Description
Book SynopsisThe first English-language compilation of research on Japanese cooking and food culture
Trade Review"An excellent resource. . . . An exciting addition to a growing collection of English-language literature on the foodways of Japan."--
Journal of Folklore Research"Significantly advances our knowledge of the history of Japanese food."--
Gastronomica "This volume makes an important contribution to a growing field of study."--
Monumenta Nipponica"Required reading for anyone interested in Japanese history, food, and foodways. I couldn't put this book down!"--Samuel Hideo Yamashita, author of
Leaves from an Autumn of Emergencies: Selections from the Wartime Diaries of Ordinary Japanese"A pathbreaking volume on Japanese culinary history with great depth and scope."--Merry Isaacs White, author of
Perfectly Japanese: Making Families in an Era of Upheaval"Provides an eye-opening view of the influence that other countries had on Japanese food culture, and how Japan was never an island unto itself."--
Choice"A welcome addition to the growing body of scholarly literature on Japanese food and foodways."--
Southeast Review of Asian StudiesTable of ContentsLIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS vii
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS ix
INTRODUCTION 1
Eric C. Rath and Stephanie AssmannPART 1 Early Modern Japan 1
Honzen Dining: The Poetry of Formal Meals in Late Medieval and Early Modern Japan 19
ERIC C. RATH
2 "How to Eat the Ten Thousand Things": Table Manners in the Edo Period 42
MICHAEL KINSKI
3. "Stones for the Belly":
Kaiseki Cuisine for Tea during the Early Edo Period 68
GARY SOKA CADWALLADER AND JOSEPH R. JUSTICE
4 Meat-eating in the Kojimachi District of Edo 92
AKIRA SHIMIZU
5 Wine-drinking Culture in Seventeeth-century Japan: The Role of Dutch Merchants 108
JOJI NOZAWA
PART II Modern Japan 6 The History of Domestic Cookbooks in Modern Japan 129
SHOKO HIGASHIYOTSU YANAGI
7 Imperial Cuisines in Taisho Foodways 145
BARAK KUSHNER
8 Beyond HUnger: Grocery Shopping, Cooking, and Eating in 1940s Japan 166
KATARZYNA CWIERTKA AND MIHO YASUHARA
9 Ramen and U.S. Occupation Policy 186
GEORGE SOLT
10 Bento: Boxed Love, Eaten by the Eye 201
TOMOKO ONABE
PART III Contemporary Japan 11 Mountain Vegetables and the Politics of Local Flavor in Japan 221
BRIDGET LOVE
12 Reinventing Culinary Heritage in Northern Japan: Slow Food and Traditional Vegetables 243
STEPHANIE ASSMANN
13 Ramen Connoisseurs: Class, Gender, and the Internet 257
SATOMI FUKUTOMI
14 Irretrievably in Love with Japanese Cuisine 275
DAVID E. WELLS
CONTRIBUTORS 285
INDEX 289
List of Illustrations 1 A three-tray
honezen meal from
Ryori kondateshu 22 2 Snipe in (eggplant) jars from
Shichi no zen jukyu kon no maki 32
3 A supervisory housewife and a servant from
Shiroto ryori nenju sozai no shikata zen 135
4 An old housewife and two servants from
Sozai ryori no okeiko 137
5 A young housewife in a kitchen from
Katei yoshoku ryoriho 139
6 A housewife and maid discussing kitchen tasks from
Renovating Kitchens 151
7 Members of a neighborhood farm group preparing steamed buns 222
8 Local female farmers work part-time at company headquarters 230
9 A female farmers' group from Yuda's Makino district 232
10 The three basic types of Japanese knives 276
11 Cutting a carrot into a plum blossom 277
12 Peeling daikon 278
13 Tempura 283
