Description
Book SynopsisPaul Jobling is Researcher in Arts and Architecture, University of Brighton, UK. He is the author of
Man Appeal (Berg, 2005).
Trade ReviewFascinating as a study of changing attitudes and technologies over the second half of the 20th century ... The attempts of menswear advertisers to anticipate, respond to, and initiate changes from a postwar setting of mainly static images and relatively static mores to the unimaginably transformed, contemporary technologies and standards is chronicled in a straightforward and entertaining way ... The book deserves a broad audience. * CHOICE *
Rooted in archival research and through rich illustrations and extensive appendices, Jobling has given us yet another piece of quality scholarship. This text will appeal to researchers interested in the representation of clothing and fashion, masculinities and ‘Britishness’, and to scholars of dress and fashion history, media culture, modern British history and transatlantic culture more generally. -- Mario J. Roman, London College of Fashion * Costume *
Based on a detailed study of rich archival material, this pioneering study examines the production, circulation and consumption of print, television and cinema publicity for men's clothing in Britain during the second half of the twentieth century. * Costume Society of America *
This book provides a well-structured analysis of advertising menswear in Britain, gauging the dynamics of war, class, race, gender, age and textile science that transformed the communication medium. A compilation of striking imagery, visual analysis, compelling discourse and chronology establishes this scholarship as a decisive resource informing the methodology of past and contemporary global menswear brands. -- Alphonso McClendon, Drexel University, USA
Paul Jobling’s
Advertising Menswear is that rare study that is able to combine distinctive close reading of individual cultural texts with expansive and thickly documented historical reconstruction. Truly remarkable in its reach and sensitivity, this book should stand as a model for measured inquiry at the intersection of masculinity and material culture. -- James Hall, Rochester Institute of Technology, USA
Table of ContentsINTRODUCTION PART ONE Going for a Burton: menswear advertising from austerity to affluence, 1945-1957 Introduction 1.0: The post-war market for men’s clothing 2.0: Menswear advertising: agents, accounts and audiences: ‘Will it be seen? Will it be remembered?’ Will it be “accepted”?’ 3.0: The economics of press advertising 4.0: The design and rhetoric of menswear press advertisements 5.0: The art versus commerce debate 6.0: Poster publicity and menswear 7.0: Early commercial television and menswear, 1955-1960 8.0: The impact of consumer psychology and motivation research 9.0: ‘Feeling with’ and ‘feeling into’: appealing to men and women 10.0: The turn to new consumers and youth culture PART TWO Thinking young: menswear advertising and the generation games, 1958-1978 Introduction 1.0: Sedimenting the youth market 2.0: Cinema and television advertising 3.0: Menswear advertising in newspapers and magazines 4.0: Poster publicity and menswear 5.0: ‘You bring the body, we’ve got the clothes’: publicity for tailors 6.0: From dummies to dandies 7.0: Ironing out the creases: artificial fibres and menswear advertising 8.0: Synthesising sex: the utopian and ludic valorization of artificial and natural fibres 9.0: ‘Cloth for Men’: wool and he whisper of darker things 10.0: Looking good, feeling good 11.0: The changing of the guard PART THREE Leader of the pack: jeans advertising since the 1960s Introduction 1.0: The Jeans market and advertising between 1950-1985 2.0: Levi’s 501: back to the future 3.0: Here comes the new man – again 4.0: A soundtrack for consumerism: music, image and myth 5.0: More than just a number 6.0: Racial sameness and racial difference 7.0: From ‘Mothers’ to ‘Flat Eric’ EPILOGUE Getting the Right Fit – Objects/Images/Readers Bibliography Index
