Cultural studies: dress and society Books

Book SynopsisA beautifully illustrated pocket-sized book to take with you on your forays into nature. This will be a limited edition, with the second volume of Fletcher's Almanac coming next year.

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Book SynopsisFor over 400 years the tailored suit has dominated wardrobes the world over. Its simple forms, inspired by royal, military, religious and professional clothing, have provided a functional and often elegant uniform for modern life. But whether bespoke or tailor-made, on the street or in the office, during times of celebration or of crisis, we typically take the suit for granted, ignoring its complex construction and many symbolic meanings.The Suit unpicks the story of this most familiar garment, from its emergence in western Europe at the end of the seventeenth century to today. Suit-wearing figures such as the Savile Row gentleman and the Wall Street businessman have long embodied ideas of tradition, masculinity, power and respectability, but the suit has also been used to disrupt concepts of gender and conformity. Adopted and subverted by women, artists, musicians and social revolutionaries through the decades - from dandies and Sapeurs to the Zoot Suit and Le Smoking - the suit is also a device for challenging the status quo. For all those interested in the history of menswear, this beautifully illustrated book offers new perspectives on this most mundane, and poetic, product of modern culture.Trade Review'In its long history the suit has been both a symbol of adherence to mainstream authority as well as a weapon of rebellion. In this book Christopher Breward masterfully traces the suit's influence in modern and contemporary cultures with thorough scholarship and vivid writing. The Suit is a magical tour of the corporeal terrain of the garment that continues to intrigue us as it reflects the ever-changing economic and cultural contexts in which it is found. A triumph of scholarship and a joy to read.' -- G. Bruce Boyer, author of True Style: The History and Principles of Classic Menswear, Rebel Style, and Gary Cooper: Enduring Style 'Spirited and well researched, The Suit: Form, Function and Style is a thoroughly informed examination of the ubiquitous garment that is a staple in every man's life. Combining both substance and style, it provides a journey into the evolution of the suit and its cultural influence through the ages. -- Ed Burstell, Managing Director, Liberty. 'Breward climbs into every armhole and measures every inside leg. He stops at nothing to decode the enigmas of men's tailoring.' --Simon Doonan, Creative Ambassador for Barneys New York and author of The Asylum: True Tales of Madness from a Life in Fashion

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Book SynopsisIncreasing numbers of women are engaging in the development and discussion of modest dressing; a movement matched by a growing media and popular demand for intelligent commentary about the topic. Modest Fashion sets out to meet that need.As a trend, modest dressing is spreading across the world, yet it is rarely viewed as 'fashion'. Studying consumers and producers, retailers and bloggers, Modest Fashion provides an up to the minute account of the art of dressing modestly - and fashionably.Leading scholars in the area, along with journalists, fashion designers, entrepreneurs and bloggers discuss the emergence of a niche market for modest fashion among and between Jewish, Christian and Muslim faith groups as well as secular dressers. Crossing creeds and cultures, analysing commentary alongside commerce, the book probes the personal and the political as well as religious, aesthetic and economic implications of contemporary dress practices and the debates that surround them.Trade Review'This is a wonderful discussion of new configurations of "modest fashions" in the contemporary world, with contributors from academia, business and the media. Focusing on the interrelationships among fashion production and consumption practices of Christian, Jewish and Muslim faith groups, this book is a constant delight.' Ozlem Sandykcy, Bilkent UniversityTable of Contents1 Preface – Linda Woodhead 2 Introduction: Mediating Modesty - Reina Lewis Part One – Faith-based fashion and the commercially fluid boundaries of confession 3 Fashion forward and faith-tastic! Online modest fashion and the development of women as religious interpreters and intermediaries - Reina Lewis 4 ‘Discover the beauty of modesty’: Islamic fashion online – Annelies Moors 5 Meeting through modesty: Jewish-Muslim encounters on the internet – Emma Tarlo 6 Hasidic women’s fashion aesthetic and practice: the long and short of tzniuth – Barbara Goldman Carrel Part Two – Modesty without religion? Secularity, shopping and social status through appearance 7 Modest motivations: religious/secular contestation in the fashion field – Jane Cameron 8 The modesty of clothing and immodesty of religion – Daniel Miller 9 ‘Can we discuss this?’ – Elizabeth Wilson Part Three – Manufacturing and Mediating Modesty: the industry and the press 10 Modesty regulators – punishing and rewarding women’s appearances in mainstream media – Liz Hoggard 11 Insider voices, changing practices: press and industry professionals speak Index

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Book SynopsisMen in khaki and grey squatting in the trenches, women at work, gender bending in goggles and overalls over their trousers, a girl at the Paris theatre in pleated, beaded silk, a bangle on her forearm made from copper fuse wire from the Somme. What people wear matters. Copiously illustrated, this book is the story of what people on both sides wore on the front line and on the home front through the seismic years of World War I. Nina Edwards, reveals fresh aspects of the war through the prism of the smallest details of personal dress, of clothes, hair and accessories, both in uniform and civilian wear. She explores how, during a period of extraordinary upheaval and rapid change, a particular preference for a type of razor blade or perfume, say, or the just-so adjustment to the tilt of a hat, offer insights into the individual experience of men, women and children during the course of World War I.Trade ReviewClothes have a language that illuminates the social and cultural significance of the circumstances in which they are worn. This is particularly true in wartime. Dressed for War is a fascinating and immensely readable account of in what and how both the military and civilians dressed, during the First World War. An apparently trivial subject turns out to have a profundity that adds a rich dimension to our understanding of the Great War in this its centenary year.' Juliet GardinerTable of ContentsIntroduction The Prelude Uniform, Chivalry and Doing One’s Bit Men in Civvies, Women in Uniform Vanity, Luxury and the Fabric of War Attitudes to the Body Variety and Haute Couture Manufacture and the Home Mourning and Wedding 10. O Brave New World Acknowledgments Bibliography Index Websites

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Book SynopsisDiscover the extraordinary stories of the Jewish people who designed, made and sold fashion in twentieth-century London, revealing their vital role in making it an iconic fashion city. While Jewish people have long been associated with making clothes, the full extent of the contributions they made to London’s growing reputation as a global fashion capital and the democratisation of fashion through the development of ready-to-wear clothes in the twentieth century have been widely forgotten. Spanning all sectors of the fashion industry – from homeworking to haute couture – the book draws stories from generations of Jewish Londoners and is richly illustrated with images from across the city and the Museum of London’s collections. Fashion City takes you on a journey across London, from the busy clothing factories of the East End to the swinging boutiques of Carnaby Street and the manicured squares of Mayfair. Along the way it introduces you to the intriguing stories of the key figures behind London fashion, such as Frederick Starke, a boy from the East End whose ability to tell a creative story changed the way the world saw British ready-to-wear fashion; Otto Lucas, a gay Jewish German hat maker who became the most financially successful milliner in the world; Mr Fish, the rule-defying tailor who dressed Mick Jagger and Muhammed Ali; and Netty Spiegel, who escaped the Nazis on the Kindertransport and became a London wedding dress designer of choice under her ‘Neymar’ label. Bringing together a wealth of new research and presenting a novel perspective of London fashion, this book gives a voice to the city’s overlooked and often forgotten Jewish fashion makers.Trade ReviewDrawing on new research, this makes for a fascinating read. * This England *Table of ContentsForeword by David Sassoon - Prelude: Neymar | Netty Spiegel 1. Introductions - Key Figures: J. H. Fisher | Malka and Juda Fiszer 2. Making Clothes in the East End - Key Figures: Koupy | Charles Kuperstein 3. High-street Chains and the Wholesale Revolution - Key Figures: Otto Lucas Ltd | The Milliner Millionaire 4. Couture and Bespoke Dressmaking - Key Figures: Mr Fish | Michael Fish and Friends 5. Menswear Boutiques and Carnaby Street - Key Figures: Moss Bros | Generations of Moss Index Picture credits

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Book Synopsis"Luxury Fashion and Culture" focuses on the study of how humans use high quality, highly pleasurable, and frequently rare products, services, and experiences to distinguish to themselves and others who they are as well as whom they are not - both within and across cultures. Luxury fashion enables the individual to transform herself - to play a part in scenes exuding refinement, acceptance, high status, and good taste and risk ridicule by playing the part badly. The chapters provide new theory, recipes of methods, and findings on how culture helps humans manage and respond to luxury fashion enactments. Rather than focusing on traditional cultural transformations, it focuses on personal expressions of self and archetypal role-playing and fulfilment through the power of luxury fashion. This volume: applies the perspectives of Veblen, Goffman, McCracken, Thompson, and Belk to provide a theoretical foundation to explain why and how humans buy and enact luxury fashion products, services, and experiences; includes confirmatory personal introspections of explanations of luxury fashion enactments with self-photographs and self-interpretations of the enactments to explain how individuals enact luxury fashion and respond to alternative fashion-marketing designs; and is unique in conjoining sociology, psychology, marketing, and economics to advance fashion marketing theory and research.Table of ContentsList of Contributors. Preface. Luxury Fashion Theory, Culture, and Brand Marketing Strategy. Creating and Interpreting Visual Storytelling Art in Extending Thematic Apperception Tests and Jung's Method of Interpreting Dreams. Fashion's Roles in Presentation of Self in Everyday Life. Is Blending into Society a Primary Consumer Goal for Dressing Down?. Cinderella Storytelling in 21st Century: Interpreting Popular Culture in the Movies via Visual Narrative Arts. Who Says what-to-wear? Examining Tensions between Conformity and Individuality. Understanding Archetypes of Luxury Brands by Using VNA. Subject Index. Luxury Fashion and Culture. Advances in culture, tourism and hospitality research. Advances in culture, tourism and hospitality research. Copyright page.

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Book SynopsisA girl from a Yorkshire mining town is barely thirteen when her father kills himself – her brother finds him dying. At sixteen she’s spotted by a rock star and becomes an international Vogue model. Seven years later her brother kills himself in her New York apartment and her mother dies too. With no family left, her life is now one of extreme choices.Fifty years later, Victoria confronts her past and takes her readers on an unflinching voyage through her experiences as a model and beyond. Speaking frankly about loss, love, friendship and ambition, Head Shot is a book of inspiration and purpose.Packed with astonishing images by the photographers Victoria worked with, and the defiant fashions she wore throughout her career, it also bears witness to a time of unparalleled cultural energy and invention; it’s a story in which bags and shoes can, and do, sit right next to life and death.Trade Review'Explosive' Daily Mail'Eye-opening... bears witness to a time of unparalleled cultural energy and invention' Star

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Book SynopsisBring a Parisian je ne sais quoi to your style, wherever you live. Dress Like a Parisian is a wise and witty guide to finding your personal style, taking inspiration from how real Parisian women dress. With personal stylist and fashion blogger Aloïs Guinut as your guide, you can explore which colours, shapes and styles work best for you, whatever the occasion. Aloïs reveals Parisian style secrets, rejects restrictive fashion rules and shares her favourite shops and brands, demonstrating how you can use fashion to enhance your personality rather than shaping your personality to fashion. In the words of the patron saint of Parisian women, Yves St. Laurent, 'fashions fade, style is eternal.'This book is illustrated with photography shot on the streets of Paris plus illustrations by acclaimed fashion illustrator, Judith van den Hoek, who has worked with Elle, Hermes, Vogue, Prada and Grazia.

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Book Synopsis"The sustainable fashion revolution has begun, and we must all be part of it." - Aloïs GuinutStylish women everywhere are realizing the environmental damage of fast fashion and looking for new ways to dress that don't involve cramming their wardrobe with clothes that may never get worn. As Paris-based style-coach Aloïs Guinut explores in this invaluable book, French women have a lot to teach us about how to cherish the planet without sacrificing your style:- Know what works for you.- Buy less and buy better.- Mix vintage items with a few wisely chosen modern pieces.- Optimize your closet.- Look after what you have and make it last.- Seek out quality fabrics that don't poison the environment.

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Book SynopsisCelebrate your uniqueness. Inspiring and captivating, Tattoo Street Style is a tribute to creativity and self-expression, a celebration of body, beauty and style, a manifesto for redefining the rules. Over four hundred original portraits capture extraordinary tattooed people from around the world, in New York, LA, Melbourne, Berlin, Amsterdam, Paris, London and Brighton. A curated and eclectic snapshot of today’s modern tattoo culture.Features profiles and interviews with some of the world’s most creative and exciting artists and studios. Also includes comprehensive infographic-style directories; perfect if you’re looking for inspiration.

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Book SynopsisStyle inspiration for everyone, no matter your size.Be inspired by 100 of the very best plus-size street style images from around the world.Plus-size fashion is daring, experimental and deeply personal. There's no longer any shame in not fitting the traditional ideals of beauty, as proven by Gabi Gregg, Tess Holliday, Beth Ditto and thousands of bloggers and models acround the world.The online plus-size fashion community is loud, international and confident. Millions of #ootd photos are shared everyday, showing off amazing style and beautiful people. Plus+ gathers together the very best, and celebrates all shapes, sizes and aesthetics - a beautiful, sharply designed, glossy collection to inspire everyone, plus-size or otherwise.Trade ReviewFinally, there’s a coffee table book out to celebrate these plus-size fashion gurus and inspire others. * Metro *This is a book that’s body-positive, inclusive and blooming good looking. * Emerald Street *Bethany Rutter’s Plus+ is the fashion bible we all deserve…Body positivity never looked so good. * The Pool *Plus+ has been racking up positive responses for championing plus-size diversity and impeccable style for a wider audience. * Refinery29 *We couldn’t put it down. * Look *

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Book SynopsisWhile traditional studies of dress and jewellery have tended to focus purely on reconstruction or descriptions of style, chronology and typology, the social context of costume is now a major research area in archaeology. This refocusing is largely a result of the close relationship between dress and three currently popular topics: identity, bodies and material culture. Not only does dress constitute an important means by which people integrate and segregate to form group identities, but interactions between objects and bodies, quintessentially illustrated by dress, can also form the basis of much wider symbolic systems. Consequently, archaeological understandings of clothing shed light on some of the fundamental aspects of society, hence our intentionally unconditional title.Dress and Society illustrates the range of current archaeological approaches to dress using a number of case studies drawn from prehistoric to post-medieval Europe. Individually, each chapter makes a strong contribution in its own field whether through the discussion of new evidence or new approaches to classic material. Presenting the eight papers together creates a strong argument for a theoretically informed and integrated approach to dress as a specific category of archaeological evidence, emphasising that the study of dress not only draws openly on other disciplines, but is also a sub-discipline in its own right. However, rather than delimiting dress to a specialist area of research we seek to promote it as fundamental to any holistic archaeological understanding of past societies.Table of Contents1. Introduction: dress and society Toby F. Martin and Rosie Weetch 2. Combination, composition and context: readdressing British Middle Bronze Age ornament hoards (c.1400-1100 cal. BC) Neil Wilkin 3. Personal objects and personal identity in the Iron Age: the case of the earliest brooches Sophie Adams 4. ‘Doing brooches’: theorising brooches of the Roman Northwest (first to third centuries AD) Tatiana Ivleva 5. The Roman military belt – a status symbol and object of fashion Stefanie Hoss 6. Middle Anglo-Saxon dress accessories in life and death: expressions of a worldview Alexandra Knox 7. ‘Best’ gowns, kerchiefs and pantofles: gifts of apparel in the north east of England in the 16th century Eleanor Standley 8. Redressing the balance: dress accessories of the non-elites in Early Modern England Natasha Awais-Dean 9. Cultural presumptions and curatorial context” reassessing the ‘highland brooch’ of early modern Scotland Stuart Campbell

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Book SynopsisEnter the world of huge hair, sparkling make-up, glitter galore, fake eyelashes and...the fine art of the tuck and tape, with these drag queen playing cards. Featuring 14 of the most famous, most beautiful and most outrageous queens from across the carnival court of drag, this deck is sure to liven up your next game of canasta.

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Book SynopsisHave you ever stopped and wondered where your jeans came from? Who made them and where? Ever wondered where they end up after you donate them for recycling? Following a pair of jeans, Clothing Poverty takes the reader on a vivid around-the-world tour to reveal how clothes are manufactured and retailed, bringing to light how fast fashion and recycling are interconnected. Andrew Brooks shows how recycled clothes are traded across continents, uncovers how retailers and international charities are embroiled in commodity chains which perpetuate poverty, and exposes the hidden trade networks which transect the globe. In this new and updated edition, Brooks retraces his steps to look at the fashion industry today, and considers how, if at all, the industry has changed in response to mounting consumer pressure for more ethical clothing. Stitching together rich narratives, from Mozambican markets, Nigerian smugglers and Chinese factories to London’s vintage clothing scene, TOMS shoes and Vivienne Westwood’s ethical fashion lines, Brooks uncovers the many hidden sides of fashion.Trade ReviewAn interesting and important account. * Daily Telegraph *Revealing. * Independent *Brooks packs a great deal of such detail into a fast-paced and readable book. * Morning Star *This engaging and well-written book focuses on some of the least explored outcomes of the fast-fashion system we all live in – that is, what we increasingly and quickly cast off. * Alessandra Mezzadri, SOAS, University of London *Thought-provoking and insightful. A fascinating, must-read text for those interested in the ethics surrounding sustainability in fashion and design. * Alison Gwilt, author of Fashion Design for Living and A Practical Guide to Sustainable Fashion *By bringing global systems of clothing provision into clearer view, the book offers valuable resources for vigorous debate over what an alternative world might look like. * Gillian Hart, University of California, Berkeley *A lively exploration of the hidden world of fast fashion and second-hand clothing that invites us to think of where our clothes come from. * Karen Tranberg Hansen, Northwestern University *A book that sparks with intelligence, mapping a world that connects inequalities, Vivienne Westwood, post-consumption and second-hand garments. * Kate Fletcher, London College of Fashion *Table of ContentsPreface to the second edition Introduction 1. A biography of jeans 2. Clothes and capital 3. The shadow world of used clothing 4. Cotton is the mother of poverty 5. Made in China and Africa 6. Second-hand Africa 7. Persistent poverty 8. Old clothes and new looks 9. Ethical clothing myths and realities 10. Fast-fashion

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Book SynopsisWhite T-shirt, Miniskirt, Hoodie, Jeans, Ballet flat, Breton top, Biker jacket, Little black dress, Stiletto, Trench. What are you wearing? In all likelihood, your outfit will feature at least one of these 10 items. Familiar, commonplace, ubiquitous – each piece has become an emblem of a certain style, carrying its own connotations and historical significance. They aren't just clothes – our social history is contained within these perfect 10 pieces. They're vessels that hold the history of style, politics and identity: while trends may come and go, these are here to stay.The Ten includes deep dive explorations into each item's history, how it gained its reputation, and what it means today, accompanied by stylish photography and illustrations. Stories of iconic adopters and landmarks in the story of each piece reveal how they have achieved their status as so ubiquitous and yet so extraordinary. From the evolution of the white T-shirt from army staple to symbol of achingly cool simplicity, the hoodie's birth in the monasteries of Rome to its domination of streetwear, and the transition of the stiletto from the feet of fifteenth-century Iranian equestrians to those of New York businesswomen, The Ten puts fashion in context. Showing how certain pieces are just as ubiquitous on the catwalk as on the street, Lauren Cochrane's crucial volume defines the fashion items that make up your wardrobe, and how they got there, providing the perfect excuse – a pedigree, a narrative, a realness – for the reader to wear them time and time again.Trade Review'Amazing. What perfect timing for fashion's new wave' -- Barbara Hulanicki, Founder, BIBA'A deeper-than-deep dive into fashion's enduring classics' -- Navaz Batliwalla, DisneyRollerGirl'Lauren Cochrane's The Ten is the definitive one-stop guide to fashion's most essential and iconic styles, with an unrivalled collection of the fashion industry's authoritative voices – from mainstream icons to underground figures – shedding light on the cultural and personal impact of classics that will never date. The perfect gift and resource for anyone with an interest in style' -- Sara McAlpine, Fashion Features Editor, ELLETable of ContentsWhite T-shirt • Miniskirt • Hoodie • Jeans • Ballet flat • Breton top • Biker jacket • Little black dress • Stiletto • Trench.

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Book SynopsisThrust into the global spotlight on her engagement to Prince William, Kate wore a sapphire blue wrap dress by London-based label Issa that promptly sold out. It was the first step in Kate's evolution to become the modern royal style icon she is today – the Duchess of Cambridge. In the decade since, Kate has become the Duchess of Cambridge, a future Queen and a mother of three. Her outfits range from high street to haute couture, with women worldwide fascinated by her style and eager to copy it. The Duchess has used her clothing to make diplomatic gestures, to send messages of solidarity and to show respect. One day, her wardrobe underscores her status as a senior royal; the next it's all about being just like any 30-something Mum. But thanks to an explosion of 24/7 news coverage and social media, her choices are analysed more closely than those of any royal before. In this book, Bethan Holt marks the tenth anniversary of Kate’s royal life by taking readers on a highly illustrated journey through the Duchess’s style evolution.Trade ReviewWill thrill any royal fans - People.com With meticulous research, The Duchess of Cambridge both documents Kate’s style and unearths the behind-the-scenes stories of how it all came together - vanityfair.comFashion and royal lovers are going to love this book and how they can go back in time to see the Duchess’s fashion from her pre-engagement days to now, where her role as a senior member of the Royal Family has put her at the forefront - Royalcentral.co.uk

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Book Synopsis"Skins by Gavin Watson has been argued as being 'the single most important record' of 1970s skinhead culture in Britain, who have possibly been one of the most reviled yet misunderstood of the nation's youth subcultures." — Daily Mail "Gavin Watson documented his friends as they came of age at the heart of a misunderstood community." — i-D "Gavin Watson’s cult documentary photo book Skins chronicles the radical and inclusive spirit which originally animated the emerging skinhead culture of 70s Britain." — Dazed Skins by Gavin Watson is arguably the single most important record of '70s skinhead culture in Britain. Rightly celebrated as a true classic of photobook publishing, the book is now reissued in a high-quality new edition under close supervision from the photographer. The scores of black and white shots offer a fascinating glimpse into a skinhead community that was multi-cultural, tightly knit and, above all else, fiercely proud of its look. These are classic photographs of historical value. “What makes Gavin’s photos so special is that when you look at them, there’s clearly trust from the subject towards the photographer, so it feels like you’re in the photo rather than just observing.” - Shane Meadows (Director of award-winning film This Is England). The book, described by The Times as “a modern classic”, forms an important visual record of its time and has attained cult status in the genre, alongside works by other eminent photographers such as Derek Ridgers and Nick Knight. “Arguably one of the best and most important books about youth fashion and culture ever published.” – Vice Magazine Trade Review"Skins by Gavin Watson has been argued as being 'the single most important record' of 1970s skinhead culture in Britain, who have possibly been one of the most reviled yet misunderstood of the nation's youth subcultures." - Daily MailInterview with Gavin Watson: "This book is a remarkable document of a group of kids...working class boys and girls growing up out in the suburbs—with a style, and a music, and a look, and an anger and a joy to call their own—It's called Skins and it's the photography of Gavin Watson" - BBC Robert Elms Radio Show"Gavin Watson documented his friends as they came of age at the heart of a misunderstood community." - i-D"Gavin Watson’s cult documentary photo book Skins chronicles the radical and inclusive spirit which originally animated the emerging skinhead culture of 70s Britain." - Dazed"Watson's work is especially important for a number of reasons: it is, first of all, one look at the scene from inside, and therefore for sure documentary interest; also, looking at his clicks, you can examine the evolution of interests of the crew, from the punk and skinhead era up to the years of raves. " [Google translate from Italian] - Garageland

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Book SynopsisPierrot, Little Bo Peep, cowboy: these characters and many more form part of this colourful story of dressing up, from the accession of Queen Victoria to the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II. Fancy dress became a regular part of people’s social lives over this period, and the craze for it spread across Britain and the Empire, reaching every level of society. Spectacular and witty costumes appeared at street carnivals, victory celebrations, fire festivals and extravagant balls. From the Victorian middle classes performing ‘living statues’ to squads of Shetland men donning traditional fancy dress and setting fire to a Viking ship at the annual Up Helly Aa celebration, this lavishly illustrated book provides a unique view into the quirky, wonderful world of fancy dress.

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Book SynopsisMerchants of Style explores the accelerating convergence of art and fashion, looking at the interplay of artists and designers - and the role of institutions, both public and commercial - that has brought about this marriage of aesthetic industries. Natasha Degen argues that one figure more than any other anticipated this moment: Andy Warhol. Beginning with an overview of art and fashion's deeply entwined histories before picking up where Warhol left off, Merchants of Style tells the story of art's emboldened forays into commerce and fashion's growing embrace of art. As the two industries draw closer together than ever before, this book addresses urgent questions about what the future holds.Trade Review'Merchants of Style is an astute exploration of the merging of culture and commerce. Natasha Degen brilliantly explains how a new generation of artists and fashion designers have expanded the conceptual parameters of art.' - Jeffrey Deitch, art dealer and curator, director Jeffrey Deitch Gallery; 'Degen's book dives deep into the intertwining of art and fashion; from artist-designed handbags to luxury goods corporations appropriating the symbolic aura of art. A fascinating account of two apparently dissimilar, but in fact highly symbiotic, worlds.' - Georgina Adam, editor-at-large The Art Newspaper and Financial Times contributor, and author of The Rise and Rise of the Private Art Museum; 'Wonderfully researched, written and documented. Highly recommended for anyone interested in a well-researched history of fashion, art, or both.' - Don Thompson, Nabisco Brands Professor of Marketing, Schulich School of Business, York University, Toronto and author of The $12 Million Stuffed Shark, and The Curious Economics of Luxury Fashion.

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Book SynopsisThis book addresses the relationships between fashion, women and power. One of the constants within the book is to question the enduring relationship between women and dress and how these inform and articulate the ways in which women remain represented as either suitable or not for public office and their behaviour is informed through dress when they are in power. The book critiques the interplays between politics, power, class, race and expectation in relation to the everyday practice of getting dress and the more performative and symbolic function of dress as embodiment. As never before, women are in positions of political power, and find themselves facing the maelstroms of mass media regarding their fashion, their deportment, and their right to govern. The contributors offer a wide set of perspectives on women and their roles, and their fashions when taking up powerful positions in Australia, New Zealand, United Kingdom and the United States. From the United Kingdom, the historical issues surrounding the movement towards ‘rational dress’ for women seeking their rights to vote and exercise are interrogated. The volume also explores viewpoints from East Asia, such as the constricting role for ‘common’ women upon entering the Imperial family in Japan. From the United States come the troublesome media stories engulfing two significant American Democratic First Ladies, Hillary Rodham Clinton and Michelle Obama. From New Zealand, the media reports on Prime Minister Jacinda Ardern upon her motherhood while serving in the office and on her clothing during the 2019 Christchurch massacre comprise a much-needed contribution to the literature on women, politics and dress. Further, the role of dress in politics broadly as a form of resistance, will be examined in Australia from recent skirmishes over ‘appropriate dress’ with ex-prime minister Julia Gillard and other Australian female politicians. The role of women and what their fashion selections mean continues via considerable debate during worldwide events. Finally, the theme of resistance and social media continues with an examination of protest dressing in the recent street battles in Hong Kong to how young Asian women have been influenced by the social media campaigns to encourage wearing the veil in Indonesia, to Asian women negotiating femininity in political dress. Primary readership will be among researchers, scholars, educators and students in the fields of fashion, dress studies, women and gender studies and media and history. It will be of particular value as at graduate level and as a supplementary resource. There may be some general appeal to those with an interest in the women or cultures at the centre of the discussions.Trade Review'The anthology grew out of a 2018 seminar on the politics of dress held at the University of Adelaide, South Australia, and almost all of the contributors are Australian. The ‘down under’ perspective, which looks to Asia as well as to the West, is refreshing. [...] This anthology contains many compelling glimpses of the ways the media has treated female politicians and the way individual women have found to negotiate their fashion choices. [...] A valuable work. Theoretical perspectives are offered, the case studies are informative and several of the essays offer frameworks for looking at fashion in political context. While readers will have to do their own synthesis, the composite look at the impact of the media is both important and instructive. Similarly, the composite bibliography – found in the introduction and the separate essays – is extensive and will prove helpful to future scholars.' -- Beverly Gordon, Fashion, Style & Popular CultureTable of ContentsOverview Denise N. Rall Section I: Theoretical Approaches to Women in Leadership and Political Fashion Denise N. Rall with Jo Turney Case Studies I: Gender, Politics & Identity: Lessons from Past and Present Chapter 1. Rational Dress ‘As an Expression of the Fin-de-Siecle Aspiration Towards Equality of the Sexes’ Madeleine Seys Chapter 2. Jacinda Ardern, New Zealand Premier: Fashion and performing gender Sarah Baker Chapter 3. An Empress’s Wardrobe Unlock’d: Empress Masako and Japan’s Princess Fashions Emerald L. King and Megan Rose Case Studies II. Making Politics through Fashion Chapter 4. Women Politicians, Fashion, and the Media in Australia from Enid Lyons to Julia Gillard Amanda Laugesen Chapter 5. Dressing up two Democratic First Ladies: Hillary Clinton and Michelle Obama Denise N. Rall, Jo Coghlan, Lisa J. Hackett and Annita Boyd Chapter 6. Codes of Power: Transforming the Dress and Appearance of female Asian politicians Jennifer Craik and Anne Peirson-Smith Case Studies III. Women and Power: Social Media, Politics and Resistance Chapter 7. Leopard in Kitten Heels: The politics of Theresa May’s sartorial choices Rachel Evans Chapter 8. Felix Siauw: Storyteller, Preacher and Profiteer: Fashioning a New Brand of Islam in Indonesia Rheinhard Sirait Chapter 9. All Dressed in Black: decoding the gendered liminal appearance of protest in Hong Kong Anne Peirson-Smith and Jennifer Craik

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Book SynopsisThis new edited collection assembles academic essays and intellectual activism equally next to visual essays and artistic interventions and proposes a different concept for fashion research that eschews the traditional logic of academic fashion studies. It features acclaimed designers, artists, curators and theorists whose work investigates the multi-faceted debates on the rise of practice-based research in fashion. The book sets out to explore current issues in fashion research with a particular focus on both methodology and expansion of the field to encompass overlooked voices and narratives. It has a particular concern with the relationships between theory and practice and with how knowledge is created and disseminated in fashion studies. It is an excellent and really valuable contribution to the field at a point both when fashion studies is expanding and when the fashion industry is at a crucial point of change. Some of the contributions were originally presented at a symposium hosted by the Austrian Center for Fashion Research ‘TALKSHOW: The politics of practice-based fashion research’ at Vienna’s Museum of Applied Arts, curated by Wally Salner. The symposium brought together a group of fashion scholars, designers, educators and practitioners to explore critical contemporary fashion (research) practices, and to investigate critical fashion knowledge between theory and practice, beyond assumed disciplinary and epistemological boundaries. Many contributions in this volume were initially presented at that symposium, while others are testimonies of international debates that were part of the research activities of the Austrian Center for Fashion Research, a research project funded by the Austrian Federal Ministry of Science Research and Economy, led by Elke Gaugele. The book is structured into three sections: Fashion Knowledge, Practice-Based Fashion Research, and Sites of Fashion and Politics. Contributions look at new forms of fashion knowledge that are forming with and along shifting fashion practices, practice-based fashion research, and sheds light on different sites and entanglements of fashion and politics in distinctive contemporary and historical moments of de/colonization, anti/racism, and anti/globalization. Elke Gaugele is cultural anthropologist and professor of fashion, styles and contextual design at the Academy of Fine Arts in Vienna, Austria. Monica Titton is a sociologist, fashion theorist and senior scientist at the fashion design department of the University of Applied Arts Vienna, Austria. Other contributions are from Elke Bippus, Astrid Engl, Jojo Gronostay, Ruby Hoette, Bianca Koczan, Priska Morger, NCCFN, Wally Salner, Andreas Spiegl, José Teunissen, Lara Torres, Carol Tulloch and Maria Ziegelböck Readers will be academics, practitioners, designers, artists, curators, museums, theoretical scholars, lecturers, practice-based researchers, students and practitioners at all levels in the fields of fashion, textile, art and design. This new book with its original focus on practice-based research will be useful for a general and academic readership alike, and to all those working within the field of fashion studies, including those with a theoretical focus, fashion practitioners and those working within innovative pockets of the fashion industry. Trade Review'Fashion Knowledge offers a variety of thought-provoking methods and practices for critical interrogations. Two of the high points of the volume address decolonization: the first thinking through historical research and the second with a distinctly contemporary bend. [...] Gaugele, Titton and their contributors demonstrate that research methods are helpful to challenge existing ways of knowing and can be used to questioning historic structures and developing more equitable practices. [...] This is a thoughtful collection and critical intervention into research methods that is much needed. Gaugele and Titton should be lauded for pulling together these diverse voices, perspectives and efforts at decolonizing and democratizing fashion research. This volume is a welcomed step forward in the growing area of fashion studies and certainly has the potential to shift contemporary critical practices.' -- Myles Ethan Lascity, Fashion, Style & Popular CultureTable of ContentsIntroduction: The Politics of Fashion Knowledge between Practice and Theory 1 Elke Gaugele and Monica Titton PART I: FASHION KNOWLEDGE 13 1. The Transformative Power of Practice-Based Fashion Research 15 José Teunissen 2. Theory as Practice: Notes on the Sociology of a Practice-Based Fashion Theory 27 Monica Titton 3. Ornamental Politics and Assembled Textures of Artistic Research: The Project kotomisi: un-inform by knowbotiq 36 Elke Bippus 4. Fashion Ontology: Researching the Possibilities for Knowing through an Expanded Fashion Practice 53 Lara Torres 5. DISCOURSE, Cruise 2020 70 Maria Ziegelböck PART II: REFLECTIONS ON FASHION AS PRACTICE 79 6. Notes on Fashion Practice as Research: Episodes of Conversation Pieces 81 Ruby Hoette 7. Work with the Existing: Be Realistic 91 NCCFN 8. The Empress’s New Clothes, or How One Makes Fashion (or Doesn’t) 96 Wally Salner (translated by Travis Lehtonen) 9. Skin Host and Heavenly Visitor 106 Priska Morger (Prof. PriskAMORger) PART III: SITES OF FASHION AND POLITICS 111 10. T-shirt Matters 113 Carol Tulloch 11. DEAD WHITE MEN’S CLOTHES 136 Jojo Gronostay with an introduction by Elke Gaugele 12. Fashion Politics: Dressing Segregation and Distinction 143 Andreas Spiegl 13. Early- Modern Fashion Knowledge and the Western Politics of Science 150 Elke Gaugele Notes on Contributors 163

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Book SynopsisThe first of its kind – original, unique and beautifully illustrated by the author. Engagingly written, it will appeal to fans and academics alike. A lavishly illustrated study of the heavy metal battle jacket in a historical and cultural context, with a unique approach to analysis and interrogation of form and style through painting practice and theory. Since the 1970s, customized denim 'battle jackets' have been worn by heavy metal fans to signify their devotion to the music and subcultures of metal. Embellished by the wearers with patches, badges and studs, these jackets are works of art that communicate the values of metal to the world at large. This book features a series of detailed paintings that visually document examples of jackets alongside photographic portraits of the fans that wear them. The accompanying chapters describe the significance of battle jackets in metal scenes and trace a lineage of customized clothing starting in the Middle Ages. Connections are made with a wide range of historic and contemporary artworks, suggesting a broad context within which to more fully appreciate the significance of the jackets. The methodology spans a range of disciplines from art theory to ethnography and subcultural studies, and the discussion is informed by responses from a series of interviews conducted over the years with metal fans. The book has a highly original focus and the author’s approach to the subject is unique. It reaches across a range of fields: the history and cultural context of heavy metal music, style and dress; art history and practice, particularly painting; subcultural studies; fashion and dress; music graphics, branding and marketing. Tom Cardwell is an artist and researcher specialising in contemporary painting, customized clothing and heavy metal subcultures. He is senior lecturer in painting at Camberwell, University of the Arts London. It will appeal to readers with an interest in metal subcultures; fashion, style and dress; music branding and identity; contemporary art theory and practice. The writing style and content is relaxed, engaging and will be of interest to a wider casual readership with an interest in popular culture and the arts. A useful resource for academics and students interested in heavy metal, customized clothing/DIY subcultures, painting and visual arts. Could appeal to undergraduate as well as postgraduates and scholars in these fields, and a broader interest in visual culture.Table of ContentsList of Illustrations vii Acknowledgements xiii Foreword xv Mark Titchner Introduction 1 1. The Importance of Battle Jackets within Metal Subcultures 15 Watercolour Paintings and Jacket Works 2. Global Battle Jacket Cultures 49 3. ‘Somewhere Back in Time’, or a Speculative History of the Battle Jacket 59 4. Examining Patches: A Heritage of Images 89 Oil Paintings and Fan Portraits 5. Setting Trends or Selling Out? Battle Jacket Appropriation in Wider Culture 105 Conclusion: ‘See My Vest!’ 125 Appendix: Notes on the Paintings 133 Endnotes 151 References 153 Index 171

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Book SynopsisFashion Education explores how the classroom can transform the fashion industry towards body inclusion and social justice. The book is a collection of 17 essays by fashion educators from Australia, Canada, the US and the UK who recount their experiences, struggles and strategies of reimagining the exclusive foundation of fashion pedagogy and redesigning fashion curricula to centre Indigenous, Black, brown, fat, disabled, trans and queer worldviews, histories and bodies. This is the first book to explore the relationships between fashion pedagogy and social justice, and to map out new pedagogical frameworks and tools to redistribute power through fashion education. It shares the teaching practices of fashion educators implementing radical pedagogies and offers practical case studies that engage with a number of intersectional positions. Fashion Education engages with current pressing concerns for educators and is a valuable teaching resource for fashion educators – both theory and practice – working in art and design schools in Europe, the US and the UK. With chapters covering fashion theory, history, business, communication and design curricula to centre Indigenous, Black, brown, fat, disabled, trans, queer worldviews, histories and peoples it will appeal directly to the many disciplines within fashion. The discussions are also relevant to educators in other art, design and creative fields also looking to centre inclusion in their courses and the strategies presented will apply to them. Contributions from Tanveer Ahmed, Kevin Almond, Avalon Acaso, Ben Barry, Mal Burkinshaw, Johnathan Clancy, Robin J. Chantree, Deborah A. Christel, Brittany Dickinson, Greg Climer, Bianca Garcia, Denise Nicole Green, Alicia Johnson, Lucy Jones, Grace Jun, Carmen Keist, Riley Kucheran, Michael Mamp, Krys Osei, Lauren Downing Peters, Alexis Quinney, Kelly L. Reddy-Best, Austin Reeves, Joshua Simon, Colleen Schindler-Lynch, Brandon Spencer and Sang ThaiTrade Review'If you have been searching for a toolkit to dismantle systems of oppression in fashion education, then look no further, you are holding the definitive guide in your hands. Read, plan, then transform.' -- Vicki Karaminas, co-author of Queer Style and Libertine Fashion, Sexual Freedom, Rebellion and Style.We don’t talk or write enough about the progressive potential of pedagogies and curricula in fashion studies. Based upon a firm foundation in social justice, Fashion Education: The Systemic Revolution corrects this problem with remarkable clarity through self-reflexive case studies. The editors’ and authors’ courageous chapters reveal the complex interplay between sartorial and academic biographies, modeling new pathways for transformation. Fashion Education gives me hope for the future! -- Susan KaiserTable of ContentsAcknowledgements Radical Fashion Educators Unite: An Introduction – Barry Ben and Deborah A. Christel 1. Blackness in Fashion Education – Krys Osei 2. Indigenizing Fashion Education: Strong Hearts to the Front of the Classroom – Riley Kucheran 3. Queering the Fashion Classroom: Intersectional Student Perspectives – Alicia Johnson, Michael Mamp, Alexis Quinney, Austin Reeves and Joshua Simon 4. Theorizing Fat Oppression: Towards a Pedagogy of Empathy, Inclusion and Intentional Action – Lauren Downing Peters 5. Reflections of a Fat Fashion Faculty Member – Carmen N. Keist 6. Pattern-Cutting without Cultural Appropriation – Kevin Almond and Greg Climer 7. Diversity in Fashion Illustration: An Oxymoron, Don’t You Think? – Colleen Schindler-Lynch 8. Fashion Pedagogy and Disability: Co-Designing Wearables with Disabled People – Grace Jun 9. Decolonizing the Mannequin – Tanveer Ahmed 10. A Starting Point for Fat Fashion Education – Deborah A. Christel 11. Black Lives Matter: Fashion Liberation and the Fight for Freedom – Brandon Spencer and Kelly Reddy-Best 12. Designing for Drag – Sang Thai 13. Curating Empowerment: Negotiating Challenges in Pedagogy, Feminism and Activism in Fashion Exhibitions – Jenny Leigh Du Puis, Rachel Getman, Denise Nicole Green, Chris Hesselbein, Victoria Pietsch and Lynda Xepoleas 14. Beauty to Be Recognized: Making the Fashion Show Accessible – Ben Barry, Avalon Acaso, Robin Chantree, Johnathan Clancy, Bianca Garcia and Anna Pollice 15. A Diversity Network: Industry and Community Collaboration for Inclusive Fashion Design Education – Mal Burkinshaw 16. Redesigning Dignity: A Collaborative Approach to the Universal Hospital Gown – Brittany Dickinson and Lucy Jones 17. Fashion Exorcism: A Journey in Community-Centred Design – JOFF Notes on Contributors Index

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Book SynopsisThis new edited collection assembles academic essays and intellectual activism equally next to visual essays and artistic interventions and proposes a different concept for fashion research that eschews the traditional logic of academic fashion studies. It features acclaimed designers, artists, curators and theorists whose work investigates the multi-faceted debates on the rise of practice-based research in fashion. The book sets out to explore current issues in fashion research with a particular focus on both methodology and expansion of the field to encompass overlooked voices and narratives. It has a particular concern with the relationships between theory and practice and with how knowledge is created and disseminated in fashion studies. It is an excellent and really valuable contribution to the field at a point both when fashion studies is expanding and when the fashion industry is at a crucial point of change. Some of the contributions were originally presented at a symposium hosted by the Austrian Center for Fashion Research ‘TALKSHOW: The politics of practice-based fashion research’ at Vienna’s Museum of Applied Arts, curated by Wally Salner. The symposium brought together a group of fashion scholars, designers, educators and practitioners to explore critical contemporary fashion (research) practices, and to investigate critical fashion knowledge between theory and practice, beyond assumed disciplinary and epistemological boundaries. Many contributions in this volume were initially presented at that symposium, while others are testimonies of international debates that were part of the research activities of the Austrian Center for Fashion Research, a research project funded by the Austrian Federal Ministry of Science Research and Economy, led by Elke Gaugele. The book is structured into three sections: Fashion Knowledge, Practice-Based Fashion Research, and Sites of Fashion and Politics. Contributions look at new forms of fashion knowledge that are forming with and along shifting fashion practices, practice-based fashion research, and sheds light on different sites and entanglements of fashion and politics in distinctive contemporary and historical moments of de/colonization, anti/racism, and anti/globalization. Elke Gaugele is cultural anthropologist and professor of fashion, styles and contextual design at the Academy of Fine Arts in Vienna, Austria. Monica Titton is a sociologist, fashion theorist and senior scientist at the fashion design department of the University of Applied Arts Vienna, Austria. Other contributions are from Elke Bippus, Astrid Engl, Jojo Gronostay, Ruby Hoette, Bianca Koczan, Priska Morger, NCCFN, Wally Salner, Andreas Spiegl, José Teunissen, Lara Torres, Carol Tulloch and Maria Ziegelböck Readers will be academics, practitioners, designers, artists, curators, museums, theoretical scholars, lecturers, practice-based researchers, students and practitioners at all levels in the fields of fashion, textile, art and design. This new book with its original focus on practice-based research will be useful for a general and academic readership alike, and to all those working within the field of fashion studies, including those with a theoretical focus, fashion practitioners and those working within innovative pockets of the fashion industry. Trade Review'Fashion Knowledge offers a variety of thought-provoking methods and practices for critical interrogations. Two of the high points of the volume address decolonization: the first thinking through historical research and the second with a distinctly contemporary bend. [...] Gaugele, Titton and their contributors demonstrate that research methods are helpful to challenge existing ways of knowing and can be used to questioning historic structures and developing more equitable practices. [...] This is a thoughtful collection and critical intervention into research methods that is much needed. Gaugele and Titton should be lauded for pulling together these diverse voices, perspectives and efforts at decolonizing and democratizing fashion research. This volume is a welcomed step forward in the growing area of fashion studies and certainly has the potential to shift contemporary critical practices.' -- Myles Ethan Lascity, Fashion, Style & Popular CultureTable of ContentsIntroduction: The Politics of Fashion Knowledge between Practice and Theory 1 Elke Gaugele and Monica Titton PART I: FASHION KNOWLEDGE 13 1. The Transformative Power of Practice-Based Fashion Research 15 José Teunissen 2. Theory as Practice: Notes on the Sociology of a Practice-Based Fashion Theory 27 Monica Titton 3. Ornamental Politics and Assembled Textures of Artistic Research: The Project kotomisi: un-inform by knowbotiq 36 Elke Bippus 4. Fashion Ontology: Researching the Possibilities for Knowing through an Expanded Fashion Practice 53 Lara Torres 5. DISCOURSE, Cruise 2020 70 Maria Ziegelböck PART II: REFLECTIONS ON FASHION AS PRACTICE 79 6. Notes on Fashion Practice as Research: Episodes of Conversation Pieces 81 Ruby Hoette 7. Work with the Existing: Be Realistic 91 NCCFN 8. The Empress’s New Clothes, or How One Makes Fashion (or Doesn’t) 96 Wally Salner (translated by Travis Lehtonen) 9. Skin Host and Heavenly Visitor 106 Priska Morger (Prof. PriskAMORger) PART III: SITES OF FASHION AND POLITICS 111 10. T-shirt Matters 113 Carol Tulloch 11. DEAD WHITE MEN’S CLOTHES 136 Jojo Gronostay with an introduction by Elke Gaugele 12. Fashion Politics: Dressing Segregation and Distinction 143 Andreas Spiegl 13. Early- Modern Fashion Knowledge and the Western Politics of Science 150 Elke Gaugele Notes on Contributors 163

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Book Synopsis'A gripping blockbuster... Thomas researches meticulously and writes with simmering even-handed anger' TELEGRAPH. Fashionopolis is the definitive book on the cost of fast fashion, and a blueprint for how we get to a more sustainable future. Fashion has blighted our planet. Today, one out of six people on earth work in fashion, churning out 100 billion garments a year. Yet 98 percent of them do not earn a living wage, and 2.1 billion tonnes of clothing is thrown away annually. The clothing industry's exploitation of fellow humans and the environment has reached epic levels. What should we do? Bestselling author and veteran journalist Dana Thomas has travelled the globe to find the answers. In Fashionopolis, she details the damage wrought by fashion's behemoths, and celebrates the visionaries – including activists, artisans, designers, and tech entrepreneurs – fighting for change. We all have been casual about our clothes. It's time to get dressed with intention. Fashionopolis is the first comprehensive look at how to start. Reviews: 'Fascinating... Powerful... Thomas has succeeded in calling attention to the major problems of the fashion industry' New York Times 'Thomas takes a story most of us think we know, but tells it better and in compelling, readable detail' The Times 'Engaging and thorough... Fashionopolis has implications beyond cloth and thread' Financial Times 'Thomas is a conscientious reporter – as evidenced in her research, which is studded with statistics' Times Literary SupplementTrade ReviewThomas convincingly lays out multiple arguments against fast fashion... Thoroughly reported and persuasively written, Thomas's clarion call for more responsible practices in fashion will speak to both industry professionals and socially conscious consumers' * Publishers Weekly *Thomas, a Paris-based fashion journalist, takes a story most of us think we know, but tells it better and in compelling, readable detail... Thomas's focus on the big picture doesn't get in the way of her love of a quirky detail... Thomas's long view is thought-provoking... [Fashionopolis] also engagingly elucidates how we may change things' * The Times *A pleasurable read on the innovators trying to make clothes with less cruelty and harm... Engaging and thorough... Thomas's emphasis on upstart innovators and entrepreneurs is part of what makes the book such a pleasure to read' * Financial Times *Thomas offers a bracing, urgently important look at the ills fast fashion has wrought... This eye-opening book is a must-read not only for fashion junkies but for everyone who buys and wears clothes, enlightening us as to the garment industry's dark past, its embattled present, and – if we make the thoughtful choices Thomas presents – its bright future' -- Caroline Weber, author of Proust's DuchessAn eye-opening account of the true cost of "fast fashion"... Thomas circles the globe to profile innovators who are working to make the garment trade more sustainable and offers a vision of better, rather than, faster fashion... I, for one, will never open my closet and look at my choices in quite the same way again' -- Julia Flynn Siler, author of The White Devil's DaughtersThomas offers informed, fair-minded, passionate, and cautiously optimistic scrutiny of "fast fashion"... A distressing yet intriguing story... Engrossing... Convincing, responsible, and motivational fashion industry reportage' * Kirkus Reviews *Fast fashion and its long-term consequences are such crucial subjects that it's hard to believe that no one thought to write this book until now. And how lucky we are that it's Dana Thomas who finally did, bringing her encyclopedic knowledge and expertly trained eye to bear on the excesses of a system by which companies exploit people and the planet to produce clothes that we barely wear. Investigating the factory floor to runway in search of a better way forward, Thomas makes an unshakeable argument for a different way of getting dressed -- Lauren Collins, When In FrenchA great resource for learning about the effects of fast fashion' * Reader's Digest *Fashionopolis is blunt: We're all going to drown in a landfill piled high with cheap clothes if we don't stop shopping like maniacs. Thomas's thoughtful reporting explains how w -- Robin Givhan, author of The Battle of Versailles.Thomas's is one of those books you can't stop reading bits out from to whoever is around, and which winds up changing your entire perspective * Sydney Morning Herald. *A must-read for anyone in the industry * Boutique Magazine *Exposes fashion's toxic relationship with the environment in its pursuit of 'unbridled capitalism'. If anything can persuade you to change your habits, this will * Country & Town House *Thomas is a conscientious reporter – as evidenced in her research, which is studded with statistics... Fortunately, Thomas provides glimpses of change in the industry' * Times Literary Supplement *[A] well-researched and fascinating book... Her gift for scene-setting and her sharp assessments of many of the trendsetting entrepreneurs behind the scenes across the globe keeps Fashionopolis engaging throughout' * Irish Times *A raw and shocking account of the price of fast fashion, Fashionopolis is a magnificent resource for both the consumer and the industry * Sublime *Thomas details the damage wrought by fashion's behemoths, and celebrates the visionaries including activists, artisans and designers fighting for change * Irish Independent *A well-researched read about fast fashion and why we all need to change our habits * Wallpaper *A compelling and devastating argument for why we should all be making more thoughtful choices * Independent *

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Book SynopsisThe ebook edition of this title is Open Access and freely available to read online. In an era of hyper visuality, service-based labour markets, consumer culture, and times of uncertainty, physical appearance plays an increasingly important role in producing and reinforcing social inequalities. Taking a sociological approach, the authors of Appearance as Capital examine physical appearance as a normatively regulated form of capital and explore how it is possible to accumulate and convert capital based on physical appearance. The chapters examine how norms of accumulating and converting aesthetic capital intertwine with gender, age and other forms of capital and play a role in shaping inequalities. Demonstrating how different cultural, institutional, group-specific and situational norms regulate the possibilities of accumulating and converting aesthetic capital, the authors take a critical stance towards an economics-inspired analysis of physical appearance as universally defined ‘beauty’ or ‘attractiveness’ that has standard value for all individuals. By presenting empirical work based in the context of Finnish society, often considered an egalitarian Nordic welfare state, this book provides a fresh perspective on appearance-based inequalities.Table of ContentsPART I. ACCUMULATING A GENDERED FORM OF CAPITAL Chapter 1. Physical Appearance as a Form of Capital: Key Problems and Tensions; Iida Kukkonen Chapter 2. Who Performs Appearance Work, and Who Believes Appearance Works? Gendered Appearance Beliefs and Practices in Finland; Iida Kukkonen Chapter 3. The Metrosexual Who Never Visited Finland – The Eternal Gender Gap in Appearance-Related Consumption; Outi Sarpila Chapter 4. Seeking Age-Appropriate Appearance Among Ageing Men; Hanna Ojala and Ilkka Pietilä PART II. CONTESTED CONVERSIONS – EVERYDAY (RE)WORKINGS OF AESTHETIC CAPITAL Chapter 5. Too Smart-Looking for a Waiter? – Scripting Appearance Norms at the Theatre of Working-Life; Tero Pajunen Chapter 6. Generating Aesthetic Capital: Prospects from Autobiographical Narratives; Tero Pajunen Chapter 7. The Ouroboros of Seeking Validation? Exploring the Interconnection of Appearance (dis)Satisfaction and Content Creation on Social Media; Erica Åberg and Aki Koivula Chapter 8. Sofie’s World: Resistance Toward the Thin Ideal in Sofie Hagen’s Fat Activist Online Content; Anna Puhakka Chapter 9. Well-Beshaved Women Rarely Make History – Exploring the Contestation of the Hairless Beauty Ideal with Case #januhairy; Erica Åberg and Laura Salonen

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Book SynopsisDressing up. Partying all night. This is the world of 1970s fashion, and this book is your backstage pass.Featuring over 25 exclusive interviews with the movers and shakers of the 70s scene, including Grace Coddington, Zandra Rhodes, Willy van Rooy, Marie Helvin, Pat Cleveland, Elsa Peretti and more, Behind the Gloss lifts the lid on the hedonistic, wild world of the 1970s.They were the designers who dressed the Rolling Stones, Charlotte Rampling and Catherine Deneuve; the photographers who shot Diana Ross, Lauren Hutton and Jerry Hall; the fashion editors, hairstylists and make-up artists who worked with some of the most beautiful women in the world; and they would change the fashion world forever.Featuring images, sketches and Polaroids exclusively sourced from the contributors' archives, Behind the Gloss tells the revelatory story of the decade of experimentation.Table of ContentsMarie Helvin • Caroline Baker • Harry King • Sandy Linter • Sundays in Rome (Hazel Collins) • Grace Coddington • Corey Grant Tippin • Zandra Rhodes • Willy van Rooy • Lunch with Yves (Marie Helvin) • Rick Gillett • Chris Royer • Virginia Bates • Clive Arrowsmith • Naked with Gia (Sandy Linter) • Pat Cleveland • Elsa Peretti • Willie Christie • Barbara Hulanicki • The Battle of Versailles (Chris Royer and Pat Cleveland) • Barbara Daly • Beverly Johnson • Thea Porter • The Biba Shop Girl (Kim Willott) • Cheryl Tiegs • Magazine Wars (Lizzette Kattan)

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Book SynopsisAuthor Angelos Bollas sheds light on the complex interplay between gender norms, media influence, and the construction of modern masculinity through his nuanced analysis of Timothée Chalamet and Paul Mescal, whose unique approach to self-presentation challenges traditional notions of masculinity.

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Book SynopsisWINNER OF THE BIOGRAPHERS' CLUB SLIGHTLY FOXED BEST FIRST BIOGRAPHY PRIZE'Full of love, wisdom and yearning' Kit de WaalA coming-of-age story set in Birmingham in the 1980s and 1990s, The Go-Between opens a window into a closed migrant community living in a red-light district on the wrong side of the tracks.The adult world is seen through Osman's eyes as a child: his own devout migrant Muslim patriarchal community, with its divide between the world of men and women, living cheek-by-jowl with parallel migrant communities. Alternative masculinities compete with strict gender roles, and female erasure and honour-based violence are committed, even as empowering female friendships prevail. The stories Osman tells, some fantastical and humorous, others melancholy and even harrowing, take us from the Birmingham of Osman's childhood to the banks of the river Kabul and the river Indus, and, eventually, to the London of his teenage years.Osman weaves in and out of these worlds, struggling with the dual burdens of racism and community expectations, as he is forced to realise it is no longer possible to exist in the spaces in between.Trade ReviewA beautifully observed and funny book * * Guardian * *I don't think I properly understood the true nature of multiculturalism before reading Osman Yousefzada's The Go-Between. Only really good writing can bring alive the truth, the colour, the reality and the meaning of an experience like Osman's. And he really is a good writer . . . I read with such pleasure, terror, amusement, admiration and fascination - it is surely one of the great childhood memoirs of our times -- STEPHEN FRYA poetic and moving book. Osman paints pictures with words, unfolding hidden stories that stay with you beyond the final page -- HANIF KUREISHIThat rare thing, a memoir that reads like a novel; a page-turner full of love, wisdom and yearning that examines what it means for the outsider to belong and the winding route that takes us there. I loved it -- KIT DE WAALOsman's compelling and humane memoir shines light into a hidden world I didn't realise existed down the road from me. It's an essential book that will help you understand multiculturalism in all its complexities -- SATHNAM SANGHERAYousefzada's funny and fascinating story of moving between two cultures . . . this memoir is a welcome exploration of time and place * * Stylist * *Moving and vivid . . . distinctive and memorable . . . by turns harrowing and humorous. [Yousefzada] is adept at portraying life through the eyes of a child as well as infusing passages with reflective wisdom and perspective. In evocative prose that skilfully charts both outer landscapes and inner emotional worlds, The Go-Between captures how it feels to be an outsider, and the yearning to belong * * i * *A remarkable insight into multicultural Britain and the pain inherent in following your own path * * Observer * *A fascinating memoir, quite chilling in parts, and uplifting in others -- NIHAL ARTHANAYAKEEloquently honest and eye-openingly frank * * The Times * *

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Book Synopsis'Whatever the style, shoes have a message to be heard, and nowhere is it clearer than in this collection of some of the best fashion images of their age.' - Alexandra ShulmanThe third book in the popular Vogue portfolio series, now available at the more pocket-friendly price of £30.In Vogue: The Shoe, Harriet Quick has curated more than 300 fabulous images from a century of British Vogue, featuring remarkable styles that range from the humble clog to exquisite hand-embroidered haute couture stilettoes via fetishistic cuissardes and outrageous statement heels. Contains some of the best fashion photography available, including shots from Vogue's peerless archive of fashion images by the likes of Hoyningen-Huene, Irving Penn, Corinne Day, Norman Parkinson, Arthur Elgort and Nick Knight. Reissued with a luxurious real cloth cover, this is essential reading for fashionistas everywhere.Includes a foreword written by Alexandra Shulman, former editor-in-chief of British Vogue.Trade ReviewWhatever the style, shoes have a message to be heard, and nowhere is it clearer than in this collection of some of the best fashion images of their age. * Alexandra Shulman *Take it from Cinderella: fairy tales are all about shoes in the end. Vogue, the source of many a fashion fairy tale, unites 100 years' worth of exquisite footwear in a new book, Vogue: The Shoe, featuring more than 300 images by Irving Penn, Nick Knight, Corinne Day and many others. Because beautiful shoes are every outfit's happy ending. * The Telegraph *

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Book SynopsisA good handbag makes the outfit. Only the rich can afford cheap shoes. The only thing worse than being skint is looking as if you're skint.'For centuries, an interest in clothes has been dismissed as the trivial pursuit of vain empty-headed women. Yet, clothes matter, whether you are interested in fashion or not because what we choose to dress ourselves in defines our identity. For the immigrant arriving in a new country to the teenager who needs to be part of the fashion pack or the woman turning forty who must reassess her wardrobe, the truth is that how we look and what we wear, tells a story. And what a story. THE THOUGHTFUL DRESSER tells us how a woman's hat saved her life in Nazi Germany, looks at the role of department stores in giving women a public place outside the home, savours the sheer joy of finding the right dress. Here is the thinking woman's guide to our relationship with what we wear: why we want to look our best and why it matters. THE THOUGHTFUL DRESSER celebrates the pleasure of adornment

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Book SynopsisThis book addresses the evidence for the widespread belief that enjoyment of fashion is necessarily inconsistent with feminist values, from a feminist (as opposed to a post-feminist) point of view. It begins by establishing that many feminists in fact hold this belief and argues that disagreeing does not mean claiming that feminism was unnecessary or that it is now rendered redundant by changing social mores. The author describes the historical background as applied to both men's and women's clothing in various cultures, including close reading of the function of clothes in the novels of the Bronte sisters, Thackeray and Dickens, through to the use of fashion as a call to arms for the early feminists, as well as later theorists like Susan Sontag and Naomi Wolf. Issues of personal freedom and political correctness, the claims that fashion makes women sex objects for men, and the charge that the subject is too trivial to merit serious discussion, are all challenged. Allegations of links between fashion and pornography are explored, and the disagreements between feminists on this topic set out. Finally, the issue of dressing for special occasions and whether this practice has a place in the modern world is addressed with candour. Is Fashion a Woman's Right? re-establishes the relationship between fashion and feminist values.

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Book SynopsisThis book explores the ways in which dress has been influential in the political agendas and self-representations of politicians in a variety of regimes from democratic to authoritarian. Arguing that dress is part of 'hard core' politics, it shows how dress has been crucial to the constructions of nationhood and national identities in both Asia and the Americas. Since dress has been a marker of identity and status, chapters engage with the gendering of the politics of dress, discussing how women have become bearers and wearers of 'national tradition' and how men and women's dress reflect their political positions in the nation-state. It examines the magical power of cloth, the meanings of batik and design, the holy status of uncut cloth versus cut cloth, and the quaint combination of non-Western with Western attire. This collection of pioneering essays fills a vacuum in the largely Eurocentric field of dress studies, demanding that attention be paid to Asia and the Americas as major sites of vestimentary creativity.Trade Review"A truly fascinating and original collection of essays. By discussing the reciprocal relationship between dress and political identity and action, the authors in this book provide a fresh and very insightful entry into analyses of the every-changing relation between power and gender. The instances which are described are taken from all around the Pacific rim, thus providing important elements for comparison, both within the wider region itself and through the rest of the world. Those of us who work on other parts of the world can only be jealous." -- Robert Ross, Professor of African History, Leiden UniversityTable of ContentsTransnational Flows & the Politics of Dress in Asia & the Americas; Gender, Nation & the Politics of Dress in Twentieth-Century Philippines; Dressing for Power: Scholars' Robes, School Uniforms & Military Attire in China; Refashioning Civilisation: Dress & Bodily Practice in Thai Nation-Building; Gender, Citizenship & Dress in Modernising Japan; Identity, Nation & Islam: A Dialogue about Men's & Women's Dress in Indonesia; "Dressed in a Little Brief Authority": Clothing the Body Politic in Burma; Power Dressing on the Prairies: The Grammar of Blackfoot Leadership Dress, 1750-1930; Nationalism & National Dress in Spanish America; Refashioning the Inca: Costume, Political Power & Identity in Late Bourbon Peru; Wigs, Weapons, Tattoos & Shoes: Getting Dressed in Colonial Amazonia & Brazil; Fabricating Specimen Citizens: Nation Building in Nineteenth-Century Mexico; Urban Expressions of Solidarity: Fashioning Citizenship in Argentina; Index.

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Book SynopsisIf fashion is an expression of individuality, why do we all dress alike? Can modernity be described as the experience of 'feeling modern' and, if so, what part does fashion play? Answering these intriguing questions and many more, this pioneering book shows how the concepts of fashion and modernity are intimately linked. It argues that capitalism and identity construction as social processes both have symbiotic relationships with the fashion system. Technology, the body, nationality and gender are informed and shaped by modernity, and vice versa. Drawing on key modernist texts as well as fashion theory and practice, this book seeks broadly to cover the history of fashion and modernity, a topic that has been surprisingly overlooked. Tackling themes including court masques in seventeenth-century London, Paris couturiers and forensic laboratories in twentieth-century Washington, the authors show how fashion throughout history has been a cornerstone in the construction of a modern self.Trade Review'Fashion and Modernity offers both the conceptual framework and the kind of 'thick' historical and contemporary analyses required to move forward a number of debates in fashion studies. The contributions to this remarkable volume generate a lively, interdisciplinary exchange of perspectives, individually and collectively putting to rest any semblance of a notion of modern, western fashion history as a seamless, linear narrative.' Susan Kaiser, Professor and Chair of the Division of Textiles and Clothing, University of California at Davis.Table of ContentsAcknowledgements Notes on Contributors Illustrations Introduction Christopher Breward and Caroline Evans Fashion and Modernity Elizabeth Wilson Part 1. Producing Identities 1.James Morrison (1789-1857), 'Napoleon of Shopkeepers', Millionaire Haberdasher, Modern Entrepreneur Caroline Dakers Response John Styles 2.Lee Miller and the Limits of Post-war British Modernity: Femininity, Fashion, the Problem of Biography Becky Conekin Response Carol Tulloch 3.People dress so badly nowadays: fashion and late modernity Andrew Hill Response Adam Briggs Part 2.Performing Bodies 4.Court Masques: Tableaux of Modernity in the Early 17th Century Andrea Stuart Response Susan North 5.Ambiguous Role Models : Fashion, Modernity and the Victorian Actress Christopher Breward Response Lynda Nead 6.Multiple, Movement, Model, Mode: The Mannequin Parade 1900-1929 Caroline Evans Response Andrew Bolton Part 3.Processes of Modernity 7.The Fingerprint of the Second Skin Kitty Hauser Response Esther Leslie 8.Cuttings and Pastings Alistair O'Neill Response Barry Curtis 9.entropy (fashion) and emergence (fashioning) Jamie Brassett Response Ben Highmore

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Book SynopsisAlthough it is appealing to think that fashion has taken a sharp turn away from conventions established in the industry over the past century and more, is this really the case? Or are 'pioneering' designs simply part of a cyclical revival of forgotten fashions? Looking at some of the most influential designers of the twentieth century, Vinken considers the politics and philosophies that have been the driving forces directing their sense of style.Vinken describes 'Fashion Zeitgeist' as a trend characterized by representations of traces of the past. She considers the key concepts behind designers such as Yamamoto, Gaultier, and Lagerfeld. The originality of Yamamoto's multi-layered look stems from his philosophy that it is the individual sum of experience that is important, not the collective consequences of history. Martin Margiela, although he himself refuses to be photographed or appear in the public eye, brings new individuality into fashion. Chanel, under the direction of Karl Lagerfeld, is viewed as the only fashion house to have remained fresh after 100 years, yet is this success essentially proof of the self-referential qualities fashion has adopted? What inspired the fetish for labels at the end of the twentieth century? Answering these questions and many more, this concise and thought-provoking book shows how beauty, gender, sexuality, commerce and dandyism have persisted in defining the fashion system.Trade Review'The intellectual reach of Fashion Zeitgeist is thrilling. Unconstrained by the empiricist concerns of much Anglo-American scholarship on dress, Vinken presents a challenging new poetics of clothing which will inform subsequent readings of style in significant ways. Its translation into English should be applauded.'Christopher Breward, Victoria Albert Museum'Barbara Vinken brilliantly combines elegance and erudition to produce a subtle and thought-provoking analysis of contemporary dress and its interaction with the past. This is essential reading not only for students of dress history, but also for all fashionistas and anyone interested in the abiding fascination that fashion exerts.'Elizabeth Wilson, author of 'Adorned in Dreams'Barbara Vinken is a sophisticated hostess to the 21st century world of what she calls post-fashion, a dream world whose carnivalesque rhetorics of irony, quotation, of clothes turned upside down and inside out, evokes the utopia of an everyday HaTable of ContentsPart I: Postfashion * What Fashion Strictly Divided * Adorned in Zeitgeist * High and Low: the End of a Century of Fashion Part II: Eight Types of Fashion * Lagerfeld for Chanel: The Griffe * Montana, Mugler: Myth * Dolce and Gabbana: Deep South * Commes des Garcons: Ex Oriente Lux * Yohji Yamamoto: The Secret Sewn in * Gaultier: Revaluation of All Values * Helmut Lang: Fabric, Skin and Figure * Martin Margiela: Signs of the Time

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Book SynopsisFashion is everywhere. It is one of the main ways in which we present ourselves to others, signaling what we want to communicate about our sexuality, wealth, professionalism, subcultural and political allegiances, social status, even our mood. It is also a global industry with huge economic, political and cultural impact on the lives of all of us who make, sell, wear or even just watch fashion.Fashion: the key concepts presents a clear introduction to the complex world of fashion. The aim throughout is to present a comprehensive but also accessible and provocative analysis. Readers will discover how the fashion industry is structured and how it thinks, the links between catwalk, celebrity branding, media promotion and mainstream retail, how clothes mean different things in different parts of the world, and how popular culture influences fashion and how fashion shapes global culture.Illustrated with a wealth of photographs, the text is further enlivened with over 30 detailed and rich case studies - ranging across topics as diverse as the meaning of black in fashion, the rise of celebrity branding, the cult of thinness, the politics of veiling, the eroticism of shoes and the power of cosmetics. Features: Boxed chapter overviews open each chapter Bullet points summarizing key ideas conclude each chapter Chapter discussions are illustrated with integrated case material Each chapter is supported by extended Case Studies Key words are highlighted in chapters and defined in an extensive Glossary Further Reading guides the reader to other literature A timeline of Fashion Milestones provides a chronology of major events in the history of fashionTrade Review'Craik's refreshing approach and lucid analysis of the complexities of dress and fashion theory provides essential reading. The author tackles many of those all too familiar dilemmas and questions about fashion's cultural significance with bravado. A panoramic and ambitious study of dress, in all its wider meanings and manifestations.'Claire Wilcox, Senior Curator, Department of Furniture, Textiles & Fashion, V&ATable of ContentsContents Introduction: Why Study Fashion? 1. The Fashion Impulse 2. The Eurocentric Fashion System 3. Fashion Cycles, Symbols and Flows 4. Fashion, Body Techniques and Identity 5. Fashion, Aesthetics and Art 6. Fashion as a Business and Cultural Industry 7. Popular Culture and Fashion 8. The Politics of Fashion Questions for Essays and Class Discussion Annotated Guide for Further Reading Glossary Fashion Milestones Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisFashion is bound up with promoting the 'new', concerned with constantly changing aesthetics. The favoured styles or looks of a season arise out of the work of a vast range of different actors who collectively produce, select, distribute and promote the new ideals, before moving on to next season. How, then, are fashionable commodities stabilized long enough for them to be selected, distributed and sold? Since there are few studies that actually examine the work that goes on inside the world of fashion, we know little about these processes. This book addresses this gap in our knowledge by examining how aesthetic products are defined, distributed and valued. It focuses attention on the work of some of the market agents, particularly model agents or 'bookers' and fashion buyers, shaping the aesthetics inside their markets. In analysing their work, Entwistle develops a theoretical framework for understanding the distinctive features of aesthetic marketplaces and the aesthetic calculations within them.Trade Review'This is a major book and a highly significant contribution to our understanding of how specific features of the fashion economy operate. Drawing on fascinating field work in a well-known department store and also in fashion model agencies, Entwistle uses the new sociology of markets and of actor networks to analyse the calculative practices which underpin the production of fashion worlds and their objects. This book has great originality and depth, and will be used across a range of academic disciplines.'Angela McRobbie, Goldsmiths, University of LondonTable of Contents1. Introduction Part One: Understanding aesthetic markets 2. An aesthetic marketplace: assembling 'economy' and 'culture' 3. The aesthetic economy: the production of value in the field of fashion modelling Part Two: Fashion buying: a case study 4. A brief introduction to the fieldwork 5. Understanding high fashion clothing: retailing and buying in the UK 6. The materialities of fashion and fashion knowledge 7. Tacit aesthetic knowledge: the fashion sense and sensibility of fashion buyers 8. Examining the interfaces: fashion buying encounters and the relationships between products, buyers, suppliers and customers

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Book SynopsisFrom booties and scarves to art and fashion, The Culture of Knitting addresses knitting as art, craft, design, fashion and performance, and as an aspect of the everyday. Drawing on a variety of sources, including interviews with knitters from different disciplines as well as amateurs, the text breaks down hierarchical boundaries and stereotypical assumptions that have previously negated the academic study of knitting. The book also highlights the diversity and complexity of knitting in all its guises. The Culture of Knitting investigates not merely why knitting is so popular now but also the reasons why knitting has such longevity. By assessing the literature of knitting, manuals, patterns, social and regional histories, alongside testimonial discussions with artists, designers, craftspeople and amateurs, the book offers new ways of seeing and new methods of critiquing knitting - without the constraints of disciplinary boundaries - in the hope of creating an environment in which knitting can be valued, recognized and discussed.Trade ReviewI gladly recommend this book not only to scholars working in visual and textile arts but also to those with interests in broad interdisciplinary treatments of culture. Turney covers a lot of ground, and the book offers copious photos as exemplars as well as thorough and thought-provoking analyses. THE Fascinating material! TLS A suberb example of contemporary cultural analysis ... Clear, comprehensive, imaginative, innovative, theoretically challenged and grounded. Whether you are interested in fashion, textiles, design, material culture, cultural analysis or Sociology, Turney's Culture of Knitting is a work that you owe it to yourself to read. Textile: The Journal of Cloth and Culture A must-read for erudite knitting addicts. Yarn Market News A thoughtful and insightful study on knitting in all its forms and socio-cultural impacts. Worn ThroughTable of ContentsIntroduction Chapter One: Knitting: a gendered pursuit? Chapter Two: Knitting the Past:: Revivalism, Romanticism and Ruralism in Contemporary Knitting Chapter Three: Twisted Yarns: Post-modern Knitting Chapter Four: Unravelling the Surface - Unhomely Knitting Chapter Five: In the Loop? Knitting Narratives, Biographies and Identities Chapter Six: Knit Power - The Politics of Knitting Conclusion: The World is Full of Ugly Jumpers Bibliography

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Book SynopsisThe story of tweed is tied to a series of social, economic and cultural shifts that have molded its development. This book considers the historical factors that helped to shape the design characteristics and social meanings of the group of fabrics that we call tweed, from their emergence in the 1820s to the present day. Including significant new research on tweeds, from Harris Tweed to the type used by Chanel, this book follows the history of these fabrics from the raw fiber to the finished garment in men’s and women’s fashion. Exploring rural and urban contexts, this book reveals the important physical and conceptual relationships of tweed with landscape. Anderson shows that, contrary to their strong popular associations with tradition, tweeds emerged in the Romantic era as a response to the dramatic changes associated with industrialization and urbanization. Progressive changes in gender relations are also explored as a major factor in tweed's evolution, from associations with particular ideals of masculinity into what is now a truly adaptable fashion textile worn by both sexes. This is the first book of its kind to recognize the importance of tweed to fashion innovation today.Trade ReviewFor textile history enthusiasts, or weavers of tweed yardage pondering the background to the iconic cloth ... this book will be if great interest ... By the final chapters you will have gained a fascinating insight into this industry. * The Journal for Weavers, Spinners & Dyers *Anderson’s excellent book Tweed offers a detailed examination of the history of tweed as both fabric and garment. In so doing she unpacks some of the wideranging social and cultural themes that are hinted at in the exchange between Lord Peter Wimsey and his manservant Bunter ... an excellent overview of a complex subject, demonstrating the value of placing one fabric at the centre of a rich multi-disciplinary enquiry. * Journal of Design History *This book provides a model of how to write a biography of a fabric, which through developing so many unexpected links and thought-provoking digressions leaves the reader with an entirely new perspective on the subject. * Costume *Tweed delivers coherent and precise conclusions that are testament to the thorough research that it contains ... an excellent and much–needed introduction to the topic that lays a strong foundation for other channels of research and interrogation of this fascinating textile. * Journal of Dress History *The scope and quality of the research within Tweed is excellent. The author provides a nuanced account of this universally recognized but often misunderstood and under-researched textile, and firmly situates it within the context of broader economic, social and cultural histories. -- Mairi MacKenzie, Research Fellow, Fashion and Textiles, School of Design, The Glasgow School of Art, UKExpansive and detailed, Fiona Anderson's Tweed offers a rigorous history of this important textile. Drawing on new research, it challenges the myths and sets its subject within its technical, cultural, and aesthetic contexts, pulling together questions of production, consumption and reception in a complex and satisfying weave of ideas. -- Professor Christopher Breward, Principal of Edinburgh College of Art, UK.From its beginnings in coarse woolen shepherd's checks to its global success in luxury markets, Fiona Anderson digs deep into the life of tweed – its history, myths, meanings, design, technical characteristics, and consumption. The study considers tweed from a broad perspective of innovation and fashion change, aided largely by a material culture approach. The relationship of tweed to class, gender, national identities and traditions, is part of the story. Readers will want to know more about these timeless fabrics that have romantic (and other) meanings long before they are fashioned into clothes. -- Patricia A. Cunningham, The Ohio State University, USAReaders interested in the history of textiles will be intrigued to learn about the relationship of tweed to the artistic Romantic movement—which butted against industrialism and urbanism—and how this rural fabric became associated with idealized imperialism, travel, and foreign exoticism. -- B. B. Chico * Regis University *Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Acknowledgements 1. Introduction 2. Tweed: Terms, Descriptions and Characteristics 3. Origins and Early Development of Tweed to 1850 4. Tweed, Male Fashion and Modern Masculinities 1851-1918 5. Tweed, Femininity and Fashion 1851-1918 6. Suits You: Men and Tweed 1919-1952 7. Sportswear Chic: Tweed in Womenswear 1919 to 1952 8. Couture to Pop and Nostalgic Fashion: 1953 to 1980 9. Tradition and Innovation: 1981 to 2014 Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisEach morning we establish an image and an identity for ourselves through the simple act of getting dressed. Why Women Wear What They Wear presents an intimate ethnography of clothing choice. The book uses real women's lives and clothing decisions - observed and discussed at the moment of getting dressed - to illustrate theories of clothing, the body and identity. Woodward pieces together what women actually think about clothing, dress and the body in a world where popular media and culture presents an increasingly extreme and distorted view of femininity and the ideal body. Immediately accessible to all those who have stood in front of a mirror and wondered 'does this make me look fat?', 'is this skirt really me?' or 'does this jacket match?', Why Women Wear What They Wear provides students of anthropology and fashion with a fresh perspective on the social issues and constraints we are all consciously or unconsciously negotiating when we get dressed.Trade Review'Woodward writes in a marvellously clear and lively style, melding ethnographicanalysis nicely with an accomplished rendition of appropriate theory from herrelated fields. This book is ideal for undergraduate as well as graduate students, andwill be of value for researchers concerned with the body, fashion design, and retail. The book wears its learning lightly, provides fascinating case studies, and is a total delight to read.'Current SociologyTable of ContentsIntroduction Chapter 1: Understanding Women and their Wardrobes. Chapter 2: Hanging Out in the Home and the Bedroom. Chapter 3: But What Were You Wearing? Clothes and Memories. Chapter 4: Looking Good, Feeling Right: The Aesthetics of Getting Dressed. Chapter 5: Looking in the Mirror: Seeing and Being Seen. Chapter 6: Mothers, Daughters, Friends: Dressing in Relationships. Chapter 7: Fashion: Making and Breaking the Rules. Chapter 8: Dressing up and Dressing Down: Can you Wear Jeans? Conclusion.

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Book SynopsisClothes take the ordinary human body and fashion it into something remarkable. Born to the same anatomical legacy, each generation has used garments to shape itself in the image of its own particular desires. Taking different body parts in turn, The Anatomy of Fashion invites us to view ourselves as we have been in the past. Arguing that analysis needs to aspire to the proliferation and playfulness of fashion itself, the chapters both explore a different aesthetic and examine its wider, and often surprising, implications. In countless different ways, fashion is caught up in the larger picture of its chronological moment. Whether in the mechanisms of production, the politics of consumption, the construction of sexuality or gender, or the formation and reformation of manners and morals, fashion is there. In its provocative conclusion The Anatomy of Fashion turns its attention to dress practices today. Reassembling the anatomical parts, the text places the contemporary body in the historical view and reveals the strangeness that lies at the heart of our own normality.Trade ReviewIt is always a delight to discover a non-fiction writer who can write about history with both intelligence and levity. Although this book is well suited as a textbook, it is an engaging and thoughtful read for even seasoned fashion veterans. Ingrid Mida, Fashion is my MuseTable of ContentsAbbreviations Prologue: Approaching the past 1. Head and neck 2. Breasts and waist 3. Hips and bottom 4. Genitals and legs 5. Skin Epilogue: Fashioning the body today

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Book SynopsisThe Men's Fashion Reader brings together key writings in the history, culture and identity of men's fashion. The readings provide a balanced range of important methodological approaches, primary research and significant case studies. The book is organized into thematic sections covering topics such as history, theory, subculture, iconic items of clothing, consumption and the media. Each section is introduced and concludes with an annotated guide to further reading. With exciting illustrations of men's dress from a range of historical periods, and including readings from key scholars and new writers across a wide range of fields, The Men's Fashion Reader is the essential introduction to the subject. Introduction: The Field of Men's Fashion Part 1. A History of Men's Fashion Part 2. Masculinity and Sexuality Part 3. Icons: The Evolution of Men's Wear Part 4. Subculture Part 5. Consuming and Creating Style ConclusionTrade ReviewMen's interest in fashion and the role of fashion in constructing masculine identity have so far not been investigated in depth. The Men's Fashion Reader is an important work exploring all aspects of men and fashion - from design to production, communication and consumption. At last an ideal resource is available to scholars, students and professionals. -- Simona Segre Reinach, Iuav University, Venice Invaluable contributions to the field of fashion, dress and textile studies Social Anthropology/Anthropolgie Sociale This rich anthology leaves one asking 'How did we manage without?'. ... The Men's Fashion Reader provides a critical resource for fashion and cultural studies. Magazine for the University of Technology, Sydney Examining the history, culture and identity of men's fashion, The Men's Fashion Reader is an in-depth work exploring masculinity, the evolution of menswear, the rise of subculture and the era of consumption. An essential introduction for any man looking to explore the business and theory behind men's fashion. The Montebury MagazineTable of ContentsIntroduction: The Field of Men's Fashion Part 1: A History of Men's Fashion Section Introduction 1. From Black in Spain to Black in Shakespeare, John Harvey 2. The Three Piece Suit, David Kuchta 3. Macaroni Masculinities, Peter McNeil 4. Thomas Carlyle and 'Sartor Restartus', Michael Carter 5. Dandyism, Visual Games and the Strategies of Representation, Olga Vainshtein 6. A Tale of Three Louis: Ambiguity, Masculinity and the Bowtie, Rob Shields 7. Uniforms and the Creation of Ideal Masculinity, Elizabeth Hackspiel-Mikosch 8. Better and Brighter Clothes: The Men's Dress Reform Party, Barbara Burman Annotated Guide to Further Reading Part 2: Masculinity and Sexuality Section Introduction 9. California Casual: Lifestyle Marketing and Men's Leisure Wear, 1930-1960, William R. Scott 10. 'His Clothes': Fashionable Gay Masculinity and the Shopping Experience, London, 1950s-1970s, Clare Lomas 11. Uber Men: Fashionable Heroics and Masculine Style, Vicki Karaminas 12. The Italian Job: Football, Fashion and That Sarong, Stella Bruzzi 13. From Catwalk to Catalogue: Male Models, Masculinity and Identity, Joanne Entwistle 14. The Transvestite Continuum: Liberace-Valentino-Elvis, Marjorie Garber 15. Dragging It Up and Down: The Glamorised Male Body, Mark Simpson 16. Class, Race and Masculinity: The Superfly, The McDaddy and The Rapper, Del LaGrace Volcano and Judith Halberstam Annotated Guide to Further Reading Part 3: Icons: The Evolution of Men's Wear Section Introduction 17. The Genesis of the Suit, Anne Hollander 18. The Reinvention of Tailoring, Michael Zakim 19. The Japanese Suit and Modernity, Toby Slade 20. Clothes and the Modern Man in 1930s Oxford, Laura Ugolini 21. A Note: A Charismatic Art: The Balance of Ingratiation and Outrage in Contemporary Fashion, Richard Martin 22. Modern Masculinity and the Rise of School Uniforms, Jennifer Craik 23. Texas Livestock Auctions: A Folklife Ethnography, George A. Boeck, Jr 24. American Denim: Blue Jeans and Their Multiple Layers of Meaning, Beverley Gordon Annotated Guide to Further Reading Part 4: Subculture Section Introduction 25. The Zoot Suit: Its History and Influence, Holly Alford 26. Back to Africa: Reggae and Rastafarianism, Dick Hebdige 27. Cultural Responses to the Teds, Tony Jefferson 28. Rock, Fashion and Performativity, Noel McLaughlin 29. The Warhol Look, Mark Francis and Margery King 30. 'Macho Man': Clones and the Development of the Masculine Stereotype, Shaun Cole Annotated Guide to Further Reading Part 5: Consuming and Creating Style Section Introduction 31. Fashion and the Man: From Suburb to City Street. The Spaces of Masculine Consumption 1870-1914, Christopher Breward 32. Fashioning the Playboy: Messages of Style and Masculinity in the Pages of Playboy Magazine, 1953-1963, Becky Conekin 33. 'It was Style with a Capital 'S": Versions of Being Male Presented at the Beautillion Ball, Annette Lynch 34. New Men and New Markets, Frank Mort 35. Consuming Masculinities: Style, Content and Men's Magazines, Tim Edwards Annotated Guide to Further Reading Conclusion

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Book SynopsisHair: Styling, Culture and Fashion explores the social importance of hair, wherever it grows, explaining the cultural significance of hair and hairiness, and presenting a new critical engagement with hair and its stories, histories, performances and rituals. From heads, legs and underarms, to wigs and beards, and everything in between, the presentation, manipulation and daily experience of human hair plays a central and dynamic role within fashion, self-expression and the creation of social identity. The book's diverse range of cross-cultural essays encompasses the study of hair in fashion, film, art, history, literature, performance and consumer culture. Offering an accessible mix of visual analysis, cultural commentary and critical theory, Hair: Styling, Culture and Fashion will appeal to all those interested in the presentation and analysis of cultural identity and the body.Trade ReviewThis work provides an intriguing, interdisciplinary, multifaceted kaleidoscope focused on the universality of hair and its relationship to culture. These studies cover a wide spectrum, such as Hundu ritual tonsuring, African combing, salon styling, Islamic shaving, and aristocratic wigging. Overall, they provide a new lens for understanding the human condition and identity, both the exotic and personal. B. B. Chico, CHOICE MagazineTable of ContentsAcknowledgments Foreword, Caroline Cox Author's Biographies 1. Introduction: Thinking About Hair, Geraldine Biddle-Perry And Sarah Cheang Part One: Histories of Hair On the Head, Face and Body 2. Fashionable Hair In The Eighteenth Century: Theatricality and Display, Louisa Cross, 3. Roots: Hair and Race, Sarah Cheang 4. Revealing and Concealing: Notes and Observations on Eroticism and Female Pubic Hair, Jack Sargeant 5. From Style to Place: The Emergence Of The Hair Salon in the Twentieth Century, Kim Smith 6. The Big Shave: Fashions In Modern Male Facial Hair, Dene October Part Two: Hair & Identity 7. Hair And Male (Homo) Sexuality: Up Top And Down Below, Shaun Cole 8. Hair, Gender And Looking, Geraldine Biddle-Perry 9. Men's Facial Hair in Islam: A Matter of Interpretation, Faegheh Shirazi 10. Resounding Power Of The Afro Comb, Carol Tulloch 11. Concerning Blondeness: Gender, Ethnicity, Spectacle And Footballers' Waves, Pamela Church-Gibson 12. Hair, devotion and trade in India, Eiluned Edwards Part Three: Hair in Representation: Film, Art, Fashion, Literature & Performance 13. Hairpieces: Hair, Identity and Memory in the Work of Mona Hatoum, Leila McKellar 14. Hair Without a Head: Disembodiment and The Uncanny, Janice Miller 15. Hair and Fashioned Femininity in Two Nineteenth-Century Novels, Royce Mahawatte. 16. Hair control: The Feminine 'Disciplined Head', Thom Hecht 17. Hair-'Dressing' In Desperate Housewives: Narration, Characterisation, And The Pleasures Of Reading Hair, Rachel Velody 18. Hair Styling In The Fashion Magazine: Nova In The 1970s, Alice Beard Conclusion 19. Conclusion: Hair and Human Identity, Sarah Cheang and Geraldine Biddle-Perry End Notes Index

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Book SynopsisCompetitive ballroom is much more than a style of dance. Rather, it is a continually evolving and increasingly global social and cultural arena: of fashion, performance, art, sport, gender, and more. Ballroom explores the intersection of dance cultures, dress, and the body. Presenting the author's experiences at an international range of dance events from Europe, the US and UK, as well as featuring the views of individual dancers, the book shows how dancing influences mind and body alike. For students of anthropology, dance, cultural, and performance studies, Ballroom provides an ethnographic picture of how dancers and others live their lives both on and off the dance floor.Trade ReviewBallroom is a deeply layered and compelling account of competitive ballroom dance, combining Jonathan Marion's insightful roles as ethnographer, photographer, and accomplished ballroom dancer. The book should be read by everyone curious about the fundamental nature of dance in human society, no matter what their particular dance passion may be. Anyone interested in the world of competitive ballroom dance will find Ballroom an invaluable resource. Anya Peterson Royce, Indiana University With the ethnographic authority of a ballroom dancer, Jonathan Marion takes us to the world of competitions in this exciting dancesport. Ballroom is an absorbing book. It reveals how this dance form indexes broader issues of performance and costume as well as gender, transnationality and the visual. Helena Wulff, Stockholm University A welcome addition to a growing body of literature about competitive and social dance forms ... not only contributes to our understanding of ballroom dance but also furthers and suggests the continuing promise of dance research carried out through interdisciplinary methodologies. American EthnologistTable of ContentsIntroduction Part 1: Setting the Stage Chapter 1: What is Competitive Ballroom Dance? Chapter 2: A Brief History of Ballroom Chapter 3: Judging Ballroom Dance Part 2: Performing Dancesport Chapter 4: Ballroom as Spectacle Chapter 5: Ballroom as Art Chapter 6: Ballroom as Sport Part 3: Ballroom Competitions as Events Chapter 7: Competitions as Festival and Celebration Chapter 8: Competitions as Ritual Part 4: Costs, Consequences, and Outcomes Chapter 9: Costumes and Conduct Chapter 10: Performing Gender Chapter 11: Living the Dancesport Life Conclusion

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Book SynopsisJapanese Fashion examines the entire sweep of Japanese clothing history, from the sophisticated fashion systems of late-Edo period kimonos to the present day, providing possible theories of how Japan made this fashion journey and linking current theories of fashion to the Japanese example. The book is unique in that it provides the first full history of the last 200 years of Japanese clothing. It is also the first book to include Asian fashion as part of global fashion as well as fashion theory. It adds a hitherto absent continuity to the understanding of historical and current fashion in Japan, and is pioneering in offering possible theories to account for that entire history. By providing an analysis of how that entire history changes our understanding of the way fashion works, this book will be an essential text for all students of fashion and design.Trade ReviewSlade sets himself very ambitious targets in Japanese Fashion: A Cultural History, an analytical survey of a whole clothing culture, which he successfully meets. Dr. Slade is an imaginative historian who has the ability to synthesize a wide range of sources, ranging from the offical record to the ephemeral and teh vernacular. Peter McNeil, Fashion Theory: Volume 14, Issue 4 This book is much more than just about fashion - it includes discussions of comparatives, political thought, mass-consumerism, the cloth industry and industrialization, roles of department stores, fashion magazines, wood-block prints, -art, education, schooling, sport,importance of The Rokumeikan (new large westernized building for the elite), and what Slade calls samuraization of all classes. Long, dense read, but really intriguing. Ann WrightTable of Contents1. Introduction: Modernity, Fashion and Japan Modernity and Modernity in Clothing Global Fashion and National Cultures Japan 2. Japanese Clothes 1800-2000 Clothing in the Edo Period Nakedness and Covering It Decency Foundation Choices: Yoga and Nihonga Materials and Materialism 'Westernisation' and Japanese Fashion Textile Industrialisation The Democratisation of Consumption World War II The Rise of Designers Today's Subcultures 3. Japanese Menswear: Masculinity and Sartorial Statecraft Uniforms and the State: The Emperor's New Clothes Suits: Modern and Classic Masculinity The Suit in Europe and America The Growing Civilised Centre The Japanese Suit The Rokumeikan Modern Boys Possible Masculinities post 2000 4. Japanese Womenswear: Femininity and Modernity Traditional Notions of Sartorial Womanhood Meiji Girl Students and School Uniforms Taisho Decadence and the Moga Sportswear, Swimwear & Movement Cosmetics and Substance Hairstyles: The First Experiments Kimono Reform and Traditional Identity Feminine Formality and Time 1960s Counter Culture in Japan Japanese Femininity Today 5. Conclusions: Theories of Japanese Fashion The Economics of Aesthetics A Set of Reoccurring Questions Functional Explanations Fashion as the Search for Meaning and/or Identity Fashion and the Struggle for Status The Economics of Fashion Fashion as Communication Dynamic Explanations of Fashion Fashion as Diffusion Cycles of Fashion Fashion as Erotic Fashion and the Zeitgeist Fashion as Aesthetics Acknowledgements Bibliography

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