Fashion and textile design Books

Book SynopsisTextiles and Fashion explores the integration oftextile design with fashion, showing the manyways designers use fibre, fabric construction andsurface treatments within a garment and on thebody. It begins with a brief history of textiles infashion, showing the links with technical innovationand social developments. You'll then briefly learnabout the processes of textile design, includingethical and environmental considerations, aswell as fibre production, dyeing and finishintechniques, before moving on to making the most ofdifferent surface treatments and the ways in whichcolour and trend influence fashion and textiles. This 3rd edition includes updated coverage ofemerging technologies, including smart textilesand 3D printing, and interviews with fashiondesigners to offer insight into how they use textilesin their work. Overall, this is the ideal introductionto using textiles within a fashion context.Table of ContentsIntroduction 1. The Textile Sample A very brief history of textiles Future fabrics Designing textiles Basic textile design principles Textiles into production Interview: Duncan Cheetham Projects: Drawing and mark making 2. Fibres Natural fibres Man-made fibres New fibre developments Yarn Dyeing Dyeing effects Finishing processes Interview: Manel Torres Project: Finishing techniques 3. Fabric Construction Weave Developed weave structures Knit Other forms of construction Interview: Tina Lutz Project: Design development 4. Surface Treatments Print Printing media Pattern Embroidery and fabric manipulation Embroidery techniques Embellishment Interview: James Stone Project: Reinventing a classic 5. Colour and Trends Colour Colour and design The trend industry Flow of information Interview: Philippa Wagner Project: Trends 6. Textiles Used in Fashion Design Choosing fabrics for fashion design Function Aesthetics Cost and availability Market level and genre Designing with textiles Garment construction Interview: Anne Sofie Madsen Project: Deconstruct – reconstruct Conclusion Glossary Bibliography Useful resources

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Book SynopsisIn this essential introduction to contemporary printed textile design, designer and educator Alex Russell explores creative and commercial studio practice, including:- developing sophisticated skills with image and colour- how to make effective use of context in your work- strategies for a career in designYou'll learn how history and technology shape print design, plus how to balance innovation with industry requirements, including fashion, home interiors, giftware and stationery. There's practical advice on developing a professional portfolio, and how good communication skills can get your work noticed. This updated edition includes expanded sections on digital design and social media, and their impact on portfolio development, manufacturing, and promotion, as well as advice on establishing an ethical, sustainable practice for the future.Table of Contents1. An Overview of Printed Textile Design History The Digital Revolution Environmental and Ethical Issues Professional Contexts 2. The Creative Design Process The Brief Research, Development and Final Designs Colour Design Composition 3. Technology, Tools and Professional Practice Printing Technologies and Design Design Tools, Space and Process Professional Practice 4. Designing for the World Design and Industry Design and Global Issues Design and Communication 5. Design Style and Content Design Categories Colourways and Co-Ordinates Balancing Tradition and Innovation 6. Working as a Designer Building Collections Building Portfolios Building a Career Bibliography Glossary Acknowledgements

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Book SynopsisHow do fashion designers conceive of, develop and ultimately launch commercially and creatively successful collections? Developing a Fashion Collection walks you through the process, exploring research techniques, sources of inspiration, forecasting trends and designing for different markets. From couture to high street, knitwear to accessories and covering the implications of online shopping there''s advice on every aspect of creating your collection through 27 insightful interviews with international practitioners. Interviewees include John Mooney, Brand Creative Director at ASOS and Jane Palmer Williams, Head of Executive Development at LVMH.This 3rd edition also covers silhouette, fittings and final samples, sustainable practice, developing high street collections, fabric selection and finding inspiration through vintage designs.Trade ReviewA feast of visual stimuli, this inspirational guide offers insider information and intelligent references from industry-recognized professionals. -- Hywel Davies, Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London, UKA clear road map with inspiring examples and industry insights, this new edition provides an up-to-date, holistic view of what ought to be considered when building a successful fashion collection. An essential read for our fashion design students. -- Aki Choklat, College for Creative Studies, Detroit, USAThis book demystifies the fundamental process of developing a collection and will be a core text for any fashion design course, and a ‘go to’ for young aspiring fashion designers with its combination of essential terms and best practices. -- Leslie Holden, Co-Founder of the Digital Fashion GroupThis book supports the reader, from how to select research ideas and use them, to developing these ideas into something relevant to the final product. I would recommend to all students. -- Adrien Roberts, Accademia Costume and Moda, Italy and trustee of Graduate Fashion FoundationTable of ContentsIntroduction 1. What is a Collection? How to Start a Collection Market Research Inspiration Fabric Sourcing Silhouette Development Forecasting Trends Archiving Editing Collections The Team Fittings and Samples Showing the collection Interviews: Martin Raymond, The Future Laboratory Steven Philip The Mr. Steven Philip Catherine Teatum & Rob Jones, Teatum Jones Rebekah Roy Joshua Kane 2. Collections and Their Influences Background Historical Cultural Conceptual Functional Political Futuristic Artistic Sustainable Interviews: Fiona Stuart, Rellik Dr. Noki Tracy Mulligan, People Tree Duran Lantink Bianca Saunders 3. Designing for Different Markets Haute Couture Ready-to-wear Designer Labels Luxury Brands Designer Collaborations High Street Online Shopping Interviews: Giles Deacon Sadie Clayton Charles Jeffrey Maria Olofsgard, COS John Mooney, ASOS Jane Palmer Williams, LVMH 4. Specialist Collections Childrenswear Knitwear Print Denim Active Sportswear Corporate wear Interviews: Eva Karayiannis, Caramel Baby & Child Matty Bovan Nicolas Garcia, Roberto Cavalli Charli Cohen Jonathan Cheung, Levi’s Design Will Broome 5. The Student Collection The Brief Your Portfolio Research and Development Presentation Interviews: Saskia Lenaerts Victoria Lyons Megan Greenfield Edie Ashley Lynn Sungurtekin Margret Sam Conclusion

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Book SynopsisAre you a researcher struggling to mine and make sense of a mountain of fashion data? Are you interested in learning about how digital methods and tools could enhance your research? Have you thought about ways to spark and engage in academic conversations on social media? Have you wondered how digital technologies are internationalizing the field of fashion and textile studies? Digital Research Methods in Fashion and Textile Studies presents the reader with a variety of digital methodologies to help build skills in searching for, analyzing, and discussing vintage design, photography, and writing on fashion, as well as historic and ethnographic dress and textile objects themselves. Each chapter focuses upon a different method, problem, or research site, including: - Maximalism and mixed-methods approaches to research - Searching large databases effectively - Pattern recognition and visual searching- New trends in academic communication - Critical reading, use, and citation Trade ReviewMany undergraduates are invested in and knowledgeable about pop culture, material culture, and fashion, and that is where Sikarskie's book can prove invaluable beyond the fashion and textile disciplines: it is rife with excellent sample searches … Summing Up: Essential. All readers. * CHOICE *... an essential guidebook for fashion studies scholars. Engaging and clearly written, this comprehensive book covers everything from blogging to coding. Sikarskie’s mixed-method approach is valuable to students and will refresh the practices of established researchers. * Colleen Hill, curator of costume and accessories, The Museum at FIT *Digital Research Methods ... is a breath of fresh air. Sikarskie delineates the cross-disciplinary nature of digital fashion and textile research in a fun and engaging manner, providing an invaluable resource for students and seasoned scholars alike. * Clare Sauro, Drexel University, USA *Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Acknowledgments 1 Introduction: A New Maximalism Unit I: Searching 2 Text-based Searching Strategies Case Study: In Search of Kate Moss 3 Visual Searching Unit II: Connecting 4 Blogging, Research, and Instagram 5 Critical Reading of Social Media Texts Case Study: Reading the Moschino "Capsule Collection" Unit III: Visualizing 6 Data Visualization 7 Mapping Case Study: Coding Fashion is Spinach Conclusions: Responding to the Critique of Minimalism Post-script: Maximalist Muse: A Conversation with Kristen Bateman Bibliography Glossary Index Join the Conversation on Instagram!

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Book SynopsisThrough ten detailed case studies on groundbreaking brands like Vivienne Westwood, Vera Wang, Levi's, and The Gap Inc., Fashion Brand Stories shows how fashion retailers and designers use storytelling to establish and maintain relationships with their customers.These entertaining case studies explore the evolution of each brand as a cultural entity with its own carefully crafted personality. Aided by interviews with industry professionals, you'll learn how brands start out, grow and encounter success or failure and how to apply those hard-won lessons to your own thoughts on branding. This beautifully illustrated third edition covers the changing role of social media, celebrity endorsements, quality over quantity, and more ethical sourcing, manufacturing, and consumption.Instructor's resources to accompany this edition are available at bloomsbury.pub/fashion-brand-stories-3eTrade ReviewYou don't have to follow fashion to enjoy Fashion Brand Stories ... Reading feels like strolling along a sparkling shopping corridor as Hancock explains how retailers gain prominence, revealing the strategy and mythology behind what we see in the windows. * Broad Street Review *A unique overview of how brands develop, and whether their stories authentically evolve or are cleverly designed. * Dr. Karen Cross, Academic Strategic Lead in the School of Creative and Cultural Business, Robert Gordon University, UK *Fashion Brand Stories is an insightful text for anyone who wishes to understand the importance of design, critical cultural theory, and storytelling as methods of creating fashion brands and a must for creatives and business professionals, who will benefit from its engaging views on consumer brand culture. * Dr. Vicki Karaminas, Professor of Fashion, Massey University, New Zealand *Dr. Hancock gives the reader a book suffused with contemporary (and well-known) brand stories as an engaging introduction to key concepts in fashion and apparel studies. * Dr. Jessica Strübel, Associate Professor, Textiles, Fashion Merchandising and Design, The University of Rhode Island, USA *Table of ContentsPreface 1. Once Upon a Time: Brand/Story Fashion and Popular Culture: Interview with Jessica Strübel What Is Fashion Versus Style? What Is Fashion Branding? Public Relations Branding: Interview with Anne Peirson-Smith Fashion Branding and Storytelling The Goals of this Book Moving Beyond Fashion Brand Stories Discussion Questions Expand Your Knowledge Further Exploration 2. The Past, Present, and Future: A Conceptual Overview Postmodernism, Philosophy, and Theory Putting It All Together: Rhetorical Fashion, Encoding/Decoding, and Hyperreality Postmodern Branding Semantics Hypermodernism and Fashion Forms Meaning and Individual Style Branding and Consumer Theories Context, Consumers, and Meaning Future Consumption of Brands: Interview with Lorynn Divita Cultural Branding Theories Storytelling and Success Brands Lifestyle Merchandising and Emotional Meanings Scouting Future Fashion and Patterns: Interview with Krista Lowther Shifting Views and Consumers Speaking Out Discussion Questions Expand Your Knowledge Further Exploration 3. Democratization of Merchandising: Ralph Lauren History of a Merchandiser The Polo Line Films and Fragrance Redefining the Lifestyle and Going Global Luxury Branding: Interview with David Loranger The Empire Grows Ralph Lauren Home, Out of Africa, and the New York Flagship Store From Exotic Fragrances to the Rugby Store Innovation and Scrutiny Philanthropy and Stardom Discussion Questions Expand Your Knowledge Further Exploration 4. Rebel Brand Style: Vivienne Westwood A Marriage of Music and Fashion Queer and Punk Influence on Brands: Interview with Marvin Taylor Life Changes and Growth God Save the Planet: A Focus on Philanthropy Street Style Success and Subcultural Leadership What Will the Future Hold? Discussion Questions Expand Your Knowledge Further Exploration 5. A Designer of Branded Occasions: Vera Wang Vera Wang: Wedding Expert and Role Model Who Is Vera Wang? Vera Wang’s Branding Story Fashioning Personal Brand Success: Interview with Amanda Buchanan Wang Builds Her Brand Name Vera Wang’s Mass Merchandising The Career Continues Discussion Questions Expand Your Knowledge Further Exploration 6. The Branding of Masstige: The Gap, Inc. Gap History and the Sweat Wall New Fashion Gatekeeping: Individuals of Style and Everyone in Khaki Branding Mass Fashion and Off-Price Retail: Interview with Nancy Mair Into the Twenty-First-Century Groove Labor Controversy and Change Moving Forward Discussion Questions Expand Your Knowledge Further Exploration 7. Celebrity Collaborations and Philanthropy: MAC History of Estée Lauder Estée Lauder Today Branding Sneakers: Interview with Sean Williams Makeup Art Cosmetics: MAC Philanthropic Branding with a Twist: VIVA GLAM Celebrity Endorsement, Collaborations, and Genderless Boundaries Discussion Questions Expand Your Knowledge Further Exploration 8. Retro-Branding: Levi Strauss & Co. History of Levi Strauss & Co. Denim Overalls Become Blue Jeans Street Style Influence: Interview with Brent Luvaas Making Statements: 501 Jeans and Brand/Story Sales, Strategy, and a Return to Heritage Discussion Questions Expand Your Knowledge Further Exploration 9. Branding Affordable Eyecare: Warby Parker The Eyeglasses Market Luxottica Silhouette International and Viva International Marchon and Safilo Charmant, Marcolin, and De Rigo A Branding King of Retail Operations: Interview with Michael J. Edwards Doing Things Differently: Warby Parker Warby Parker Moving Forward with Vision Falling from B Corp Status COVID-19: Being There for Consumers Discussion Questions Expand Your Knowledge Further Exploration 10. Rebranding American Manufacturing: Shinola History of Shinola The Product Line and Education Watches Paper Journals: Edwards Brothers Malloy, Michigan Bicycles: Waterford Precision Cycles, Wisconsin Shinola Jewelry, Leather Goods, and Pet Accessories Sustainable Design and Branding: Interview with Chris Baeza Shinola Controversy “Bougie Crap” and Diversification Discussion Questions Expand Your Knowledge Further Exploration

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Book SynopsisThe history of the fashion industry has been well written as it relates to people who conform to certain physical norms and cultural stereotypes, whereas the inequality in access to the world of fashion has been largely ignored. Despite this lack of coverage, much work has taken place over the centuries to enable people who live with disability to participate in fashionable culture. This book tells that story via perspectives of notable historical figures, events and movements, and continues the discourse with a look at some of the contemporary developments in clothing and fashion.The Intersection of Fashion and Disability takes the long view, from early attempts to conceal unsightly' bodies of royalty and nobility via creative innovation through growing contemporary awareness of inclusive fashion and how future work can be driven by technology and cultural acceptance.Trade ReviewInfused in a historical context of adapted clothing designs, lies a recurrent reminder to each of us with disabilities that we deserve continued designs to assure our unadulterated inclusion in society. Kate’s decades of dedicated work will enable me, and other Occupational Therapy educators, to proliferate the future of dedicated and skilled therapists to join Kate’s efforts to promote a cultural change in the inclusion of all bodies, despite each person’s uniqueness. May the memory of my friend Birdie Minor continue to shine through many more women with disabilities as they advocate for disability rights adorned in clothing that allows them to feel whole. -- Paige Moore, Licensed Occupational Therapist and Adjunct Faculty at James Madison University and Mary Baldwin University, USAMarginalized fashion consumers are finally given voice in Kate Annett-Hitchcock’s hugely important book. This is fashion history as well as fashion present, the most timely analysis of fashion and disability that we all need to read. -- Dr Kate Strasdin, Senior Lecturer, Cultural Studies, Fashion and Textiles Institute, Falmouth University, UKThe Intersection of Fashion and Disability provides great historical background, which I feel many of my students need before starting to design. -- Grace Jun, Assistant Professor of Graphic Design, University of Georgia, USAFinally! This is the book that I've been waiting for … Annett-Hitchcock's prose is itself a pleasure, and the book does a superb job of making accessible a fashion history for those new to the field, alongside original (and I must say fabulous) research and insights. By moving between case studies, historical narrative, and a dedicated analytic timeline, it moderates between history, aesthetics, economics, and sociology. -- Jessica Burstein, Associate Professor of English, University of Washington, USAAn essential text that illuminates an untold history, while crafting a blueprint for Disabled people to be creators, consumers and a collective within the fashion system. * Sinéad Burke, CEO & Founder, Tilting the Lens *Table of ContentsList of Figures Contributors Preface Foreword Acknowledgements Abbreviations Glossary 1. Establishing Significance Introduction 1.1 Purpose of the book: It’s a fashion story! 1.2 Medical and social models of disability 1.3 Framing of disability fashion history Summary 2. Underpinnings: Events Prior to 1800 Introduction 2.1 Setting the stage for the historical discussion 2.2 Pre-eighteenth century 2.3 Impact of the Age of Enlightenment: 1740-1800 Summary Boxed Profiles: Mrs. Morrell and Miss Hawtin 3. Improvisation and Innovation: 1800-1920 Introduction 3.1 The early to mid-nineteenth century Charitable Organizations 3.2 The late nineteenth century: Effects of war 3.3 The early twentieth century: War, therapy & industry Summary Boxed Profile: Lavinia Warren 4. Rehabilitation, independence & finally fashion: 1930s to early 1970s Introduction 4.1 Impact of work, World War Two and rehabilitation: 1925-1950 4.2 Academic and government funded research: 1950-1973 4.3 Independent designers-Research and practice: 1950-1960 4.4 Connecting research, outreach and small business through independence & civil rights movements: 1960-1973 4.5 Other activist efforts and government initiatives Summary Boxed Profile: Frida Kahlo 5. Individual appearance management between two Acts: 1973-1990 Introduction 5.1 Impact of the 1973 Rehabilitation Act 5.2 Centers and workshops Design Without Limits Center for Universal Design 5.3 Other relevant publications 5.4 The beginning role of retail Summary Boxed Profile: Sunae Park Evans, Senior Costume Conservator, Smithsonian Institution 6. Contemporary Design and Technology Introduction 6.1 The Americans with Disabilities Act 6.2 Fashion design developments in context 6.3 Design interviews Alexandra Palmer on Izzy Camelleri of IZAdaptive Lucy Jones of FFORA Grace Jun of OpenStyleLab Justin LeBlanc on Justin LeBlanc Design 6.4 Do we have a disability design process? 6.5 Harnessing technological developments Summary 7. A Story of disabled makers Introduction 7.1 Disabled makers in history 7.2 The legacy of disabled makers Summary 8. Tying it all together Introduction 8.1 Patterns of success 8.2 Tying it all together 8.3 Where we could be heading 8.4 Disability fashion history timeline

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Book SynopsisDeeply erudite but also playful and full of wit. Salman RushdieFashion Sense is designed to explode fashion, and with it, the stigma in philosophy against fashion's superficiality. Fashion appears to be altogether differently occupied, disingenuous and insubstantial, even sophistic in its pretense to peddle surfaces as if they were something deep. But is fashion's apparent beguilement more philosophical than it seems? And is philosophy's longing for exposed depth concealing fashion in its anti-fashion stance? Using primarily ancient Greek texts, peppered with allusions to their echoes across the history of philosophy and contemporary fashion and pop culture, Gwenda-lin Grewal not only examines the rift between fashion and philosophy, but also challenges the claim that fashion is modern. Indeed, fashion's quarrel with philosophy may be at least as ancient as that infamous quarrel between philosophy and poetry alluded to in Plato's Republic. And the quest for fashiTrade ReviewFASHION | SENSE is Gwenda-lin Grewal’s brilliant meditation, deeply erudite but also playful and full of wit, on clothing as disguise, revelation, acquiescence, transformation, identity, and second self, as the "bodies we put on." In Grewal’s hands the “age-old argument” between philosophy and fashion, the things of the mind and the things of the body, is scintillatingly renewed. * Salman Rushdie, Distinguished Writer in Residence, New York University, USA *Fashion | Sense: On Philosophy and Fashion is a brilliant book... The book is extremely original in writing and thinking. Grewal has style in spades, and this style creates (or rather is) her considerable substance. The book thrums with energy and wit, and it was an absolute pleasure to read. It took my breath away. * Fashion Theory *Fashion | Sense: On Philosophy and Fashion by Gwenda-lin Grewal explores how philosophers underestimate fashion's power in their search for the naked truth. Mercifully devoid of academic jargon and pomposity, the book is studded with brilliant and often witty observations on the unexpected parallels between philosophy and fashion. * Valerie Steele, Director and Chief Curator, The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, USA *Gwenda-lin Grewal’s Fashion | Sense should be read more than once, for it moves conceptually, on multiple levels, and stylistically on many others. If you read it for its insights into Ancient Greek philosophy, you will find yourself returning to it for its sharp criticism of contemporary society—mores and looks. On a third time, you may want to reread it just for its prose. * British Journal of Aesthetics *This rich, knowledgeable, variegated book challenges easy assumptions about fashion’s modernity. Grewal juxtaposes contemporary manifestations of fashion with situations and characters from ancient literatures in an expert pursuit of fashion-thinking, where “fashion-thinking” means philosophy’s engagement with dress, but also fashion’s own mode of reflection. * Nickolas Pappas, Professor of Philosophy, The City University of New York Graduate Center, USA *A fascinating book by a great new talent which wholly successfully drags philosophy out the closet. In writing that is at once clear and deep, classically informed and very funny, Grewal makes a wholly convincing case for the kinship of philosophy and fashion. Highly recommended." * Simon Critchley, Hans Jonas Professor, The New School for Social Research, New York *Table of ContentsNote to Reader Preface: The 'Other' Ancient Quarrel 1. Fashion Sense 2. Phantom Selves 3. The Dead 4. The Dandy 5. Divine Tailoring 6. The Beauty of Ugliness 7. The Question of Fashion's Beginning Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisFashion ephemerafrom catalogues and invitations to press releaseshave long been overlooked by the fashion industry and fashion academics. Fashion Remains redresses the balance, putting these objects centre stage and focusing on the wider creative practice of contemporary fashion designers, photographers, graphic designers, make-up artists, and many more. Fashion ephemera are considered not as disposable promotional devices, but as windows into hidden networks of collaboration and value creation in the fashion system.Taking an interdisciplinary approach, Fashion Remains explores the unseen and privately circulated fashion ephemera produced by today's most prominent international fashion designers such as Margiela, Yamamoto, and Raf Simons. Showcasing a unique archive of materials, it focuses on Antwerp's avant-garde fashion scene and reveals the potential of these ephemeral objects to evoke and call into question material and immaterial knowledge about the fashion industryTrade ReviewFashion Remains carries out an unprecedented study, which analyzes material that has been overlooked by researchers in the field of fashion studies ... Marco Pecorari and his book contribute to the development of fashion studies, and it is a great reading recommendation for those researchers looking for new perspectives within their studies on material culture and fashion. The book enables the reader to realize the potential to explore other artefacts, places, and practices of the fashion system beyond clothing, fashion shows, and museums, such as fashion ephemera and the archive. * Journal of Dress History *[A]n excellent book. An engaging read by a researcher with a compelling and at times poetic authorial voice, and a worthy addition to any fashion library both personal and institutional. Pecorari invites us as fashion scholars to triangulate our research with an alternative data set, that we may generate yet more nuanced and compelling analyses of our subjects. Using his examination of ephemera through communication theoretical perspectives to advance a valuable new sub-discipline of fashion research. * Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body and Culture *Table of ContentsAcknowledgments Introduction CHAPTER 1 – AUTHORIAL NETWORKS Matters of Signatures: from Authenticity to Intimacy Authorial Bodies and Stories Authorizing Visible and Invisible Voices Multiple Authors Aesthetic and Disciplinary Dialogues Keeping and Expanding Authorship Blurring Fashion Authorities Authorial Networks CHAPTER 2 – PERFOMANCES OF TIME One Ephemera, Multiple Events Between Disappearance and Permanence The Look Moment Show(ing) Time The Liveness of the Show Show Mediatization Allusive Fragments Performances of Imagination CHAPTER 3 – POETIC TRANSFORMATIONS A Ménage à Trois Haptic Fashion Images Material Animations The Sense of Fabric Point of Touch Paratexts and Touching Concepts Poetics Transformations Conclusions Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisThis book can be read through the Bloomsbury Open Access programme and is available on www.bloomsburycollections.com. It is funded by Knowledge Unlatched.The historiography of the Great War has been significantly renewed in recent years; yet, despite its crucial social, economic, and cultural importance, the role that fashion played in shaping wartime experiences and economies on an international scale between 1914 and 1918 has largely gone unaddressed. Fashion, Society, and the First World War fills this gap by offering a comprehensive analysis of the impact of the war on the ways that the fashion industry functioned in a global wartime economy, as well as on the ways that women and men negotiated this new world.With an international, thematic approach, and illustrated in full color throughout, this volume discusses the reconfiguration of the fashion industry, wartime style and production, and the reframing of selfhood, gender roles, and national identity through Trade ReviewA coherent, fresh and fascinating study by an impressive, international group of researchers … Because of its international base, the high quality of the research manifested by its 19 contributors, and the sensitive structure set in pace by its editors, this book marks another important step in the current positive and exciting development in dress and fashion history publications. * Lou Taylor, University of Brighton, UK *This innovative book reveals how the global war altered not only the business of fashion on an international scale but also had a strong impact on personal dress practices. It splendidly shows how fashion became a powerful symbol of nationalism and played an important role concerning social norms including gender and class relationship. * Adelheid Rasche, Germanisches Nationalmuseum, Germany *A long overdue transnational exploration of the business and beauty of fashion during the Great War, covering diverse aspects of wartime clothing industry, artistry and identity through absorbing scholarship and impactful illustrations. * Lucy Adlington, author of Great War Fashion: Tales from the History Wardrobe and Stitches in Time *Table of ContentsLists of Figures List of Contributors Acknowledgements, Maude Bass-Krueger, Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, and Sophie Kurkdjian Notes on Translation Timeline Introduction, Maude Bass-Krueger and Sophie Kurkdjian I. The Reconfiguration of the International Couture Industry 1: Wartime Marketing of Parisian Haute Couture in the United States, 1914-1917 Mary Lynn Stewart 2: Boué Sœurs, “Compelled by the War” Waleria Dorogova 3: “Gladdening the hearts of warriors:” the relationship between Lucile’s romantic fashions and morale in World War I Georgina Ripley 4: Die Kriegskrinoline - A Feminine Fashion Between Past and Future Birgit Haase 5: Fashion in Belgium during the Great War and the Case of Norine Nele Bernheim II. The Materiality of Wartime Fashion and Textile Industries 6: Dressed to Quill: The Origin and Significance of the Feathered Showgirl in World War I Paris Emily Brayshaw 7: Between Fashion and Folk: Dress Practices in Alsace during World War I Sara Hume 8: The Lace Industry in Belgium and France During the War Marguerite Coppens 9: Industrial and Handmade Clothing Production in the Netherlands, a Neutral Country during First World War Marta Kargól 10: Wartime Fabrics in the Historical Archives of Como Weavers and in the Collections of the Fondazione Antonio Ratti Margherita Rosina III. Problematic Uniforms: Male and Female Experiences and Second-Hand Trade Networks 11: “Breeched, Booted, and Cropped:” a dress historical analysis of the uniform worn by members of Britain’s Women’s Land Army, 1917-1919 Amy de la Haye 12: The French Home Front in 1914-1918: An Investigation of Female Workwear Jérémie Brucker 13: Rushing to Suit Up: French Aviation’s Adjustment to Wartime Uniforms, 1914-1916 Guillaume de Syon 14: The Spoils of War: Use and Transformations of Second-Hand Uniforms during the First World War in France Manuel Charpy IV. Fashion in Print: Questions of National Fashion and Gender 15: The Gentleman Turned “Enemy:” Men’s Fashion in the Hungarian Press, 1914-1918 Zsolt Mészáros 16: The Politics of Fashion: German Fashion (Writings) in Times of War Burcu Dogramaci 17: The Italian Fashion Magazine Margherita: the War, Women, and the Call for a “Moda Italiana,” 1914-1918 Enrica Morini 18: Le Flambeau’s Fashion Discourse during the First World War: Towards a Retrograde Femininity? Nigel Lezama 19: Is Beauty Useless? Fashion, Gender, and British Wartime Society in Punch Magazine, 1915 Andréa Kollnitz Index

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Book SynopsisEdith Snook is Professor of English at the University of New Brunswick, Fredericton, Canada.Trade ReviewA thick, tangled and deliciously idiosyncratic history of hair ... There is plenty to inform and intrigue. * Times Literary Supplement *Individually, Edith Snook’s international team of historians and literary scholars brings fresh new perspectives to nine key themes in renaissance hair. Collectively, the volume powerfully explores the extent to which, from 1450 to 1650, when sumptuary laws policing European fashion were at their most influential, social distinctions overruled personal preference to dictate – and reflect – how people styled and cared for their hair. -- M A Katritzky, Open University, UKA fascinating collection of essays written from a wealth of disciplinary perspectives … This wonderful volume looks at hair as a cultural artifact whose colour, cut or arrangement, modest covering or disheveled disarray communicated a wealth of information about an individual. This is a valuable contribution to Renaissance and early modern history of the body and material history. -- Sara F. Matthews-Grieco, Syracuse University, ItalyTable of ContentsSeries Preface Introduction 1. Religion and Ritualized Belief, Gary K. White 2. Self and Society, Anu Korhonen 3. Fashion and Adornment, Carole Collier Frick 4. Production and Practice, Annemarie Kinzelbach 5. Health and Hygiene, Edith Snook 6. Gender and Sexuality, Mark Albert Johnston 7. Race and Ethnicity, Nicholas Jones 8. Class and Social Status, Jana Mathews 9. Cultural Representations, Lyn Bennett Notes Bibliography Notes on Contributors Index

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Book SynopsisGeraldine Biddle-Perry is Associate Lecturer in Cultural Studies at Central Saint Martins, London, UK, and co-author of Hair: Styling, Culture and Fashion.Trade ReviewA thick, tangled and deliciously idiosyncratic history of hair ... There is plenty to inform and intrigue, partly because the study of hair demands an exhilarating disciplinary range: from the art of cuts and colours, the history of scissors, razors and combs and the sociology of barbershops, to the semiotics of hair pulling and lock tugging, the ethnography of “Afros”, and the sexual politics of boyish bobs. * Times Literary Supplement *[I]n carefully argued, insightful case studies that deploy sophisticated analytical tools, this volume’s contributors document the complex shifts in hair dressing and grooming which have located hair as central to contemporary individualistic self-fashioning and as a key signifier of sexuality and lifestyle politics. Innovative and persuasive, this collection provides an invaluable history of hair for those who want to truly understand its modern significance and powerful cultural status. -- Andrew Stephenson, University of East London, UKTable of ContentsList of Illustrations General Editor’s Preface Introduction: Modern Hair in a Modern Age, Geraldine Biddle-Perry 1. Religion and Ritualized Belief, Yudit Kornberg Greenberg and Hanna Cody 2. Self and Society, Elisha P. Renne (Part 1) and Royce Mahawatte (Part 2) 3. Fashion and Adornment, Alice Beard 4. Production and Practice, Kim Smith 5. Health and Hygiene, Paul R. Deslandes 6. Gender and Sexuality, Chelsea Johnson and Kristen Barber 7. Race and Ethnicity, Shirley Anne Tate 8. Class and Social Status, Geraldine Biddle-Perry 9. Cultural Representations, Nathalie Khan Notes Bibliography Notes on Contributors Index

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Book SynopsisI adored this book and can't recommend it highly enough Cathy HorynBeautifully executed Norma KamaliA visual feast Giles DeaconEntertaining, thought-provoking, and serious. Read it and learn. Colin McDowellClothes from our past shape who we are, and who we will be. Why do we hold on to certain garments and what do they tell us and others about our lives?Mark C. O'Flaherty asks 14 individuals who work with or use clothes in a unique way: how has fashion created something significant in your life? Through fascinating conversations, and photoshoots of their private collections, in New York, London and Milan, he constructs a portrait of each person through their intimate relationships with fashion, featuring The Idiosyncratic Fashionistas, Charlie Casely-Hayford, John Matheson (McQueen Vault), Sandy Powell, Stephen Jones, Carla Sozzani, Winn Austin, Carmen Haid, Susanne Bartsch, Karlo Steel, Karim Rashid, Steven Philip, and Desmond is Amazing.How have these people used faTrade ReviewA beautifully executed book. Rarely does such a high level of talent for photography and writing exist in one person. It exists in Mark C. O'Flaherty. * Norma Kamali *A wondrous insight into some of the most important and singular collections in the world. A visual feast, packed with insightful psychological interpretations. The developing plot of each chapter, studying the relationship between the subject, their chosen pieces, and the human condition is truly fascinating. * Giles Deacon *This isn’t simply a book about fashion collectors, though it is. This is a book about the daring creators of fashion during a magical period in the history of dress. O’Flaherty deftly weaves together the various narratives for an original account. I adored this book and can’t recommend it highly enough. * Cathy Horyn, ‘The Cut’, New York Magazine, USA *This is a very important book for anyone who cares about the strength and creativity of fashion. The “conversations” featured are entertaining, thought-provoking… And serious. Read it and learn. * Colin McDowell *A remarkable and heart-warming book: Mark C. O’Flaherty’s intimate portraits of diverse fashion collectors explores the relationship we have with fashion, expression, memory, and identity. The compendium surfaces big ideas about the cult of the brand, self-creation, and the psychology of collecting. * Harriet Quick *Mark C. O'Flaherty's book weaves us, in a tender way, through the emotional reasoning for holding on to garments from our past as we head into the future. * Suzy Menkes, podcaster and leading fashion authority *Narrative Thread provides unparalleled access to some of the world’s most extraordinary privately-owned collections, revealing the untold stories and hidden meanings behind fashion’s most significant garments. Alongside beautiful imagery, insightful conversations with the collectors offer thought-provoking perspectives on the significance of fashion and its impact on all our lives. * Andrew Groves, Westminster Menswear Archive, UK *Astounding. Reading this inspired me to rethink the story my clothes tell. * Amanda Harlech, from the Foreword *

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Book SynopsisConstricting styles and limited clothing choices can restrict a person with a disability from fully participating in social communities, employment and gatherings that have an unspoken dress code. Design has the power to change this.Fashion, Disability, and Co-design shows how collaborative, inclusive design techniques can produce garments and accessories that increase social inclusion. Grace Jun outlines practical techniques to help designers create their own inclusive collections, with detailed examples from interviews with professionals. 14 illustrated case studies show how engagement with disability communities to co-design clothing and accessories can lead to functional, wearablesolutions for people of all abilities without compromising style.Interviews:- Inclusive Representation in Fashion Narrative & Design Process Christina Mallon- Understanding the Use of Materials Angela Domsitz Jabara- Human Factors and Occupational

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Book SynopsisInside the Westminster Menswear Archive is a unique guide to the role of garment archives as an industry resource for designers to research and examine both historical garments and the work of their peers.With exclusive access to over 120 key garments from the Westminster Menswear Archive, spanning the last 275 years, each piece is brilliantly photographed in close-up detail and annotated with curator commentary, to inspire new generations of designers.Highlights include garments from: A-COLD-WALL*, Ahluwalia, Aitor Throup Studio, Alexander McQueen, Belstaff, Bernhard Willhelm, Burberry, Casely-Hayford, C.P. Company, Carol Christian Poell, Comme des Garçons, Craig Green, Dior Men, Fred Perry, Helmut Lang, Hussein Chalayan, Jean Paul Gaultier, Junya Watanabe, Louis Vuitton, Martine Rose, Meadham Kirchhoff, Nigel Cabourn, Paul Smith, Prada, Stone Island, Umbro, Undercover, Vexed Generation, and Vollebak.

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Book SynopsisThis major volume aims to re-colour the European world of dress, c.1300-1800. New dyes created one of the most important visual experiences of the period, yet their story has been side-lined by a focus on visual experiences shaped by the high arts. Meanwhile, theatrical productions and period films still abound with broad assumptions about the growing dominance of black clothing for elites during the period, while ordinary people are imagined having worn coarse greys and bleached garments. This volume presents clear evidence that even the clothing of the middle classes could be much more expensive than paintings, and that coloured clothing and accessories were ubiquitous across society.Contributors shed new light on the economic, environmental, and cultural dimensions of colour in dress. The range of dyes expanded considerably in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, drawing on Asian and Mediterranean knowledge, new collections of recipes, and the greater diversity

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a huge range and FREE tracked UK delivery on ALL orders.

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Book SynopsisJustine De Young is Associate Professor and Chairperson, History of Art, at the Fashion Institute of Technology, State University of New York (US). She previously taught art and fashion history at Harvard, Wellesley, Lesley, and Northwestern universities in the US. She is editor of Fashion in European Art (Bloomsbury, 2019) and the founding editor of the Fashion History Timeline website.

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Book SynopsisBrenda Polan is a fashion writer, editor, lecturer and academic. She was Fashion Editor and Women's Page Editor of The Guardian and has written for all Britain's major newspapers and many magazines. She was formerly Programme Director (Media) at London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London. Roger Tredre is Course Leader for the MA in Fashion Communication, at Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London. Prior to his academic career, he worked in newspaper journalism and was the first Editor-in-Chief of WGSN, the online fashion trends and research business. He has consulted widely for many leading fashion brands.

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a huge range and FREE tracked UK delivery on ALL orders.

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Book SynopsisVictorian Fashions for Menexplores British the styles and clothingthroughout the long reign of QueenVictoria from the late 1830s to the firstyears of the 20th century. Within area superb overview of the suits, coats, hats,hair styles, accoutrements, shoes and bootsthat typified the prevailing styles of men''s attirefor each decade. From those who had enoughmoney to have day and evening wearand clothes for sporting and outdooractivities to those with limited incomeand wardrobes or labouring folk withlittle more than the clothes they stoodup in.All decades are illustrated withoriginal photographs, adverts andcontemporary magazine illustrationsfrom the authors' own remarkablecollections and are accompanied bya knowledgeable and informativetext that describes the fashions, theirsocial history context and influencesreflected in the clothes of the time.Laid out in clear and easy to followchronological order the key featuresof the styles for each decade will helpfamily historians to datefamil

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Book SynopsisThe world of fashion is supposed to be glamorous . . . isn't it? A hilarious, authentic and big-hearted debut set behind the scenes of the glamorous and chaotic fashion industry, with its eccentric characters, towering expectations - and quite frankly ridiculous requests.Trade ReviewNatalie Lewis's debut novel is an addictive, glorious romp through the world of fashion PR. Reading Don't Believe the Hype feels like spending time with your funniest, most gossipy, best dressed friend * Clare Pooley *READ IMMEDIATELY * Claudia Winkleman *This book lifts the lid on the mad world of fashion * Anya Hindmarch *This book is hilarious. The season's must have * Minnie Driver *A brilliant fictionalised account of the industry . . . Perfect for fans of The Devil Wears Prada * MyWeekly *A romp of a novel that's just so much fun, I absolutely adored this behind-the-scenes glimpse into the messy world of fashion PR * Laura Jane Williams *A fictional behind-the-scenes look at the absurdities of the fashion industry, written by a PR with more than 30 years' experience * The Bookseller *A hilarious dive into the fascinating world of fashion PR, with copious amounts of glamour, demanding clients, and lots of twists. I was swept up in Frankie's world and didn't want it to end! * Heather Darwent *Fans of The Devil Wears Prada will love this * Prima *I literally gobbled this book up in one sitting. Great fun * Bishop's Stortford Independent *A fun glimpse into the fabulous word of fashion * MyWeekly *This brilliant book by Natalie Lewis, who worked for 30 years in the industry, offers an unrivalled behind-the-scenes look at fashion PR * Hello! *Fans of THE DEVIL WEARS PRADA and CALL MY AGENT will love this one! * Shemazing *The most exciting novel published in 2023 -- Ed Vaizey * Times Radio *So very charming . . . A perfect early summer read. It is a journey not only of the ups and downs of fashion PR, but of self-discovery, of growing up and finding paths you never could have expected, developing and keeping an open mind at every sequinned and studded obstacle * The National, Scotland *

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Book SynopsisThis book provides an overview of how the industry operates and describes the variety of jobs available. The responsibilities within design, technical and media roles are explained, supported by case studies of people currently working in companies from designer to high street level. Advice is provided on how to plan a career in each area.Table of ContentsPreface. 1 Introduction. 2 Textile Design. 3 Fashion Forecasting and Illustration. 4 Fashion Design. 5 Pattern Cutting. 6 Fabric Technology. 7 Garment Technology. 8 Sales and Marketing in the Fashion and Textiles Industry. 9 Fashion Buying. 10 Fashion Merchandising. 11 Retail Management. 12 Visual Merchandising. 13 Fashion PR. 14 Fashion Journalism. 15 Fashion Styling. 16 Fashion and Textiles Education. 17 Working for Yourself. 18 Finding Jobs in Fashion and Textiles. . Index

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Book Synopsis* This will be the first British textbook on the subject. * International approach, reflecting the global market for fashion. * The clothing industry is vast, currently worth GBP35 billion a year in the UK and growing.Trade Reviewit s a highly recommended read if you too want to work in fashion or even if you don t it gives great insight into the fashion through business eyes. (March 2013, Urbanoblog.com)Table of ContentsAcknowledgments xi Chapter 1 Introduction 1 Description of the book 2 Structure of the book 3 Chapter 2 Marketing Strategy 7 Introduction 8 Promotional strategy 8 Where are we now? 10 Where do we want to be? 10 How do we get there? 12 Models of advertising 13 Examples of promotional campaigns 13 Summary 15 References 16 Activities 16 Chapter 3 Tools and Media Channels 17 Introduction 18 Advertising 18 Public relations 26 Direct marketing 28 Personal selling 29 The retail environment 31 Summary 33 References 33 Activities 33 Chapter 4 The Power of Magazines 35 Introduction 36 A repertoire of magazines 36 The magazine–reader relationship – my magazine is my mate? 41 Teenage magazines 45 Advertising costs, circulation and context 45 Monthly and weekly magazines 50 Summary 52 References 52 Activities 53 Chapter 5 The Role of Public Relations 54 Introduction 55 Who carries out the PR function? 55 The costs of PR 57 The role of the journalist in PR 57 Credibility 58 How gender affects PR 61 Working out the value of product placement 61 Types of PR function 62 The role of the PR function 63 Providing evidence of effectiveness 68 Crisis management 69 Summary 71 References 71 Activities 71 Discussion questions 72 Chapter 6 Celebrity 73 Defining celebrity 74 Celebrity management 74 Celebrity endorsement 75 Theoretical background 77 Celebrity collaborations 79 Celebrity ranges 80 Celebrity saturation 80 Celebrity slip-ups 80 Celebrity and charities 81 The celebrity lifecycle 83 Measuring the effectiveness of celebrity endorsement 86 The major benefits of celebrity endorsements 87 The death of celebrity culture? 87 Summary 88 References 88 Activities 88 Chapter 7 The Retail Fashion Store Environment 89 Introduction 90 Consumer behaviour reviewed 90 Types of store 91 Store location 92 Approach and avoidance 94 Visual merchandising – the shop window 95 From visual merchandising to visual marketing 97 Hero pieces 98 Store layout and design 98 Stimulation of the senses 102 Store personnel 104 The virtual store environment 106 The payment experience 107 Auditing the retail environment – the mystery shopper 107 Future directions 108 Summary 109 References 109 Activities 109 Chapter 8 Trade Marketing Communications 111 Introduction 112 Press releases 113 Trade journals 117 Fashion shows 118 Fashion weeks 118 Showrooms 119 Exhibitions and trade shows 121 Trade marketing stands 125 Events 130 Websites 130 E-mail and social media 131 Supporting the trade 131 Summary 131 Activities 132 Chapter 9 International Fashion Marke ting Communications 133 Introduction 134 The international consumer 134 Operating outside the domestic market 134 Emerging markets 137 Developing versus developed markets 138 International regulatory frameworks 140 Standardisation and adaptation in international fashion marketing communications 141 General considerations for international marketing 143 Summary 145 References 146 Activities 146 Chapter 10 Regulatory Frameworks 150 Introduction 151 The role and remit of self-regulation 152 Hot topics in the fashion industry 152 The process and progress of a complaint 154 Communicating the results of adjudications 155 International considerations 156 Where the problems seem to lie 156 Summary 157 References 157 Activities 157 Chapter 11 Assessing the Effectiveness of Fashion Marketing Communications 158 Introduction 159 Models of advertising 160 Measuring effectiveness against campaign objectives 161 Assessing the effectiveness of traditional media 162 Qualitative research 165 Other methods of determining effectiveness 168 Costs of research 172 Summary 175 References 175 Activities 175 Chapter 12 Future Directions in Fashion Marketing Communications 181 Introduction 182 The changing landscape of media communications 182 Technological advances 182 Rich media and infotainment 183 Blogs 184 Career opportunities 185 Work experience 186 Top tips 191 The interview process 192 References 193 Activities 193 Index 195

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Book SynopsisPam Inder explores the evolution of the woman's fashion over the long nineteenth century - from the late Georgians to the Edwardians.

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Book Synopsis''Delicious and utterly absorbing... This is a book to be relished and savoured. I can''t recommend it enough'' GILL THOMPSON, author of THE CHILD ON PLATFORM ONE''Historical fiction at its finest. Antoinette Chanel will capture your heart'' ANN WEISGARBER, author of THE PERSONAL HISTORY OF RACHEL DUPREE ---The unforgettable story of the sisters who changed fashion forever. For readers who fell in love with THE PARIS WIFE and THE AGE OF LIGHT.Gabrielle and Antoinette know they''re destined for something better. Abandoned to a convent orphanage, they are raised for simple lives. But at night they dream of a glittering future, and the Chanel sisters are determined to prove themselves worthy. Their journey propels Coco and Ninette out of poverty to performing in bohemian cafés and stylish music halls, and soon on to Paris and a small hat shop on the rue Cambon, where a boutique business takes hold and expands to the gl

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Book SynopsisClothes are inherently geographical objects, yet few of us consider the social and economic significance of their journey from design to production to consumption. The Geographies of Fashion is the first in-depth study of fashion economies from a geographer's perspective, exploring the complex relationship between our attachment to the clothes we own, love and desire, and their geographic and economic ties. How far does a garment physically travel from factory to wardrobe? How do clothes come to have social or economic value and who or what creates it? What are the geographies of fashion and how do they interact with one another? This ground-breaking book powerfully reframes fashion spaces, from the body to the city, digital or virtual space to material production, positioning fashion at the centre of contemporary culture and collective identities.Combining contemporary theoretical approaches with a cutting-edge analysis of international fashion brands and institutions includinTrade ReviewIn Louise Crewe’s extraordinary new book, fashion becomes the privileged lens through which to explore how we inhabit, interpret and understand the modern world’s geography. The Geographies of Fashion opens up a broader unexplored spatial landscape to question and investigate notions of habitation, intimacy, memory and identity. -- Francesca Murialdo, Middlesex University, UK.A much-needed analysis from a highly respected author, which explores the spatial dimension of fashion through carefully chosen case studies and examples. Both clear and insightful, it will be key reading for students interested in fashion, consumption, and cultural geography. -- Joanne Entwistle, Kings College London, UK.A vital intervention in fashion scholarship from a cultural geographer whose writing here - as always - both ranges across and carefully brings together scholarship from different disciplines. -- Pamela Church Gibson, London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London, UK.Combining contemporary theoretical approaches with a cutting-edge analysis of international fashion brands and institutions including Maison Martin Margiela, Zara, Louis Vuitton, ASOS and Savile Row,The Geographies of Fashion is essential reading for students of fashion, geography and related disciplines including sociology, architecture and design. * ADDRESS: Journal for Fashion Criticism *Table of Contents1. Figuring out the Geographies of Fashion 2. Fashioning the Global City: Architecture and the Building of Fashion Space 3. Fast Fashion, Global Spaces and Bio-commodification 4. Slow Fashion and Investment Consumption 5. Luxury Fashion: Flagships, Singularity and the Hidden Art of Value Creation 6. Possessed: Evocative Objects, Materiality and Meaning 7. Soft:Ware:Wear:Where: Convergence, Disintermediation and Virtual Fashion Worlds Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisThe Fundamentals of Digital Fashion Marketing introduces and explores contemporary digital marketing practices within the fashion industry. Clare Harris clearly explains key digital marketing strategies and examines and illustrates their role in fashion through exciting and memorable industry examples. Marketing practices covered include online marketing, social media, video, mobile technologies, in-store technologies, augmented reality and digital spaces.The text features interviews and case studies from some of fashion''s biggest brands and most cutting-edge marketing companies, while also promoting active learning through engaging activities and exercises. This all combines to create a book that will inform, stimulate and inspire the next generation of creative marketers.Trade ReviewThis is a lively and visually stimulating book that covers all the key factors associated with digital fashion business. Overall, the content provides an accessible introduction to the digital fashion marketing subject and individually, the various chapters provide useful starting points for more in-depth research on key topics such as fashion blogging, mobile devices, analytics and fashion video. [This book] definitely fits the needs of our course and also aligns with the overall strategic direction of our department, which is to continue to be at the forefront of all things digital across marketing, communication, media, PR, events and fashion management. As we are not yet using a title that focuses specifically on Digital Fashion Marketing, the project has a real strength and relevance for our teaching. -- Karen Cross, Subject leader for Marketing, Fashion and Retail * Robert Gordon University, Aberdeen, Scotland *I would use this book in two of my courses: Luxury Marketing (at the undergraduate level) and Entrepreneurship in the Business of Art (also undergraduate level). Marketing fashion and digital marketing is an important question and it is particularly so as it relates to luxury fashion brands. In Entrepreneurship this title will be useful because other types of products can be marketed digitally based on the fashion model. In other words, my students don’t necessarily focus on fashion (some of them do) but basically everyone would benefit from an in-depth view of how digital fashion marketing works (and why it is successful). The proposed book offers both a history of the digital space as it relates to the fashion industry AND a guide on how to profitably utilize the digital space (in all its iterations) to advance/promote/and sell fashion merchandize. In fact, this is the book’s strength as well. It is not only history, it is not just theory, it is a combination of history, theory, and practical advice derived from case studies and interviews with fashion professionals. -- Thomai Serdari, New York UniversityAn approachable, at-a-glance look at digital marketing for fashion. At the level it is pitched, it is a good offering... this sort of subject matter is pretty core to all fashion promotion/marketing courses. The author is obviously experienced in this area and seemingly a good person to write the book. -- Jon Cope, Senior Lecturer, University for the Creative Arts/Westminster University, LondonAs a focused fashion text for the digital age, this book is a great addition to the field and covers a variety of topics on the vastness of technology impacting fashion marketing. -- Tasha Lewis, Assistant Professor in Fashion Design Management, Cornell University, USAThis is a great introductory workbook for digital fashion marketing. It is written by a fashion expert in a simple jargon-free way that helps students understand the changing role of digital developments in the fashion system. -- Michelle Tellam Lawrence, Senior Lecturer, Fashion Marketing, Falmouth University, UKAn accessible how-to guide for digital fashion marketers that introduces fashion students to the latest industry practices using contemporary case studies in a key curriculum area. -- Natascha Radclyffe-Thomas, Course Leader BA Fashion Marketing, Fashion Business School, London College of Fashion, UKTable of ContentsIntroduction 1. Fashion Marketing and Digital Technologies 2. Fashion and Online Marketing 3. Social Media and Fashion Marketing 4. Fashion and Film 5. Fashion and Mobile Media 6. Digital Spaces and Innovations Bibliography Further Reading Index Picture Credits Acknowledgements

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Book SynopsisWhether it's a military inspired trench coat or a Savile Row tailored suit, menswear design increasingly demandsoriginality, innovation and above all, choice. Menswear, 2nd edition explores the evolution of menswear styles,from the origins of tailoring right through to modern sportswear showing how historical and social influencescontinue to endure and influence the menswear collections of today.Interviews offer insight from a range of practitioners, including designer Lou Dalton, fashion entrepreneurAlan Maleh and tailor Ray Stowers. There's also practical advice on research for design innovation, street style,trends and forecasting and collection development. With a wealth of stunning new images and contemporaryexamples, new to this edition are end-of-chapter exercises to encourage design work, such as Designfor Sportswear Fabrication and Tailoring for Menswear. Featured topicsHistorical Research for Design InnovationCounterculture DressingDesign ProcessStreet StyleTreTrade ReviewThis is a great book, and it's a real textbook that doesn't have irrelevant chapters on grooming and styling - it's all about garment design and nothing else, which is great! It's a book for someone who really wants to learn about how to design, rather than someone who just likes looking at fashion. * Christopher New, Senior Lecturer in Menswear, Central Saint Martins School of Art and Design, London, UK *This book is unique in its presentation with the brief summary of historical knowledge and the coverage of the historical and social evolution of menswear and how it influenced women’s wear. I can’t think of any other books that compete with this book. In all design courses, I would recommend this book as a reference. * Injoo Kim, University of Cincinnati, USA *A particular strength of this book is the coverage of the sumptuary laws. I love that! This is something that is not widely understood. I also like the coverage of military uniforms and the section on Menswear’s Influence on Women’s Fashion. I think it is a fantastic idea to put a section on undergarments. No one does that. I think this book would be a great book for my class. I would adopt this book and I would make it required. This is a book that covers many aspects of men’s clothing and is a 'go-to' for style questions. * Rhonda Gorman, Texas Women’s University, USA *The new edition would be included in the required reading list for all students on the menswear and design courses. The book may be included in the recommended reading list for media type courses. * John Lau, Programme Director, Fashion Design and Technology, London College of Fashion, School of Design and Technology, UK *This volume would be a good starting point for doing research on menswear, and faculty may find the lists of firms useful in organizing study tours. Libraries supporting any kind of fashion design or clothing construction curriculum should consider purchasing this work. * N.A. Mackey, Missouri State University, Choice, December 2011 *Extremely good resource. Provides a very good insight into menswear. Most students opt for womenswear and this is encouraging an understanding of the wider options in fashion. * Cheryl Smith, Curriculum Leader and Lecturer in Art and Design, Newcastle-Under-Lyme College, UK *Excellent, great layout, informative and inspiring. * Angela Loftus, BA (Hons) Fashion Course Tutor, Bradford College, UK *Table of ContentsIntroduction 1. Menswear Through the Ages Social and Historical Contexts; Sumptuary Laws; Function and Status; Origins of Tailoring; Menswear’s Influence on Womenswear; Counter Culture; Exercise: Historical Research for Design Innovation; Interview: Dashing Tweeds 2. Design Research and Inspiration Details; Vintage; Uniforms; Workwear; Street Style; Trends and Forecasting; London Collection Men; Exercise; Interview: Matthew Zorpas, The Gentleman Blogger 3. Tailoring Traditions Tailoring; The Suit; The Sartoralists; British Tailoring; Italian Tailoring; American Tailoring; Shirts; Neck Ties; Exercise: Tailoring for Menswear; Interview: Stowers Bespoke 4. Sportswear, Knit and Print A Brief History of Sportswear; American Influence; Undergarments; Denim; Knit for Menswear; Print for Menswear Exercise: Design for Sportswear Fabrication; Interview: Alan Maleh, Man of the World Magazine 5. Design Development for Menswear Working with Sketchbooks; Fabric Research; Working with Colour; Trimmings; Toiles/Muslins; Collection Development; First Samples; Exercise: Design to Realisation; Interview: Lou Dalton 6. Menswear Presentations Drawing Men; CAD for Menswear; Menswear Illustration; Presentation Formats; Social Media; Exercise: Menswear Portfolio; Interview: Seung Won Hong Conclusion Bibliography Further resources Index Acknowledgements and picture credits

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Book SynopsisFully revised and updated, this new second edition of Knitwear provides an invaluable introduction to the use of knitwear in fashion design. The book delves into the characteristics and behavior of many varieties of yarn and fiber, from traditional to contemporary, providing easy-to-follow diagrams, practical examples, and rich illustrations throughout.Knitwear provides an insider''s perspective into the knitwear industry and offers vital need-to-know information to readers on various career pathways, while highlighting contemporary machinery and tools available to knitwear designers today, demonstrating how to create knitting patterns, and laying out the basic techniques used on domestic machines. Interviews with international designers, operating at different levels within the industry, provide further insight into the business of knitwear, and how to get a good head-start into the industry. A must-have handbook for the knitwear designer, Knitwear is a beautiful Trade ReviewEach chapter ends with relevant interviews with top knitwear designers and graduates ... throughout it is well illustrated with up-to-date runway designs, graduate collections, designer swatch samples and sketchbook work. If you want to understand the professional approach, are open minded and curious about different aspects of knit and want to explore and understand the process of design to inspire you to create contemporary knitted garments, then this is a comprehensive read. * The Journal for Weavers, Spinners & Dyers *Table of Contents1. Approach to knit Reinventing traditional knitting Yarns and fibres Construction of knit Developments in design and technology Industry interview. Freddie Robins, Senior Tutor, Knitted Textiles, the Royal College of Art 2. Creative development The brief Research Industry interview: Shelley Fox, Director of MFA Fashion Design and Society, The New School Parsons Design development Colour Sculptural form Presentation and evaluation 3. Construction through pattern and texture The tension swatch Basic techniques Lace Surface texture Industry interview. Sophie Steller, Design Director Patterned knits 4. Construction through shape Partial knitting. three-dimensional effects Creating flared shapes Increasing and decreasing Industry interview. Katherine Mavridis: Knitwear Designer Draping and shaping Creating a knitting pattern 5. Details and trims Collars and neckbands Industry interview. Hannah Jenkinson, Knitwear Designer Buttonholes and fastenings Hand-finishing techniques Embellishment 6. Menswear Historical contexts Androgynous contexts Industry interview: Cozette McCreery Designer case study: Pa Byrne Designer case study: Ella Nisbett Designer case study: Ben McKernan Designer case study: Latasha Hammond Designer case study: Matilda Draper Designer case study: Kendall Baker Designer case study: Carlo Volpi

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Book SynopsisPattern cutting, or pattern making, is an essential yet complex skill for every fashion designer to master. Pattern Cutting: The Architecture of Fashion demystifies the pattern cutting process and clearly demonstrates pattern fundamentals, enabling you to construct in both 2D and 3D, and quickly get to grips with basic blocks, shape, sleeves, collars, trousers, pockets and finishes.Pat Parish approaches the subject of pattern cutting through proportion, balance, line and form, identifying key shapes and structures from the catwalk and translating them into 3D through cutting, draping and construction processes. This popular and inspirational sourcebook has been updated to reflect new directions in construction design and techniques, and to include more advanced patterns, such as the Magyar sleeve and the jumpsuit.With handy tips, shortcuts and tricks of the trade, the second edition of Pattern Cutting is a must-have studio resource for all budding fashion designerTrade ReviewI don’t think that there are many books which compete with this one, in terms of content, art work, relevant case studies, and general content. -- Debbie Allsop, Lecturer in Fashion, University of Huddersfield.An excellent introduction, highlighting the approach from a designer’s perspective and encouraging the understanding of aesthetics. The author's ‘language’ and description does clearly demonstrate a ‘real’ practitioner's expertise and understanding of 2D to 3D shape. -- Sally Folkes, Senior Lecturer in Creative Pattern Cutting, Birmingham City University.This book is unique because it has a more “designer” aesthetic and relatability to young designers. Other books that compete are: The Pattern Magic series by Tomoko Nakamichi. It is a great supplemental patternmaking text. Students can relate to it as a designer. The visuals and live model and dress form techniques is a great addition. An overall “designer” feel, and the entire layout including sketches, designers work, etc. make patternmaking seem more exciting and fashion-design related to students (other pattern books are strictly technical). -- Anderson, Texas Tech University, USAn excellent book for someone looking to expand their skills to more on-trend items and expand their understanding of the 2D to 3D concepts. Well thought out and unique approach to patternmaking. Clearly written, excellent graphics, interesting shapes. Love the case studies. The layout seems fresh and innovative, colors are eye catching and consistent. I am impressed with the accuracy of the illustrations – this alone places this book above other patternmaking texts. -- Lynn Boorady, Buffalo State UniversityThis is a fresh, clean textbook that looks “cool” and would appeal to our students. It does a great step by step that the students could continue to refer back to. The graphic quality of the current edition is very good, it is very appealing, and the combination of the illustrations and line drawings make following it very easy and complete. The layout appeals to a contemporary student eye - it looks like a website with small snippets spread through out the page layout. -- Newport, University of Michigan Flint, USThis book is unique because it brings such a simple and basic approach to the examples. It’s easy to follow and doesn’t use unfamiliar terminology or dated terminology in the examples which could confuse students. It shows step by step and easily maps out how calculations and measurements are changed to create any desired look. It also provides multiple examples on how each technique can be utilized to create a different desired look, i.e. adding volume to skirts, tops, and sleeves. This shows students that these techniques aren’t for the sole use of one look, but can be utilized in creative ways to create new and unique designs. This is where the book’s case studies really play into the unique and creative feel of the textbook. A well-balanced textbook with real-world case studies which tie pattern alteration into easy implementation in a classroom setting with a high emphasis on industry standards. It provides the essential classic designs while offering a unique twist and application as the chapters progress. -- Leah Powers, Southeast Missouri State University, US[...] A great book [with] a different approach to pattern cutting. -- Kathryn Sanders * Southampton Solent University, UK *An easy to follow guide on pattern construction for undergraduate students. * Dr Paula Wren, Senior Lecturer, Manchester Fashion Institute, UK *Table of ContentsIntroduction 1. Context 2. Pattern Fundamentals 3. Shape 4. Sleeves, Collars and Circles 5. Trousers 6. Pockets and Finishes 7. Sustainability and Fashion Appendix

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Book SynopsisDesigning a Knitwear Collection, 2nd Edition, is an essential and comprehensive overview of the knitting design and development process. Featuring more than 475 color images, emerging fashion designers will find inspiration from the work of featured knitwear designers and practical information to design their own knitwear collection. The book follows the history of the industry to present day, introducing yarn and stitch basics, knitting methods, and machinery. It explores the process of preparing the design package from initial concept and sketches to specifications of samples and documents for productionthrough the presentation of a final collection. Updates to this edition include advances in technology in the knitwear industry, expanded coverage of sample development, and more than 50% new images including new designer profiles and current knitwear designs. New to this EditionNew Chapter 6, Sample Development, includes step-by-step diagrams and knitwear samples, plus

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Book SynopsisPortfolio Presentation for Fashion Designers, Fourth Edition, is still your best guide to showing your designs, skill sets, and creativity, to get you that job. In new images throughout, the book shows examples of croquis books, spec and flat drawings, and visual research presentations from both fashion professionals and students. From concept through finished product, Portfolio Presentation for Fashion Designers is an indispensable tool to help you prepare your career for the next chapter.New to this edition Helpful Hints at the end of each chapter help you to make critical decisions Expanded Glossary now features knitwear terms Introduces how to develop a successful fashion portfolio Expanded discussion and examples of visual research presentation layoutsTrade ReviewThis is an A to Z book on how to create a portfolio, resume, and help you be ready for the interview. This book can provide you a clear picture of how to create a successful portfolio. To get the most out of this book, be sure to read each chapter. Do not skip chapters or only read parts of the chapters. By the end, you will find a successfully completed project. -- Mary Simpson, Baylor University, USAThe book seems very complete and thorough considering all points of the process. The organization is easy to understand and is accessible. -- Noel Palomo-Lovinski, Kent State University, USAA helpful text for various levels of fashion design students – something they can use throughout their college degree as a regular reference. -- Deborah Christiansen, Indiana University, USATable of ContentsPreface Acknowledgments 1 The Portfolio: A Statement of Style 2 The Design Sketch: A History of Style 3 Defining the Customer 4 Organization and Contents 5 The Design Journal: Exploration and Process 6 Presentation Concepts 7 Flats and Specs 8 Presentations and Beyond 9 Menswear Presentations 10 Children’s Wear Presentations 11 Fashion Accessories Presentations 12 Résumé and Cover Letter 13 Internship or First Job: Building Your Career 14 Transition: Student to Professional Designer Glossary Appendix A Appendix B Index

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Book SynopsisFashion by Design, Second Edition, explains how the elements and principles of design relate to fashion, based on the philosophy of the Bauhaus Experiment of the 1920s and 1930s, which is the foundation for art education in the United States. The book is structured into three parts: the stages of the design process (inspiration, identification, conceptualization, exploration/refinement, definition/modeling, communication, and production); physical elements (such as line, shape, form, space, texture, light, pattern, color, and value); and theoretical principles (like balance, emphasis, rhythm, proportion, and unity) of design. This is reinforced by fashion designer profiles and illustrations covering art, architecture, and fashion. The book aims to improve the designer's eye for creating fashion and related art forms; to identify terminology used in the communication of fashion; and to show how other factors, such as the human form, clothing structure, historic silhouettes, fa

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Book SynopsisApparel Quality: A Guide to Evaluating Sewn Products, Second Edition is a user-friendly guide for evaluating apparel quality to ensure quality products that meet customer expectations. This book provides an overview of apparel production, emphasizing quality characteristics and cues, consumer influences, and motivations impacting purchasing decisions, and highlights the roles of product designers, manufacturers, merchandisers, testing laboratories, and retailers from product inception through the sale of goods. The text is highly illustrated to provide students with the tools needed to evaluate and critique quality elements in apparel and textile products skillfully. New to this Edition:- New fabric technology including e-textiles, sew bots, and automation- International common size equivalents to accompany U.S. size classifications by sex, height, and age- Sustainability considerations for raw materials, design development, and apparel production- Expanded international labelin

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Book SynopsisThe twelfth edition of J.J. Pizzuto's Fabric Science provides the most current and comprehensive overview and introduction to the textile industry--from fibers and finishes to applications in fashion design, fashion business, fashion merchandising, apparel product development, textile production management, and interior design. With an increased emphasis on textile sustainability, this best-selling book continues to meet the needs of both students and professionals in the textile, fashion, and related industries. Based on their combined experience in both education and the industry, the authors provide readers with a comprehensive text about the design, structure, and application of textiles.The range of information is broad and deep, and includes basic fiber chemistry, fiber innovations, the fabrication of fabrics, quality assurance, and laws that regulate textiles; updated topics include bio-based fibers, circularity and sustainability, wearable textiles, and revised an

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Book SynopsisComplete Guide to Size Specification and Technical Design, 4th Edition, equips students with everything they need to know about measuring sample garments, creating fully graded spec sheets for grading patterns, fitting garments, and offering pattern alterations. Over 500 technical flats are clearly labeled with measurement points and instructions for taking measurements. The book includes spec sheets for different types of garments and industry forms within the context of the production process. Several sections are devoted to instruction on measuring the human body, PLM/PDM software, correct fitting issues (with suggestions for pattern alterations), and grade rules for both number and letter sizing. It also includes over 60 basic fashion flats and instructions on metric conversions in the Appendices.New to this Edition Coverage of current topics like diversity and diverse body sizes, industry changes due to the pandemic, and sustainability Inclusion of tech pTable of ContentsPreface PART I-GETTING STARTED 1. Introduction to Size Specification and Technical Design 2. Tools of the Trade 3. Basic Measurement Points PART II-WORKING WITH KNITS 4.Knit Tops 5.Knit Skirts 6.Knit Pants 7.Knit Dresses 8.Knit Jumpsuits and One-Piece Garments PART III-WORKING WITH WOVENS 9. Woven Tops 10. Woven Skirts 11. Woven Pants 12. Woven Dresses 13. Woven Jumpsuits and One-Piece Garments 14. Blazers and Unconstructed Jackets 15. Outerwear/Coats PART IV-FITTING AND GRADING 16. Achieving the Perfect Fit 17. Grading with Tolerances PART V-MENSWEAR AND CHILDRENSWEAR 18. Menswear Garments 19. Childrenswear Appendix A: Basic Garment Croquis Appendix B: Metric to Imperial Conversions Appendix C: TechPacks Glossary Index

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Book SynopsisSustainable Fashion: Take Action, Third Edition presents a fresh exploration of practices that are underway in design and production within the fashion industry and the possibilities for future directions that can be taken now. This book focuses on innovative action needed to achieve the goal of creating healthier environments, reducing climate change, and improving the well-being of all people as they choose and wear clothing. This third edition continues to delve into the role that fashion plays in a sustainable future, through the interconnected model of Connecting with People, Processes, and Environment, which marks the focus of the book's three sections. Covering a wide range of sustainability practices, the chapters are written by both academic and industry professionals, providing a balanced view of the topics with breadth and depth and suggesting routes for further examination.New to this Edition:-Thoroughly revised to cover advancements since the last edition, topics of

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Book SynopsisActivewear, sportswear, athleisure, and loungewear are all gaining popularity in the fashion industry and course curriculum. Aided by emerging trends in fitness and nutrition, as well as the comfort and practicality provided by these clothing types during the lockdown of the Covid-19 pandemic, activewear is squarely in our future. Designing for Activewear covers a variety of garments like swimwear, leggings, joggers, sports bras, crop tops, hoodies, cycling bodywear, and competition sports uniforms. The author provides foundational information, detailed patterns with easy-to-follow instruction, photographs, and video tutorials. Industry case studies will offer opportunities for students to learn emerging issues directly from professionals who work in leading activewear companies. By emphasizing human factors, consideration of performance, and comfort, this book will help students understand how to implement specific design approaches for activewear design and how to further improve the design with their creative solutions for all body types, sizes, and fits. Printable electronic versions of slopers are available with STUDIO access. STUDIO Features Include: -Watch videos that bring chapter concepts to life -Download slopers for easy practice -Study smarter with self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips -Review concepts with flashcards of essential vocabulary Instructor Resources -Instructor''s Guide provides suggestions for planning the course and using the text in the classroom -PowerPoint Slides for each chapter to help incorporate the text into the classroom

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Book SynopsisLearn how to draw fashion images that communicate design ideas and details. With more than 3,000 color illustrations and updated instructions, the book shows you how to draw women, men, and children, pose the figure, develop the fashion head and face, sketch accessories, add garment details, and prepare flats and specs. Learn more advanced techniques for rendering color, fabrics, and embellishments, from houndstooth and velvet to feathers and fringe. Bina Abling''s detailed, easy-to-follow lessons have clear diagrams and runway photographs to help you develop your drawing skills. New to this Edition: -Discusses of sustainability as a mainstay in the fashion industry -Includes practice templates -New videos in STUDIO to support student learning STUDIO Features Include:-Watch videos that bring chapter concepts to life-Study smarter with self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips-Review concepts with flashcards of essenTable of ContentsPreface Tools and Equipment Hints 1. Fashion Figure Proportions 2. Basic Figure Forms 3. Model Drawing 4. Fashion Heads 5. Garments and Garment Details 6. Drawing Flats and Specs 7. Basic Rendering Techniques 8. High-End Rendering Techniques 9. Drawing Knits 10. Design Focus and Layout 11. Drawing Men 12. Drawing Children 13. Accessories Fashion Archive Credits Index

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Book SynopsisLearn technical design processes and industry standards, such as ASTM and ISO, for apparel production and manufacturing practices. With more than 1,200 images and technical packages for 12 apparel products, the book explains topics like fabric selection, finding seasonal fashion trends, garment construction, and fit evaluation, all so you can cost-effectively meet consumer needs. You'll learn about product categories including women''s wear, menswear, and knitwear, as well as how to create a cost sheet and manage product data, to help you develop specification sheets and technical packages for specific markets. The 4th edition has been revised to include the use of sustainable materials, entrepreneurship and the job market, buying seasons as affected by the Covid-19 pandemic and supply chain, sourcing considerations, sizing and fit tips for diverse body types, and more. New to this Edition Includes new information on sustainability and sourc

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Book SynopsisBecoming couture explains how post-war Italian fashion reinvented itself through the persuasive strategies of intermediaries in Italy and the United States, beyond the myth of Giovanni Battista Giorgini and the Sala Bianca. -- .

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Book Synopsis An enchanting memoir by the legendary New York Times fashion photographer Bill Cunningham *A Financial Times Book of the Year 2018**The New York Times Bestseller*‘I took to New York life like a star shooting through the heavens…’ Bill Cunningham’s first love was fashion but the big city came a close second. He left for New York aged nineteen, losing his family’s support but enjoying the infinite luxury of freedom. Living on a scoop of Ovaltine a day, he would run down to Fifth Avenue to feed on the spectacular sights of the window displays – then run back to his tiny studio to work all night.Working as ‘William J’ (to spare his parents’ blushes), Bill became one of the most celebrated hat designers of the 1950s, creating elegant town hats for movie stars and playful beach hats for the summer set. Bill’s mission was to bring happiness by making beautiful things – even if it meant pawning his bike to fund fancy-dress outfits for all his friends. When women stopped wearing hats and his business was forced to close, Bill worked as a fashion journalist, touring the couture houses of Europe. But New York remained his home, and it was as a street photographer of the fashions of the city that he became well known, in a job that would last almost forty years.Fashion Climbing is the enchanting memoir he left behind, capturing the madcap times of his early career and the fashion scene of the mid-century. Written with the spark and wit of Holly Golightly, and brimming over with Bill’s infectious joy for life, it is a gift to all who seek beauty, whatever our style or status.Trade ReviewFashion Climbing has everything you’d want in a fashion memoir (industry politics, elaborate window displays, hijinks at galas), but it’s also a manifesto for living authentically. Just like Bill Cunningham’s photography, this book is anti-snobbery, pro-having-fun-at-all-costs, and awake to the pleasures of being oneself -- Tavi Gevinson, Editor in Chief, RookieThe New York Times’s beloved street-style photographer died two years ago, leaving behind a delightful memoir of his early years, which tells of his escape from restrictive middle-class Boston to a Manhattan career as a milliner. His love of beauty may not have made him rich — he chose an ascetic existence — but it sustained him for a lifetime. -- Horatia Harrod * Financial Times, *Books of the Years* *Peppered with delightful colloquialisms...the text bears the signature voice that endeared him to readers... Yet, despite an ample dose of whimsy, there’s also a backbone to this cosy memoir... Fashion Climbing celebrates one of the industry’s fiercest advocates of sartorial joie de vivre, who established himself on the fashion ladder “not with refined dignity but with an angry howl”. -- Lauren Sarazen * AnOther Magazine *Fashion Climbing is the captivating glimpse through the keyhole of this dizzying, dazzling world, and captures the buzz and bluster of a fashion life lived to the full * Red Magazine *Bill Cunningham’s enchanting memoir of his love affair with fashion and the people who created, shaped, analysed, and wore it in the combustible years after the Second World War is a delight and a revelation, proving that his pen was as astute as his lens. This lively, compelling, and invaluable social history tells us as much about the mores of the age as it does about the era’s seismic fashion revolutions and reflects the wonder that Bill saw in creation throughout his life -- Hamish Bowles, International Editor at Large, Vogue

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Book SynopsisThe Practical Guide to Patternmaking for Fashion Design: Juniors, Misses, and Women offers an in-depth look into the techniques and theories of pattern drafting for womens garments. Covering a wide variety of styles, textiles and sizes, this book is useful for pattern courses ranging from introductory to advanced. It provides a sound introduction to the concepts and processes of patternmaking, as well as a more advanced analysis of style and design. The book offers helpful techniques on taking measurements and adjusting the fits of garments for all body sizes, patterns and types of fabrics.Table of Contents* Introduction to Patternmaking * Taking Measurements, Body Forms, Live Models * The Basic Sloper Set * Draping the Basic Sloper Two-dart Bodice and Two-dart Skirt * Dart Manipulation for Bodices, Sleeves, Skirts and Pants * Collar/Neckline Theory and Development * Sleeve Theory and Development * Dart Equivalents as Stylelines, Gathers, Pleats and Release Tucks * Added Fullness/Flares and Added Ease * The Torso Sloper and Its Uses * The Jacket Sloper and Its Uses * The Coat Sloper and Its Uses * The Dartless Jean Sloper and Its Uses * Special Body Forms, Live Models, Contoured Styles * Patterns for Fabric Used on the Bias Grainline, Draping and Drafting * Patterns for Fabrics that Stretch * Patterns for Fabrics that Shrink * Linings * Knock-off Pattern Techniques * Production Pattern Techniques TEXT FEATURES * Measurement guide for junior's, misses' and women's sizes * Size charts

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Book SynopsisThe Art of Couture Sewing, 2nd Edition is a practical guide to custom techniques in the construction of couture garments. Beginning with a brief history of haute couture, the book moves on to cover tools and supplies, matching fabrics with the appropriate needles and threads, pressing, and construction techniques. Basic draping skills, corset construction, and tailoring, as well as the variety of closures, hems and finishes used in couture are discussed. The text is filled with step-by-step techniques along with clear instructions and illustrations. Nudelman covers many embellishment techniques, including beading, embroidering, and an expanded range of fine and decorative stitches including eyelet overcasting and ribbon rosette. Highly illustrated with photographs of couture designs as well as close-ups of finishes and details, The Art of Couture Sewing, 2nd Edition will inspire the design of high-quality garments using haute couture construction methods. New to this edition ~Expanded coverage of the construction of facings, linings, underlinings, interlinings, and interfacings (Chapter 4) ~All-new chapter on constructing large skirts including trains, hoop skirts, and petticoats (Chapter 6) ~Chapter 8 features new fabric manipulation and embellishment techniques including couching, eyelet stitching, ribbon embroidery, goldwork, beadwork are stitching, motif beaded embroidery methods, and working with sequins, rhinestones, and crystals. ~Updated fashion photographs and new illustrations throughout the book Features ~End-of-chapter biographies discuss notable designers and their couture techniques, such as Paul Poiret, Coco Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, Vera Wang, Alexander McQueen, and Elie Saab ~More than 850 color images, including over 185 updated fashion photographs and new illustrations digitally drawn by the authorTable of ContentsPreface Acknowledgements 1. Introduction to Couture 2. The Art of Textiles 3. Uses of Tools and Supplies 4. The Skill of Hand and Machine Stitching 5. The Skill of Couture Draping 6. The Art of Skirts 7. The Secret of the Corset 8. The Skill of Fabric Manipulation 9. The Skill of Garment Embellishment 10. The Secret of Closures 11. The Skill of Hems and Other Edge Finishes 12. The Skill of Basic Tailoring Glossary Figure Credits Index

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Book SynopsisWinner of the African Photobook of the Year AwardA Choice Outstanding Title of the YearA USA Today "Must-Read for Black History Month"An NPR "Goats and Soda" Editors'' PickA BookRiot Favorite Nonfiction Book of the YearAn unprecedented visual history of African women told in striking and subversive historical photographsfeaturing an Introduction by Edwidge Danticat and a Foreword by Jacqueline Woodson.Most of us grew up with images of African women that were purely anthropologicalbright displays of exotica where the deeper personhood seemed tucked away. Or they were chronicles of war and povertypoverty porn. But now, curator Catherine E. McKinley draws on her extensive collection of historical and contemporary photos to present a visual history spanning a hundred-year arc (18701970) of what is among the earliest photography on the continent. These images tell a different story of African women: how deeply cosmopolitan and modern they are in their style; how they were able to reclaim the tools of the colonial oppression that threatened their selfhood and livelihoods.Featuring works by celebrated African masters, African studios of local legend, and anonymous artists, The African Lookbook captures the dignity, playfulness, austerity, grandeur, and fantasy-making of African women across centuries. McKinley also features photos by Europeansmost starkly, striking nudesrevealing the relationships between white men and the Black female sitters where, at best, a grave power imbalance lies. It's a bittersweet truth that when there is exploitation there can also be profound resistance expressed in unexpected wayseven if it's only in gazing back. These photos tell the story of how the sewing machine and the camera became powerful tools for women's self-expression, revealing a truly glorious display of everyday beauty.

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Book Synopsis

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