistic expression, provoking readers to think about food and fashion from new perspectives. -- Fiona Ibbetson * Selvedge *Bringing together scholars and curators of fashion, this accomplished volume examines fashion’s long standing cultural and historical relationship with food. It will make you think about what you eat and what you wear and by the time you finish reading this book, you’ll be craving for more. * Vicki Karaminas, Professor of Fashion, and co-author of Gastrofashion from Haute Cuisine to Haute Couture *Adventurous, inspiring and challenging … An absolute must-have for food and fashion scholars and for lovers of both. * Kyla Wazana Tompkins, Pomona College, USA *A perfect overview of the different parameters of fashion and food: every culture around the globe uses fashion and food to integrate people and to express ideas about gods, behavior, hierarchy, political systems … Based on excellent research, very well written and super beautiful. * Martin Hablesreiter, Honey & Bunny Vienna, Austria *Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Acknowledgments Preface by Valerie Steele, Director of The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, USA Preface by Fabio Parasecoli, Professor of Food Studies, New York University, USA Introduction: Fashioning Food - Melissa Marra-Alvarez and Elizabeth Way Part 1: Food Meets Fashion: Contemporary and Historical Views 1. From Haute Cooking to Fast Food Chic: The Pairing of Food and Fashion – Melissa Marra-Alvarez 2. Haute Couture, Haute Cuisine – Elizabeth Way 3. Dressed to Dine: The Restaurant as Fashionable, Feminine Space – Elizabeth Way Part 2: Activism: Nature, Labor, and the body 4. Growing Alternatives: Food, Fashion, and the Natural World – Melissa Marra-Alvarez 5. We Feed You: Protest Fashion and the United Farm Workers Union - Michelle McVicker 6. Don't Eat That: Food, Fashion, Dieting, and Disorder - Emma McLendon Part 3: Cultural Representation 7. Wax Print Yams and Watermelon Hats: The African Diaspora in Food and Fashion – Elizabeth Way 8. The Cross-Cultural Transformations of Chinese Food and Fashion – Faith Cooper 9. I piaceri della tavola: Food, Fashion, and Italian identity – Melissa Marra-Alvarez 10. From Zen to Kitsch: Musings on Contemporary Japanese Food and Fashion – Patricia Mears 11. Without Maize There is No Mexico: Fashion & Corn – Tanya Melendez- Escalante Part 4: Art and Visual Culture 12. The Eye Has to Eat: Food, Fashion, and Art’s Enduring Intersects – Madeleine Luckel 13. Avocado Toast and Blonde Salad: Critical Perspectives on Fashion and Food on Instagram – Monica Titton Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisJessica Hemmings is Professor of Crafts and Vice-Prefekt of Research, HDK Academy of Design and Crafts, University of Gothenburg, Sweden. Jessica is editor of The Textile Reader (Berg, 2012), In the Loop: Knitting Now (2010) and author of Warp and Weft: Woven Textiles in Fashion, Art and Interiors (Bloomsbury, 2012). She is a regular contributor of articles and reviews to publications including Crafts, Selvedge, and the Surface Design Journal.Trade ReviewIn the contemporary art world, artists are increasingly exploring what textiles can do and say ... If this kind of thing fascinates you, explore further with [Cultural Threads]. * Irish Times *[A] very readable and well-illustrated ... A very worthwhile book to explore. * The Journal for Weavers, Spinners & Dyers *Cultural Threads sits comfortably between the mainstream and The Academe, occupying an intriguing intersection between worlds and migration stories ... [It] is skillfully designed with large format eye-catching imagery … Collectively, such a text can develop new art audiences excited for the worlds of surface design and textile arts. * Surface Design Journal *I'm a huge fan of this beautifully presented and very readable book … The large format colour images throughout the book leave me feeling that I really do understand what other selected artists have created visually - and the text is intelligent and informative but not overly dense. * Fibre Forum e-bulletin (created on behalf of TAFTA) *Table of ContentsIntroduction Chapter One: Artists’ Statements Julie Ryder: Reflections on Charles Darwin’s South Pacific (Australia) Jorge Lizarazo and Hechizoo: Colombian Voyages and Explorations (Colombia) Cecilia Vicuña: QUIPUing from Santiago, Chile to Sydney, Australia (Chile) Elaine Reichek: Revisiting a Postcolonial Kinderhood in America (USA) Mr Somebody & Mr Nobody: African Design Exported (South Africa) Chapter Two: Dutch Wax Resist Textiles: Roger Gerards, Creative Director of Vlisco, and Jessica Hemmings (National College of Art & Design, Dublin, Republic of Ireland) Chapter Three: An Imagined Africa: Stories told by Contemporary Textiles, Jessica Hemmings (National College of Art & Design, Dublin, Republic of Ireland) Chapter Four: Weaving, Tradition and Tourism in Ghana: “The End of Skill”, Mamle Kabu (Ghana) Chapter Five: Can Pakeha Make Customary Maori Art? A Conversation in New Zealand with Weaver Margaret White and Damian Skinner (New Zealand) Chapter Six: Crafting Difference: Art, Cloth and the African Diaspora, Christine Checinska (University of East London, UK) Chapter Seven: From Brixton to Mostar: Social Practice Through Textiles, Françoise Dupré (Birmingham City University, UK) Chapter Eight: A Post-Slavery Reading of Cotton: Lubaina Himid (University of Central Lancashire, UK) in conversation with Sabine Broeck and Alice Schmid (both of the University of Bremen, Germany) Chapter Nine: Contemporary Textile Imagery in Southern Africa: a Question of Ownership, Sarah Rhodes (Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London, UK) Chapter Ten: Social Sutra: A Platform for Ethical Textiles in Partnerships Between Australia and India, Kevin Murray (Australia) Index

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Book SynopsisRebecca Arnold is a historian who has held posts at The Courtauld Institute, Royal College of Art & Central Saint Martins, London, UK. Her publications include The American Look (2008) , Fashion: A Very Short Introduction (2009), and Avedon Advertising (2019) with Laura Avedon and James Martin.

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Book SynopsisShortlisted for the Association of Dress Historians Book of the Year Award, 2024In 2022, it was reported that plus-sizes accounted for nearly twenty percent of all women's apparel sales in the United States and was one of the industry's few growth sectors. For many, this news seemed to herald a remarkably inclusive turn for an industry that long bartered in exclusivity. Yet the recent success of plus-size fashion obscures a rather complicated historyone that can be traced back over a century, and which illuminates the fraught relationship between fashion, fat, and weight bias in American culture.Although many regard fat as a malady of the present, in the early twentieth century it was estimated that more than one-third of American women classified as overweight. While modern weight bias had yet to fully cement itself in the American imaginary, the limitations of mass garment manufacturing coupled with the ascendent slender beauty ideal had already relegated laTrade ReviewIn this impeccably researched and elegantly written book, Lauren Downing Peters explores the complexity of a topic that remains relevant even 100 years after the invention of “stoutwear” as a fashion category. In content and expression, it exemplifies the best of fashion scholarship and enhances the narrative of 20th-century fashion. * Nancy Deihl, New York University, USA *A fascinating historical genealogy of what we now know today as “plus-size” fashion. Peters’ thorough and extensive historical scholarship, coupled with the clarity of her writing, make this book essential reading for anyone interested to understand the contemporary fashion industry and trace fashion’s obsession with body size and shape. * Joanne Entwistle, King’s College London, UK *The first history of its kind, this book makes an indispensable contribution to the fields of fashion studies, fat studies and cultural history. * Francesca Granata, Parsons School of Design, The New School, USA *Table of ContentsList of Figures Acknowledgments Introduction Fashion Before Plus-Size Re-fashioning Fat History The Slender Ideal, Fat Stigma & Weight Bias A History of Fashion Without Fashion A Note on Terminology Chapter Outline 1. Creating Consumers The New Normal Sizing Up Stoutness Beyond the “Perfect 36” The Problem With Fat 2. Designing for Disorder Building Better Bodies Modernist Fashions, Modernist Bodies Body-as-Canvas The Art & Science of Looking Slender 3. Fitting the Mind The Psychology of Selling Fat Bodies, Thin Skin Fat, Large or Stout? Small Advertisements for Large Sizes 4. Parables of Overweight The Parable of the Deluded The Parable of the Matron The Parable of the Domestic The Parable of the Style Blind 5. The Forgotten Woman The Everywoman: Jane Warren Wells The Vaudevillian: Sophie Tucker The Mother of the Blues: Gertrude “Ma” Rainey Conclusion Fashion’s Slenderness Imperative A Provocation: Toward and Epistemology of “Fat Clothes” Notes Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisDominic Janes is Professor of Modern History at Keele University, UK. He is a cultural historian whose specialism is the study of texts and visual images relating to Britain in its local and international contexts since the eighteenth century. He also teaches and researches on the wider histories of gender, sexuality and religion and is Professorial Fellow in the School of Fine Art and Photography, University for the Creative Arts, UK.Trade ReviewClearly the product of long hours in the archives, Dominic Janes’ Freak to Chic offers a rich array of queer images and texts from the popular press of the first half of the twentieth century to document the creative variety of non-normative embodiments of sex and gender in an era before now-accepted identity labels. * Christopher Reed, Pennsylvania State University, USA *[A] unique intervention in the study of queer culture. * Notches *From Oscar Wilde and Cecil Beaton to flourishing inter- and post-war queer cultures, Janes takes his reader through a fascinating and endlessly glamorous story of the freakishly chic manifestations that have helped to galvanize and vilify queer identity. Somewhere between the beautiful and the ugly, the respectable and the profane, the book offers keen insights into the elusive and radical potential of queer style. * John Potvin, Concordia University, Montreal *This lavishly illustrated book is a sophisticated and entertaining account of the Twenties interface between camp, fashion, identity politics, and flowers, featuring some of the era's most orchidaceous personalities. * Jane Stevenson, University of Oxford, UK *Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Acknowledgments 1. Introduction: In Search of Lost Times 2. Freak Shows Decline and Fall 3. Freaks in Vogue George, Georgie, Georgino Mio 4. Bright Young Things Freak Parties The Uprise of Cecil Beaton 5. Divas Mariegold in Society 6. The Floral Closet Pansies Open for Trade 7. Conclusions Oscar Wilde Revamped Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisSharon Rothman is an Adjunct Assistant Professor at the Fashion Institute of Technology, New York.Table of ContentsTable of Contents Chapter 1: Introduction to the Fashion Designer's Sketchbook Telling your design story; Interview: Andora Whitfield; Interview: Daniel Roseberry Chapter 2: Pre-Design: Your Inspiration Sketchbook Creativity, Originality and Inspiration; Your cultural universe; Exercise 1: Building a Fabric Archive; Putting It All Together; Exercise 2: Your Own Remix; Sketching in the Moment; Exercise 3: Research Sketching; Transition to Design; Exercise 4: Visual Storytelling/ Mind Mapping; Interview: Scott Nylund; Interview: Renaldo Barnette Chapter 3: Market Research: Your Design Direction Your design philosophy; Exercise 5: Visualizing Your Design Philosophy; Identifying your customer; Exercise 6: Your Key Fashion Message; Targeting your market; Exercise 7: Market and customer analysis; Visualizing your design direction; Interview: Naama Doktofsky; Interview: Daniel Silverstein Chapter 4: Design Development: The Process Sketchbook Sketchbook options; Sketchbook criteria; Design Direction to Plan of Action; Exercise 9: Your Design Plan; Translating Concept into Design; Conveying Theme in Color and Fabric; Exercise 10: Conveying Theme in Color and Fabric; Design Development: The Main Event; Exercise 11: Design Development; The Edit: Shaping a Cohesive Collection; Exercise 12: Collection Edit; Interview: Lauren Sehner; Interview: Matthew Harwoodstone Chapter 5: Presentation Sketchbook Presentation Sketchbook Considerations; Content Edit for Presentation Sketchbook; Content Presentation; Spatial Dynamics; The Working Sketch; Exercise 13: Process Sketch to Working Sketch; Sequencing Plan; Exercise 14: Presentation Sequencing Plan; Interview: Peter Do; Interview: Kieran Dallison Chapter 6: Innovative/Interactive Sketchbooks The Elements of Invention; Designing a Sustainable Future; Interview:Sonja Nesse; Interview: Sunghee Bang Resources; Acknowledgements; Picture Credits; Index

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Book SynopsisThe Covid-19 pandemic heightened people's awareness of long-standing inequalities within the fashion industry. Amid calls for greater accountability and ethical awareness, efforts are being made within and beyond the industry, chiefly in the cultural and education sectors, to decentralize fashion: to make the conception, creation and consumption of fashionable dress and appearance less western'-centric.Supporting this premise, Hang-Ups argues that purposeful and permanent change within the fashion industry and fashion education is more likely if it is understood how the contemporary industry became western'-centric. To institute effective change, it is necessary to revert to first principles and understand how the fashion industry developed into what it is today. During a period when the concepts of fashion, history and culture are being intensely scrutinized, and with suggestions they are reaching their nadir, the imperative to understand the extent to which Trade ReviewA thoughtfully researched, carefully crafted and wildly engaging inquiry that is essential reading for all of us in fashion committed to bringing about social justice. * Ben Barry, Parsons School of Design, USA *An important and timely work that belongs on the bookshelves of serious fashion students as well as those involved in the design and promotion of fashion products. * Linda Welters, University of Rhode Island, USA *Sometimes a book come along that stops you dead in your tracks and makes you seriously think that change is long overdue. Hang-ups is one of those brave books. * Vicki Karaminas, Massey University, New Zealand *A timely book that dialogues with the complicated multidimensional dynamics of fashion and dress … Utilizes historic and culture guideposts to challenge assumptions, colonialism, paradigms, and ‘western’ trappings and tropes. * Therèsa M. Winge, Michigan State University, USA *Table of ContentsAcknowledgements Introduction 1. Undress 2. Gender 3. Race 4. Sexuality 5. Age 6. Religion 7. Wealth 8. Violence 9. Shape Conclusion Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisSheila Cliffe is Professor at Jumonji Gakuen Women's University, Japan. She has lectured at conferences, museums and events in Japan, England, Hawaii and Korea and she is one of the first non-native Japanese people to hold an official kimono dressing and teaching licence.Trade ReviewThe Social Life of Kimono does cover well-trodden ground in parts, but it mixes in new information and hints at future projects by (Sheila) Cliffe, making it as tantalizing as the glimpse of a hidden collar on a kimono wearer as they run to catch their train in downtown Tokyo. * H-Net *[A] delightful and comprehensive feast of kimono cultural knowledge ... In addition to its wonderful historical sweep, [Cliffe's volume] offers immense and often personal detail about the intricate stages of making, finishing and accessorising a kimono ... The achievement of a true aficionado. * Times Higher Education *Shatters antiquated views of Japan's traditional garment ... Cliffe's passion for kimono is infectious, and her deep knowledge on the subject – both academically and aesthetically – is nothing less than inspiring. * Tokyo Weekender *The Social Life of Kimono gives a unique insight into [the] making and meaning of this complex garment. * Love Sewing *Tracing the history, economic role, cultural impact, and social uses of kimono, Sheila Cliffe’s valuable contribution to the sociology of fashion is a real treat. Comprehensive yet detailed, this book, with its generous collection of beautiful and colorful plates of kimono, should grace the shelf of anyone who appreciates this icon of Japanese aesthetics. -- Brian J. McVeigh, author of Wearing Ideology: State, Schooling and Self-Presentation in JapanSheila Cliffe has made invaluable empirical as well as theoretical contributions to the field of fashion studies through her in-depth research on kimono and by making comparisons between the kimono system and the Western fashion system. This is a must-read for anyone interested in ethnic or non-Western dress and fashion. -- Yuniya Kawamura, Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, USA.An abundance of illustrations and solid research gives readers a new and exciting look at kimonos and their wearers. Cliffe demonstrates that Japan has long had a fashion system based on the indigenous garment quite apart from Western influence. Cultural interviews provide a fascinating look at contemporary interpretations of this tradition. -- Michaele HaynesThe Social Life of Kimono gives a unique insight into making and meaning of this complex garment. * ADDRESS: Journal for Fashion Criticism *The Social Life of the Kimono animates the flat textile that the western world is used to seeing on display in clothing collections as works of craftsmanship and art, demonstrating how it is, in fact, fashion with styles that change and reflect the social, industrial, and economic influences of the moment. In conjunction with textile art resources on kimono and guides for dressing, the reader would gain a solid base of information with which to understand the Japanese kimono. * The Journal of Dress History *Table of ContentsPreface Introduction 1. Think Fashion or Tradition? 2. Tracing Trends in Heian and Edo 3. Mode Becomes Modern: Meiji to 21st Century 4. In Press and Picture: The Published Kimono 5. Makers and Marketers 6. Wearers and Wardrobes 7. Returning Kimono to the Streets Glossary Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisAlun Withey is a Senior Lecturer in History, University of Exeter, UK, and has recently completed a Wellcome Trust-funded research project Do Beards Matter?: Facial Hair, Health and Hygiene in Britain, 1650-1900'.Trade ReviewAlun Withey's fluent and attractive account greatly enlarges the scope and historical grounding of an intriguing subject which is too often treated lightly. It is particularly valuable for the attention it gives to health, class, race, and institutional practices, as well as for its speculations about change over time. * Dr Margaret Pelling, University of Oxford, UK. *Table of ContentsIntroduction Section One – Facial Hair, Health and Medicine 2. Medical Conceptions of Facial Hair, c. 1650-1750 3. The Faces of Politeness: Beards and Beardlessness in the Eighteenth Century 4. The Imperial Beard, c. 1850-1900 Section Two – The Practice and Practices of Shaving 5. Barbers and Barbershops in Early Modern Britain 6. Shaving and Being Shaved, c.1600-1750 7. Barbering in Decline? Barbershops and Shaving, 1745-1900 Section Three – Facial Hair, Class and Hegemony 8. The Bearded Classes: Facial Hair and Social Status, 1700-1900 9. Cleanse and Control: The Institutional History of Facial Hair, c. 1700-1900 Section Four – The Marketplace for Shaving 10. The Material Culture of Shaving, 1650-1750 11. The ‘Outward Gentlemen’: Marketing Shaving Products, c. 1750-1850 12. Selling Shaving in the Age of the Beard: Men’s Personal Grooming, c. 1850-1900 Index

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Book SynopsisItaly is a major player in the global fashion industry, yet little has been written about its contribution to fashion curation. This book explores the management, display and curation of Italian fashion heritage, highlighting the role played by companies and industry associations.By contextualising fashion curation within Italy''s economy, culture and art-historical tradition, Curating Italian Fashion unfolds the ties between the preservation of fashion heritage and corporate policies. It traces the shift of companies from sponsors to cultural producers and discusses the different uses of archives and exhibitions. Through the critical analysis of key examples such as Salvatore Ferragamo and Pitti Immagine, this book illustrates how the inevitable commercial interests underlying fashion curation can exist alongside the scholarly contribution of corporate initiatives. Most importantly, it defines the curatorial approaches developed by the involvement of the industry in fashion curTrade ReviewAn insightful history of Italian fashion curation, marketing and heritage, essential to understanding Italian fashion today. * Lucia Savi, Design Museum, UK *An important contribution to the opening of the anglo-saxon focus in the discipline of fashion curating. Matteo Augello highlights and shows the uniqueness of some key cases in the history of fashion exhibitions and museums in Italy. * Marco Pecorari, Parsons Paris, France *A rigorous critical analysis based upon extensive research. Matteo Augello takes the reader on a fascinating journey that explores the evolution of fashion studies and curatorship, and their relationship with industry, in Italy. * Amy de la Haye, London College of Fashion, UK *A much needed summary in English of fashion curation in Italy. I would recommend this book for fashion historians, curators, Italian studies specialists and all those interested in the complex dynamics of how fashion is consumed in our time. * Sonnet Stanfill, V&A, UK *Table of ContentsList of Figures Preface Acknowledgements Introduction a. Situating Italian fashion curation b. Defining terminology c. Structuring the book Chapter 1: Constructing Italian fashion heritage 1.1 Renaissance as Italianness 1.2 The strategic use of the past 1.3 Fashion, heritage and artification 1.4 Fashion as Renaissance legacy Chapter 2: Industry and corporate heritage in Italy 2.1 Corporate heritage: an Italian perspective 2.2 Investing in corporate heritage 2.3 Corporate cultural policies 2.3.1 Patronage 2.3.2 Sponsorship 2.3.3 Partnership 2.3.4 Investment 2.4 Industry and scholarship Chapter 3: Corporate heritage and institutions 3.1 Corporate foundations 3.2 Collecting corporate heritage 3.2.1 Corporate archives 3.2.2 Corporate collections 3.3 Corporate museums 3.4 Exhibiting corporate heritage 3.5 Researching corporate heritage 3.6 Interpreting corporate heritage Chapter 4: A history of fashion curation in Italy 4.1 The beginnings (1900s-1940s) 4.2 The study of historical textiles and fashion (1950s-1970s) 4.2.1 CIAC, the International Centre of the Arts and Costume 4.2.2 Textiles and fashion at CIAC 4.2.3 CIAC in the 1960s 4.2.4 Fashion studies in Milan in the 1970s 4.3 Moving towards contemporary fashion (1980s-1990s) 4.3.1 CISST, the Italian Centre for the Study of the History of Textiles 4.3.2 The 1981 exhibition at the Museo Poldi Pezzoli in Milan 4.3.3 The 1985 retrospective on Salvatore Ferragamo 4.3.4 The 1990 conference on ready-to-wear history 4.3.5 The relaunch of Florence as a fashion capital 4.3.6 The 1996 Biennale di Firenze 4.4 The lead of corporate institutions (2000s-2010s) 4.4.1 The Fondazione Pitti Immagine Discovery 4.4.2 Exhibitions as promotional tools 4.4.3 The increasing importance of fashion heritage 4.4.4 Online archives 4.4.5 Recent developments Chapter 5: Industry and curation: a critical commentary 5.1 Companies as sponsors 5.2 Companies as cultural producers 5.3 Curating corporate heritage 5.4 Managing corporate and civic needs Concluding remarks Notes Reference list Index

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Book SynopsisLiz Tregenza is a fashion and business historian. She is currently a lecturer at London College of Fashion, UK. Liz also runs her own vintage business and has written two books on vintage fashion.Trade ReviewThis much-needed work fills a gap in the history of British fashion design and manufacturing in the twentieth century. * Marie McLoughlin, University of Brighton, UK *Drawing on a rich and diverse range of research, Liz Tregenza demonstrates how wholesale couturiers made haute couture style available to middle-class women, arguing that they were instrumental in securing London's position as a centre of ready-to-wear fashion in the period 1930-70. * Rachel Worth, Arts University Bournemouth, UK *Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Acknowledgements Introduction 1. From Bond Street to the Golf Club: The Early History of Wholesale Couture 2. Seventh Avenue in Miniature: Manufacturing Wholesale Couture 3. Can London Become a World Fashion Centre? Reimagining Wholesale Couture in 1946 4. Avenue Montaigne in Market Street: Designing Wholesale Couture 5. These Labels Stand for Quality: Promoting Wholesale Couture 6. London Prepares an Invasion: Exporting Wholesale Couture 7. Switched on Clothes for Swinging Girls? Youth Fashion and Wholesale Couture Conclusion Notes Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisShirts, Shifts and Sheets of Fine Linen explores how the jobs of the seamstress' evolved in scope, and status, between 1600-1900.In the 17th and early 18th centuries, seamstressing was a trade for women who worked in linen and cotton, making men's shirts, women's chemises, underwear and baby linen; some of these seamstresses were consummate craftswomen, able to sew with stitches almost invisible to the naked eye. Few examples of their work survive, but those that do attest to their skill. However, as the ready-to-wear trade expanded in the 18th century, women who assembled these garments were also known as seamstresses, and by the 1840s, most seamstresses were outworkers for companies or entrepreneurs, paid unbelievably low rates per dozen for the garments they produced, notorious examples of downtrodden, exploited womenfolk. Drawing on a range of original and hitherto unpublished sources, including business diaries, letters and bills, Shirts, ShiftsTrade ReviewPam Inder has accomplished a monumental feat of scholarship with this comprehensive history of the seamstress. It is an invaluable resource for understanding the lives and economies devoted to what was long considered to be “women's work”. * Jean Druesedow, Kent State University, USA *Pam Inder’s forensic research shines a spotlight into the corners of the seamstress’s world and gives voice to their lives. * Kate Strasdin, Falmouth University, UK *An important contribution to the study of female achievement in the provision of simple but essential clothing and household linens. Across three centuries, using original documents and artistic and literary sources, this book offers a fresh perspective on the role of seamstresses in relation to dress history. * Valerie Cumming, Costume: The Journal of the Costume Society, UK *Table of ContentsList of Plates List of Illustrations List of Tables Acknowledgements Introduction 1. ‘The Art and Mystery of Simistry’ in the Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries 2. ‘Well-handed Needlewomen’ 3. The Development of Ready-to-Wear 4. ‘Linnen Drapery at Reasonable Rates’ 1720-1820 5. Slops and Slop-sellers 6. ‘Seam and Gusset and Band’ 7. ‘Society came and shuddered’ 8. Bespoke Needlework 9. Real Lives 10. The Seamstress in Art and Literature Conclusion Notes Bibliography Image sources Index

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Book SynopsisPam Inder is an independent scholar and was formerly Curator of Applied Arts at first Exeter and then Leicestershire Museums, UK (specialising in dress history), after being an Assistant Curator at Birmingham City Art Gallery, UK. She later taught at Staffordshire and De Montfort Universities, UK. She is the author of the companion books, Busks, Basques and Brush-braid (Bloomsbury, 2020) and Shirts, Shifts and Sheets of Fine Linen (Bloomsbury, 2024).

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Book SynopsisWith contributions from leading experts, this edited collection presents original research on the skills brought by immigrant communities to the textile and fashion industries, from the early modern to postmodern periods in Asia and the Islamic World, Europe, Africa, and the Americas.Manufacturing of textiles and apparel is arduous work, which historically depended on skilled artisans, inexpensive labor, and the introduction of labor-saving technology. Immigrant communities supplied much of the work force, bringing their own skill sets to new locations, leading to the development of new manufacturing centers and an increase in both production and technical expertise. Throughout the volume, the role of migration and immigrant involvement in manufacturing is also examined in relation to trade, politics, and socio-religious circumstances prompting relocation.Deconstructing the question of provenance by examining the cultural identity of migrant populations, the rTrade ReviewExtends valuable critical enquiry into the role historically played by workers in textile and garment production. It is an important collection of studies for design history researchers, especially those with an interest in sericulture and silk consumption. -- Katie Irani, Doctorate researcher, Royal College of Art & Associate Lecturer, London College of Fashion, UKSpanning centuries and continents, the essays in this volume integrate mythology, Abrahamic narratives, plantation ledgers and personal accounts to complement the scholarly analysis of the histories, skill, knowledge and craft that construct individual identity and accompany human migration. -- Wendy Weiss, Emeritus Professor, University of Nebraska-Lincoln, USATable of ContentsPreface Part One: Introduction 1. A Brief History of Textile Production and Trade – Nazanin Hedayat Munroe, NYC College of Technology, City University of New York, USA Part Two: Imported Myths, Imported Moths: Silk Production Across Asia 2. Histories of Silken Skills: Immigrant Sericulturalists in Early Modern South Asia – Sylvia Houghteling, Bryn Mawr College in Bryn Mawr, Pennsylvania, USA 3. Prophets and Caterpillars: The Story of Job and the Social Mobility of Silk Workers and Weavers in the Early Modern Islamic World – Nader Sayadi, University of Rochester, New York, USA Part Three: Imported Skills: Weaving Specialists Go Global 4 Master Craftsmen in Migration: Safavid Silk Weavers in Mughal India – Nazanin Hedayat Munroe, NYC College of Technology, City University of New York, USA 5. Weaving Andean Textiles on Islamic Looms: The Importation of Skilled Weavers in the Colonial Andes – Maria Madison Smith, Syracuse University, New York, USA Part Four: Imported Labor: Enslaved and Immigrant Workers in America 6. Clothing the Black Body in Slavery: Stolen Lives and Imported Labor – Wanett Clyde, NYC College of Technology, City University of New York, USA 7. How the Other Half Works: Perceptions and Realities of Immigrant Labor in the New York Apparel Industry – Nazanin Hedayat Munroe, NYC College of Technology, City University of New York, USA Part Five: Imported Culture: Textile as Tradition in the Diaspora 8. Silk Weaving in the Cambodian Refugee Crisis and Diaspora: Displaced Practice and Identities in the Post-Khmer Rouge Era – Magali An Berthon, Center for Textile Research, University of Copenhagen, Denmark 9. The Evolution of an Identity: Tracing the Trajectory of Sindhi Ajrak across the India–Pakistan Border – Pragya Sharma, Indian Institute of Art and Design, New Delhi, India Conclusion Glossary of Textile Terms References Index

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Book SynopsisMotherhood, whether achieved through biological or other means, is not a rare experience; dressing oneself, even less so. The two phenomena are intimately linked, as both occur on and to the private body, and are also fully subject to social pressures and the changing tides of public opinion. They also, for anyone who experiences motherhood, define one another and work together to shape an individual's identity and place in their culture.This rich collection explores the essential question of how motherhood and fashion interact, interrogating their relationships to power, misogyny, temporality, longing and embodiment, among other themes. The 13 essays examine representations on film, in popular print and literature; they use images, narrative and material evidence from the past to excavate the historical cleavages in how mothers have been expected to hide, display, share and sacrifice their bodies. An international range of scholars explores the 19th to the 21st centuries, t

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Book SynopsisWhat is the relationship between the soul, or inner life, and what we wear in the making of identity and belief? What bearing do religious and political belonging, respectability, and resistance have on the way in which we dress? Why have more traditional religious practices been so prescriptive about body adornment? Historically, fashionable dress and religion have been positioned as polar opposites. Silhouettes of the Soul brings them together, placing them in conversation with each other. By moving beyond traditional, social scientific, and historical analysis of religious attire and adornment the book presents a variety of disciplinary approaches from across regional, social, and religious locations.Contentious and challenging, as well as academically rigorous, the book''s diverse range of contributors - from fashion and religious studies scholars, to designers, activists, monastics, and journalists - explore the relationship between religion and fashion, extending the meaniTrade ReviewAn exciting and refreshing take on the relationship between religion and fashion through an exploration of “deep dress.” Silhouettes of the Soul moves beyond the Christo-centrism prominent in the study of religious dress to highlight a diverse range of religions and religious people from queer Buddhist monks to the Muslim modest fashion movement to religious robes in ancient India. This is a great book for students of fashion and curious readers alike. * Kayla Wheeler, Xavier University, USA *This provocative volume challenges readers to question assumptions about religion and ecclesiastical fashion as dress reflects new conceptions of spirit, distinguishing religious innovators from past beliefs and practices. * Elisha P. Renne, University of Michigan, USA *This volume draws together scholars from diverse disciplinary homes to offer concepts and frames to help our understanding of the role of clothing in theological constructions, devotional practices, and cultivation of the self, as well as the broader aesthetics of concealment of the human form. * Liz Bucar, Northeastern University, USA *Table of ContentsList of Illustrations List of Contributors Introduction Otto von Busch (Parsons School of Design, USA) and Jeanine Viau (University of Central Florida, USA) Section One: Interfacing the Divine Section One Introduction by Otto von Busch (Parsons School of Design, USA) and Jeanine Viau (University of Central Florida, USA) 1. The Future Body as Ultimate Dress Fiona Dieffenbacher (Parsons School of Design, USA) 2. No One Can Tell: On the Silent Glamour of Meher Baba Nicola Masciandaro (Brooklyn College, CUNY, USA) 3. Embodiments of Shakti: Cosmic Power Displayed by Kumaris, Incarnate Goddesses of Nepal Liz Wilson (Miami University of Ohio, USA) 4. Interview with Kodo Nishimura Otto von Busch (Parsons School of Design, USA) and Mark Larrimore (The New School, USA) Section Two: Practices of Emulation and Transformation Section Two Introduction by Otto von Busch (Parsons School of Design, USA) and Jeanine Viau (University of Central Florida, USA) 5. Naked or Nude? Reading the Threads, the Bare and the Threadbare in Ancient Indian Religion Joseph Walser (Tufts University, USA) 6. Empowered Entrepreneurs: Women of Muslim Faith and the Modest Fashion Movement in the U.S. Hassanah El-Yacoubi (University of California Riverside, USA) 7. Fashioning the Subject: Black Queerness, Identity, and an Ethic of Honor Benae Beamon (Bucknell University, USA) 8. From the Medieval Christ to Fashion’s Heroin Chic: The Sublime Emulation of the Emaciated Paradigm in Secular and Religious Iconography Tanya White (Toronto Metropolitan University, Canada) 9. In and Out of One Another’s Closets: A Dialogue Jeanine Viau (University of Central Florida, USA) with Shekinah Morrison (University of Central Florida, USA) Section Three: The Radiance of the Concealed Section Three Introduction by Otto von Busch (Parsons School of Design, USA) and Jeanine Viau (University of Central Florida, USA) 10. Making Islamic Masculinities: Clothing Traditions in African American Islam Michael Muhammad Knight (University of Central Florida, USA) 11. Holly Woodlawn, Trash Queen: Queer Agency and Resistance in the Pursuit of Glamour Jared Vázquez (University of Denver, USA) 12. Fashioning A Glamour: Magical Embodiment in Contemporary Witchcraft Kristen J. Sollée (The New School, USA) 13. Interview with Damcho Otto von Busch (Parsons School of Design, USA) Index

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Book SynopsisSarah Heaton is Head of English at the University of Chester, UK.Trade ReviewA thick, tangled and deliciously idiosyncratic history of hair ... There is plenty to inform and intrigue. * Times Literary Supplement *An excellent contribution to this very significant period in the story of hair, this book offers specific insights from a range of disciplines and authors. The chapters manage to weave into each other to demonstrate the ways in which hair and our contemporary modes of understanding it are embedded in the fascinating period of change that is the Age of Empire. -- Donna Bevan, Southampton Solent University, UKTable of ContentsList of Illustrations General Editor's Preface Introduction: Empires of Hair and their Afterlives, Sarah Heaton 1. Religion and Ritualized Belief, Richard Leahy 2. Self and Society, Jonathon Shears 3. Fashion and Adornment, Patricia Hunt-Hurst 4. Production and Practice, Sallie McNamara 5. Health and Hygiene, Janice M. Allan 6. Gender and Sexuality, Sarah Heaton 7. Race and Ethnicity, Elizabeth Way 8. Class and Social Status, Elizabeth Carolyn Miller 9. Cultural Representations, Sally West Notes Bibliography Notes on Contributors Index

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Book SynopsisLydia Edwards is a fashion historian and Lecturer at Edith Cowan University and the Western Australian Academy of Performing Arts in Perth, Australia. She gained her PhD from the University of Bristol and has taught at the universities of St Andrews, Dundee, and Western Australia (UWA). She is the author of the companion books, How to Read a Suit (Bloomsbury 2020) and How to Read a Dress (Bloomsbury 2017 and 2021).

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Book SynopsisBoth a translation and critique of an early 20th century seminal French text on the physical effects of corseting, The Bad Corset explores contemporary anti-woman bias to challenge the commonly accepted assertions about corsetry's contribution to disease, disfigurement, and disorders of the female body. The original 1908 French book, Le Corset by Ludovic O''Followellwith its graphic illustrations, some of which are reproduced heretells a story, familiar to anyone interested in popular culture and fashion history, of women suffering for fashion, tormented by and subject to their corsets. However, a close reading of the texts tells a very different, and more complicated, story.This fascinating exploration, approaching the topic from a scientific perspective, and reproducing facsimiles of the original text, with translations and annotations, critiques the presumptions and anxieties of male medical professionals on the damage' caused by corsets to th

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Book SynopsisThe Rise of the Stylist examines the social factors that contributed to the stylist becoming a key role in fashion image-making. The 1980s'' stylist is presented as a cultural intermediary and auteur, as commercial compass and avant-garde innovator. Focusing on London from 1980 to 1990, Philip Clarke draws on oral history interviews with the young creatives who were involved in the specific subcultural scenes, educational environments and new modes of publishing that informed a unique moment in British cultural life. By documenting the history of the stylist in fashion and dress, as well as their contribution to fields such as food photography and car manufacture, this study looks beyond the style press and bridges the gap between production and promotion. The Rise of the Stylist defines the specific nature of the stylist's role in relation to that of other creative occupations and locates discussion of styling within the context of postmodern so

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Book SynopsisLaura Gardner is Lecturer in Fashion Design at RMIT University, Melbourne, Australia.

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Book SynopsisA revelation. Reclaiming fashion from its European history. Shane WhiteWith a focus on sub-Saharan Africa, Fashioning the Afropolis provides a range of innovative perspectives on global fashion, design, dress, photography, and the body in some of the major cities, with a focus on Lagos, Johannesburg, Dakar, and Douala. It contributes to the ongoing debates around the globalization of fashion and fashion theory by exploring fashion as a genuine urban phenomenon on the continent and among its diasporas. To date, fashion and city have not been systematically related to each other in the African context and, for too long, a western-centric gaze has dominated scholarship, resulting in the perception of Africa as provincial and its visual arts and textile cultures as static and folkloristic. This perspective is all the more distorted, given Africa's rich sartorial past. With a huge number of tailors ready to adapt and renew clothing, reshaping garments into

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Book SynopsisHazel Clark is Professor of Design Studies and Fashion Studies, and currently Director of MA Fashion Studies, Parsons School of Design, New York. Her most recent books are Fashion and Everyday Life: London and New York (Bloomsbury, 2017) with Cheryl Buckley, and Fashion Curating (Bloomsbury, 2018) co-edited with Annamari Vänskä.Lauren Downing Peters is Assistant Professor of Fashion Studies and Director of the Fashion Study Collection at Columbia College Chicago. She is the author of Fashion Before Plus-Size: Bodies, Bias and the Birth of an Industry (Bloomsbury, 2023).

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Book SynopsisHazel Clark is Professor of Design Studies and Fashion Studies, and currently Director of MA Fashion Studies, Parsons School of Design, New York. Her most recent books are Fashion and Everyday Life: London and New York (Bloomsbury, 2017) with Cheryl Buckley, and Fashion Curating (Bloomsbury, 2018) co-edited with Annamari Vänskä.Lauren Downing Peters is Assistant Professor of Fashion Studies and Director of the Fashion Study Collection at Columbia College Chicago. She is the author of Fashion Before Plus-Size: Bodies, Bias and the Birth of an Industry (Bloomsbury, 2023).

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Book SynopsisAnalyzing dress, costume, and fashion in Puerto Rico, this collection utilizes case studies that explore national identity and nation formation as well as past and current practices in Puerto Rican visual culture.As the last Spanish-speaking colony with an ever-growing diaspora, Puerto Rico presents a unique opportunity to study national identity and nation formation through dress and fashion. In Dress, Fashion, and National Identity in Puerto Rico, José Blanco F. and Raúl J. Vázquez López combine new material and previously published essays that review diverse aspects of visual culture in Puerto Rico. The book is divided into three sections that define and redefine the terms dress, costume, and fashion through case studies that include the resurgence of native Taíno imagery, the Young Lords' resistance through dress, the iconic Jíbaro peasants, festival and dance costumes, and the fashion of Puerto Rican Miss Universe contestants. This much-n

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Book SynopsisThrough a variety of archival documents, artefacts, illustrations, and references to primary and secondary literature, On the Job explores the changing styles, business practices, and lived experiences of the people who make, sell, and wear service-industry uniforms in the United States. It highlights how the uniform business is distinct from the fashion business, including how manufacturing developed outside of the typical fashion hubs such as New York City; and gives attention to the ways that various types of employers (small business, corporate, government and others) differ in their ambitions and regulations surrounding uniforms.On the Job sheds new light on an understudied yet important field of dress and clothing within everyday life, and is an essential addition to any fashion historian's library, appealing to all those interested in material culture, the service industry, heritage and history.

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Book SynopsisMark Joseph O'Connell PhD is Professor of Fashion Studies at Seneca College, Toronto, Canada. He is the author of Lilac Time at the Rodeo (2021). His essays have been published in Fashion Theory; Textile the Journal of Cloth and Culture; Fashion, Style & Popular Culture and Fashion Studies. He has lectured on fashion, material culture and craft-based social justice movements in the U.S., Mexico and Canada (in English and Spanish). Prior to teaching, Mark worked as a designer both in-house at M.A.C Cosmetics and for his own clothing line, Modular Menswear.

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Book SynopsisFirst published in 2013, Queer Style was ahead of its time. It was the first book to address the cultural, political, and material histories of clothes as signs and markers of gender and sexual identity, and remains key reading for scholars and students across fashion studies and the humanities more broadly. Now, 10 years later, the authors have revisited their classic work and updated it to examine the function of subcultural dress within queer communities and the mannerisms and messages that are used as signifiers of identity.

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Book SynopsisDress and Identity in America is an examination of the conservatism and materialism that swept across the country in the late 1940s through the 1950sa backlash to the wartime tumult, privations, and social upheavals of the Second World War.The study looks at how American men sought to recapture a masculine identity from a generation earlier, that of the stoic patriarch, breadwinner, and dutiful father, and in the process, became the men in the gray flannel suits who were complacently conventional and conformist. Parallel to that is a look at how American women, who had donned pants and went to work in wartime munitions factories or joined services like the WACS and WAVES, were now expected to stay at home as housewives and mothers, dressed in cinched, ultrafeminine New Look fashions. As the Space Age dawned, their baby boom children rejected the conventions of their elders and experimented with their own ideas of identity and dress in an emerging era ofTrade ReviewComprehensive and thoughtful, Daniel Delis Hill extends existing studies of post-war American dress, paying welcome attention to marginalised and mundane identities. Distinctive due to its robust contextualisation and detailed socio-political framing, the book presents a timely history. * Alison L Goodrum, Norwich University of the Arts, UK *Table of ContentsPreface 1. The Man in the Gray Flannel Suit: Growing Up Sociocultural legacies from his childhood American manhood during World War II Civilian dress and identity during the Second World War Conclusion 2. The Man in the Gray Flannel Suit: The Postwar Years Masculine identity in transition The GI Bill of Rights Postwar marriage Masculine identity in suburbia Fatherhood in the baby boom era TV dads of the 1950s Conclusion 3. The Man in the Gray Flannel Suit: Crisis in Masculinity The feminization of American manhood Conformity and Cold War masculine identity The stress of success Noncomformist Beats, beatniks and bikers Playboys “Lavender Lads” Conclusion 4. Men’s Dress from Ivy League to Continental to Mod Ivy League style Continental suits Accessories Sportswear The dichotomy of desexualized dress and erotic masculine styles The British Invasion: from the London Line to mod Conclusion 5. Ethnic Men’s Identity and Dress The zoot suit The social significance and cultural meaning of the zoot suit The zoot suit riots Soul style in the 1960s Conclusion 6. Women of the Baby Boom Era: Lessons of Youth Feminine role models and expectations American women during World War II Sociocultural changes for women during World War II Conclusion 7. Women’s Identities in the Baby Boom Years Marriage reunions at the end of the war Postwar newlyweds Postwar marriage: not happily ever after Postwar suburban wives Motherhood in the baby boom era TV wives and mothers of the baby boom era Working women of the baby boom era Feminism in the baby boom era Conclusion 8. Women’s Fashions of the Baby Boom Era The New Look Mod and the miniskirt Women’s accessories of the baby boom years Decade of “miracle fabrics” Conclusion 9. Baby Boom Children An era of children Gender role socialization A new consumer demographic Children’s dress Standardization of children’s sizes and textile regulations Children’s body modifications Conclusion End Notes Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisAgnès Rocamora is a Professor in Social and Cultural Studies at the London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London, UK. She has published widely in the field of fashion. Anneke Smelik is Professor Emerita of Visual Culture at the Radboud University of Nijmegen, Netherlands. She is co-editor of Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty.

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