Cultural studies: dress and society Books

Book SynopsisThe Vogue Factor is the former Australian Vogue Editor-in-Chief's candid account of life at the heart of the fashion industry, from photo shoots and celebrity interviews to the ugly truth behind the glamour - infighting, back-stabbing and the dangerous pursuit of beauty.This is the behind-the-scenes story of an illustrious career in fashion, from receptionist to the editor's chair. It's a life of dazzling parties, outrageous fashion and exotic travel that most people can only dream of. But behind the glossy photos is a hidden world of chaos and pressure, where girls as young as twelve starve themselves to fit into a sample size.Kirstie Clements' eye-opening account of life in fashion's fast lane has hit headlines all over the globe. Both a celebration and a critique of this extraordinary industry, The Vogue Factor is this season's must-have

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Book SynopsisWhat’s happening in Ireland? Behind the triumphalist headlines of the boom, there are changes going on – in the way people work, speak, eat, even the way they think – that cannot be quantified by statistics nor squared with the hollow cliché of the Celtic Tiger. She Moves through the Boom is a book about these intangible changes, and it paints a picture the newspapers and tourism propagandists are missing. Ann Marie Hourihane talks to working mothers, Mullingar wine importers, the organizer of a rural water scheme, shop assistants, a Nigerian preacher, teenaged removal men, and other exemplary – because ordinary – members of Irish society. These people aren’t talking about the boom; they’re living it, sometimes without even noticing, and they speak its languages – of social liberation, stubborn tradition, banal consumerism, and others. She Moves through the Boom presents a quirky, kaleidoscopic view of contemporary Ireland. By turns hilarious and dark, it is a fascinating snapshot of a singular moment in our history.

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Book SynopsisCreative Sole, Japanese Sneaker Culture is a book that looks at Japan s prolific presence in sneaker culture globally.

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Book SynopsisWartime fashion is perhaps more popular now than it ever was in the 1940s, with thousands regularly recreating the look. This is the perfect introduction to â40s fashion for anyone interested in the decade of make do and mend.

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Book SynopsisPeter McNeil is Professor of Design History at the University of Technology Sydney, Australia.Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Introduction Peter McNeil Chapter 1 – Textiles Tove Engelhardt Mathiassen Chapter 2 – Production and Distribution Beverly Lemire Chapter 3 – The Body Isabelle Paresys Chapter 4 – Belief Dagmar Freist Chapter 5 – Gender and Sexuality Dominic Janes Chapter 6 – Status Mikkel Venborg Pedersen Chapter 7 – Ethnicity Barbara Lasic Chapter 8 – Visual Representations Christian Huck Chapter 9 – Literary Representations Alicia Kerfoot Notes Bibliography Notes on Contributors Index

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Book SynopsisDiscover the true story behind the iconic London fashion label BOY' told by the man himself - Stephane Raynor. Packed with punk attitude and original photography, buy a ticket and take the ride. Join Raynor on a journey through a life less ordinary - lived in a tireless pursuit for THE NEW. Artist, innovator, designer, anarchist, hedonist, maverick, Raynor lives like he means it. The guy behind the guy behind the guy - he was there man...fomenting and agitating in the background of punk, new romantic, acid house, you name it.

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Book SynopsisMeticulously researched and beautifully produced. Times Literary SupplementA big and beautiful book. Journal of British StudiesA definitive history of the sports shoe. Amber Butchart, fashion historianA necessary book [and] a great read. Samuel Smallidge, Archivist, ConverseBoth educational and entertaining. Scene Point BlankThe story of the sneaker's rise from the first Victorian tennis shoes to the Nike Air Max and beyond.Moving from the athletic field to the shopping mall, Thomas Turner tells a fresh story of the evolution of the sports shoe against the changing landscape of society, sport, fashion, industry, and technology. The Sports Shoe takes us on a journey from the first Victorian tennis shoes to the sneaker of today, to the adidas Superstar and the innovative technologies of Nike Air Max. Featuring newly uncovered archival material and historic images showcasing key personalities, vintage marketing and common percTrade ReviewPart of the charm of this meticulously researched and beautifully produced book is that, for many of us, our first sports shoes carry the same kind of emotional charges as our first movies or our first records. * Times Literary Supplement *No mere history of shoemaking in the modern world, what Turner provides is a novel angle on the history of globalization, manufacturing, entrepreneurship, and the marketing of desire ... A big and beautiful book that is a valuable contribution to a cultural history of the modern world. * Journal of British Studies *Apart from the forensically researched history, the book is opulently illustrated with eye candy galore and insights that reveal why both certain stylistic abominations as well as enhancements have been implemented and sold over the years. The fact that the book pursues a holistic approach and goes beyond the realm of what collectors and athletes would look for in terms of looks, form and function; i.e. shedding light on societal contexts and interactions and thereby expanding its significance, makes it a both educational and entertaining addition for the bookshelf of anyone not only interested in fashion but anyone who has enjoyed a sports shoe in one form or another * Scene Point Blank *Beautifully chronicling over 100 years of the sports shoe, this is the most intricately detailed love letter to the sneaker ever written. * Jason Coles, author of 'Golden Kicks: The Shoes that Changed Sport' *With his thorough scholarship and wide-ranging research, Thomas has written a definitive history of the sports shoe. This a book to be enjoyed by historians of dress, economics, and technology, as well as sport enthusiasts and sneaker aficionados alike. * Amber Butchart, fashion historian and author, and presenter of the BBC's 'A Stitch in Time' *This is an enjoyable, absorbing and instructive book ... Indeed, Turner’s approach – his imaginative use of sources, his transdisciplinary approach and his focus on materiality and meaning – demonstrates that good sportswear history is simply ‘good history’. As such, I wholeheartedly recommend Thomas Turner’s book not only to sneakerheads and sports historians, but to scholars of all stripes. * Sport in History *A beautifully illustrated and thoroughly researched history ... If you want to know anything about the sport shoe, you must read this book. Just do it! * Giorgio Riello, author of 'Cotton: The Fabric That Made the Modern World' and 'A Foot in the Past: Consumers, Producers and Footwear in the Long Eighteenth Century', and University of Warwick, UK *We all wear them. How did the sports shoe become so ubiquitous? Telling the story of its rise and transformation, this is an original contribution to the study of material and popular culture. * Frank Trentmann, author of 'Empire of Things: How We Became a World of Consumers' and 'Free Trade Nation: Consumption, Civil Society and Commerce in Modern Britain', and Birkbeck, University of London, UK *A highly readable book of interest to anyone who has ever laced up a trainer. Lavishly illustrated, meticulously researched, and fluidly written ... a rich and surprising history of modernity. * Marybeth Hamilton, author of 'In Search of the Blues' *Thomas Turner has written a necessary book on the cultural history and impact of sports shoes. This is a great read for anyone interested in how a piece of sports equipment could transcend its original purpose and become a staple of everyday life. * Samuel Smallidge, Archivist, Converse *Extremely well-researched, wide-ranging, and engaging, this tremendous new book explores one of today’s most important forms of footwear. * Elizabeth Semmelhack, author of 'Out of the Box: The Rise of Sneaker Culture' and 'Shoes: The Meaning of Style', and Senior Curator, Bata Shoe Museum, Canada *Entertaining, passionate and wonderfully illustrated, this book places sports shoes within their wider social context so we can all truly appreciate their significance. * Rebecca Shawcross, author of 'Shoes: An Illustrated History', and Senior Shoe Curator, Northampton Museum and Art Gallery, UK *This engaging story of how the sports shoe went from functional to fashionable reveals how so many of us came to long for the latest in footwear. * Gary Cross, author of 'Consumed Nostalgia: Memory in the Age of Fast Capitalism' and 'An All Consuming Century: Why Commercialism Won in Modern America', and Penn State University, USA *Taking you on the fascinating journey of the sports shoe, this book provides sound insight into the essential relationship between form, function and innovation in design. Beyond sports shoe fans, it's a great read for anyone interested in fashion, product design, history or, frankly, anyone who has felt the liberation of wearing sports shoes in everyday life. * Claudine Rousseau, Head of Atelier, Rapha Racing *The rise of sports shoes is a fascinating story, told here with enthusiasm and in-depth knowledge. Whether you are a student of fashion, a sports enthusiast or a ‘sneakerhead’, you'll enjoy this excellent book. * Chris Hill, Northampton University, UK *For anyone who doubted the importance of the sports shoe to contemporary fashion, Thomas Turner's comprehensive study is essential reading ... The book is not only rigorous and intellectual, but also entertaining and accessible. * Janice Miller, author of 'Fashion and Music', and Kingston University London, UK *Table of ContentsAcknowledgements Introduction 1. Lawn tennis and the origins of the modern sports shoe 2. Sports style, youth, and modernity 3. The sports shoe reborn 4. Skateboarding and the reimagined sports shoe 5. Sneakers, basketball, and hip hop 6. Trainers on the soccer terraces 7. Globalized production, athleisure, and the postmodern sports shoe Conclusion List of Illustrations Notes Selected Bibliography Index

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Book SynopsisEighteenth-century fashion was cosmopolitan and varied. Whilst the wildly extravagant and colorful elite fashions parodied in contemporary satire had significant influence on wider dress habits, more austere garments produced in darker fabrics also reflected the ascendancy of a puritan middle class as well as a more practical approach to dress. With the rise of print culture and reading publics, fashions were more quickly disseminated and debated than ever, and the appetite for fashion periodicals went hand in hand with a preoccupation with the emerging concept of taste. Richly illustrated with over 100 images and drawing on pictorial, textual and object sources, A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Age of Enlightenment presents essays on textiles, production and distribution, the body, belief, gender and sexuality, status, ethnicity, and visual and literary representations to illustrate the diversity and cultural significance of dress and fashion in the Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Introduction Peter McNeil (University of Technology Sydney, Australia) Chapter 1 – Textiles Tove Engelhardt Mathiassen (National Open Air Museum of Urban History and Culture, Denmark) Chapter 2 – Production and Distribution Beverly Lemire (University of Alberta, Canada) Chapter 3 – The Body Isabelle Paresys (Université de Lille, France) Chapter 4 – Belief Dagmar Freist (Carl von Ossietzky-University Oldenburg, Germany) Chapter 5 – Gender and Sexuality Dominic Janes (University of Keele, UK) Chapter 6 – Status Mikkel Venborg Pedersen (National Museum in Copenhagen, Denmark) Chapter 7 – Ethnicity Barbara Lasic (Sotheby's Institute of Art, UK) Chapter 8 – Visual Representations Christian Huck (University of Kiel, Germany) Chapter 9 – Literary Representations Alicia Kerfoot (State University of New York, USA) Notes Bibliography Notes on Contributors Index

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Book SynopsisWhilst seemingly simple garments such as the tunic remained staples of the classical wardrobe, sources from the period reveal a rich variety of changing styles and attitudes to clothing across the ancient world. Covering the period 500 BCE to 800 CE and drawing on sources ranging from extant garments and architectural iconography to official edicts and literature, this volume reveals Antiquity's preoccupation with dress, which was matched by an appreciation of the processes of production rarely seen in later periods. From a courtesan's sheer faux-silk garb to the sumptuous purple dyes of an emperor's finery, clothing was as much a marker of status and personal expression as it was a site of social control and anxiety. Contemporary commentators expressed alarm in equal measure at the over-dressed, the excessively ascetic or at barbarian' silhouettes. Richly illustrated with 100 images, A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in Antiquity presents an overview Table of ContentsList of Illustrations Introduction Mary Harlow (University of Leicester, UK) Chapter 1 – Textiles Eva Andersson Strand (University of Copenhagen, Denmark) and Ulla Mannering (National Museum of Denmark) Chapter 2 – Production and Distribution Kerstin Droß-Krüpe (University of Kassel, Germany) Chapter 3 – The Body Glenys Davies (University of Edinburgh, UK) and Lloyd Llewellyn-Jones (Cardiff University, UK) Chapter 4 – Belief Carly Daniel Hughes (Concordia University, Canada) Chapter 5 – Gender and Sexuality Glenys Davies (University of Edinburgh, UK) and Lloyd Llewellyn-Jones (Cardiff University, UK) Chapter 6 – Status Kelly Olson (Western University, Canada) Chapter 7 – Ethnicity Ursula Rothe (Open University, UK) Chapter 8 – Visual Representations Lena Larsson Lovén (University of Gothenburg, Sweden) Chapter 9 – Literary Representations Mary Harlow (University of Leicester, UK) Notes Bibliography Notes on Contributors Index

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Book Synopsis'Dame Anna Wintour might be one of the best-known and most successful journalists on the planet. But it wasn't always like that. When she started out on Vogue she was often so miserable she had to phone her husband for help. This is just one of countless fascinating titbits in this zippy story of dizzying fortune, out-of this-world fashion, ingenuity, passion, sex and power.And, this being fashion, some intense bitchiness too. Started as a gossip magazine for snobbish New Yorkers in 1892, Vogue is now one of the most recognisable brands in the world. Spanning London, New York and Paris, this is a high-speed, fun read full of fascinating though not always likeable people.' Daily MailGlossy is a story of more than a magazine. It is a story of passion and power, dizzying fortune and out-of-this-world fashion, of ingenuity and opportunism, frivolity and malice. This is the definitive story of Vogue.Vogue magazine started, like so many great things do, in the spare room of someone's house. But unlike other such makeshift projects that flare up then fizzle away, Vogue burnt itself onto our cultural consciousness. Today, 128 years later, Vogue spans 22 countries, has an international print readership upwards of 12 million and nets over 67 million monthly online users. Uncontested market leader for a century, it is one of the most recognisable brands in the world and a multi-million dollar money-making machine. It is not just a fashion magazine, it is the establishment. But what - and more importantly who - made Vogue such an enduring success?Glossy will answer this question and more by tracing the previously untold history of the magazine, from its inception as a New York gossip rag, to the sleek, corporate behemoth we know now. This will be a biography of Vogue in every sense of the word, taking the reader through three centuries, two world wars, plunging failures and blinding successes, as it charts the story of the magazine and those who ran it.Trade ReviewDame Anna Wintour might be one of the best-known and most successful journalists on the planet. But it wasn't always like that.When she started out on Vogue she was often so miserable she had to phone her husband for help. This is just one of countless fascinating titbits in this zippy story of dizzying fortune, out-of this-world fashion, ingenuity, passion, sex and power.And, this being fashion, some intense bitchiness too. Started as a gossip magazine for snobbish New Yorkers in 1892, Vogue is now one of the most recognisable brands in the world. Spanning London, New York and Paris, this is a high-speed, fun read full of fascinating though not always likeable people. * Daily Mail *Riveting * The Arts Desk *Fashion never seemed more relevant than in this engrossing and unputdownable history of the Queen of them all...the story of Vogue's war years in France is extraordinary . . . wonderful * Miranda Seymour *An enthralling history. * Daily Mail *Nina-Sophia Miralles' Glossy takes readers on an in-depth voyage through the history and workings of Vogue, from the brand's establishment to the people who made it such a success. Branded "the definitive story of Vogue", the insightful retrospective details the 129-year-old publication's triumphs and tribulations, from its humble New York beginnings to its international influence today. * Country and Town House *Glossy: The Inside Story of Vogue, a new book by Nina-Sophia Miralles, is at least as much about the women, and occasional man, who have been the faces of the most potent fashion magazine brand as the actual publication. Rightly so * The Times *Full of stories.... Miralles has an eye for the telling detail. * Irish Times *VOGUE THE LAST WORD IN PUBLISHING GLOSSINESS If ever a magazine understood the special relationship between women and shiny paper, it is Vogue. Launched as "a dignified authentic journal of society, fashion and the ceremonial side of life," its pages have drawn the curious to its privileged glow since 1892. Whether they come to gawp at the hilarious prices or are genuinely seeking clues as to handbag silhouettes for autumn/winter, Vogue is fashion. So after 130 years a history is overdue, and Glossy tells a jaunty story of elite relationships, acute business acumen and some alluringly strange individuals. The great magazine entrepreneur Condé Nast saw its potential when he bought the title in 1909 and aimed it squarely at a market no one had spotted: extremely rich women. The creation of a luxuriant home for advertisers by using the finest editorial ingredients became the Condé Nast brand, and Vogue was its flagship. Nast, with his forensic socialising, is deserving of a book on his own, but the real stars are the outré terrors who have plotted their way into the editor's chair. GLOSSY by NINA-SOPHIA MIRALLES ,a vivacious and gossipy history of Vogue sees it less as a magazine, more as a school of philosophy, based on hauteur, social exclusivity, impeccable taste, and editors whose ideas at times verged on the lunatic. * Strong Words Magazine *Dame Anna Wintour might be one of the best-known and most successful journalists on the planet. But it wasn't always like that. When she started out on Vogue she was often so miserable she had to phone her husband for help. This is just one of countless fascinating titbits in this zippy story of dizzying fortune, out-of this-world fashion, ingenuity, passion, sex and power. And, this being fashion, some intense bitchiness too. Started as a gossip magazine for snobbish New Yorkers in 1892, Vogue is now one of the most recognisable brands in the world. Spanning London, New York and Paris, this is a high-speed, fun read full of fascinating though not always likeable people. * Daily Mail *

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Book SynopsisFashion is ever-changing, and while some styles mark a dramatic departure from the past, many exhibit subtle differences from year to year that are not always easily identifiable. With overviews of each key period and detailed illustrations for each new style, How to Read a Suit is an authoritative visual guide to the under-explored area of men's fashion across four centuries. Each entry includes annotated color images of historical garments, outlining important features and highlighting how styles have developed over time, whether in shape, fabric choice, trimming, or undergarments. Readers will learn how garments were constructed and where their inspiration stemmed from at key points in history as well as how menswear has varied in type, cut, detailing and popularity according to the occasion and the class, age and social status of the wearer. This lavishly illustrated book is the ideal tool for anyone who has ever wanted to know their Chesterfield from their Ulster coat. ETrade ReviewA reminder that even the most devil-may-care of modern male dressers is out-fopped by his antecedents. * Anna Murphy, The Times *Another excellent resource from Lydia Edwards, indispensable both to the fashion history novice and expert alike. * Amber Butchart, fashion historian, author and broadcaster *Lavishly illustrated [and] wonderfully researched … the ‘How to Read’ series of books are perfect research guides for students, researchers and anyone with an interest in historical fashion. * Costume Society UK *A fascinating tome that examines changes in men's fashion in a vibrant and visually striking way ... From the styles of political movements in the French Revolution to the famous 'Palm Beach' suits of America in the 1930s, this is a rich and extensive study of the suit and men's fashion. * All About History *Fans of historical fiction and period dramas will gain new insights into their favorite characters by learning how "clothes make the man" … Collections covering Western culture, fashion, and costume design will want to add this title to this season’s collections. * Booklist *What I enjoyed most was the range of examples included in the book. I thought Edwards did an amazing job selecting and managing disparate sources of inspiration ... this was a terrific book and would serve as an excellent reference for anyone studying or designing menswear and as well as anyone interested in the history of menswear. * Critical Studies in Men's Fashion *How to Read a Suit provides an easy-to-read guide to the history behind subject that is glazed over most of the Edwards, walks the reader chronologically through the history of seventeenth to twentieth century. * The Journal of Dress History *Fun to read. * Hasty Book List *Once again, Lydia Edwards refines centuries of costume history into its most essential elements, capturing the subtle markers of masculinity in an accessible and engaging manner. This book is not only a delightful sequel to How to Read a Dress, but an essential text for any library and also makes a helpful companion to The Dress Detective. * Ingrid Mida, Curator, Dress Historian and Author *Lydia Edwards' superb choice of illustrations, and excellent analysis, make this book an essential complement to How to Read a Dress. Men's clothing, so often ignored, is here given its rightful place in costume history. * Jean Druesedow, Kent State University Museum, USA *The idea that men ever renounced fashion is eloquently disproved by this book. Packed with images of sartorial splendour, it is an invaluable resource to anyone interested in the male wardrobe. * Cally Blackman, Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London, UK *Table of ContentsAcknowledgments Preface Introduction Chapter 1: 1666-1700 Chapter 2: 1700-1799 Chapter 3: 1800-1859 Chapter 4: 1860-1899 Chapter 5: 1900-1939 Chapter 6: 1939-1969 Chapter 7: 1970-2000 Glossary of Terms Notes Bibliography Photographic Credits Index

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Book SynopsisThe "Beauty Sleuth" from Glamour shares professional secrets about how to achieve a sophisticated and fashionable appearance on a budget, from high-quality hair coloring results from inexpensive salons to affordable do-it-yourself skin-care cocktails. Original. 50,000 first printing.

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Book SynopsisRiffling through the wardrobes of years gone by, costume historian Lucy Adlington reveals the rich stories underlying the clothes we wear in this stylish tour of the most important developments in the history of fashion, from ancient times to the present day. Starting with underwear – did you know Elizabeth I owned just one pair of drawers, worn only after her death? – she moves garment by garment through Western attire, exploring both the items we still wear every day and those that have gone the way of the dodo (sugared petticoats, farthingales and spatterdashers to name but a few).Beautifully illustrated throughout, and crammed with fascinating and eminently quotable facts, Stitches in Time shows how the way we dress is inextricably bound up with considerations of aesthetics, sex, gender, class and lifestyle – and offers us the chance to truly appreciate the extraordinary qualities of these, our most ordinary possessions.Trade ReviewAnyone with a closet full of vintage clothes will find Stitches in Time a fascinating primer to the art of getting dressed. * Mail on Sunday *Lucy Adlington has done something very impressive in making this a lively, vibrant and constantly interesting history – with each chapter focusing on a different area of clothing, and the vastly different history that accompanies each item. Some of the stories here are utterly fascinating, some rather upsetting, and some surprisingly moving – not what you would expect from a history of clothes ... You'll come away far more knowledgeable, and have a different viewpoint next time you open the wardrobe. * Bookbag *An enjoyable and easily accessible read to anyone who has an interest in the history of clothing, or history in general. * Who Do You Think You Are? Magazine *The commentary is cogent and wise... detailed and absorbing * TLS *Fascinating * S Magazine, Sunday Express *

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Book SynopsisWhat would happen if we turned our back on fast fashion trends? If we took time to slow down, to take pride in caring for our clothes and making them last as long as possible? These are the questions at the heart of Steamery''s mission. Since 2014, the brand has developed a wide range of products specially designed to bring out the best of your wardrobe. Now Steamery is sharing its secrets to inspire you to not only appreciate the garments you love, but to find joy in the mindful act of clothing care.With quick and simple tips, The Art of Clothing Care shows you how making small changes can go a long way in keeping your wardrobe looking wonderful.This comprehensive guide includes tips on checking a garment''s quality, how to shop for pre-loved clothes, keeping your wardrobe fresh and clean without over-washing, how to remove different types of stains, simple clothing repairs and upcycling ideas, as well as inspiring thoughts on the future of fas

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Book SynopsisAll over the world, people get dressed, mostly for the same reasons. Why, then, do we look so different from each other? The answers lie in the constellations of factors that contribute to the human condition, from climate to conformity, gender expression to race and ethnicity.Beginning with the body as the organizing principle around which to study dress, this 50th anniversary edition of The Visible Self makes sense of humans as biological, social, and aesthetic creatures based on cross-disciplinary concepts and examples. It explores the daily act of dress in cultures around the world, using the word dress to describe the wide variety of behaviors connected to the act of adorning our bodiesor notthrough the use of clothing, modifications, and/or supplements. Political economies are addressed holistically to understand the global world through contemporary topics such as racism and how dress can be used to sustain or rebel against dominant structures. With current examples and rTable of ContentsPreface Acknowledgments Part I: Body, Dress, and Culture Chapter 1 The Body Chapter 2 The Classification System for Dress Chapter 3 Dress, Culture, and Society Part II: Political Economies and Dress Chapter 4 Political Economies and Dress Chapter 5 Fashion, The Body, and Culture Part III: Art, Aesthetics, and Dress Chapter 6 The Art of Creating Dress Chapter 7 Standards, Ideals, and the Art of Dress Chapter 8 Conformity and Individuality in Dress Chapter 9 Dress and the Arts Chapter 10 One World of Dress Appendix Bibliography Credits for Figures Index

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Book SynopsisBold and engaging, a well-researched look at how clothes can simultaneously reveal and conceal.(Victoria Bateman, author of Naked Feminism: Breaking the Cult of Female Modesty)Do you sometimes look at yourself and think, I can't wear this without a bra my nipples are showing? Have you ever heard someone tell you that you can't go out like that, after looking you up and down?This book is a thought-provoking exploration of the double standards faced by women. Through personal stories and insightful analysis, it challenges Western societal norms and the pressure to conform. Delving into the complex interplay between femininity, bras and societal expectations, this empowering read invites individuals to redefine their understanding of what it means to be decent in a patriarchal society.

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Book SynopsisTextile has been used as a medium of communication since the prehistoric period. Up until the 19th century, civilizations throughout the world manipulated thread and fabric to communicate in a way that would astound many of us now. Unlike text and images, textile is haptic and three-dimensional. Its meaning is unfixed, constantly shifting as it circulates between different owners and creators. In How Textile Communicates, Ganaele Langlois dissects textile's unique capacity for communication through a range of global case studies, before examining the profound impact of colonialism on textile practice and the appropriation of this medium by capitalist systems. A thought-provoking contribution to the fields of both fashion and communication studies, Langlois' writing challenges readers' preconceptions and shines new light on the profound impact of textiles on human communication.Trade ReviewA major contribution to intercultural and decolonial studies as it examines how the communicative capacities of textile have been taken for granted across boundaries, borders, disciplines and technologies. * Janis Jefferies, Emeritus Professor of Visual Arts, Goldsmiths, University of London, UK *Table of ContentsIntroduction: Textile as Communication Winding Back Textile as a Medium Textile Making as Mediating Textile Making and Power Decolonizing Media and Communication Book Overview Part 1: Communicative Power 1. Unraveling Textile from Commodity to Communication A Plural Medium Textile as Communication Medium: Historical Pointers Two Common Understandings of Communication through Textile: as Representation and Information Towards a Third Aspect: textile as binding worlds through space and time Global Textile, or Communication as Expressive Power Textile, a Medium of Struggle 2. Quechua Textility Pre-Columbian Textiles: Media and Power Indigenous Identities in Contemporary Peru The Revival of Quechua Textiles Confronting Appropriation Part 2: Technology and Imagination 3. Jacquard and the Creativity of Extensions The Jacquard Mechanism, Automation and Digital Media Weaving Digital Images Weaving as Extension 4. Communicating Across the Abyss Of the Meanings, Symbols and Patterns in Diasporic Textile Mathematics, Rhythms and Signs The Values of Making Part 3: Transformative Entanglements 5. Reweaving the Interface Domestic Textiles and Power Marking Subjects Reading through the Lines: The Evanescent Maker Portable Technologies of Making “Where Am I going?”: Creative Meandering 6. Kené, or the Promise of Unknowing Shipibo-Conibo Textiles and Perspectival Anthropology Kené in the Global Market Delineating the Space of Unknowing and Potentials Back to the Basics Part 4: Cosmomedia 7. Cosmomedia - the Tale of Two Indigos Cosmotechnics and Ecosophical Media Combinations and Recombinations: Indigo dyeing and the making of worlds Colonizing Indigo Indigo and Collectives of Humans and Non-Humans Japanese Indigo and Natural Dyes as Cosmomedia Conclusion: The Shape of Things to Come

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Book SynopsisProviding insight into a broad and expanding range of topics, The Meanings of Dress, 5th Edition examines social, behavioral, and cultural aspects in fashion and dress based on current research and practices. This revised edition responds fully to the current social and fashion trends by including theoretical perspectives of intersectional identities in global landscapes, global fashion and dress, and efforts to decentralize and decolonize the normative Eurocentric approach to fashion and dress studies. This edition includes two brand new chapters: Decentralizing and Decolonizing Fashion and Dress and Social Justice and Human Rights. New emphasis has been placed on how dress and fashion work as communication, not just non-verbal but also explicitly in social media. Issues on ethics in fashion are incorporated now throughout the book. New to this Edition: Theoretical perspectives of intersectional identities in global landscapes, global fashion and dress, an

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Book SynopsisIdeas about the Scottish Highlands which took hold around the turn of the 19th century remain to the present day – for many people across the world Highland dress, bagpipes and Highland landscapes are the images of Scotland that first spring to mind. National Museums Scotland holds a significant collection of Highland dress and tartan clothing. The aims of Dr Rosie Waine's two-year research project include a survey of the collection and an exploration of how such outfits became an integral part of Scottish identity on a global stage.Table of ContentsForeword by Professor Christopher Breward, Director, National Museums Scotland Foreword by David Grant, William Grant Foundation Introduction by Dr Rosie Waine, National Museums Scotland CHAPTERS 1. Highland dress culture and the national collections 2. The rise and influence of the Highland societyies 3. Designing and trading tartan in Georgian Britain 4. Highland style in Georgian Society Afterword List of sources Index Acknowledgements

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Book SynopsisCarol Tulloch is Professor of Dress, Diaspora and Transnationalism at Chelsea College of Arts, University of the Arts London, UK. She is also the Chelsea College of Arts/Victoria and Albert Museum Fellow in Black British Visual and Material Culture.Trade ReviewAn amazing new celebration of black style, from Billie Holiday to Malcolm X … the product of a lifetime’s research. * The Observer *Readers/researchers interested in understanding the style practices of the African diaspora, or looking for ways to understand the field from a position that allows for a richer and more complicated ways of observing dress history [will] certainly get something from this book. * The Journal of Dress History *In this engaging book, Tulloch (Univ. of the Arts, London) expands on her work on the ‘styled black body’…She uses an image or object—of the 2006 Stoned Cherrie Steve Biko T-shirt, say—and discusses its cultural weight and significance, presents readings and ‘wonderings’ (from her colleague Mona Choo), and then offers her own ‘alternative reading.’ The end result is a winsome mix of approaches to her subjects, backed up by serious scholarship. Summing up: Recommended. * CHOICE *The Birth of Cool makes a unique contribution to studies of dress and culture, as well as to black studies and diaspora studies. Tulloch deconstructs and reconstructs black aesthetics to open new pathways for understanding the lives and social histories of figures like Billie Holiday and Malcolm X. It is one of the most impressive works I have read in years. * D. Soyini Madison, Northwestern University, USA *The Birth of Cool offers a passionate reflexive analysis of transnational black glamour as an expression of undeniable presence, knowledge, and agency. As a foundational text, this book offers readers a deeper and more historical understanding of contemporary 'cool response' activism perhaps most famously practiced by Barack Obama, but visibly evident across the entire African diaspora. * Annette Lynch, University of Northern Iowa, USA *Table of ContentsIntroduction: This Time it’s Personal 1. Angel in the Market Place: The African-Jamaican Higgler, 1880-1903 2. ‘We Also Should Walk in the Newness of Life’: Individualised Harlem Styles of the 1930s 3. ‘All of Me’: Billie Holiday 4. ‘My Man Let Me Pull Your Coat to Something’: Malcolm X 5. You Should Understand, it’s a Freedom Thing: The Stoned Cherrie-Steve Biko T-shirt 6. Here: The Haunting Joy of Being in England Coda Bibliography Index

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Book Synopsis"A collection of essential quotations from the renowned fashion designer, DJ, and stylist"--Trade Review"Virgil Abloh says the darndest, most illuminating things—enough in his young fashion career to fill a 160-page book titled Abloh-isms. . . . The book maps out Abloh’s unique thinking in chapters devoted to his early years, his inspirations and influences, his creative methods, his impact and his singular point of view on streetwear, fashion and art . . . breathtakingly incisive."---Miles Socha, Women’s Wear Daily online"[Abloh-isms] spotlights a diverse selection of quotes by Virgil Abloh who has made a profound mark in the worlds of fashion, art, design and pop culture. Authored by Larry Warsh, the book features a collection of quotes by Abloh that were gathered from interviews, discussions, media outlets and other sources. The quotes touch on Abloh’s creativity, passion, innovation, race, and what it means to be an artist of his generation."---Keith Estiler, Hypebeast"Abloh-isms is the new Bible for all the fans of the American designer. . . . An unmissable volume for all Abloh fans, and for all fashion lovers." * NSS Magazine *"This set of quotes reflects the unique and peculiar perspective, idea and philosophy that accompanied Virgil Abloh throughout his life showing us how he became an icon of our time." * Collater.al *

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Book Synopsis***'Warm, thought-provoking and honest.' - Victoria Hislop'Clever, emotionally intelligent, revelling in style without making us yearn to shop.' - The Times'Self-deprecating and stylish, this is sure to become a classic.' - Vanity Fair'Thoughtful, wry and candid.' - Mail on Sunday'A must-read memoir for even those beyond the fashion set.' - Evening Standard 'It's funny, honest and in typical Shulman style mixes high and low effortlessly. We don't know many people who can write about bras, Donald Tusk and Madeleine Albright all in the same sentence.' - A Little Bird'Scintillating reading.' - The Spectator'Alexandra Shulman's style is unaffected, immediate and hilariously dry. She's brilliant at observing everyday feelings in a joy-sparking turn of phrase.' - Helena Bonham Carter-'Clothes... and other things that matter is a book not only about clothes but about the way we live our lives. From childhood onwards, the way we dress is a result of our personal history. In a mix of memoir, fashion history and social observation I am writing about the person our clothes allows us to be and sometimes the person they turn us into.' - Alexandra ShulmanIn Clothes... and other things that matter, Alexandra Shulman delves into her own life to look at the emotions, ambitions, expectations and meanings behind the way we dress. From the bra to the bikini, the trench coat to trainers, the slip dress to the suit, she explores their meaning in women's lives and how our wardrobes intersect with the larger world - the career ladder, motherhood, romance, sexual identity, ambition, failure, body image and celebrity.By turns funny, refreshingly self-deprecating and often very moving, this startlingly honest memoir from the ex-Editor of British Vogue will encourage women of all ages to consider what their own clothes mean to them, the life they live in them and the stories they tell.Trade ReviewClothes is the perfect isolation read - clever, emotionally intelligent, revelling in style without making us yearn to shop. -- Hannah Betts * The Times *She has written about her clothes, and given us some scintillating reading. [...] hugely engaging memoir. -- Emily Bearn * The Spectator *I really loved this book- it's warm, thought-provoking and honest. In the end, I had to ration myself because I didn't want to finish. In these frankly strange times it was wonderful and comforting. -- Victoria HislopI loved this book. It's great company and a Corona comfort. Alexandra Shulman's style is unaffected, immediate and hilariously dry. She's brilliant at observing everyday feelings in a joy-sparking turn of phrase - but better still she has made me feel so much better about owning too many clothes. Instead of doing a ruthless edit I find myself curating my own private exhibition - inside my wardrobe hang not just clothes, not just stories but my own autobiography. -- Helena Bonham CarterSuch a great read - so open and honest and funny. I devoured it in one sitting. -- Kirsty WarkA must-read memoir for even those beyond the fashion set. * Evening Standard *From the hat that went to the a Royal wedding to a life-changing bathrobe, Alexandra Shulman tells her life story in clothes ... in her hotly anticipated memoir. * You magazine *A life beyond Moss, mwahs and Manolo Blahniks - by the fashionista that really knows [...] a wry and candid part-memoir, part-fashion history, part-social commentary. * Mail on Sunday *Its jacket of bubblegum pink letters on grown-up navy certainly suggested to me that it might just be the perfect lockdown pick-me-up [...] among its pages, there are some lovely, resonant set pieces. * Book of the Week, Observer *Shulman can craft a good story and has an eye for great pictures [...] it will make perfect lockdown reading, an opportunity to shut out the real world and meander through the Arcadian years of fashion. * The Sunday Times *It's so wonderful, and has kept me beautiful, nostalgic, wry, clever company during this time. I love it. -- Sophie DahlFor those to whom clothes are a source of happiness this book is possibly the perfect lockdown pick-me-up. It is the chance to meander quietly through the golden years of fashion, accompanied by the one woman who has been there, done that and definitely worn the t-shirt. * A Little Bird *Self-deprecating and stylish, this is sure to become a classic. * Vanity Fair *One of 2020's best non-fiction books: 'In the funny and opinionated Clothes... and other things that matter, former Vogue UK editor Alexandra Shulman explores the meaning of clothes and how we wear them. From the little black dress to the white shirt and the bikini, she takes pieces of clothes and examines their role in her own life and the lives of women in general, touching on issues including sexual identity, motherhood, ambition, power and body image. A must-read for anyone, like Miranda Priestly, who knows that clothes might not maketh the woman, but they certainly help.' * Stylist *The book's relatability is one of its chief merits. So is its smart interrogation of what different clothes mean and why. * Financial Times *It is an enjoyably blunt, witty read from a woman who knows that clothes are not the only thing that matter - but who understands that they teach us a lot about pretty much everything else that does. * The i *

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Book SynopsisFashion History: A Global View proposes a new perspective on fashion history. Arguing that fashion has occurred in cultures beyond the West throughout history, this groundbreaking book explores the geographic places and historical spaces that have been largely neglected by contemporary fashion studies, bringing them together for the first time.Reversing the dominant narrative that privileges Western Europe in the history of dress, Welters and Lillethun adopt a cross-cultural approach to explore a vast array of cultures around the globe. They explore key issues affecting fashion systems, ranging from innovation, production and consumption to identity formation and the effects of colonization. Case studies include the cross-cultural trade of silk textiles in Central Asia, the indigenous dress of the Americas and of Hawai''i, the cosmetics of the Tang Dynasty in China, and stylistic innovation in sub-Saharan Africa. Examining the new lessons that can be deciphered from aTrade ReviewFashion History: A Global View is inspirational for new studies on fashion history by showing how new styles were initiated at times, in places and in ways that ordinarily are not included in fashion history. The book can further extend the way fashion history is taught at the colleges and the universities. * Markets, Globalization & Development Review *How wonderfully well-timed is this book! A milestone in the field, Fashion History marks a point to which fashion scholarship has been evolving, and at which we can now pause and take stock. -- Antonia Finnane, University of Melbourne, Australia.This new fashion world history persuasively argues for a definition of fashion beyond the modern west. From Chinese lip fashions to ‘vernacular version of the standard suit’ (shorts and T shirts) this is an essential overview of the development and state of the field. Ranging in topic from the Ancient World to past and present East, South and South-east Asia, the book will surprise and delight. Notable for its clarity and precision, illustrated with fascinating examples, the book is essential reading for all students and devotees of fashion and its histories. -- Peter McNeil, University of Technology Sydney, Australia and Aalto University, FinlandTable of ContentsList of Illustrations Foreword by Joanne B. Eicher Acknowledgments 1. Introduction: Europe and the People Without Fashion Part I. Understanding Fashion and Its History 2. The Lexicon of Fashion 3. Fashion Systems 4. How We Got Here Part II. Outside the Canon: Alternative Fashion Histories 5. Fashion Systems in Prehistory and the Americas 6. Fashion Systems and Trade Networks in the Eastern Hemisphere 7. Fashion Systems in East, South and Southeast Asia 8. Alternative Fashion Histories in Euro-America 9. Global Fashion 10. Conclusion Bibliography Index

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Book Synopsis'A sensual and intellectual pleasure from start to finish' - Deborah Levy, author of The Cost of LivingWe are all dressed. But how often do we pause to think about the place of our clothes in our lives? What unconscious thoughts do we express when we dress every day? Can memories, meaning and ideas be wrapped up in a winter coat?These are the questions that interest Shahidha Bari, as she explores the secret language of our clothes. Ranging freely through literature, art, film and philosophy, Dressed tracks the hidden power of clothes in our culture and our daily lives. From the depredations of violence and ageing to our longing for freedom, love and privacy, from the objectification of women to the crisis of masculinity, each garment exposes a fresh dilemma. Item by item, the story of ourselves unravels. Evocative, enlightening and dazzlingly original, Dressed is not just about clothes as objects of fashion or as a means of self-expression. This is a book about the deepest philosophical questions of who we are, how we see ourselves and how we dress to face the world.Trade ReviewBari’s investigation into how we construct our selves, individually and collectively, is a sensual and intellectual pleasure from start to finish. -- Deborah LevyA deeply original, compelling thinker and a brilliant writer. Dressed is the finest philosophy of clothes since Tomas Carlyle’s Sartor Resartus in 1834. Bari’s writing is limpidly clear, informed by a rich literary knowledge, theoretically and historically informed, sensuous and deeply textured, like a piece of luxurious fabric. It is also funny. But make no mistake: this is a work of philosophy. It just happens to be about clothes. -- Simon CritchleyDressed is a feast of a book, a supreme example of the new kind of essay – exploratory, reflective, full of the personal energy of Shahidha Bari herself and also her wide knowledge. -- Marina Warner[A] clever, subtle book… Although [Bari's] writing is critically informed…her tone is insistently personal, intimate even… Between her main chapters she drops in lyrical accounts of her own encounters with specific items of clothing… Bari wants us to think not so much about what clothes say as how they make us feel. -- Kathryn Hughes * Guardian *[There are] many delectable facts waiting to be discovered in Shahidha Bari’s Dressed… Dressed is irresistible when Bari riffs with extraordinary breadth and depth on the cultural meanings of the items she describes… I put Dressed down having been dazzled by Bari’s learning and insights... In the end, Dressed is an argument for taking apparently frivolous things seriously... More than this, though, Bari communicates the joy and powerful sense of interconnected humanity clothes can bring.” -- Lucy Moore * Literary Review *

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Book Synopsis ''The most entertaining book of the year'' Sunday Times ''The autobiography of magazine kingpin Nicholas Coleridge is a Waugh-like whirlwind of eccentric characters, lavish parties and even a spell in a Sri Lankan jail. It was funny enough to excuse all the name-dropping'' Evening Standard, Books of the Year ''A ludicrously well-connected magazine impresario. Whimsical tales of Bob Geldof, William Hague, Princess Diana and George Osborne jostle with recollections of glitzy parties at castles and producing the Eton magazine with Craig Brown. It''s gossipy good fun'' Sunday Times''A deliciously moreish memoir of the author''s glittering career in magazine publishing. Like having a really good gossip over a glass of fizz with Evelyn Waugh'' Sunday Telegraph''Sparkling. Witty, nimble and engaging, it is wonderfully entertaining and a marvellous slice of social history'' Jane Trade ReviewColeridge is a witty writer . . . reading this book is like sitting next to a sharp but generous-hearted raconteur at dinner * Mail on Sunday *Has bounding vitality, glorious zest and and an uplifting generosity of spirit. It is always playful, sometimes hilarious - but above all it is wise * Richard Davenport-Hines, Literary Review *In these dark days of everlasting Brexit, Nicholas Coleridge's sparkling memoir is a welcome reminder that all is not gloom and doom. Witty, nimble and engaging, it is wonderfully entertaining and a marvellous slice of social history * Jane Ridley, Spectator *A deliciously moreish memoir of the author's glittering career in magazine publishing. Like having a really good gossip over a glass of fizz with Evelyn Waugh. * Allison Pearson, Sunday Telegraph * Tittle-tattle, tiffs and titanic egos, this book has them all. A hugely entertaining read by the ultimate insider * A Sunday Times best memoir of 2019 *Forthright, witty and gossipy . . . a passion for glossy magazines shines through this effervescent memoir * Sunday Express *A Waugh-like whirlwind of eccentric characters, lavish parties and even a spell in a Sri Lankan jail. It was funny enough to excuse all the name-dropping * Evening Standard, Books of the Year *I truly think this is a brilliant book. laughed almost continuously * Charles Moore, The Spectator *Beady and slyly funny, my favourite bit concerns punctuation in the late Betty Kenward's society column. It's that kind of book * India Knight, Sunday Times *Gloriously funny, affectionate and well-written, his ear for how other people speak is mischievously spot-on and his optimism is infectious * Daily Mail, Memoirs of the Year *Worth every penny for names dropped, inside stories, expertise in how that world worked and, endearingly, how his happy marriage and family have too * Susan Hill, Spectator *The most entertaining book of the year * Sunday Times *An entertaining whirlwind * Evening Standard *Gentle, jolly . . . Blissfully funny . . . One might wish to make people as happy, personally and professionally, as Coleridge has done - and will continue to do with this amusing book * The Sunday Telegraph *I adored it. Coleridge has a Waugh-like eye for hilarious social nuance and a Henry Jamesian ear for precision. He is both self-deprecating and shrewd as he regales us with his rollicking ride as editor and tastemaker in the world of British glossy magazines: an irresistible read * Tina Brown *The memoir of a ludicrously well-connected magazine impresario. Whimsical tales of Bob Geldof, William Hague, Princess Diana and George Osborne jostle with recollections of glitzy parties at castles and producing the Eton magazine with Craig Brown. It's gossipy good fun * The Sunday Times Best Memoirs of 2019 *

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Book SynopsisOne day a woman of average means waltzes by a jewellery shop window and spots a 20,000 diamond necklace. She can''t get it out of her head. Eventually she gets the idea of sharing it with friends, persuading them to chip in a grand each to buy the necklace. This is the true story of 13 ordinary women, and one extraordinary adventure.The Necklace is the amazing true story of thirteen women who didn''t want to give up on their dreams. They clubbed together to buy a gorgeous diamond necklace, agreeing that each of them would have it for four weeks at a time. They would meet every month to find out what the necklace (now dubbed ''Jewelia'') had been up to. The club had some rules: if someone went to Paris, they got the necklace. At least once, everyone had to wear the necklace whilst making love.After two years, the necklace had been loaned out to nieces, grandmas, friends and granddaughters. It had been worn by brides and colleagues and sisters and friends. And when it was their turn for Trade Review‘With all the elements of Hollywood’s next big thing … a fabulously real, feel-good read.’ Good Housekeeping ‘We aren't what we own or wear. But we are what we read. And "The Necklace" will be read widely….the best way to honour the book's principles is to share your copy with a friend.' - New York Times ‘The Necklace is a fascinating journey into thirteen women's lives. Sweet and touching, it also manages to make you think about what really matters in life.' - Kathie Lee Gifford, from NBC’s Today Show ‘Never before has one piece of jewelry changed the lives of so many women - and created a lasting legacy of charity in the community they live in. I laughed, I cried . . . now I'm window shopping at Tiffany's.’ - Leslie Lehr, author of Wife Goes On

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Book SynopsisIn 1881, a writer in the Saturday Review called tattooing an art without a history'. No-one', it went on, has made it the business of his life to study the development of tattooing.' Until now.Painted People is a beguiling and intimate look at an untold history of humanity.The earliest tattoos yet identified belonged to Ötzi, the iceman', whose mummy allows us a brief glimpse into the prehistory of the practice. We know that over the more than five thousand years since he was tattooed, countless cultures have performed this ancient practice, and people in every corner of the world have been tattooed. For the most part, these fascinating histories remain stubbornly untold, and the secrets of Siberian princesses, Chinese generals and Victorian socialites have been hidden on the skin, under layers of clothing and under layers of history. Now with access to a wealth of new and unreported material, this book will roll up its sleeves and reveal the artwork hidden beneath them.In Painted People, Dr Matt Lodder, one of the world's foremost experts on tattooing, tells the stories of people like Arnaq, who was tattooed in keeping with her cultural and religious traditions in sixteenth-century Canada, and Horace Ridler, who was tattooed as a means to make money in 1930s London. And in between these two extremes, he describes tattoos inked for love, for loyalty, for sedition and espionage and for self-expression, as well as tattoos inflicted on the unwilling, to ostracise. Taken together, these twenty-one tattoos paint a portrait of humanity as both artist and canvas.Trade Review‘Intriguing and thoughtful’ Shahidaha Bari, Literary Review ‘Fascinating’ Stories & Ink

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Book SynopsisThroughout his life, clothes have provided an outlet through which journalist Teo van den Broeke understands both himself and the world around him.From the blue princess dress he coveted as a child, that first led him to question whether he was normal', through to the Nike cap and Gucci loafers he wore to impress the men he first desired, fabric has long enveloped and shaped his formative moments.Using the wardrobe of his past as a lens through which to explore the myriad trials and tribulations of adolescence, The Closet charts Teo's growth from uncertainty to self-acceptance. Courageously recounting his sexual awakening, the all too familiar hesitancy around his adult future and his many, often tumultuous, relationships with family and friends Teo learns that it is only in celebrating our differences that we can learn to fully embrace the brilliance within ourselves.Trade Review“Witty and original and incredibly touching. I loved this book.” Andrew Scott “Teo van den Broeke’s clever and beautiful memoir is as chic as it is emotional.” Giles Hattersley, Features Director, Vogue “A coming-of-age story that is both completely original and hugely relatable.” Jess Cartner-Motley, Associate Fashion Editor, The Guardian “Both a love letter and an homage to any kid who feels a bit different. A life affirming read.” Dermot O’Leary “A completely original coming out tale that is dressed to kill.” Dylan Jones, Editor-in-chief, Evening Standard “I laughed, I cried, I wanted better clothes. The Closet is a tapestry of pin sharp realisations that unpicks modern manhood.” Raven Smith, The Sunday Times Bestselling Author “Funny, moving, tender and true, this memoir will resonate with anyone who has ever been young, misunderstood, and head-over-heels in love with a pair of unsuitable shoes. That’s everyone, right?” Alex Bilmes, Editori-in-chief, Esquire

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Book SynopsisA beautiful gift for those with a fashionable eyeLong before Diana's revenge dress took the world by storm or Princess Anne's sunglasses went viral, there has always been a fascination with members of the Royal Family and the significance behind their style.The Times has been documenting this fascination for more than 200 years from the early Regency period to modern day and has borne witness to the evolution of the Crown's carefully curated public image. With access to the rich history of The Times archive, this authoritative account peels back the layers of silk and chiffon to re-examine the royals who captured the public imagination through their inimitable style.The perfect gift for royal watchers and fashion lovers alike, this lavishly illustrated volume features:A foreword by Anna Murphy, author and Fashion Director of The TimesStunning full-colour photography, rarely seen archival images and fashion sketchesArticles from The Times archive, which reveal fascinating social comme

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Book SynopsisJillian Venters was a fairly spooky and morbid child, with parents who never objected to her eccentric taste in clothing. When she discovered the existence of the whole Gothic subculture, she clapped her hands with glee. Eventually she came to realise that excellent clothes were not a substitute for excellent manners.

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Book SynopsisLiza Dalby is an anthropologist specialising in Japanese culture and the only Westerner to have become a geisha. She is the author of The Tale of Murasaki, Geisha and consulted on Steven Spielberg's film of Memoirs of a Geisha. She lives in California with her husband and three children.Trade ReviewShe offers a tour of the cultural collisions that have become part of the fabric not just of the kimono but of modern Japan. It is a tour well worth taking * Wall Street Journal *An impressive, unusual and beautiful book. There are many valuable insights here – not only about Japanese clothing but also about patterns of gender, class and identity in Japanese culture -- Joseph J. Tobin, author of 'Re-Made in Japan'A lively, informative study of the kimono, tracing its evolution throughout Japanese history to its current status as the national dress of Japan… At once scholarly and enjoyable reading * Journal of Japanese Studies *

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Book SynopsisAlexa Chung''s IT: the Top Ten Bestseller from the international fashion muse and Vogue contributing editorNow a Penguin paperback, this one-off collection of Alexa Chung''s writing, doodles and photographs combines stories of early style inspirations such as her grandpa and the Spice Girls with discussion of figures of obsession like Jane Birkin and Annie Hall, reflecting on heartbreak, how to get dressed in the morning, the challenges of taking a good selfie, and more. Interspersed with pages from Alexa''s notebooks and many a photo of a good night out, It is now perfectly sized for any bag - handbag or otherwise. Witty, charming and with a refreshingly down-to-earth attitude, It is a must-have for anyone who loves fashion, worries about growing up, or loves just about everything Alexa Chung. ''If you love Alexa Chung, buy it. If you are interested in fashion and style, buy it. If you''re after a book full of pretty pictures and inspo, bTrade ReviewIf you love Alexa Chung, buy it. If you are interested in fashion and style, buy it. If you're after a book full of pretty pictures and inspo, buy it * Cosmopolitan *It's a teenage girl's dream come true - an honest insight into one of the world's most copied style ambassadors * Vogue *Alexa Chung's debut book has got us hooked * Marie Claire *

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Book SynopsisA TLS, FINANCIAL TIMES, NEW STATESMAN, GUARDIAN, OBSERVER AND WHITE REVIEW BOOK OF THE YEARFINALIST FOR THE 2021 ANDREW CARNEGIE MEDAL FOR EXCELLENCE IN NONFICTION From award-winning writer Claudia Rankine, the stunning follow-up to Citizen and Don''t Let Me Be Lonely ''Riveting'' Bernardine Evaristo, TLS (Books of the Year)''Brilliant'' Gary Younge, New Statesman (Books of the Year)''Timely and powerful'' Fatima Bhutto, Financial Times''One of our time''s most incisive, brilliant and necessary intellectuals'' Seán Hewitt, Irish Times''Ranking is a writer of genius'' Jeremy Noel-Tod, Sunday TimesAt home and in government, contemporary America finds itself riven by a culture war in which aggression and defensiveness alike are on the rise. It is not alone. In such partisan conditions, how can humans best approach one another across our differences?Taking the study of whiteness and white supremacy as a guiding light, Claudia Rankine explores a series of real encounters with friends and strangers - each disrupting the false comfort of spaces where our public and private lives intersect, like the airport, the theatre, the dinner party and the voting booth - and urges us to enter into the conversations which could offer the only humane pathways through this moment of division.Just Us is an invitation to discover what it takes to stay in the room together, and to breach the silence, guilt and violence that surround whiteness. Brilliantly arranging essays, images and poems along with the voices and rebuttals of others, it counterpoints Rankine''s own text with facing-page notes and commentary, and closes with a bravura study of women confronting the political and cultural implications of dyeing their hair blonde.Wry, vulnerable and prescient, this is Rankine''s most intimate work, less interested in being right than in being true, and being together.Trade ReviewClaudia Rankine marshalls the full range of her substantial talents - from poetry to essay - to explore how racism is lived, privilege is expressed and engagement might be possible. Personal, political, interrogative and, most all, impressive -- Gary YoungeThis brilliant and multi-layered work is a call, a bid, an insistent, rightly impatient demand for a public conversation on whiteness . . . bold and vital -- Judith ButlerIn my work, well-meaning white people consistently ask me how to recognize racism. Yet we might ask, "How have we managed not to know?" The information is everywhere, if we care to listen . . . With clarity and grace, Claudia Rankine delivers a gut punch to white denial. Just Us is stunning work - audacious, revelatory, devastating -- Robin DiAngeloIn Just Us, Claudia Rankine continues her remarkable and brilliant interrogation of the language, culture, and history that have shaped America, forging through poems, essays, and documents a literary archive that is utterly original and desperately needed -- Dinaw MengestuFiercely intimate, rigorous . . . [Just Us] lets all of us in on the conversations - with others and the self - that are necessary for survival -- Nuar Alsadir

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Book Synopsis

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Book SynopsisA guide to the art, history, and politics of visible mending at once a practical instruction guide for techniques, a statement on the beauty of repairing and reimagining clothes, and a manifesto against fast fashion.

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Book SynopsisKinky boots, corsets, underwear as outerwear, second-skin garments of rubber and leather, uniforms, body piercing. Today everything from a fetishist''s dream appears on the fashion runways. Although some people regard fetish fashion as exploitative and misogynistic, others interpret it as a positive Amazonian statement--couture Catwoman. But the connection between fashion and fetishism goes far beyond a few couture collections. For the past thirty years, the iconography of sexual fetishism has been increasingly assimilated into popular culture. Before Michelle Pfeiffer''s Catwoman, there was Mrs. Peel, heroine of the 1960s television show The Avengers, who wore a black leather catsuit modeled on a real fetish costume. Street styles like punk and the gay leatherman look also testify to the influence of fetishism.as interviews with individuals involved in sexual fetishism, sadomasochism, and cross-dressing, to illuminate the complex relationship between appearance and identity. Based on Trade ReviewSteele is to fetish dressing what Anne Rice is to vampires. * Christa Worthington, Elle *

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Book SynopsisBeards-they're all the rage these days. Take a look around: from hip urbanites to rustic outdoorsmen, well-groomed metrosexuals to post-season hockey players, facial hair is everywhere. The New York Times traces this hairy trend to Big Apple hipsters circa 2005 and reports that today some New Yorkers pay thousands of dollars for facial hair transplants to disguise patchy, juvenile beards. And in 2014, blogger Nicki Daniels excoriated bearded hipsters for turning a symbol of manliness and power into a flimsy fashion statement. The beard, she said, has turned into the padded bra of masculinity. Of Beards and Men makes the case that today's bearded renaissance is part of a centuries-long cycle in which facial hairstyles have varied in response to changing ideals of masculinity. Christopher Oldstone-Moore explains that the clean-shaven face has been the default style throughout Western history-see Alexander the Great's beardless face, for example, as the Greek heroic ideal. But the primacy of razors has been challenged over the years by four great bearded movements, beginning with Hadrian in the second century and stretching to today's bristled resurgence. The clean-shaven face today, Oldstone-Moore says, has come to signify a virtuous and sociable man, whereas the beard marks someone as self-reliant and unconventional. History, then, has established specific meanings for facial hair, which both inspire and constrain a man's choices in how he presents himself to the world. This fascinating and erudite history of facial hair cracks the masculine hair code, shedding light on the choices men make as they shape the hair on their faces. Oldstone-Moore adeptly lays to rest common misperceptions about beards and vividly illustrates the connection between grooming, identity, culture, and masculinity. To a surprising degree, we find, the history of men is written on their faces.

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Book SynopsisExplores the history of men's dress in America to consider how capitalism and democracy emerged at the center of social life during the century between the Revolution and the Civil War. This book illuminates the critical links among culture, ideology, political economy, and fashion in antebellum America.Trade Review"A marvelous work of history, imaginatively conceived, scrupulously researched, and gracefully composed." - Jean-Christophe Agnew, Yale University"

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Book SynopsisIn Gods and Kings Dana Thomas, author of Deluxe, tells the story of how John Galliano and Alexander McQueen changed the face of fashionIn the first decade of the 21st century the fashion world was dominated by two different but equally successful and turbulent figures. Within twelve months, Alexander McQueen had committed suicide, and John Galliano had professionally imploded. Who was to blame? And how was fashion changed by their rise and fall? Spanning the 80s, 90s and noughties, Gods and Kings tells the story of these two charismatic figures and times of great change in the world of fashion, from London''s raucous art and club scene to the old-world glamour of Parisian couture, and reveals the machinations of this notoriously secretive industry.Trade ReviewA page-turning tale of fashion's highest flyers * i-D *Fascinating... a well-told story of poetry, art and angst * Tatler *A vivid, arresting account * Evening Standard *More than a delicious read * InStyle *Riveting... [Dana Thomas] is terrific at describing the shock value of their shows * Mail on Sunday *Thomas has spoken to more than 100 fashion insiders to put together a portrait of an era dominated, in her account, by these two uncontrollable and wild talents... Thomas's narrative flits deftly between the "parallel professional journeys" of two men with a similar rebellious streak * Telegraph *Conjures up the particular madness of the fashion treadmill, with its constant quest for newness and the inevitability that a triumph would be followed by a fall * New Statesman *Occasionally titillating and ultimately poignant * T, The New York Times Style Magazine *

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Book SynopsisThe secret diary of Vogue Editor-in-Chief Alexandra Shulman and the real story behind the BBC ABSOLUTELY FASHION documentary.''One of the great social diaries of our time . . . should become a classic.'' Sunday Times''Eye-popping, brilliantly candid'' Evening StandardWhat a year for Vogue! Alexandra Shulman reveals the emotional and logistical minefield of producing the 100th anniversary issue (that Duchess of Cambridge cover surprise), organizing the star-studded Vogue 100 Gala, working with designers from Victoria Beckham to Karl Lagerfeld and contributors from David Bailey to Alexa Chung. All under the continual scrutiny of a television documentary crew.But narrowly-contained domestic chaos hovers - spontaneous combustion in the kitchen, a temperamental boiler and having to send bin day reminders all the way from Milan fashion week. For anyone who wants to know what the life of a fashion magazine ediTrade ReviewOne of the great social diaries of our time . . . should become a classic. * Sunday Times *Eye-popping, brilliantly candid. * Evening Standard *Shulman is particularly good on insightful character sketches . . . she is also happy to reveal occasional flashes of her own character and insecurities. * Sunday Express *Completely compelling . . . fascinating . . . refreshingly unfiltered . . . reminds you what a good writer she is. * GQ *[Shulman] writes surprisingly frankly . . . a funny, pacy book. -- Hadley Freeman * Guardian *Candid, introspective, generous and witty -- Nicky Haslam * Spectator *A delicious surprise of a book . . . [Shulman is] a first rate diarist * Mail on Sunday *A witty corrective to the BBC's rather flaccid documentary . . . Shulman's skill for casual self-deprecation and the unfiltered wry aside offer a far more nuanced insight into the mammoth task of managing brand Vogue. * Financial Times, ‘Best Books of 2016’ *

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Book SynopsisExplores a lost world of women's dominance.Trade Review"Gamber's analysis is careful and nuanced, showing at every point the mixed impact of the processes of change in the lives of tradewomen and their customers. . . . A valuable contribution to women's labor, business, and social history as well as to the emerging history of consumption."--Susan Porter Benson, author of Counter Cultures: Saleswomen, Managers, and Customers in American Department Stores

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Book SynopsisTrade ReviewThis collection of essays is enlightening and fruitful in demonstrating the richness of the scholarship regarding fashion and film, evident in the range of voices and range of conceptual approaches. This would be an invaluable read for scholars and fans of fashion and film costume, as well as for film historians, particularly with an interest in 1960s European film. * Historical Journal of Film, Radio and Television *With a focus on the most turbulent decade of the twentieth century, the collection of essays in Film, Fashion, and the 1960s captures a period profoundly marked by cultural innovation, political activism, and a rising consumer demographic that questioned conventional boundaries and reshaped the urban environment. . . . Film, Fashion, and the 1960s is an important resource that offers an additional perspective on the collaboration between directors and costume designers and may provide inspiration for further discussions. Most importantly, the range of topics illuminated by the analysis of the intermediality of cinema and fashion would appeal to readers interested in the cultural implications of the decade and its emerging trickle up mechanisms that allowed consumers to transform themselves into active participants in the construction of the modern fashion system. -- Alicia Mihalić * The Journal of Dress History *Table of ContentsAcknowledgementsIntroduction / Eugenia Paulicelli and Louise WallenbergPart 1: 1960s: Youth Culture and Sexual Liberation1. Sanitizing the Beatles for Revolution: Music, Film, and Fashion in 1960s A Hard Day's Night / Ronald Gregg2. The Art of Undressing: Automation and Exposure at the Margins of Cinema / Amy Herzog3. Pasolini's Teorema: the Eroticism of the Visitor's Discarded Clothes / Stella Bruzzi4. Rite of Passage: the Hat that Wouldn't Disappear in the 1960s / Drake StutesmanPart 2: Cities, Nations and Fashion5. Fashion Apart: Godard and Fageol in the 1960s Paris / Astrid Söderbergh Widding6. Fashion, Film, Rome / Eugenia Paulicelli7. Contexts, Contradictions, Couture, and Clothing: Fashion in An American in Paris, Breakfast at Tiffany's and A Touch of Mink / Pat Kirkham and Marilyn CohenPart 3: Gender: Modernity/Tradition8. The Fashioning of Julie Christie and the Mythologizing of "Swinging London": Changing Images in Sixties Britain / Pamela Church Gibson9. Women in White: Femininity and Female Desire in 1960s Bombay Cinema / Anupama Kapse10. Mago's Magic: Fashioning Sexual Indifference in Ingmar Bergman's 1960s Cinema / Louise Wallenberg11. Single Men: Sixties Aesthetics and Vintage Style in Contemporary Cinema / Nick Rees-RobertsPart 4: Epilogue12. Adriana Berselli: Costume for Cinema and Theater / Eugenia Paulicelli13. Souvenir of a Costume Designer / Adriana BerselliIndex

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Book SynopsisVeils, Turbans, and Islamic Reform in Northern Nigeria tells the story of Islamic reform from the perspective of dress, textile production, trade, and pilgrimage over the past 200 years.Trade ReviewRenne has written an exciting albeit challenging book. Readers unfamiliar with Nigeria and its complex history may feel overwhelmed at times by the sheer multitude of references to historic events and personalities. This notwithstanding, the book has a great many insights to offer to scholars of religious reform, Islamic dress and northern Nigeria. Everyone with an interest in these topics should read it. -- Hannah Hoechner * Islamic Africa *Table of ContentsAcknowledgments1. Introduction: Material Religion and Islamic Reform in Northern Nigeria 2. Islamic Dress, Textile Production, and Trade in the Time of the Sokoto Caliphate 3. Muslim Identity, Islamic Scholarship, and Cloth Connections in Ilorin 4. The Sardauna's Turbans 5. Veiling, Gender, and Fashion 6. Performing Pilgrimage: Worship and Travel, Textiles and Trade 7. Marks of Progress: Islamic Reform and Industrial Textile Production in Kaduna 8. Failures of Modernity and Islamic Reform: Dress and Deception in Northern Nigeria in the 21st Century9. Epilogue. Moral Imagination, Material Things, and Islamic Reform Glossary Bibliography Index

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