{"product_id":"fashion-criticism-9781350058804","title":"Fashion Criticism","description":"\u003cb\u003eBook Synopsis\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003eThis is the first anthology of fashion criticism, a growing field that has been too long overlooked. \u003ci\u003eFashion Criticism\u003c\/i\u003e aims to redress the balance, claiming a place for writing on fashion alongside other more well-established areas of criticism.Exploring the history of fashion criticism in the English language, this essential work takes readers from the writing published in avant-garde modernist magazines at the beginning of the twentieth century to the fashion criticism of Robin Givhanthe first fashion critic to win a Pulitzer Prizeand of Judith Thurman, a National Book Award winner. It covers the shift in newspapers from the so-called women's pages to the contemporary style sections, while unearthing the work of cultural critics and writers on fashion including Susan Sontag and Eve Babitz (\u003ci\u003eVogue\u003c\/i\u003e), Bebe Moore Campbell (\u003ci\u003eEbony\u003c\/i\u003e), Angela Carter (\u003ci\u003eNew Statesman\u003c\/i\u003e) and Hilton Als (\u003ci\u003eNew Yorker)\u003c\/i\u003e.Examining the gender dynamics of the field and its historical assoc\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eTrade Review\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003eSeven billion humans on the planet clothe or adorn themselves every day. Yet the subject of dress – it’s language; its influence on the way we express our identities, desires, allegiances, aspirations and (in many cases, our servitude) – has rarely been considered worthy of serious inquiry. This essential anthology of essays on fashion corrects that oversight ... and it does so with exceptional verve and intelligence. * Judith Thurman, The New Yorker *\u003cbr\u003eFrom Oscar Wilde’s musing on corsets to Connie Wang’s discussion of Wokeness, this dazzling compendium of critical fashion writing—with a sweep of over one hundred years—is as fun to read as it is intellectually provocative. * Lynn Yaeger, Vogue, US *\u003cbr\u003e[\u003ci\u003eFashion Criticism: An Anthology\u003c\/i\u003e] represents a step forward to considering fashion criticism a respected discipline alongside cultural criticism. Moreover, it can be a very useful resource for those who wish to deepen their knowledge on the subject, and it might even help them develop their own critical skills for fashion writing. Eventually, this anthology demonstrates how politics, gender, race, and other socio cultural issues are extremely interconnected with the matters of dress. Fashion criticism can be another way of examining those contexts and enrich the conversation with new, stimulating perspectives. * The Journal of Dress History *\u003cbr\u003eReprints of lesser-known essays (Campbell’s “What Happened to the Afro?”), plus essays that use a variety of approaches, from glamorous description (Long’s “Feminine Fashions”), to social theory (Sontag’s “Looking with Avedon”), make this a solid primer on cultural criticism and fashion journalism. * Library Journal *\u003cbr\u003eA welcome anthology of fashion criticism establishing that writing about fashion can be as influential as designing it. Ranging across late nineteenth century gazettes, twentieth century newspapers and twenty-first century posts, it’s a key reference work for reading about how fashion measures up. * Alistair O’Neill, Central Saint Martins, London, UK *\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eTable of Contents\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003eAcknowledgments viii Introduction 1  \u003cb\u003ePART I Late Nineteenth Century–1960s\u003c\/b\u003e  Introduction to PART I 13  1 Mr. Oscar Wilde on Woman’s Dress \u003ci\u003eOscar Wilde\u003c\/i\u003e 17 2 Literary and Other Notes (excerpt) \u003ci\u003eOscar Wilde\u003c\/i\u003e 19 3 Philosophic Fashions: Who Fell Asleep on the King’s Highway? \u003ci\u003eDame \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eRogue [Louise Norton]\u003c\/i\u003e 23 4 Philosophic Fashions: Trouser-Talk (excerpt) \u003ci\u003eDame Rogue [Louise \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eNorton]\u003c\/i\u003e 27 5 Philosophic Fashions: The Importance of Being Dressed \u003ci\u003eDame Rogue \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e[Louise Norton]\u003c\/i\u003e 31 6 Feminine Fashions \u003ci\u003eLois Long\u003c\/i\u003e 35 7 Feminine Fashions \u003ci\u003eLois Long\u003c\/i\u003e 37 8 Copying a Fancy Name \u003ci\u003eElizabeth Hawes\u003c\/i\u003e 39 9 News … News … News …\u003ci\u003e Elizabeth Hawes\u003c\/i\u003e 45 10 Fashions from Paris: A Suit Story at Balenciaga \u003ci\u003eEugenia Sheppard\u003c\/i\u003e 51 11 A Mini for Men? Eugenia Sheppard 53 12 A Campaign Issue—Clothes? \u003ci\u003eEleni Epstein\u003c\/i\u003e 55 13 Candidates in a Tie on Fashion’s Slate\u003ci\u003e Eleni Epstein\u003c\/i\u003e 57  \u003cb\u003ePART II 1970s–1990s\u003c\/b\u003e  Introduction to PART II 61  14 The Wound in the Face \u003ci\u003eAngela Carter\u003c\/i\u003e 65 15 Feminine Fashions: The Fall Collections II \u003ci\u003eKennedy Fraser\u003c\/i\u003e 69 16 Looking with Avedon \u003ci\u003eSusan Sontag\u003c\/i\u003e 77 17 What Happened to the Afro?\u003ci\u003e Bebe Moore Campbell\u003c\/i\u003e 81 18 Ralph Lauren’s Achievement \u003ci\u003eHolly Brubach\u003c\/i\u003e 87 19 In Fashion: Modernism Outmoded \u003ci\u003eHolly Brubach\u003c\/i\u003e 95 20 Haute Coiffure de Gel \u003ci\u003eElizabeth Wilson\u003c\/i\u003e 103 21 Hippie Heaven \u003ci\u003eEve Babitz \u003c\/i\u003e107 22 Calvinism Unclothed \u003ci\u003eValerie Steele\u003c\/i\u003e 113 23 Coming Apart \u003ci\u003eAmy Spindler\u003c\/i\u003e 119 24 The Once and Future Suit \u003ci\u003eAnne Hollander\u003c\/i\u003e 125 25 Sexualities \u003ci\u003eAnne Hollander\u003c\/i\u003e 129 26 The Eastern Bloc \u003ci\u003eLynn Yaeger\u003c\/i\u003e 133 27 Avant Guardians \u003ci\u003eLynn Yaeger\u003c\/i\u003e 137 28 The Only One \u003ci\u003eHilton Als\u003c\/i\u003e 139 29 Buying the Fantasy \u003ci\u003eHilton Als\u003c\/i\u003e 147 30 Fashion’s Military Fascination: Unsettling, Romantic Esthetic \u003ci\u003eSuzy \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eMenkes\u003c\/i\u003e 151  \u003cb\u003ePART III Twenty-first Century\u003c\/b\u003e  Introduction to PART III 155  31 Future, Take Note: Raf Simons Was Here \u003ci\u003eCathy Horyn\u003c\/i\u003e 159 32 Hussein Chalayan: Nostalgia for the Future \u003ci\u003eCaroline Evans\u003c\/i\u003e 163 33 The Misfit \u003ci\u003eJudith Thurman\u003c\/i\u003e 169 34 Dressed to Thrill: Alexander McQueen at the Met \u003ci\u003eJudith Thurman\u003c\/i\u003e 179 35 Why I Hate Abercrombie \u0026amp; Fitch (Excerpt) \u003ci\u003eDwight A. McBride\u003c\/i\u003e 183 36 The Mystery Man: Margiela, Be Mine \u003ci\u003eSarah Mower\u003c\/i\u003e 193 37 All Hail the Leader of the Fashionable World \u003ci\u003eRobin Givhan\u003c\/i\u003e 197 38 The Revolution Will Be Branded Vetements \u003ci\u003eAnja Aronowsky \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eCronberg\u003c\/i\u003e 201 39 Will I Get a Ticket? A Conversation about Life after Vogue with Lucinda Chambers \u003ci\u003eAnja Aronowsky Cronberg\u003c\/i\u003e 205 40 Trump vs. the Disappearing Tie \u003ci\u003eVanessa Friedman\u003c\/i\u003e 209 41 Suket Dhir, Men’s Wear Designer, from Delhi to the World \u003ci\u003eGuy Trebay\u003c\/i\u003e 213 42 Melania Trump and the Chilling Artifice of Fashion \u003ci\u003eRhonda Garelick\u003c\/i\u003e 217 43 Is Wokeness in Fashion Just Another Illusion? \u003ci\u003eConnie Wang\u003c\/i\u003e 219  Sources and Acknowledgments 222 Index 225","brand":"Bloomsbury Publishing PLC","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":51039329616215,"sku":"9781350058804","price":24.69,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"url":"https:\/\/bookcurl.com\/products\/fashion-criticism-9781350058804","provider":"Book Curl","version":"1.0","type":"link"}