Description
Book Synopsis Fit and Sew Custom Jeans is unique in that it addresses both the order of construction and fit simultaneously. Other books gloss over the fitting, having you guess your adjustments in the flat pattern stage. By the time you try on the jeans, it may be too late to fix areas with poor fit. If you could, you'd need to rip a lot of topstitching, a real chore. Helen uses a combination of tissue-fitting and fabric fitting. This means not using a typical ready-to-wear sewing order. See the chart on what size to choose based on the type of fabric you have. Fill out the Jeans Profile so you consider how fitted you want the jeans for how they will be worn. Prepare the tissue for trying on to determine rise, width, length, and crotch shape. Learn how to gauge how much smaller the pattern can be in width based on a stretch of the denim. There are many ways to do a fly front, but which is best for incorporating fit? This is why the author tested many different techniques using her order to see which worked best. She sewed a total of 31 pair of jeans for herself and others so make sure she was truly giving the best solutions for fit.
Trade Review"I have worked with Helen Bartley for many years. By assisting at our hands-on workshops she has developed the skills needed to be a fit expert. She is now the lead instructor in our Portland, OR workshop location. I love her attention to details. Everything needs to be first class and professional whether it is the venue in which she teaches, her sewing, the samples she presents to student, or her beautifully done instructional digital slide presentations. Students love her you can do it attitude. She is also very innovative. She has always loved making jeans and while writing this book she has taken sewing jeans to a level not seen in the past." -- Pati Palmer, CEO Palmer/Pletsch
Table of ContentsCONTENTS
About the author..........................................................6
Foreword by Pati Palmer...............................................7
CHAPTER 1.................................................................8
Why Sew Jeans? A Bit of History
CHAPTER 2 .......................................................10
Tools • Sewing Machines & Sergers • Tools for Pressing, Cutting, Marking, Tissue-Fitting Alterations, Hardware Setting
CHAPTER 3...............................................................16
Materials • Denim Basics • Hardware, Needles, Thread, Interfacing, Zippers
CHAPTER 4.......................................................23
Patterns, Fit & Alterations • Personal Jeans Profile • Jeans Patterns and Sizing • Our Jeans-Making Order Includes Fit • Understanding Ease • Crotch Length and Crotch Depth • Tissue-Fitting—Why Tissue-Fit? | Choosing Your Best Pattern Size | Denim Wrap Test | Preparing Your Pattern for Tissue-Fitting | The Tissue-Fitting Order | Pattern Tissue Alterations | Fabric-Fitting Alterations
CHAPTER 5.......................................................62
Real People Fitting Jeans • Learning fit by examining different bodies • Ava | Ali | Pati | Helen | Julie | Greg | Taylor | Jeff
CHAPTER 6.....................................................108
Before You Sew • Good Sewing Hygiene • Fabric Prep • Prepare the Altered Pattern for Cutting, Making 1” Seams • Layout & Cutting • Transfer Pattern Markings • Seams, Topstitching, Bartacks, Buttonholes
CHAPTER 7.....................................................124
Constructing Jeans • Snap-View Construction Order • Step-By-Step Jeans Construction Quick Stitch Length Guide | Interfacing | Efficiency Serging | Belt Loops Prep | Back & Coin Pockets | Front Pockets | Fly Front Zipper| Baste & Fabric Fit | Fabric-Fitting Order | Yokes | Back Pockets | Inseams | Crotch Seam | Side Seams | Belt Loop Placement | Waistband | Attaching Belt loops | BarTacks | Buttonhole | Hem | Setting Hardware
CHAPTER 8.....................................................158
Design Mods • Legs — Articulated Knee | Seam Design Ideas • Pockets — Pocket Bag Variations | Topstitched Trouser Pocket | Coin Pockets | Back Pocket Variations | Topstitched Welt Pocket | Tulip Pocket | Darted Cargo Pocket • Front Closures — Hidden Button Fly | Exposed Button Fly | Mock Fly for Pull-On Jeans • Waistbands — Full Elastic • Hems & the Bottom Line — Raw Edge | Fringed Raw Edge | Tulip Hem | Exposed Ankle Zipper | Slits
CHAPTER 9.....................................................230
Care & Feeding of Jeans
CHAPTER 10............................................... 232
Templates • Fly Topstitching | Topstitched Welt Pocket | Darted Cargo Pocket | Tulip Pocket Resources and Metric Conversion Chart....................235
Index.......................................................................236
Other Palmer/Pletsch Products..................................238
CONTENTS
REVIEWS,
