Description
Book SynopsisSustainability has come to the fore in the cosmetics and personal care industry. Rising ethical consumerism and the need for resource efficiency are making cosmetic companies small, independent firms to global giants take steps towards sustainable development.
Trade Review“Amarjit Sahota’s book is a well-researched and comprehensive snapshot on the different facets of sustainability in cosmetics today. This is the first, and currently, the only book on this hot topic; it’s a must read.” (Chemistry & Industry, 14 July 2014)
“This publication from Wiley collects a wide number of articles focusing on sustainability in cosmetics, 14 chapters, which represents a road map in this so sensitive issue. The authors are key experts from organizations involved in sustainability in the cosmetics industry issue with a relevant long experience.” (H & PC Today, March/April 2014)
Table of ContentsAbout the Contributors xv
Foreword xxiii
Preface xxvii
1 Introduction to Sustainability 1
Amarjit Sahota
1.1 Introduction to Book 1
1.2 Introduction to Sustainability 2
1.3 Ethics in the Cosmetics Industry 3
1.4 Drivers of Sustainability 6
1.4.1 Rise in Ethical Consumerism 7
1.4.2 Pressure from the Media and NGOs 7
1.4.3 Environmental Changes and Finite Resources 8
1.4.4 Pressure from the Supply Chain 9
1.4.5 Laws and Regulation 9
1.4.6 Business Benefits 10
1.5 Sustainability Reporting 10
1.5.1 CSR and Sustainability Reports 10
1.5.2 Communicating to Consumers 11
1.6 Guide to Book Chapters 12
References 15
2 Environmental Impacts of Cosmetic Products 17
Part 1: The Growing Importance of Metrics 17
Xavier Vital
2.1.1 Corporate Carbon Footprinting 18
2.1.2 Ecodesign 25
2.1.3 Get Ready for the Future 27
2.1.4 Conclusions 30
Acknowledgement 31
References 31
Part 2: Innovating to Reduce the Environmental Footprint, the L’Oreal Example 31
Jean-Florent Campion, Rachel Barre, and Laurent Gilbert
2.2.1 Introduction 31
2.2.2 Product Eco-Design 32
2.2.3 Responsible Sourcing and Biodiversity Preservation 35
2.2.4 Responsible Production 38
2.2.5 Reference Actions – Some Examples of Key Achievements 40
2.2.6 Conclusion 46
Acknowledgements 46
References 46
3 The Social Footprint of a Beauty Company 47
Bas Schneiders
3.1 The Relationship between Cosmetics and Sustainability 47
3.2 The Growing Significance of Sustainability 48
3.2.1 Current Situation 48
3.2.2 Solution Strategies 49
3.3 Sustainability as a Social Challenge for Cosmetics Companies 50
3.3.1 Social Footprinting 50
3.3.2 Critical Areas with Social Impacts 50
3.3.3 Social Diversity and Differentiation 52
3.4 Case Study: Weleda: A Value-Oriented Business 53
3.4.1 Ethical Sourcing 55
3.4.2 Employee Policy 62
3.4.3 Corporate Philanthropy 65
3.4.4 Economic Sustainability and Value Creation 66
3.5 Conclusions 68
Recommended Reading 68
References 68
4 Ethical Sourcing of Raw Materials 69
Part 1: Ethical Sourcing – The Givaudan Approach 69
Remi Pulverail
4.1.1 The Business Case for Ethical Sourcing 69
4.1.2 Making Ethical Sourcing a Reality 70
4.1.3 Working with Customers 71
4.1.4 Building Supplier Partnerships 72
4.1.5 Securing the Future of Benzoin in Laos 72
4.1.6 Tracing the Origins of Ethical Vanilla in Madagascar 74
4.1.7 Moh´eli Partnership Rediscovers Ylang Ylang 76
4.1.8 Equipment Loans Support Sustainable Sandalwood Production 77
4.1.9 Protecting Biodiversity and Tonka Bean Supply in Venezuela 79
4.1.10 Is Natural Sustainable? 80
4.1.11 Conclusion 80
Part 2: Innovation and Ethical Sourcing – Beraca’s Experience 81
Filipe Tomazelli Sabara
4.2.1 Introduction 81
4.2.2 Challenges Related to Ethical Sourcing 82
4.2.3 Beraca and the Biodiversity Enhancement Programme 83
4.2.4 Working in Partnership with Local Communities 85
4.2.5 Success Stories 89
4.2.6 What is Yet to be Achieved 93
4.2.7 Conclusion 94
References 95
5 Biodiversity in the Cosmetics Industry 97
Eduardo Escobedo and Rik Kutsch Lojenga
5.1 Introduction 97
5.1.1 The Critical Loss of Biodiversity and Its Impact on the Cosmetics Industry 99
5.2 Why Should the Cosmetics Industry Care about Protecting Biodiversity? 100
5.2.1 Biodiversity as a Sound Business Strategy 101
5.2.2 Ecosystem Services 102
5.3 How is the Policy Arena Changing and What Implications Does This Have for the Industry? 103
5.3.1 The Convention on Biological Diversity 103
5.3.2 The Strategic Plan for Biodiversity 104
5.3.3 The Nagoya Protocol 106
5.3.4 The Convention on International Trade of Endangered Species of Wild Flora and Fauna (CITES) 107
5.4 Biodiversity Barometer: Consumer Views and Expectations on Biodiversity 109
5.4.1 Biodiversity Awareness is Growing 110
5.4.2 Increased Awareness Brings Greater Expectations 111
5.4.3 Opportunities for Pioneering Companies 111
5.5 Ethical Sourcing in Practice 114
5.5.1 Putting Ethical Sourcing of Biodiversity into Practice 114
5.5.2 Conservation of Biodiversity 116
5.5.3 Sustainable Use of Biodiversity 118
5.5.4 Fair and Equitable Benefit Sharing 120
5.6 Conclusions 124
References 125
6 Sustainable Packaging 127
Part 1: Introduction 127
Amarjit Sahota
References 129
Part 2: Sustainable Packaging for Cosmetic Products – Using Biobased Carbon Content and Designing for End-of-Life 129
Ramani Narayan
6.2.1 Introduction 129
6.2.2 Carbon Footprint Value Proposition 130
6.2.3 Material Carbon Versus Process Carbon Footprint 131
6.2.4 Exemplars of Zero Material Carbon Footprint Resins 132
6.2.5 Measuring Biobased Carbon Content 134
6.2.6 End-of-Life for the Packaging – Recycling and Biodegradable-Compostability 135
6.2.7 Science of Biodegradability 136
6.2.8 Summary 138
References 139
Part 3: The Role of Design for Sustainable Packaging 139
Anne van Haeften
6.3.1 Introduction 139
6.3.2 The Design Agency 140
6.3.3 Packaging Design 141
6.3.4 The Brand 142
6.3.5 Innovation and Design 144
6.3.6 Graphical Component 144
6.3.7 Post-Use Packaging 145
6.3.8 Lush Case Study: Get Naked! 145
6.3.9 Conclusion 147
References 148
Part 4: Sustainable Packaging – Aveda Case Study 148
John A. Delfausse
6.4.1 A Commitment to the Environment – the Aveda Mission 148
6.4.2 Direction from the Top 148
6.4.3 A Great Beginning 149
6.4.4 Real Sustainability 153
7 Energy and Waste Management 155
Charles J. ‘Chuck’ Bennett and Michael S. Brown
7.1 Introduction to Energy and Waste Management in the Cosmetics Industry 155
7.1.1 Global Resource Constraints and the Challenge for Business 155
7.1.2 Energy Issues and the Cosmetics Industry 156
7.1.3 Wastes and Personal Care Products 158
7.2 Aveda – the Company 159
7.3 Energy Management in Aveda 161
7.3.1 Process Energy Opportunities 162
7.3.2 Facility Energy Improvements 162
7.3.3 Results and Current Situation 163
7.3.4 Renewable Energy and Emissions Offsets 164
7.3.5 Other Dimensions of Aveda’s Energy Management – Shipping and Product Use 166
7.4 Waste Management at Aveda 167
7.4.1 Waste Management in Operations 167
7.4.2 Recycling beyond Blaine 169
7.4.3 Products and Packaging 169
7.5 Summary 173
References 173
8 Corporate Social Responsibility and Philanthropy 175
Part 1: Introduction 175
Amarjit Sahota
8.1.1 Corporate Social Responsibility 175
8.1.2 Corporate Philanthropy 176
References 178
Part 2: BURT’S BEES® Case Study 178
Paula Alexander
8.2.1 Value-Driven Sustainability Leadership 180
8.2.2 The Greater Good Business Model: An Integrated Approach to Sustainability 181
8.2.3 Strategic Giving 184
8.2.4 Employee Engagement 186
8.2.5 Summary 188
References 188
Part 3: Dr. Bronner’s Magic Soaps: Business as Activism 189
David Bronner
8.3.1 Introduction 189
8.3.2 Company Background 189
8.3.3 Fair Trade Projects 191
8.3.4 Corporate Activism 194
8.3.5 Summary 195
9 Green Formulations and Ingredients 197
Judi Beerling
9.1 Introduction 197
9.2 Definitions 198
9.2.1 Synthetic Ingredient 198
9.2.2 Natural Ingredient 198
9.2.3 Naturally Derived Ingredient 199
9.2.4 Nature Identical Ingredient 199
9.2.5 Organic 199
9.3 How Natural are Current Market Products? 200
9.4 Synthetic Ingredients Normally Absent from Natural/Organic Cosmetics 202
9.5 Available Green Replacements for Synthetic Cosmetic Ingredients 204
9.6 Formulation Issues with Green Ingredients 214
9.7 Summary 214
References 215
10 Green Standards, Certification and Indices 217
Judi Beerling and Amarjit Sahota
10.1 Introduction 217
10.2 Natural and Organic Cosmetic Standards 218
10.2.1 Major European Standards for Natural and Organic Products 219
10.2.2 BDIH (Germany) 219
10.2.3 Ecocert Greenlife (France) 220
10.2.4 CosmeBio (France) 221
10.2.5 Soil Association (UK) 221
10.2.6 ICEA (Italy) 222
10.2.7 COSMOS 222
10.2.8 Natrue (Belgium) 224
10.2.9 Other European Standards 225
10.2.10 Major North American Standards 225
10.2.11 USDA/NOP 226
10.2.12 NSF International 226
10.2.13 NPA (Natural Products Association) 227
10.2.14 Standards in Other Regions 228
10.2.15 Comparison of the Key Requirements of the Ecocert Greenlife, COSMOS and Natrue Standards 229
10.3 Fair Trade Labels 229
10.4 Other Eco-Labels 231
10.4.1 Eco Flower – The European Eco-Label 231
10.4.2 Nordic Swan – The Nordic Ecolabel 232
10.4.3 Others in Europe 232
10.4.4 Green Seal USA 232
10.4.5 USDA Biobased Product Certification 233
10.4.6 Carbon Labels 233
10.5 Other Sustainability Standards and Indices 234
10.5.1 ISO Standards 14000 and 26000 234
10.5.2 SA8000 235
10.5.3 Other Standards 236
10.5.4 Sustainable Indexes 236
References 237
11 Understanding Green Marketing 239
Darrin C. Duber-Smith and Mason W. Rubin
11.1 The “Why” of Sustainability 240
11.2 The Green Consumer 242
11.3 Best Green Practices 244
11.4 Communication versus Reality: The Many Shades of Green 245
11.4.1 Red Marketer 245
11.4.2 Green Panderer 247
11.4.3 Green Buffeteer 248
11.4.4 Light Green Marketer 249
11.4.5 Natural Green Marketer 250
11.4.6 Deep Green Marketer 251
11.5 Greener Than Thou 252
References 253
12 Marketing Case Studies 255
Part 1: Yes ToTM Inc. 255
Ido Leffler
12.1.1 The Background 255
12.1.2 The Growth Path 256
12.1.3 Marketing Strategy 259
12.1.4 Product Positioning 262
12.1.5 Distribution Growth and Brand Extensions 263
12.1.6 Future Plans 264
Part 2: Korres Natural Products 265
12.2.1 George Korres From Herbal Remedies to Natural Products 265
12.2.2 The Challenge 267
12.2.3 Vision and Strategy 268
12.2.4 Target Audience 270
12.2.5 The Portfolio at a Glance 270
12.2.6 Marketing and Positioning 271
12.2.7 Beauty Made Honest 272
12.2.8 Sustainability 273
12.2.9 Global Presence 274
12.2.10 A Closer Look 276
12.2.11 A Success Case Study Starring . . . the Product 277
12.2.12 The Future 277
Part 3: Whole Foods Market 278
Jody Villecco
12.3.1 Introduction 278
12.3.2 Body Care Quality Standards 279
12.3.3 Whole Body Responsible Packaging 285
12.3.4 Organic Body Care Labeling Standards 286
12.3.5 Industry Recognition 287
12.3.6 Conclusion 287
References 288
13 Targeting the Green Consumer 289
Kathy Sheehan
13.1 Introduction 289
13.2 United States 292
13.3 Western Europe 295
13.4 China 296
13.5 Latin America 298
13.6 Conclusions 300
14 Future Outlook 301
Amarjit Sahota
14.1 Preamble 301
14.2 Sustainability 301
14.3 Social Dimensions 303
14.4 Green Cosmetics 305
14.5 Responsible Consumption 308
14.6 Role of Government and Legislation 310
14.7 Benchmarking of Cosmetic Companies 311
14.8 Conclusions 312
References 314
Index
