Climbing and mountaineering Books

Book SynopsisIn 1970, Chris Bonington and his now-legendary team of mountaineers were the first climbers to tackle a big wall at extreme altitude. Their target was the south face of Nepal's Annapurna: 12,000 feet of steep rock and ice leading to a 26, 454-ft. summit. As serious armchair climbers will tell you, Annapurna South Face is better than all but a handful of equally gripping classics. One could also argue that all that has happened in the big mountains in the past 30 years has come out of this expedition and out of this book. Bonington and his team--most of whom subsequently died in the mountains--represented a kind of "greatest generation" of modern mountaineers. They pioneered a new, bolder approach to high altitude climbing, and this book is about how they hit the big time.

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Book SynopsisA monumental book - I defy anyone to read it and remain unmoved. – Stephen Venables, Alpine Journal. Acclaimed as one of the most powerful accounts of mountain adventure and tragedy ever written, The Endless Knot is a harrowing account of the 1986 K2 disaster. A rare first-hand account from a survivor at the very epicentre of the drama, The Endless Knot describes the disaster in frank detail. Kurt Diemberger's account of the final days of success, accident, storm and escape during which five climbers died, including his partner Julie Tullis and the great British mountaineer Al Rouse, is lacerating in its sense of tragedy, loss and dogged survival. Only Diemberger and Willi Bauer escaped the mountain. K2 had claimed the lives of 13 climbers that summer. Kurt Diemberger is one of only two climbers to have made first ascents of two 8000-metre peaks, Broad Peak and Dhaulagiri. A superb mountaineer, the K2 trauma left him physically and emotionally ravaged, but it also marked him out as an instinctive and tenacious survivor. After a long period of recovery Diemberger published The Endless Knot and resumed life as a mountaineer, filmmaker and international lecturer.Trade ReviewA monumental book - I defy anyone to read it and remain unmoved. – Stephen Venables, Alpine Journal.Table of ContentsIntroduction. 1- The lonely Mountain. 2- The boat. 3- Dream Mountain – K2 from the North. 4- England – Tunbridge Wells. 5- Italy – Bologna. 6- Raid on Broad Peak. 7- Tashigang – Place of Happiness. 8- Jinlab – The Magic of the Mountains. 9- The Village on the Moraine. 10- Threats Post to Health by High Altitude. 11- Success and Tragedy – Russian Roulette. 12- Julie has Doubts. 13- The Ice Avalanche and the Riddle of the Teapot. 14- The Decision – We Go Together. 15- Pushing to Great Heights. 16- The Korean Tent. 17- The Key Factor – A Tent. 18- The Lost Day. 19- The Summit – Our Dreams Come True. 20- The Fall. 21- Down to 8,000 Metres. 23- Flight from the Death Zone. 24- Where is Mrufka? 25- Perpetuum Mobile. 26- Clouds from Both Sides.

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Book Synopsis‘If I could choose a place to die, it would be in the mountains.’Clouds from Both Sides is the autobiography of Julie Tullis, the first British woman to climb an 8,000-metre peak – Broad Peak – and the first to reach the summit of K2, the world’s second-highest mountain. A truly remarkable woman, Julie describes her early days in a London disrupted by World War II; her family life, climbing, teaching and living by the sandstone outcrops of High Rocks and Harrison’s Rocks in Tunbridge Wells, Kent; and her experience as a high-level mountaineer and filmmaker. Tullis demonstrates her determination and self-discipline through training to black-belt standard in both judo and aikido, and never allows financial concerns to keep her away from the high mountains – a place where she felt at peace. Filled with vivid accounts of frostbite, avalanches, snow blindness and exhilaration alongside her climbing partner Kurt Diemberger, Clouds from Both Sides takes us to Yosemite, Nanga Parbat, Everest and K2. First published in 1986 before her death, and with an additional chapter written by Peter Gillman documenting Tullis’s final, fated expedition to K2, this story is as relevant and awe inspiring today as it ever was. Tullis’s achievements are timeless and her attitudes and opinions far ahead of their time. Clouds from Both Sides is a tribute to the memory of an inspirational woman determined to strive for her dreams, an extraordinary account of her adventures and an exhilarating testament to her courage.Trade Review'Remarkable ... her book serves as a moving and prescient epitaph.' (Sunday Telegraph).Table of ContentsINTRODUCTION: `I’ve looked at clouds from both sides now’; CHAPTER 1: First Steps; CHAPTER 2: `From win and lose and still somehow … ’; CHAPTER 3: World’s End to a New Horizon; CHAPTER 4: Harrison’s and Handicaps; CHAPTER 5: A Question of Fate; CHAPTER 6: Legless in Peru; CHAPTER 7: Graduation by Bicycle and Eine Kleine Nachtmusik; CHAPTER 8: Sun Dance in Yosemite; CHAPTER 9: French Lessons – Bewitched by Nanga Parbat; CHAPTER 10: The Correct Exposure; CHAPTER 11: Ciao to China – Explorations in Sinkiang; CHAPTER 12: K2: The Mountain of Mountains; CHAPTER 13: Why?; CHAPTER 14: Both Sides of the Avalanche – K2 and a Summit; CHAPTER 15: Keeping Fit; CHAPTER 16: Everest from Five Directions; CHAPTER 17: Nanga Parbat – To Be or Not To Be?; CHAPTER 18: The Final Summit; COMPARATIVE CLIMBING GRADES; ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS.

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Book SynopsisJohn Gill: Master of Rock is a captivating look into the life, achievements and ethos of boulderer John Gill. This new edition of the classic title is complete with photographs, personal impressions of Gill from climbers such as Yvon Chouinard, and an enlightening interview with Gill himself.Hailed the father of modern bouldering, John Gill is an awe-inspiring climber with enigmatic talent. His techniques have been likened to poetry and are almost ‘spiritual’ in nature. Famous for his dynamic approach to bouldering and his impressive physical accomplishments, such as the one-arm front lever, Gill is an inspiration to climbers around the world.Written by Gill’s friend and fellow climber, Pat Ament, John Gill: Master of Rock pays homage to this influence. Delving deeply into not only the fascinating life of Gill, but the very raw essence of what it means to boulder, this intimate biography is both intriguing and informative.'Bouldering is the poetry of mountaineering … As with good poetry, good bouldering comes from within. It is derived from an inner eye, then refined.'At its core, John Gill: Master of Rock illustrates the humbling relationship between Gill and those who admire him – as Ament details first-hand, Gill is never egotistical, nor elitist; instead he is approachable, passionate and refreshingly independent.This staple climbing read is a real must-have for those with an interest in pioneers of the bouldering scene. The exploits and adventures contained within will appeal to devotees of the sport and to anyone seeking insight into the triumphs of a master.Table of ContentsIntroduction. 1 - The Thimble. 2 - A Face in a Photograph. 3 - A Profiled Position. 4 - The Poetry of Mountaineering. 5 - The Juggernaut . 6 - Deliberating Poses. 7 - Whispers of a Legend. 8 - A Pair of Long Legs by Dave Rearic. 9 - That Morning by Paul Mayrose. 10 - Zen and the Art of Rock Climbing by Yvon Chouinard. 11 - A Visit to Red Cross Rock by Jim Erickson. 12 - Credence by Steve Wunsch. 13 - Miscellaneous Interchange. 14 - A Chat with John Gill .

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Book Synopsis'As I studied the maps, one thing about them captured my imagination - Across this blank space was written one challenging word, "Unexplored"' In 1937 two of the twentieth century's greatest explorers set off to explore an unknown area of the Himalaya, the breath-taking Shaksgam mountains. With a team of surveyors and Sherpas, Eric Shipton and H.W. Tilman located and mapped the land around K2, the second-highest mountain in the world. It was their greatest venture, and one that paved the way for all future mountaineering in that area of the Himalaya. For Shipton and Tilman, exploration was everything, with a summit a welcome bonus, and Blank on the Map is the book that best captures their spirit of adventure.With an observant eye and keen sense of humour, Shipton tells how the expedition entered the unknown Shaksgam mountains, crossing impenetrable gorges, huge rivers and endless snow fields. There's a very human element to Shipton's dealings with his Sherpa friends, and with his Balti porters, some of whom were helpful, while some were less so. The expedition uncovers traces of ancient cultures and visits vibrant modern civilisations living during the last days of the British Empire. Only when all supplies are exhausted, their clothes in tatters and all equipment lost do the men finally return home. A mountain exploration classic.

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Book Synopsis'When a man is conscious of the urge to explore, not all the arduous journeyings, the troubles that will beset him and the lack of material gains from his investigations will stop him.' Nanda Devi is one of the most inaccessible mountains in the Himalaya. It is surrounded by a huge ring of peaks, among them some of the highest mountains in the Indian Himalaya. For fifty years the finest mountaineers of the early twentieth century had repeatedly tried and failed to reach the foot of the mountain. Then, in 1934, Eric Shipton and H. W. Tilman found a way in. Their 1934 expedition is regarded as the epitome of adventurous mountain exploration. With their three tough and enthusiastic Sherpa companions Angtharkay, Kusang and Pasang, they solved the problem of access to the Nanda Devi Sanctuary. They crossed difficult cols, made first ascents and explored remote, uninhabited valleys, all of which is recounted in Shipton's wonderfully vivid Nanda Devi - a true evocation of Shipton's enduring spirit of adventure and one of the most inspirational travel books ever written.

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Book SynopsisThe Evidence of Things Not Seen is the autobiography of remarkable mountaineer, writer and environmentalist W.H. Murray. After being introduced to climbing in his early twenties, Murray’s relationship with the outdoors was shaped as much by his time on the mountains as away from them. His early Scottish climbs were brought to a halt by the Second World War, which saw him spend three years as a Nazi prisoner of war. These years were devoted to not only to philosophical study, but also to writing his classic Mountaineering in Scotland not once, but twice, on toilet paper.The time to write about mountains only fuelled Murray’s enthusiasm to climb them. The regeneration in mountaineering that followed the war saw Murray complete three Himalayan expeditions, alongside other iconic figures such as Doug Scott, Tom MacKinnon and Tom Weir, and Eric Shipton. He not only explored Himalayan peaks never before attempted by westerners, but also established the crucial Khumbu Icefall route up Everest, which paved the way for the mountain’s first ascent in 1953.Later life saw Murray return to Scotland and begin the fight to conserve the wild places that motivated him. From pioneering the John Muir Trust to fighting threats to forestry, Murray’s writing is laced with a philosophical edge and a contagious appreciation for Scotland’s wild places, capturing the essence of why Murray’s work has been inspiring readers for decades. Written just before his death in 1996, and with a foreword by renowned Scottish mountaineer Hamish MacInnes, The Evidence of Things Not Seen is a must-read for anyone for which the mountains are still a source of wonder.Trade ReviewA big, quiet book that resonated beyond the clamour of ego and conquest. – Dermot Somers, Judge, Banff Mountain Festival of Literature and Culture. This autobiography captures the huge scope of Murray's extraordinary life - I'd wager that many climbers under thirty have read little of Murray, seeing him as a remote figure from the past. This book has changed all that and made him relevant and current. – Ed Douglas, Climber Magazine. Would it live up to expectations? The answer is a resounding yes. Murray's words of optimism, insight and humility flow from each page, No inflated ego, no cynicism, no backbiting - and no false modesty either. – Jim Curran, High. Through the concise and page-turning war days we learn that the author spent two years scribing Mountaineering in Scotland on toilet paper. The Gestapo found the then manuscript, interrogated Murray and then destroyed it, believing it was coded intelligence information. Over the next two years Murray describes how he forced himself to rewrite the book. – Jonathan Waterman, American Alpine Journal. Bill Murray married a poet and the poetic sensibility which so often gives his work its depth is on display here. Its prose enhanced by pages of sumptuous photographs, valuable artefacts of climbing history in themselves, The Evidence of Things Not Seen is the memorial Murray deserves. Like a Highland sunset, his talent flared in glory one final time. – David Rose, The Guardian.Table of ContentsCONTENTS Foreword by Hamish MacInnes Introductory Note Early Years 1 Twists of the Thread 2 Siren Song Pre-War Climbing in Scotland 3 Rocks and Climbers 4 Renaissance: 1930s 5 The Winter Ascent of Garrick’s Shelf Fortunes of War 6 The Home Front 7 North Africa 8 To Iraq and Cyprus 9 The Battle of the Cauldron Incarceration 10 Stone Walls: Chieti 11 To Bavaria and Bohemia 12 Brunswick The Post-War World 13 Home 14 The Right Holds 15 Freedom – Decisions to Make 16 First Steps 17 The Alps: Highs and Lows First Expeditions to the Himalaya 18 Introduction to the Garhwal 19 To the Rishi Gorge 20 Attempts on Bethartoli Himal and Hunaman 21 Mountaineering and Medicine in Dunagiri 22 The Ascent of Uja Tirche and an attempt on Lampak South 23 Through the Girthi Gorge to Milam 24 The Ralam Pass and Panch Chuli 25 Untrodden Ranges: Around Menlungste and Gaurisankar Exploring the Api Massif 26 Approach to Api: The Kali Gorge 27 Api and Nampa 28 Yokapahar Himal – Warnings 29 Tibet – Into Chinese Held Territory 30 The Seti Gorge 31 A Meeting with the Rajah of Bajhang Everest and the Muztagh Tower 32 Everest and the Muztagh Tower: the seemingly impossible overcome Concerns Closer to Home 33 Return to Scotland 34 The Cragsmen of Lewis 35 The Life of Ben Humble – Tribute to a Fighter 36 A Writer’s World 37 Conservation 38 Tomorrow Epilogue Appendices I Murray’s Books, Plays and Articles II Sundry Correspondence III Writing about Climbing and Mountain Landscape IV The Rob Roy Affair V Publishing and the Practicalities of the Writing Business Photographs, Maps and Illustrations

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Book SynopsisA Rich and Compelling History of Mountaineering ...At Your Fingertips. High Summits is the result of over 30 years of research into the fascinating world of international mountaineering. An essential guide to mountaineering history, this year-by-year account spans all seven continents and dates from 450 B.C. through 2011. In it you'll find everything from the monumental to the hard-to-find-trivia including: * The most significant 370 Peak First Ascents as well as over 600 other types of first ascents on mountain faces and ridges. * 345 detailed listings of major advancements in mountaineering gear, clothing, and climbing equipment. * 171 references to the development of various climbing techniques on snow, rock, and ice. * 58 hand-drawn maps and 57 carefully chosen photographs to accompany over 2,800 climbing events around the world. * Appendices that include 17 unique mountain summit collections and the author's ten most significant events in mountaineering history. Taken from expedition accounts, biographies and autobiographies, climbing journals and diaries, mountaineering museums, magazines and newspapers, films, documentaries, newsletters, and interviews, High Summits is one of the most comprehensive studies of its kind. A must-have reference book for anyone interested in mountaineering, from the aficionado and weekend climber, to anyone who just likes to read about the majesty and allure of climbing the most significant peaks in the world. "Wolfe's meticulous compilation of this much mountaineering history and lore into one volume is simply a stunning achievement that makes for an invaluable reference as well as an entertaining read." Walter R. Borneman. Historian and co-author of 100 Years Up High: Colorado Mountains and Mountaineers Fred Wolfe's exhaustive research teases out the details of mountaineering's entire, worldwide history. High Summits is a reference I will always keep handy." Phil Powers, Executive Director, American Alpine Club

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