Fashion and textile design Books

Book SynopsisA guide to figurative stitching in textile art, with techniques and tips. Figurative stitch is soaring in popularity. In this guide, textile artist Rosie James shares ideas and techniques on using the sewing machine's needle and thread almost as a pencil. The book covers: How to set up your machine; How to tackle drawing (with exercises that will help even those who are afraid to put pen to paper); Transferring drawing to cloth, working with transparency, different surfaces and adding fabrics and colour; Photography, with details on using photographs in textiles; Putting it all together with layering images, playing with scale, repetition and composition. Tips and advise throughout will show textile artists how to expand their repertoire and how to use figurative stitch to really showcase their creativity. Illustrated throughout with stitch drawings by Rosie James and other leading artists, this is a welcome paperback edition that will inspire both professionals and those new to stitching.Trade ReviewFor anyone who admires the abilities of Rosie James and other artists in drawing figures with stitch, this book is a fascination. -- Wokshop on the Web * Wokshop on the Web *One of our favourite books this year -- Embroidery Magazine * Embroidery Magazine *This book is well laid-out and anyone could pick it up and have a go. The book has a velvet-soft tactile cover that makes it a little bit special. -- Craft Focus * Craft Focus *

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Book SynopsisWhat motivates people to dress in a manner that marks them out as different to the conventional norm? Is it true that, with dress, 'anything goes' in our mix-and-match postmodern culture? Have easily recognizable, authentic subcultures imploded in a glut of ironic revivals and stylistic fragmentation? Does this supposed 'post-subcultural' generation actively celebrate ephemerality, transience and disposability, merely casting off and trying on one alternative identity after another in an ever-accelerating fashion frenzy? This exciting book is a considered sociological examination of such questions. By listening to the voices of the subcultural stylists themselves - their subjective perceptions of their style and the ideas that lie behind them - the author provides original insights into issues of subjectivity and identity. Situating an empirical case study within a wider consideration of postmodernism and cultural change, the author rejects cultural studies perspectives that attempt to 'read' subcultures as texts. Drawing on extensive interviews with people who dress in what might be deemed a stylistically unconventional manner, he seeks instead to establish whether contemporary subcultures display modern or postmodern sensibilities and forms. He argues persuasively that they do both - a stress on postmodern hyperindividualism, fluidity and fragmentation runs alongside a modernist emphasis on authenticity and underlying essence. He concludes that a Romantic libertarianism has permeated working-class culture and that the distinction between 'individualistic' middle-class countercultures and 'collectivist' working-class subcultures has been over-emphasized.Trade Review'Highly recommended for academic libraries.' Library Journal 'Interview excerpts provide powerful illustrations of some of the points made on identification and dress style, and the book is also commendably thorough in its fieldwork details; the interview schedule in particular makes it a book that could be recommended as background reading to students on research methods courses as well.' Times Higher Education Supplement

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Book SynopsisTextiles are central to our lives and are at the heart of the world's largest industries. In recent years there has been a dynamic shift in attitudes toward textiles, fuelled in part by explosive developments in technology. While textiles have always retained roots in craft and industry, the discipline now embraces a much wider range of practices. Innovations in the industry demand a fresh approach to the subject, which this comprehensive introduction ably supplies. Taking as their starting point the very meaning of textiles, Gale and Kaur go on to show the astonishing range of opportunities for careers in the field, from the creative (artists, craftspeople and designers) to the social and industrial, to the commercial and associated practices (buyers, journalists, researchers and scientists). The Textile Book takes us behind the scenes with professionals to reveal what various jobs involve, what influences decision makers, and how their decisions affect what we buy next season. What happens to clothes before they reach the shops? What determines the 'must have' item? How can recycled bottles be transformed into silk-like yarns? These and many other questions are explored to show the diversity that makes up the contemporary global textile scene. Woven, printed, embroidered, knitted -- textiles are pivotal to the everyday experience of people in all parts of the world. This wide-ranging and informative book conveys the excitement and new challenges textiles represent and is essential reading for anyone working with, studying or simply interested in textiles.Trade Review'Although the authors planned this book as a text/reference book, I recommend reading every page ... a valuable authority that provides an historical and global view of the past, present, and future of textiles.' Handwoven 'Essential reading for anyone considering a career in textiles.' Embroidery Magazine 'The Textile book takes a compelling and very broad look at a myriad of aspects of fabrics and the humans using them...the authors seem to have tapped not only solid history, but a good deal of the most up-to-date information, including 'smart fabrics'...this subject, and its treatment in this book, is food for a lot of thought, discussion, and research.' Costume Journal 'Those studying textiles and the general public should find this book very useful.' Choice 'Upper division or graduate students as well as professionals in our field would certainly benefit from the content information of The Textile Book. More importantly, those in the textile community who read it, will be encouraged to engage in broad discourse that the subject deserves in order to better ensure the subject's future as an academic discipline.' Nancy Lyons, South Dakota State UniversityTable of ContentsContents Preface vii Part I Overviews 1What is Textiles?1 This Book3 2The Cultural Place of Textiles7 Gentility and Gender7 The Inner Spirit13 Capitalism and Communism16 Lifestyle23 3Perceptions of Fabric30 New Fabrics, New Aesthetics31 Fundamental Skills and the Evolution of Textile Practice33 The Influence of Skill35 The Influence of Science and Engineering38 Re-evaluation42 Part II The Creative 4The Textile Designer45 Design Practice49 Global Comparisons of Textile Design53 Futures61 5The Designer-Maker63 The Origins of Designer-Makers66 Employment67 Market68 Business71 Case Study: Lindsay Bloxam75 Personal Issues76 Establishing a Business78 Selling Stuff80 The Broader View82 6The Craftsperson85 Comparing Makers89 The Importance of Process-Led Practice93 A Role in the Modern World94 The Appeal of the Handmade98 Supporting Organizations99 7The Textile Artist102 Textile Art, Craft or Design?104 The Reason of Textile Art108 Issues of Content111 Ownership115 Part III The Social and Industrial Context 8Global Textile Traditions119 Regional Exchanges120 Patronage123 Ritual, Symbolism and Stories125 Weave127 Embroidery129 Print and Dye131 Contemporary Uses of Traditional Textiles134 Recent Textile Traditions136 9Ecology139 Pollution, Politics and Ecology139 The Role of Organizations and Agencies143 Government Policies and Organizations148 Eco or Green Design153 Case Study: Corporate Environmental Policies157 10Industry161 The Industrial Story162 Power and Influence170 The Future174 11The Role of Trends and Forecasting180 The Textile Industries and Forecasting183 The Forecasting Gurus and their Roles188 Part IV Related Disciplines and Studies 12The Buyer194 The Buyers Role195 Issues Affecting Buying Decisions196 Buying Textiles and Design-Led Textile Products200 The Suppliers Concerns203 International Issues204 The Future207 13Journalism212 The Media Industry212 Lifestyle and Textile Journalism215 Courting Fame220 The Internet223 14Science226 A Scientific History227 The Basics230 The Science Design Gap233 The Stuff of Fiction236 Future Issues241 15Research245 Archaeology and Anthropology245 Textiles, Cultural Identity and the Culture Industry 250 Museums and Collections255 Contemporary Textiles and Critical Studies 259 Bibliography263 Index27

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Book SynopsisWhen Hong Kong entrepreneur David Tang opened his Shanghai Tang boutique on New York's Madison Avenue, it was not an isolated example of the globalization of Asian fashion. Further evidence is written on the labels in our closets, and paraded in the form of salwaar-kameez and silk sarongs by the rich and famous of London. The phenomenon merits scrutiny. This vanguard attempt points to the colonial era as the origin of fashion globalization, and describes its development as paralleling the gradual take-over of Asian daily wear by Western dress. From indigenous Batak weavers to Hong Kong designers, and from Indonesian businesswomen's power suits to Korean feminists' national costume, this book explores the sartorial interface of East and West.The globalization of Asian dress needs to be understood as part of an ongoing Orientalism that construes Asia as a feminine Other to the masculine West. The conventional Orientalist definition of fashion as an exclusively Western phenomenon has proved self-fulfilling in both East and West so that the conceptual boundary between the two is continually reasserted by design. Paying close attention to Asians' decisions about what clothing to make, sell, buy, and wear, the case studies in this book challenge Orientalist stereotypes of Asian style as passive and traditional and highlight how these actions are often made invisible by global cultural, rhetorical, and material practices that feminize Asia and the fashion world. This timely book will be of interest to dress and fashion theorists, anthropologists, sociologists, historians, art historians and all those interested in globalization, Orientalism and their effects.Trade Review'This is a very good book that will be read with great appreciation by people who understand the importance of fashion in the web of human society.'Fashion Theory 'This book will be useful to readers (or fashion theorists) who are interested in understanding globalization of Asian dress from anthropological, sociological, political and historical perspectives.'Myoung Kim, University of Wisconsin, in International Textile and Apparel Association newsletter (Jan 06)Table of ContentsContents Notes on Contributorsvii Acknowledgmentsix Introduction: The Globalization of Asian Dress: Re-Orienting Fashion or Re-Orientalizing Asia?1 Carla Jones and Ann Marie Leshkowich 1Three Scenarios from Batak Clothing History: Designing Participation in the Global Fashion Trajectory49 Sandra Niessen 2The Ao Dai Goes Global: How International Influences and Female Entrepreneurs Have Shaped Vietnam's "National Costume"79 Ann Marie Leshkowich 3Korean Alterations: Nationalism, Social Consciousness, and "Traditional" Clothing 117 Rebecca Ruhlen 4Designing Diasporic Markets: Asian Fashion Entrepreneurs in London139 Parminder Bhachu 5National Colors: Ethnic Minorities in Vietnamese Public Imagery159 Hjorleifur R. Jonsson and Nora A. Taylor 6Dress for Sukses: Fashioning Femininity and Nationality in Urban Indonesia185 Carla Jones 7Fashion-Nation: A Japanese Globalization Experience and a Hong Kong Dilemma215 Lise Skov Afterword: Re-Orienting Fashion Theory243 Sandra Niessen Index267

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Book SynopsisWith an afterword by Roger Griffin.Fashion is often thought of as a matter of personal taste, completely unconnected with the public domain of political life and citizenship. Overturning this perspective, this absorbing book reveals that, from the French Revolution to post-revolutionary China, fashion has played a significant role in political participation and protest. Fashioning the Body Politic challenges the perception of helpless fashion victims, subject to manipulation by consumerism and the fashion industry, and shows how, in a range of historical and national contexts, certain styles of dress and display were significant for both men and women's political participation and the formation of their identities as citizens.How did 'dressing up' in a variety of ways allow suffragette women to perform unconventional forms of political protest? In what ways did the uniforms of scouts and guides function to erect gender, racial and religious boundaries? Following the ban on traditional clothing in Imperial Russia, how did Russians appropriate European fashions and ethnic costumes to fashion new identities for themselves? Using these and a wealth of other case studies, Fashioning the Body Politic offers a fresh perspective on the relationship between men, women and fashion and shows that the political domain has always been permeated with the cultural practices of dress, display and bodily performance.

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Book SynopsisGoths represent one of the most arresting, distinctive and enduring subcultures of recent times. The dedication of those involved to a lifestyle which, from the outside, may appear dark and sinister, has spawned reactions ranging from admiration to alarm. Until now, no one has conducted a full-scale ethnographic study of this fascinating subcultural group. Based on extensive research by an 'insider', this is the first. Immersing us in the potent mix of identities, practices and values that make up the goth scene, the author takes us behind the faade of the goth mystique. From dress and musical tastes to social habits and the use of the internet, Hodkinson details the inner workings of this intriguing group. Defying postmodern theories that claim media and commerce break down substantive cultural groupings, Hodkinson shows how both have been used by goths to retain, and even strengthen, their group identity. Hodkinson provides a comprehensive reworking of subcultural theory, making a key contribution to the disciplines of sociology, cultural studies, youth studies, media studies, and popular music studies. Readable and accessible, this groundbreaking book presents a unique chance to engage with a contemporary, spectacular culture.Trade Review'I would recommend it as a valuable text that should be included on undergraduate reading lists for courses dealing with fan, music and popular cultures.'Garry Crawford, BSA'While most of us might have moved swiftly on and started wearing baggy jeans, there remains an enormous goth subculture, which Hodkinson, proud to count himself a part of it, analyses stylishly in this 'ethnographic study'.'The Guardian'Engaging.'The Daily Telegraph'A scholarly yet accessible text [that] successfully conveys what it means to be a Goth.'Sonic Seducer'The first major anthropological study of UK Goths is a priceless work. [It is a] fascinating read that I found very difficult to put down.'KaleidoscopeTable of Contents1From Participant to Researcher 2 Reworking Subculture 3Goth as a Subcultural Style 4Insiders and Outsiders 5Events, Friendships and Commitment 6Selling Goth? The Producers of Subcultures 7Buying Goth: Subcultural Shopping 8Communicating Goth: 'Traditional' Media 9Communicating Goth: On-line Media 10Concluding Thoughts Appendix: Quantitative Questionnaire Results Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisWith so much focus on contemporary theory, it is easy to forget that the serious analysis of clothing and fashion has a long history. In fact, they have been the subject of intense cultural debate since the nineteenth century. Fashion Classics provides an interpretative overview of the groundbreaking and often idiosyncratic writings of eight theorists whose work has profoundly influenced the conceptual and theoretical basis of our contemporary understanding of clothes and the fashion system. Carter fully revives early fashion theorists -- some canonical and others less well known -- and examines them in light of more recent work. From Carlyles fantastical character Professor Teufelsdrockh, through the first Freudian analysis of clothes by J.C. Flugel, the pioneering work of Spencer, Veblen, Simmel, Kroeber, Laver and finally Barthes monumental work on the modern fashion system, this book explores and explains the foundations of fashion theory. Not only does it provide an historical outline of Western conceptions of clothes and fashion, but it also highlights how ideas intermix and build on one another. Carters lively narrative clearly shows that views on fashion have always been impassioned perhaps most notably Carlyles notorious attack on Dandyism and Veblens suggestion that clothes should be made out of old newspaper. This book also makes sense of complex theory and is essential reading for anyone seeking an overview of the history of fashion theory.Trade Review'Michael Carter has fashioned, with clarity and wit, not only an important historical account of fashion classics, but an entertaining narrative that illuminates the cultural currents of two centuries. It should make us think more than twice about what we wear and how we describe it. For myself, this is a book that I will constantly refer to - for pleasure as well as enlightenment.'Studies in English LiteratureTable of Contents1. Thomas Carlyle and Sartor Resartus 2. Herbert Spencer's Sartorial Protestantism 3. Thorstein Veblen's Leisure Class 4. Georg Simmel: Clothes and Fashion 5. Alfred Kroeber and the Great Secular Wave 6. J. C. Flgel and the Nude Future 7. James Laver, the Reluctant Expert 8. Roland Barthes and the End of the Nineteenth Century Appendix: Questionnaire Issued by J.C. Flgel in 1929 Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisDress is everywhere imbued with symbols that reflect different meanings in different contexts. This compelling book convincingly demonstrates how clothing is analogous to a working language and is similarly underpinned by deeper meanings and philosophies.From tattoos and mini-skirts, to skin decoration, makeup and hair, Calefato unpicks the multiple functions of modern dress. Exploring intriguing commonalities - for example, between tattooed Egyptian mummies of 2000 BC and modern subcultural styles - Calefato considers the psychological, cultural, spiritual and symbolic significances at play in what she aptly labels 'body cartography'. What we wear is a vehicle for the (often contentious) expression of politics, gender and identity, placing clothing at the root of a complex set of messages, many of which are paradoxical. Clothing may, for example, liberate through the pleasures of masquerade and at the same time 'cage' or control the body. The Clothed Body shows how semiotics can provide a convincing template for understanding dress in a wide range of contexts and will be essential reading for anyone interested in the meaning of what we wear.Trade Review'If you like semitoics, you will love this...The author provides vivid examples to ponder from history, from popular culture, especially from film, and from her own personal experience and observation.'Textiles MagazineTable of ContentsINTRODUCTION CHAPTER 1 DRESS, LANGUAGE AND COMMUNICATION CHAPTER 2 DRESS AND SOCIAL IDENTITY CHAPTER 3 STYLE AND STYLES BETWEEN FASHION AND THE GROTESQUE CHAPTER 4 TASTE BETWEEN COMMON SENSE AND RECEIVED MEANING CHAPTER 5 WRITING THE BODY CHAPTER 6 MENS BODIES, WOMENS BODIES CHAPTER 7 EVERYDAY MODELS CHAPTER 8 THE FACE AND THE GAZE CHAPTER 9 DEGREE ZERO OF FASHION AND THE BODY: THE MODEL, THE NUDE, AND THE DOLL CHAPTER 10 FASHION AND THE WORLD CHAPTER 11 FASHION AND CINEMA CHAPTER 12 WEARING BLACK CHAPTER 13 FASHION AND MUSIC CHAPTER 14 TIME CHAPTER 15 FASHION INTERTEXTS CHAPTER 16 OBJECTS

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Book SynopsisDespite recent challenges from New York, London and Milan, Paris is renowned as the greatest fashion capital in the world. Its distinctive categorization of haute couture, demi-couture, and prt--porter reflects a highly structured and tightly controlled system that non-western designers have had difficulty penetrating. Yet a number of the most influential Japanese designers have broken into this scene and made a major impact. How? Paris couturiers and designers operate a gate-keeping system that is not only exclusive and rigorous but highly demanding. But, Kawamura asks, does the system facilitate or inhibit new forms of creativity? She shows how traditional French fashion has been both disturbed and strengthened by the addition of outside forces such as Kenzo Takada, Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo and Hanae Mori. At the same time she considers many other key questions the contemporary fashion industry should be asking itself. Has it, for example, become primarily preoccupied with the commercial projection of product images rather than with the clothing itself? And what direction will French fashion take without Saint Laurent, Miyake and Kenzo? This insightful book provides the first in-depth study of the Japanese revolution in Paris fashion and raises provocative questions for the future of the industry.Table of ContentsContents: Part 1: Fashion Culture and France -- Fashion Dominance in France: History and Institutions -- The Modern Fashion System in France -- The Global Diffusion Mechanism of Fashion: Past and Present -- Social and Technical Differences among Haute Couture, Demi-Couture and Pret-a-Porter Part 2: Interdependence between Japanese Designers and the French Fashion System -- The Japanese Fashion Phenomenon in Paris since 1970 -- Type 1: Kenzo. Complete Assimilation into the French Fashion System -- Type 2: Rei Kawakubo, Issey Miyake and Yohji Yamamoto. Construction of the Avant-Garde Japanese Fashion -- Type 3: Hanae Mori. Attainment of the Ultimate Designer Status in Paris Conclusion: Paris as the Battlefield of Fashion

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Book Synopsis A visual celebration of the evolution of style and fashion in San Francisco from 1906 to today, featuring some of the world’s most beloved designers, such as Cristóbal Balenciaga, Coco Chanel, Christian Dior, Alexander McQueen, Yves Saint Laurent, and many more.   The Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco (FAMSF) are home to one of the most significant collections of 20th- and 21st-century women’s fashion in the United States, and this book shares a particular segment of that collection: San Francisco style from 1906 to today, showcasing approximately 100 garments featured in a major exhibition.  San Francisco Style starts in 1906, when the devastating earthquake forced people to rebuild their lives from the ground up. The city’s desire to redefine itself and assert an international status in the wake of disaster manifested in the dress codes of its prominent women. The early collections in this book reflect San

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Book Synopsis

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Book Synopsis

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Book Synopsis

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