Description

Book Synopsis
The story of cuisine and the social history of eating is a fascinating one, and Maguelonne Toussaint-Samat covers all its aspects in this classic history.

Trade Review
"This book should be in all libraries where history and food are a concern. It gives information that is not available anywhere else. It is well written and fascinating reading." (American Reference Books Annual, 2010)

"A History of Food is a concise yet massively entertaining read that looks at the earliest hunter-gatherer societies and moves on to bring readers right up to the modern day. … It goes quite well with a cup of tea and a biscuit, and dipping in anywhere will uncover something delicious." (Heritage Key, December 2009)

"The reader will be amazed and fascinated by the dizzying array of details about various foods in this 700-page tome." (Choice Reviews, May 2009)

"Classic text … .[Brought] up to date by including 'the latest scientific and technological discoveries' regarding the food we eat." (Contemporary Review, 2009)

"This densely informed history ranges from the first bread loaves to the low-down on cauliflowers. Fab for food geeks, it's one to dip into rather than devour in one go." (Metro, December 2008)

"The second edition of this dense tome is perfect for the historian on your list." (San Francisco Chronicle, December 2008)

"This densely informed history ranges from the first bread loaves to the lowdown on cauliflowers. Fab for food geeks, it's one to dip into rather than devour in one go." (Metro Food Books of the Year, December 2008)

"A fascinating study that starts with the era when we are all still living in trees. Scrupulously thorough and pleasingly idiosyncratic, it promises the reader many a happy hour blissfully contemplating our ancient relationship with our stomachs. And that’s as much as you can ask from any food book." (Independent, November 2008)

"Forceful and challenging … A powerful, compelling and readable case against biblical literalism and fundamentalism." (Times Higher Education, November 2008)

"Encyclopaedic in scope, the result is never dull … You will find it, I guarantee, unfailingly witty and comprehensively rewarding." (The Glasgow Herald, November 2008)

"Scrupulously thorough and pleasingly idiosyncratic, it promises the reader many a happy hour blissfully contemplating our ancient relationship with our stomachs. And that's as much as you can ask from any food book." (The Independent, November 2008)

"A fascinating, enormously impressive work which will delight not just the foodie but anyone in social history." (Tribune, November 2008)

"Toussaint Samat presents not just the historical background but the cultural, religious and social impact of food. Extensively researched with quotations from a wide array of historical sources … .Some areas receive more intense scrutiny—wine for example … .A useful source for students or researchers as a strong first reference point and for anyone with a dedicated interest in food history. Recommended for larger public and academic libraries." (Library Journal, November 2008)

"First published in France in 1987, the second edition of this dense tome is perfect for the historian on your list. It explores the 10,000-year-old relationship between humans and food, including facts about foie gras, the history of olive oil and the symbolism of poultry." (San Francisco Chronicle, November 2008)

"A fascinating study that starts with the era when we were still living in trees (yes, really). Scrupulously thorough and pleasingly idiosyncratic, it promises the reader many a happy hour blissfully contemplating our ancient relationship with our stomachs. And that's as much as you can ask from any food book." (The Independent on Sunday, November 2008)

"A fascinating, enormously impressive work which will delight not just the foodie but anyone interested in social history." (Tribune, November 2008)

"This excellent guide is an exploration of man's relationship with food from the discovery of fire onwards." (The Independent, October 2008)

"This book should be republished and re-titled THE History of Food. It's probably the most remarkable book on the subject I have ever had the pleasure of reading." (Mostly Food Journal, October 2008)

Praise for the First Edition:

"Indispensable, and an endlessly fascinating book. The view is staggering. Not a book to digest at one or several sittings. Savor it instead, one small slice at a time, accompanied by a very fine wine." (New York Times)

"This book is not only impressive for the knowledge it provides, it is unique in its integration of historical anecdotes and factual data. It is a marvellous reference to a great many topics." (Raymond Blanc, Restaurateur Writer)

"Quirky, encyclopaedic, and hugely entertaining. A delight." (Sunday Telegraph)

"It's the best book when you are looking for very clear but interesting stories. Everything is cross-referenced to an extraordinary degree, which is great because the information given is so complex and interweaving." (The Independent)

"A History of Food is a monumental work, a prodigious feat of careful scholarship, patient research and attention to detail. Full of astonishing but insufficiently known facts." (Times Higher Education Supplement)



Table of Contents

Foreword to the New Expanded Edition by Betty Fussell xiii

Preface xv

List of Illustrations xvi

Acknowledgements xix

Introduction 1

Part I: Collecting Gathering Hunting 9
From Fire to the Pot

1 Collecting Honey 14

Honey in the Golden Age 14

A Taste of Honey 16

Honey in Legend 18

Honey in Nature and History 21

Honey-Cakes, Spice-Bread, Gingerbread 28

Mead and Sacramental Intoxication 30

2 The History of Gathering 35

The Ancient Pulses 35

The Symbolism of Beans 40

The Etymology (and Entomology) of Haricot Beans 41

The Holy War of Cassoulet 45

Soya: the Most Widely Eaten Plant in the World 46

Soya: Nutritional Facts and Figures 50

Mushrooms and Fungi 50

Roots 57

Table of Vegetable Nutrition 65

3 Hunting 66

The Great Days and the Decline of Game 66

Nutritional Facts and Figures about Game 79

Part II: Stock-breeding Arable Farming: Meat, Milk, Cereals 83
The Evidence of Occupied Sites

4 The History of Meat 85

The Birth of Stock-breeding and Society 85

Table of Areas of Origin of the First Domestic Animals 88

Meat-Eating: Likes and Dislikes 89

The Horse, the Spirit of Corn 95

Fat Oxen and Prosperous Butchers 95

5 The History of Dairy Produce 103

Cheese and Curds 103

Yoghurt: Fermented Milk 108

Butter: the Cream of the Milk 109

The Symbolism of Butter 113

6 The History of Cereals 114

Cereals as Civilizers 114

The Symbolism of Wheat 117

Table of the Long March of Cereals 118

Imperialist Cereals 119

The Myth of Demeter 126

Everyday Cereals 127

Harvest Festivals 133

Strategic Cereals 134

Rice in the East 139

The Symbolism of Rice 149

Maize in the West 149

Why Maize is Called ‘I Have No More Gumbo’ 159

Why Corn-Cobs are Thin and Small 160

Zuni Legend of Maize Flour 160

From Porridge to Beer 161

The Technique of Brewing Beer 167

The History of Pasta 170

The History of Grain Spirits 176

Part III: The Three Sacramental Foods: Oil, Bread, Wine 183
The Fundamental Trinity

7 The History of Oil 185

Olive Oil 185

The Dietary History of Olive Oil 187

Olive Oil in Legend and Symbolism 191

Making Olive Oil 193

Other Oils 196

Margarine 199

8 The History of Bread and Cakes 201

The Bread on the Board 201

The Symbolism of Bread and Cakes 207

Four Stages in the Development of Bread-Making 209

The Taste of Bread 210

The Technique of Bread-Making 214

Our Daily Bread 215

Special Cakes for Sundays 218

9 The History of Wine 223

From the Vine to Wine 223

Dessert Grapes 230

The Technique of Wine-Making 231

The Symbolism of Wine 233

The Legend of Dionysus 235

The Proper Use of Wine 236

Cooking with Wine 249

Wine and God 251

A Wine of Revolution 258

Part IV: The Economy of the Markets 265
The Centre of the City

10 The History of Fish 268

The Fish of the Ancient World 268

A Who’s Who of Sea Fish 272

The Salmonidae: a family of aristocrats 273

Fishing in Legend 277

Extravagance and Economy in Eating Fish 277

The Symbolism of Fish 281

Uses for Less Profitable Fish 284

The Providential Nature of Salt Fish 287

Drying, Salting and Smoking Fish; an Age-Old Procedure 293

Table of the Nutritional values of Fish 294

Aquaculture and Pisciculture: Fish Farming 294

Blue Europe, or the Common Fish Market 298

From Fishing to Our Plates 301

Table of the Economic and Social Potential of a Common Fishing Zone 302

11 The History of Poultry 305

Facts about Poultry 305

Choosing Poultry 312

The Symbolism of Poultry 319

Eggs: their Uses and Customs 322

Part V: Luxury Foods 333
The Revels of the Gauls

12 Treasures from the Sea 338

The History of Garum 338

The History of Caviare 339

A Who’s Who of caviare 345

How to Keep Caviare Happy 347

The History of Shellfish and Crustaceans 348

Facts about Crustaceans 356

The History of Shellfish-Farming 359

The Biology of the Oyster 366

The Biology of the Mussel 368

13 The Treasure of the Forests 369

The History of Pork and Charcuterie 369

About Ham 378

Sausages 381

The Symbolism of the Pig 384

The History of Foie Gras 385

Facts about Foie Gras 392

The Symbolism of Liver 393

The History of Truffles 394

Part VI: The Era of the Merchants 403
Making a Good Profit

14 An Essential Food 414

The History of Salt 414

The Symbolism of Salt 429

The Technique of Winning Salt 430

15 Spice At Any Price 433

About Spices 433

The Secrets of Spices 437

Cinnamon 439

Pepper 441

Ginger 446

Turmeric and Cardamom 450

Cloves 453

The Great Trading Companies 458

Nutmeg and Mace 461

Chillies and Sweet Peppers 464

Aromatics and the Imagination 467

Saffron 467

Vanilla 471

Everyday Condiments and Herbs 473

Herbs 478

The Proper Use of Spices, Aromatics and Condiments 481

The Grocer’s Trade 488

Part VII: New Needs: Sugar, Chocolate, Coffee, Tea 493
Gluttony and Greed for Gain

16 The Lure of Sugar 496

Rum, A Sugar Spirit 504

The Legend of Sugar 505

17 Confectionery and Preserves 507

18 Chocolate and Divinity 515

Definitions of Chocolate 519

19 Coffee and Politics 521

Coffee from the Islands 530

Coffee in Legend 532

20 Tea and Philosophy 535

Tea in Legend 543

The Symbolism of Tea 544

Part VIII: Orchards and Kitchen Gardens 547
Instructions for the Garden

21 The Tradition of Fruits 558

The Symbolism of the Apple 558

Grafting 561

Dessert Apples 562

Table of Production of Apples in EC Countries, 1982–3 564

Cider and Calvados 567

Pears 572

Plums 575

Peaches 578

The Peach in Legend 581

Apricots 582

The Dietetics of Apricots 584

Cherries 584

The Dietetics of Cherries 585

Strawberries 586

Melons 590

Oranges 593

Growing and Selling Oranges 600

A Who’s Who of Oranges 602

Grapefruit 602

Figs 603

The Symbolism of Figs and The Fig Tree 607

Dates 607

Pineapples 609

Bananas 610

Avocados 612

22 The Evolution of Vegetables 620

Cabbages 622

Cauliflowers 625

Salad 626

Chicory and Endive 629

Watercress 630

Asparagus 631

Growing Asparagus 633

Artichokes 636

Tomatoes 637

23 The Potato Revolution 641

Sweet Chestnuts 645

Potatoes 646

Soufflé Potatoes 653

Part IX: Science and Conscience in the Diet 659
The Hows and Whys of Quality

24 Preserving by Heat 662

Canned Sardines 668

The Technique of Canning 670

Food Preservation 671

Pasteurized Milk 673

25 Preserving by Cold 675

Quick-Freezing 677

26 The Reassurance of Dietetics 680

Vitamins 683

Chronology of Dietary Progress 684

27 A Reassuring Future 690

Notes 706

Select Bibliography of Recent English-Language Works 723

Bibliography to Original Edition 729

Index 733

A History of Food

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    A Hardback by Maguelonne Toussaint-Samat

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      Trusted by thousands of customers. See 2,385+ Customer Reviews

      View other formats and editions of A History of Food by Maguelonne Toussaint-Samat

      Publisher: John Wiley and Sons Ltd
      Publication Date: 17/10/2008
      ISBN13: 9781405181198, 978-1405181198
      ISBN10: 1405181192

      Description

      Book Synopsis
      The story of cuisine and the social history of eating is a fascinating one, and Maguelonne Toussaint-Samat covers all its aspects in this classic history.

      Trade Review
      "This book should be in all libraries where history and food are a concern. It gives information that is not available anywhere else. It is well written and fascinating reading." (American Reference Books Annual, 2010)

      "A History of Food is a concise yet massively entertaining read that looks at the earliest hunter-gatherer societies and moves on to bring readers right up to the modern day. … It goes quite well with a cup of tea and a biscuit, and dipping in anywhere will uncover something delicious." (Heritage Key, December 2009)

      "The reader will be amazed and fascinated by the dizzying array of details about various foods in this 700-page tome." (Choice Reviews, May 2009)

      "Classic text … .[Brought] up to date by including 'the latest scientific and technological discoveries' regarding the food we eat." (Contemporary Review, 2009)

      "This densely informed history ranges from the first bread loaves to the low-down on cauliflowers. Fab for food geeks, it's one to dip into rather than devour in one go." (Metro, December 2008)

      "The second edition of this dense tome is perfect for the historian on your list." (San Francisco Chronicle, December 2008)

      "This densely informed history ranges from the first bread loaves to the lowdown on cauliflowers. Fab for food geeks, it's one to dip into rather than devour in one go." (Metro Food Books of the Year, December 2008)

      "A fascinating study that starts with the era when we are all still living in trees. Scrupulously thorough and pleasingly idiosyncratic, it promises the reader many a happy hour blissfully contemplating our ancient relationship with our stomachs. And that’s as much as you can ask from any food book." (Independent, November 2008)

      "Forceful and challenging … A powerful, compelling and readable case against biblical literalism and fundamentalism." (Times Higher Education, November 2008)

      "Encyclopaedic in scope, the result is never dull … You will find it, I guarantee, unfailingly witty and comprehensively rewarding." (The Glasgow Herald, November 2008)

      "Scrupulously thorough and pleasingly idiosyncratic, it promises the reader many a happy hour blissfully contemplating our ancient relationship with our stomachs. And that's as much as you can ask from any food book." (The Independent, November 2008)

      "A fascinating, enormously impressive work which will delight not just the foodie but anyone in social history." (Tribune, November 2008)

      "Toussaint Samat presents not just the historical background but the cultural, religious and social impact of food. Extensively researched with quotations from a wide array of historical sources … .Some areas receive more intense scrutiny—wine for example … .A useful source for students or researchers as a strong first reference point and for anyone with a dedicated interest in food history. Recommended for larger public and academic libraries." (Library Journal, November 2008)

      "First published in France in 1987, the second edition of this dense tome is perfect for the historian on your list. It explores the 10,000-year-old relationship between humans and food, including facts about foie gras, the history of olive oil and the symbolism of poultry." (San Francisco Chronicle, November 2008)

      "A fascinating study that starts with the era when we were still living in trees (yes, really). Scrupulously thorough and pleasingly idiosyncratic, it promises the reader many a happy hour blissfully contemplating our ancient relationship with our stomachs. And that's as much as you can ask from any food book." (The Independent on Sunday, November 2008)

      "A fascinating, enormously impressive work which will delight not just the foodie but anyone interested in social history." (Tribune, November 2008)

      "This excellent guide is an exploration of man's relationship with food from the discovery of fire onwards." (The Independent, October 2008)

      "This book should be republished and re-titled THE History of Food. It's probably the most remarkable book on the subject I have ever had the pleasure of reading." (Mostly Food Journal, October 2008)

      Praise for the First Edition:

      "Indispensable, and an endlessly fascinating book. The view is staggering. Not a book to digest at one or several sittings. Savor it instead, one small slice at a time, accompanied by a very fine wine." (New York Times)

      "This book is not only impressive for the knowledge it provides, it is unique in its integration of historical anecdotes and factual data. It is a marvellous reference to a great many topics." (Raymond Blanc, Restaurateur Writer)

      "Quirky, encyclopaedic, and hugely entertaining. A delight." (Sunday Telegraph)

      "It's the best book when you are looking for very clear but interesting stories. Everything is cross-referenced to an extraordinary degree, which is great because the information given is so complex and interweaving." (The Independent)

      "A History of Food is a monumental work, a prodigious feat of careful scholarship, patient research and attention to detail. Full of astonishing but insufficiently known facts." (Times Higher Education Supplement)



      Table of Contents

      Foreword to the New Expanded Edition by Betty Fussell xiii

      Preface xv

      List of Illustrations xvi

      Acknowledgements xix

      Introduction 1

      Part I: Collecting Gathering Hunting 9
      From Fire to the Pot

      1 Collecting Honey 14

      Honey in the Golden Age 14

      A Taste of Honey 16

      Honey in Legend 18

      Honey in Nature and History 21

      Honey-Cakes, Spice-Bread, Gingerbread 28

      Mead and Sacramental Intoxication 30

      2 The History of Gathering 35

      The Ancient Pulses 35

      The Symbolism of Beans 40

      The Etymology (and Entomology) of Haricot Beans 41

      The Holy War of Cassoulet 45

      Soya: the Most Widely Eaten Plant in the World 46

      Soya: Nutritional Facts and Figures 50

      Mushrooms and Fungi 50

      Roots 57

      Table of Vegetable Nutrition 65

      3 Hunting 66

      The Great Days and the Decline of Game 66

      Nutritional Facts and Figures about Game 79

      Part II: Stock-breeding Arable Farming: Meat, Milk, Cereals 83
      The Evidence of Occupied Sites

      4 The History of Meat 85

      The Birth of Stock-breeding and Society 85

      Table of Areas of Origin of the First Domestic Animals 88

      Meat-Eating: Likes and Dislikes 89

      The Horse, the Spirit of Corn 95

      Fat Oxen and Prosperous Butchers 95

      5 The History of Dairy Produce 103

      Cheese and Curds 103

      Yoghurt: Fermented Milk 108

      Butter: the Cream of the Milk 109

      The Symbolism of Butter 113

      6 The History of Cereals 114

      Cereals as Civilizers 114

      The Symbolism of Wheat 117

      Table of the Long March of Cereals 118

      Imperialist Cereals 119

      The Myth of Demeter 126

      Everyday Cereals 127

      Harvest Festivals 133

      Strategic Cereals 134

      Rice in the East 139

      The Symbolism of Rice 149

      Maize in the West 149

      Why Maize is Called ‘I Have No More Gumbo’ 159

      Why Corn-Cobs are Thin and Small 160

      Zuni Legend of Maize Flour 160

      From Porridge to Beer 161

      The Technique of Brewing Beer 167

      The History of Pasta 170

      The History of Grain Spirits 176

      Part III: The Three Sacramental Foods: Oil, Bread, Wine 183
      The Fundamental Trinity

      7 The History of Oil 185

      Olive Oil 185

      The Dietary History of Olive Oil 187

      Olive Oil in Legend and Symbolism 191

      Making Olive Oil 193

      Other Oils 196

      Margarine 199

      8 The History of Bread and Cakes 201

      The Bread on the Board 201

      The Symbolism of Bread and Cakes 207

      Four Stages in the Development of Bread-Making 209

      The Taste of Bread 210

      The Technique of Bread-Making 214

      Our Daily Bread 215

      Special Cakes for Sundays 218

      9 The History of Wine 223

      From the Vine to Wine 223

      Dessert Grapes 230

      The Technique of Wine-Making 231

      The Symbolism of Wine 233

      The Legend of Dionysus 235

      The Proper Use of Wine 236

      Cooking with Wine 249

      Wine and God 251

      A Wine of Revolution 258

      Part IV: The Economy of the Markets 265
      The Centre of the City

      10 The History of Fish 268

      The Fish of the Ancient World 268

      A Who’s Who of Sea Fish 272

      The Salmonidae: a family of aristocrats 273

      Fishing in Legend 277

      Extravagance and Economy in Eating Fish 277

      The Symbolism of Fish 281

      Uses for Less Profitable Fish 284

      The Providential Nature of Salt Fish 287

      Drying, Salting and Smoking Fish; an Age-Old Procedure 293

      Table of the Nutritional values of Fish 294

      Aquaculture and Pisciculture: Fish Farming 294

      Blue Europe, or the Common Fish Market 298

      From Fishing to Our Plates 301

      Table of the Economic and Social Potential of a Common Fishing Zone 302

      11 The History of Poultry 305

      Facts about Poultry 305

      Choosing Poultry 312

      The Symbolism of Poultry 319

      Eggs: their Uses and Customs 322

      Part V: Luxury Foods 333
      The Revels of the Gauls

      12 Treasures from the Sea 338

      The History of Garum 338

      The History of Caviare 339

      A Who’s Who of caviare 345

      How to Keep Caviare Happy 347

      The History of Shellfish and Crustaceans 348

      Facts about Crustaceans 356

      The History of Shellfish-Farming 359

      The Biology of the Oyster 366

      The Biology of the Mussel 368

      13 The Treasure of the Forests 369

      The History of Pork and Charcuterie 369

      About Ham 378

      Sausages 381

      The Symbolism of the Pig 384

      The History of Foie Gras 385

      Facts about Foie Gras 392

      The Symbolism of Liver 393

      The History of Truffles 394

      Part VI: The Era of the Merchants 403
      Making a Good Profit

      14 An Essential Food 414

      The History of Salt 414

      The Symbolism of Salt 429

      The Technique of Winning Salt 430

      15 Spice At Any Price 433

      About Spices 433

      The Secrets of Spices 437

      Cinnamon 439

      Pepper 441

      Ginger 446

      Turmeric and Cardamom 450

      Cloves 453

      The Great Trading Companies 458

      Nutmeg and Mace 461

      Chillies and Sweet Peppers 464

      Aromatics and the Imagination 467

      Saffron 467

      Vanilla 471

      Everyday Condiments and Herbs 473

      Herbs 478

      The Proper Use of Spices, Aromatics and Condiments 481

      The Grocer’s Trade 488

      Part VII: New Needs: Sugar, Chocolate, Coffee, Tea 493
      Gluttony and Greed for Gain

      16 The Lure of Sugar 496

      Rum, A Sugar Spirit 504

      The Legend of Sugar 505

      17 Confectionery and Preserves 507

      18 Chocolate and Divinity 515

      Definitions of Chocolate 519

      19 Coffee and Politics 521

      Coffee from the Islands 530

      Coffee in Legend 532

      20 Tea and Philosophy 535

      Tea in Legend 543

      The Symbolism of Tea 544

      Part VIII: Orchards and Kitchen Gardens 547
      Instructions for the Garden

      21 The Tradition of Fruits 558

      The Symbolism of the Apple 558

      Grafting 561

      Dessert Apples 562

      Table of Production of Apples in EC Countries, 1982–3 564

      Cider and Calvados 567

      Pears 572

      Plums 575

      Peaches 578

      The Peach in Legend 581

      Apricots 582

      The Dietetics of Apricots 584

      Cherries 584

      The Dietetics of Cherries 585

      Strawberries 586

      Melons 590

      Oranges 593

      Growing and Selling Oranges 600

      A Who’s Who of Oranges 602

      Grapefruit 602

      Figs 603

      The Symbolism of Figs and The Fig Tree 607

      Dates 607

      Pineapples 609

      Bananas 610

      Avocados 612

      22 The Evolution of Vegetables 620

      Cabbages 622

      Cauliflowers 625

      Salad 626

      Chicory and Endive 629

      Watercress 630

      Asparagus 631

      Growing Asparagus 633

      Artichokes 636

      Tomatoes 637

      23 The Potato Revolution 641

      Sweet Chestnuts 645

      Potatoes 646

      Soufflé Potatoes 653

      Part IX: Science and Conscience in the Diet 659
      The Hows and Whys of Quality

      24 Preserving by Heat 662

      Canned Sardines 668

      The Technique of Canning 670

      Food Preservation 671

      Pasteurized Milk 673

      25 Preserving by Cold 675

      Quick-Freezing 677

      26 The Reassurance of Dietetics 680

      Vitamins 683

      Chronology of Dietary Progress 684

      27 A Reassuring Future 690

      Notes 706

      Select Bibliography of Recent English-Language Works 723

      Bibliography to Original Edition 729

      Index 733

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