Description
Book SynopsisA fascinating and approachable deep dive into the colonial roots of the global wine industry. Imperial Wine is a bold, rigorous history of Britain's surprising role in creating the wine industries of Australia, South Africa, and New Zealand. Here, historian Jennifer Regan-Lefebvre bridges the genres of global commodity history and imperial history, presenting provocative new research in an accessible narrative. This is the first book to argue that today's global wine industry exists as a result of settler colonialism and that imperialism was central, not incidental, to viticulture in the British colonies. Wineries were established almost immediately after the colonization of South Africa, Australia, and New Zealand as part of a civilizing mission: tidy vines, heavy with fruit, were symbolic of Britain's subordination of foreign lands. Economically and culturally, nineteenth-century settler winemakers saw the British market as paramount. However, British drinkers were apathetic towards what they pejoratively called colonial wine. The tables only began to turn after the First World War, when colonial wines were marketed as cheap and patriotic and started to find their niche among middle- and working-class British drinkers. This trend, combined with social and cultural shifts after the Second World War, laid the foundation for the New World revolution in the 1980s, making Britain into a confirmed country of wine-drinkers and a massive market for New World wines. These New World producers may have only received critical acclaim in the late twentieth century, but Imperial Wine shows that they had spent centuries wooing, and indeed manufacturing, a British market for inexpensive colonial wines. This book is sure to satisfy any curious reader who savors the complex stories behind this commodity chain.
Trade Review"Historical insights and sharp commentary. A must-read for students of wine history."
* Australian Financial Review *
"Imperial Wine teaches wine enthusiasts about the role of empire in shaping the wine world of the past, present, and probably the future, too. And it teaches students of imperialism that the influence of those forces continues even in something as seemingly simple as a glass of wine. Interesting. Well-written. Thought-provoking. I learned a lot."
* Wine Economist *
"Really fascinating . . . . Very accessible to the average reader who has any interest at all in the history of wine. Most important, however, is I think the author has contributed an original idea or at least fully fleshed out an idea concerning the significance and utility of the 'Old World' / 'New World' structure that has for so long now played a key role in discussions of wine history and the world wine marketplace." * Fermentation newsletter *
"As with any good history, Regan-Lefebvre’s book sparks more questions than it answers. . . . This is, however, not a shortcoming of the book but a strong point: like a glass of rich red wine, the topic of wine in the British Empire certainly has legs. These legs— and the ideas propounded in this book—will provide fertile ground for future discussion and scholarship in the years to come." * Gastronomica *
"It's a brilliant book from start to finish. Academic rigour and discipline structures every page. The weight of detail is formidable. The subject is uncomfortable, even ugly. But Regan-Lefebvre has a gift – she knows how to curlicue dry facts just enough to make them intriguing without losing their accuracy. She’s delivered all this in what amounts to a cracking read. It is a fascinating book. A page-turner, even!" * JancisRobinson.com *
"A novel approach. . . .
Imperial Wine is the vinous equivalent of a rags-to-riches story. Based on an impressive amount of research, it springs the occasional surprise." * TLS *
"Shows how the modern consumer’s choice of an alcoholic beverage rested on centuries of canny merchant schemes, land grabs, and exploitation of Indigenous peoples. . . . This book clearly proves that good commercial wine is one of the ways that the system convinces players that the game is worth playing." * Journal of Interdisciplinary History *
"Informed readers will appreciate its extensive coverage and writing style, in which lively and uncomplicated prose is enlivened with numerous wry asides. . . . It tells a compelling story of how wines from the former Empire came to win over British palates, and capture a major share of the global market. It is the first book that succeeds in explaining how this unfolded over the course of more than two centuries." * Journal of Wine Economics *
"
Imperial Wine… [offers] a master class in historical storytelling. Carving out a space between academia and popular historical writing, it offers a compelling critique of the global forces underpinning the production, consumption, and circulation of wine across the British Empire." * Social History of Alcohol and Drugs *
Table of ContentsContents
List of Illustrations
Acknowledgments
Introduction
PART ONE. ORIGINS, C. 1650–1830
1 • Writing about Wine
2 • Why Britain?
3 • Dutch Courage: The First Wine at the Cape
4 • First Fleet, First Flight: Creating Australian Vineyards
5 • Astonished to See the Fruit: New Zealand’s First Grapes
PART TWO. GROWTH, C. 1830–1910
6 • Cheap and Wholesome: Cape Producers and British Tariffs
7 • Echunga Hock: Colonial Wines of the Nineteenth Century
8 • Have You Any Colonial Wine? Australian Producers and British Tariffs
9 • Planting and Pruning: Working the Colonial Vineyard
10 • Sulphur! Sulphur!! Sulphur!!! Phylloxera and Other Pests
11 • Served Chilled: British Consumers in the Victorian Era
12 • From Melbourne to Madras: Wine in India, Cyprus, Malta, and Canada
PART THREE. MARKET, C. 1910–1950
13 • Plonk! Colonial Wine and the First World War
14 • Fortification: The Dominions and the Interwar Period
15 • Crude Potions: The British Market for Empire Wines
16 • Doodle Bugs Destroyed Our Cellar: Wine in the Second World War
PART FOUR. CONQUEST, C. 1950–2020
17 • And a Glass of Wine: Colonial Wines in the Postwar Society
18 • Good Fighting Wine: Colonial Wines Battle Back
19 • All Bar One: The New World Conquers the British Market
Conclusion
Appendix: Notes about Measurements
Notes
Bibliography
Index
