Fashion and textile design Books

Book SynopsisSteeve O. Buckridge is Director of Area Studies programs and Professor of African and Caribbean History at Grand Valley State University, Michigan, USA.Trade ReviewLace-bark is truly an extraordinary natural material, and one bound intimately to the history of the Caribbean. This book is the first to reveal the hidden lives of the men and women who created the complex chain from living plant to clothing, giving agency to those overlooked by botanists and historians. Buckridge makes a compelling case for regarding lace-bark in an African context, while also demonstrating its centrality in Jamaican culture. * Mark Nesbitt, Research Leader in Economic Botany at the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, UK *This book highlights a virtually forgotten textile, but also contributes significant insight into the lived experiences of enslaved and newly-freed Africans in the Caribbean. It celebrates the knowledge and talents that enslaved women brought from West Africa, while contemplating what the future might hold for this distinctive bark cloth. * Heather Akou, Indiana University, USA *Table of ContentsForeword by Joanne B. Eicher, Editor-in-Chief of the Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion and Regents Professor Emerita at the University of Minnesota, USA Introduction Chapter 1: Pre-History to Early Slave Trade: People of the Forest Chapter 2: Plantation Jamaica: Controlling the Silver Chapter 3: Victorian Jamaica: Fancy Fans and Doilies Conclusion Appendix Notes Glossary Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisWe dress to communicate who we are, or who we would like others to think we are, telling seductive fashion narratives through our adornment. Yet, today, fashion has been democratized through high-low collaborations, social media and real-time fashion mediation, complicating the basic dynamic of identity displays, and creating tension between personal statements and social performances. Fashioning Identity explores how this tension is performed through fashion production and consumption,by examining a diverse series of case studies - from ninety-year old fashion icons to the paradoxical rebellion in ''normcore'', and from soccer jerseys in Kenya to heavy metal band T-shirts in Europe. Through these cases, the role of time, gender, age memory, novelty, copying, the body and resistance are considered within the context of the contemporary fashion scene. Offering a fresh approach to the subject by readdressing Fred Davis' seminal concept of identity ambivalence' in FasTrade ReviewFashioning Identity provides fresh and compelling insights into fashion as a form of identity, both individually and collectively, across cultures from Copenhagen to Kenya. Offering insightful analysis and grounded case studies of contemporary fashion trends, from normcore and counterfeit fashion to the ubiquity of leopard print and soccer shirts, the book illustrates the universal symbolic construction of identity through fashion. This is a must-read and valuable companion for students and scholars of fashion alike. -- Anne Peirson-Smith, City University of Hong KongFashioning Identity provides a highly accessible, straightforward and original account of the central issues surrounding identity in fashion, from heavy metal bands to globalized soccer uniforms. This book will be of interest and use to all students of the subject. -- Malcolm Barnard, Loughborough UniversityTable of ContentsPreface List of Illustrations Acknowledgements Chapter 1: Introduction: Status Ambivalence and Fashion Flows Chapter 2: Yesterday’s Tomorrow: Fashion and Time Chapter 3: Perfectly Wrong Chapter 4: Copy Chic and the Ambivalent Original Chapter 5: Sartorial Shrugs and Other Fashion Understatements Chapter 6: Not So Fast Fashion: The New Perseverance Chapter 7: The Devil's Playground: Fashioning Subcultural Identity Chapter 8: Trans-Global Narratives Chapter 9: Fashioning Zeitgeist Afterword Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisJulia Petrov is Curator of Western Canadian History at the Royal Alberta Museum and Adjunct Lecturer at the University of Alberta, Canada. She is the co-editor of The Thing About Museums (2011) and Narrating Objects, Collecting Stories (2012). Gudrun D. Whitehead is an assistant professor of museum studies at the University of Iceland in Reykjavík, Iceland. She is the Icelandic editor of the journal Nordisk Museologi and the lead editor of a forthcoming special edition of Museum and Society (2018).Trade ReviewFashioning Horror: Dressing to Kill on Screen and in Literature offers an incredible source to investigate the intriguing relationship between dress and horror as narrated in literature, cinema, and television. * The Journal of Dress History *Fashioning Horror unlocks the chilling wardrobe of a grisly array of sartorially obsessed monsters, ghosts and killers. The essays skilfully analyse the fashionable signification of the undead, flesh-eaters, slashers and their prey; a dazzling cast of fashion victims from the twelfth century to the present day. -- Jonathan Faiers, Professor of Fashion Thinking, Winchester School of Art, UK, and author of Dressing Dangerously: Dysfunctional Fashion in FilmThis book offers a worthwhile contribution to the highly apparent, but often overlooked, connection between fashion and horror. The authors in this collection pay great attention to the intricacies of fashion, costume and design across a range of horror genres. Most importantly, they explore the problems found in the link between materiality and genre itself. -- Royce Mahawatte, Central St Martins, University of the Arts, London, UKTable of ContentsList of Illustrations List of Contributors Introduction: Gudrun D. Whitehead and Julia Petrov, “Fashion and Fear” 1. Sara Piccolo Paci, "’Death Dress You Anew’: Fashion as Transience and Limit of Human Life in Christian Literature and Iconography between the 12th and 19th centuries” 2. Stephanie Bowry: “‘Their tattered mortal costumes will afford them none of the answers they seek’: Clothing immortals in the work of Anne Rice, Tanith Lee and Angela Carter” 3. Rafael Jaen and Robert I. Lublin: “Fashioning Frankenstein in Film: Brides of Frankenstein” 4. Sarah Heaton: “Wayward Wedding Dresses: Fabricating Horror in Dressing Rituals of Femininity” 5. Kasia Stempniak: “Fashioning Vengeance: Costume, Crime, and Contamination in Barbey d’Aurevilly’s La Vengeance d’une Femme” 6. Alanna McKnight: “Fashions From Hell: Jack the Ripper’s Enduring Influence on Dress” 7. Nigel Lezama: “Slasher Consciousness: Dandyism As Killer” 8. Rafael Jaen and Robert I. Lublin: “Fashioning Frankenstein in Film: Monsters and Men” 9. Nadia Buick and Alexandra Heller-Nicholas: “Horrific Transformations: Costume, Gender, and the Halloween Franchise” 10. Rose Butler: “Faces of Rage: Masks, Murderers and Motives in the Canadian Slasher Film” 11. Florent Christol: “Massacres and Masquerades: the Killer’s Costume in the American Slasher Film and the Cultural Myth of the Foolkiller” Index

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Book SynopsisCheryl Sim is Managing Director and Curator at Phi Foundation for Contemporary Art, Montreal, Canada.Trade ReviewProvides a thorough and nuanced analysis, of both the cheongsam's place in a globalized world, and what the garment represents to and on the bodies of women of Chinese descent all over the world. * The Journal of Dress History *By skillfully stitching race, gender and identity onto the cheongsam, Sim reveals the craft of the diasporic community and the multiplicity of this ethnic garment. * Wessie Ling, Northumbria University, UK *In the first study of its kind, Cheryl Sim adds original and valuable insights to existing knowledge of the cheongsam. Weaving a path between personal and national histories, she establishes the garment as a signifier of identity, belonging and agency. * Hazel Clark, Parsons School of Design, The New School, USA *Wearing the Cheongsam pulls a wily thread on this traditional Chinese dress, unravelling its complexity as exquisite adornment and cross-cultural signifier. Its power to encode women’s bodies is seamlessly explored by Cheryl Sim. * Monika Kin Gagnon, Concordia University, Canada *Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Preface Acknowledgements 1 Introduction: One size does not fit all 2 Determining the 'fabric' 3 The Cheongsam: A complex garment 4 Wearing practices in Canada: Ambivalence, Authenticity, and Agency 5 Getting inside The Fitting Room 6 Conclusion: Cheongsam 2.0 / Making alterations Index

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Book SynopsisAne Lynge-Jorlén is an independent fashion scholar, author of Niche Fashion Magazines and Director of Designers' Nest, a talent incubator for Nordic fashion graduates.Trade ReviewFashion Stylists is a timely book that fills a gap in modern fashion history and it successfully establishes styling as a worthy and valuable area of research. * Viscose *Fashion Stylists is an invaluable resource for students and professionals interested in image-making, the representation of style and fashion, entrepreneurship and the history of fashion professionals. * de la Pen *Interviews are meaningfully interwoven with the scholarly chapters ... [and] provide first-hand insights ... [A] groundbreaking book. * International Journal of Fashion Studies *A welcomed and timely publication that brings together an array of sophisticated scholarship and interdisciplinary approaches and is greatly complemented by a series of in-depth interviews. An audience of students, academics and practitioners alike will benefit from this informative and far-reaching work. * Felice McDowell, University of the Arts London, UK *An exciting, well-illustrated collection, employing wideranging methodologies, from archival research to interviews with practitioners, to tell us all we need to know – and more – about fashion styling. Recommended to anyone interested in the creative evolution of fashion. * Hazel Clark, Parsons School of Design, The New School, New York, USA *Table of ContentsList of Illustrations List of Plates Notes on Contributors Acknowledgements Introduction: Fashion Stylists. History, Meaning and Practice By Ane Lynge-Jorlén Part 1: History and Profession of the Stylist Within and Beyond Magazines Chapter 1. Stylist: Etymology and History of a Role By Philip Clarke Chapter 2. In the Changing Room: A study of the act of styling before ‘styling’ in Danish fashion, 1900-1965 By Marie Riegels Melchior Chapter 3. The Homeless and The Hunchback. Experimental Styling, Assembled Bodies and New Material Aesthetics in Niche Fashion Magazines By Ane Lynge-Jorlén Chapter 4. Examining Uncertainty: An interview with Anders Sølvsten Thomsen By Susanne Madsen Chapter 5. Finding Beauty in the Moment: An interview with Elizabeth Fraser-Bell By Susanne Madsen Chapter 6. Styling Unpopular Knowledge: An Interview with Akeem Smith By Jeppe Ugelvig Part 2: Identity, Gender, Ethnicity and Style Narratives Chapter 7. ‘Rethinking Fashion’: Caroline Baker and Nova Magazine 1967- 1975 By Alice Beard Chapter 8. ‘Looking Good in a Buffalo Stance’: Ray Petri and the Styling of New Masculinities By Shaun Cole Chapter 9. Styling ‘90s Hip-Hop, Fashioning Black Futures By Rachel Lifter Chapter 10. Questioning Fashion’s Parameters: An Interview with Benjamin Kirchhoff By Susanne Madsen Chapter 11. Exploring the Female Gaze: An Interview with Roxane Danset By Francesca Granata Chapter 12. Building Little Sculptures: An Interview with Vanessa Reid By Susanne Madsen Part 3: Global Fashion Media and Geographies of Styling Practices Chapter 13. The Stylist’s Trade: Fashion Styling in Milan in an Era of Digitisation By Paolo Volonté Chapter 14. Commercial Styling. An Ethnographic Study on Styling Practices at H&M By Philip Warkander Chapter 15. Twisting References: An Interview with Lotta Volkova By Susanne Madsen Chapter 16. Creating Orderly Chaos: An Interview with Naomi Itkes By Maria Ben Saad Index

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Book SynopsisElizabeth Friendship wrote the system of cutting for Royal WelshCollege of Music and Drama and taught there for over 25 years. Forseveral years she did all the cutting for the Welsh National Opera, andprior to that she cut all costumes at the Citizen's Theatre. Shetrained in Fashion at St Martin's School of Art, London and her firstjob was drafting patterns at J.P Coats.Trade Review'visually handsome' Costume - 2010

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Book Synopsis

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Book Synopsis

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